This is what I've been waiting for - crown on a vaulted ceiling. Can you add a fourth video to answer questions? What adjustments do you make for larger molding (wider than 5 1/2 inch)?
Ron to Ron! You are a master man! Thank you so much! I can follow a really long video despite other's short attention spans. Thanks again! You just opened my eyes! This is what I wish I would have known today and could have shown my boss!!
Ron Paulk I ran some crown today and killed it! My boss was impressed to say the least, but I still need to get an angle finder, because we are doing it the old fashioned way by cutting a small piece 5-10 times until you get what you want. To be honest that's the way I have seen everyone do it in the middle TN area. But thanks to you I think I'll have them all beat!hahaha thanks Ronnie! You're the man!!
How do you transition from a horizontal ceiling to a 45° vaulted ceiling with an outside corner? Other than that, I fully understand what you did. Thanks for the video.
Looking forward to part 2 and 3 then since your first crown series kept me working all last winter!! I was starting to sweat one day being asked to do a room like this. Ive said it a bunch of times in other comment sections but, I will be putting a video together (not the best quality) of the things I have done since my paulk total station build and Paulk crown lesson. Painter gone trim carpenter... I just need to make the time already
Hey Ron! Great video. I’m still having a bit of trouble here. I have a vaulted ceiling exactly like you showed in this video above the fireplace. I saw that you use your protractor to get the plum in the lower corner which turned out to be 18.8. When I went to the bottom corner of the wall, with my protractor for plum, I got a measurement of 111.6-90= 21.6. Is that angle that you’re saying will be what you would cut both of the top pieces at the peak going to be the exact same angle of what I would cut at the bottom corner where I was originally getting the 111.6-90=21.6? I set my saw it’s just short of 22 and it was still off??? I’ve been reduced the angle on the saw to closer to 20 degrees and then it fit almost right on? What am I doing wrong here? ??? I then just got on a much taller ladder and took my digital protractor up to peak and got a reading of 147.6 degrees. I bisected that number, subtracted it from 90 and ended up with 16.2. Why is the angle cut at the actual peak totally different than the lower corner that you got the reading from in your video without having to go up to the peak? Thanks so much for your help.
Thank you for your vaulted ceiling crown molding series videos. Do you have a suggestion on how to cut a crown molding return on a vaulted ceiling? I have a 9 degree slope ( 24" rise on a 14' room) and have used your method. I am coping my inside corners. On the high part of my ceiling, I have an attic access door and will need to dead end return my crown molding on either side of the hatch door. I am concerned that the downward, spring angle of the crown will make me have to shave the top side of the small, pie-shaped return to match the ceiling slope. Not sure how that would look. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I've figured out the solution to my question. The top end of the return is naturally tipped forward bringing the back end up to match the slope of the ceiling. The thing that needs to happen is the small piece that meets the wall. Instead of cutting this at 90 degrees to meet the wall, I need to add 9 degrees to that because I had about a 3/8" gap at the ceiling peak when it was tilted forward.
Ron, thanks for tackling this topic. Where a raked ceiling line meets a level one with the walls meeting in the corner at 90, are both crown pieces installed (as opposed to sawn) at the same spring angle according to your method? If so, do you add a short transition piece between the level one and the raked one? I ask because if you project the respective bottom edge lines of both crown pieces, the bottom of the raked piece lands in the corner below the line of the level piece, due to the extra vertical length of the plumb cut on the raked piece and the fact that the level piece must be raised higher than normally dictated by the spring angle in order for its top edge to contact the sloped ceiling. I have made these joints without adding the transition I mention, (I think it looks cleaner) but only by intentionally adjusting the spring angle of one or the other of these pieces (consistently for each type) so that their bottom edges meet at the same elevation in the corner. If you don't add the transition piece using your method and still get the bottom edges to meet, I look forward to seeing how you do it.
JT - Sorry if my verbiage was unclear. As you no doubt know, it's a lot easier to demonstrate this stuff and/or ask questions about it when you're standing right in front of the actual work.
