Hi Igor, how far from the humble beginnings 3D Printing already moved away! Not only a huge menu of colors, but now we also have shiny, matte, rainbow, multicolor… and now “FAST” filament ❤
Great work as always Igor. I like the idea of non-petroleum based spools so not keen on plastic. Printed rings have worked well for me The manufacturer's could consider spools with plastic rims, or their own design of ring that clupsxsecurely in the filament retaining holes in the spool Or look for user designs that use those holes to make the ring as secure as possible. I tried "Hydra" style universal rings but they just didn't rotate back when the AMS rewound the spool so I went back to printed rings, of which I have a selection for different manufacturers.
Great video Igor! Just put a layer of electric tape or scotch tape at the edge of the cardboard spool and it works with the bambu ams, usually it's not a big issue in my case.
Regarding eSUN cardboard spools. You can tear the sides of the spool off and put the filament with the cardboard core on the original bambulab spool. Takes one minute to do, works perfectly fine. The inner core in eSUN spool even has the same cutout ;)
No longer works. They changed the diameter on new spools and now it's 4 mm less than Bambu spool. I was furiously mad when I teared off one side of the spool and found this of the sudden...
Use painters tape and wrap the spool then tear of one edge at a time and place it on a reusable bambu spool. There is a gap that will fit the notch on bambu spool. It works out perfectly or you can 3d print edges for the cardboard spools.
Yet another great video, Igor! Love your detailed analysis as always. Not related to this video but just a humble idea/request for an upcoming video: Could you do a test on best allround nozzles currently available? I have a Prusa XL (2 tool heads) and I've been considering which nozzle to upgrade to. Something that I could install and forget about no matter what filament I want to use. Something that can withstand all kind of filaments while also having great thermal conductivity. The best options seem to be full body tungsten carbide nozzles and then there is those very promising diamondback nozzles that even require you to lower to print temperature because they are so heat conductive. I would love to see a round up test done by you because you have pretty much the best in-depth comparisons on YT.
I wanted to test Boozle nozzle (Tungsten with channels similar to CHT), but currently they are out of stock everywhere. If I will find one on some store, I will buy it.
@@MyTechFun Funny that you mention it because I also wanted to get that one but couldn't since it's out of stock. There is another tungsten carbide nozzle I've been considering that has a very similar construction called "Deez nozzle" over at printy please store (UK) ... but it looks like it's not coated and there are no tests/reviews about it.
Recently ordered some white esun pla from amazon. Was very disappointed when the spool arrived half empty and not in a sealed bag. Amazon refunded me the full amount and let me keep the half roll. I dried what was left and the print came out really good. Just wish my first experience with esun wasn't what it was
Is this the filament now available as eSun PLA+HS, or ePLA-HS? I believe they're the same. It's what seems to be available now from 3D printing supply shops, instead of eSun's regular PLA+ which seems to be far less available in my country now, although it's still available in bulk 3kg rolls. On the products list on the roll it says they have eSun PLA+ still available but I can't find it to buy in 1 kg rolls, like how it used to be available.
great video thanks - I use esun pla plus for my surfboard fins - work really well unless you leave them in the car for a few weeks over summer, then they tend to break in the surf. On cardboard spools .. I read that they absorb moisture a lot easier , and perhaps transfer that h20 to the filament, . will try the pla plus at 240 (on ender 3 v3) , good idea, thanks.
hello, ive been watching some of your filament reviews and love the testing. ive recently bought some Eryone standard PLA and the white and silver that ive tried so far will not print well at all on my X1C. the first layer seems to be the most difficult to get down without adhesion, warping, blobbing, and small bits of extruded filament hanging out of the nozzle even after the cleaning cycle. theyve offered to replace them but ive bought 10 reels of different colours and dont really want another 10 reels of misery. have you tested there other filaments? are any ones better like PLA+ or Matte?
Interesting videos and love the different test methods. How fast is the Kingroon able to print? I don't think that the 100 mm/s is anything compared to the new breed of core x/y printers from Creality and Bambu that can print at speed from 300-500 mm/s. Not being critical of your video at all but just don't think the new speed filaments are made for this printer but rather the much higher speeds.
Too much cooling coud produce delaminations , (too much is my setup, i got two 5015 fans runing) , i use 30-40% fan power, but for the Creality i print some parts at 100% fans, no problems, for me
I was printing with Creality white Petg , very good , and then i change to this ones petg esun white hs and was not good at all , sooo i think is just propaganda Remeber , they want to sell, for me normal creality petg (white) was very good, printing big pices at 150mms@10.000 mm/s2 using klipper/bmg/volcano setup in a modified ender3, good luck😊
Sometimes I measured the hardness, but I am not sure is it also related with sharpness or wearing resistance. With metal, it would be it. But yes, the PolyCarbonate is the hardest filament I tested so far. I am preparing a wearing resistance test to check this.
you should try to make some knife blades and see which one can be made the sharpest. More and more people are building plastic knifes. Because they cant be detected and people want to be able to defend themselfs. There aare also knifes sold by brands like coldsteel, they have very good plastic materials, i think its called gfx or something like that, but you cant buy it as a filament.-I think serrated blades would be the way to go with a plastic knifes. I would like to try some designs, when i have found the right filament. @@MyTechFun
Odd video. You're not testing the filaments correctly at the start because your printer isn't set up right. I would've started the whole project/testing again from that point.
Hi Igor, how far from the humble beginnings 3D Printing already moved away! Not only a huge menu of colors, but now we also have shiny, matte, rainbow, multicolor… and now “FAST” filament ❤
Great work as always Igor.
I like the idea of non-petroleum based spools so not keen on plastic.
