@@ModernMountainMan I can’t exactly remember but I lined my 22-250 in kinda like that. I think I went 1” high at 50 and it’s almost dead on at 300. Close enough for me anyway.
This is a great video for anyone with limited resources and shooting space. I’ve never seen anyone shoot at a Land fill before though Lol Jesus the Trash left behind. I bet it’s a reloaders dream with all the Brass lying around. Stay safe out there Man great Video. Semper Fidelis
Thanks for the video I did this with my 1-6 LPVO works just fine and also my savage 10 in. 308 and 5-35×54 scope (although the distance between the center of my scope and center of my bore was different the method still worked) to help get me on paper for finer adjustments at 100mtrs saved on ammo getting me on paper straight of the bat. Superb 👍
Good video bro , just found this channel..gonna look at some more of your stuff. Looks like you guys need to spend a day cleaning up your range. Be well.
Thanks for the video, been trying to zero in a new AR with a red dot before taking it to the range to get it tighter and I thought I recognized the range you were at, i live in SW VA and go to that range all the time lol.
I think it's better to get the optic much closer to perfect when you install it. His windage was way off which means his barrel was pointing one way and the optic quite a bit off left to right. Think of the lenses inside the scope as tubes which get moved when your adjust windage and elevation. It's better to have the tubes (lenses) be as concentric as possible which will allow you the most adjustment out in the field. If the smaller inside tube (lens) is way off to one side or the other (windage), it's going to reduce the the amount of elevation adjustment you're going to have because the two circles, inside tube (lens) and outside tube are too close together so as you adjust vertically the inner tube will hit the inside wall of the outer tube much sooner. You have to think about this in your brain. Just draw two circles on paper that are concentric. Now draw the same two circles with the inner circle way off to one side. You can now see there is much less room vertically for the inner circle. Try to make sure your optic installation is as close to perfect as possible and then you'll need less "clicks" to zero your rifle. Shims might be necessary and soda cans work pretty well if you need shims. There are better ways...of course.
Thanks for responding modern mountain man! Of course I messed this up the first time. I accidentally put my point of impact on the top circle and my point of aim on the bottom circle LOL! Anybody know what this would do or what kind of zero this would be?
@@ModernMountainMan Wow! So glad I wasn't actually shooting. I was doing this in my living room. Exactly 10 yards from my kitchen table to my bathroom door. Using a green laser sight in the barrel and a vortex Red Dot. It should be good enough while I get to the range and fine tune. Thanks again man!
Thanks man! Have a question though. Don't laugh, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I understand that when you're at 10 yards you're aiming at the top circle and your round should impact at the bottom circle. But when the target is at 50 yards are you aiming at the top circle or were you aiming at the bottom circle? My thinking is that, at 50 yards, you are aiming at the bottom circle right?
went well! My measurements from scope to barrel weren't precise BUT I now have a damn good "dope" for future shootings. It needs to be tweaked and I'm good with that @@ModernMountainMan
Ive seen something on google saying that a 26 yard zero will give you the perfect point blank range. Im trying this with my semi auto 270 win. Zero it at 26 yards for max point blank range.
26 yard zero was shooting 5 inches high at 100yards. I lowered it to hit 3 inches high at 100yards. Kind of too extreme for me, 5 inches high at 100 yards hahahaha
Hmm. I’ll have to try this. Basically what you’re going for is to match the offset of the sights or optic with the offset of point of aim/point of impact at 10 yards? Am I understanding this correctly? (If your optic is 1.9” above the bore, impact should be 1.9” low at 10 yards?) Will this work with open sights with less offset, or is it only really gonna work with a standard offset optic on an AR? Tried zeroing at 25 yards w open sights but first problem is at 25 yards through the open sights my point of aim is almost completely obscured by my front post, and second problem is that I was supporting my stance by bracing against one side of a 4x4 post and kneeling. It’s a pretty steady position, but not as good as prone or from a table, and I realized when I switched shooting positions that I’m pretty sure I was pulling shots to the right because I was bracing against the left side of the post so every time i broke the trigger, I would slightly pull the muzzle right. This method might make it easier given my space constraints and ammo constraints. Thanks man.