Ron awesome work. I had a question regarding vaulted crown molding. When running crown on a vaulted ceiling, do you let the wall projection determine the orientation. Meaning when you are running a horizontal run but the ceiling is vaulting up 45 degrees or so and I wanted to know if I should be favoring the bottom of the crown which is on a flat wall and the top is on an angled wall. Hope you understand my question. Thank you.
Put the protractor in the peak. The reading will tell you a degree. You can use a chart that will give you the saw angle and saw tilt. This only works when laying the board flat for a compound miter. He makes it much too difficult. I do these by myself all the time. I will make sure my two ceiling pieces will work. Then I cut them 10 inches long. Then I cut my inside or outside corner pieces 10 inches long. Measure in between and add 20 inches. Simple. Good luck
All these videos say cut same cuts you use on a flat ceiling. Probably works for low pitched vaulted ceiling, becomes significantly different on high pitch ceilings. Not so easy to roll molding off its true spring angle as pitch of ceiling increases.
Doesn't crown on vaulted ceilings only Work up to about 6:12 pitch roofs? You can only roll the crown so far. Plus you have to add a bunch of caulk for the gap you are creating on the bottom of the crown. Or do some weird back cut to remove excess material.
Most of the houses in my neighborhood that have vaulted ceilings (including mine) are 12:12 roofs. So there is no way to do crown unless you add ugly blocks in the corners or add a third piece of crown to connect the two sides
the only solution i have found is to install a corner block or pendant to hide the difference in miter cut length, gary katz has a good article on this.
hi great saying to take every corner as a 90 degree, but our house was built 200 years ago and we live on black soil which moves either way given wet or dry weather. NO corner in this house is at a 90 degree. then we add on the pitched ceiling. yes it is a problem, and my father (a builder ) is no longer with us. Perhaps that is a good thing, we don't have him witnessing us flounder. your video is quite good except everything is white and we can't see the angles you are talking about. very good points made though and being the wife, i am very grateful, thank you. i will catch up with further videos.
From what I see, you're ignoring the spring angle on the horizontal between the vaults.... I've cut several test pieces, and there's no way (that I can find) to have the horizontal set at the proper spring angle, and still meet the vault cuts.. Am I doing something wrong?????
I do these all the time by myself. First of all u need a compound miter that you can lay your wood flat. Put your protractor in the ceiling. The reading will tell u the daw angle and the saw tilt. There is a chart for this. Make your cuts and only go up that ladder once. Good luck. Making the jig etc. is too complicated
YOU ARE POINTING TO THINGS THE VIEWER CANNOT SEE! Sorry for the caps, hit the cl key. Point is, you need to work from the LEARNER's perspective. You reference a six-part series but do not provide a link to the series while advising that watching it is essential to understanding this new one. Folks come to watch these videos because they are NOT confident in the process. Jus sayin'
Crown can be difficult if you are the least bit weak with spacial orientation. It was a particular nightmare back in the day, when we had to cut it upside down and face down. Talk about taking time to setup a cut! Some guys could just walk to the saw and cut in 10 sec. Back then it took me 5min for compound angles. After a while it made more sense to me. Practice will improve your confidence.
BROFIT he’s just trying to explain to for people that don’t know how to do it. Not everyone has the same experience lvl. Just because you think it’s useless information other people might need a more detailed information to understand how to do it
Wow. So much incorrect info. Rolling the crown does not work on steep vaults. Really doesn't work good on any vault. Creates a crack on the non-vaulted walls that has to be filled with extra caulk. Steeper the vault the bigger the crack. It is also misleading to call installing crown easy. It is not for beginners. Larger crown that is being used in many homes today has to be cut flat. And that involves compound angles. I've been installing the stuff over 40 years now and I would never call it easy!!!
