Excellent work! You did a great job of boiling down the most confusing parts about the VORON ecosystem into a concise explanation. Glad you’re enjoying the machines and kudos on donating some VORONs to education. Hope they serve them well.
price tho guys common! use your potential purchasing power to reduce the cost to end user. Everything voron is beautiful, list kits in general are a great thing but raw costs on individual parts for the single consumer to build anything these days is such an expensive route often far greater than the respective shipping, storage,sorting fees you would have to pass on to us poor poor big dreaming makers. Much love.
There is a market opportunity for a sourcing company to make high-quality kits for popular voron builds with pre-greased rails and quality inspected components. A reliable one-stop-shop in the US could do well.
Wow! Very well done and thorough video. You really did your homework on this one. I'm pretty sure this is going to become recommended viewing in the Voron Community. I built one of these a few months ago and am really happy with it. I have enough parts to build a second one but the Voron Trident was just introduced the other day and I am tempted to head off in that direction next. (RonC V2.1134)
Great video. As someone who built a V2 this year, I appreciate all the explanation you do that would have helped a newbie during my build process. I do slightly disagree with how strictly you say you need to follow all the part sourcing as there are many people running non-spec parts, but for someone doing this for the first time, it's probably best they do everything perfectly to spec.
Coming from someone who has built the V2, I am glad that you see value in the topics I picked. There are still a lot of small things you will learn here and there when you build. Regarding the BOM recommendations, that was more for the newcomer because it really slows down the build process if you have a couple parts that you tried to get a good deal on but they turn out not to fit...
@@DrDFlo Even your explanations of how each component functions and comes into play (for example the benefits of linear rails or why there is still a Z- endstop switch) were very good points to bring up. I'll definitely be sending this to friends who are interested in building one as a good "here's what you should know before you decide"
dude your video on 3d printer building is epic....no one I know has that much info on the topic on youtube in there entire channel in the amount of detail you put into it....totally loved that video. As with your content being quiet long I do love when you put out content.
I've been referencing your video frequently as I put my 2.4 together. Love your smile, good looks, the way you talk and explain things. Looking forward to more content :)
This is, hands down, the best video I've seen regarding V2.4 or just Vorons in general. I'll be bookmarking this to give to anyone who asks about building one. Great work!
I built a 1.8 a few months ago out of my old hypercube absolutley love it. Just click print come back a few hours later, print done, I never even check any more.
The other thing that is worth noting, with the discord server and various groups Voron related, you actually get more support with this than most (if not basically all) main stream 3d printers.
Hey man. I'm doing the same at a local makerspace. I've been buying everything from circuit level components, microcontrollers and hundreds of sensors, thousands of feet of wire, motors, filament and really good digital multimeters (to be put away for people who can't afford it) along with every type of screen you can imagine, thousands of leds of every type through hole, smd, neopixel rolls, jbc soldering station, solder, flux, braid. It's taken me almost 2 years to gather it all up. I couldn't name it all if I tried. I don't watch most 3d printer channels anymore because they just let the printers rot or build a farm and some build (pew pews...). They should give them all to schools. I've spent the last year and a half learning and buying extra to donate. I'm not looking for kudos I. Saying more people should be like you.
I just started building my voron and I love the fact thats even called them Eyedlers on page 23 at the instructions. I really dig the assemblyguides of the voron team.
totally inspiring, im gonna order my first 3d printer in a few days and once i get used to how 3d printers work im going to build my own !! thanks for the awesome content
Just when I was starting to feel accomplished because of the little mods I have been doing to my ender Neo, now I see this and I'm sure it would take me a life time to build this kind of machine. Great video in any case.
I used to work for a water-jet manufacture we used linear rails for holding the z carriage. They were costly since they were 10mm rails, and cams to keep it level and stable. We used ball screws at first than switched to harmonic drive motors on custom aluminum extrusions with a custom plastic for the wheels. Great video though, very through and helped me see the engineering decisions they made.
@@jamesplace5622 My only gripe with Rat Rig's printers is that they still insists in using PETG for their printed parts. That means you are limited to print lower temperature thermoplastics to avoid heat deformation. Other than that they have some really cool features.
You're great man. I live in a small rural are and tried to donate stem stuff and was greeted with malice and suspicion. I have no idea why your channel has t blown up. I suspect the d-flo thing has something to do with it. My friends have called me j-stro since the late 90s hahaha
Great in depth video into the Voron assembly. I also loved that you donated these printers for education and let other people be mind blown with the power of 3d printing :)
I'll never build this but his videos are like that Avengers movie with double popcorn and a 6 pack beer. His sense of humour dealing with the little ooopz be made and to clarify misunderstanding with possible Karen regarding the linear rail was a 10/10
liking not cause i can relate but cause i love building stuff and maaan this voron looks fun to build. the more complicated and finicky sumfin is the more i wanna do it
This was a solid video, it stayed interesting. The only thing that distracted me is your Gladiator Garageworks stuff is the self-assemble stuff, not the prebuilt ones. I got the self-assemble ones and they didn't fit right. So I went with all the pre-assembled ones now.
