DOD Delete kit using texas speed pt1 afm suburban tahoe...
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- I install a DOD Delete kit using texas speed components below are more options. Basically gm AFM or DOD is a badly engineered system and sometimes needs to removed all together. There is a way to cheat the system I have video on this as well in fact this is one the cheat would not work on. Odds for that working seem to be good though.
I forgot to include removing the alternator bracket, if I have video of it I will include it in a following video.
NEW!! I now Offer Delete Kits
www.crazedperf...
If you need my custom made parts
Check out my new website
www.crazedperf...
Engine assembly grease I use
lucasoil.com/p...
texas speed kit
www.texas-spee...
Tools Used
fuel line disconnect
www.amazon.com...
Tune out options
LT1swap.com Affordable option
HP tuners Expensive Option
www.amazon.com...
Range device Don't bother
amzn.to/2QotE5c
If you do full delete don't bother with range device. Get proper tune done.
1/4in Impact
www.amazon.com...
Parts
Valley Plate without DOD be sure to replace it.
www.amazon.com...
Intake gasket make sure this fits your vehicle
www.amazon.com...
If you need a pushrod
www.amazon.com...
Favorite coffee
amzn.to/2QohPvX
Crazed Performance Repair UA-cam channel
tahoe lifter tick camshaft yukon
I've been following your whole "DOD" system to stop. But you really do a masterful job. Your excellent educator. And your patient !
Thanks for your videos and detailed instruction on this problem. Thanks to you, I was able to use your tool to free up my lifter, modify the VLOM, and send off my PCM for reprograming just as you instructed, and I'm happy to report the truck is now working GREAT! I will say that when I first started the truck back up after putting the engine back together, there was a soft tick. I remember you saying that sometimes the lifters will fail again but I figured that if I just let the truck run for a bit, the oil pressure would build up and the lifter would free up...and it did. Purring like a cat now! If anyone thinks they can't do this, you're wrong. I'm not a mechanic, more of a handy man, but by following the instructions I was able to pull this off and save hundreds or thousands of dollars. Good luck!
Nice, man and I’m glad you’re showing the details of the DOD system. I’m debating whether I want to do the DOD delete myself in a Caprice that I have and your vid’s are swaying me to do the job myself. -Chris
Did you do the DOD delete yourself? How did it go?
Thanks man!! i watched most of your videos on the dod delete.... was scared doing it... i'd only worked on my own crap sbc 350's etc.... my 2011 yukon was not something i wanted to work on, but did it to save the money, and you definitely helped!! It is running perfectly after having a clicking afm lifter that got stuck. I used TSP components, and replaced the oil pump as well...
Love the siphon trick to get coolant out of the heads! Great tip!
Great videos. I am rebuilding my LH6 that I swapped with a LQ4 inside a saab 97x. I drove it with a collapsed lifter for over a year and was actually relieved when it spun a crank bearing. I hated the dod with a passion. It collapsed when I checked my oil and it was normal and then the same day it began tapping. Checked oil and was dry. Added a quart then drained it with only 2 quarts. The motor ran so well before it collapsed but I got comfortable with believing it would never happen. The engine is super clean but pistons for dod were caked in carbon. They sound like Subarus with an exaust.
I bought my 2015 Sierra and the day after getting it, it started running super rough and engine light started flashing. Used a obd2 reader and it was a misfire on cylinder 7. Thankfully it was under warranty and got it fixed but i am soon going to delete the DOD system
Great videos. I particularly like how you show a clip from a previous video when you reference to it instead of having to run back and look at it trying to find what you are talking about. But it also prompts to actually go watch it after finishing current video.
Good talking with you today. Thanks!
pay 40k + for a truck and this is the crap they sell you wow
Reverse thread drill bit and an ease out is much easier than welding to get that exhaust bolt out.
ok, I had the almost the same thing. Took my valve cover off just now and one of the rockers for cylinder #4 was not moving but was not lose as in your video but it was not moving as the engine cranked. I was just about to remove the intake and cover to try the "push rod fix" but saw this video. i tried the Seafoam in the oil routine and it also did not work (after 1 day). I took Seafoam for carburetors and stuck the straw down the #4 push rod hole and sprayed as well as down the hole where the rod sits. Then I used an 3/8th extension 8" long and hammer to softly tap the rocker above the top of the push rod. At first it bounced like I was tapping in a spring. Then it went solid and I stopped. I tried other rocker arms above the push rod just to see what it felt like. They all felt solid! did I fix it? YES IT WORKED!! Cranked it over and the rocker rocked just like all the others! Now what caused it???...dirty buildup in the lifter or a bad VLOM? This engine has 170,000 miles on it and it is a 2009 Tahoe with police package (probably a lot of idle time).