I do it for a living also. Never use a jig. Flat is the only way. When I measure vaulted ceilings I cut 10 inch sample pieces for inside, outside, and vaults. Tack them up. Measure in between and add 20. Works for me working solo
You are commenting on a 5 year old video that is very popular with over 200,000 views and a stack of positive comments. I must have done something right.😎
You have some good info; but are far too into yourself to get through a video. The main issue I have is; you speak like you’ve cracked the davinci code and actually don’t want to impart the knowledge - instead blow smoke up your own behind. Share or don’t share - there is nothing in between
Was really hoping to see actual crown molding completed.
Hey Ron, great video, looking forward to the next 2. Always enjoy, keep them coming.
Gosh I wish this came out about a year ago, really struggled with my vaulted ceiling project. Can't wait for the rest!
Shaping up to be another great series, thanks for the great explanation Ron.
God bless you Ron. You are a good man.
Nice video Ron! Thanks for sharing.😎👍JP
Bro your my new favorite guy!!
This is what I've been waiting for - crown on a vaulted ceiling.
Can you add a fourth video to answer questions?
What adjustments do you make for larger molding (wider than 5 1/2 inch)?
Thanks Ron I always wondered how people figured out how to hang crown on a vaulted ceiling
Ron to Ron! You are a master man! Thank you so much! I can follow a really long video despite other's short attention spans. Thanks again! You just opened my eyes! This is what I wish I would have known today and could have shown my boss!!
Not only 2 Rons, but 2 Ronnies😎🤙
Ron Paulk I ran some crown today and killed it! My boss was impressed to say the least, but I still need to get an angle finder, because we are doing it the old fashioned way by cutting a small piece 5-10 times until you get what you want. To be honest that's the way I have seen everyone do it in the middle TN area. But thanks to you I think I'll have them all beat!hahaha thanks Ronnie! You're the man!!
How do you transition from a horizontal ceiling to a 45° vaulted ceiling with an outside corner? Other than that, I fully understand what you did. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Ron
Great work
I really appreciate you taking the time to post this. This is a skill I've struggled with and have left money on the table in the past.
Hey Ron. Any tips or tutorials for installing cabinet crown with a ceilng that is way out if level? Thanks.
Great explanations.. Love what you do.
Looking forward to part 2 and 3 then since your first crown series kept me working all last winter!! I was starting to sweat one day being asked to do a room like this.
Ive said it a bunch of times in other comment sections but, I will be putting a video together (not the best quality) of the things I have done since my paulk total station build and Paulk crown lesson. Painter gone trim carpenter...
I just need to make the time already
thanks great info.
Is there a way to do a dead end or a return when the ceiling is sloped?
Hey Ron!
Great video. I’m still having a bit of trouble here. I have a vaulted ceiling exactly like you showed in this video above the fireplace. I saw that you use your protractor to get the plum in the lower corner which turned out to be 18.8.
When I went to the bottom corner of the wall, with my protractor for plum, I got a measurement of 111.6-90= 21.6. Is that angle that you’re saying will be what you would cut both of the top pieces at the peak going to be the exact same angle of what I would cut at the bottom corner where I was originally getting the 111.6-90=21.6?
I set my saw it’s just short of 22 and it was still off??? I’ve been reduced the angle on the saw to closer to 20 degrees and then it fit almost right on? What am I doing wrong here? ???
I then just got on a much taller ladder and took my digital protractor up to peak and got a reading of 147.6 degrees. I bisected that number, subtracted it from 90 and ended up with 16.2. Why is the angle cut at the actual peak totally different than the lower corner that you got the reading from in your video without having to go up to the peak?
Thanks so much for your help.
Hopefully the next two videos makes more sense
Thank you for your vaulted ceiling crown molding series videos. Do you have a suggestion on how to cut a crown molding return on a vaulted ceiling? I have a 9 degree slope ( 24" rise on a 14' room) and have used your method. I am coping my inside corners. On the high part of my ceiling, I have an attic access door and will need to dead end return my crown molding on either side of the hatch door. I am concerned that the downward, spring angle of the crown will make me have to shave the top side of the small, pie-shaped return to match the ceiling slope. Not sure how that would look. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I've figured out the solution to my question. The top end of the return is naturally tipped forward bringing the back end up to match the slope of the ceiling. The thing that needs to happen is the small piece that meets the wall. Instead of cutting this at 90 degrees to meet the wall, I need to add 9 degrees to that because I had about a 3/8" gap at the ceiling peak when it was tilted forward.
