You should have shown the stock turbo inlet from a Mazdaspeed instead of the WRX one... The Stock inlet on the mazdaspeed....THAT's a air restriction. Well pretty much from the intake to the muffler tips, its so much restricted that every part you will upgrade, Intake/Inlet and remove resonators and muffler you will notice a huge improvement in the car throttle response and acceleration. Then add an Accessport V3, you wll feel like you're driving a go cart with a OTS tune...Dyno tune it with an HPFP and Catted downpipe on the stock K04 turbo you will have over 350hp easy...
Isn't port 1 normally closed and port 2 common and port 3 the vent so wouldn't the compressor side go to port 1 and the lower port on waste gate and port 2 to the top of the external waste gate to control boost I'm confused about the plumbing
Good question. A proper answer would be more lengthy. But the short story is that with a factory 2-port, the lines from the compressor (boost reference) and from the wastegate actuator are connected and "T" into one single line that runs to the solenoid. Then the second port goes to the inlet, pre-turbo. So when making higher boost and power, you can't control the wastegate actuator fully independently. So it can be influenced by air from the boost reference. Adding a 3rd port on the solenoid allows fully separate lines to run from each to the solenoid so that a tuner has more direct and independent control over the air going to the actuator regardless of what is happening in the compressor. Hope that helps. Adam@COBB
@@cobbtuning Tnx for useful information I got a question! What will happen if I want to do install this without turbo charger? I need just one thing for fuel economy, Does it have an effect? and how work the vehicle?
Hey there. The extra credit links are found at the bottom of our official COBB U page. Here's the link. Thanks for watching! www.cobbtuning.com/cobb-u/
The air being diverted there isn't what increases boost. It's just that when air is being routed there from the boost controller to the intake, the wastegate is closed. This allows boost to increase. Kyle@COBB
Barometric (outside/ambient air) pressure should never be outside of the range of 14-16 psi, unless you're in the eye of a hurricane or in some other crazy situation. When the throttle valve is closed or almost completely closed, the pistons in the engine are trying to suck air through but the throttle valve is blocking the most of the flow of air, so you should see very low manifold pressure values, approximately 7-8psi absolute, which would be about -7psi on most boost gauges. Those gauges measure the intake manifold pressure relative to standard ambient air pressure of 14.7psi. When you fully open the throttle valve, say while the car is idling, since the engine's ability to suck air in is no longer blocked by the throttle valve, the manifold pressure should increase to be about the same as ambient pressure outside of the car, which would show as 14.7psi absolute or 0psi on the boost gauge. Then, as the car's engine starts spinning the turbocharger while accelerating down the road, the manifold pressure will go higher than ambient pressure, so you should see values higher than 14.7psi absolute, which would be values higher than zero on the boost gauge. While cruising down the highway, you will not be at wide open throttle, so your manifold pressure should be slightly higher than when idling, i.e. 9-10psi, which would show as -4 or -5psi on the boost gauge. Hopefully that makes sense.
Good video but the turbo size example at 3:55 is totally incorrect and people need to stop saying this. The pressure inside your cylinder will reach equilibrium with the pressure at the manifold. 20psi boost at the manifold will make 20psi inside the cylinder ALWAYS. Consider the ideal gas law P=pRT. If the temp is constant, doubling the pressure inside the cylinder must double the mass inside the cylinder (density), which must double the fuel, which doubles the energy, which doubles the HP. The idea that 6psi would produce the same density of air (mass/volume < volume is constant) as 20 psi is completely wrong. This is why for approximately every 14.7 psi of boost, your engine HP doubles. A larger turbo can certainly get you more HP by freeing up more HP that was lost to turn a smaller turbo. Turbos are positive displacement pumps (super chargers are negative), so 1) the mass moved is proportional to the RPM, 2) the pressure is proportional to the square of the RPM, 3) the HP to turn the pump is proportional to the cube of the RPM. Since a larger turbo will move more air per revolution, it can generate the same boost as a smaller turbo for considerably less power. That power required to turn the turbo creates a reaction force on your exhaust stroke i.e. back pressure, i.e. your cylinders must do work on the turbo during the exhaust stroke to rotate it. Just to recap, the quantity of air that gets inside your cylinder is linearly proportional to the pressure change (temps considered constant). It is physically impossible to get more mass of the same gas inside a fixed volume with the same temperature and different pressures (ideal gas law > P =pRT). Your cylinder must reach equilibrium with the pressure outside the intake valve (boost). You must maintain an air-fuel-ratio of 14:1. Doubling the absolute pressure (boost + atmosphere) doubles the air mass which doubles the fuel required which doubles the HP.
