One of the greatest new model techniques I have ever seen. Looking foward to giving it a try, I'm thinking it should help solve losing a lot of panel detail, Thanks.
Super awesome technique. I will use this new learned skilled and start building my models without painting. Finally zero need for painting, saving time plus using 6000-8000 sanding to show smooth surfaces totally worth the time in building kits now. Thank you
Thank you so much for making these tutorials. I'm not very good at explaining stuff to people, so it really helps when I want to show my friends new (to them) techniques
I’m about to build my first Gunpla using the same kit you demonstrated seam removal on in your previous tutorial. I plan to use your awesome methods to remove seams, but I have two questions before I start. First, in the last video, you mentioned that after sanding, a white line could sometimes appear. Since I don’t plan on painting-at least not yet-should I use this method to avoid a visible white line on a white part? Second, this is more of a general question, but why doesn't simply melting the seam and pressing the parts together yield the same results as melting cutoffs in a vial with cement? The squeeze-out and the colored cement from the cutoffs seem to match the part color, so I’m wondering why one approach is better than the other.
thank you for commenting! And to answer your question 1. For white parts the seam line will not be visible after sanding so you wouldn’t need to make your own putty. 2. To be honest, I have no idea why but it works. If you were to remove the seam normally, you would get a white line. The putty method will remove that. You can try and see the magic that happens. I’m sure there’s a scientific reason why, but unfortunately I’m not a scientist nor smart enough to understand
Would wiping away the excess paste when squeezing the pieces together affect the integrity of the drying process? Or do you have to let the excess be there and dry no matter what? I thought it could reduce the amount of sanding if you had less excess
You can imagine the excess as melted plastic that are welded together. Therefore, yes, you can indeed wipe off the excess paste and remove the excess sanding process. The only problem I could foresee is when you remove the excess plastic you may melt other part of the surface and therefore require larger sanding area.
Question, would the empty bottle still be reusable after doing this? Is the sprue glue that we made easy to clean off the bottle? Or do people just buy a new bottle everytime lol
You can pour the excess into a paper towel, and let the bottle dry until you can peel it off. It should come off cleanly, which you can then rinse the bottle for reuse
Hello dude i hope you can answer this. But what is that point of melting sprue? To avoid discoloration when putting cement right? But on white it no need to melt right? Also much better to use extra thin?
When you melt spruce it offers few advantages. 1. It creates a plastic putty used for filling up gaps. 2. Using colored plastic will blend in with the plastic of the part nicely. But unnecessarily with white, which you are indeed correct. 3. Any thin plastic cement will do nicely. Hope I answered them all!
I have a question: what is the area you sand using the 4000, 6000 and 8000 grit paper? is it only the area which you welded and sanded, or do you have to polish the entire piece? In other words, when you are done polishing, will the welded area have the same finish as the rest of the model, or will there be a noticable difference from the finish out of the box?
You go to 8000 grit to get the same polish or finish as the rest of the plastic. Therefore you only need to polish the welded areas. However, you can actually stop at 4000 or lower if you apply a top coat.
This is only possible for colored plastic and not for anything where the plastic has coating. Therefore if the plastic is metallic colored, then yes it should work. I may be horribly wrong though since I have never tried metallic plastic.
Hey Boss. Great Video. It works like a charm. However I have a question and what do I do with the remaining Dissolve plastic. I only have the 1 glass and I need it to melt down some more plastic in different colors. Mind telling me how to Dispose of it? thanks!
To throw away the remaining content, throw most away in a trash and let the container dry in an open ventilated area. Once completely dry, you should be able to peel the remaining content off, wipe off with dry paper towel if necessary, and rinse the container. Never dump any content into the sink and always throw it away in trash. Hope this helps!
I honestly wouldn’t know since I’ve only experimented with Mr. hobby tool cleaner and tamiya air brush cleaner. However, if the plastic melts then it should work with acetone as well. Good luck!
just watched this one and the previous for the white part, very simple yet useful tips for gunpla beginner as me. Quick one question, is this Thin Cement can be used as glue as well, e.g. for sticking pla plate? thanks
The glass jar is reusable. If you wish to reuse the jar, empty the content into a trash bin, keep the lid open and let the jar sit outside to let the remaining content dry out. Once the content is dry, you can peel it off and clean the jar.