What is the maximum pitch that this method works on?
Ron, thanks for tackling this topic. Where a raked ceiling line meets a level one with the walls meeting in the corner at 90, are both crown pieces installed (as opposed to sawn) at the same spring angle according to your method? If so, do you add a short transition piece between the level one and the raked one? I ask because if you project the respective bottom edge lines of both crown pieces, the bottom of the raked piece lands in the corner below the line of the level piece, due to the extra vertical length of the plumb cut on the raked piece and the fact that the level piece must be raised higher than normally dictated by the spring angle in order for its top edge to contact the sloped ceiling. I have made these joints without adding the transition I mention, (I think it looks cleaner) but only by intentionally adjusting the spring angle of one or the other of these pieces (consistently for each type) so that their bottom edges meet at the same elevation in the corner. If you don't add the transition piece using your method and still get the bottom edges to meet, I look forward to seeing how you do it.
JT - Sorry if my verbiage was unclear. As you no doubt know, it's a lot easier to demonstrate this stuff and/or ask questions about it when you're standing right in front of the actual work.
I have this same question. Did you every figure this out?
And how do you do it with OUT a digital pitch/angle meter
Ron awesome work. I had a question regarding vaulted crown molding. When running crown on a vaulted ceiling, do you let the wall projection determine the orientation. Meaning when you are running a horizontal run but the ceiling is vaulting up 45 degrees or so and I wanted to know if I should be favoring the bottom of the crown which is on a flat wall and the top is on an angled wall. Hope you understand my question. Thank you.
Put the protractor in the peak. The reading will tell you a degree. You can use a chart that will give you the saw angle and saw tilt. This only works when laying the board flat for a compound miter. He makes it much too difficult. I do these by myself all the time. I will make sure my two ceiling pieces will work. Then I cut them 10 inches long. Then I cut my inside or outside corner pieces 10 inches long. Measure in between and add 20 inches. Simple. Good luck
What is the brand and model of the digital protractor that you're using to check vaulted ceiling angles?
I believe that it's a Bosch.
Saludos gracias.
What brand is your digital protractor?
Bosch
I need a visual
I think that is what the video does?🙃
Thanks
I like video and explanation, but I need to see the saw cut
All these videos say cut same cuts you use on a flat ceiling. Probably works for low pitched vaulted ceiling, becomes significantly different on high pitch ceilings. Not so easy to roll molding off its true spring angle as pitch of ceiling increases.
Doesn't crown on vaulted ceilings only Work up to about 6:12 pitch roofs? You can only roll the crown so far. Plus you have to add a bunch of caulk for the gap you are creating on the bottom of the crown. Or do some weird back cut to remove excess material.
Most of the houses in my neighborhood that have vaulted ceilings (including mine) are 12:12 roofs. So there is no way to do crown unless you add ugly blocks in the corners or add a third piece of crown to connect the two sides
So I watched all the videos, and when I went to fit the crown in my 8/12 ceiling I got nowhere near an angle that could work. I’m perplexed.
So what if the vaulted side meets an outside miter?
the only solution i have found is to install a corner block or pendant to hide the difference in miter cut length, gary katz has a good article on this.
hi great saying to take every corner as a 90 degree, but our house was built 200 years ago and we live on black soil which moves either way given wet or dry weather. NO corner in this house is at a 90 degree. then we add on the pitched ceiling. yes it is a problem, and my father (a builder ) is no longer with us. Perhaps that is a good thing, we don't have him witnessing us flounder. your video is quite good except everything is white and we can't see the angles you are talking about. very good points made though and being the wife, i am very grateful, thank you. i will catch up with further videos.
