Nice video, you said it was too long but i watched it to the end The tip stall is due to a lack of spiral stability, you were right that the tail seemed too small Two ways to improve things without making a bigger tail: increase the length of your tail booms or reduce the length of the nose (remember that the longer the nose is the more area is in front of the lateral centre of area and the bigger the tail needs to be), you could always do both
Looks like a cool build. I would probably print a plane with ABS for the heat resistance or ASA since it's UV stable and has good heat properties. PETG and PLA will work for a bit but after a hot day in a car they will both shrink and warp. I've been looking for some interesting builds to do someday like this.
you definitely could do that! I usually just fly in the early morning or evenings before sunset, and then keep it in the shade while setting it up for flight
Hello, I have a Ender 3 pro and used your settings to print this plane and it turned out great. I tried using the same setting to print out a 3dlab print F-86 and the walls are a little to thin. what setting should I change to get the walls to print a little thicker?. Thanks in advance.
Nice I am glad the setting worked for you for this build. The 3D lab print planes are hard to work with because they are designed to use simplify 3d as slicer software. That is one of the reasons I haven't build another one besides the 152 I did. If you want the walls thick try increasing the flow setting under the material table. Just keep bumping it up 5% until you get the desired wall thickness.
@@TroyMcMillan Thank you. I am printing the V-turn now and using the same settings you provided for the glider build. The settings also work very nicely for the V-turn also. Thank you again.
PA glue fumes will polymerize on fingerprints, causing most of the fogging issues. Clean parts with alcohol and wear cloth gloves when handling parts where glue fumes will show.
Excellent video!! Love that you provided links to all the parts and tools needed to complete the build although some are unavailable but there is nothing you can do about that. Also great that you provided printer settings which is a great start for those who need to get their printer dialed in.
I’m in Vegas also, where were you flying in this video. I see lake mead but which area? I won’t be part of an RC club so I need a place to fly larger planes
You don't need to be part of any club here in Vegas, just have your AMA. All the fields are really nice to fly on. There isn't any name that I see for this little field, but it is right next to the RV park in Lake Mead.
I was really looking forward to building this glider, but I found out the hard way today that this plane can only be flown in the winter, at least here in the American SW. I live in Arizona, and it's close to 100F today. This morning, I took an Eclipson Model A (printed with regular PLA) out for its maiden flight. Before we could even get it off the ground, the wings started warping....it was literally melting. LW PLA doesn't seem to have this problem. I'm sure living in Las Vegas, you are very aware of this.
Oh, no... Definitely VERY aware of this. I fly only very early in the morning and keep the plane in the shade. It would be really nice to live somewhere a little cooler so you can take the plane out more often!
@@TroyMcMillan I notice you printed the wing of this glider using PETG. That would really help with the heat problem, but I can't seem to keep the wing sections from warping and pulling away from the base plate (Artillery Sidewinder). I was using the Overture build surface and hairspray, but that didn't seem to help.....any ideas??
I'm building a EGW-80 and I tell you it's not easy to get your printer set up right! Took almost a full roll of PLA to get it right. It is worth it though! Another nice build!
Did you put a brake on the motor to stop the prop when you are gliding? I can see how a folding prop would be out of the question unless you hacked up a normal one and made your own.
You Can rewerse the Servo Direktion by opening the Servo, Switch the 2 outer wires of the Potentiometer and Switch the 2 Wires Motor polarity. Then you Can yose flaps with Y lead when you have no Space to put the Servo inverted.
On your list of "plane shop" purchases, should either be the parts to 3d print a chop saw or a mini chop saw/table saw. I cannot overstate how useful that kind of a tool is for stuff like this.
Hi Troy - Great video and a super flying model ! I will now order the print file ! Thanks for such an excellent building video - first class. Looking forward to building and flying this beauty. Best Regards & thanks - Eddie - Uk.
For this build I used the Artillery Sidewinder X1 it is a direct drive printer that works good for thin wall. Any printer with a 200x200x200mm build plate will work for all the planes on my channel. The Artillery Genius would be a good printer for all these planes.
there is problem in the wingtest file the rib inside aren't sow after slicing , i rely want to buy the model but i must know that I'm capable to print the wingtest properly .
