David I have just tried your method of sharpening I’ve never had a plane/chisel edges so good only went up to 8000 wet stone,that’s better then I’ve ever got before, thanks for the video it’s helped me to obtain the edge I’ve always wanted.
Mr Charlesworth, when using the honing guide. you appear to apply pressure only on the pull stroke. Is that to protect the stone against accidental gouging?
This thread is another example of people on the internet who have no idea who the person is that they're commenting about. David is not some hack 2x4 framing carpenter.
Hi David. New to woodworking and just finding my feet... and your videos. Thank you. Question on honing guides? The one you have there, and on your planing vids, looks like a serious piece of kit... what is it (them?) please?
I 'discovered' water stones some 6 months back. It's an absolute joy - almost a religious experience. My problem now is findingd enough things to sharpen! One thing I'm less keen on is that removing the wire after honing does mess up one's stones a little. I wonder whether it's worth doing this seperately on a diamond card, say a 1200 grit?
I think your wire edge may be larger than necessary. You see me dragging the back onto the corner of the polishing stone. This is to ensure the wire edge is not trapped underneath. Stones need flattening all the time, so I have not had this problem. Hope this helps, David
If the back of the plane blade is polished enough to start with (hone back first, if necessary), and if you polish the bevel to high enough grit (chromium strop), i find the wire edge will clean break off on one pass, flat on the fine stone. Or even if you rub your fingers across the back of thr blade, past the edge.
Tony, 8,000 grit is totally satisfactory, I used one for years. When it wore out I got the 10,000, which is very nice. The difference between the micron grit size of the two is very small. Best wishes.
He may have to sharpen those daggers for finger nails while he’s at it. He could probably cut a full set of half blind dovetails for a drawer with those bad boys.
Sad that the opportunity to explain what is happening (by talking while doing) has not been taken. Without a running commentary all we see is someone moving things about on a bench. Those that see more, probably don't need the video so much as those that are left a bit baffled. For example what kinds of abrasives are those? Is the sprayed fluid simply water ? What is the angle of the chisel - presumably there is an angle involved, it's important enough to warrant the use of a frame ? What is the distance you are measuring before you are done setting the chisel in the frame ?
The only aim was to show that sharpening should be fast. The full story for chisels is on my fourth DVD and for plane blades on my first. They are both much longer! David
Well it's an interesting comment, but then I've never heard of you and a significant percentage of the community of "serious" woodworkers in the western world (not hackers or site joiners to whom a gap of 5mm in a joint is acceptable) have heard of and learned important skills from David C. So... yeah, your comment, invalid.
Leslie Cherrington I'm just an apprentice but I swear to christ every journeyman who has said this to me I don't take seriously a honing guide is to aid the accuracy of the grind and honing angle so it can slice and pare the wood fibers rather than bull it's way around timber as it would even with a minuscule round or uneven pressure
Im time served joiner retired now we was shown how to sharpen the real way i bought one it was took of ne and never saw it again good lesson i say do it by hand till its right you will never look back
my first journeyman had pocketed it and I'm glad he did, it was to make an example, and because he did, i did learn to do it the old school way i understand how good a skill for my career it was because there is a knack and it does take a great deal of skill, although having done both, and given the choice, i would go for the honing guide its a great piece of kit and i will never understand the stigma around it, i feel we all however can agree that the guide has its place, perhaps not in every tradespersons toolbox but no matter the opinion of the tool, it is fact that it is, to the sharpening stone as is a fence is to a saw. cheers for your advice though sir i'll certainly take on board what you've said as I'm only second year I've still a lot to learn as of yet
David I have just tried your method of sharpening I’ve never had a plane/chisel edges so good only went up to 8000 wet stone,that’s better then I’ve ever got before, thanks for the video it’s helped me to obtain the edge I’ve always wanted.
Michael, delighted to hear it.
8,000 grit is a very nice polishing stone. 10 and 15 thousand are only very slightly better.
Hope you are well David, always a pleasure watching your instructive videos. Keep Safe.
Mr Charlesworth, when using the honing guide. you appear to apply pressure only on the pull stroke. Is that to protect the stone against accidental gouging?
This thread is another example of people on the internet who have no idea who the person is that they're commenting about. David is not some hack 2x4 framing carpenter.
Thanks
Hi David. New to woodworking and just finding my feet... and your videos. Thank you. Question on honing guides? The one you have there, and on your planing vids, looks like a serious piece of kit... what is it (them?) please?
Craig,
it is the Lie-Nielsen guide.
