Thank you! This video is very helpful to me for my shed on slab build. My research tells me that longer bolts would be better. You used 5.5" and I have learned that 8" bolts would have been ideal for this project, and my own. Also, larger washers would be ideal, such as the big square plate washers that are about 3" x 3". The bigger washers would spread the load more broadly over the sill plate wood. Just me 2 cents. Thanks again!
This is an excellent video. You clearly show how to install and use wedge anchors. I would caution not to drill too deep when there is a concern for overpenetration below. I once installed these in the roof of a train track. Overpenetration would have resulted in debris on the tracks below which could have been a big problem. That being said, it is hard to get all the drill debris out of the hole and your advice is 99% of the time helpful.
We also use these for one sided wall pours. We fasten a 2x6 to footing and add a 16d nail through inside form for 8' tall walls or less. Never had one fail. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I'm doint almost the same thing but I wasted an entire day deciding and returning the Tapcon screws, remset gun/ nails/, before I figured out in on my own that I can attach these 2x4 pressure treated 8' floor plates to the pre-fab Amish kit fabricated 8x8' walls ready to stand, and be done with it. I knew I could always come back later, after installing the walls, but the 2 sets of pressure treated and OS 2x4 plates were throwing me off. Thanks so much for showing this. Question: what's a good distance to space the Red-heads anchors apart? 26' long shed x 16' wide x 15' high.
Hi Cajun, 1' off each corner and every 6' we put them in on a new poured concrete house or addition or even garage. Hope that helps and yes that was a great question.
Can you anchor this way if your shed goes edge to edge on the concrete pad? I am assuming no since it would likely fracture the concrete but I don't know.
Great question assuming it's a 2×4 sill plate and concrete is good I'd say yes. Try one maybe even go down a size to 3/8 instead of 1/2 anchor. If you go 3/8 I'd probably go 1' off each corner and every 4' instead of 6'.
Hi Bryan, It's very strong, if a hurricane came along I'm sure the sill plate would stay and nails holding down shed would fail before sill. Is it as strong as poured in Concrete probably not but is more than adequate. I'm trying to hit 500 subs so please consider subscribing if you found any use in this video, Thanks Brian!
@@74stevedc some fast grown barely pressure treated cheap and nasty stuff they're charging 300% increase in price for since brexit. very thin and flimsy materials here for everything generally. your shed looks solid there though! to be specific they call it c16 and c24 which is how the grading works but its not what it says on the tin.
John, This was a pre-built shed from Home Depot or a shed builder, it wasn't custom built here on site. They just drop it off on slab thats why they didn't anchor it down. As far as pricing goes everything here is marked up. Thanks John for taking your time to watch my video I truly appreciate every viewer. It's people like yourself that keeps me making videos!
This bolt isn't imbedded deep enough. 5 1/2" bolt minus 2 x bottom plates (3") minus washer/nut leaves less than 2 1/2" embedment. Should use 7" plus bolt.
I'd do a thicker edge slab maybe 6" to 8" and 4" in the middle for slab thickness. I believe one bolt has a clamping force of about 7,000 psi. So every 4' a hurricane would probably pull the framing nails. They are buy far the weakest link about 140 lbs per nail. I don't have experience in Hurricane builds but believe the sill plate would stay bolted to the slab and shed would be gone if that makes sense. Good luck with your new shed Thanks for watching!
We didn't build the shed but a double sill is common the bottom should always be pressure treated. The next sill is typically just kiln dried pine walls are framed and stood up on pressure treated. Cheaper builds would just have 1 plate not pressure treated.
Hi Don, I'd recommend 6" by 1/2 that's the code in Massachusetts every 6' and 1' off corners. Very rarely is it spec'd for every 4' but we did because didn't want any issues. Thanks for watching my video!
Great video. You didn't drill it into a footer, but I suppose that's not required there, a concrete slab must be ok for y'all. Would have liked to see and know the proper spacing and see it demonstrated too. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Bill, I believe it's in the video 1' off each corner and every 6' if you're in a crazy hurricane area or have 2 bay doors you could go every 4'. That is the code for foundation's here in Massachusetts. Good luck with your project Bill, Thank you for taking the time to watch my videos people like you make me want to keep going.
