You need some smaller jars to make it easier on yourself. I got myself a 2 oz Benzine Cup off of Amazon and came across a tiny jam jar (single serving size). While I have a DIY cleaning machine, these jars come in handy when a movement is too oily or otherwise grungy and needs a good pre-clean before hitting the cleaning machine. Hadn't tried One Dip. I've just used Ronsonol lighter fluid for cleaning balances, pallet forks, jewel settings and when necessary to pre-clean other parts.
Yeah, truth to tell I'm not 100% happy with the jars I have. I like that they're transparent and can be tightly sealed. But they're a little too deep. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep my eyes out for those.
Probably best to use 99% IP for the final rinse as it leaves no white residue left by the napter and dries quickly but NOT for roller jewel or pallet fork. A cheap food dehydrator is good for drying parts. A puffer could send small parts into orbit.
Puffer: Agreed. I'll look for a used dehydrator, that's a good idea. IP after the final rinse? Hmmmmm, thanks for that tip, I'm going to research that today.
Sounds like your watch laboratory needs a fume hood! Also, I'd go for a small frame for the main spring so you can mount it to the wall. You can label it "Grandpa's main spring - operation 1914-2024"
Looks good! I am not sure if you did this but screw in the dial screws fully so you don't lose them while cleaning. I usually preclean parts of the watch that are very greasy like the mainspring barrel and do the pivot holes with peg wood before the final cleaning. It looks like that mainspring really needed replacing.
Yes, I did screw in the dial screws before cleaning! I thought about pre-cleaning but I didn’t know whether that would’ve been overkill. I also thought about pegging the pivot holes before *and*after cleaning but maybe that would’ve been overkill as well. What guidelines do you use? One thing I will do is examine with my 10X loupe each part and scrutinize e.g. the lips around for example bushings for gunk that I need to clean with Peg wood. I’m also thinking about jamming all the pivots in pithwood a few times just for grins. Man, that main spring launched.
@@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf I do precleaning mostly to help break up the dried stuff and keep my machine solutions from getting badly contaminated. Not as much a problem if you are hand cleaning. I also check each jewel for cracks while I am cleaning.
LOL I did think of closing my eyes and turning my head sideways, and doing the removal by feel, when I was doing it. But seriously, good point. I was surprised it took off at the very end. I thought all of the energy was gone by that point.
Another viewer said this. I honestly didn't notice any residue, but I like to bow to the wisdom of those more experienced than me. Where's the best place to buy this "white spirit" online?
@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf Hardware/diy stores. White spirit (AU, UK and Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ/ZA), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
@@raymond7880 It's crazy that a chemical has such different names. And IIRC, the labels on some containers don't give information on the purity of the contents. But thanks, I'll scope it out here.
I don't know much about clock or watchmaking (may have look at a couple of books), but it is fascinating. What was wrong with the mainspring though? To my eyes (and from what I could see in the video) it didn't look damaged but maybe a bit dirty?
Here are my reasons why the mainspring shouldn't go back in. They aren't absolutes, but more akin to heuristics. 1. The spring is at least 90 years old. My grandfather died in the 1930s and there's virtually zero chance my father had it serviced after he inherited it. 2. The watch, and therefore the spring, has been unused for at least 80 years, possibly 90 years. 3. Steel doesn't decompose in 80 years time :-) but the spring has been under constant tension for all those years. I'm no metallurgist but that doesn't sound like a good thing for the spring. Also, the steel used in steel springs 90 years ago isn't the same steel used today in steel springs. All things being equal, it's less powerful/robust and more prone to... whatever can happen to a steel spring. 🙂 4. Everything breaks eventually, including springs. In this simple barrel, a broken spring could inflict damage on the wheel train depending upon how it breaks. 5. Re-inserting the spring by hand is risky. I could easily introduce kinks in the spring without knowing it. There's no way to determine if a spring is kinked without removing it, which would start the cycle over again. :-) A kinked spring is bad. 6. Re-inserting the spring using a spring winder is much safer. But I don't own one yet. 7. A new alloy spring is about $25. It has a longer life than steel springs, and more power all things being equal, and comes pre-packaged and pre-lubricated ready for insertion. 8. The spring looks a little odd because the spiral's spacing isn't uniform in the innermost three turns. Is that "one of those things" in old springs for this watch, or is it indicative of a section now having less power, or is it indicative of a section that's totally kaput? Don't know but why chance it? 9. Cleaning and re-lubricating a steel spring prior to re-insertion can be done and it's not risky. But it is a couple more operations that I'd have to do for this watch. Vs. buying a new pre-packaged alloy spring. I may have overstated things, or summarized my decision inaccurately, when I talked about the existing spring. But these are the reasons why I concluded, nah, I'm gonna insert a new spring.
I had no intention of touching any of the parts after cleaning, and I didn't. But I guess your point is that I might have accidentally touched a clean part, and so finger cots would be a wise precaution? You are so right. Point taken. I'll wear finger cots next time even if I have no intention of touching the parts. Thanks!
@@timdiver53 Gosh, I didn't take it that way at all! I apologize if my response sounded snippy! I didn't mean for it to sound that way. I get what you're saying, and you're right. I should have worn cots so I would be able to respond to e.g. dropping a part without contaminating it. I'll do better next time! 🙂
You need some smaller jars to make it easier on yourself. I got myself a 2 oz Benzine Cup off of Amazon and came across a tiny jam jar (single serving size). While I have a DIY cleaning machine, these jars come in handy when a movement is too oily or otherwise grungy and needs a good pre-clean before hitting the cleaning machine. Hadn't tried One Dip. I've just used Ronsonol lighter fluid for cleaning balances, pallet forks, jewel settings and when necessary to pre-clean other parts.
