Aww, no landing? That's my favorite part. I like using nylon bolts to hold the wing on. They break in a hard landing and absorb a lot of energy. Saved me a lot of repairs! Thanks, keep up the great videos.
Another inspiring build. You always make it look so easy. I'm awaiting parts delivery for the Savage Bobber assembly. The printer was on a wobbly table and thr vibrations transferred to the print. I have since braced the table. Waiting for a test print to complete to see if it is improved. This build video was a great distraction. Thanks. Keep it up!
Nice thank you for the update this is something I can mention in on of my future printing video to make sure the printer is secure. I had problems with my Artillery with ringing and the main cause was the spool mounted to the top of the Z axis. I mounted the spool to the wall and now getting the best prints I have gotten to date. Good luck with the Bobber build it is a fun build.
I tried to print a plane in lw-pla recently. White printed perfectly. Black printed perfectly too but then a day later the skin of the part became all rippled and wavy in some areas making the parts unusable. Have you had this problem and is there a solution? perhaps moisture related? I don't want to waste more filament as its expensive
I have not had any problems like this. I have heard of paint making it wrinkle but I painted my entire Model C and it worked good on that. I live in Las Vegas so it is very dry here not much humidity. Not all planes are designed to be printed in LW-PLA some planes have the International rib section spaced to far apart to work with LW-PLA. All the Eclipson planes work with LW-PLA.
you good at this kind stuff bro you need to sell on amazon people willing to buy it's it's fun to used ur stuff bro now this day people need to start walking out side and play not stay at home and watching tv everyday need to do something
Hi Troy, very nice videos, thank you, they inspired me to purchase the Model V. I am running into a small problem. I have printed the fuselage, but there is a "slit" in the fus2 part. It is also visible as a very small slot in the stl file. I suspected that it would close when printed, but it did not. Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong? The "slit" is located at the top of the part, a bit at the left side, starting where the canopy touches the fus2 part and ending where the fus3 part begins.
Thanks for the great video. And more importantly, thank you for listing the products, especially the 3D printers you are using. I'm sure others and looking to get involved, just as I am and one of the first questions is always, what printer should I be looking at. :)
I purchased the EGW-80 and there are retractions galore in that model! I downloaded the free model A and it printed beautifully, like the one in your video. I wish Eclipson would redo some of the other models offered on their site to print without retractions...
@@eclipsonairplanes I understand that as time passes new processes and techniques are adopted in perfecting new and exciting tech. In saying that, please keep doing what your doing because your designs are both cutting edge and beautiful!
@@patrickdavidokeeffe I don't have experience with the ender 3 pro. But I have had many followers say that the ender 3 works very well for these builds.
@@TroyMcMillan I printed the PlanePrint test wing section perfectly with it straight out of the box using the original settings. The Eclipson Model V2 is an entirely different story using their provided G-codes. Their codes print at 100 speed which according to the drawing should be 50 among other things. To be fair, besides the G-codes, I had layer separation issues that may have been due to filament feed since some sections printed perfectly. Same when I sliced the STL files using drawing settings. I'm thinking this may have been due to the subpar bowden tube and fittings which I have just recently changed or a nozzle clog. About to start again.
How can I adjust the supplied gcodes as I cant see how to open them .The STL yes cura auto opens it when I select it But I cant figure our how to open the gcode
Another great video. I'm in the midst of assembling the Model A and could see some of the small refinements that went into this plane, such as the CF rod guides for the canopy halves. One question -- in several of your videos you use a small drill, e.g., to enlarge the holes in servo control arms. Could you share details and perhaps a source? Many thanks and keep up the great work.
Can you post a link to the pushrod material you used? Thanks for the video, it was a huge help. Eclipson says to use 2mm carbon rods for assembly but they're too big. And Eclipson's customer support is non-existent.
Have you ever had an issue printing the "fus1" file? Mine keeps getting knocked of the bed at about 95% through, when looking at the file in cura it looks like the file is actually angled on the bed by a few degrees, no editing to the file just imported straight in
Thank you, FPV racing wings are definitely out there I have not built one yet. I don't currently do any FPV stuff. Eclipson has a few wings for FPV but they are larger than 29in they are like 1.4-.1.6m.
