First spindle arbour I have been able to see on YT, thanks. Of course the one I might be dealing with is from a full sized 60's vertical mill . But this just what the doctor ordered as I decide on whether to spend $500 on regrinding the B&S#9 to an R8
Russ, glad to see you back! I hope your cold decides to leave soon. Lots of cleverness in this video...from the pin spanner to the use of an endmill as a boring bar. The mod of the bearing puller was cool too...only advantage to cheap tools...you don't mind cutting on them when you need to! I'm still wishing for a mill, but I recently bought a used South Bend 9" lathe so I'm having fun trying out some of what I've been watching for months. It's amazing what you can learn on UA-cam. Thanks for sharing your upgrade experience...I know I'll be watching it again someday when I get that mill. -- Mike
Thank you very much! It was a bit of a nightmare and also nice to overcome. Very cool about you lathe. I would love something old like a Southbend or even an atlas. I'll probably be going bigger next time :)
Good video russ, i'm in the middle of converting my G0704 to CNC and will be doing the belt drive in the future. Once you post all the videos and work out the kinks:).
Thanks! It makes a horrible nightmare of a chip, but you can really plow through material. This was a 2 flute high speed steel end mill intended for use in aluminum only.
So far so good, I think I set the upper spindle too deep in the head though. It wasn't spinning smoothly so I tapped it back up a hair and now it seems better. We'll see how it goes once it's run in a bit. Definitely much quieter than it was and measuring runout on the inside of the R8 taper I'm getting less than 0.001".
I took a pair of slip joint pliers and drilled a hole in each jaw, threaded the holes 8-32 IIRC and used 2 SHCP's to engage the ring. Unscrew the screws and the pliers function as normal. The slip joints and the fact that they are pliers allows possibilities of large rings too.
Cool, thanks Russ. I just did this upgrade a few weeks back. Interesting that your retaining nuts were on there so tight, Mine came off pretty easily. My mill i only 3 months old, so maybe they tighten up with time? Yea, it was painful for me to order that Kluber grease also, and I used a similar serenge/needle setup. Looking forward to your next video...
just place the quill/spindle assembly in the vise. next use the spindle lock tool and a hammer. place the tool in the pin holes (not the threaded holes) on washer nuts and lightly tap with a hammer counter clockwise
Hoss web site, link in the description. For the spindle he says ".5cc for the upper and 1cc for the lower bearing". I tried to use the syringe method to get my grease installed, but had little luck. In the end I just put some in and have no idea how much it was. The idea is to use a small amount instead of packing them full.
Like the tool, tryed to make the same but with screws, seems that the cup is pretty tight to unscrew ti with a bolt, all bolt's bended and i will try to turn some tool, did you use mild steel for the pind or something else?
If you need a pin spanner just drill 2 holes in the end of a piece of thick walled scrap DOM pipe then insert some steel spin stock than slide that over the spindle shaft and turn the nut out.
Russ, I'm in the process of replacing the bearing on a Okamoto surface grinder. YES, it does have a big effect on how much lubricant you use on bearings. While it may not have very much effect on the stock machine it will when you keep upping the RPM's such as you stated. Do yourself a favor and do some research. It's different for each type of bearing, size, speed, and load. Good luck.
+Mike C. Thanks Mike. I spent a bunch of time working that out using the Kluber specifications for my bearing size, RPM, etc. In the end, it was to difficult to get a precise amount on the bearing so I guess we'll see how long it lasts :)
Hi Russ- I broke-down my spindle today and found that your video was spot on. I did make a pin spinner per your pictures. Never did find your drawing, but got concept and made it using 9/16 round stock, worked like a champ. I wanted to ask you if you, or anyone else has figured out a way to grease these spindle bearings? When I disassembled I found grease everywhere inside the spindle, except for on the bearings.. my machine is only about a year and a half old, but bottom bearing was really getting hot even running with no load. But I can sure se why now that I found it bone dry. I am really surprised that it didn't seize. Thanks for the video Howard
Hey Howard. I'm glad the video was helpful, and yes it looks like my Dropbox is missing the files for the spanner I made. I'll try and get that added if I can find it. As for the bearings, I just rebuilt my spindle again because I smoked my lower bearing too (I'm pretty sure my flood coolant washed out all of the grease) and I bought a set of syringes to get the grease inside the bearings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ECIVAFE
hi i want to make spindle and drow bar to my homemade mill machine can you tell me the size of spindle ..bearing ..drow bar thread ets or if you have plan or Sketch to make the mill head ?? thanks
The bearings are mentioned in the video, so you should be able to find the specs online pretty easily. As for the head, spindle, and drawbar, I do not have detailed drawings but I know there is a guy online who sells a very detailed model of the BF20 mill, which is similar to my G0704. I can't seem to find it though so you may need to just spend some time searching. I think he sells the CAD model for $20 or so.
