Boy, I was surprised to see your face after the repair. Your voice is so youthful haha. Thanks for the lesson,a great guide. Greatly appreciated, now I know what to do with my SA-508 should I have some time over. The 508 is a great piece of gear, so musical and I would hate myself for not taking care of it before anything serious irreparable happens
The new filter capacitors have a low ESR rating but still have 1.9% voltage loss! It's definitely better than the old ones but still a bit leaky.. the goal for the case of power supply filter capacitors is low ESR value but also low voltage loss... Because high ESR capacitors will struggle with removing voltage ripple but high voltage loss is like a short circuit so the higher the percentage, the harder the transformer has to work! The Voltage loss figure is more important than ESR! High ESR will only give you bad sound but high voltage loss will kill the transformer or anything else that comes after a Capacitor! Most people don't realise how important that voltage loss figure is... Imagine needing a new transformer! You can't get a new one! The only way out of it is to rewind the transformer, if you can do it yourself, great! But if you can't! Good luck, it's not going to be cheap... So the moral of the story is, keep an eye out for high voltage loss levels!
I wonder if the third pin on the power supply filter capacitors is connected to the Capacitor case? It was connected to a third trace and it looks like it goes back to the transformer? Possibly a ground?
I have a pioneer sa-5800, looks identical internally and externally. The left channels of both A and B are not working. The right sides do work. the illuminated section that shows how loud the music is only lights up the right channel unless I turn the knob all the way up, then the left channel will illuminate slightly but still no sound out of that side. All the caps and resistors look ok visually. There's one fuse in the headphone section that needs replacing but all the others look ok. Any tips where to start troubleshooting? I'd really like to get this thing working again.
Yes, would definitely go for it. You might read in some forums that it is plain stupid to do a capacitor replacement on an old HiFi device unless its broken. But my experience is, that they will fail anyway if you don't and they always far enough out of spec to impact performance in the one or another way.
@@ClassicHiFiReviews In my case, although they were still working and the rails measured still okay-ish, I replaced all the caps. And surprise surprise, it did make a big difference. I am using it only for headphones.
@@ClassicHiFiReviews Hello friend, greetings, a question that would happen if a power or an amplifier that comes with 4 capacitors of 100 volts 3300 uf is replaced by the 4 but for 100 volts 6800 uf
@@gabrielr4270 You can do it BUT if you go a longer time in the "party mode" there is a SMALL chance to grill the transformer ... + 2000yF is max to stay in the specs ...
*Good day sir, i have one sa 508 which does not turn on..o can hear the transformator going on. The blue vu meters arent going on and all i can hear when speakers are connected is occasionally a loud popping noise when volume is fully turned to max and low. Could be that capacitors on power board are bad or what should be the problem? Thanks in advance sir
Nice videos. I have a same amplifier, but the sound output is different between left and right channel. The right channel is louder than the left one, especially the bass is notably different. Any idea why? Thanks
Ciao complimenti per i video, io ho un Pioneer sa508, con il transistor nec b705a danneggiato, non trovo l'originale, come potrei sostituirlo, grazie per l'aiuto
wd40 for the cap glue, it should break it up. have a 96 pioneer amp id like to freshen up, two big caps fine...then i saw the...roughly 400 other lilttle caps all over it 😂🤦 i understand most will be non audio function..but those woukd also need doing i guess, theyre the leaky types. nightmare
That probably deserves a seperate episode. Its not hard to pick the "right ones". Just a few things to consider and ground rules to follow. But in short, every new electrolytic capacitor is better than whats currently in an old device. There are no real audible differences between brands. I would just make sure that the capacitors can take 105 C temperature and that the voltage is ideally slightly higher than original (e.g. replace 16v better with 25v). Just be moderate with the extra voltage. If you use e.g. 100v instead of 10v you might run into space issues. Significantly higher voltage will give you a physically bigger capacitor.
@@ClassicHiFiReviews Thanks for your reply. I think i go play with it. If i can find the right caps maybe i'm confident enough to start with it.First i go offer a broken amp to get the hang on it ::-) I will let you know if it worked for me. Thanks!
@@ClassicHiFiReviews HI ! The 105°C does not mean the cap can "take" 105°C, it means his LIFETIME was be tested on 105°C (3000 hours). Greets from a "Wangine" maniac in Germany, stay safe.
@@bassieadriaan4278 : Its good to go on 63 Volt types AND go 2000 yF higher if you can find them. The 2000 yF higher gives more power for the low tones AND helps against CLIPPING ! Do not go over +4000yF because you can damage the transformer ... Greets from Germany, stay safe.
9:45 you putting a diffierent value capacitor there and you seem surprised that it's bulging. Bravo. I don't really understand why you din't put the same value capacitor there? Shame that guys like you destroying these good old equipment just because you swapping out parts without any logic. And what kind of WD-40 do you use? Because there are stuff meant to use for switches, some other things for potentiometers, etc. Regular WD-40 can cause problems later. WD-40 has a special version "contact" that is meant for switches. Overall, it was a bit of bain wwatching this "restoration". Don't do this man....