8:57 Metal on metal: no Loctite? Or a drop of CA even? 22:49 Always transmitter first on and last off. Sorry don't want to sound preachy, but these are beginner mistakes (which can cost you an airplane ;).
Dear Troy: I´m finishing my ask-14. Same materials, same printer. Your print settings worked perfectly on my X1 artillery; so thank you very much for share! i have a question for you: Did you use same PLA print settings for the LW-PLA, or you changed anything? It will be my first time using LW-PLA and I would very gratefull with you if you could tell me about X1 Artillery LW-PLA settings for rudder and elevator. Thank you very much for your attention and supberb job! Best Regards. Flyingnurse. Spain.
That is awesome to hear the settings worked for you. For LW-PLA use 235C at 55% flow rate everything else keep the same. Have fun with the glider it is a fun build. Hello from Las Vegas
@@TroyMcMillan Dear Troy: I used again your LW-PLA settings and results were incredible! Better than my standard setup, only have to reduce temperature to 230ºC to have a perfect finish with the X1 sidewinder. I started to mount radio and only I have to print my TPU parts to finish my ASK-14. Any sugestion with TPU settings? What temperature are you using for TPU? Some people told me about to reduce tension (unscrew) on the extruder of X1 sidewinder to use it with flexible materials... Thanks again for your help. Best Regards.
@@javierlopez3721 For TPU even with the X1 I print it very slow around 20-30mm/s. 230C 10% Infill 2 walls 3 bottom layers 4 top layers I don't adjust my tension for the TPU I have mine set to a good setting that works with all the materials but if yours is set to tight or loose you may want to adjust it. Just set it to a good medium tension and then just leave it. If you notice it is not griping the TPU then tighten it up a bit. If you print it slow enough then you won't have a problem. Cheers
Thank you, Definitely recommend trying out one of these builds if you have a printer. In my opinion there is nothing cooler than 3d printing an entire airplane out. Good luck with your build. Definitely this one or the Tucano is my favorite. Cheers
@@terrencegoens1582 since December there are some annoying problems that are easy fixes, you can buy pretty much all the spare parts you need and I put a sky mini e3 v1.2 silent board in it and I will hopefully get the bl touch and a glass bed and then it will work really smoothly The key is to make sure your bed is perfectly levelled or that’s when the problems will happen.
@Thomas Stautner yeah but I got an ender 3 pro because there is more upgrades and mods and I like the look a bit more than the v2 dunno why but also because there wasn’t a difference in the print quality and it was cheaper
I bought the artillery X1 on your recommendation. Printing the Eagle now and it's doing a great job. Your magnet and hot knife links are broken. Just FYI
Hi Troy, you really didn't comment about your decals. Did you make these on your printer like in a prior video you released. Or did you cut it using something like a "Cricut"?
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks, Is the local company that you referred to, a common printing company or an outfit like FedEx office? Are those Vinyl or something more exotic?
Regarding the spoilers - I normally wire the spoilers to the motor control, and the engine on an aux control, as the spoiler is the more important control. But it is looking great.
I have a Creality CR-10 Smart, however I am having issues getting the settings right to eliminate the stringing, and z alignment right. Do you have any recommendations...
Dude, you are amazing. Keep rockin' it. This looks like a hell of a flyer and I'm thinking maybe that PlanePrint's got the lock on quality designs over certain other designers.
Thanks man, Ya this is an awesome flyer for sure definitely a fun one to add to the collection. Planeprint has really cool scale planes. I enjoy building his models for sure.
Hi Troy, one more stupid question... Do you have any recommended suppliers for 1.2mm Steel Rod? It looks like you need rods about 650-700 mm long, the longest I could find were 450 mm which will come up short for the elevator and rudders linkages. I found a supplier in Europe, but I would have to buy about $100 worth (US) as a minimum order. I'm hoping you can recommend a supplier that I can buy smaller qtys for the ASK14 and future planes. Thanks in advance.