Hey David, excellent video (as always!) I'm in the process of building a HevORT 3D printer. It's going to be a tad bit bigger than yours at 565mm x 565mm x 590mm. Let me know if you need full-sized, one piece traffic cones printed... I went with the HevORT since I could easily (more or less) scale the size to what I wanted. Also, I like the ballscrew/wobblewings approach to bed leveling, the support for bigger motors, it's beefiness, and the option for non-planar printing. There's some serious drawbacks to my build, including the higher price of the parts, availability of those parts, and where to put the darn thing once I'm finished with it. And the frame "efficiency" is woeful compared to the Voron. Far more dead space in it. Going that big caused problems finding places that even sold parts in the sizes that I needed, including 700mm long ball screws, 800mm long rails, and a 1000mm long, 20mm 20mm square carbon fiber tube (the rails and the tube will have to be cut, it isn't that big). The heated bed plate is 23.25" x 23.25" 1/4" ATP 5. MIC6 would have been a better material choice, but it's 2x the cost. And I won't start printing until things are heated up in any case, so expansion will be accounted for. I can always switch to MIC6 later if need be. I'll just be sure to mount the plate so that it floats. The X & Y axes are going to be driven by Teknic servos, which will require 12mm belts. And the frame is made out of 3030 rather than 2020. I ordered the frame parts pre-cut from 8020.net, and they were pretty much spot-on with their cuts. With all of them either on the money, or within a millimeter. The price wasn't bad, $0.27 per inch, and $2.12 per cut. I highly recommend them. I'm looking into welding the frame together (why not?) since I'm shooting for some pretty high speeds with those servos. In any case, another great build, and there are going to be some lucky kids getting to use some awesome printers!
Excellent video : ) Just a small correction or clarification to the extruder drive intel. Galileo uses larger drive gears than Clockwork but smaller than LGX. Clockwork uses Bondtech BMG's 1.75/5.0mm drive gears. Galileo uses Bondtech QR's 1.75/8.0mm drive gears (or the new shorter drive gears supplied by Bondtech to LDO). Bondtech LGX uses the new 1.75/18mm drive wheels.
Nice video! I watched the entire thing! I was hoping you might cover the bed leveling and z offset a bit? I also commend you for pointing out the risks with nanoparticles and off gassing. People seem to disregard that and I cringe when i see people saying they run these machines in their bedroom, etc. I think I would lean towards fireproof panels (UL 94) over acrylic, just being safety minded as I am. Good job!
Dr. DFlo, i can’t express enough how glad I am that I stumbled on your channel. The knowledge and experience coupled with your ability to teach and explain in an understandable way is invaluable. This channel is a goldmine! Please never stop, this channel will be at 1mil very soon 😁
Great video. Just to correct a very important information, using higher voltage to the bed heater do not count alone for safer implementation. It is even unsafer when you connect it directly to the net mains. A safer implementation needs to have a galvanically isolation from the net, a isolation transformer for example. This will both avoid electrical shocks accident and will limits the short circuit current.
If the wire are too small for the crimper (or even the contacts) you are using then just double up the wire in the crimp. The extra wire will take up the space.
Might build one of these some day, just got WAY too much other things I got to get done first. One thing I think that would help is a small HEPA filter in addition to the activated carbon to remove at least some of the small particles. I personally designed and made a filter for my printer using activated carbon pre-filters and Roomba HEPA filters. No idea how effective it truly is but it's probably be better than nothing.
@@wayneyandell549 I never published it, but it's based off of the filter on thing:4054734 on Thingieverse, they also put up an assembly guide on YT: ua-cam.com/video/h7VDLeoQBYQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CarstenDalgaard Same idea as their filter and enclosure. I just modified their design to make the enclosure bigger for my custom 5015 effector, but the principle is the same, i just changed it to work with my enclosure dimensions and used larger fans.
@@wayneyandell549 Actually NVM I did put it up on Thingieverse, I guess I just forgot: thing:4657322 It was just the door for the enclosure I didn't get around to publishing.
Thank you very, very much for this detailed video. What a tremendous amount of work this must have been. I own a CR-10S and got a serious itch to build a Voron2 now 🤩
I'm glad I found my old first gen raspberry pi to use as my alternative was a whole damn desktop server (might still switch back to that though as I can also control my other printers with it as well
@@misteragony It is the next iteration of the Voron 1 line of printers. The Dev group is going from numbers to names because as I pointed out in the video the numbering scheme is confusing, but changing the name so late in process could lead to more people getting their wires crossed.
I’m not sure how much I believe that one or a pair of MGN9 rails would be less strong compared the aluminum and V-Wheels, especially on something like a CNC Router. Also, I’d love to see what a Voron 2.X would be like using machine tools to create many of its parts instead of plain t-slot aluminum extrusions and mostly printed parts with tiny MGN rails (asides from far more massive costs of course).
If you look for accurate dimensions, you need to calibrate your flow for each spool. with my V2, I can acheive 0.01mm accuracy on all axes ! Nice video ! I love the compact format !
Pretty simple explain about the belt motion is examing the right triangle shape with equal side and pythagorean formula. Core XY move fast cause they moving in the hypotenuse direction that mean moving as quicker as in c^2=a^2+b^2. You can see hypotenuse c is much greater compare to a and b side of the triangle when moving in diaginal. You may thought then if they move only a or b side will slower down but turn out they use 2 motor so the overall speed up. Like I mention they are moving like right triangle shape with equal size of a=b then when ever the motor turn in theoretical the belt will pull the hotend a displacement of a=b
The only thing better than two is three. I wish my apartment had the power circuits to do that - or the space! I've been consider the idea of starting a Voron project, so it was rather lovely to see the whole build process!
note that wire current ratings need to be degraded inside a heated enclosure and drag chain, though you should probably be fine, but you might want to look at the temperature on the wires after like an hour at the maximum temp you wanna print at.
i got some metal reinforced nylon belts for my 3d printer. they have metal strands going though them kind of like a tire and its crazy how much less they stretch over time. after the initial stretch that all belts seem to do there is virtually none after that. run a handful of prints go back in to tighten everything down then you should be good to go.