See the last three video's on this playlist ua-cam.com/play/PLPRbZLG-A0WHJ-9mhL9IqSHqquUiBdhdm.html doing that mod and the tune with eliminate all possibilities.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair If you disable DOD in the computer then why would I need the mod? Is there an issue where the oil would get through the VLOM to activate the lifter? Can you put in the oil plug device without removing the intake?
It's not always needed but there have been some people with VLOM failures causing lifters to activate slightly and fail. If your vlom is fine the tune is enough. Think of the VLOM mod as insurance it will make sure that no matter what happens it can't somehow collapse a lifter. The oil plug can be put in without removing the intake if you can get the oil screen out, it can be tough sometimes with intake in the way. But the plug alone doesn't cover all possibilities because if the system is somehow plugged up in that VLOM on a port then that could also cause a collapse since the lifters are feed from underneath as well and normally bleed off through the VLOM.
If you are going to replace certain push rods, rocker arms & lifters, you should replace all lifters, rocker arms, push rods just to be on the safe side.
Why waist money if the rest are fine and they are easy to replace? It's not like you have to pull the head, replace gaskets and bolts, then have the head machined. If you are talking about lifters, I agree. But simple parts like rockers and pushrods, nah.
been with you since the 1st vid... glad to see your channel growing
Heck yeah man it's cruising along now
what we do in our engine machine shop with aluminum heads, and this is only if there is material to do so, is to drill to the next size up, helicoil it and get a stronger bolt and a stronger steel insert. Don't use loctite on an exhaust manifold bolt, use anti-seize.
You are spending a lot of unnecessary time doing it that way. Use a welder like I do here ua-cam.com/video/0uLEBnhycpM/v-deo.html
Not sure about the ls based engines but most engines have a antifreeze drain on the side of the block if you pull those out you end up with less than a cup of liquid left in the cooling system hence no antifreeze mess to contend with
Yes they have them but on one side is above the starter the other side is a one inch hole. They are both allen heads so I don't messed with them.
Dietec Grease on the tips of the spark plugs will prevent the wires from sticking to the plugs.
This is the type of stuff I enjoy. Great Video.
I like the anti freeze drain trick
Great videos. I have a 07 6.0 vortec. Cylinder 7 misfiring. Pulled value cover and lifter is not working so I’m assuming collapsed lifter is the issue. Your videos have been AMAZING. Few questions. I’m debating on whether to just buy your tool, fix the lifter and possibly just tune out DOD without doing a full delete kit. So what would cause me to choose to do the full delete kit and not just release the lifter? What do I need to do to ensure the current VLOM is working correctly and won’t collapse lifters again if I don’t do the delete? If I keep current system and just tune out DOD, do I need to do the mods to the current VLOM you described in other videos? Right when the misfire occurred and I was driving it home, dash started buzzing stating engine had no oil pressure and to turn off engine immediately. I was 100 yards from the house so just got it home. That night, When the engine was cold it did not have any engine oil alarms like that tho. Is that something to point me to my VLOM is having issues and I should look at a delete kit? Will be pulling off the intake in a couple days to check for the loose VLOM bolts but the front two seem tight (can’t spin with just my hand or a socket and my hand). Thanks for all the videos and help.
Thank you for the video. Might I ask the labor cost to do this job?
I wouldn't say it's a bad system. Just certain setups, the valves in the L77 and L98 hold up pretty well with the dif lifters , but yeah if you own the earlier models...
DOD delete for sure.
Its a fkn terrible system..
It's a horrid system lol
It only serves to save gas mileage while sacrificing your engine's longevity
There are so many kits out there its hard to figure out which one i need
I’m not sponsoring any particular company, but I did buy one, complete, for exactly 600. Sent my PCU/ECU to have it reprogrammed. If you’re definitely gonna do a DODAFM delete you had really better think about it and get the one with the most concise parts list available. It’s not about money, it’s about saving your investment
Nice, I have one to do next week. I haven't diagnosed it 100% yet but I think a non AFM lifter roller locked up and wiped out the cam.
ouch... yup time to remove DOD haha
Got it all done. Cam had 1 wiped out lobe on cylinder 5 exhaust. Non DOD cylinder. The roller was intact, just pitted in a few spots. 153k, 2012 Tahoe 2WD k9 truck. No hour meter.