You only need one printer. They are both very good printers one is just a bit larger build volume but is not needed the smaller one will work great for all the planes on my channel.
For all the wing and fuselage parts there is not top and bottom layers. Only top and bottom layers for other parts like ailerons and other parts that specify in the PDF file indicated by the numbers on the side.
Hi, I am in the process of printing the V2. Is there a replacement for the sunnysky 2212 1400kV? This one seems to be hard to get (in Europe). Banggood just cancelled my order.
I am sorry to hear that it has been hard for me to get this kv also. I have recently been ordering from sunnyskyusa.com I am not sure this will be a good option for you in Europe but you could try. You can use a 2212 1250kv would work good also. If you can't get any of those any 2212 motor will fit but the prop spinner may not work if you use a different brand than sunny sky.
@@dc392hemi Ya I defiantly understand that. For me it is the same thing in the other direction. When I want things from china the shipping is 2 times the cost of the part and takes 2-3 week to get to me. Hope you can find something that will work.
Hello Thank you for your great videos! Based on your setup, this does not create continuous printing per layer (cura 4.12.1), which generates stringing. Do you have a particular setting?
Great video Troy! So are you using the gcode provided? Or setting up profiles? Because I have several Eclipson models and all have a lot of retractions in them, if you are using your own profiles then is there a setting I'm missing? The model V is an old model and I have the model Y,T, Prandtl and model A. If I use the provided gcodes then I have stringing and pin holes, but my profiles I have made work flawless. There must be a setting that I don't have, I've scoured Eclipson's website and per there profiles I'm right on but still have up to 30% of print time in retractions. It doesn't bother me just trying to figure what's different. Thanks again!
It has nothing to do with the setting, it is due to a new design philosophy, our latest 4 models are using this technique and we are planning to extend it to older and future designs due the positive feedbacks received from our clients
excuse my request but can you do an in-depth tutorial explaining and showing everything such as how to connect the parts to the receiver and where and how to insert the battery and other minor stuff that might seem silly but because I have no expertise in this field and I'm willing to such build but afraid of these things
Very nice build. Where are you sourcing the 3D filament; particularly the ColorFabb LW-PLA? Was looking at ordering from ColorFab's website, but shipping cost was more than $50 for single roll from the Netherlands. A US distributor/source would really be helpful.
it would be better with a single center wheel instead of that skid like in real gliders. Also you don't have to plug servos to receiver to find center spot, you can just rotate the horn until the end stop one way and the other, then just place the horn in the middle, and then mount the horn as needed, and just trim later.
Hi Troy. I (Martin) subscribed to your channel and with your help I have managed to print out the test wing from Planeprint and it is almost flawless. However after buying Savage Bobber I realised my printer could not print anything taller than 180mm. Not a problem as Planeprint refunded my money which to be honest I wasn't expecting. My question is: do you know of any printed aircraft that are suitable for printers with a max Z axis travel of 180mm ? My next task is to extend my printer gantry. Keep up the good work.
Once again another excellent video, call me selfish but I wish you would do your builds and test flights using PLA instead of LW PLA. Unless it becomes mainstream I'll probably never use LW PLA so I would prefer to see how things turn out using regular PLA.
You can print this model with PLA and it will also fly really good (just a bit faster). The plane without landing gear of this video was printed with PLA: ua-cam.com/video/OTQyjJsAEjo/v-deo.html
@@eclipsonairplanes Yep I've watched that several times. Bought the model c files yesterday and started my printing adventure. First wing section came out perfect although it seems heavy so going to check my settings to see if I have too many layers or something like that
Try the newer PolyLite LW-PLA, it prints just like normal PLA (it's pre-foamed), and weighs about 65% of regular PLA. I'm printing a plane with it now and it's coming out really nice. Currently $32 for a 800g spool on Amazon US.
Aww, no landing? That's my favorite part. I like using nylon bolts to hold the wing on. They break in a hard landing and absorb a lot of energy. Saved me a lot of repairs! Thanks, keep up the great videos.