You’re at full magnification when sighting in. The Frank Proctor method is great. Any fine turning is up to the shooter. There’s many factors that could vary results but it’ll get you close for sure.
It’s a public range that gets cleaned once a week. If I can remember correctly I filmed this the day before cleaning day. Good news though, I just joined a really great private club.
Ok that's what I needed to clarify .... Measure Mid optc to mid bore on my rifle setup and use that measurement at 10 yards for a 50/200 on a M1A 7.62x51 using 150/168 FMJ ...
I'm kind of paranoid, I measure the distance between the middle of the scope tube and the center of the barrel for the dots location in the target for a ten yards zero.
It will get you on paper faster and dial roughly in, but because the ballistics are quite a bit different, the 50/200 ballistic rainbow won’t be exactly the same
@@ModernMountainMan Second part of "I'm kind of paranoid". Make a shot aiming at the 1st dot, bullet should hit close to second dot, move windage and elevation to the bullet hole at 10 yards. Shoot 50 yards, measure the bullet hole from the target center, use scope tool pro app (for lazy guys) or do the numbers yourself (1/4" = one click at 100 yards, two clicks at 50 yards etc)to calculate how many clicks for windage and how many clicks for elevation. This app will tell how many clicks off center you are. You should be on target or very close. The more you practice the more skilled you get. Have a nice day. 👍Correct me if I'm wrong. I like to learn from my mistakes. Use a ballistic calculator for every caliber.
It would work to get you on target at 50 yards, but the ballistic trajectory is different for each caliber, so the “rise and fall” and the yardage of where it would come back to zero would be different.
@@ModernMountainMan if I compensated for it, say dialed it in a shade high or low at 50m?? At my property I've only got a safe 50 m range to shoot at??
What you want to do is figure out what the ballistics are for your rifle and load. Then figure out what you want your zero to be and figure out how high/low that would be at 50, then sight it in accordingly.
What's interesting is that If you were sighted at 50 m and shoot at a target 75 m away, your bullet will be too high. Seems kinda counter intuitive. Perhaps you would want to sight in for the range where you would never 'overshoot'.. which depends on bullet velocity and the offset between your sight and barrel
The ballistic rainbow with this sight in range you are always within 2” of point of aim being the same as point of impact. For hunting or battle, that is all you need.
This is a battle zero its nice because no matter the range of a target from 10-250yards you can aim dead center of the target and the highest your bullet will hit from the bullseye is about 2in and the lowest it will hit at 250 yards is 2in up until about 300 yards you drop off a bit
I watched a video. Where the claim was. 223. At. +/- 3100 ft per sec. In 100 yards. Has 1.47". Of fall My red dot is 1.75". Above center of my barrel so far that's my known math .
I cannot say definitely, but I think it would. The basis of my assumption is that I know that scopes with Ballistic Drop Compensation reticles can be use for both 223/5.56 and 308/7.63x51
Another go video. Finly subscribe. Yes new gun at puplic range yea sight in a the 10 yard Lane musltly bc not to busy. Then move to 100 in re zero kind how did the 300blk. But may go back re zero it at 50 bc never shoot that past 100yards kind just see with old 3x9x40 Simmons would hold zero bc was dropped on old rifel from family members 😔 and mounts on my old 7mm mag. Replace that on that gun with a nikon with hold over marks. That gun dead on at 10 yards right know from 1 shot surprised me be I just line scope up on wall did do no clicks. But gun is having issues with extracting spent brass.. one older 2000s model 70. Probably rezero it to 50 or so .
As a rule of thumb also check any ballistic theory through your own equipment. That being said because of it closer POA/POI it’s going to throw a slightly higher ballistic rainbow, but it should keep everything inside of 6-7”0-300 yards. I like the tighter rainbow of the 50/200 but I also realize it drops quicker after 300. Since most of what I shoot is inside of 300, I gladly take that trade.