Used all GM parts, part #'s listed on LT1Swap.com, and had him program the delete into the PCM for $50. Total was about $600 for all parts/oil/coolant which included an oil pump and pan gasket. I did drop the pan because I wanted to do the oil pump. Total labor time was about 14 hours.
@@mph5896 awesome, you should find out how they did the delete tune for only $50? I can't even do it to my own if I had one for that cheap
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Yeah, its super cheap and he ships the pcm back quick. No idea how. He prob has a Gm software hack to reprogram the PCM instead of aftermarket stuff where you have to buy credits every time.
m ph where are you located
I’m currently doing the delete on my 5.3 only thing is my new lifters have oil guides on the sides not like front back the way the afm was when removed was I sent the wrong lifters ?
I think you where sent the wrong lifters. Make sure you get the non DOD lifters and correlating guids.
CrazedPerformanceRepair I did order the non dod kit with valley plate non dod camshaft and lifters
I have a 2015 Tahoe AFM/flex 114000 miles with ticking on the passenger side with "No" codes or misfires. Am I a candidate for a stuck lifter? Do you make a delete kit yet? The oil sender filter is in a different location correct?
Enjoyed the video! But would have loved to see zoomed in some. Thanks
Hello sir I swapped engines in my 2011 gmc sierra 5.3. To a 5.3 deleted jasper engine with 10,000 miles on it. I swapped out the engines and I got the computer deleted at a local shop. And now I am getting mass airflow low code. And bank 2 issues with the cat o2 sensor s. I swapped out the mass airflow sensor and it was good for a short drive after i deleted the codes. I am just looking for another option of what to do thanks Dave.
I used a easy out and the first two broke on me. One was flush and other was above deck. I got that one out with channel locks
My friend, how are you? I am happy to follow you. I ask you to answer my question. I have a Yukon GMC 5.3 May 2008. I changed the machine and installed a 2011 machine. Capacity of 5.3 was light oil. I changed the package to Denali high pressure and the pressure did not rise. The same did not change, and when it turned from 8 Cylinder to 4 cylinder works backfire and looks at code p3401 p3441 p3425 and asked the owner of the machine he told me that the machine is iron and not its size
Awesome video and great work! 👏
Got a 2012 silverado 5.3. Currently doing a dod delete. Factory gm cam and lifters. I know I need to have the dod afm disabled in the ecm. My question is, since I'm just putting in oem replacement non- dod cam and lifters, do I have to get it tuned as well? Thanks
Need a little insight , if you have time, I had a lifter on cylinder 1 start ticking, I looked over the cam through the holes for any type of cam failure , haven't found any signs as this truck did not run more that 1 seconds once the lifter started ticking, I ordered new AFM lifters, i have put them in and a new Vlom plate, my issue is i have the motor put back together, and none of the AFM cylinders are opening or closing and makes truck have multiple misfire and dies, Its like it is stuck in v 4 mode, any input will be appreciated.
I had my DOD delete on a new crate motor and ever since then NOBODY knows why I’m having exhaust problems. Should I put back factory setting? I changed cats and o2 plus fuel pump FCMS. Help please.
I'm going to do the same thing but I would much rather take the engine completely out put it on a stand replace the rear main seal on the engine and the front transmission seal on the transmission clean out the torque converter in drain. Much easier work on.. on a stand. If I ever remove the heads I always take the engine out.
Hey! Thank you for making these vids, they have helped so much! I'm in the process of tearing down my 09 sierra 5.3l (ly5) collapsed #4 and cam damage. Yeah I bought it that Way ... but there are so many choices of cams to replace the dod cam with. I want stockish drivability but dont want to lose what hp I have. How does the lm7 cam work? Or maybe an ls9? I dont want to destroy it. Just wanted to bump it a lil since I'm there. What's your thoughts?
Try a dod delete cam kit from tsp
Jeffrey Herrin
Ls9 camshaft is good but you’ll lose torque
I ended up going back with a 5.3l stock cam from a non dod engine. It runs good so far. Stock is ok since I'm using for a daily driver. I will build something fun soon tho on a non Daily.
You’re a boss. Thx for this video
Can't imagine how much this job would cost, laborwise.