Did you forget the thermal fuse on the build plate, or did I just miss it elsewhere in the build? Voron specs great SSRs, but they can still fail of course and not having a thermal fuse may leave you open to mains voltage bed heating runaway and potential fire, even when the machine is sitting idle.
I believe the Fermio Labs mats come with a "self resetting thermostat" which will turn the heater off if it gets into a thermal runaway, and then reset. I wish we had a company like Fermio in the US that had some of these more custom parts ready to go. I believe you can custom order this stuff direct from Keenovo, but it's more of a hassle and a bit more stressful making sure we do not spec something incorrectly. I had a bit of hard time sourcing the build plate and had to get one a little bigger and without the slots for easier mounting.
@@CodeMonkeX You're correct. They'll just ensure that your heater stay on at around 150c until you notice it. I'm actually the one who got the SK-GO creator to remove them on his kits last year and replace them with real thermal fuses that are replaceable. Those bi-metal thermostats aren't particularly reliable and at that point it's the only thing between you and a thermal runaway. With external power surges being one of the main causes of SSR failure I'd be wary, especially with Voron spec'ing a medium time fuse on the AC input. Imagine being on vacation for a week and a surge makes the SSR fail while you're gone. You're now just hoping that the constant cycling of the thermostat doesn't wear out before you get back and notice it. IMO a thermostat is an improper replacement for a fuse as it doesn't actually stop the problem, but rather attempt to make it safer which is likely why the team specs a real thermal fuse.
Thinking about the extrusions warping the linear rails, you could put a bead of thickened epoxy on the extrusions. Lay a thin sheet of paper or plastic on top of that, and then fasten the linear rails one screw top and bottom and just barely tighten. The epoxy will conform to the gaps between the parts, and once set and you add the rest of the fasteners, the rail won't be warped.
You magnetized your ball bearings! I did it too before I realized why it might be a bad idea. Now any iron they might find will jam up Into the ball path.
Great video mate, thanks a lot for your time. JST is a single small, generally kind of cheap and nasty subset/brand of these type of connectors and by no means interchangeable with Molex, or any of the other hundred or so similar connectors at digikey or mouser. if you want to narrow it; normally its the XH series used in RC and in a few positions here. most of the connectors in the voron are not JST at all, they are molex microfit and to call them all JST is not just lazy (not saying thats what you are doing, just that its common to do so, just like calling them all molex), its straight wrong and you wont find what you want if that is your search term. when designing a PCB I would typically avoid JST connectors at all costs. it is a brand and type that probably would have died out without RC and budget ebay electronics offerings. RC is responsible for extending the life of many connectors that would/should have died out years ago IMO :P
Very good video - ordered a V0.1 to try hopefully a simpler build as I n00b. By the way did you notice that your middle voron at the end the hotend fan was stopping and starting? Might wanna check that! Also donating them is an amazing thing, my school has XYZ 3d printers and they are not great quality and hideously slow. I'd so love to get some vorons for that school!!!!
Great video! So here's a blooper, at 13:05. Removes the carriage from the linear rail and loses a load of ball bearings onto the desk :) BE CAREFUL when taking the carriage off the rails. The bearings WILL fall out. Even one lost ball bearing will mess up your rail.
this is awesome content. really good. the first professional video about assembling a voron. there are great videos and streams but those are hours over hours and very tedious to watch through. I love this video and instantly shared it with a lot of people --- but what is up with the fps? is it just 24fps or is my youtube broke? this is giving me a headache.
Speaking of connector names... the things you were calling 'Molex' connectors were really Dupont connectors. Molex are much beefier and have recessed plastic interlocks. Dupont are the little pin-socket connectors like they use for LED strip connectors or PCB pins.
Don't make any changes to the steps/mm or rotation_distance, whichever you're using, in your firmware based on those measurements of the calibration cube. ABS shrinks. If you print it in PLA, you'll have 30mm on X and Y. ABS will always be slightly undersized after it cools
great video! thank you! what are the average speeds you use in your makes provided with good quality? will delta (e.g. flsun v400) print faster than voron 2.4 (with same quality)?
Great video, but a few thoughts. 1. The recommended dragchains are very undersized for the number of wires used, bend radius is a bit too agressive as well, needs to be redesigned to use slightly larger ones, or simply go to a canbus from the start. 2. Electronics, buyer beware when purchasing electrical components from aliexpress or amazon, more often than not they are misslabeled to look better than they are, one common such item is ssr's they are routinely misslabeled to look like they are rated at spec when its just a sticker.. Be mindful of laws and regulations of where you live regarding electronics. 3. Make damn sure that you know what youre doing when fiddling with electrical wiring, measure every connection for continuity and resistance before going live. Electronics are easy to get right but can be lethal if you make a misstake. The resistance measurements are important, dont skip them, a bad connection will most likely heat up and possibly start a fire, dont expect a fuse to save you. 4. Health hazards in the use-case of fdm is generally hyperbolic online, which is almost as bad as understating them. Yes theres offgassing when printing, will it harm you? Not really, at least not for consumer grade filaments and scale. im pretty certain noone watching are handling pom or acetals, which actually are dangerous. Most risks arise when you machine, sand or burn the plastics, for which you should use proper ppe. As for pla, petg, abs etc, you will most likely be dead long before those particulates will start bothering you. More likely from the toxic foods, or poisonous dyes in your clothing etc etc.. Use some common sense, open a window, dont huff any fumes coming from the machine, dont use it in a living area like your bedroom, and try not to eat the filament. With regards, a plastic injection worker. P.s not meant to belittle or be confrontational, just dampening the existential dread thats going around online. Feel free to disagree.