36 zero is good for general shooting out to 300, its has advantage when your using Iron Sights because you'll just need to do hold under and the front sight wont obscure the target as oppose to the 200 zero but it takes some skills to do that and the fact that your shooting at unknown distances, 36 zero has higher POI between 100-200ish where talking only about it hitting the torso, and in combat scenario you wont be hitting your targets cause most of them will be peeking or in a type of concealment, shooting though embrasures or murder holes, and only their heads and shoulder part will be expose. 200 zero has the ability to headshot targets out to 200, now thats well enough since most of the engagement range happen less than 300, well unless if your fighting in afghanistan, and that means 200 zero pretty much means no hold over or under. Check AR-15 Zero Chart. see whats best fits your needs.
It will get you on paper faster and dial roughly in, but because the ballistics are quite a bit different, the 50/200 ballistic rainbow won’t be exactly the same
Because the bullet does not travel in a straight path but the sight is fixed on a straight path. At 10 yards the bullet will be 1.9 inches low. At 50 yds it will be a bullseye. At 100 yds it will be about an inch high. At 200 yds it drops back down into the bullseye.
Just imagine golfing. Your eye is fixed on the desired landing point 50 yards away. You most surely can't hit the golf ball directly in a straight line to get it there.
![[How to] Zeroing without the zeroing target? 50 yards zero at 25 yards range? / URGI & T2](/img/n.gif)
I’ve lined my guns in at 50 for the last 12+ years. A lot of people say I’m stupid for doing it. I like it
It’s all about the ballistic science
@@ModernMountainMan I can’t exactly remember but I lined my 22-250 in kinda like that. I think I went 1” high at 50 and it’s almost dead on at 300. Close enough for me anyway.
Straight to the point with a great explanation. Thank you.
Thank you!
Big props to Frank Proctor for the theory!
That is an excellent trick! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Great tip man. I have an AR that I need to sight in, I'll give this a try!
Thanks! Yeah bro give it a whirl and let me know what you think.
This is a great video for anyone with limited resources and shooting space. I’ve never seen anyone shoot at a Land fill before though Lol Jesus the Trash left behind. I bet it’s a reloaders dream with all the Brass lying around. Stay safe out there Man great Video. Semper Fidelis
Thanks! It was the day before cleaning day at a public range.
Excellent video. It is good to learn
Thanks so much
Great video, gonna do that this weekend
Awesome! Enjoy
Awesome video. Thank you.
Thank you!
Very nice break down Sir
Thanks
Thanks for the video I did this with my 1-6 LPVO works just fine and also my savage 10 in. 308 and 5-35×54 scope (although the distance between the center of my scope and center of my bore was different the method still worked) to help get me on paper for finer adjustments at 100mtrs saved on ammo getting me on paper straight of the bat. Superb 👍
Glad to hear it was helpful!
@@ModernMountainMan yeah saved a ton of ammo.
Which is super important these days
I’ve also had very good results from the 50/200 yard zero with 6.5 Grendel
Good to know!
Good stuff keep it up, brother!
Thanks 😊
Great video.
Thanks bro!
Nicely done
Thanks
Just found your channel and subscribed
Awesome! Welcome aboard
Good video bro , just found this channel..gonna look at some more of your stuff. Looks like you guys need to spend a day cleaning up your range. Be well.
Thanks. Yeah it’s a public range and it was the day before cleaning day. Luckily I have just joined a private range... cleaner and waaaaaay safer.
@@ModernMountainMan good to hear
Thanks for the video, been trying to zero in a new AR with a red dot before taking it to the range to get it tighter and I thought I recognized the range you were at, i live in SW VA and go to that range all the time lol.
Yes sir, that public range is well used 😂
@@ModernMountainMan yeah no kidding, sadly people have a tendency to trash it as well at least in the past.
Yeah, the way you are only aloud to go down range every 30 minutes, I think hinders people from waiting around to clean up after themselves.
3 shot sight in is legit. Thank you.
Thanks
Good tip, I'll try it on my .270 Winchester.
The long range ballistics will workout differently but like the Beowulf in the video, it will work to get you roughed it quicker.