I have a 2016 silverado and the lifter collapsed, the shop told me $5000 to install a full dod delete 😑, that's why I'm here saving all his videos 😆
@crazedperformancerepair so I'm looking at an 08 suburban. Owners said it had loss of oil pressure. They replaced oil pump. Water pump. Timing chain and the lifters on the right side of the engine. Take note it was a mechanic who did this repair. Anyway. It all started with a misfire. With that being said they said that when they run the truck the lifters get louder. I seen a video u made of a stuck valve and lifter. I happen to have a 2005 yukon with the 5.3 and that suburbans got the 5.3. Could I pull the lifters from the 05 and use them in the 08? Apparently their burb is still showing a low oil pressure warning. What would you best recommend? I'd like to drive it home. It's a state away and a good price. Also. If I wanted to. Could I possibly swap the 05 engine into the 08 body style? It'd be my first LS set up. Don't know much about them but need a 4 wheel drive. My mom's got an 08 suburban I've been driving lately due to snow. And fell in love with the quality of these trucks. I'd love to own my own burb or tahoe. T.i.a.
The 05 may or may not work in the 08. Not much help I know. What you need to figure out:
1:The factory engine code for each.
2: use the code to figure out what crankshaft and camshaft trigger wheel each one has.
3: if they are the same go ahead and swap them then disable AFM in the newer one. If they are different it's most likely the cam and it's a simple cam sprocket swap. If it's the crank, it's not worth the effort.
You could also just fix the 08. That would be my choice. It could be a oil pickup tube o-ring but is most likely the second camshaft bearing. You never mentioned the oil screen under the oil sensor being replaced. Check that first, if it's plugged pull it out and your set to drive home.
Was wondering
I have a 07 Silverado nbs vin code M all aluminum block and heads. What kit should I get to do a dod delete, if you can can you give me part numbers on what to order? Thank you in advance
I have a 2011 Silverado that I need to delete the dod on, where is your shop located?
So I'm working on this truck and did all the diagnostics because it had a miss. Come to find out it had this pos dod motor. Found your advice which was extremely helpful. The push rod on number 6, that was the cylinder that had the miss, which led me to your videos, is now tight like it should be. This truck was sitting over the weekend opened up, could it be possible it released itself? Or should I still talk it like you show?
You can check by watching the rocker when you turn the motor over.
Great video! Thank you for making it. Getting ready to do the same on my truck. Would you recommend going with one step colder plugs?
No not unless you are doing some high performance thing.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair i am going to buy a tuner and disable the DOD from my 2010 ppv tahoe with 105k miles. Do i still have to install the DOD delete cam kit etc?
@@madbroindustries get the afm disabled by range it just plugs into the obd port and keeps in v8 full time, I have on in my impala ss and my Silverado both work great!
Can the vehicle still pass admissions with a stage one camm from Texas speed and another thing why I think they fail a lot the lifters is because they don't run E85 like they should all the time
Is the process the same for a 2015 GMC gen5 5.3?
I guess if replaced all of them 'll not be issue to keep it on order clean work thanks
Question. I'm looking at buying a 07-09 era Avalanche 5.3. Assuming the truck I find has no current issues with the AFM or signs of a lifter noise.... disabling the AFM with a tune or flashpaq or something would be a logical step? Seeing your explanation of the failure certainly leads me to the conclusion that disabling it means its much less likely to crap out and is a no brainer. Its a second vehicle for me and i probably won't drive it more than 25k before I resell it. I'm a master tech so doing a full AFM delete is no big deal.. but I don't do a ton of GM.
If you want the easy way if it hasn't failed yet get the rang device amzn.to/2HVa1gu other wise tune it or have a speed shop tune it.
first off thank you for sharing your trick. I have a couple questions with the time frame as far as what is the best approach first do I send in my pcm i assume I won't be able to drive my truck without it. order your kit can you tell me exactly what to ask for when I send off my pcm? I have read lots of the comments to try and get the info but I just want to make sure I don't miss anything.
I have A 09 1500 collapsed lifter on # 4 assuming its intake. thank you
I see you ordered the kit so first off thanks for the support. As far as order of operations, if you have a place you can park the truck to send off the ECM while you wait on the kit then do the repair when the kit shows up it will expedite the job. A lot of people like to attempt the fix first with the thought that it might not release but even if it doesn't you will want the system off anyway so why not just get the AFM shut off right away to reduce wait time. When you go to LT1swap.com he has a AFM section and it gives some nice simple instruction on how to send the ECM to him so follow those. I personally like to add a copy of my receipt from his site in the box with the ECM though I don't believe he ask for it. Btw Next time if you wan a fast response shoot me a message on my website since I don't always get to the UA-cam comments right away.
Thank you so much. Your channel is super helpful.
What's the best method you used to adjust the rocker arm with AFM?
Rocker arms don't get adjusted, it is just a tq to spec thing.