Really don't understand whats your problem? WD40 is used to address the sticky grease on the shaft of the switch. For contact cleanining I don't use WD40 at all. There are better "brands" for that purpose. Depending on switch type/purpose either contact cleaner with a level of lubrication is used or (and thats in most cases) contact cleaner that does not leave ANY residue at all. Random parts wered not replaced without reasons - hint is that you just watched a recapping video. Capacitors were replaced and most of them were far out of spec.
he says in the vid, you cant buy them anymore. and ive seen a million comments in the last few days that say using larger values causes no problems. lower is bad,,it didnt sit right with me either, thats a wild guess, you dont know the balance of the charge discharge circuits..which would be important i think..
Jeezzz, a few minutes into this video and I'm off. Don't do this! ou are destroying these beautiful pieces of audio equipment. DW40 and in what quantity!!! And the manner of applying!!! Damn! And when I saw how you pull Caps out with the plyers. Man, please, do not do it like that!!! I would not give you anything for restoring, service and repair.
@@TomKappeln Geee man, don't pull your hair out! I did NOT say WD-40 will destroy something. I said - you were doing it in a destroying" manner. Anyway, yes, WD-40 leaves residue. Where is necessary or desirable - OK. Where it isn't - not so OK! WD-40, if applied somewhere in not so desirable place, will leave residue which can potentially make a problem some time in the future. Every chemical has it's place. Anyway, have in mind people are actually watching these and in 8 out of 10 videos wrongful guidance leads to destroying these engineering marvels. Do it your way. Who cares. My post was more of reaction how it hurts seeing people (like you, sorry) handle these gems in a wrong way on some places.
@@TomKappeln Hey Tom, I am sorry, I wrongfully talked to you like you were the original poster and video creator. Sorry for that! Anyway, I was making an observation to the OP. And his Cap replacement just like that... Hehe, placed the Cap, wrong value, started bulging. :-) UH, anyway, my thoughts stys the same, regardless of poster being him or you.
Boy, I was surprised to see your face after the repair. Your voice is so youthful haha. Thanks for the lesson,a great guide. Greatly appreciated, now I know what to do with my SA-508 should I have some time over. The 508 is a great piece of gear, so musical and I would hate myself for not taking care of it before anything serious irreparable happens
Thank you so much!!! mine is about to be fixed soon too..I love this Amplifiers look and cant wait to use it soon😸👌🏁
These are amazing amps and love the look of Pioneer's Blue Line.
Great job & beautiful amp!
The new filter capacitors have a low ESR rating but still have 1.9% voltage loss! It's definitely better than the old ones but still a bit leaky.. the goal for the case of power supply filter capacitors is low ESR value but also low voltage loss... Because high ESR capacitors will struggle with removing voltage ripple but high voltage loss is like a short circuit so the higher the percentage, the harder the transformer has to work!
The Voltage loss figure is more important than ESR! High ESR will only give you bad sound but high voltage loss will kill the transformer or anything else that comes after a Capacitor!
Most people don't realise how important that voltage loss figure is... Imagine needing a new transformer! You can't get a new one! The only way out of it is to rewind the transformer, if you can do it yourself, great! But if you can't! Good luck, it's not going to be cheap...
So the moral of the story is, keep an eye out for high voltage loss levels!
Thanks Peter! Good point and great comment.
nice job on that restoration.
I wonder if the third pin on the power supply filter capacitors is connected to the Capacitor case? It was connected to a third trace and it looks like it goes back to the transformer? Possibly a ground?
I have a pioneer sa 408 amplifier, it has two 35v 4700uf capacitors, it can be exchanged for other 63v 6800uf
I have a pioneer sa-5800, looks identical internally and externally. The left channels of both A and B are not working. The right sides do work. the illuminated section that shows how loud the music is only lights up the right channel unless I turn the knob all the way up, then the left channel will illuminate slightly but still no sound out of that side. All the caps and resistors look ok visually. There's one fuse in the headphone section that needs replacing but all the others look ok. Any tips where to start troubleshooting? I'd really like to get this thing working again.
Thanx, thinking on replacing on my SA-608
Yes, would definitely go for it. You might read in some forums that it is plain stupid to do a capacitor replacement on an old HiFi device unless its broken. But my experience is, that they will fail anyway if you don't and they always far enough out of spec to impact performance in the one or another way.
@@ClassicHiFiReviews yep i agree
@@ClassicHiFiReviews In my case, although they were still working and the rails measured still okay-ish, I replaced all the caps. And surprise surprise, it did make a big difference. I am using it only for headphones.
@@ClassicHiFiReviews Hello friend, greetings, a question that would happen if a power or an amplifier that comes with 4 capacitors of 100 volts 3300 uf is replaced by the 4 but for 100 volts 6800 uf
@@gabrielr4270 You can do it BUT if you go a longer time in the "party mode" there is a SMALL chance to grill the transformer ...
+ 2000yF is max to stay in the specs ...
*Good day sir, i have one sa 508 which does not turn on..o can hear the transformator going on. The blue vu meters arent going on and all i can hear when speakers are connected is occasionally a loud popping noise when volume is fully turned to max and low.
Could be that capacitors on power board are bad or what should be the problem?