I think it's better to get the optic much closer to perfect when you install it. His windage was way off which means his barrel was pointing one way and the optic quite a bit off left to right. Think of the lenses inside the scope as tubes which get moved when your adjust windage and elevation. It's better to have the tubes (lenses) be as concentric as possible which will allow you the most adjustment out in the field. If the smaller inside tube (lens) is way off to one side or the other (windage), it's going to reduce the the amount of elevation adjustment you're going to have because the two circles, inside tube (lens) and outside tube are too close together so as you adjust vertically the inner tube will hit the inside wall of the outer tube much sooner. You have to think about this in your brain. Just draw two circles on paper that are concentric. Now draw the same two circles with the inner circle way off to one side. You can now see there is much less room vertically for the inner circle. Try to make sure your optic installation is as close to perfect as possible and then you'll need less "clicks" to zero your rifle. Shims might be necessary and soda cans work pretty well if you need shims. There are better ways...of course.
I been playing with a ballistic app. It's fun to see what you can make happen by changing the sight in range by a yard or two.
Ballistics.. Making Math Great Again
@@ModernMountainMan Truth!!
Pretty neat. My hunting rifle has a 45/100 zero and I have subtensions in the scope for longer.
Is that on the 30-30 or on the 45/70?
@@ModernMountainMan 30-30 is setup that way. The 45-70 could be similar, but I haven't taken the time.
@@PatRMG I was thinking about the 45/70 last night and wondering what kind of BDC it would need to really stretch it’s legs.
@@PatRMG hey pat. May do same thing with my nikon scope on 7mm mag bc has dots in scope for different point ammo. With app
Thanks
Welcome
Best video
Appreciate that!
Awesome
Thanks
Can’t beat 3 shots!
Especially when you are saving that expensive ammo for something more fun that punching paper😁
Thanks for responding modern mountain man! Of course I messed this up the first time. I accidentally put my point of impact on the top circle and my point of aim on the bottom circle LOL! Anybody know what this would do or what kind of zero this would be?
That would send the arc of trajectory really high over distance for sure.
@@ModernMountainMan
Wow! So glad I wasn't actually shooting. I was doing this in my living room. Exactly 10 yards from my kitchen table to my bathroom door. Using a green laser sight in the barrel and a vortex Red Dot. It should be good enough while I get to the range and fine tune. Thanks again man!
Thanks man! Have a question though. Don't laugh, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I understand that when you're at 10 yards you're aiming at the top circle and your round should impact at the bottom circle. But when the target is at 50 yards are you aiming at the top circle or were you aiming at the bottom circle? My thinking is that, at 50 yards, you are aiming at the bottom circle right?
Bottom circle. That is where the point of aim and point of impact should align (the first time).
I'm trying this method tomorrow. Appears to be fool proof
Let me know how it goes!
went well! My measurements from scope to barrel weren't precise BUT I now have a damn good "dope" for future shootings. It needs to be tweaked and I'm good with that @@ModernMountainMan
@@SEPTEMBERMAN glad to hear that it worked well.
So after its dialed in do u still aim 1.9 " of the bullseye to hit the bullseye or can u actually aim AT the bullseye to hit it??
Aim at the Bullseye 🎯 at 50/200.
Ive seen something on google saying that a 26 yard zero will give you the perfect point blank range. Im trying this with my semi auto 270 win. Zero it at 26 yards for max point blank range.
Let me know how it goes.
26 yard zero was shooting 5 inches high at 100yards. I lowered it to hit 3 inches high at 100yards. Kind of too extreme for me, 5 inches high at 100 yards hahahaha
At point blank range just treat any firearm like a shotgun, point and shoot, instinctively.