Thanks, but that what the book said.
I have to go over the firing order to do so.
@@last1king if it's factory just tq them, the valves will just open on some
hello. I need your help. chevrolet Tahoe 2012 is it possible to remove the AFM system without changing the camshaft?
Hey, loved your tutorial! I just did this on a 2013 Suburban and #4 valve was bad -- the exact same one as the one in this video. I put it all back together and then disconnected the brake boost wire to keep it from going into 4cyl mode. it started right up and the issue seemed to have been resolved until I started driving it down the street and the lifter got stuck again. My question is: doesn't unplugging something like the brake boost wire keep it from going into DOD mode? I ask because if I delete the AFM and get the lifter unstuck again, will it be permanent?
Well this video is a full delete so I know you did not do this. As for disconnecting the brake booster wire, I had two guys tell me that did not work for them either. I would suggest watching my VLOM Mod playlist than get the tune done to turn of DOD. ua-cam.com/play/PLPRbZLG-A0WHJ-9mhL9IqSHqquUiBdhdm.html
If you’re in the metro Atlanta area, I disable the V4 mode.
Does this make 09 5.3s fairly reliable?
My 2011 escalade 6.2 had a lifter failure and wore the cam lobe.
Which cam kit would you recommend to do the full DOD delete?
I typically use Texas speed myself. Just be sure to avoid the ultra cheap Amazon or eBay items. I've heard lots of horror stories about those.
Many kits sold have the VLOM that does not have the solenoid plug.
I reached out to many AFM DIYers and they said they never got a CEL or codes just leaving the connector unplugged.
2 questions:
- do you know a specific way to avoid any codes on the first startup?
- if using HPTuners, can you write up or show a quick video on what to do in the software to avoid any codes or no throttle response on first startup?
If
The system must be turned off when doing a full delete ua-cam.com/video/uvDE-LCmbnU/v-deo.html
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Ok so you just left the connector unplugged, got it thanks 👌
Is it worth it dod delete as a car you drive everyday 2007 caddlic escalade 6.2
I have good oil pressure in my 07 avalanche with a 5.3 and no engine light on... But I can definitely hear the push rod slapping the rocker arm! the noise seems to be from the drivers side. Its bad news no matter how you slice it, the noise started as a tick and its loud now, and i want to park it! My question is does the cel light not always come on indicating the misfire code?
I have a 2005 and did this to free it up.. Buy 1qt of Rislone it's been around 40+ years add to your engine run it for about 300 miles and I promise you won't hear a thing but then after do a oil change after about 300 hundred miles with Royal Purple or Mobile 1 high miles and add 1qt of Rislone again now this time run it for about 2,000 miles.. And remember watch your oil on any chevy motor from the years 2001-2014 and do regularly ever 4,000 miles no matter what oil you use because they are notorious for burning oil and make sure your oil pick up tube is cleaned and the pick up tube O ring is good if you have lower oil pressure or unconsistent oil pressure.. I have a 2005 chevy tahoe LT that had 140,000 with the same problem when I first purchase and now I have 205,000 and never had the problem after taking this step
How the hell you get the lower back head bolts out!
awesome videos, glad i came across this channel. thank you for your time, expertise, and knowledge. it sure helps
Great video series I followed your cam swap series and they were a great help in installing my cam on my 15 Sierra l83. I recently finished everything up had my ECM tuned and I am getting error codes for coil control circuit on cylinders 1,3 and 5 I’ve moved plugs and wires around checked for loose connections including the two grounds on the drivers side head. Just curious if you had heard of anything like this or had any insight to what could be going on? Thanks again for the great videos.
Check all coil plugs and pins. May have a bent pin or maybe they pushed out of connector while plugging them in.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks for the reply, I’ll check that.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair hello, I found a nicked wire on cylinder 2 coil plug I removed the intake manifold tightened grounds and refitted the fuel injector plugs and high pressure fuel pump I put it back together and no codes went for a test drive and notice slight misfire and under load engine light flashes then goes back off.
I'm going to do mine. I hate that system
What is your opinion on the oil pump leave the high pressure and plug the relief valve in the oil pan or get a standard oil pump and plug the relief valve in the pan ?
Leave oil system stock. Replace relief valve with new one at most. I do have a video on oil systems for these.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you very much for your videos and advice
I just purchased a 2011 Yukon with 170k miles. I have noticed a misfire at idle is it safe to say that I need to have this done or is possible all I need is a basic tune up.
You have to diagnose it. Never smart to just assume something and shotgun parts at it.