Is the bottom panel made from Coroplast? And if so, how does it hold up to the heat generated by the bed heater? Does it warp in time or or does it retain its shape?
Nice, but have you considered using some FFC / FPC Cable instead of the silicon coated individual cables? The flatness would greatly benefit the smaller channel space and the constant bending would be much of an issue for it. Also, I think the AC going to the bed should be ground isolated for safety. A 1:1 isolation transformer should be inserted in there between the mains plug and the AC triac switch. Any cables that carry above 50v should be clearly marked that they do so and caution should be taken around them. I can imagine issues with moving it with hands underneath if it were still plugged in.
“Abs wasn’t just chosen for it’s heat deflection temperature. It was also picked for its high tensile strength and CHEMCIAL resistance” I can’t think of a filament material with worse chemical resistance than abs. Lol that stuff breaks down at the sight of xylene, toluene, acetone, and even weakens with mineral spirits. I’d recommend colorfabb ht or xt. You could also use polycarbonate if you have a capable printer.
I was talking about oil and grease. If you have xylene, toluene or any of those solvents near your printer then you are going to have more problems than just your ABS parts degrading. Polycarbonate is very brittle when printed. Not recommended for Voron parts
All of the solvents mentioned have there place in various bed adhesives. When these bed adhesives are used (most commonly acetone + xylene + abs aka. Abs slurry) the vapors are cooked off when the bed is heated. These vapors WILL slowly degrade all abs parts. If you don’t plan on printing abs or asa that’s one thing but I don’t like limiting what I can and cannot print. Unless you’re using petroleum based products directly on your plastic parts, Oil and grease isn’t gonna degrade anything so mentioning that isn’t really of any use. Also, polycarbonate can be printed with a heated chamber and come out ok, or you can get various pro or plus products which have been formulated specifically for printing. Just like any filament polycarbonate requires calibration. The only point I was really trying to make is that abs is the least resistant to chemicals of any filament out there. (Excluding isopropyl smoothing filaments and dissolvable supports)
I appreciate your thorough response. And I admit chemical resistance was a poor choice of wording. But you should not point people towards polycarbonate by acting like ABS is going to degrade due the vapors produced by common bed adhesives. There are thousands of Voron printers and even more commercial ones that use ABS parts. I have not heard of a single example of vapor melting an ABS component beyond anything aesthetic (e.g., slightly smoother surface). You can go to great lengths to print PC at the perfect conditions, but you will still end up with a part that is more brittle. A certain amount of flexibility is required so that the gantry does not snap when performing QGL
Excellent work! You did a great job of boiling down the most confusing parts about the VORON ecosystem into a concise explanation. Glad you’re enjoying the machines and kudos on donating some VORONs to education. Hope they serve them well.
It means a lot coming from the OG! Your (and the team's) designs are top notch and I look forward to building more Voron printers in the future.
price tho guys common! use your potential purchasing power to reduce the cost to end user. Everything voron is beautiful, list kits in general are a great thing but raw costs on individual parts for the single consumer to build anything these days is such an expensive route often far greater than the respective shipping, storage,sorting fees you would have to pass on to us poor poor big dreaming makers.
Much love.
There is a market opportunity for a sourcing company to make high-quality kits for popular voron builds with pre-greased rails and quality inspected components. A reliable one-stop-shop in the US could do well.
@@DrDFlo 3a
Amazing work. So detailed! I’ve been trying to avoid spending time I don’t have building a Voron, but…… I may have to 😂
You have to! It will benefit you and all the community
***do it***
Lol
You managed to summarize all the most important parts of the build in a much more precise and digestible way than the 12+ hour livestreams. Subscribed
Wow! Very well done and thorough video. You really did your homework on this one. I'm pretty sure this is going to become recommended viewing in the Voron Community. I built one of these a few months ago and am really happy with it. I have enough parts to build a second one but the Voron Trident was just introduced the other day and I am tempted to head off in that direction next. (RonC V2.1134)
This is the best voron build guide I've seen. Short and concise. God job 🎉
Great video. As someone who built a V2 this year, I appreciate all the explanation you do that would have helped a newbie during my build process. I do slightly disagree with how strictly you say you need to follow all the part sourcing as there are many people running non-spec parts, but for someone doing this for the first time, it's probably best they do everything perfectly to spec.
Coming from someone who has built the V2, I am glad that you see value in the topics I picked. There are still a lot of small things you will learn here and there when you build.
Regarding the BOM recommendations, that was more for the newcomer because it really slows down the build process if you have a couple parts that you tried to get a good deal on but they turn out not to fit...
@@DrDFlo Even your explanations of how each component functions and comes into play (for example the benefits of linear rails or why there is still a Z- endstop switch) were very good points to bring up. I'll definitely be sending this to friends who are interested in building one as a good "here's what you should know before you decide"
@@Katman77 Totally agree. This should be titled “Everything you wanted to know about VORON and a lot more you didn’t even know you wanted to know”.
dude your video on 3d printer building is epic....no one I know has that much info on the topic on youtube in there entire channel in the amount of detail you put into it....totally loved that video. As with your content being quiet long I do love when you put out content.
Really nicely done video, clearly explained :) thanks for taking the time to document this!
Appreciate it! When are you going to share some more details about that IDX build of yours?? 😜
@@DrDFlo Soon! Hardest part was cleaning up my work area to be able to do the livestream last weekend, now it's just doing the video :D
@@DrDFlo Please make video about semi auto M6 (manual tool change) on grbl.