Hmm. I’ll have to try this. Basically what you’re going for is to match the offset of the sights or optic with the offset of point of aim/point of impact at 10 yards? Am I understanding this correctly? (If your optic is 1.9” above the bore, impact should be 1.9” low at 10 yards?) Will this work with open sights with less offset, or is it only really gonna work with a standard offset optic on an AR? Tried zeroing at 25 yards w open sights but first problem is at 25 yards through the open sights my point of aim is almost completely obscured by my front post, and second problem is that I was supporting my stance by bracing against one side of a 4x4 post and kneeling. It’s a pretty steady position, but not as good as prone or from a table, and I realized when I switched shooting positions that I’m pretty sure I was pulling shots to the right because I was bracing against the left side of the post so every time i broke the trigger, I would slightly pull the muzzle right. This method might make it easier given my space constraints and ammo constraints. Thanks man.
You got it bro!
@@ModernMountainMan thanks. Will try it.
Let me know how it goes
So If I used a laser bore sight would I put the laser on the bottom dot and the reticle on the top dot?
Yes, at that range
I think the Reticle on the center. Have you found the correct answer yet. I'm in need information too
👍🔥
I didn't know they allowed shooting at the land fill
🤣
When shooting at 10 meters you leave the optics with how many x zoom?
I max mine out
You’re at full magnification when sighting in. The Frank Proctor method is great. Any fine turning is up to the shooter. There’s many factors that could vary results but it’ll get you close for sure.
How close were you when testing zero with ammo?
The first two shots were at 10 yards and the confirming zero was at 50.
Looks like the range needs to be cleaned up 🤷♂️ it’s odd that some many people have a problem with how that works the highs and lows on trajectory.
It’s a public range that gets cleaned once a week. If I can remember correctly I filmed this the day before cleaning day. Good news though, I just joined a really great private club.
Modern Mountain Man 👍
Around here people will go through 2 to 3 boxes of ammo...then not have any ammo to hunt with!
Sounds like a good excuse to reload 😉
So is 1.9" the standard for point of aim and point of impact At 10 yard zero .... Would it also be the same for an M1A 7.62x51 / 150g FMJ ?
It would be the standard for ARs with standard riser/optics height. You should measure the distance between mid optic and bore.
Ok that's what I needed to clarify .... Measure Mid optc to mid bore on my rifle setup and use that measurement at 10 yards for a 50/200 on a M1A 7.62x51 using 150/168 FMJ ...
@@nelson587 yes. The 50/200 is based on the 5.56 with 55gn bullet, but your round should have a similar enough of a ballistic drop at that range.
I'm kind of paranoid, I measure the distance between the middle of the scope tube and the center of the barrel for the dots location in the target for a ten yards zero.
Will this work with 17hmr
It will get you on paper faster and dial roughly in, but because the ballistics are quite a bit different, the 50/200 ballistic rainbow won’t be exactly the same
@@ModernMountainMan Second part of "I'm kind of paranoid". Make a shot aiming at the 1st dot, bullet should hit close to second dot, move windage and elevation to the bullet hole at 10 yards. Shoot 50 yards, measure the bullet hole from the target center, use scope tool pro app (for lazy guys) or do the numbers yourself (1/4" = one click at 100 yards, two clicks at 50 yards etc)to calculate how many clicks for windage and how many clicks for elevation. This app will tell how many clicks off center you are. You should be on target or very close. The more you practice the more skilled you get. Have a nice day. 👍Correct me if I'm wrong. I like to learn from my mistakes. Use a ballistic calculator for every caliber.
Would this work with other calibres, like .308, 300 win mag etc.??
It would work to get you on target at 50 yards, but the ballistic trajectory is different for each caliber, so the “rise and fall” and the yardage of where it would come back to zero would be different.
@@ModernMountainMan if I compensated for it, say dialed it in a shade high or low at 50m?? At my property I've only got a safe 50 m range to shoot at??
What you want to do is figure out what the ballistics are for your rifle and load. Then figure out what you want your zero to be and figure out how high/low that would be at 50, then sight it in accordingly.
What's interesting is that If you were sighted at 50 m and shoot at a target 75 m away, your bullet will be too high. Seems kinda counter intuitive. Perhaps you would want to sight in for the range where you would never 'overshoot'.. which depends on bullet velocity and the offset between your sight and barrel
The ballistic rainbow with this sight in range you are always within 2” of point of aim being the same as point of impact. For hunting or battle, that is all you need.