Question what do you do with the left over conector
Okay we did the dod delete kit from yall on our 2008 Chevy Tahoe hybrid and we are having issues still.....no power when driving when in idle shakes badly and when it is in very low idel we have a bad rattle grinding type sound....got into computer and the dod inside the computer was showing disabled already what else are we missing??? We have also replaced the cam shaft with a different one that came out of a ss camero
Did y’all found the issue?
Is there a delete kit for the new L84 5.3 yet? I've been looking for camshaft and lifter kits for it and can't find anything.
Yes, I'm working on a video for it but will be a while before I get it done.
Do you think using the needler vibrating tool straight on the push rod would release the collapsed lifter ?
No that would only collapse it even worse.
I’m sorry brother, but I’m in the middle of one of these on a 2019 sierra. And I’m not getting the info on where to put these plugs, this is an lt engine not an ls. Please help
Are you talking about the little metal plugs? And those engines you are supposed to block off the oil towers with little metal plugs since it's much cheaper to use the little metal plugs over replacing the valley cover with a non AFM cover.
I'm having the issue of p304 I changed the fuel injector, coil, spark plug, and wire. Still showing a cylinder #4 misfire, no noticeable lifter tick, Not sure what else to check other than taking off the head and seeing if there's an issue with a lifter
Pull the valve cover on bank 2 and crack the rocker arm nuts free with the engine running. If the miss dissappears you got lifter problems
Thanks for the videos. What causes it to stick like that? It's catching towards the bottom, but if it's not grime build up is it getting warped over time and that is causing that extra tension not letting it release and if so why are the others which are always in use not having the same issue, because they are more regularly lubed?
The metal eats itself deformed and since the inner part of the DOD lifter is a precision fit as soon as the metal deforms even a little the inner lifter gets jammed up. It's a manufacturer design flaw. The reason some fail sooner is due to differences in in tolerance and/or a failure in some way with the vlom units oil flow that causes one to beat it's self up faster then the others.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank you for the response. I fear I may have this issue, my 07 Suburban with 170,000 miles on it is showing random misfires (#2 and #7 specifically), flashing check engine light with service stabilitrak and traction control is disabled showing She's idling terrible with grey smoke out of the exhaust. I changed the plugs which had 70,000 on them and the wires and coil packs which were original but the problem persists. I did notice when I tried to drive her and let her coast v4 mode never came on.
@@nachoman3982 v4 won't come on if the lights are on in the dash. Cylinder 2 is not a dod cylinder but could still be a ghost code because of 7 misfiring. Best bet would be to get some good diagnoses of it. Be sure as to why the misfires there.
CrazedPerformanceRepair so just FYI, figured I’d follow up with the results. I had my local shop diagnose and sure enough the rod by cylinder 7 is collapsed, they checked compression then pulled the cover to be sure. They specialize in transmissions and overall repairs, but this is beyond what they generally want to work on do to amount of work they already have, so I shipped it to the dealer. They confirmed, but said both lifters for the AFM system at # 7 are stuck. They can’t free them so they claim, but I gave the OK to have those replaced and Upon my request they are going to programmatically deactivate the AFM permanently, of course this is extra to do because it’s done by one of their techs who invested his own money into the hardware and software for it. None of this is cheap at the dealer, but they agreed that unless I’m replace all of the related lifters it’s the right way to go as any of the others could fail soon after. They see this regularly per the service manager. There really should be a recall, but at 170k miles I got my share of use I guess. Still my 99 Chevy with 304k’s engine still runs so smooth you sometimes aren’t sure it’s on and never had any engine work.
Could you please help me out, which cam can i use when deleting dod/afm? i have an L92 and L9H, can i use one of thhem? escalade 2010 (e85)
go to texas speed and look. They give the oem replacement part number. Wish I had more time I'd get that info posted on my website.
Could bad afm cause vibrations when engine goes to V4 mode?
Yes, if a cylinder is still pumping air when it shouldn't.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks... What do you think about Range device? I use it for 3 month
CPR, I did a DoD delete with new cam, new lifters, new VLOM, and flash for my ECM. For the second time, the ECM has shorted out and the car won't start. Any ideas on what could be causing this. It is expensive to tow it to a shop, have the ECM replaced and flashed, then limp on 4 cylinders down to the tuner shop to get the new ECM flashed. Help!
Forgot to say, this is a 2008 Trailblazer with a 5.3 LH6.
Might be a stupid question but do you need to change the cam shaft position sensor?
No you shouldn't have to.
Hello love your videos!