Are you trying to say that if you had a car with stock turbo, then put a significantly larger turbo on the same exact engine and tuned it properly that it would make the exact same power on the same psi? If so, thats not true at all. There are countless examples of cars out in the world making a lot more power on a larger turbo at the same or even a lot less boost than a smaller turbo on the same engine. Manifold pressure isn't the only factor in how much power its going to make.
This is awesome, you explain everything in so much detail. Even for those who understand some about cars can learn even more here. Amazing!!!
What a brilliant and informative video. Great work on this Cobb.
Glad it was helpful!
Dang that was seriously well done and informative!!
This is great and how IT really should be done. Thank you Cobb. I subscribed !
8:22 for those who want to hook it up
This was helpful keep them coming!!
Nicely explained...please keep uploading videos.
You should have shown the stock turbo inlet from a Mazdaspeed instead of the WRX one... The Stock inlet on the mazdaspeed....THAT's a air restriction. Well pretty much from the intake to the muffler tips, its so much restricted that every part you will upgrade, Intake/Inlet and remove resonators and muffler you will notice a huge improvement in the car throttle response and acceleration. Then add an Accessport V3, you wll feel like you're driving a go cart with a OTS tune...Dyno tune it with an HPFP and Catted downpipe on the stock K04 turbo you will have over 350hp easy...
These vids are amazing! I learned so much
Great video series.
boost is life!
Isn't port 1 normally closed and port 2 common and port 3 the vent so wouldn't the compressor side go to port 1 and the lower port on waste gate and port 2 to the top of the external waste gate to control boost I'm confused about the plumbing
Sick fuel rails
Great Info!
So what’s the HP and Torque numbers with this setup?
What's the difference between factory Solenoid and this electronic after marked solenoid?
Good question. A proper answer would be more lengthy. But the short story is that with a factory 2-port, the lines from the compressor (boost reference) and from the wastegate actuator are connected and "T" into one single line that runs to the solenoid. Then the second port goes to the inlet, pre-turbo. So when making higher boost and power, you can't control the wastegate actuator fully independently. So it can be influenced by air from the boost reference. Adding a 3rd port on the solenoid allows fully separate lines to run from each to the solenoid so that a tuner has more direct and independent control over the air going to the actuator regardless of what is happening in the compressor. Hope that helps.
Adam@COBB
@@cobbtuning
Tnx for useful information
I got a question!
What will happen if I want to do install this without turbo charger?
I need just one thing for fuel economy, Does it have an effect? and how work the vehicle?
Sorry, I don't think I understand the question.
@@cobbtuning he is wondering how he can install it on a naturally asperated vehicle. He also wants to know if it will affect his fuel economy
where are the "extra credit" links?
Hey there. The extra credit links are found at the bottom of our official COBB U page. Here's the link. Thanks for watching!
www.cobbtuning.com/cobb-u/
Oh this complicated!
I am sorry but alot of this is new to me. How does boost diverted from the controller into the unpressurized air "increase boost"?
The air being diverted there isn't what increases boost. It's just that when air is being routed there from the boost controller to the intake, the wastegate is closed. This allows boost to increase. Kyle@COBB
What "extra credit below"?
What happens if Barometric pressure is 30 psi and Engine Air Pressure is 18 psi does this mean I make negative boost pressure?
