1970 Challenger Complete floor install with front frame rail & 4 speed tunnel restoration video 5
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- In this video the 1970 Challenger R/T gets a new front frame rail, full floor pan, tow pans 4 speed shifter tunnel and all the brackets that go along with the floor install. Then I prep the entire new bottom section of the car to be sealed up in epoxy primer.
#automobile #hotrod #musclecar #challenger #restoration #classiccars #dodge #rustmobile
Follow future videos of this car after we are done with it here...
/ mike whelan
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carthage-class...
your love for what you do shows through your work and the videos are getting better and better thanks for keeping these cars alive
Thank you very much. I am trying to do better each time with the cars and the editing and glad its showing.
Let's gooo! Nice work Rick!
Thank you very much!
Your videos are better every time! ( in my opinion the 30 minute video will get more views) and like you said anyone can go to your Playlist and get the step by step instructions if it's thier first time! Keep up the awesome work Rick ( and family)!!!
Thank you very much for watching and the feedback. The win win here is these style are easier for myself to film also as I just work and don't have to stop the building process for thoughts ect
Good video, thanks for sharing. Have a good Easter.
You're welcome same to you!
U r a beast bro. you put the car together way better than the factory ever thought about lol. Very informative enjoy all your vids
Thank you very much!
Rock love the video, your attention to detail is second to none and inspire me to be better. Looking forward to the passenger outer rocker install and the rest of the car. As usual, great job, thanks.
Thank you very much for watching and the feedback I do really appreciate it.
Another excellent video Rick!! I only wish you did these two years ago when I was doing the same to my Road Runner!
Thank you, trust me I know the feeling as I have cars I built in the past and just didn't have the knowledge at the time. We all live, learn and get better from it. Enjoy your car.
FLAWLEESS 🍻 . That R/T Is in good hands 👍🏼
Thank you very much!
That E-coat that comes on replacement panels will sometimes fail and anything sprayed over it will peel off with the E-coat, lol. Always smart to remove it.
I do agree and feel the best time to make that decision is before the panels go on the car for the best protection. Thanks for the feedback and watching.
Thanks for a great video, I’m doing this on my 70 Challenger right now and there’s some great tips in your video!
You are welcome great to hear it helped out good luck on your build let me know how it comes out.
You should be proud. Looks really good.
Thank you very much!
Looks awesome Rick!
Thank you!
Better than the factory!
Thank you
As always very impressive!!
Thank you very much
I like your attention to detail. I did notice when shaving the firewall on 64 impala that I had to raise the temperature especially wire speed due to weld through primer. I thought the machine was acting up lol.
Yes I mean the less of evils here is the harder it might be to weld it really does hold up to the heat around the welded areas and provides good protection vs other paints that would delaminate leaving bare metal
Fantastic job Rick, really glad you showed everyone how bad things can be under the upper cowel.
Thank you, yes most don't realize until it too late and there is air and water coming inside the car from under the dash.
Amazing builder i been doing this work since 1971 right out of school,this guy does cars absolutely the way a car should be rebuilt .NEVER PUT FILLER OVER BARE METAL.
Thank you very much and yes epoxy is great at what it is designed for.
Killer work and details. Happy Easter boss!
Thank you and same to you
Looking better and better,proves even rusted down to ❤😊💯🏁 barely recognizable can be rebuilt .there are those who believe it's not worth the effort,just part them out or junk them they say.i believe they are jealous or don't have the skills to do the work,or maybe just lazy
Thank you very much, I will say I personally like these that are further gone I feel most of the time we have more adjustment to play with since there is less parts to start with to make them nicer and we get most of the internal rust which I see most of them have removed.
@@carthageclassiccars well said.absolute truth.
Very nice work ....great content and thanks
Thank you very much for watching and the feedback and welcome.
It looks amazing. I don’t see how anyone can restore one without removing that upper bulkhead panel, they all seem to be rotted out under there? And rust isn’t rust, so much as it’s where your cars strength isn’t there anymore. Now it’s all full metal depth :o)
Thank you. I do agree most of the ones I have seen are usually really bad there, Its also very hard to get too or see until you do remove it.
Another great video I honestly feel like I learned so much watching you. I ordered a couple stickers from you to support channel. I really don’t need any T-shirts lol.
Thanks a lot for the support and especially buying the stickers that really means a lot. Its great to hear I also helped show you some stuff.
Impressive work.
Thank you!
Goooood evening all!
Good evening thanks for watching
Your attention to detail Rick does not disappoint. Very impressive. Thank you for sharing the resurrection of this classic muscle car.
You are welcome thank you for also taking the time to watch and comment.
Love the videos, thank you sir!
Thank you I appreciate you watching!
As always., great work! But you make me nervous when you're not using gloves when welding. The intense UV-radiation can cause you problems down the road. Safety first 🙂 Greetings from the guy in Sweden 👍😁
Thank you, also your statement is 100% correct and I am trying to be healthier and safer in my life. I might try and start working up towards wearing them, been so many years without them its hard to get that same feel, but there really isn't a good excuse.
Fantastic job Rick, really happy, you showed amazing restoration process with detail. wishing you good luck from Pakistani Workshops.
Thank you very much for watching and the comment!
@@carthageclassiccars u always welcome.
Love your videos 😊
Thank you!
Rick if it’s not too late (I don’t know how far ahead you are on the job vs where the videos are at) please try to include some details on that section of repair near the drip rails. I’m working on that with my car and I think I’m being overly critical on the accuracy of the bend angles etc. thanks! Great job as always!
thanks, I have a video series on a 73 Challenger with a video in there in particular you might want to check out "Ospho video" where I go over in detail the repair section of the roof, this video is pushing through with no stopping as requested by a bunch of youtubers from their suggestions.