I've been referencing your video frequently as I put my 2.4 together. Love your smile, good looks, the way you talk and explain things. Looking forward to more content :)
This is, hands down, the best video I've seen regarding V2.4 or just Vorons in general. I'll be bookmarking this to give to anyone who asks about building one. Great work!
I built a 1.8 a few months ago out of my old hypercube absolutley love it. Just click print come back a few hours later, print done, I never even check any more.
The other thing that is worth noting, with the discord server and various groups Voron related, you actually get more support with this than most (if not basically all) main stream 3d printers.
Hey man. I'm doing the same at a local makerspace. I've been buying everything from circuit level components, microcontrollers and hundreds of sensors, thousands of feet of wire, motors, filament and really good digital multimeters (to be put away for people who can't afford it) along with every type of screen you can imagine, thousands of leds of every type through hole, smd, neopixel rolls, jbc soldering station, solder, flux, braid. It's taken me almost 2 years to gather it all up. I couldn't name it all if I tried.
I don't watch most 3d printer channels anymore because they just let the printers rot or build a farm and some build (pew pews...). They should give them all to schools. I've spent the last year and a half learning and buying extra to donate. I'm not looking for kudos I. Saying more people should be like you.
You just sold me a 2.4 😂 Thank you for the video and details! It's awesome you're donating the printers to an after school program!
I just started building my voron and I love the fact thats even called them Eyedlers on page 23 at the instructions. I really dig the assemblyguides of the voron team.
totally inspiring, im gonna order my first 3d printer in a few days and once i get used to how 3d printers work im going to build my own !! thanks for the awesome content
Respect, you were on the Voron train before it became trendy
Gates belts makes an app that lets you measure tension using an app on your phone to measure frequency when you pluck the belt. Might be useful!
the voron community also has a tension meter that one can use to tensions the belts equally
I think it is very awesome that you are donating the printers!! Greetings from Argentina.
Easy when you get everything for free.
Nicely done! And finally someone that did not bought a pack with all the parts... Or not sent to him for free :D
Just when I was starting to feel accomplished because of the little mods I have been doing to my ender Neo, now I see this and I'm sure it would take me a life time to build this kind of machine. Great video in any case.
I used to work for a water-jet manufacture we used linear rails for holding the z carriage. They were costly since they were 10mm rails, and cams to keep it level and stable. We used ball screws at first than switched to harmonic drive motors on custom aluminum extrusions with a custom plastic for the wheels.
Great video though, very through and helped me see the engineering decisions they made.
The three point bed mount and the mounting method which allows for thermal expansion was one of the biggest reasons I ordered a RatRig V Core 3.
You should take a look at the Voron Trident, but the V-Core 3 is also a very solid printer.
@@vinnycordeiro just found the video from last week. I guess RatRig should be flattered.
@@jamesplace5622 My only gripe with Rat Rig's printers is that they still insists in using PETG for their printed parts. That means you are limited to print lower temperature thermoplastics to avoid heat deformation. Other than that they have some really cool features.
You're great man. I live in a small rural are and tried to donate stem stuff and was greeted with malice and suspicion. I have no idea why your channel has t blown up. I suspect the d-flo thing has something to do with it. My friends have called me j-stro since the late 90s hahaha
The absolute smartest choice for a main-board to use in a Voron is the one that you already have laying around.
good tip, thanks. you just saved me $250 on a Duet. I'll use my BTT Duet clone instead.
@@Welcome2TheInternet btt isn't a duet clone.
What a great video, as I start to think about building my voron this video was by far the most informative. Great content! Thank you for your work!
Great in depth video into the Voron assembly. I also loved that you donated these printers for education and let other people be mind blown with the power of 3d printing :)
I got my work place to buy the epsilon W50 along with the smart cabinet, we as use CF15 material and that printer does not disappoint!
I'll never build this but his videos are like that Avengers movie with double popcorn and a 6 pack beer.
His sense of humour dealing with the little ooopz be made and to clarify misunderstanding with possible Karen regarding the linear rail was a 10/10
Fantastic video mate, and good on you for the donation
liking not cause i can relate but cause i love building stuff and maaan this voron looks fun to build. the more complicated and finicky sumfin is the more i wanna do it
This was a solid video, it stayed interesting. The only thing that distracted me is your Gladiator Garageworks stuff is the self-assemble stuff, not the prebuilt ones. I got the self-assemble ones and they didn't fit right. So I went with all the pre-assembled ones now.
Outstanding review as always. Love the detailed analysis.
Great video, and wonderful that you are donating these printers to a school. Would love to see a follow up, as to what they come up with! Thank you
Love this guy. He's one smart dude, thats for damn sure.
Hey David, excellent video (as always!)
I'm in the process of building a HevORT 3D printer. It's going to be a tad bit bigger than yours at 565mm x 565mm x 590mm. Let me know if you need full-sized, one piece traffic cones printed...
I went with the HevORT since I could easily (more or less) scale the size to what I wanted. Also, I like the ballscrew/wobblewings approach to bed leveling, the support for bigger motors, it's beefiness, and the option for non-planar printing.
There's some serious drawbacks to my build, including the higher price of the parts, availability of those parts, and where to put the darn thing once I'm finished with it. And the frame "efficiency" is woeful compared to the Voron. Far more dead space in it.