32" is plenty, in a house foundation it's every 6' or some drawing spec every 4' but that is very rare because are Massachusetts building code is 1' off each corner and every 6' . Hope that helps you David.
Hi Gary, Great question yes typically it's a foam sill seal to close any air leaks or gaps in the Concrete. So the foam seal then pressure treated 2x6 plate then your pine 2x6. Thanks for watching Gary.
If your in a crazy tornado area I'd go every 4'. Six feet is Massachusetts code we typically don't get tornados here but I'd bet the sill plate at 6' would stay and the nails holding the building to sill plates would blow shed of the sill If you know what I mean. Thanks for watching Suzette.
Hi Steve, I purchased a premade 8x10 wood shed. They put it on an old concrete pad out back but the building inspector won’t approve it because they didn’t anchor it. I’m an older female and want to do this myself to save $ but need to know the name of the drill you used. Maybe a dumb question but I’m not very knowledgeable about power tools. I’ll be buying a used or refurbished one from eBay. Thank you!
Hi, Mine is a Hitachi it's old now, but it's a Hitachi DH 40FR believe it was about $600 and bit was about $40. You can rent a big hammer drill from Home Depot maybe $65 for 4 hrs. Also may be other Rental places near you. Good luck with your project and other questions reach back with me.
@@74stevedc : I just saw that Harbor Freight has a corded Bauer hammer drill on sale for $29.99. (7.5 AMP, 1/2 inch). The reviews are iffy; some say it’s great and others say it won’t last beyond a project or two, but it’s only $30 bucks and guaranteed for 90 days, so I think I’ll try it, as it’s unlikely I’ll ever need one again. Thanks for your help! I’ll just follow your video and sink about six wedge anchors.
@leeb.7188 Awesome you can do it. Let me know how it went for you. For us in Massachusetts any shed smaller than a 10x12 doesn't get taxed. This particular one was a big one.
I agree with the previous comment this is not deep enough for such a building. Resin fixings would be a far better way when drilling so close to the edge of a slab.
We set them every 4' if a hurricane would take shed off building and leave sill plate. Remember the shed is held to sill plate by 2 16d nails every 16".
It was a already built shed put down on are pad. They did put a sill seal and we caulked around the base plate heavy inside and out. It's best if your slab is same size as shed and 4-6" off the ground to prevent water.
We're looking to buy a shed thats been already finished on the inside (as an office). If we move it to our place how can we still anchor it concrete when the inside has drywall? Also, how many of those anchors are needed to secure the shed?
You would need to access the inside or outside to anchor it. I'd probably remove baseboard make a pilot hole with hammer drill use a tapcon then put back baseboards. Just don't go above baseboards or you will have to patch the drywall. As far as placement it's 1' off each corner and every 6' some houses go every 4' but Massachusetts is 6'. Are slab is 5 inches thick and anchors are on top of sill plate anchored 4" into concrete. Congratulations on your new office shed!
I plan on getting a slab soon & buying my very first shed ever I was wondering for a 10x10 or a 10x12 shed how many anchors would you recommend to hold it down securely? also would I need to put sealant at the bottom of the shed walls since I plan on using the concrete as the flooring would rain water seep in? Or should I not use the concrete as the shed floor? I’m super new to this so sorry if my q’s are dumb!
I'd anchor every 4' if there a door or short section 1 on each side for a total of 2. Caulk along the bottom inside and outside as best as you can. Thanks for watching my video.
Hi, I do the site work and slab, another company builds the shed, prefab or conventional. This customer called me back to ask if we can. It's very easy not sure why they didn't do it?
Thinking back we used silicone caulking at bottom of the floor to the sill and also as best as we could under siding. This one did have a foam sill seal under the shed and top of concrete. I didn't show that in video but customer wanted it done for extra money. We went heavy inside because it had better access. Hope that helps you out.