Clean work
Thank you
3:15 LOL Z seam ..... BEND maybe... great video as usual thanks for sharing.. looks like a great model
Would love to see a plane built with lights and a night vision lense I bet that would look so cool. Another great build Troy
I like the Aileron hinge design, very nice...🤔😀🇬🇧
Yes me too it is very clean and works well.
Another great build and walk-through... thanks.
flys well in PLA and is lees twitchy when it's windy, Hey Troy try a folding prop, use the Break and it will sail really nice
Anyone having trouble getting straight edges on wing sections I'm having a tough time and thoughts using a ender3v2 on dynamic with .6 walls
That plane is gorgeous, I'm deffinetly getting one!
Really well done video. Nice looking plane too!
Excellent video...again!
I really like the pinning method for part alignment when gluing together. Addimp RC does this too with toothpicks on some of their parts.
I agree the alignment makes it very easy to assemble.
Another inspiring build. You always make it look so easy. I'm awaiting parts delivery for the Savage Bobber assembly. The printer was on a wobbly table and thr vibrations transferred to the print. I have since braced the table. Waiting for a test print to complete to see if it is improved. This build video was a great distraction. Thanks. Keep it up!
Nice thank you for the update this is something I can mention in on of my future printing video to make sure the printer is secure. I had problems with my Artillery with ringing and the main cause was the spool mounted to the top of the Z axis. I mounted the spool to the wall and now getting the best prints I have gotten to date. Good luck with the Bobber build it is a fun build.
I tried to print a plane in lw-pla recently. White printed perfectly. Black printed perfectly too but then a day later the skin of the part became all rippled and wavy in some areas making the parts unusable. Have you had this problem and is there a solution? perhaps moisture related? I don't want to waste more filament as its expensive
I have not had any problems like this. I have heard of paint making it wrinkle but I painted my entire Model C and it worked good on that. I live in Las Vegas so it is very dry here not much humidity. Not all planes are designed to be printed in LW-PLA some planes have the International rib section spaced to far apart to work with LW-PLA. All the Eclipson planes work with LW-PLA.
Impressive. You make it look easy, though I'm sure there was some planning ahead of time.
you good at this kind stuff bro you need to sell on amazon people willing to buy it's
it's fun to used ur stuff bro now this day people need to start walking out side and play
not stay at home and watching tv everyday need to do something
Yes I definitely agree with you for sure this is a fun hobby to go out and fly. Cheers
Hi Troy, very nice videos, thank you, they inspired me to purchase the Model V. I am running into a small problem. I have printed the fuselage, but there is a "slit" in the fus2 part. It is also visible as a very small slot in the stl file. I suspected that it would close when printed, but it did not. Is this normal? Or am I doing something wrong? The "slit" is located at the top of the part, a bit at the left side, starting where the canopy touches the fus2 part and ending where the fus3 part begins.
Доброе утро из России,канал у вас замечательный ,плохо только то что я незнаю английский язык,модельки у вас просто класс👍👍👍
Thanks for the great video. And more importantly, thank you for listing the products, especially the 3D printers you are using. I'm sure others and looking to get involved, just as I am and one of the first questions is always, what printer should I be looking at. :)
I purchased the EGW-80 and there are retractions galore in that model! I downloaded the free model A and it printed beautifully, like the one in your video. I wish Eclipson would redo some of the other models offered on their site to print without retractions...
Little by little we will do that. We prefer to offer quality over quantity to be honest.
@@eclipsonairplanes I understand that as time passes new processes and techniques are adopted in perfecting new and exciting tech. In saying that, please keep doing what your doing because your designs are both cutting edge and beautiful!
My model V is printing now! Yes it does print fast. Creality Ender 3 Pro.
Nice have fun with the build
@@TroyMcMillan My buddy is building the Big Bobber and this model V is on his shortlist. Love these vids!
How do you find the Ender 3 pro for printing these models?
@@patrickdavidokeeffe I don't have experience with the ender 3 pro. But I have had many followers say that the ender 3 works very well for these builds.
@@TroyMcMillan I printed the PlanePrint test wing section perfectly with it straight out of the box using the original settings. The Eclipson Model V2 is an entirely different story using their provided G-codes. Their codes print at 100 speed which according to the drawing should be 50 among other things. To be fair, besides the G-codes, I had layer separation issues that may have been due to filament feed since some sections printed perfectly. Same when I sliced the STL files using drawing settings. I'm thinking this may have been due to the subpar bowden tube and fittings which I have just recently changed or a nozzle clog. About to start again.