I don't mean to sound like a familiar broken record, but studies have demonstrated that vitamin C does significantly reduce the length of colds, in many cases as much as half. It's always worth it to make sure you get a good dose of it every day while you have a cold.
why did you change out the taper bearing for a roller bearing on the mill shaft ? they use a taper bearing on the work end of the shaft so the side play can be taken out through bearing load adjustment. I don't understand why you changed this ? any side play you have or develope over time from wear you now cannot remove because the taper bearing is on the wrong end of the shaft.
I really don't remember. I think Hoss did it to his and I figured why not. The AC bearings had large runout though so I eventually went back to tapered.
Hi Ross, just buy my mill and would like to start changing parts. I would like know if you can give me in writing the name of the webside because I have problems with my English thanks
hello sir, I need your help,,,,, spindles always fascinates me,,,,,,can you guide in basics of spindle design. because its in field of spindle design wish to make my carreer
+niketan zode I'm not really the guy to ask, as my own experience with spindles is rebuilding this one. I am sure there is a lot of good information on the internet but you'll have to do some digging. Good luck.
Pretty sure they used a screw to index the collet, so that when you eventually manage to jam it up there hard and break it off... you can at least repair it instead of replacing it! :)
You and a lot of your viewers may already know this, but for the rest, they can pick up an adjustable spanner wrench at any accomplished tool shop or online. www.google.com/search?q=Adjustable+Face+Spanner&rlz=1C1TSNP_enUS610US610&oq=Adjustable+Face+Spanner&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8
Thanks for the link! I checked everywhere in my area and couldn't find one that came close to fitting this job. If anyone has a link to a spanner they have used on this rebuild I will be happy to annotate the video :)
russtuff You're welcome. Just about any of those wrenches annotated in the link would work. However, it helps to get the right pin size, to avoid slippage and bent knuckles. I used to use these a lot when I was in the military, repairing weapons.
Any ball screw nut or shaft inquiry? Wei Tai Transmission Limited Company is the head office in Taipei and acts for all of international trade activities to handle the shipment supplied from Shen-Han Shenzhen factory. We are looking for the new customers in your regions and it’s thankful if you can give us a chance to work together with. Please feel free to contact the following: Wei Tai Transmission Limited Company Email: 02weitai.ltd@gmail.com We chat ID: w0978377508 You tube: ua-cam.com/video/-8kBVM4JCBg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/jQW23Bx59WQ/v-deo.html Website: www.weitaitw.com/en/ball-screw-nut.html www.weitaitransmission.com FB: facebook.com/hung.nora.3 Cell phone: +886978377508 Address: No. 214-3, Zhou Mei Street, Bei Tou District, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel# 886-2-28326773 FAX:886-2-28327852
Good to see you back Rus! Great video and I gotta say that making your on tools for things like that are perfect. Get-R-Done 👍
thanks!
First spindle arbour I have been able to see on YT, thanks. Of course the one I might be dealing with is from a full sized 60's vertical mill . But this just what the doctor ordered as I decide on whether to spend $500 on regrinding the B&S#9 to an R8
Russ, glad to see you back! I hope your cold decides to leave soon. Lots of cleverness in this video...from the pin spanner to the use of an endmill as a boring bar. The mod of the bearing puller was cool too...only advantage to cheap tools...you don't mind cutting on them when you need to!
I'm still wishing for a mill, but I recently bought a used South Bend 9" lathe so I'm having fun trying out some of what I've been watching for months. It's amazing what you can learn on UA-cam.
Thanks for sharing your upgrade experience...I know I'll be watching it again someday when I get that mill.
-- Mike
Thank you very much! It was a bit of a nightmare and also nice to overcome. Very cool about you lathe. I would love something old like a Southbend or even an atlas. I'll probably be going bigger next time :)
Glad your back. I've been thinking of sending you a message to see how your stuff was going
Thanks! It's about time eh?
