Mouse Switch Soldering Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- How I swap switches in mice. This is basically a "how to solder" mouse switches tutorial!
-You can see the gear I use here: ents.win/gear
-Buy Kailh GM8 Switches: lethalgamingge...
-Buy a pre-modded GPW PCB: ents.win/gpwpcb
-Or send your mouse in and I will return it fixed! Switch swap service: ents.win/moddi... - Ігри
Definitely my favorite tutorial for swapping switches. The tip about snipping the legs is really helpful. One thing I found useful through experimentation is this: During desoldering, if you can't go from one pad to the other quick enough (the solder solidifies before you get to the next one), just add more solder. Make nice big blobs. This will create large thermal masses that can hold heat for a few seconds. A 2-3mm diameter blob will allow you to basically have all three blobs melted at the same time, even with a point-tip iron. Another tip is once you've removed the switch, if you don't have a solder pump to clear the via, you can heat it from behind, then once the solder is liquid, get really close, remove the iron and give the via a solid blow. Take care not to burn your face/lips and make sure the surface in front of you can handle a bit of molten solder as it'll come flying. This will be more than sufficient to nicely clean the vias and allow you to fully insert the new switch.
You can just use a desoldering iron to make things easy. 😉
I watched so many videos and they skimmed over the soldering part as if it was the easiest thing to do. The tip with sicking the tweesers in the holes helpped me out so much. Thank you, my mouse is working (better than) brand new again!!!
Background music level very right at volume level and we can clearly hear your voice instruction! Good Job!
ty!
priceless tutorial, the tips of adding more solder to remove the switch saved me from melting another one
you make it look so easy ents. im just praying i don't destroy my mouse. lol thanks so much for the extremely informative tutorial!
no prob good luck!
@@entsfps hey ents, you ever swap switches on zowie/glorious/xtrfy mice? I wonder if the process will be mostly similar
@@seelamb93 basically the same as the ones in my fm videos, just a bigger pcb
@@entsfps thanks a lot ents :) do you have an affiliate code with lethal gaming gear? gonna pick up like a pound of switches when they’re back in stock lol
@@seelamb93 i dont but you can use boardzy for 10% off then tell them i sent you! tyty
Thanks for the tutorial, really smart to leave middle with solder for later adjustment.
ty
You helped me do my first Soldering, thx man!
great job!!!
I think you need to point out that people should be using appropriate soldering iron tips to use this technique properly. A tip that is too pointed will not be able to transfer heat properly, so that you won't be able to keep the solder molten for all of the three contacts. The knife soldering tip that you're using has a large surface to transfer heat quickly to the solder pads, which enables this technique to work.The same is true if the temperature is too low.
An alternative it to just use a desoldering iron, which is essentially a desoldering pump with a heated nozzle. Just place the nozzle over each contact, wait for the solder to melt then release the plunger to suck the solder out.
Lastly, I think you didn't comment on it but I like your desoldering pump, it has a silicone tubing for a better seal. The cheap ones that have hard nozzles are a pain to use.
You can buy those silicone tips and put them on a cheap solder sucker works like a charm
Yep I had this problem
Good tutorial! Also thanks for not making the music overwhelmingly loud.
love the GPX design, made this job easier and way less risky, if anything, one can just order a new daughter board without have to replace the whole pcb or do some extensive PCB tracing.
sadly all the new mice on the market none of them doing the same. However the plus here is they seem to use much higher quality switch right off the bat so that is nice .
Never soledered before - got a g703, the left click of which drives me crazy, hope I can do the soldering part without making the whole mouse unusable.
You made it looks easy, I messed up with my mouse. 😂 +1 sub😊
Thanks 😅
Nice vid.. i have the same hand de-solder pump.. also have a de-soldering station but as i live in a apartment and pack everything i tend to pick this pump instead of the whole station hah .. Will see if i can use this method in the future to replace switches on my new loud "Kensington SlimBlade Pro".. add sum Kailh silent switches to it..