@@i.r.o.4456 Hello IRO, I might be asking a stupid question, but is there a good way to clean the brush after the cement paste application? Many thanks!
In my experience not really. You can use tool cleaners from Mr. Hobby or tamiya, but you would still have gunk left on the brush. After multiple failures, I would suggest using old brushes or toothpick as alternative now.
What's the difference in using a thin cement vs normal Tamiya when making this putty? I used normal cement and it seems to have discolored the plastic quite noticably (thankfully only have tried this on my pokepla and not a real kit yet)
Mostly the consistency of the putty, but the normal cement tends to be stronger in solution, so like you said it might discolor the plastic a little bit
Okay, I’ve tried all these seam line removal techniques, but where they lose me is squeezing the parts together and making the plastic gush out. I have both thick and thin Tamiya cement, and yet I can’t get this to happen using either of them. I swear to god, assembling bootlegs takes less force than I’m applying here. What the hell am I doing wrong?
That is an interesting dilemma. I recommend the thin cement since it would pour into the seam better. When you squeeze it out, that is gushing out the excess cement as well as the melted plastic. Therefore if you aren’t seeing the excess squeezed out, maybe little cement was applied to the plastic, or the parts are already welded and you just need to sand the parts. If you would like to, then let me know further if anything changes or it still doesn’t work.
@ Huh. It’s probable I’m just being too conservative on my cement application. I am definitely the kind of guy who thinks less is more. Thanks for the input.
Yes and no. You can indeed go with 400 and finish with 4000. However, 400 grit usually leaves a rough mark on the surface, so I use different grit to ease the roughness
That is a difficult question, since most of the time it's when you feel you’ve sanded enough For lower grits, you sand it enough until you’ve removed the nub mark and the surface is flat. For higher grits, I would usually sand back and forth 6 times and check the surface to see if there’s less scratches. Sorry if this won’t help
I would let it air dry outside until the substance becomes hardened and easy to peel off, which then you would throw it out in the trash. Never the sink. Then you can rinse the bottles for reuse
Dude this is so simple and short. No unnecessary chatter. Kudos!
And thank you for your kind comment :3
Your videos are so quick and easy. I’m so happy I found your channel. Please don’t stop making videos!!
I won’t! But I have limited time these days.... I’ll try my best though!
One of the greatest new model techniques I have ever seen. Looking foward to giving it a try, I'm thinking it should help solve losing a lot of panel detail, Thanks.
Glad the video helped!
Super awesome technique. I will use this new learned skilled and start building my models without painting. Finally zero need for painting, saving time plus using 6000-8000 sanding to show smooth surfaces totally worth the time in building kits now. Thank you
Thank you so much for the compliment! Though if you are okay with spraying top coat from a can, you can skip most of the sanding process.
Cheers!
Thank you so much for making these tutorials. I'm not very good at explaining stuff to people, so it really helps when I want to show my friends new (to them) techniques
I am glad it helps! And thank you for sharing
I’m about to build my first Gunpla using the same kit you demonstrated seam removal on in your previous tutorial. I plan to use your awesome methods to remove seams, but I have two questions before I start. First, in the last video, you mentioned that after sanding, a white line could sometimes appear. Since I don’t plan on painting-at least not yet-should I use this method to avoid a visible white line on a white part? Second, this is more of a general question, but why doesn't simply melting the seam and pressing the parts together yield the same results as melting cutoffs in a vial with cement? The squeeze-out and the colored cement from the cutoffs seem to match the part color, so I’m wondering why one approach is better than the other.
thank you for commenting! And to answer your question
1. For white parts the seam line will not be visible after sanding so you wouldn’t need to make your own putty.
2. To be honest, I have no idea why but it works. If you were to remove the seam normally, you would get a white line. The putty method will remove that. You can try and see the magic that happens. I’m sure there’s a scientific reason why, but unfortunately I’m not a scientist nor smart enough to understand
Would wiping away the excess paste when squeezing the pieces together affect the integrity of the drying process? Or do you have to let the excess be there and dry no matter what? I thought it could reduce the amount of sanding if you had less excess
You can imagine the excess as melted plastic that are welded together. Therefore, yes, you can indeed wipe off the excess paste and remove the excess sanding process.