David
I 'discovered' water stones some 6 months back. It's an absolute joy - almost a religious experience. My problem now is findingd enough things to sharpen! One thing I'm less keen on is that removing the wire after honing does mess up one's stones a little. I wonder whether it's worth doing this seperately on a diamond card, say a 1200 grit?
I think your wire edge may be larger than necessary.
You see me dragging the back onto the corner of the polishing stone. This is to ensure the wire edge is not trapped underneath.
Stones need flattening all the time, so I have not had this problem.
Hope this helps,
David
Think you may be right about me honing too much - I've since honed my honing!!!! Thanks
If the back of the plane blade is polished enough to start with (hone back first, if necessary), and if you polish the bevel to high enough grit (chromium strop), i find the wire edge will clean break off on one pass, flat on the fine stone. Or even if you rub your fingers across the back of thr blade, past the edge.
I have Worksharp sharpener that I use of initial sharpening. I want to purchase waterstones to finish off. Would 1500 and 8000 work?
Gary,
8,000 excellent. you might find 1500 a little slow, but I'm not sure about this.
I use 8oo.
Best wishes,
David
Hello. why after grind by back you no use timber wood to be good blade
absolute legend.
Hi David,
what brand stones are you using?
what is that little block you used to dress the fine stone at 1:27?
Baxter
King 800 as the coarse stone and King 10,000 as the polishing stone. The small one is a Nagura, which comes with the polishing stone.
David
So David, you are telling me you regularly go straight from an 800 to a 10,000 stone?
@@jonspracklen3738 yes he does. He puts a microbevel so small it comes off on the 800 grit stone later on.
Hi David
Is 10 000 too fine? I was going to get a double sided 1000 / 6000 and a 10,000 for the finishing.
Tony,
8,000 grit is totally satisfactory, I used one for years.
When it wore out I got the 10,000, which is very nice.
The difference between the micron grit size of the two is very small.
Best wishes.
Welcome Baraka
What do you set the primary and secondary bevel to.
I grind at 25 degrees, get a wire edge on an 800 stone at 30 degrees, and then polish on 10,000 at 32 degrees.
David
great
He may have to sharpen those daggers for finger nails while he’s at it. He could probably cut a full set of half blind dovetails for a drawer with those bad boys.
Slowest fastest sharpening ever
Sad that the opportunity to explain what is happening (by talking while doing) has not been taken. Without a running commentary all we see is someone moving things about on a bench. Those that see more, probably don't need the video so much as those that are left a bit baffled. For example what kinds of abrasives are those? Is the sprayed fluid simply water ? What is the angle of the chisel - presumably there is an angle involved, it's important enough to warrant the use of a frame ? What is the distance you are measuring before you are done setting the chisel in the frame ?
Or, just maybe, this wasn't meant as a comprehensive sharpening instructional video...
The only aim was to show that sharpening should be fast.
The full story for chisels is on my fourth DVD and for plane blades on my first.
They are both much longer!
David
@@DavidCharlesworth
Does your dvd's cover restoration of old chisels/planes, which are in poor condition?
A real trades man don't use honing guides
Well it's an interesting comment, but then I've never heard of you and a significant percentage of the community of "serious" woodworkers in the western world (not hackers or site joiners to whom a gap of 5mm in a joint is acceptable) have heard of and learned important skills from David C. So... yeah, your comment, invalid.
Leslie Cherrington I'm just an apprentice but I swear to christ every journeyman who has said this to me I don't take seriously a honing guide is to aid the accuracy of the grind and honing angle so it can slice and pare the wood fibers rather than bull it's way around timber as it would even with a minuscule round or uneven pressure
Im time served joiner retired now we was shown how to sharpen the real way i bought one it was took of ne and never saw it again good lesson i say do it by hand till its right you will never look back
my first journeyman had pocketed it and I'm glad he did, it was to make an example, and because he did, i did learn to do it the old school way i understand how good a skill for my career it was because there is a knack and it does take a great deal of skill, although having done both, and given the choice, i would go for the honing guide its a great piece of kit and i will never understand the stigma around it, i feel we all however can agree that the guide has its place, perhaps not in every tradespersons toolbox but no matter the opinion of the tool, it is fact that it is, to the sharpening stone as is a fence is to a saw. cheers for your advice though sir i'll certainly take on board what you've said as I'm only second year I've still a lot to learn as of yet
Some real tradesmen use honing guides, and some don't. Some real tradesmen have big mouths, and some don't. Big mouths don't build cabinets.
Thanks