We didn't build shed, it was bought fully assembled and dropped on the pad we prepped site work and poured slab. The shed drop-off guy doesn't do that I guess just delivers to site and places on your pad. Thanks for watching Daniel and commenting.
This is the part every shed building video leaves out. Thank you
Hi Thanks John, for watching the video always looking for comments good or bad, to make the content better. I appreciate the positive feedback.
Right?! This is the most important part.
I don’t care about how nice the shed looks if a light breeze will knock over my hard work. Lol
Anchoring is very important if you want to keep your shed on your property and not your neighbors 😉.
Thank you! This video is very helpful to me for my shed on slab build. My research tells me that longer bolts would be better. You used 5.5" and I have learned that 8" bolts would have been ideal for this project, and my own. Also, larger washers would be ideal, such as the big square plate washers that are about 3" x 3". The bigger washers would spread the load more broadly over the sill plate wood. Just me 2 cents. Thanks again!
Great points Thanks for watching my video!
Good video. Short and right to the point. It's exactly what I needed to know for my project. Thank you.
Thanks Todd for watching my video.
This is an excellent video. You clearly show how to install and use wedge anchors.
I would caution not to drill too deep when there is a concern for overpenetration below. I once installed these in the roof of a train track. Overpenetration would have resulted in debris on the tracks below which could have been a big problem. That being said, it is hard to get all the drill debris out of the hole and your advice is 99% of the time helpful.
Thanks Joe,
Great tips Thanks again for watching and commenting are you still doing that type of work?
I am building shed on concrete floor first time, this is very helpful.
Thanks Gala for watching my video.
Thank you for showing this. Never built anything before and want to do a storage shed after pouring the slab
Thanks for watching I appreciate it.
Thank you so much. I just had a 10x10 concrete slab put in and almost bought subflooring for my shed. So much easier.
Glad the video helped you, good luck with your new shed Esequiel.
I've been racking my brain on how to do this. This is awesome. Thank you!!!
Certainly thanks for watching.
We also use these for one sided wall pours. We fasten a 2x6 to footing and add a 16d nail through inside form for 8' tall walls or less. Never had one fail. Thanks for watching!
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!!
Glad, it helped you out, Thanks Luke
Great tip drilling deeper than needed to make sure anchor can be placed even if dust is left in the hole.
I have learned better to drill to deep because with the nut and washer it will only allow it to go as deep as it can.
Thanks for watching Tom
Excellent video. I'm doint almost the same thing but I wasted an entire day deciding and returning the Tapcon screws, remset gun/ nails/, before I figured out in on my own that I can attach these 2x4 pressure treated 8' floor plates to the pre-fab Amish kit fabricated 8x8' walls ready to stand, and be done with it. I knew I could always come back later, after installing the walls, but the 2 sets of pressure treated and OS 2x4 plates were throwing me off. Thanks so much for showing this. Question: what's a good distance to space the Red-heads anchors apart? 26' long shed x 16' wide x 15' high.
Hi Cajun,
1' off each corner and every 6' we put them in on a new poured concrete house or addition or even garage. Hope that helps and yes that was a great question.
Can you anchor this way if your shed goes edge to edge on the concrete pad? I am assuming no since it would likely fracture the concrete but I don't know.
Great question assuming it's a 2×4 sill plate and concrete is good I'd say yes. Try one maybe even go down a size to 3/8 instead of 1/2 anchor. If you go 3/8 I'd probably go 1' off each corner and every 4' instead of 6'.
Ok, so you don't have to have anchor bolts already built into the concrete. Is this method just as strong?
Hi Bryan,
It's very strong, if a hurricane came along I'm sure the sill plate would stay and nails holding down shed would fail before sill. Is it as strong as poured in Concrete probably not but is more than adequate. I'm trying to hit 500 subs so please consider subscribing if you found any use in this video,
Thanks Brian!
You made it look so easy.. Nice job!
Thanks,
Also Big Thanks for subscribing I truly appreciate everyone that watches my videos got a few new ones I'm working on.