The only problem I could foresee is when you remove the excess plastic you may melt other part of the surface and therefore require larger sanding area.
Question, would the empty bottle still be reusable after doing this? Is the sprue glue that we made easy to clean off the bottle? Or do people just buy a new bottle everytime lol
You can pour the excess into a paper towel, and let the bottle dry until you can peel it off. It should come off cleanly, which you can then rinse the bottle for reuse
Hello dude i hope you can answer this. But what is that point of melting sprue? To avoid discoloration when putting cement right? But on white it no need to melt right? Also much better to use extra thin?
When you melt spruce it offers few advantages.
1. It creates a plastic putty used for filling up gaps.
2. Using colored plastic will blend in with the plastic of the part nicely. But unnecessarily with white, which you are indeed correct.
3. Any thin plastic cement will do nicely.
Hope I answered them all!
I have a question: what is the area you sand using the 4000, 6000 and 8000 grit paper? is it only the area which you welded and sanded, or do you have to polish the entire piece? In other words, when you are done polishing, will the welded area have the same finish as the rest of the model, or will there be a noticable difference from the finish out of the box?
You go to 8000 grit to get the same polish or finish as the rest of the plastic. Therefore you only need to polish the welded areas.
However, you can actually stop at 4000 or lower if you apply a top coat.
@@i.r.o.4456 thank you!
Is the putty useable for making new parts (I mean like adding to a plastic sheet)?
Yes but it’s difficult to sculpt or mold the putty to make new parts in my experience. It is possible so give a try
Don't have the extra thin cement but does this work with Mr Cement S?
Yep, any plastic cement that’s water like in consistency
what if lets say i dont have a extra thin cement, can i use any alternative? also will this work the same with Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting?
Definitely. As long as you have plastic melting solution, any other alternative would work.
Fantastic video
Thank you :3
is this possible for metallic colored plastics?
This is only possible for colored plastic and not for anything where the plastic has coating. Therefore if the plastic is metallic colored, then yes it should work.
I may be horribly wrong though since I have never tried metallic plastic.
One question, this is the method for those who don't paint, right?
Yes. For colored plastic only. Not for coated plastics
How long does the plastic paste last before being difficult to pick up with a brush?
In a secure bottle with a very thinned paste, it should last couple months. A thicker paste would be shorter.
@@i.r.o.4456 So it won't dry during active use? That's what I'm taking away, correct?
It would dry while active use, as in while it is exposed to the air.
Hey Boss. Great Video. It works like a charm. However I have a question and what do I do with the remaining Dissolve plastic. I only have the 1 glass and I need it to melt down some more plastic in different colors. Mind telling me how to Dispose of it? thanks!
To throw away the remaining content, throw most away in a trash and let the container dry in an open ventilated area. Once completely dry, you should be able to peel the remaining content off, wipe off with dry paper towel if necessary, and rinse the container. Never dump any content into the sink and always throw it away in trash.
Hope this helps!
@@i.r.o.4456 Thank you!!!
Would the Result be noticeable if i settle on 600-800-1500 until 4000 grit only? i don't have finer sponge than that lol
any sanding material would work great! I go in increment to make the scratches less noticeable, but it should be fine
How do you clean the mixing jar after the fact?
Usually I let it naturally dry with the lid open. Once the liquid inside is solid enough, I peel off the crud and throw it in the trash.
VERY helpful, thanks!
You're welcome!
Hi I.R.O., great vid. Will this work with acetone instead of liquid cement?