Printed rings have worked well for me
The manufacturer's could consider spools with plastic rims, or their own design of ring that clupsxsecurely in the filament retaining holes in the spool
Or look for user designs that use those holes to make the ring as secure as possible.
I tried "Hydra" style universal rings but they just didn't rotate back when the AMS rewound the spool so I went back to printed rings, of which I have a selection for different manufacturers.
Great video Igor! Just put a layer of electric tape or scotch tape at the edge of the cardboard spool and it works with the bambu ams, usually it's not a big issue in my case.
Good tip, thank you
Or just print spool rings! Doesn't take long and you can reuse
Regarding eSUN cardboard spools. You can tear the sides of the spool off and put the filament with the cardboard core on the original bambulab spool. Takes one minute to do, works perfectly fine. The inner core in eSUN spool even has the same cutout ;)
No longer works. They changed the diameter on new spools and now it's 4 mm less than Bambu spool. I was furiously mad when I teared off one side of the spool and found this of the sudden...
Use painters tape and wrap the spool then tear of one edge at a time and place it on a reusable bambu spool. There is a gap that will fit the notch on bambu spool. It works out perfectly or you can 3d print edges for the cardboard spools.
Yet another great video, Igor! Love your detailed analysis as always. Not related to this video but just a humble idea/request for an upcoming video: Could you do a test on best allround nozzles currently available? I have a Prusa XL (2 tool heads) and I've been considering which nozzle to upgrade to. Something that I could install and forget about no matter what filament I want to use. Something that can withstand all kind of filaments while also having great thermal conductivity. The best options seem to be full body tungsten carbide nozzles and then there is those very promising diamondback nozzles that even require you to lower to print temperature because they are so heat conductive. I would love to see a round up test done by you because you have pretty much the best in-depth comparisons on YT.
I wanted to test Boozle nozzle (Tungsten with channels similar to CHT), but currently they are out of stock everywhere. If I will find one on some store, I will buy it.
@@MyTechFun Funny that you mention it because I also wanted to get that one but couldn't since it's out of stock. There is another tungsten carbide nozzle I've been considering that has a very similar construction called "Deez nozzle" over at printy please store (UK) ... but it looks like it's not coated and there are no tests/reviews about it.
Recently ordered some white esun pla from amazon. Was very disappointed when the spool arrived half empty and not in a sealed bag. Amazon refunded me the full amount and let me keep the half roll. I dried what was left and the print came out really good. Just wish my first experience with esun wasn't what it was
Hello, It is very interesting video. I am curios what will be with 230 and 240 deg without change any thing else...
That is my method so far (for example with FLSUN SR, one of the first fast printers I got)
Is this the filament now available as eSun PLA+HS, or ePLA-HS? I believe they're the same. It's what seems to be available now from 3D printing supply shops, instead of eSun's regular PLA+ which seems to be far less available in my country now, although it's still available in bulk 3kg rolls. On the products list on the roll it says they have eSun PLA+ still available but I can't find it to buy in 1 kg rolls, like how it used to be available.
great video thanks - I use esun pla plus for my surfboard fins - work really well unless you leave them in the car for a few weeks over summer, then they tend to break in the surf. On cardboard spools .. I read that they absorb moisture a lot easier , and perhaps transfer that h20 to the filament, . will try the pla plus at 240 (on ender 3 v3) , good idea, thanks.
Maybe Esun should sell its fast filament ready to go onto the spare bambu spool!
Now it can go to A1 AMS lite :-)
hello, ive been watching some of your filament reviews and love the testing. ive recently bought some Eryone standard PLA and the white and silver that ive tried so far will not print well at all on my X1C. the first layer seems to be the most difficult to get down without adhesion, warping, blobbing, and small bits of extruded filament hanging out of the nozzle even after the cleaning cycle. theyve offered to replace them but ive bought 10 reels of different colours and dont really want another 10 reels of misery. have you tested there other filaments? are any ones better like PLA+ or Matte?
Interesting videos and love the different test methods. How fast is the Kingroon able to print? I don't think that the 100 mm/s is anything compared to the new breed of core x/y printers from Creality and Bambu that can print at speed from 300-500 mm/s. Not being critical of your video at all but just don't think the new speed filaments are made for this printer but rather the much higher speeds.
Did esun also change the grey color of pla hs?
Great work!
thank you
Too much cooling coud produce delaminations , (too much is my setup, i got two 5015 fans runing) , i use 30-40% fan power, but for the Creality i print some parts at 100% fans, no problems, for me
Wow , i got the same silicon surface yuo put in the oven, funny😊
I was printing with Creality white Petg , very good , and then i change to this ones petg esun white hs and was not good at all , sooo i think is just propaganda
Remeber , they want to sell, for me normal creality petg (white) was very good, printing big pices at 150mms@10.000 mm/s2 using klipper/bmg/volcano setup in a modified ender3, good luck😊
hello Igor...which would be the best filament for making a knifeblade and get it as sharp as possible? polycarbonate maybe?
Sometimes I measured the hardness, but I am not sure is it also related with sharpness or wearing resistance. With metal, it would be it. But yes, the PolyCarbonate is the hardest filament I tested so far. I am preparing a wearing resistance test to check this.
you should try to make some knife blades and see which one can be made the sharpest. More and more people are building plastic knifes. Because they cant be detected and people want to be able to defend themselfs. There aare also knifes sold by brands like coldsteel, they have very good plastic materials, i think its called gfx or something like that, but you cant buy it as a filament.-I think serrated blades would be the way to go with a plastic knifes. I would like to try some designs, when i have found the right filament.
@@MyTechFun
Odd video. You're not testing the filaments correctly at the start because your printer isn't set up right. I would've started the whole project/testing again from that point.