I love your channel and ordered to plan STL files I am working on this one but my print adds strange lines and seems to be missing slots holes etc I am trying over while I wait on LW PLA for the other plane this time I turned up the quality to .16 and turned the fan down by 50% also 0% infill to see what happens
I think my issue was I tightened up the build plate to much to get rid off wobble so I loosened it some and greased the rails a little and made sure everything was perfectly level and fuselage 2 is coming out perfectly
Hi Troy! Fantastic job! Beautiful plane! Do you have any problem with solar heating the PLA em deforming it? Wouldn't be better to print all parts in ABS? I'm planning to print this plane using a Creality CR-10 v3 printer. Do you thing it would be appropriate fo this kind of job? Thanks in advance and congratulations again!
Thank you, I have had problems with the sun deforming PLA. I have problems printing these parts with ABS or PETG because I don't have an enclosure on my printer. If you can print the material ok on you CR10 then definitely would work a bit better. For myself I am just careful what time of day I go fly and park the planes in the shade when I am not flying them. Have fun with your build this is a fun plane.
Not every plane needs to be printed in LW-PLA. PLA is stronger and as long as the plane is designed correct then it does not need to be printed in LW-PLA. This plane works great with just regular PLA.
Cool stuff, Thx a lot for sharing! really like all your videos on 3 d printed planes ... 😎 ...greetings from germany... as i am new to 3d printing i am still missing the printer... my current consideration is to go for an ender 3 s1 pro or an elegoo neptune 4 pro...would you mind to share your opinion regarding printer selection ? -
Nice work! Im thinking of printing my own plane in hips filament. Do you have any experience using hips? I got an ender 3, do you think i need to ditch the bowden setup for direct drive to get the best results.?
Nah I have printed most of my planes with a bowden tube, it helps to have a direct drive but it will still work and you will still have quality prints. I haven't worked with hips!
A great review and build tutorial. The detail on getting the motor to fit is a huge help for people who may be in the same situation. Would you recommend this for someone's trainer? How much material did it take?
Fascinating, great job, when i was young i had an RC ASK16! But i have heard that PLA is not UV resistant, is there a problem of deformation when flying in summer or other damage when the material becomes older?
Oh that is cool! I haven't had any problems with deformation in the sun, you would become uncomfortable standing in the heat long before any damage occurs!! At least in my experience 😀
Think cats like the tranquility of the workshop ! My cat sits quiet happily watching me work . Excellent build A+
best aeroplane tutorial i have ever saw ....
Thank you
Nice video, you said it was too long but i watched it to the end
The tip stall is due to a lack of spiral stability, you were right that the tail seemed too small
Two ways to improve things without making a bigger tail: increase the length of your tail booms or reduce the length of the nose (remember that the longer the nose is the more area is in front of the lateral centre of area and the bigger the tail needs to be), you could always do both
Beautiful plane, love it
thank you :)
Wow... that is the precise engineering right there!!!!!!!
Yuri Boyka assembling an outstanding aircraft!!
You have these prints nailed!...and I know how much effort goes into that. Great job. I hope you get the eagle when it's available.
Thank you, Ya the eagle looks pretty cool for sure. Exited to print that one out with no retraction.
Looks like a cool build. I would probably print a plane with ABS for the heat resistance or ASA since it's UV stable and has good heat properties. PETG and PLA will work for a bit but after a hot day in a car they will both shrink and warp. I've been looking for some interesting builds to do someday like this.
you definitely could do that! I usually just fly in the early morning or evenings before sunset, and then keep it in the shade while setting it up for flight
Wondering why you didn't print it in pc?
Hello, I have a Ender 3 pro and used your settings to print this plane and it turned out great. I tried using the same setting to print out a 3dlab print F-86 and the walls are a little to thin. what setting should I change to get the walls to print a little thicker?. Thanks in advance.
Nice I am glad the setting worked for you for this build. The 3D lab print planes are hard to work with because they are designed to use simplify 3d as slicer software. That is one of the reasons I haven't build another one besides the 152 I did. If you want the walls thick try increasing the flow setting under the material table. Just keep bumping it up 5% until you get the desired wall thickness.