I honestly wouldn’t know since I’ve only experimented with Mr. hobby tool cleaner and tamiya air brush cleaner.
However, if the plastic melts then it should work with acetone as well. Good luck!
just watched this one and the previous for the white part, very simple yet useful tips for gunpla beginner as me. Quick one question, is this Thin Cement can be used as glue as well, e.g. for sticking pla plate? thanks
Absolutely yes!
We toss the little glass jar after? Is it reusable or no?
The glass jar is reusable. If you wish to reuse the jar, empty the content into a trash bin, keep the lid open and let the jar sit outside to let the remaining content dry out. Once the content is dry, you can peel it off and clean the jar.
@@i.r.o.4456 Hello IRO, I might be asking a stupid question, but is there a good way to clean the brush after the cement paste application? Many thanks!
In my experience not really. You can use tool cleaners from Mr. Hobby or tamiya, but you would still have gunk left on the brush. After multiple failures, I would suggest using old brushes or toothpick as alternative now.
@@i.r.o.4456 Thank you so much for your reply! Yes, I definitely need to dig in my drawer and find some used old brushes for the paste application.
What's the difference in using a thin cement vs normal Tamiya when making this putty?
I used normal cement and it seems to have discolored the plastic quite noticably (thankfully only have tried this on my pokepla and not a real kit yet)
Mostly the consistency of the putty, but the normal cement tends to be stronger in solution, so like you said it might discolor the plastic a little bit
@@i.r.o.4456 ahhh speghetti. Ran down to USA Gundam and picked up a bottle of extra thin and the attack pika to try out it out on
Mind blown
I too was mind blown when I found this technique
i feel like this is super obvious but i just want to make sure
u dont have to make colored cement if u plan on painting the model, correct?
Yep. Sometimes it’s not obvious so don’t shy away from asking.
Okay, I’ve tried all these seam line removal techniques, but where they lose me is squeezing the parts together and making the plastic gush out. I have both thick and thin Tamiya cement, and yet I can’t get this to happen using either of them. I swear to god, assembling bootlegs takes less force than I’m applying here.
What the hell am I doing wrong?
That is an interesting dilemma. I recommend the thin cement since it would pour into the seam better. When you squeeze it out, that is gushing out the excess cement as well as the melted plastic.
Therefore if you aren’t seeing the excess squeezed out, maybe little cement was applied to the plastic, or the parts are already welded and you just need to sand the parts.
If you would like to, then let me know further if anything changes or it still doesn’t work.
@ Huh. It’s probable I’m just being too conservative on my cement application. I am definitely the kind of guy who thinks less is more. Thanks for the input.
Why do you have go through different grits of sandpaper?
Is it alright if you go with 400 and then just finish with something like 4000?
Yes and no. You can indeed go with 400 and finish with 4000. However, 400 grit usually leaves a rough mark on the surface, so I use different grit to ease the roughness
@@i.r.o.4456 heyas sorry for the necrobump but when is usually the time to change grits when sanding something?
That is a difficult question, since most of the time it's when you feel you’ve sanded enough
For lower grits, you sand it enough until you’ve removed the nub mark and the surface is flat.
For higher grits, I would usually sand back and forth 6 times and check the surface to see if there’s less scratches.
Sorry if this won’t help
Oh its alright those are good things to keep in mind in thanks!
thank you so much! God bless man I really appreciate it. Hope you are growing and knowing the Lord Jesus. May your days be many and fruitful.
Thank you so much! I hope you have a wonderful days as well. Happy new year
I’m assuming this doesn’t work for clear plastics (transparent, colored or not), right?
Unfortunately not, or I don't know the proper method since I haven't had a successful attempt.
you guys saw the 800 supposed to be 8000
Oh I need to recheck that
Bro what the fuck this is so smart ?????????
I also learnt it from others. It is smart
When done, how do you clean out that bottle to use for another color? Or is it a one and done kind of thing?
I would let it air dry outside until the substance becomes hardened and easy to peel off, which then you would throw it out in the trash. Never the sink. Then you can rinse the bottles for reuse