How can I adjust the supplied gcodes as I cant see how to open them .The STL yes cura auto opens it when I select it But I cant figure our how to open the gcode
Would u have complete list of parts as I've noticed you mention things but dont give a link to find them Alao do u have pla settings gs
Another great video. I'm in the midst of assembling the Model A and could see some of the small refinements that went into this plane, such as the CF rod guides for the canopy halves. One question -- in several of your videos you use a small drill, e.g., to enlarge the holes in servo control arms. Could you share details and perhaps a source? Many thanks and keep up the great work.
Also my fuse 1 and fuse 2 printed with a lower fitment tab with no female side ? Any tips
Can you post a link to the pushrod material you used? Thanks for the video, it was a huge help. Eclipson says to use 2mm carbon rods for assembly but they're too big. And Eclipson's customer support is non-existent.
Have you ever had an issue printing the "fus1" file? Mine keeps getting knocked of the bed at about 95% through, when looking at the file in cura it looks like the file is actually angled on the bed by a few degrees, no editing to the file just imported straight in
Fore the Fuse 1 part I did use a brim to keep it adhered to the bed. Also I use hair spray as an adhesive to the bed.
Any thought to design and print an fpv racing wing? Looking at something around 28-29 inches. Love your work!
Thank you, FPV racing wings are definitely out there I have not built one yet. I don't currently do any FPV stuff. Eclipson has a few wings for FPV but they are larger than 29in they are like 1.4-.1.6m.
@@TroyMcMillan yea they are nice... just to big to fly at the park lol. Thanks.... and love the chanel.
May i know what is the G-code file that have been provided for?
Have you ever found any methods of glossing the surfaces, like thin films of any kind for example?
You could try gloss cleacoat....
Hey for make this rc plane do you need to have a both 3D printers from descriptions?
or one is enough and if so which is better
You only need one printer. They are both very good printers one is just a bit larger build volume but is not needed the smaller one will work great for all the planes on my channel.
@@TroyMcMillan thanks
What wall thickness would u use for pla
Hello Troy! What is the difference betwwen Model V and V2? Thanks!
In ur slicer setting are u using any top and bottom layers.if so how many?
For all the wing and fuselage parts there is not top and bottom layers. Only top and bottom layers for other parts like ailerons and other parts that specify in the PDF file indicated by the numbers on the side.
@@TroyMcMillan ok
What is the material of plane, abs? Can I use pla or petg instead? What type of glue you use?
😍😍😍
Hi, I am in the process of printing the V2. Is there a replacement for the sunnysky 2212 1400kV? This one seems to be hard to get (in Europe). Banggood just cancelled my order.
I am sorry to hear that it has been hard for me to get this kv also. I have recently been ordering from sunnyskyusa.com I am not sure this will be a good option for you in Europe but you could try. You can use a 2212 1250kv would work good also. If you can't get any of those any 2212 motor will fit but the prop spinner may not work if you use a different brand than sunny sky.
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks for the reply. The shipping would be 38 $ for a motor that is only 15 $. So I will be looking at China again
@@dc392hemi Ya I defiantly understand that. For me it is the same thing in the other direction. When I want things from china the shipping is 2 times the cost of the part and takes 2-3 week to get to me. Hope you can find something that will work.
@@TroyMcMillan I think I will try the Turnigy 2213 1050kV, it's a little less thrust than the SunnySky but the same weight and dimensions
@@dc392hemi That should work good. This plane flies very well so little less power is ok. Have fun with your build. Cheers
cant wait for a f-22
Is there a link for the prints?
Hello
Thank you for your great videos!
Based on your setup, this does not create continuous printing per layer (cura 4.12.1), which generates stringing.
Do you have a particular setting?
Sorry, I had the wrong file (model T)...
Everything is ok!
Awesome plane!!! Btw are you at a different flying field? Doesn't look like the usual desert
Ya this is one of the actual RC field in Las Vegas.
would like to see a scale steme s-10 soon or ask-21 with up an go drive
Sir I'm finding male tabs with no female locating on my fuse prints ?
