I grew up with Danny Kwock, and Preston Murray ripping this spot to shreads! Kwocl even tried hoys hand surfing the Wedge- which at the time was considered "unsurfable" It was a reknow apot for body surfing and knee boarding. I consider myself lucky to have watched Ron Romanosky shread giants Wedge on a knee board.
Yeah Henry is back💪🏻. At 3:20 it's bigger than 5-6ft. In every video I'am writing y = A * sin(wt). Wave height is 2 times amplitude (A). Surfers answers. What's amplitude. 🤣. Looks like surfers don't know how to meassuring wave height physically correct.
Hi Oliver, at least the lifeguard gave the wave period 5 to 6 feet "18 secs". I think that helps more than the usual head high, shoulder high, backs, Hawaiian etc.. I personally like breaking wave face peak "trough to crest"..
@@henryssurfshowcase definitly better than the other scales. So 5-6 ft with 18sec periode sounds like avarage wave height and long periode. Means sets are definitly bigger. 💪🏻
I went to Redondo Breakwater dawn patrol. Good size, easy 15 foot wave faces trough to crest. Nobody out until about 9:45am when tide dropped a little, then 4 guys. I was there until noon, sunny light offshore wind until about 11:30am then variable NW light. Even with high tide early 5.9 it was good! I thought it was biggest and best early, although sets kept coming in when tide was dropping, Swell direction just under west 265 degrees? I will post some video, but may take a week? I got busy catching up on things, but I was there. It was an awesome day anyway you look at it with basically primo weather!!..
Look at that crowd out for walled up junk. I grew up there, '69-'89, it does turn on, but this is what it is most of the time. Trestles if filled up too, maybe The Point? Or Doheny.....
Yes it was strange, 56 was not that good on this swell! I was there the day before in afternoon when it started to hit ( ending section of this video part) Swell was peaking morning through noon, beginning part of video- not that good and hardly any Tubes ..
I grew up with Danny Kwock, and Preston Murray ripping this spot to shreads! Kwocl even tried hoys hand surfing the Wedge- which at the time was considered "unsurfable" It was a reknow apot for body surfing and knee boarding. I consider myself lucky to have watched Ron Romanosky shread giants Wedge on a knee board.
Vegas checking in
Great day at Newport guys look happy
Decent day and like usual the only cool dudes there are the dolphins!
Love your band NoppeN!
If I see a dolphin while surfing I skedaddle in 0 seconds lol
Yeah Henry is back💪🏻. At 3:20 it's bigger than 5-6ft. In every video I'am writing
y = A * sin(wt). Wave height is 2 times amplitude (A). Surfers answers. What's amplitude. 🤣. Looks like surfers don't know how to meassuring wave height physically correct.
Hi Oliver, at least the lifeguard gave the wave period 5 to 6 feet "18 secs". I think that helps more than the usual head high, shoulder high, backs, Hawaiian etc..
I personally like breaking wave face peak "trough to crest"..
@@henryssurfshowcase definitly better than the other scales. So 5-6 ft with 18sec periode sounds like avarage wave height and long periode. Means sets are definitly bigger. 💪🏻
Hell ya man
What's up oliver
Wea u at n da report for 1/6/23 braddah??
I went to Redondo Breakwater dawn patrol. Good size, easy 15 foot wave faces trough to crest. Nobody out until about 9:45am when tide dropped a little, then 4 guys. I was there until noon, sunny light offshore wind until about 11:30am then variable NW light.
Even with high tide early 5.9 it was good! I thought it was biggest and best early, although sets kept coming in when tide was dropping, Swell direction just under west 265 degrees?
I will post some video, but may take a week? I got busy catching up on things, but I was there. It was an awesome day anyway you look at it with basically primo weather!!..
Damn damn sweetass! What length board did u ride? Mahalo for the details!
Look at that crowd out for walled up junk. I grew up there, '69-'89, it does turn on, but this is what it is most of the time. Trestles if filled up too, maybe The Point? Or Doheny.....
Or Palm Springs? LOL
The crowd is terrible there, yes. It is more powerful than the surrounding breaks for sure though. 56th is also a great place to get dropped in on.
Ur fun
What happened to all the guys who used to rip there?
We all had to get jobs. Lol😂😂
Rad
🐬 1:36
For "epic" 56th St this is junk. I've had some of my best waves all time at this spot and not one of these would make the Top 30!!
I was at rjs waaaay better
Yes it was strange, 56 was not that good on this swell!
I was there the day before in afternoon when it started to hit ( ending section of this video part) Swell was peaking morning through noon, beginning part of video- not that good and hardly any Tubes ..