Thanks for the tip!
You might look for 1/4 pint canning jars that should use the same lids you're currently using.
Yeah, truth to tell I'm not 100% happy with the jars I have. I like that they're transparent and can be tightly sealed. But they're a little too deep. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep my eyes out for those.
Probably best to use 99% IP for the final rinse as it leaves no white residue left by the napter and dries quickly but NOT for roller jewel or pallet fork. A cheap food dehydrator is good for drying parts. A puffer could send small parts into orbit.
Puffer: Agreed. I'll look for a used dehydrator, that's a good idea.
IP after the final rinse? Hmmmmm, thanks for that tip, I'm going to research that today.
Sounds like your watch laboratory needs a fume hood! Also, I'd go for a small frame for the main spring so you can mount it to the wall. You can label it "Grandpa's main spring - operation 1914-2024"
That's actually a great idea. I can pick up a frame cheap enough. I'll do that!
Looks good! I am not sure if you did this but screw in the dial screws fully so you don't lose them while cleaning. I usually preclean parts of the watch that are very greasy like the mainspring barrel and do the pivot holes with peg wood before the final cleaning. It looks like that mainspring really needed replacing.
Yes, I did screw in the dial screws before cleaning! I thought about pre-cleaning but I didn’t know whether that would’ve been overkill. I also thought about pegging the pivot holes before *and*after cleaning but maybe that would’ve been overkill as well. What guidelines do you use?
One thing I will do is examine with my 10X loupe each part and scrutinize e.g. the lips around for example bushings for gunk that I need to clean with Peg wood. I’m also thinking about jamming all the pivots in pithwood a few times just for grins.
Man, that main spring launched.
@@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf I do precleaning mostly to help break up the dried stuff and keep my machine solutions from getting badly contaminated. Not as much a problem if you are hand cleaning. I also check each jewel for cracks while I am cleaning.
@@johnhannon gotcha
You might want to use eye protection when unwinding mainsprings.
LOL I did think of closing my eyes and turning my head sideways, and doing the removal by feel, when I was doing it. But seriously, good point.
I was surprised it took off at the very end. I thought all of the energy was gone by that point.
I use 'white spirit'. Stainless and odourless. I tried lighter fuel but it leaves a white sheen/'residue'.
Another viewer said this. I honestly didn't notice any residue, but I like to bow to the wisdom of those more experienced than me. Where's the best place to buy this "white spirit" online?
@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf Hardware/diy stores. White spirit (AU, UK and Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ/ZA), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
@@raymond7880 It's crazy that a chemical has such different names. And IIRC, the labels on some containers don't give information on the purity of the contents. But thanks, I'll scope it out here.
@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf True. But in the UK it has one name: white spirit.
@@raymond7880 proving once again that everything is better in europe
I don't know much about clock or watchmaking (may have look at a couple of books), but it is fascinating.
What was wrong with the mainspring though? To my eyes (and from what I could see in the video) it didn't look damaged but maybe a bit dirty?
Here are my reasons why the mainspring shouldn't go back in. They aren't absolutes, but more akin to heuristics.
1. The spring is at least 90 years old. My grandfather died in the 1930s and there's virtually zero chance my father had it serviced after he inherited it.
2. The watch, and therefore the spring, has been unused for at least 80 years, possibly 90 years.
3. Steel doesn't decompose in 80 years time :-) but the spring has been under constant tension for all those years. I'm no metallurgist but that doesn't sound like a good thing for the spring. Also, the steel used in steel springs 90 years ago isn't the same steel used today in steel springs. All things being equal, it's less powerful/robust and more prone to... whatever can happen to a steel spring. 🙂
4. Everything breaks eventually, including springs. In this simple barrel, a broken spring could inflict damage on the wheel train depending upon how it breaks.
5. Re-inserting the spring by hand is risky. I could easily introduce kinks in the spring without knowing it. There's no way to determine if a spring is kinked without removing it, which would start the cycle over again. :-) A kinked spring is bad.
6. Re-inserting the spring using a spring winder is much safer. But I don't own one yet.
7. A new alloy spring is about $25. It has a longer life than steel springs, and more power all things being equal, and comes pre-packaged and pre-lubricated ready for insertion.
8. The spring looks a little odd because the spiral's spacing isn't uniform in the innermost three turns. Is that "one of those things" in old springs for this watch, or is it indicative of a section now having less power, or is it indicative of a section that's totally kaput? Don't know but why chance it?
9. Cleaning and re-lubricating a steel spring prior to re-insertion can be done and it's not risky. But it is a couple more operations that I'd have to do for this watch. Vs. buying a new pre-packaged alloy spring.
I may have overstated things, or summarized my decision inaccurately, when I talked about the existing spring. But these are the reasons why I concluded, nah, I'm gonna insert a new spring.
@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf thank you for your explanation.
Why don't you use finger cots? 5:26
I had no intention of touching any of the parts after cleaning, and I didn't. But I guess your point is that I might have accidentally touched a clean part, and so finger cots would be a wise precaution?
You are so right. Point taken. I'll wear finger cots next time even if I have no intention of touching the parts. Thanks!
@@Oldguyponderingacareerch-ip9tf Wasn't picking on you just thought there mite be a down side you knew about. Thanks!
@@timdiver53 Gosh, I didn't take it that way at all! I apologize if my response sounded snippy! I didn't mean for it to sound that way.
I get what you're saying, and you're right. I should have worn cots so I would be able to respond to e.g. dropping a part without contaminating it. I'll do better next time! 🙂