Maybe when you get done a quick recap of where any original sheetmetal stayed would be helpful. I’m thinking it’s not very much.
It wasn't very much actually the previous video where the car started is all that stayed minus the firewall and cowl. I don't plan on cutting any more out of this car after this firewall
I really like that the E coating has been removed, I have zero faith in that stuff! The epoxy primer top and bottom just really seems to make all the difference for me and ensure real longevity. Also it seems it’s mandatory to replace cowl on these E Body cars..?
Thank you and 100% correct there has been very few cars I have seen in the e-body restoration state I feel the cowl is worth really saving.
I’m looking forward to starting my 74 Charger, watching what and how you do your process of sheet metal replacement is going to help me extremely ,and always a great job in putting together your videos, keep making them, and we will watch!👍🇨🇦
Thank you and awesome to hear good luck on your charger build let me know how it turns out.
I'm just trying to figure out how this is considered a repop of a stock car because there's virtually nothing original left. Anyway the work done looks awesome and your tendency of more than just necessary is pretty cool I think.
Thank you very much and yes there has been a debate on what's left being is it still the car. One way or another this car was brought back to life for many to see so one way or another I am good with the decisions to replace.
Outstanding attention to detail and making sure the job is done better than factory!
Rick can you give a range of pricing on what these massive jobs like this one would cost? I know every job is different but a range of possible?
Thank you very much, feel free to email at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com with what you have or send me your phone number and I can call you to discuss. Price and time is not something I like to talk in the public post for a few reasons.
@@carthageclassiccars I understand, thank you.
Rick rocks! Always good informative instructional videos.
Thank you very much
A ton of information. Well done. Like your comments about being proud. That's key to a great outcome.
Thank you very much I do agree I think you need to be passionate about the project your working on for it to come out better and see the owners dream while also being on the same page as them.
Impressive…very impressive. Thanks Rick.
Thank you very much!
I truly enjoy your videos Rick, you're so thorough and you make it look easy, thanks for sharing, can't wait for the next video!!!
You are welcome, thanks for following along with the build.
Another great video , really enjoy your builds thanks .
Thank you!
Great video again! I have a question.....you drilled with self tapping screws thru the floor and into/ thru the top flair of the cross members. Did your weld fill the hole all the way down to the rail OR did you have to come back and weld the bottom side the same way you did the top of the floorpan?
That is a really good question, yes I usually have to go back and get a few of the screws that didn't go all the way to the bottom. For time sake I skipped the time i spent under this car grinding welds and tacking a few screw spots. I will say usually I will skip the underneath portion and come back to it if I know the car is going on a rotisserie and I can stand up and clean the bottom one shot, but the future of this car is still up in the air as far as who is doing what with it so better to get it all cleaned up now
Amazing work, I will definitely reach out to you when ready to do my Cuda. Is it possible to strip the car and just send you a shell?
Thank you and right now with the amount of storage at the shop I have been taking these projects on is with as little parts as the owners can send them in so that would be perfect.
So is e coat basically for storage and shipping purposes not for putting the panel and paint correct? Better to strip all e coat?
I feel e coat is far less superior then epoxy. There are some cars where we DA sand most of it off or bare minimum scuff on the interior at that point not being exposes to the elements and if it doesn't come off with an 80 grit you should be good. However external body 100% i am for stripping the e coat all those hours of bodywork is only as good as your base.
Great video! I’ve gone back a few times to watch this for reference. I’m not sure how to deal with the lower edge of the rear toe pans where they meet the main floor pan. I’m using all AMD parts and it seems like there will be a gap inside and underneath where the two panels meet up/ overlap. I’ve got the drivers side set in with screws and it’s pretty tight all around, but that lower fit seems odd. Any suggestions? Does it just get the rosette welds and seam sealed top and bottom?
Gap In the panels? Do you mean where the tunnel curves up? In that case screws should help pull it down. There should not really be a gap from the toe pans to the main floor pan at all. I would doublecheck the location of the main floor pan first. Are your rocker panels in straight? everything square? Also yes rosette welds and yes a little bit of seam sealer both sides would be more then fine.
@@carthageclassiccars thanks for the reply. I think it's just the raised stamping at the back edge of the main pan where the toe pans sit on top of. I can get it to sit down tight on to that raised part with screws, but on either side of that raised edge, it seems like there's a space. I'm sure I'll get it figured out.
Thanks again!
@@flynnyization Good luck with it. I am sure you will figure it out.
What size mig wire u use to weld the 4 speed tunnel. That doesn't burn through
So its .030 wire, but its not the wire, its proper wire feed, travel speed, to power and technique oh how to move the weld around to speed up and back over you last spot. If you gave me .025 wire I would turn up my wire speed a bit and run the same bead
I Rick, I had nothing to go by, but do you know the dimensions of the tank support brackets under the trunk floor. Thank you.
Check out a video I did on a 73 challenger I believe I listed it as trunk install where I go over in detail the measurements. Let me know if you can't find it.
What compressor do you recommend and gun
So compressor is about the CFM (cubic feet per minute) i feel more then the storage tank. Right now I am running 25 CFM at i think its 90 psi. I would say if your using the air tools I wouldn't go too much lower then that. With the HVLP paint guns you should be good at 15CFM. Paint gun this is the devilbiss starting line, I think it works pretty good as a cheaper base clear gun in the body world. If you are just shooting primer like this you can get away with a harbor freight special. prime some test parts first or a sheet of paper like i did make sure it looks good.
Did I miss this weeks video? Lol
Working on the next one now, hopefully soon, thanks for watching this one!
"Promosm" 🌷