Thank man! I destroyed several mouse boards before just by desoldering the mouse switches. These are really pain in the ass to replace without proper tools and techniques.
its true. practice makes perfect tho
I just destroyed my Zowie S2 cuz I didnt have the proper tools too :( I'm gonna try it again tho once I get the proper stuff
Thanks for the tutorial
you did it so easy
took me 4 hours to replace just ONE switch.
somehow they dont want to come out ...
ended up ripping that switch out of my mouse and hammering the solder away so the new switch fits in ...
soldered it together and now shes working again ...
but without specialized tools ( got just a cheap soldering iron and not all his gear )
its just painful :D
bruh
Great tutorial! What temperature do you put the soldering iron at for this?
0:36
@@entsfps Duh thanks, totally overlooked that! :)
Just tell him wtf.
question: what was that thing you used to clean up the solder after you melted the original solder? (lemme reword it)
step 1. clip the original pins
step 2. heat up the original solder
step 3. put a random tool that isn't in your description and somehow clean up the solder
what's that random tool? and also does it matter that I clean up the solder from the original mouse? or can I just clip the pins and heat up the switches until they come out and procceed?
aptly named solder sucker -- ents.win/gear
add more of your own solder then clean it up. factory stuff is very high temp
Great video! Literally been doing this myself lately. Just messed with my Model o- and threw in some kalih gm 4.0 reds. I got it working, but it's slightly not flush so the shell doesn't go back together great. I'll try keeping the middle pad with solder to help align, good idea!
What are your helping hands? Mine are too flexible... I need different ones.
mine are just the cheapest ones from amazon. they are breaking and i just ordered a new magnetic set
@@entsfps so I just got the solder I put there hot and squeezed it in, made them flush 👍. Only problem is I broke the rgb ribbon putting it back together. Oh well, this was my test run, I have a model o wireless on the way! I wonder if I should throw switches into that...
@@Guinibee1 nice! those ribbon cables def are delicate
I saw an other video where the person used a block of clay to hold the switch and board in place. It was inverted so he was able to solder.
@@traaaaan you block access to the bottom of the board that way. imo use helping hands/clips/clamps
Damm bought a solder from aliexpress that "goes" as high as 500C but couldn't melt anything at all. Dozens of minutes to desolder a single switch, soldering process was also hard, too slow and ultimately would melt the plastic surrounding of the switches... had 5 replacements but managed to break 4 of them lol
You made a mess boi
Hotter doesn't mean better, make sure your tips is shiny and not oxidize as that will make soldering way harder. Put some solder on the tip before melting the solder on the board, it will be easier.
Are you using lead-free solder? Amazing video :)
yes ents.win/gear
@@entsfps Thank you :)
On another note, I want to buy a new soldering iron/station. Do you have any advice on any good solutions? I see from everything, was looking at KSGER but ... I'm having second thoughts on getting stuff I don't have much support where I live ( Portugal )
@@PedroSombreireiro ents.win/gear
thanks for the tutorial, the 3 pins of switch layout have polarity or mean something? maybe the middle pin is the data pin? i don't know, I'm asking bc the pads of sides on my pcb fell off
There is no data pin. It's a switch, all it does it bridges two points to complete a circuit.
Based on the datasheet the pins are as follows...
COM (Common) - The pin on the side where the button is - This one is basically always connected. For simplicity's sake you can think of it as the 'input'.
NO (Normally Open) - The middle pin - This one is disconnected by default, pressing the button connects it to the COM pin and becomes the 'output'.
NC (Normally Closed) - The pin opposite the button - This one is connected by default, being the default 'output'. Pressing the button disconnects it (switching the output to the NO pin of course).
Whether not you can put it in 'wrong' depends on how the mouse itself is programmed.
Some electronics will function the opposite of how you would expect, treating the switch as "on" by default and then reading when you press it to turn it "off". Basically utilising the COM and NC pins. If this is the case then it shouldn't matter which way you orient the switch in this case as both the COM and NC pins will still connect/disconnect correctly when pressing the button (though obviously the button on the switch would still need to line up with the physical mouse button).
If the mouse is programmed to use the COM and NO pins instead then orienting the switch the wrong way would cause it to not work.
My advice would be to just orient it whichever way allows the button itself to be aligned properly with the buttons on the mouse.