Thanks in advance sir
Nice videos. I have a same amplifier, but the sound output is different between left and right channel. The right channel is louder than the left one, especially the bass is notably different. Any idea why? Thanks
Great job,!! What do you recommend to fix the potentiometers and remove the noise?
deoxit seems popular
Could you (or anyone else) please make a list of which capacitors you should buy to recap this amp?
its an old amp. look up the user manual, it will have all those parts listed after the ciircuit diagrams.
Hola! Tengo el mío pero no emite sonido en ninguna salida. Que podría ser el problema,
Ciao complimenti per i video, io ho un Pioneer sa508, con il transistor nec b705a danneggiato, non trovo l'originale, come potrei sostituirlo, grazie per l'aiuto
Scusa Pioneer sa608
Tengo una igual como problema de diodos que podría ser, porfa sería de gran ayuda
wd40 for the cap glue, it should break it up.
have a 96 pioneer amp id like to freshen up, two big caps fine...then i saw the...roughly 400 other lilttle caps all over it 😂🤦 i understand most will be non audio function..but those woukd also need doing i guess, theyre the leaky types. nightmare
I want to recap my 508 too. I have no experience with it. How do i choose the right caps?
That probably deserves a seperate episode. Its not hard to pick the "right ones". Just a few things to consider and ground rules to follow. But in short, every new electrolytic capacitor is better than whats currently in an old device. There are no real audible differences between brands. I would just make sure that the capacitors can take 105 C temperature and that the voltage is ideally slightly higher than original (e.g. replace 16v better with 25v). Just be moderate with the extra voltage. If you use e.g. 100v instead of 10v you might run into space issues. Significantly higher voltage will give you a physically bigger capacitor.
@@ClassicHiFiReviews Thanks for your reply. I think i go play with it. If i can find the right caps maybe i'm confident enough to start with it.First i go offer a broken amp to get the hang on it ::-) I will let you know if it worked for me. Thanks!
@@ClassicHiFiReviews HI !
The 105°C does not mean the cap can "take" 105°C, it means his LIFETIME was be tested on 105°C (3000 hours).
Greets from a "Wangine" maniac in Germany, stay safe.
@@bassieadriaan4278 : Its good to go on 63 Volt types AND go 2000 yF higher if you can find them.
The 2000 yF higher gives more power for the low tones AND helps against CLIPPING !
Do not go over +4000yF because you can damage the transformer ...
Greets from Germany, stay safe.
I have a pioneer 708 that has a problem
9:45 you putting a diffierent value capacitor there and you seem surprised that it's bulging. Bravo. I don't really understand why you din't put the same value capacitor there? Shame that guys like you destroying these good old equipment just because you swapping out parts without any logic. And what kind of WD-40 do you use? Because there are stuff meant to use for switches, some other things for potentiometers, etc. Regular WD-40 can cause problems later. WD-40 has a special version "contact" that is meant for switches. Overall, it was a bit of bain wwatching this "restoration". Don't do this man....
Really don't understand whats your problem? WD40 is used to address the sticky grease on the shaft of the switch. For contact cleanining I don't use WD40 at all. There are better "brands" for that purpose. Depending on switch type/purpose either contact cleaner with a level of lubrication is used or (and thats in most cases) contact cleaner that does not leave ANY residue at all. Random parts wered not replaced without reasons - hint is that you just watched a recapping video. Capacitors were replaced and most of them were far out of spec.
he says in the vid, you cant buy them anymore. and ive seen a million comments in the last few days that say using larger values causes no problems. lower is bad,,it didnt sit right with me either, thats a wild guess, you dont know the balance of the charge discharge circuits..which would be important i think..
Jeezzz, a few minutes into this video and I'm off. Don't do this! ou are destroying these beautiful pieces of audio equipment. DW40 and in what quantity!!! And the manner of applying!!! Damn! And when I saw how you pull Caps out with the plyers. Man, please, do not do it like that!!! I would not give you anything for restoring, service and repair.
Bullshit ... WD 40 "destroys" NOTHING.
It MAY leave a thin oily film on contacts but NOTHING else.
@@TomKappeln Geee man, don't pull your hair out! I did NOT say WD-40 will destroy something. I said - you were doing it in a destroying" manner. Anyway, yes, WD-40 leaves residue. Where is necessary or desirable - OK. Where it isn't - not so OK! WD-40, if applied somewhere in not so desirable place, will leave residue which can potentially make a problem some time in the future. Every chemical has it's place. Anyway, have in mind people are actually watching these and in 8 out of 10 videos wrongful guidance leads to destroying these engineering marvels. Do it your way. Who cares. My post was more of reaction how it hurts seeing people (like you, sorry) handle these gems in a wrong way on some places.
@@TomKappeln Hey Tom, I am sorry, I wrongfully talked to you like you were the original poster and video creator. Sorry for that! Anyway, I was making an observation to the OP. And his Cap replacement just like that... Hehe, placed the Cap, wrong value, started bulging. :-) UH, anyway, my thoughts stys the same, regardless of poster being him or you.
@@Beexzz : Sorry for being a little rude ...
;-) Not my day.
@@Beexzz : With the caps you are right ...