Going that big caused problems finding places that even sold parts in the sizes that I needed, including 700mm long ball screws, 800mm long rails, and a 1000mm long, 20mm 20mm square carbon fiber tube (the rails and the tube will have to be cut, it isn't that big). The heated bed plate is 23.25" x 23.25" 1/4" ATP 5. MIC6 would have been a better material choice, but it's 2x the cost. And I won't start printing until things are heated up in any case, so expansion will be accounted for. I can always switch to MIC6 later if need be. I'll just be sure to mount the plate so that it floats.
The X & Y axes are going to be driven by Teknic servos, which will require 12mm belts. And the frame is made out of 3030 rather than 2020. I ordered the frame parts pre-cut from 8020.net, and they were pretty much spot-on with their cuts. With all of them either on the money, or within a millimeter. The price wasn't bad, $0.27 per inch, and $2.12 per cut. I highly recommend them. I'm looking into welding the frame together (why not?) since I'm shooting for some pretty high speeds with those servos.
In any case, another great build, and there are going to be some lucky kids getting to use some awesome printers!
Excellent video : )
Just a small correction or clarification to the extruder drive intel.
Galileo uses larger drive gears than Clockwork but smaller than LGX.
Clockwork uses Bondtech BMG's 1.75/5.0mm drive gears.
Galileo uses Bondtech QR's 1.75/8.0mm drive gears (or the new shorter drive gears supplied by Bondtech to LDO).
Bondtech LGX uses the new 1.75/18mm drive wheels.
Like the way you build it bro. amazing when you smile also while doing this.
Great video on the Voron V2.4. Nicely compressed, days of live streams are a bit much. The recently released Trident is getting a lot of interest now.
Nice video! I watched the entire thing! I was hoping you might cover the bed leveling and z offset a bit? I also commend you for pointing out the risks with nanoparticles and off gassing. People seem to disregard that and I cringe when i see people saying they run these machines in their bedroom, etc. I think I would lean towards fireproof panels (UL 94) over acrylic, just being safety minded as I am. Good job!
They're DIY machines. Of course they're in their bedrooms, where else would they be? Not everyone has a garage...
Dr. DFlo, i can’t express enough how glad I am that I stumbled on your channel. The knowledge and experience coupled with your ability to teach and explain in an understandable way is invaluable. This channel is a goldmine! Please never stop, this channel will be at 1mil very soon 😁
Great video. Just to correct a very important information, using higher voltage to the bed heater do not count alone for safer implementation. It is even unsafer when you connect it directly to the net mains. A safer implementation needs to have a galvanically isolation from the net, a isolation transformer for example. This will both avoid electrical shocks accident and will limits the short circuit current.
If the wire are too small for the crimper (or even the contacts) you are using then just double up the wire in the crimp. The extra wire will take up the space.
Might build one of these some day, just got WAY too much other things I got to get done first. One thing I think that would help is a small HEPA filter in addition to the activated carbon to remove at least some of the small particles. I personally designed and made a filter for my printer using activated carbon pre-filters and Roomba HEPA filters. No idea how effective it truly is but it's probably be better than nothing.
You have a design you can share or a link?
@@wayneyandell549 I never published it, but it's based off of the filter on thing:4054734 on Thingieverse, they also put up an assembly guide on YT: ua-cam.com/video/h7VDLeoQBYQ/v-deo.html&ab_channel=CarstenDalgaard
Same idea as their filter and enclosure. I just modified their design to make the enclosure bigger for my custom 5015 effector, but the principle is the same, i just changed it to work with my enclosure dimensions and used larger fans.
@@wayneyandell549 Actually NVM I did put it up on Thingieverse, I guess I just forgot: thing:4657322 It was just the door for the enclosure I didn't get around to publishing.
Thank you very, very much for this detailed video. What a tremendous amount of work this must have been. I own a CR-10S and got a serious itch to build a Voron2 now 🤩
I can totally relate to that pain you went through, so smashed the like button, no question asked. Great build key point tutorial, sir.
Enjoying your channel. I like that you leave the mistakes in - we can all learn from them. This was a very clear, very helpful video. Thank you!
i love the blue lightning to clean the bed
Amazing work! Congratulations! I'm glad I watched the whole thing.
Me: Barely has time for anything
Also me: An hour of pure information? I've got time for this.
I'm in this comment.
Aye. And not even planning to build Voron in the nearest future...
@@SebGruch same
I'm glad I found my old first gen raspberry pi to use as my alternative was a whole damn desktop server (might still switch back to that though as I can also control my other printers with it as well
Your >Clicky bed leveling tool system< can also be used as a Toolbar for many Tools, like different Nozzle or CNC Tools
That Voron is missing the Nevermore Duo under the bed for dealing with the fumes from ABS, since the stock exhaust filter is not enough.
as well as hepa filter in exhaust
This video has been a great source of advice and go to for sourcing components for my upcoming v0.1 build. Thank you!!
Man, this is one excellent video. Great job. My Voron 2.4 kit should be here in about a month. Thanks!
Another great video, great voron build. You deserve a million subscribers dude
Thank you for posting this! I was looking into this printer and this will be super helpful when building one!
I like you post this and they post Trident.
I know what are the chances... Making my graphics already obsolete
What is "trident"?
@@misteragony It is the next iteration of the Voron 1 line of printers. The Dev group is going from numbers to names because as I pointed out in the video the numbering scheme is confusing, but changing the name so late in process could lead to more people getting their wires crossed.
Best voron 2.4 build video I've seen yet. Thank you!
This was an EXCELLENT video and explaining a lot of gotchas. I'm psyched to attempt to build this printer.
I’m not sure how much I believe that one or a pair of MGN9 rails would be less strong compared the aluminum and V-Wheels, especially on something like a CNC Router. Also, I’d love to see what a Voron 2.X would be like using machine tools to create many of its parts instead of plain t-slot aluminum extrusions and mostly printed parts with tiny MGN rails (asides from far more massive costs of course).