This is a battle zero its nice because no matter the range of a target from 10-250yards you can aim dead center of the target and the highest your bullet will hit from the bullseye is about 2in and the lowest it will hit at 250 yards is 2in up until about 300 yards you drop off a bit
I watched a video. Where the claim was. 223. At. +/- 3100 ft per sec. In 100 yards. Has 1.47". Of fall My red dot is 1.75". Above center of my barrel so far that's my known math .
That would be 200 clicks on a 1/4 moa scope. I don't have that many.
will the 50/200 work with 762.x51 also
I cannot say definitely, but I think it would. The basis of my assumption is that I know that scopes with Ballistic Drop Compensation reticles can be use for both 223/5.56 and 308/7.63x51
CAN THIS METHOD BE USED WITH A 9MM CARBINE?
The ballistic arc will be different at 200 yards, but yes this method will work to get you on at 50 for sure.
Another go video. Finly subscribe. Yes new gun at puplic range yea sight in a the 10 yard Lane musltly bc not to busy. Then move to 100 in re zero kind how did the 300blk. But may go back re zero it at 50 bc never shoot that past 100yards kind just see with old 3x9x40 Simmons would hold zero bc was dropped on old rifel from family members 😔 and mounts on my old 7mm mag. Replace that on that gun with a nikon with hold over marks. That gun dead on at 10 yards right know from 1 shot surprised me be I just line scope up on wall did do no clicks. But gun is having issues with extracting spent brass.. one older 2000s model 70. Probably rezero it to 50 or so .
Thanks! Welcome aboard!
Doesn't get much sweeter then that buddy.
Thanks!
Clean up that range.
That was a public range after a three day weekend. Check out some of my newer videos and see the nice, clean private club I shoot at now 😊
36 yard zero?? what's your thoughts?
As a rule of thumb also check any ballistic theory through your own equipment. That being said because of it closer POA/POI it’s going to throw a slightly higher ballistic rainbow, but it should keep everything inside of 6-7”0-300 yards. I like the tighter rainbow of the 50/200 but I also realize it drops quicker after 300. Since most of what I shoot is inside of 300, I gladly take that trade.
36 zero is good for general shooting out to 300, its has advantage when your using Iron Sights because you'll just need to do hold under and the front sight wont obscure the target as oppose to the 200 zero but it takes some skills to do that and the fact that your shooting at unknown distances, 36 zero has higher POI between 100-200ish where talking only about it hitting the torso, and in combat scenario you wont be hitting your targets cause most of them will be peeking or in a type of concealment, shooting though embrasures or murder holes, and only their heads and shoulder part will be expose.
200 zero has the ability to headshot targets out to 200, now thats well enough since most of the engagement range happen less than 300, well unless if your fighting in afghanistan, and that means 200 zero pretty much means no hold over or under.
Check AR-15 Zero Chart. see whats best fits your needs.
Will this work on a 17hmr
It will get you on paper faster and dial roughly in, but because the ballistics are quite a bit different, the 50/200 ballistic rainbow won’t be exactly the same
Thanks
At no time will a bullet ever rise above the horizontal plane of the gun barrel. Ever!
explained at 0:58
Man, that range looks like a dump site…..
Yeah that’s a public range after a three day weekend. The private range I go to now is much nicer.
if zero at 30 yard = zero at 200 yard try it
I'm confused folks. How in the hell can you Zero
on the Bullseye, yet hit the other spot?
Because the bullet does not travel in a straight path but the sight is fixed on a straight path. At 10 yards the bullet will be 1.9 inches low. At 50 yds it will be a bullseye. At 100 yds it will be about an inch high. At 200 yds it drops back down into the bullseye.
Just imagine golfing. Your eye is fixed on the desired landing point 50 yards away. You most surely can't hit the golf ball directly in a straight line to get it there.
Won't work you have spin drift better sight in a little left.
Lose the music
Bullets rise then fall
lol bullets do not rise. They begin falling immediately, hello gravity.