Thanks so much for mentioning my OSSC repository, Bob! That looks to be an old version of the site, so everyone please be sure to hit refresh on your browser to make sure you're seeing the latest content when viewing that page. I also had to make a few minor corrections to some of the text files, and again those require a browser refresh to force the updated information to load into your browser. I'll be adding many more profiles in the ensuing next couple weeks. And ultimately ALL of the PC Engine profiles will be added once my SSDS3 gets shipped and arrives in the mail. Cheers!
HOLY SHIT - RGB/HDMI C64? The collection of classic PAL games is quite astonishing, really. Turrican I and II, Creatures, Mayhem in Monsterland, Sam's Journey (2018 release), Great Giana Sisters, The Last Ninja, Armalyte and thousands more. R-Type's soundtrack is everything. Very interested to follow developments now. Thanks!
The dust covers are good quality (I ordered a few in the past); shame there's a number not available yet (NT Mini, PC Engine Duo-R, Victor Saturn, Silver PS2 Fat).
I question whether there's been enough happening in the world of retro gaming to actually create a 20-30 video every week. And yet you manage to do it. well done.
Thanks for mentioning the Everdrive FW! I've found that it resolves the video corruption/artifact issue that occurs when using it with the AVS loaded with the latest AVS firmware. Finally I can use palettes and interpolation!
White vinyl eraser, Electronic CRC Contact Cleaner, and Deoxit are my go to for cleaning contacts. I often see people recommend Weimans cooking cleaner as well, which has the same problem as brasso. You need to know how to use it and when (which is super rare, out of 200+ games only had 1). Often times when you see rust/tarnish/corrosion it is usually only a few specific pins. In my opinion, I find it better to use a fiber glass pen to spot treat those specific pins than spray all that stuff everywhere and ruining good pins potentially.
A shorty but a goody--also, where were YOU when #BrassoGate happened? Never forget, never forgive--it's something you're going to want to tell your children someday, and your children's children, and so on, and so on.
Bruh people have been arguing about this for years. I've been threatened to be banned from forums for using Brasso. But I understand it, because I've bought games from eBay before, cracked them open, and there was white shit all over the board and the pins. People don't know you have to clean the residue off.
accaris yes that right there is the heart of the issue, misinformation and improper use. Brasso is an effective (and safe if used properly and cleaned off after) option for getting terribly dirty and oxidized cartridge pins clean when you have exhausted all other cleaning options unsuccessfully. Also, it should NEVER be used more than once on a particular game. That said, these days I have resorted to just not recommending it anymore since I too have seen games that were improperly cleaned with Brasso.
My opinion is you're still taking a risk even if you think you're completely cleaning the Brasso off the cart. There's always going to be some residue left behind in crevices and pits of the contacts, and if you cycle that cart a few dozen times in a console, you'll likely be able to smell Brasso residue in your console! It's just not worth the risk, even if the cart itself doesn't respond to other methods of cleaning.
It's the only method I trust to completely remove tarnish and keep it away. The first game I cleaned with Brasso was my personal childhood copy of Zelda 2, which I cleaned in 2013. Nearly five years later, carefully stored, I've noticed no further degradation of the contacts. Removing residue with alcohol and a lint-free micro-fiber cloth (not a Q-tip,) I've definitely never smelled Brasso residue in my consoles or games. What will the games look like in 10, or 20 years? Well obviously tarnish will return; there's no way to prevent that, not with brass pins, unless you hermetically seal the games in an oxygen-free environment. All cartridge games have finite lives. I'm not convinced that properly used Brasso will shorten those lives.
You're still gambling using that stuff. I guarantee you I could have gotten that game clean using the usual approach of a 2-inch pink eraser and 99% IPA. No residue to worry about cross-contaminating anything. Like Bod said, 99.9% of games can be restored with such a simple approach. If a game is so bad off that you even think about using Brasso, there are still safer methods out there.
I actually have zero problems with the SF30 pro d-pad; however, the classic SF30 I bought had the problem with the diagonals. I also use the SF30 Pro for just about all instances that I need a gamepad for since you can hook it up to just about anything.
The Ultimate-64 (FPGA c64) is by the same developer that made the ultimate 1541 cartridges. The initial boards were made available to people who joined the wishlist and then placed orders when a limited amount were made available. In the future I'm sure that more will be made as any minor quirks are resolved. There is already work on a replacement c64 keyboard: www.breadbox64.com/blog/c64-keyboard-prototype/ Also pi1541 was recently released, a cycle exact comodore 1541 disk drive emulator for raspberry pi cbm-pi1541.firebaseapp.com/
Love the nomad it has good rgb right out of the box but you're right the screen is terrible maybe there is someone who could make a better screen for the ultimate package cough cough mcwill cough cough
I don't think the ZisWorks creator was anti-gaming, he probably just didn't want to pigeonhole himself into being primarily focused on that. The real revenue for him in that LCD product is for labs, engineering and scientific use, who will happily pay what he asks using someone else's money and love it, and not be as price sensitive as a gaming consumer would.
I got the impression that he didn't want hundreds of gamers buying this and not know what they're getting them selves into as far as the mod work goes.