@@TroyMcMillan Thank you. I am printing the V-turn now and using the same settings you provided for the glider build. The settings also work very nicely for the V-turn also. Thank you again.
Your video is so clear to understand
I appreciate your feedback, thank you! Hope it helped
Mr Troy
Weight for ASK 14 empty WKR
Keld
Copenhagen dk 22:50
10:59 11:01 11:03
Fantastic build video! More complex than I thought, but what a beauty! Thank you for showing us the way.
Amazing project, I'm completely excited. Congratulations my friend.
Your vidéos are so cool... it seems so easy in your hands, thanks a lot for your tutos
PA glue fumes will polymerize on fingerprints, causing most of the fogging issues. Clean parts with alcohol and wear cloth gloves when handling parts where glue fumes will show.
Awesome model and great print 👍
Thank you
Excellent video!! Love that you provided links to all the parts and tools needed to complete the build although some are unavailable but there is nothing you can do about that. Also great that you provided printer settings which is a great start for those who need to get their printer dialed in.
Thank you, I try to keep a look out for products and check to make they are still in stock periodically. I hope the printer settings help too!!
I’m in Vegas also, where were you flying in this video. I see lake mead but which area? I won’t be part of an RC club so I need a place to fly larger planes
You don't need to be part of any club here in Vegas, just have your AMA. All the fields are really nice to fly on. There isn't any name that I see for this little field, but it is right next to the RV park in Lake Mead.
what airfoil does this use?
I was really looking forward to building this glider, but I found out the hard way today that this plane can only be flown in the winter, at least here in the American SW. I live in Arizona, and it's close to 100F today. This morning, I took an Eclipson Model A (printed with regular PLA) out for its maiden flight. Before we could even get it off the ground, the wings started warping....it was literally melting. LW PLA doesn't seem to have this problem. I'm sure living in Las Vegas, you are very aware of this.
Oh, no... Definitely VERY aware of this. I fly only very early in the morning and keep the plane in the shade. It would be really nice to live somewhere a little cooler so you can take the plane out more often!
@@TroyMcMillan I notice you printed the wing of this glider using PETG. That would really help with the heat problem, but I can't seem to keep the wing sections from warping and pulling away from the base plate (Artillery Sidewinder). I was using the Overture build surface and hairspray, but that didn't seem to help.....any ideas??
I wonder if the new belt printer would make a stronger plane as you can print the long wings all as one peice
Ive thought about it too, haven't tried it yet!
Troy, another solid build. Glad you had another success. I’m still struggling with the Panthera. But I’m determined to make it work.
Well filmed and explained . Nice glider 👍
Thank you
I'm building a EGW-80 and I tell you it's not easy to get your printer set up right! Took almost a full roll of PLA to get it right. It is worth it though! Another nice build!
It does take a bit for sure. My first build I definitely had a lot of failed prints.
Awesome Channel! What I find a little humorous is that the wheels are printed as well! LOL
caro troy hai fatto un lavorone complimenti vivissimi
Did you put a brake on the motor to stop the prop when you are gliding?
I can see how a folding prop would be out of the question unless you hacked up a normal one and made your own.
You Can rewerse the Servo Direktion by opening the Servo, Switch the 2 outer wires of the Potentiometer and Switch the 2 Wires Motor polarity. Then you Can yose flaps with Y lead when you have no Space to put the Servo inverted.
Excellent job of editing to keep it succinct without sacrificing clarity.
So much elevator authority! It looks beautiful. Very cool.
On your list of "plane shop" purchases, should either be the parts to 3d print a chop saw or a mini chop saw/table saw. I cannot overstate how useful that kind of a tool is for stuff like this.
I am proud of your creativity i like it verry much
Thank you
it turned out really beautiful, if it had a clear canopy it and a pilot it would look even better. well done.
very good way to make the plane
Can somebody tell mee how much a ASK14 weight .empty
WO radio
Many Thanks
Hi Troy - Great video and a super flying model ! I will now order the print file ! Thanks for such an excellent building video - first class. Looking forward to building and flying this beauty.