Even I didn't get the point.
How can Plastic wheels on extrusion be stronger than hardened steel rails?
This printer is insane, but insane in a good way.
That was awesome, i think a voron will be my next printer now!
Those eyebrow idlers also provide more strength by increasing the wall count around the mount holes.
If you look for accurate dimensions, you need to calibrate your flow for each spool. with my V2, I can acheive 0.01mm accuracy on all axes ! Nice video ! I love the compact format !
Pretty simple explain about the belt motion is examing the right triangle shape with equal side and pythagorean formula. Core XY move fast cause they moving in the hypotenuse direction that mean moving as quicker as in c^2=a^2+b^2. You can see hypotenuse c is much greater compare to a and b side of the triangle when moving in diaginal. You may thought then if they move only a or b side will slower down but turn out they use 2 motor so the overall speed up. Like I mention they are moving like right triangle shape with equal size of a=b then when ever the motor turn in theoretical the belt will pull the hotend a displacement of a=b
Wow, the machine looks so beautiful!
The only thing better than two is three. I wish my apartment had the power circuits to do that - or the space! I've been consider the idea of starting a Voron project, so it was rather lovely to see the whole build process!
I love the variety of your channel, all your video are put together so nicely and are always fun to watch!!
note that wire current ratings need to be degraded inside a heated enclosure and drag chain, though you should probably be fine, but you might want to look at the temperature on the wires after like an hour at the maximum temp you wanna print at.
i got some metal reinforced nylon belts for my 3d printer. they have metal strands going though them kind of like a tire and its crazy how much less they stretch over time. after the initial stretch that all belts seem to do there is virtually none after that. run a handful of prints go back in to tighten everything down then you should be good to go.
Did you forget the thermal fuse on the build plate, or did I just miss it elsewhere in the build? Voron specs great SSRs, but they can still fail of course and not having a thermal fuse may leave you open to mains voltage bed heating runaway and potential fire, even when the machine is sitting idle.
I believe the Fermio Labs mats come with a "self resetting thermostat" which will turn the heater off if it gets into a thermal runaway, and then reset. I wish we had a company like Fermio in the US that had some of these more custom parts ready to go. I believe you can custom order this stuff direct from Keenovo, but it's more of a hassle and a bit more stressful making sure we do not spec something incorrectly.
I had a bit of hard time sourcing the build plate and had to get one a little bigger and without the slots for easier mounting.
@@CodeMonkeX You're correct. They'll just ensure that your heater stay on at around 150c until you notice it. I'm actually the one who got the SK-GO creator to remove them on his kits last year and replace them with real thermal fuses that are replaceable. Those bi-metal thermostats aren't particularly reliable and at that point it's the only thing between you and a thermal runaway. With external power surges being one of the main causes of SSR failure I'd be wary, especially with Voron spec'ing a medium time fuse on the AC input. Imagine being on vacation for a week and a surge makes the SSR fail while you're gone. You're now just hoping that the constant cycling of the thermostat doesn't wear out before you get back and notice it. IMO a thermostat is an improper replacement for a fuse as it doesn't actually stop the problem, but rather attempt to make it safer which is likely why the team specs a real thermal fuse.
Thinking about the extrusions warping the linear rails, you could put a bead of thickened epoxy on the extrusions. Lay a thin sheet of paper or plastic on top of that, and then fasten the linear rails one screw top and bottom and just barely tighten. The epoxy will conform to the gaps between the parts, and once set and you add the rest of the fasteners, the rail won't be warped.
I had no idea you owned a voron, now i do, cool-guy you :p
Ahhh I love your Duat Wifi DIN rail adapter is genius! Perfect for my Little Monster... Thanks :-)
You magnetized your ball bearings! I did it too before I realized why it might be a bad idea. Now any iron they might find will jam up Into the ball path.
Great vid. Wouldn't oil be better than grease for the rail balls, for the lower rolling resistance?
Great video mate, thanks a lot for your time.
JST is a single small, generally kind of cheap and nasty subset/brand of these type of connectors and by no means interchangeable with Molex, or any of the other hundred or so similar connectors at digikey or mouser. if you want to narrow it; normally its the XH series used in RC and in a few positions here. most of the connectors in the voron are not JST at all, they are molex microfit and to call them all JST is not just lazy (not saying thats what you are doing, just that its common to do so, just like calling them all molex), its straight wrong and you wont find what you want if that is your search term. when designing a PCB I would typically avoid JST connectors at all costs.
it is a brand and type that probably would have died out without RC and budget ebay electronics offerings. RC is responsible for extending the life of many connectors that would/should have died out years ago IMO :P
I must say great info on the build
Very good video - ordered a V0.1 to try hopefully a simpler build as I n00b. By the way did you notice that your middle voron at the end the hotend fan was stopping and starting? Might wanna check that! Also donating them is an amazing thing, my school has XYZ 3d printers and they are not great quality and hideously slow. I'd so love to get some vorons for that school!!!!
instead of destroying the housing of a perfectly good blower fan, why not ... redesign the housing? or at least give it a trim?
Great video! So here's a blooper, at 13:05. Removes the carriage from the linear rail and loses a load of ball bearings onto the desk :) BE CAREFUL when taking the carriage off the rails. The bearings WILL fall out. Even one lost ball bearing will mess up your rail.