Bolted down my shelter yesterday after watching your video and it went just as you show us. Thank You again for a great video.@@74stevedc
@randallbadgett7448 I'm glad it worked out well for you, thanks once again for watching.
God I wish I could find a shed or some builders to build one with that kind of thick wood here in the UK.
Interesting how are things across the pond John?
Hi John,
How are things across the pond as they say? What wood do they use in UK?
@@74stevedc some fast grown barely pressure treated cheap and nasty stuff they're charging 300% increase in price for since brexit. very thin and flimsy materials here for everything generally. your shed looks solid there though!
to be specific they call it c16 and c24 which is how the grading works but its not what it says on the tin.
John,
This was a pre-built shed from Home Depot or a shed builder, it wasn't custom built here on site. They just drop it off on slab thats why they didn't anchor it down.
As far as pricing goes everything here is marked up. Thanks John for taking your time to watch my video I truly appreciate every viewer. It's people like yourself that keeps me making videos!
This bolt isn't imbedded deep enough. 5 1/2" bolt minus 2 x bottom plates (3") minus washer/nut leaves less than 2 1/2" embedment. Should use 7" plus bolt.
Great piont Robert I agree 7" would be better not sure if they have a 7" but 6" would be better than 5 1/2".
We live in Florida where hurricanes are known to happen. Would this process be better than cables and bolted to cement pad?
I'd do a thicker edge slab maybe 6" to 8" and 4" in the middle for slab thickness. I believe one bolt has a clamping force of about 7,000 psi. So every 4' a hurricane would probably pull the framing nails. They are buy far the weakest link about 140 lbs per nail. I don't have experience in Hurricane builds but believe the sill plate would stay bolted to the slab and shed would be gone if that makes sense.
Good luck with your new shed Thanks for watching!
I see the wall has an additional layer of timber at the bottom, is that needed?
We didn't build the shed but a double sill is common the bottom should always be pressure treated. The next sill is typically just kiln dried pine walls are framed and stood up on pressure treated.
Cheaper builds would just have 1 plate not pressure treated.
Do you suggest 1/2" vs 5/8" and 5" vs 6" length bolts, especially when only one treated 2x4 sill plate?
Hi Don,
I'd recommend 6" by 1/2 that's the code in Massachusetts every 6' and 1' off corners. Very rarely is it spec'd for every 4' but we did because didn't want any issues. Thanks for watching my video!
Thank you!
Your welcome Sean,
Glad you watched my videos.
Great video. You didn't drill it into a footer, but I suppose that's not required there, a concrete slab must be ok for y'all. Would have liked to see and know the proper spacing and see it demonstrated too. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Bill,
I believe it's in the video 1' off each corner and every 6' if you're in a crazy hurricane area or have 2 bay doors you could go every 4'. That is the code for foundation's here in Massachusetts. Good luck with your project Bill,
Thank you for taking the time to watch my videos people like you make me want to keep going.
Thanks. Do you need to install a bolt every 16" or can you go 32"?
32" is plenty, in a house foundation it's every 6' or some drawing spec every 4' but that is very rare because are Massachusetts building code is 1' off each corner and every 6' . Hope that helps you David.
Do you have to put some sort of damp proof membrane underneath the timber because of damp. Great 👍 video
Hi Gary,
Great question yes typically it's a foam sill seal to close any air leaks or gaps in the Concrete. So the foam seal then pressure treated 2x6 plate then your pine 2x6. Thanks for watching Gary.
Thanks 🙏 for getting back to me and the advice 😊
Thanks for watching Gary enjoy your weekend.
Is there a wind rating for this anchor process?
If your in a crazy tornado area I'd go every 4'. Six feet is Massachusetts code we typically don't get tornados here but I'd bet the sill plate at 6' would stay and the nails holding the building to sill plates would blow shed of the sill If you know what I mean. Thanks for watching Suzette.
@@74stevedc Thank you for the info.