Thanks Rus really appreciate the explanation.
NOTE! He then reverted to Tapered Bearings
Good video russ, i'm in the middle of converting my G0704 to CNC and will be doing the belt drive in the future. Once you post all the videos and work out the kinks:).
Wait for your next video ! Thanks you
Nice use of a slot drill (end mill) for boring. Never seen that before. Will definitely be giving that a go.
Thanks! It makes a horrible nightmare of a chip, but you can really plow through material. This was a 2 flute high speed steel end mill intended for use in aluminum only.
Great video Rus, my new bearings are en route and hopefully should be installed this weekend.
Awesome! I hope it goes smoothly :)
So far so good, I think I set the upper spindle too deep in the head though. It wasn't spinning smoothly so I tapped it back up a hair and now it seems better. We'll see how it goes once it's run in a bit. Definitely much quieter than it was and measuring runout on the inside of the R8 taper I'm getting less than 0.001".
***** Nice. I'm glad it's working so well.
Dan Cech
I took a pair of slip joint pliers and drilled a hole in each jaw, threaded the holes 8-32 IIRC and used 2 SHCP's to engage the ring. Unscrew the screws and the pliers function as normal. The slip joints and the fact that they are pliers allows possibilities of large rings too.
AWESOME!!!
Welcome back Russ.
Thanks!
Nice video man!
Great video!
Cool, thanks Russ. I just did this upgrade a few weeks back. Interesting that your retaining nuts were on there so tight, Mine came off pretty easily. My mill i only 3 months old, so maybe they tighten up with time? Yea, it was painful for me to order that Kluber grease also, and I used a similar serenge/needle setup. Looking forward to your next video...
Lucky! I wish mine would have been easier. I spent at least a couple of hours messing around before deciding to make that dumb spanner.
Thanks for the video Rus. Could you explain preload a little more. I am somewhat confused as to what it is and when it should be used.
thank you for the excellent video.
Thanks for watching!
I have found with standard 3-jaw pullers that a more expensive one may not necessarily work better...
just place the quill/spindle assembly in the vise. next use the spindle lock tool and a hammer. place the tool in the pin holes (not the threaded holes) on washer nuts and lightly tap with a hammer counter clockwise
where did you find the bearing lubrication amount specs? I got the same bearing from VXB, and I can't find a grease quantity anywhere
Hoss web site, link in the description. For the spindle he says ".5cc for the upper and 1cc for the lower bearing". I tried to use the syringe method to get my grease installed, but had little luck. In the end I just put some in and have no idea how much it was. The idea is to use a small amount instead of packing them full.
Like the tool, tryed to make the same but with screws, seems that the cup is pretty tight to unscrew ti with a bolt, all bolt's bended and i will try to turn some tool, did you use mild steel for the pind or something else?
I'm pretty sure I used 4340 for the pins, but i don't recall heat treating them.
If you need a pin spanner just drill 2 holes in the end of a piece of thick walled scrap DOM pipe then insert some steel spin stock than slide that over the spindle shaft and turn the nut out.
Russ, I'm in the process of replacing the bearing on a Okamoto surface grinder. YES, it does have a big effect on how much lubricant you use on bearings. While it may not have very much effect on the stock machine it will when you keep upping the RPM's such as you stated. Do yourself a favor and do some research. It's different for each type of bearing, size, speed, and load. Good luck.
+Mike C. Thanks Mike. I spent a bunch of time working that out using the Kluber specifications for my bearing size, RPM, etc. In the end, it was to difficult to get a precise amount on the bearing so I guess we'll see how long it lasts :)
Hi Russ- I broke-down my spindle today and found that your video was spot on. I did make a pin spinner per your pictures. Never did find your drawing, but got concept and made it using 9/16 round stock, worked like a champ. I wanted to ask you if you, or anyone else has figured out a way to grease these spindle bearings? When I disassembled I found grease everywhere inside the spindle, except for on the bearings.. my machine is only about a year and a half old, but bottom bearing was really getting hot even running with no load. But I can sure se why now that I found it bone dry. I am really surprised that it didn't seize. Thanks for the video Howard
Hey Howard. I'm glad the video was helpful, and yes it looks like my Dropbox is missing the files for the spanner I made. I'll try and get that added if I can find it.