What really pisses me off about cleaning games is people sanding the contacts. I have acquired so many games over the last 2 years and I have quite a few that obviously had the crap sanded out of them. All I can do with that is scrub with IPA and hope they last.
Bob thanks, looking forward to seeing the cleaning video. I don’t know if you have any Famicom cartridges, do you have a good way to open them? I had one cartridge that was so dirty I had to open it up but broke the plastic pins holding the case together.
I hate to be "that guy" but 8bitdo is pronounced "Dough" at the end, not "Due", just like the way you pronounce Nintendo with a hard "o" sound rather than a "u"-ish one. They based their name on Nintendo itself.
I think Bob knows this (and has definitely pronounced it correctly before) - he's probably stopped giving a shit (like almost everyone else at this point).
I don't blame him. It's completely dumb and unnatural to suddenly switch pronunciations halfway through a word. And to me, "do" pronounced as "duu" makes more sense anyway, because you're "doing" (playing) 8-bit games.
Can we talk about how freaking pointless console dust covers are? So... why would you use one? Cus dusty consoles look messy? Well.. dust covers still gather dust on them. So until you get round to dusting, you have a choice between a dusty console or a console wearing a dusty dust cover... Either way it looks messy. On the other hand, if the real reason is to protect the cartridge slot (for those consoles that lack plastic tabs), then that's more reasonable, but did you not consider just leaving a cartridge in the slot (perhaps an everdrive)? Or maybe someone could manufacture dummy cartridges for this purpose.
I dunno, might be worth it for my Xbox 360 Slim which is set horizontally. I've tried setting a book on the vent to block dust, but then I forgot the book was on the console when I turned it on... and played it for like an hour. :/ The 360 didn't give me any overheating messages, but I probably took years off the console's life anyway...
Thanks so much for mentioning my OSSC repository, Bob! That looks to be an old version of the site, so everyone please be sure to hit refresh on your browser to make sure you're seeing the latest content when viewing that page. I also had to make a few minor corrections to some of the text files, and again those require a browser refresh to force the updated information to load into your browser. I'll be adding many more profiles in the ensuing next couple weeks. And ultimately ALL of the PC Engine profiles will be added once my SSDS3 gets shipped and arrives in the mail. Cheers!
Your weekly roundups are just amazing. Thanks for producing them again!
Thanks for plug! Awesome show :D
Nut sack volume 2 on Blu-Ray! Bob's greatest Patreon giveaway ever!
wow those covers are amazing and just what I needed, thanks for posting it!
HOLY SHIT - RGB/HDMI C64? The collection of classic PAL games is quite astonishing, really. Turrican I and II, Creatures, Mayhem in Monsterland, Sam's Journey (2018 release), Great Giana Sisters, The Last Ninja, Armalyte and thousands more. R-Type's soundtrack is everything. Very interested to follow developments now. Thanks!
The dust covers are good quality (I ordered a few in the past); shame there's a number not available yet (NT Mini, PC Engine Duo-R, Victor Saturn, Silver PS2 Fat).
After you get into the Commodore 64 stuff you need to try Amiga. It was the ultimate retro gaming computer
I question whether there's been enough happening in the world of retro gaming to actually create a 20-30 video every week. And yet you manage to do it. well done.
Thanks for mentioning the Everdrive FW! I've found that it resolves the video corruption/artifact issue that occurs when using it with the AVS loaded with the latest AVS firmware. Finally I can use palettes and interpolation!
White vinyl eraser, Electronic CRC Contact Cleaner, and Deoxit are my go to for cleaning contacts. I often see people recommend Weimans cooking cleaner as well, which has the same problem as brasso. You need to know how to use it and when (which is super rare, out of 200+ games only had 1). Often times when you see rust/tarnish/corrosion it is usually only a few specific pins. In my opinion, I find it better to use a fiber glass pen to spot treat those specific pins than spray all that stuff everywhere and ruining good pins potentially.
A shorty but a goody--also, where were YOU when #BrassoGate happened? Never forget, never forgive--it's something you're going to want to tell your children someday, and your children's children, and so on, and so on.
Bruh people have been arguing about this for years. I've been threatened to be banned from forums for using Brasso. But I understand it, because I've bought games from eBay before, cracked them open, and there was white shit all over the board and the pins. People don't know you have to clean the residue off.
accaris yes that right there is the heart of the issue, misinformation and improper use. Brasso is an effective (and safe if used properly and cleaned off after) option for getting terribly dirty and oxidized cartridge pins clean when you have exhausted all other cleaning options unsuccessfully. Also, it should NEVER be used more than once on a particular game. That said, these days I have resorted to just not recommending it anymore since I too have seen games that were improperly cleaned with Brasso.
My opinion is you're still taking a risk even if you think you're completely cleaning the Brasso off the cart. There's always going to be some residue left behind in crevices and pits of the contacts, and if you cycle that cart a few dozen times in a console, you'll likely be able to smell Brasso residue in your console! It's just not worth the risk, even if the cart itself doesn't respond to other methods of cleaning.