Hi Steve, I purchased a premade 8x10 wood shed. They put it on an old concrete pad out back but the building inspector won’t approve it because they didn’t anchor it. I’m an older female and want to do this myself to save $ but need to know the name of the drill you used. Maybe a dumb question but I’m not very knowledgeable about power tools. I’ll be buying a used or refurbished one from eBay. Thank you!
Hi,
Mine is a Hitachi it's old now, but it's a Hitachi DH 40FR believe it was about $600 and bit was about $40. You can rent a big hammer drill from Home Depot maybe $65 for 4 hrs. Also may be other Rental places near you. Good luck with your project and other questions reach back with me.
@@74stevedc : I just saw that Harbor Freight has a corded Bauer hammer drill on sale for $29.99. (7.5 AMP, 1/2 inch). The reviews are iffy; some say it’s great and others say it won’t last beyond a project or two, but it’s only $30 bucks and guaranteed for 90 days, so I think I’ll try it, as it’s unlikely I’ll ever need one again. Thanks for your help! I’ll just follow your video and sink about six wedge anchors.
@leeb.7188
Awesome you can do it. Let me know how it went for you. For us in Massachusetts any shed smaller than a 10x12 doesn't get taxed. This particular one was a big one.
I agree with the previous comment this is not deep enough for such a building. Resin fixings would be a far better way
when drilling so close to the edge of a slab.
We set them every 4' if a hurricane would take shed off building and leave sill plate. Remember the shed is held to sill plate by 2 16d nails every 16".
Did you put a caper barrier or anything to keep water out beneath the framing?
It was a already built shed put down on are pad. They did put a sill seal and we caulked around the base plate heavy inside and out.
It's best if your slab is same size as shed and 4-6" off the ground to prevent water.
We're looking to buy a shed thats been already finished on the inside (as an office). If we move it to our place how can we still anchor it concrete when the inside has drywall? Also, how many of those anchors are needed to secure the shed?
You would need to access the inside or outside to anchor it. I'd probably remove baseboard make a pilot hole with hammer drill use a tapcon then put back baseboards. Just don't go above baseboards or you will have to patch the drywall.
As far as placement it's 1' off each corner and every 6' some houses go every 4' but Massachusetts is 6'. Are slab is 5 inches thick and anchors are on top of sill plate anchored 4" into concrete. Congratulations on your new office shed!
Good stuff man.
Thanks Antonio,
I plan on getting a slab soon & buying my very first shed ever I was wondering for a 10x10 or a 10x12 shed how many anchors would you recommend to hold it down securely? also would I need to put sealant at the bottom of the shed walls since I plan on using the concrete as the flooring would rain water seep in? Or should I not use the concrete as the shed floor? I’m super new to this so sorry if my q’s are dumb!
I'd anchor every 4' if there a door or short section 1 on each side for a total of 2.
Caulk along the bottom inside and outside as best as you can. Thanks for watching my video.
Hi, what kind of contractor does this work?
Hi,
I do the site work and slab, another company builds the shed, prefab or conventional. This customer called me back to ask if we can. It's very easy not sure why they didn't do it?
Could u provide the bit size and the bolt size
It was a 1/2" × 5 1/2" Redhead anchor and 1/2 drill bit. It was in the beginning of the video, but thanks for watching and comments.
I did this and now have water coming up through bolt holes and soaking bottom plate wood. Any ideas
Hi Jamie,
Did you drill all they way through slab, or could it be coming from siding sitting on the ground.
Thinking back we used silicone caulking at bottom of the floor to the sill and also as best as we could under siding. This one did have a foam sill seal under the shed and top of concrete.
I didn't show that in video but customer wanted it done for extra money. We went heavy inside because it had better access. Hope that helps you out.
Why did you wait so long to install anchors after all the walls are all sheathed
We didn't build shed, it was bought fully assembled and dropped on the pad we prepped site work and poured slab.
The shed drop-off guy doesn't do that I guess just delivers to site and places on your pad.
Thanks for watching Daniel and commenting.
Thanks
Thanks for watching my video Demetrio.
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Got anything you want me to sell,
Ship it out I'll test it. Thanks for watching my videos.