I gotta build one! Great video
I'm trying to click the subscribe button again until I realize I've already subscribed. :D
this is awesome content. really good. the first professional video about assembling a voron. there are great videos and streams but those are hours over hours and very tedious to watch through. I love this video and instantly shared it with a lot of people
---
but what is up with the fps? is it just 24fps or is my youtube broke? this is giving me a headache.
Speaking of connector names... the things you were calling 'Molex' connectors were really Dupont connectors. Molex are much beefier and have recessed plastic interlocks. Dupont are the little pin-socket connectors like they use for LED strip connectors or PCB pins.
Don't make any changes to the steps/mm or rotation_distance, whichever you're using, in your firmware based on those measurements of the calibration cube. ABS shrinks. If you print it in PLA, you'll have 30mm on X and Y. ABS will always be slightly undersized after it cools
Great video! Love the quick but detailed explanations of various features.
It’s amazing! Big thanks for your work and positive!
@59:31. I'm new to Vorons. Is that clip standard? Is there a link to the CAD, STL or 3MF file? THX!
great video! thank you! what are the average speeds you use in your makes provided with good quality? will delta (e.g. flsun v400) print faster than voron 2.4 (with same quality)?
Thank you, it is very educative. Im in process of building, and I learned some important things. Hope to see some more videos with Voron! Well done!
Great video, but a few thoughts.
1. The recommended dragchains are very undersized for the number of wires used, bend radius is a bit too agressive as well, needs to be redesigned to use slightly larger ones, or simply go to a canbus from the start.
2. Electronics, buyer beware when purchasing electrical components from aliexpress or amazon, more often than not they are misslabeled to look better than they are, one common such item is ssr's they are routinely misslabeled to look like they are rated at spec when its just a sticker..
Be mindful of laws and regulations of where you live regarding electronics.
3. Make damn sure that you know what youre doing when fiddling with electrical wiring, measure every connection for continuity and resistance before going live.
Electronics are easy to get right but can be lethal if you make a misstake.
The resistance measurements are important, dont skip them, a bad connection will most likely heat up and possibly start a fire, dont expect a fuse to save you.
4. Health hazards in the use-case of fdm is generally hyperbolic online, which is almost as bad as understating them.
Yes theres offgassing when printing, will it harm you?
Not really, at least not for consumer grade filaments and scale. im pretty certain noone watching are handling pom or acetals, which actually are dangerous.
Most risks arise when you machine, sand or burn the plastics, for which you should use proper ppe.
As for pla, petg, abs etc, you will most likely be dead long before those particulates will start bothering you.
More likely from the toxic foods, or poisonous dyes in your clothing etc etc..
Use some common sense, open a window, dont huff any fumes coming from the machine, dont use it in a living area like your bedroom, and try not to eat the filament.
With regards, a plastic injection worker.
P.s not meant to belittle or be confrontational, just dampening the existential dread thats going around online. Feel free to disagree.
Thank you for your video and content here, provided a lot of clarity.
Is the bottom panel made from Coroplast? And if so, how does it hold up to the heat generated by the bed heater? Does it warp in time or or does it retain its shape?
Nice, but have you considered using some FFC / FPC Cable instead of the silicon coated individual cables? The flatness would greatly benefit the smaller channel space and the constant bending would be much of an issue for it.
Also, I think the AC going to the bed should be ground isolated for safety. A 1:1 isolation transformer should be inserted in there between the mains plug and the AC triac switch. Any cables that carry above 50v should be clearly marked that they do so and caution should be taken around them. I can imagine issues with moving it with hands underneath if it were still plugged in.
great video my friend, you deserve a lot more subs, hope you grow big
HI dear, what is full cost of this machine please? Best regards.
"Those kinds of people make me SICK" Best line of the video, I laughed for a while. Good stuff
“Abs wasn’t just chosen for it’s heat deflection temperature. It was also picked for its high tensile strength and CHEMCIAL resistance”
I can’t think of a filament material with worse chemical resistance than abs. Lol that stuff breaks down at the sight of xylene, toluene, acetone, and even weakens with mineral spirits.
I’d recommend colorfabb ht or xt. You could also use polycarbonate if you have a capable printer.
I was talking about oil and grease. If you have xylene, toluene or any of those solvents near your printer then you are going to have more problems than just your ABS parts degrading. Polycarbonate is very brittle when printed. Not recommended for Voron parts
All of the solvents mentioned have there place in various bed adhesives. When these bed adhesives are used (most commonly acetone + xylene + abs aka. Abs slurry) the vapors are cooked off when the bed is heated. These vapors WILL slowly degrade all abs parts. If you don’t plan on printing abs or asa that’s one thing but I don’t like limiting what I can and cannot print.
Unless you’re using petroleum based products directly on your plastic parts, Oil and grease isn’t gonna degrade anything so mentioning that isn’t really of any use.
Also, polycarbonate can be printed with a heated chamber and come out ok, or you can get various pro or plus products which have been formulated specifically for printing. Just like any filament polycarbonate requires calibration.
The only point I was really trying to make is that abs is the least resistant to chemicals of any filament out there. (Excluding isopropyl smoothing filaments and dissolvable supports)
I appreciate your thorough response. And I admit chemical resistance was a poor choice of wording.
But you should not point people towards polycarbonate by acting like ABS is going to degrade due the vapors produced by common bed adhesives.
There are thousands of Voron printers and even more commercial ones that use ABS parts. I have not heard of a single example of vapor melting an ABS component beyond anything aesthetic (e.g., slightly smoother surface).
You can go to great lengths to print PC at the perfect conditions, but you will still end up with a part that is more brittle. A certain amount of flexibility is required so that the gantry does not snap when performing QGL