I replaced bad lifters on left head#1 misfire on number five now the dod activates all the time number one misfire .i changed installed new valve lifter pan under intake put back together and still have the #1 misfire both valves stop upon start they rotate 3 time and I assume go into dod mode and shut those lifters down. . And traction control activate. I have a 301 misfire code. And heavy skip. Any suggestions
With both lifters spun in the bore from bad plastic guide, or there is something allowing oil to go past solenoid for cylinder 1. Could be a shorted solenoid wire in the main engine harness activating solenoid, stuck open solenoid, or possibly computer stuck shorted internally doing the same thing as wire short.
Thanks for all your videos. They was a lot of help through the process. I have a 2012 Chevy Suburban that I done to AFM DOD delete with camshaft swap, kept VVT. Also had the ECM tuned. Had a question to see if you could help me out with. Everything seems to be fine, runs and idles fine but once the engine starts getting warm if I barely touch the accelerator The engine idles up high and hangs (2,500-3,000rpm) at a high idle for 5 to 10 seconds and then slowly comes back down. Do you have any idea what may be causing this issue? Do I need to relearn cam? Thanks
You Might have a vacuum leak.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair That's kind of what I was thinking. It does kinda sound like it has one on the back, driver side of the motor but I couldn't pin point where it is.
Pcv on valve cover to intake, brake booster hose not fully seated or torn injector seal if you pulled them out and tried to replace them.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks, I'll check it out and see what I can find. Didn't try to pull the injectors but a couple got turned a little from moving stuff around.
Turning the injectors won't cause a issue.
I am working on my uncles truck 2010 with a 5.3 he has a lifter that is collapsed and it has 20 pounds of compression on number four and number two has 170 pounds what I was wondering do you have any recommendations to slow down the oil consumption once I fix the lifter problem I have heard about the driver side valve cover and the deflector shield that goes on the oil pan what is your recommendations to help slow down the oil consumption thanks I really appreciate all your time on these videos you do a excellent job
The truck just has 120,000 miles and has been maintained
@@mikereasoner4814 turn off DOD that is part of the consumption and if you haven't done anything about the pcv valve cover tsb yet be sure to address that
I have a question I have an 07 Chevy Avalanche and it's not making any noise but I got a number 4 misfire
@@briank447 and your question is?
CrazedPerformanceRepair OK I fix the valve Cover thanks again for your reply and all the help and with the videos
I have a misfire on cylinder 4 along with loud lifter tick. Would this be the same issue? I checked plugs, wires, coil pack and all are good. Will this kit fix my issue? Thanks
I'm sure it might but watch this first ua-cam.com/video/pP7I5tbXsfw/v-deo.html
Really appreciate your videos. I have a 2012 Tahoe and just installed a DOD kit and the truck will not start. I’ve called the people that I bought the kit from and they said that it isn’t starting because I soaked the lifters in oil. Does that sound correct? All brand new lifters installed. Thanks in advance!
No that has nothing to do with it. You likely left something unplugged like cam sensor or maybe forgot the ground on the back of the head to the firewall. Otherwise as long as your timing is on you should be good.
CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks! It’s probably something simple. As far as the timing goes-I lined up the Arrow on the cam sprocket to the dot on the crank sprocket (driver front piston was all the way up). That’s all I would have done....correct?!?!
Some of them it is a arrow and some are a line. Check compression to make sure you did it right. It should be about 180 give or take.
CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks-I will check that! I think it’s super cool that you’d help some random dude on UA-cam! Thank you! Keep making the awesome videos.
Welp-cylinder #1 showed 90 PSI and #3 showed 0 PSI. Looks like I didn’t reinstall the cam shaft sprocket correctly. Would you agree?
Will it trip codes if you do the DOD kit prior to disabling the AFM with a tuner or will it run?
It will start but if the vlom is removed or unplugged it will not allow the throttle to operate. The final part of the delete will include changing the tune when I finish the video.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thank you for replying - will check this out.
Didn't know I'd be watching brain surgery.. Awesome detail!
How many miles on this vehicle? I see these videos all the time but people never mention the miles. And wouldn’t this AFM system benefit from more frequent oil changes than these modern maintenance intervals systems call for?
This one was only at 114k this problem has been known to happen much sooner. I've had it happen a week after installing brand new lifters. Oil change interval generally is not the source of this problem, it stems from bad design.
CrazedPerformanceRepair, It’s a shame they can’t find a solution because it does save gas. I guess with the price of gas so low these systems just are not worth the added complexity and cost. Too bad they designed the lifters so the heads have to come off to access them. A lot of these modern designs are a mine field of maintenance issues from 5 foot timing chains, chain tensioner, variable valves and water pumps running off the timing chains. Well it should keep you busy.