Placing it the wrong way is not going to cause any damage to the switch and is highly unlikely to cause any damage to the mouse. So just give it a go and if it doesn't work then flip it around.
I'm having trouble with mine i replaced 1 switch already perfect no problems then on the other one I currently can't get the solder off the squared one no matter how many times I heat it up and add lead solder I ordered a flux pen and a wick to try a different method
add solder to all 3, heat all 3 up in rapid succession and the switch will fall out
@@entsfps will try it again right now I have the same vampire sucker if it happens to fail I'll buy one of the pcbs you sell
@@mr.gypsyfish6710 twitter.com/entsgg/status/1297655921045274631 hope that helps otherwise ive got PCBs for ya
or you can send in just the pcb :)
Is it safe to use 375c during soldering job? I usually use around 310c cause I’m scared of damaging the pcb with too much heat.
yea just be fast, i use 355
@@entsfps alright thanks!
I just desoldier old switch and put new switch, mouse is working but switch don't. Is it possible I broke pins? I don't understand what is wrong..
sorry it's not working but without a detailed video or photos it's impossible for me to even begin to guess what's going on
@@entsfps can you type your email so I can send you?
@@LateTuber ents dot fps at g mail
I just bought a soldering kit to attempt this myself. Which soldering tip do you recommend using as a beginner?
the one im using, chisel
quick question, i tried desoldering my left mouse switch, but my solder iron wasnt hot enough so i had to kinda press harder and longer so i gets hotter and use the pointy tip to scratch off the solder
lomg story short i managed to change my switch and now it wont detect any click, i know my switch is not broken cos i tried putting the pin on my right switch pin and it worked
issit possible my pcb is broken now cos it stayed in contact with the hot solder iron for too long?
yes
Can you use desolder wick instead of the pump?
wick isnt great for through hole components
What solder do you use? Also I have a problem where the solder doesn't stick to the soldering iron or the pin and pad. After I solder something it looks bad and dirty. I have a random soldering iron and solder. Any help or tips?
My solder is listed at ents.win/gear -- the issue with it being dirty looking is usually from too high of heat, and keeping the solder hot for too long -- remove the solder and try again. if the solder isnt sticking, clean/tin the tip of your iron
@@entsfps I also see it wouldn't stick to the pin itself. I clean the tip of my iron after every bit of soldering, with no results. I noticed that when I was unboxing my soldering iron the package's colors were faded away because it was so old, can that be an issue? Or maybe solder mixture. I have heard the term 60/40 a lot before and I have no idea what it is :D
@@Denis-qc2cw you should be heating up the pad and pin and flowing the solder onto the pad/pins -- age of iron doesnt matter really
@@entsfps How much does a good solder iron make do you think? I've had a $10 one for like 15 years and never gave a shit enough to get an expensive one. Even your "current" one is not that expensive at $54
@@gg-gn3re the $15 one i was using for a long time is plenty good enough. i got this better one as a gift and its very nice but imo i didnt need the upgrade
hey ents, how do you put your soldering iron away properly? tip tinner, clean with steel wool, put back in stand? or should I leave the tip tinner on the iron without cleaning it off to prevent oxidation? also, do you recommend a wet sponge to help clean the iron as well? thanks
put it in the stand and turn it off - before work the next time i will steel wool it and tin if needed
Late as hell here but leave some solder on your tip when you store it away. Don't store it 'clean'.
So when you finish soldering clean it off as shown in this video, put a blob of solder on it (just enough to lightly coat the tip), then turn it off and leave it in the stand to cool down. Do not try to force it to cool down with water or something as you'll damage the tip.
Wet sponges are okay but if you already have brass wool I wouldn't bother with them. The wetness of the sponge can cause thermal shock which will slowly ruin your tips.
what should i do if the metal ring where i put my switch is missing ?
that means you did too much heat for too long and destroyed the solder pad -- buy a replacement PCB or mouse
TTC gold v2 vs kailh gm 8.0 in terms of feel?
ttcgold is more tactile
@@entsfps thank you! Wanted to know difference in feel as they are about the same weight but I couldn’t find info anywhere!