*starts off video: "Putting up crown in the vaulted room is sooo easy!"
*10 minutes and four seconds later:
"The content is too long for one video.."
what if the crown is too big to stand up on the saw?
Use a saw that you can lay the crown flat. That's all I do. Sooo much easier. That's what compound saws are made for
From what I see, you're ignoring the spring angle on the horizontal between the vaults.... I've cut several test pieces, and there's no way (that I can find) to have the horizontal set at the proper spring angle, and still meet the vault cuts.. Am I doing something wrong?????
I do these all the time by myself. First of all u need a compound miter that you can lay your wood flat. Put your protractor in the ceiling. The reading will tell u the daw angle and the saw tilt. There is a chart for this. Make your cuts and only go up that ladder once. Good luck. Making the jig etc. is too complicated
I’m doing a vaulted ceiling now. It slopes up 30degrees and I’m using 4.5”
It doesn’t work to just twist the moldings around or to use regular inside and outside miters after a certain pitch or larger molding.
“Crown mounding on a vaulted ceiling is SO EASY”....then whips out a protractor and says the words, obtuse angle. Lol. Great video!
Wow couldn't you make it more complicated
This guy knows how to milk the viewer. 6 Parts series to put up crown?
This doesn't work with all CM.
YOU ARE POINTING TO THINGS THE VIEWER CANNOT SEE! Sorry for the caps, hit the cl key. Point is, you need to work from the LEARNER's perspective.
You reference a six-part series but do not provide a link to the series while advising that watching it is essential to understanding this new one.
Folks come to watch these videos because they are NOT confident in the process.
Jus sayin'
Guilty 🤪
You spelled it wrong... it’s crown Moulding.... not molding. Good video, thanks.
My cabinet maker just asked if I can call you send your number
seems Ron will not answer questions. hmmm
AAA++++
...ok well it still doesn't seem very simple.
This was painful. There's a lot of unnecessary info. Imo
Crown can be difficult if you are the least bit weak with spacial orientation. It was a particular nightmare back in the day, when we had to cut it upside down and face down. Talk about taking time to setup a cut! Some guys could just walk to the saw and cut in 10 sec. Back then it took me 5min for compound angles. After a while it made more sense to me. Practice will improve your confidence.
👍🏻
BROFIT he’s just trying to explain to for people that don’t know how to do it. Not everyone has the same experience lvl. Just because you think it’s useless information other people might need a more detailed information to understand how to do it
You talked the whole video!!!!!
Thank You😀
Such a triggering video title. Lol
Wow. So much incorrect info. Rolling the crown does not work on steep vaults. Really doesn't work good on any vault. Creates a crack on the non-vaulted walls that has to be filled with extra caulk. Steeper the vault the bigger the crack. It is also misleading to call installing crown easy. It is not for beginners. Larger crown that is being used in many homes today has to be cut flat. And that involves compound angles. I've been installing the stuff over 40 years now and I would never call it easy!!!
I do it for a living also. Never use a jig. Flat is the only way. When I measure vaulted ceilings I cut 10 inch sample pieces for inside, outside, and vaults. Tack them up. Measure in between and add 20. Works for me working solo
Bob, do you make the pie shaped transition piece or does the compound cut tie in the horizontal cut to the vault.
You are too slow, even at 2x it's hard to follow. Please take that as constructive criticism. Pick up the pace.
You are commenting on a 5 year old video that is very popular with over 200,000 views and a stack of positive comments. I must have done something right.😎
@@TheSmartWoodshop lol ok then, still too slow.
Pick up the speed of you're not stupid 😜
You're talking too much. More hands on please.
This video sucked, he's not going to show you anything but talk about what how he's going to measure...ijs
You have some good info; but are far too into yourself to get through a video. The main issue I have is; you speak like you’ve cracked the davinci code and actually don’t want to impart the knowledge - instead blow smoke up your own behind.
Share or don’t share - there is nothing in between