Negative pressure is vacuum.
Barometric (outside/ambient air) pressure should never be outside of the range of 14-16 psi, unless you're in the eye of a hurricane or in some other crazy situation. When the throttle valve is closed or almost completely closed, the pistons in the engine are trying to suck air through but the throttle valve is blocking the most of the flow of air, so you should see very low manifold pressure values, approximately 7-8psi absolute, which would be about -7psi on most boost gauges. Those gauges measure the intake manifold pressure relative to standard ambient air pressure of 14.7psi. When you fully open the throttle valve, say while the car is idling, since the engine's ability to suck air in is no longer blocked by the throttle valve, the manifold pressure should increase to be about the same as ambient pressure outside of the car, which would show as 14.7psi absolute or 0psi on the boost gauge. Then, as the car's engine starts spinning the turbocharger while accelerating down the road, the manifold pressure will go higher than ambient pressure, so you should see values higher than 14.7psi absolute, which would be values higher than zero on the boost gauge. While cruising down the highway, you will not be at wide open throttle, so your manifold pressure should be slightly higher than when idling, i.e. 9-10psi, which would show as -4 or -5psi on the boost gauge. Hopefully that makes sense.
Very awesome video and presentation I can see my wallet being spooled in by COBB Tuning !
I love you
She is hot 🔥
i way cooler when a woman explain something instead of a dude i have the impression that i learn faster :'D
Bewst 🤗
reminds me of the girls from the tarantino short - "chicks who love guns" - ua-cam.com/video/RsnWZlEQyLA/v-deo.html
She kind of sounds like Dora
Why are you yelling? Good information
Good video but the turbo size example at 3:55 is totally incorrect and people need to stop saying this.
The pressure inside your cylinder will reach equilibrium with the pressure at the manifold. 20psi boost at the manifold will make 20psi inside the cylinder ALWAYS. Consider the ideal gas law P=pRT. If the temp is constant, doubling the pressure inside the cylinder must double the mass inside the cylinder (density), which must double the fuel, which doubles the energy, which doubles the HP. The idea that 6psi would produce the same density of air (mass/volume < volume is constant) as 20 psi is completely wrong. This is why for approximately every 14.7 psi of boost, your engine HP doubles. A larger turbo can certainly get you more HP by freeing up more HP that was lost to turn a smaller turbo. Turbos are positive displacement pumps (super chargers are negative), so 1) the mass moved is proportional to the RPM, 2) the pressure is proportional to the square of the RPM, 3) the HP to turn the pump is proportional to the cube of the RPM. Since a larger turbo will move more air per revolution, it can generate the same boost as a smaller turbo for considerably less power. That power required to turn the turbo creates a reaction force on your exhaust stroke i.e. back pressure, i.e. your cylinders must do work on the turbo during the exhaust stroke to rotate it.
Just to recap, the quantity of air that gets inside your cylinder is linearly proportional to the pressure change (temps considered constant). It is physically impossible to get more mass of the same gas inside a fixed volume with the same temperature and different pressures (ideal gas law > P =pRT). Your cylinder must reach equilibrium with the pressure outside the intake valve (boost). You must maintain an air-fuel-ratio of 14:1. Doubling the absolute pressure (boost + atmosphere) doubles the air mass which doubles the fuel required which doubles the HP.
Are you trying to say that if you had a car with stock turbo, then put a significantly larger turbo on the same exact engine and tuned it properly that it would make the exact same power on the same psi? If so, thats not true at all. There are countless examples of cars out in the world making a lot more power on a larger turbo at the same or even a lot less boost than a smaller turbo on the same engine. Manifold pressure isn't the only factor in how much power its going to make.
This women erks me
Don't assume her gender, man
Their* gender
@@chipgaines8555 she identifies as a female Motorhead, so sorry bra!
Y’all over here in this circle jerk doesn’t stop the fact the hector is running 3 Honda civics with spoon engines...
Febreeze Ads lmao