@@entsfps is the force to actuate TTC gold v2 and kailh gm 8.0 about the same? Sorry for another question.
ents.win/switches
Do I need to put lead before desoldering the switches?
hello ents. this is a noob question but what will it take to break/lift a pad. ive seen a good amount of posts from r/mousereview and related subs about clearly inexperienced people that havent soldered much before (im in the same boat) and i would like to ask the steps to take in order to avoid it and what goes wrong when it does happen. maybe its easy and im paranoid. thank you very much
too much heat, too much contact time, and/or pushing the switch
@@entsfps how do you think i should go about this if i dont have any helping hands?
@@jadenngl beans or rice in a sock, and press the pcb down so it holds it steady
Do I really need a solder remover since I don't have one laying around rn, planning to change my mouse switch soon..
it helps a ton
how long do these switches last under intense gaming click and click+drag situations?
click lifetime ratings are listed on ents.win/switches
can i solder in new switches without a soldering pump?
yeah but its much easier when you remove the old solder. spend hte $10.
Hey just asking I’ve never done soldering before, if I desolder a mouse switch will that switch still work and could I use that deaoldered switch and solder it onto another mouse? I want to desolder the omron 50m on my g903 and solder the 50m onto my g pro.
yes
what type of solder should i use for this im new to soldering
ents.win/gear
are you usung 60/40 ?
My 3rd pin is not soldered which is the NC terminal, now, is it okay to not soldered that pin? because I'm planning to switch my side buttons switches that have only 2 holes which is a box-type switch.
yea thats no problem
@@entsfps www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=amp.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/mm8nni/can_anyone_identify_what_the_elevated_tactile_lxa/&ved=2ahUKEwjd28qTvuDxAhVCaN4KHc1jBMkQFnoECAkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3CFhdw1qpJ3Jx9jQEJAl-t
@@entsfps Can I have a favor, can you look it for me then recommendation on how to extend its terminals so I can solder it.
Because it may not reach side buttons withs its short pins
That's my mouse btw.
what solder do u use? 60%-40% or lead free?
lead free when soldering, leaded when de-soldering
@@entsfps aight thanks
Hey, I have a question evne though this video is kinda old lol. So i followed your instructions and for some reason when putting the mouse back together none of the switches nor the scroll wheel work. The mouse turns on and the sensor works however the switches dont register clicks and the scroll wheel doesnt do anything either. I know the PCB isnt burned i checked before desoldering, I kept the temperature at 350 - 325 at all times. There is some flux residue from the solder on the edges of some of the pins. I made sure the shape of the solder around the pins are good too. Any tips?
the ribbon cable in the upper pcb isnt seated or locked down
did u fix it? Im having the same problem..
@@rlucho555 yes for me it was infact a shredded ribbon cable
@@atable6266 both of my cables look good, I'm gonna try applying more soldering tomorrow and see if that works... Thanks for replying sir!
@@rlucho555 no problem! just keep in mind i thought the same thing, if theres even slight bending or scratching on the ribbon cable, however, you might have found your problem
My solder no have option heatC
Only 40W that ist ok or not
buy a new good soldering iron for $15
What kind of sheers do you use?
ents.win/gear
yo got question, is it fine if I put the temperature at 350C or 400C instead of 375C because my soldering iron doesn't has 375C option
ya do 350 and if needed try 400
@@entsfps alrighty thanks
idk i tried but i have cheap soldier iron from ebay i fried 5 switches and got only blobs our of the soldier
im looking to buy the switch replacements service what switches are the most simlar to the stock ones?
zippy 20m, huano 50m -- both slightly heavier but they feel good
Isn't that copper wools? Not steel wools, it would eat the solder tip so fast.
def not steel, it's whatever is made for soldering irons
I have a Zowie ec2 divinia. I have Kalih reds for the main 2 switches. How much to ship you the mouse and switchs to be replaced?
ents.win/estimate/ -- 35 if youre in the usa and for the two main clicks
hey man, is there a way to re wire the contact points on the pcb? i think i burned 1 side of my g9x logitech
youtube "skipping a trace"
@@entsfps cheers!
i need tutorial how to swap side button of G Pro
wireless or regular?