Best Regards & thanks - Eddie - Uk.
A source of inspiration. Really Nice work as usual
Thank you Thomas
Excellent build
Question: The settings you shared "Profile 3" - were those the settings for all the pieces and filaments on the X1?
with Cura.
Yes, those were the settings for the wing. The ONLY difference is the fuselage was printed out of PLA, so the print temp is 215C. Hope that helps!
120 hours to print ! A real challenge to my printer. But I appreciate very much for your detail work !
Damn dude, that was one serious build. Nice job!
Another excellent walk-through. I'm going to be busy for the next year with all the projects you're showing. Thanks.
Let me know how it goes!! These are fun projects to have :)
I noticed that you have two 3D printers what would be the best printer to print out this airplane with?
And other 3D airplanes as well 🤔
For this build I used the Artillery Sidewinder X1 it is a direct drive printer that works good for thin wall. Any printer with a 200x200x200mm build plate will work for all the planes on my channel. The Artillery Genius would be a good printer for all these planes.
there is problem in the wingtest file the rib inside aren't sow after slicing , i rely want to buy the model but i must know that I'm capable to print the wingtest properly .
Make sure all you setting are exactly as the grid under the print tab on plane prints web sight. www.planeprint.com/print
Do you printed all the plane in Pla ? And how much does it weight ?
the wing is PETG, the fuselage is PLA, and the elevator is LWPLA it weighs about 1700g
Great! Congratulations! Where can I find this kit to buy?
The STL files can be purchased from www.planeprint.com/ask14
Hello 👋
Did you bought the kit & designs?
A far cry from using balsa kits, push pins, Ambroid glue, wax paper and lots of time.
Now I'm googling Ambroid glue. I glued my first kit with Uhu Hart.
you make it look so easy , what is your favourite printer so far for your builds ?
l would love to see you slope soaring this great model.
Sei molto bravo , mi piacciono i tuoi video , complimenti
What dremel do you use? Would like to buy one if you think it is a good one.
I use a Dremel 4000! With an extension attachment from Dremel as well, it works great.
except printing, how long did it take you to actually put it together?
Maybe about a week, working on it for a couple hours a day. I don't have an exact time!
A awesome Rc Plane and video...
It is an awesome plane!
Pretty Slick...
8:57 Metal on metal: no Loctite? Or a drop of CA even?
22:49 Always transmitter first on and last off.
Sorry don't want to sound preachy, but these are beginner mistakes (which can cost you an airplane ;).
No worries thanks for your input!
Dear Troy:
I´m finishing my ask-14. Same materials, same printer. Your print settings worked perfectly on my X1 artillery; so thank you very much for share!
i have a question for you: Did you use same PLA print settings for the LW-PLA, or you changed anything? It will be my first time using LW-PLA and I would very gratefull with you if you could tell me about X1 Artillery LW-PLA settings for rudder and elevator.
Thank you very much for your attention and supberb job!
Best Regards.
Flyingnurse.
Spain.
That is awesome to hear the settings worked for you.
For LW-PLA use 235C at 55% flow rate everything else keep the same.
Have fun with the glider it is a fun build.
Hello from Las Vegas
@@TroyMcMillan Dear Troy: I used again your LW-PLA settings and results were incredible! Better than my standard setup, only have to reduce temperature to 230ºC to have a perfect finish with the X1 sidewinder. I started to mount radio and only I have to print my TPU parts to finish my ASK-14. Any sugestion with TPU settings? What temperature are you using for TPU? Some people told me about to reduce tension (unscrew) on the extruder of X1 sidewinder to use it with flexible materials...
Thanks again for your help.
Best Regards.
@@javierlopez3721 For TPU even with the X1 I print it very slow around 20-30mm/s.
230C
10% Infill
2 walls
3 bottom layers
4 top layers
I don't adjust my tension for the TPU I have mine set to a good setting that works with all the materials but if yours is set to tight or loose you may want to adjust it. Just set it to a good medium tension and then just leave it. If you notice it is not griping the TPU then tighten it up a bit. If you print it slow enough then you won't have a problem.