As for the bearings, I just rebuilt my spindle again because I smoked my lower bearing too (I'm pretty sure my flood coolant washed out all of the grease) and I bought a set of syringes to get the grease inside the bearings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ECIVAFE
hi
i want to make spindle and drow bar to my homemade mill machine
can you tell me the size of spindle ..bearing ..drow bar thread ets
or if you have plan or Sketch to make the mill head ??
thanks
The bearings are mentioned in the video, so you should be able to find the specs online pretty easily. As for the head, spindle, and drawbar, I do not have detailed drawings but I know there is a guy online who sells a very detailed model of the BF20 mill, which is similar to my G0704. I can't seem to find it though so you may need to just spend some time searching. I think he sells the CAD model for $20 or so.
thank you
I don't mean to sound like a familiar broken record, but studies have demonstrated that vitamin C does significantly reduce the length of colds, in many cases as much as half. It's always worth it to make sure you get a good dose of it every day while you have a cold.
why did you change out the taper bearing for a roller bearing on the mill shaft ? they use a taper bearing on the work end of the shaft so the side play can be taken out through bearing load adjustment. I don't understand why you changed this ? any side play you have or develope over time from wear you now cannot remove because the taper bearing is on the wrong end of the shaft.
I really don't remember. I think Hoss did it to his and I figured why not. The AC bearings had large runout though so I eventually went back to tapered.
I do really think the original's luck more robust than those angular bearings. Do someone run spec in the originals vs these Nachi.
The preload specs are in your manual you should have got with the machine.
Hi Ross, just buy my mill and would like to start changing parts. I would like know if you can give me in writing the name of the webside because I have problems with my English thanks
Roque Hernandez To Hoss' Website? I put it in the video description ;)
just a heads up your hoss belt-drive link doesn't work
Thanks, fixed it.
hello sir, I need your help,,,,, spindles always fascinates me,,,,,,can you guide in basics of spindle design. because its in field of spindle design wish to make my carreer
+niketan zode I'm not really the guy to ask, as my own experience with spindles is rebuilding this one. I am sure there is a lot of good information on the internet but you'll have to do some digging. Good luck.
Oil hol drilmachin z-axis spindle repair video
Pretty sure they used a screw to index the collet, so that when you eventually manage to jam it up there hard and break it off... you can at least repair it instead of replacing it! :)
Oh yeah that makes sense. Thanks!
You and a lot of your viewers may already know this, but for the rest, they can pick up an adjustable spanner wrench at any accomplished tool shop or online.
www.google.com/search?q=Adjustable+Face+Spanner&rlz=1C1TSNP_enUS610US610&oq=Adjustable+Face+Spanner&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8
Thanks for the link! I checked everywhere in my area and couldn't find one that came close to fitting this job. If anyone has a link to a spanner they have used on this rebuild I will be happy to annotate the video :)
russtuff You're welcome. Just about any of those wrenches annotated in the link would work. However, it helps to get the right pin size, to avoid slippage and bent knuckles. I used to use these a lot when I was in the military, repairing weapons.
hi sir.. help me.. link down die.... :(
Hello. Which link do you need?
+russtuff could you share baseplate/mechanical drawing once again? Google drive link below video is dead.
Good catch. I'll update it tonight and let you know.
Link is updated.
Any ball screw nut or shaft inquiry?
Wei Tai Transmission Limited Company is the head office
in Taipei and acts for all of international trade activities to handle the
shipment supplied from Shen-Han Shenzhen factory. We are looking for the
new customers in your regions and it’s thankful if you can give us a chance to
work together with. Please feel free to contact the following:
Wei Tai Transmission Limited Company
Email: 02weitai.ltd@gmail.com
We chat ID: w0978377508
You tube: ua-cam.com/video/-8kBVM4JCBg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/jQW23Bx59WQ/v-deo.html
Website: www.weitaitw.com/en/ball-screw-nut.html
www.weitaitransmission.com
FB: facebook.com/hung.nora.3
Cell phone: +886978377508
Address: No. 214-3, Zhou Mei Street, Bei Tou
District, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C.
Tel# 886-2-28326773
FAX:886-2-28327852
Io
This is a commercial nothing informative to see here folks.
I gave you a follow on Insta and so here!
Interesting stuff you’ve got here!
Greg