@@entsfps wireless, G Pro Superlight/Superlight 2 have different switch (,not the regular 3 pins), i think the switch called Kailh Mini Micro Switch (have 2 little pins).
i try to search the tutorial how to solder them, but kinda hard to find it.
@@raihandaluthfiansyah I'll post a tutorial on Saturday
@@entsfps hope you can make the tutorial how to swap/solder them, because on youtube i think nobody make the solder content for Mini Micro Switch (type of side button logitech use for their top tier mouse), i find only one video (BeardBob, but he doesn't make video closeup to the object really hard to see it).
@@raihandaluthfiansyah is it ok if i just do soldering and now the disassembly? i think ppl know how to open the mouse by now
Hey I wanna send a gpx out never done stuff like that but how would I send it out? And what can I pay with?
ents.win/links
Do you use leaded or lead-free solder?
leaded, which is bad for your health -- ents.win/gear
@@entsfps Ok, ty, will it be harder to desolder with lead-free?
I know it's kind of unrelated to the video, but my ultralight 2's left-click felt really stiff and hollow after paracording. I tried it without the cord, adding foam at the bottom (pcb) and even tried taping the switch(cuz I thought it happened due to switch wobble). Please help! I think the only way that explains this is that my switch got damaged during the process.
pcb prob isnt sitting flat -- the paracord is probably under the front of the pcb
@@entsfps I tried putting the cord on top of the pcb, the click sounds the same. Is it safe to assume that it's the switch that's causing the problem?
@@rheejin9987 reassemble mouse without the cable and see what happens. make sure pcb is seated correctly
@@entsfps I've tried it without the cable, still sounds the same. I'll try to change my switch and test again.
@@entsfps I figured it out! I putted 2 layers of electric tape on the switch (cover the part where the small rod on the shell touches the switch that makes the switch/pcb stable) and it dampened the switch rebound sound. I think you could use this method to fix mouses that doesn't use screws on the front end of the mouse.
Yo ents where can i dm you besides twitter? Had some questions
ents.win/contact
whered u get such a big bag of 8.0s
🔌🔌🔌
did you ever soldered a switch out and re-used it?
all the time with everything other than 50m omrons
Did you used low melting solder?
no ents.win/gear
does this work on the wired mouse?
yes same procedure
GM 8
what you can say about this switches?)
they are very nice!
So i had this idea, what if i used (for example) Gateron Yellows (Mechanical Keyboard Switch) as a Switch but it only has 3 Pins and the old Mouse im gonna mod with this has 3 Pin Mouse Switches, what should i do, and with pins/sockets/pads are for what ?
www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/g2cbye/modified_logitech_g600_with_mx_cherry_speed/
How hard is swap switch to g604??
no idea
Do you need flux, or is it unnecessary?
You can use it but I don't
@@entsfps thank you
Do i need flux?
Most solder you can buy will have flux built into it, usually known as "rosin core" solder.
For something like this that will do just fine.
make a mod to make it hot swappable please please please
ive done it but wont sell it bc im worried about people breaking the hot swap pins off, its easy
@@entsfps where
@@backupmemories897 no video, its just keyboard millmax sockets soldered to the bottom of the pcb, be careful to not use too much solder and get inside the socket
@@entsfps I was thinking to use Dupont female cutting it to smaller one enough to hold/contact for the pin. millmax looks heavy.. also i dont know where to buy millmax xD
edit: gold millmax found it.. deym expensive 10 pcs = 2 usd.. dupont 100 pcs = 1 usd. but millmax looks premium
@@backupmemories897 divinikey.com/products/mill-max-hotswap-sockets?variant=39313626595393
i have a double cliking g pro would replacing switches be a good potential fix or should i be looking at buying a replacment pcb for the switches?
both will fix it, the option you pick depends on what you want. you can do it all yourself but that has the biggest risk if you aren't experienced, the pcb with new switches is easier than having to solder but still requires disassembly, or you can send me the mouse and I will do it all for you and return it fully working
i killt my pcb :( after the 3 swap i got a doubel klick problem @ kahli gm 4.0 ! after 2 years
solder new ones :)
@@entsfps I kill the PCB it got too hot 🔥🥵 I buy a new PCB and the I will put new one on it.
@@asOCiATE53 aliexpress has them!