It's the only method I trust to completely remove tarnish and keep it away. The first game I cleaned with Brasso was my personal childhood copy of Zelda 2, which I cleaned in 2013. Nearly five years later, carefully stored, I've noticed no further degradation of the contacts. Removing residue with alcohol and a lint-free micro-fiber cloth (not a Q-tip,) I've definitely never smelled Brasso residue in my consoles or games. What will the games look like in 10, or 20 years? Well obviously tarnish will return; there's no way to prevent that, not with brass pins, unless you hermetically seal the games in an oxygen-free environment. All cartridge games have finite lives. I'm not convinced that properly used Brasso will shorten those lives.
You're still gambling using that stuff. I guarantee you I could have gotten that game clean using the usual approach of a 2-inch pink eraser and 99% IPA. No residue to worry about cross-contaminating anything. Like Bod said, 99.9% of games can be restored with such a simple approach. If a game is so bad off that you even think about using Brasso, there are still safer methods out there.
I actually have zero problems with the SF30 pro d-pad; however, the classic SF30 I bought had the problem with the diagonals. I also use the SF30 Pro for just about all instances that I need a gamepad for since you can hook it up to just about anything.
Just noticed you're back. Welcome back. I have to be honest though, I'm gonna miss thumb bob.
Great stuff Bob. Appreciate it
Great job addressing the whole Brasso deal. I also think people from both sides overreacted. Still an important topic to cover, IMO.
The Ultimate-64 (FPGA c64) is by the same developer that made the ultimate 1541 cartridges. The initial boards were made available to people who joined the wishlist and then placed orders when a limited amount were made available. In the future I'm sure that more will be made as any minor quirks are resolved.
There is already work on a replacement c64 keyboard: www.breadbox64.com/blog/c64-keyboard-prototype/
Also pi1541 was recently released, a cycle exact comodore 1541 disk drive emulator for raspberry pi cbm-pi1541.firebaseapp.com/
That wasn’t sticker goo... 💦💦
Love the nomad it has good rgb right out of the box but you're right the screen is terrible maybe there is someone who could make a better screen for the ultimate package cough cough mcwill cough cough
I don't think the ZisWorks creator was anti-gaming, he probably just didn't want to pigeonhole himself into being primarily focused on that. The real revenue for him in that LCD product is for labs, engineering and scientific use, who will happily pay what he asks using someone else's money and love it, and not be as price sensitive as a gaming consumer would.
I got the impression that he didn't want hundreds of gamers buying this and not know what they're getting them selves into as far as the mod work goes.
Thanks as always!
What really pisses me off about cleaning games is people sanding the contacts. I have acquired so many games over the last 2 years and I have quite a few that obviously had the crap sanded out of them. All I can do with that is scrub with IPA and hope they last.
Bob thanks, looking forward to seeing the cleaning video. I don’t know if you have any Famicom cartridges, do you have a good way to open them? I had one cartridge that was so dirty I had to open it up but broke the plastic pins holding the case together.
any plans on that CRT RGB modding tutorial?
My eraser is blue; will cleaning with it still work?
Any plans for going to Too Many Games, or AVGC this year?
I hate to be "that guy" but 8bitdo is pronounced "Dough" at the end, not "Due", just like the way you pronounce Nintendo with a hard "o" sound rather than a "u"-ish one. They based their name on Nintendo itself.
You mean it's not pronounced "Niin-ten-duu"?
I think Bob knows this (and has definitely pronounced it correctly before) - he's probably stopped giving a shit (like almost everyone else at this point).
I don't blame him. It's completely dumb and unnatural to suddenly switch pronunciations halfway through a word. And to me, "do" pronounced as "duu" makes more sense anyway, because you're "doing" (playing) 8-bit games.
Justin Sison I guess I’ll start pronouncing Bob’s name as “Boob” and Justin as “Joostin” then. Thanks for the tips about not giving a damn.
Does the OSSC still have issues with SNES and NES? Mine are very finicky and I have heard of others having similar issues.
Do you have OSSC 1.6 with the latest firmware?
lol 07:55 "a famous youtuber". if it was any other youtuber we all know you would want to call them out by name.
dangit norm
Can we talk about how freaking pointless console dust covers are? So... why would you use one? Cus dusty consoles look messy? Well.. dust covers still gather dust on them. So until you get round to dusting, you have a choice between a dusty console or a console wearing a dusty dust cover... Either way it looks messy.
On the other hand, if the real reason is to protect the cartridge slot (for those consoles that lack plastic tabs), then that's more reasonable, but did you not consider just leaving a cartridge in the slot (perhaps an everdrive)? Or maybe someone could manufacture dummy cartridges for this purpose.
I dunno, might be worth it for my Xbox 360 Slim which is set horizontally. I've tried setting a book on the vent to block dust, but then I forgot the book was on the console when I turned it on... and played it for like an hour. :/
The 360 didn't give me any overheating messages, but I probably took years off the console's life anyway...
Everyone stop whatever the fuck you're doing and go watch Deadpool 2 NOW! Film of the year, if not 2 years!
here's a racer people here might enjoy (not 3d but super scaler) ua-cam.com/video/3hPIf7ui1Do/v-deo.html