Cheers
where Can I buy thee decal set for the ASW-14 like you used on yours, Thank you, Joe
I love your videos so much dude and I think I’m gonna start printing some of these planes on my ender 3 pro.
Thank you, Definitely recommend trying out one of these builds if you have a printer. In my opinion there is nothing cooler than 3d printing an entire airplane out. Good luck with your build. Definitely this one or the Tucano is my favorite. Cheers
How long have you had your ender 3? I picked up a v2 back and December and had all kinds of problems ended up swapping out for a A5.
@@terrencegoens1582 since December there are some annoying problems that are easy fixes, you can buy pretty much all the spare parts you need and I put a sky mini e3 v1.2 silent board in it and I will hopefully get the bl touch and a glass bed and then it will work really smoothly
The key is to make sure your bed is perfectly levelled or that’s when the problems will happen.
@Thomas Stautner yeah but I got an ender 3 pro because there is more upgrades and mods and I like the look a bit more than the v2 dunno why but also because there wasn’t a difference in the print quality and it was cheaper
Excellent!!!!! Good job.
Hi.
Does the wing detachable ?
And how you secure them if they does ?
Thanks for sharing. Make me want to build one. I have 3D printer.
Very easy wing removal. Also super easy to put it back together and it secure. There is a TPU strap that holds the wings on. I hope you do!!
My friend, this is incredible, thank you, can you suggest which 3D printer I should get for this kind of thing???
Simply.... Fantastic!!!
I bought the artillery X1 on your recommendation. Printing the Eagle now and it's doing a great job.
Your magnet and hot knife links are broken. Just FYI
Thank you for letting me know about the links. I am glade to hear the sidewinder is working good for you. It is a great printer.
Hi Troy, you really didn't comment about your decals. Did you make these on your printer like in a prior video you released. Or did you cut it using something like a "Cricut"?
I used Gravity Designer to design them, then use a local company to print them. I might look into being able to start printing them myself soon tho.
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks, Is the local company that you referred to, a common printing company or an outfit like FedEx office? Are those Vinyl or something more exotic?
@@K5azz It is just a local company, it took a few attempts to figure out the material that sticks best to PLA... It is 3M High Stick.
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks Troy!
Regarding the spoilers - I normally wire the spoilers to the motor control, and the engine on an aux control, as the spoiler is the more important control. But it is looking great.
I have a Creality CR-10 Smart, however I am having issues getting the settings right to eliminate the stringing, and z alignment right. Do you have any recommendations...
Are you flying in Ca or Ari. The water looks great in the bkgd. Great video. Cheers.
have we can mount the propeller at the back of the rc plane???
TC 920 looks like TC 99 technetium is the element 99 from the periodic table .... fantastic
Just when I think you couldn't possibly go in to more detail... Thanks!
Dude, you are amazing. Keep rockin' it. This looks like a hell of a flyer and I'm thinking maybe that PlanePrint's got the lock on quality designs over certain other designers.
Thanks man, Ya this is an awesome flyer for sure definitely a fun one to add to the collection. Planeprint has really cool scale planes. I enjoy building his models for sure.
Hi Troy, one more stupid question... Do you have any recommended suppliers for 1.2mm Steel Rod? It looks like you need rods about 650-700 mm long, the longest I could find were 450 mm which will come up short for the elevator and rudders linkages. I found a supplier in Europe, but I would have to buy about $100 worth (US) as a minimum order. I'm hoping you can recommend a supplier that I can buy smaller qtys for the ASK14 and future planes. Thanks in advance.
Yeah, I use Ace Hardware - it is 1.19mm music wire by K&S Precision Metals
@@TroyMcMillan Thanks Troy, you just saved me about $60... I'd send you same cash for a coffee or a drink if you had a tip jar ;-)
@@K5azz I am SO glad I could help! I have a buy me a coffee page, if that's what you mean?
@@TroyMcMillan Sent a few coffee's your way.. Thanks Troy...
@@K5azz Thank you so much, I really appreciate that!!