@@justcallmejohn2833 It doesn't seem to actually save fuel though... seems every one of them I have turned off or removed has gained 2 mpg but yes these are going to keep me busy for a long time lol...
CrazedPerformanceRepair, I heard there is an upgraded gasket for the valley cover, does that help?
CrazedPerformanceRepair Will deactivating AFM with a tuner prevent future problems or is a delete necessary? Truck is running good with 122k knock on wood.
Hey man I did a full delete using cam springs lifter ect. Its been tuned an running good for about 2months then I got a p3401,p3425 code but the volm was replace with a flat non afm cover when the sawp was done ..do you have any ideas what is wrong
The system wasn't properly tuned to shut the system off.
Are you suppose to replace the lifter trays when replacing the lifters
When doing a full delete you have to because they are different from the AFM system lifters.
while im in process of doing this myself and while I do more research, is that cam solenoid at the end of factory cam needed after a cam swap?
6.0 cam swap for my 5.3
Only if you want to keep the VVT.
Does anyone know if I would have to do a vvt delete if I do a dod/afm on 2013 suburban
How do I use my 2000 dbw harness an computer with a gen 4 engine
Gas the Music your voice is way more important.
Can we camm are Chevy suburban in California
So theoretically you could disable it and and never have an issue as long as those parts are in good shape?
If you are referring to the DOD and shutting it off prior to failure then yes it should prevent problems.
Apparently they still fail, though they’re disabled. That’s what my tuner told me. Same with the shop foreman at the GM dealer I go to
That motor already has a dod delete valley pan
Is there a way to deleted or manipulate the computer with hptunes thanks
ua-cam.com/video/uvDE-LCmbnU/v-deo.html
yes i am buying my lifters to remove my dod off my 2007 suburban with 5.3 lc9 engine when i look up ls7 lifters on internet will any work or are there diffrent ls7 lifters
All LS7 lifters are the same but you must replace the cam and lifter guides. Get A DOD delete kit like this one amzn.to/2F30ReV
Do you guys have Emissions there? We had an 07 silverado with a dod kit that we ended up not being able to pass emissions because of it. Ever had any issues with that? We’ve done like 5 valve jobs because of afms so this should save us a ton of time and money. Thanks man. As long as it doesn’t pop any codes from it and the monitors all set we can get it thru emissions I’m sure. I forget what the exact reason was for it not passing.
We don't have the emmissions test in MN anymore but the one that didn't pass was likely for another reason. The AFM/DOD is only on select gm v8's not all of them so if it was that all the others wouldn't pass. Well unless they check for functional AFM system somehow now. Wouldn't surprise me if they implemented something stupid like that.... higher mile DOD vehicles do burn more oil from ring wear so that could be related.
Can't you just somehow reset the computer system to not run with advance fuel management.
So question: when you do just tune and tune out dod will the chance of lifter collapse still exist since it’s never asked to collapse again? Thx
Generally no at that point the DOD lifters should be fine. Now, if something strange happens like the vlom (if still in there) gets plugged up or a solenoid somehow magically fails then it may collapse. But that's very unlikely I have yet to see it.
CrazedPerformanceRepair thx bud love your channel just subscribed.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
How often or how important is it to clean and/or replace the oil pressure/vlom screen?
I wonder what GM does nowadays for that DOD system
Still use the same system.
Sir where is your shop located
I'm now outside Avon SD. Used to in MN but they are bat-ish crazy over there lol
Bro question:::
07 Tahoe LTZ 5.3L with over 200k miles. Been thinking about getting the engine change but am confused in whether get a used engine and break it down to replace all major parts to bring it to a new state as in 0 miles or just find a used engine with low miles and throw it in? Thanks
Whats wrong with the engine you have?
Was told by the dealer when i went for oil change that i have small oil leak which they couldn’t tell where it was coming from at the time they had my truck, so just want to be a little prepared if i have to change my engine changed
Wouldn’t want to get this one rebuild because it’s my daily truck and would prefer to have something ready to swap just incase
@@kingb9512 I would not consider a rebuild over a simple oil leak I have seen a lot of these engines reach well over 300k mi of coarse the ones with DOD need DOD Issues addressed first but otherwise it's usually minor stuff.
CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks bro
at 6:30 what are the symptoms if they are worm out? does it make sound?
It has no symptoms and can only be seen when apart.