I'm sure someone has asked before, but where are you getting your LW-PLA? Thanks for the great video!
There is a link in the description. It is from colorfabb.com
Great video Troy! So are you using the gcode provided? Or setting up profiles? Because I have several Eclipson models and all have a lot of retractions in them, if you are using your own profiles then is there a setting I'm missing? The model V is an old model and I have the model Y,T, Prandtl and model A. If I use the provided gcodes then I have stringing and pin holes, but my profiles I have made work flawless. There must be a setting that I don't have, I've scoured Eclipson's website and per there profiles I'm right on but still have up to 30% of print time in retractions. It doesn't bother me just trying to figure what's different. Thanks again!
It has nothing to do with the setting, it is due to a new design philosophy, our latest 4 models are using this technique and we are planning to extend it to older and future designs due the positive feedbacks received from our clients
@@eclipsonairplanes thank you for the reply, keep up the great work!
excuse my request but can you do an in-depth tutorial explaining and showing everything such as how to connect the parts to the receiver and where and how to insert the battery and other minor stuff that might seem silly but because I have no expertise in this field and I'm willing to such build but afraid of these things
I have thought about doing something like this, I will likely do it in the future!
Very nice build. Where are you sourcing the 3D filament; particularly the ColorFabb LW-PLA?
Was looking at ordering from ColorFab's website, but shipping cost was more than $50 for single roll from the Netherlands. A US distributor/source would really be helpful.
Esc ? Battery ?
Do they sell the models as a STL file or as GCODE? 🤔
STL files
@@TroyMcMillan thx
I just purchased the plane.... it comes with the files and the Gcode for both LW and standard PLA.
@@moochasas Thank you for this reply. I was not aware it came with Gcode files.
@@TroyMcMillan the gcode files are they for direct drive or bowden end printers?
Battery size esc ?
Anyone know if there are suppliers out there who are printing and selling the parts in kits?
it would be better with a single center wheel instead of that skid like in real gliders.
Also you don't have to plug servos to receiver to find center spot, you can just rotate the horn until the end stop one way and the other, then just place the horn in the middle, and then mount the horn as needed, and just trim later.
Do you mean they are using vase mode to print? Thanks Laurie
You don´t have to click on the "vase mode parameter" the part will be printed without retractions due to the specific design.
But there impossibly thin center section came out wavey Theres no wall to glue
Hi Troy. I (Martin) subscribed to your channel and with your help I have managed to print out the test wing from Planeprint and it is almost flawless. However after buying Savage Bobber I realised my printer could not print anything taller than 180mm. Not a problem as Planeprint refunded my money which to be honest I wasn't expecting. My question is: do you know of any printed aircraft that are suitable for printers with a max Z axis travel of 180mm ? My next task is to extend my printer gantry. Keep up the good work.
Once again another excellent video, call me selfish but I wish you would do your builds and test flights using PLA instead of LW PLA. Unless it becomes mainstream I'll probably never use LW PLA so I would prefer to see how things turn out using regular PLA.
You can print this model with PLA and it will also fly really good (just a bit faster). The plane without landing gear of this video was printed with PLA: ua-cam.com/video/OTQyjJsAEjo/v-deo.html
@@eclipsonairplanes Yep I've watched that several times. Bought the model c files yesterday and started my printing adventure. First wing section came out perfect although it seems heavy so going to check my settings to see if I have too many layers or something like that
Try the newer PolyLite LW-PLA, it prints just like normal PLA (it's pre-foamed), and weighs about 65% of regular PLA. I'm printing a plane with it now and it's coming out really nice. Currently $32 for a 800g spool on Amazon US.
@@jasonhurdlow6607 Thanks for the heads up. I'll take a look at that stuff
Having a heck of a time gluing the wing just to thin any ideas anyone
👍
please build my favorite air plane RC F14 tomcat with 3D printer and please give it for me (Request from Indonesia)..good luck and thanks bro👍👍😂
I'd appreciate a reply as I'm a fellow modeler
Yorumumu begenin 🖐🇹🇷
Omg where is your beard