I love your channel and ordered to plan STL files I am working on this one but my print adds strange lines and seems to be missing slots holes etc I am trying over while I wait on LW PLA for the other plane this time I turned up the quality to .16 and turned the fan down by 50% also 0% infill to see what happens
I think my issue was I tightened up the build plate to much to get rid off wobble so I loosened it some and greased the rails a little and made sure everything was perfectly level and fuselage 2 is coming out perfectly
A guy on fb planeprint page made this. He has alot of flex in the wing. Does yours flex alot?
Yes it does flex a lot!
Mr Troy
How much weight for the empty plane
Wkr.
Keld
Copenhagen DK
Nice job mate sick
Hi Troy! Fantastic job! Beautiful plane! Do you have any problem with solar heating the PLA em deforming it? Wouldn't be better to print all parts in ABS? I'm planning to print this plane using a Creality CR-10 v3 printer. Do you thing it would be appropriate fo this kind of job? Thanks in advance and congratulations again!
Thank you, I have had problems with the sun deforming PLA. I have problems printing these parts with ABS or PETG because I don't have an enclosure on my printer. If you can print the material ok on you CR10 then definitely would work a bit better. For myself I am just careful what time of day I go fly and park the planes in the shade when I am not flying them. Have fun with your build this is a fun plane.
Why didn't you print everything in lwPLA? The purpose of a fixer is to be the lightest possible (except for f3k where you have to ballast it)
Not every plane needs to be printed in LW-PLA. PLA is stronger and as long as the plane is designed correct then it does not need to be printed in LW-PLA. This plane works great with just regular PLA.
great job
Amazing job!
use glass on your printer bed and 3dLac, I have printed so many wings with PETG, no brims, they just stuck down so hard, no warping.
You are a profesor i am proud
I wondering if one could 3D print the propeller?!?! would it be strong enough for such high rpm?!
It is possible to 3d print a propeller but I would not try this for a build like this.
Great work Troy.
Great video. Inspired me to make my first 3d printed plane. Thanks. 🇬🇧
Great project, what software did u use to make it? And is there possibility to get step files to modify it for personal use?
The design of the glider is from Planeprint the STL files can be purchased from www.planeprint.com/ask14
Awesome Project,, I'm sure that you had "an Experience" putting it together..
Why did I NOT see the thing Landing though!!......Did Ya snap it in 2???
Cool stuff, Thx a lot for sharing! really like all your videos on 3 d printed planes ... 😎 ...greetings from germany... as i am new to 3d printing i am still missing the printer... my current consideration is to go for an ender 3 s1 pro or an elegoo neptune 4 pro...would you mind to share your opinion regarding printer selection ? -
Nice work! Im thinking of printing my own plane in hips filament. Do you have any experience using hips?
I got an ender 3, do you think i need to ditch the bowden setup for direct drive to get the best results.?
Nah I have printed most of my planes with a bowden tube, it helps to have a direct drive but it will still work and you will still have quality prints. I haven't worked with hips!
What brand or type of 3D printer is perfect and ideal for this job?
amazing build Troy love the details great build video also looking forward to the next all ready
take care
Thank you Robert
A great review and build tutorial. The detail on getting the motor to fit is a huge help for people who may be in the same situation. Would you recommend this for someone's trainer? How much material did it take?
LOL, love the cat supervisor.
He keeps a tight schedule! haha :)
Excellent bro... 💓💓💓💓
This looks awesome. I've been trying to find a really big wing design because I want a platform that would have the space for lots of solar panels.
Wow good luck! It is a huge wing. Let me know how it goes!
What was the print time for all of the 3D printed component pieces needed to assemble the plane?
very cool
Fascinating, great job, when i was young i had an RC ASK16! But i have heard that PLA is not UV resistant, is there a problem of deformation when flying in summer or other damage when the material becomes older?
Oh that is cool! I haven't had any problems with deformation in the sun, you would become uncomfortable standing in the heat long before any damage occurs!! At least in my experience 😀
What are the dimensions of all the hardware like the carbon fiber tube?
any folding prop can be use?
No, the cowling is too wide on the front to have a folding prop unfortunately