TIG Welding Sheet Metal Patches Step by Step restoration work with tips and tricks
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- On this video we are working on new body panels on a 72 Challenger where the Owner wants to shave down the door handles and marker lights front and rear. I got over from start to finish how to patch up the holes and TIG weld them to a smooth finish, including cutting out the old pieces with all the prep work involved. We go over how to setup the TIG welder and put the camera under a welding mask as we make a few TIG passes. After the TIG process is over I then show how I go about with a hammer, dolly and other tools to finish off the area before a little bit of body work will be performed.
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carthage-class...
#tigwelding #metalworking #customcars
I've been doing this for a while and you still taught me something, appreciate the video.
You are welcome, thanks for watching and the feedback!
Making it look so easy. Great instruction and tips to avoid mistakes! Very nice.
Thank you
That's stuff I learned in my teens and in my 50th's. I Very Impressed. You had and AMAZING TEACHER. WELL DONE.
Thank you very much and I give credit to more then just one teacher sharing the experiences they learned
Very cool. Got a lot of sheetmetal to do on my Jeep comanche. The amount of time you just dedicated to a 4x5 inch rectangle has me like “omg” 😂
Hang in there, If they make full panels I recommend going that route first as it would save you a lot of time. Also patching if you try and patch close to a body line your risk of warping will be far greater and easier to correct. This was one example of a harder area to weld / metal work as it has no support around it.
underrated video. Thx for sharing. good if not best information available on youtube.
You're Welcome. I appreciate it!
Great tips
Thank you!
Outstanding work!!
Thank you very much
To match sheet metal gauge, I like to salvage sheet metal from similar cars. A lot of the stuff from that era was actually 19 gauge, which is hard to get.
That is a good tip and you are correct, personally in what I am doing it just isn't cost effective to go that route
So how did I not find your channel before now. Extremely helpful.
Thanks a lot it's really great to hear that
This is gold. From so many perspectives.
Thank you very much!
Thanks so much for this in depth video. I learned a lot. I have been using the 60 degree tungsten grind I found it a bit broad and harder to control. I will be trying the 30 degree grind.
You are welcome, feel free to let me know what you think of the 30 degree grind
Great vidio I've been a welder fabricator professionally all my life but had no experience with body work I learned so much from your vidio's you are very good at explaining the details so someone learning to do body work can achieve results they can be proud of. Keep up the great work. Thanks😊😊
Thanks a lot I appreciate the feedback!
Great video! I have been wanting to learn TIG for a while now and this is very helpful instruction.
Thank you. If you get to sit down on a system start out with 1/8 to 1/4 mild steel scrap and don't even mess with filler rod. Strike an arch and do straight line runs controlling the puddle with the amperage walking it in a line. If your not welding two pieces together no need for filler. Once you're comfortable with the Torch side of things then you can go ahead and add the filler hand. This will allow you so walk before you start running.
You are that dude Professor Metal
Haha thanks a lot
One thing I notice that you do vs many other metal workers is rounding the corners on patch panels, did years of millwright work on repairing equipment and first thing you do is drill the end of the crack to stop it traveling before you weld, just a really good practice to remove future problems, have seen cracking at the back of 69 Camaro side windows from just that sharp corner
Your right I have also heard about drilling a hole to stop cracks. I also feel when you round your corners it keeps the heat from peaking that area. Thanks a lot for the tip!
Very informative . I have had no experience of any sort of welding . This vid for me opened a few doors!
Excellent.
That's great to hear, thank you and good luck if you decide to try it out.
Enjoyable video.
Thank you for no music.
Mig wires’ hardness is S 6.
It is very hard .
Grinding and planishing that bead is difficult, it will also kill your English wheel and planishing hammer.
On the other hand, TIG wire filler rod is S 2 hardness .
Much softer.
In and of itself, the TIG process gives you a softer weld , but using s6 rod lets you planish it out very easily.
I do realize that .030 wire size might not be easy to find in TIG rod..
Silicon bronze is also nice and soft for sheet metal.
Just a personal observation, I enjoy your videos very much
Thank you and very good input. You are correct on everything you stated with. The rod hardness settings do play a role in it which I did not cover and with the .030 rod usually I twirl up some mig wire which i know would be harder. I do use silicon bronze on usually seams or unlike metals that need to be adhered, however personally I try to avoid it most of the time on body panels being you are not actually welding the metal together since the bronze melts at a lower temp its like soldering in a sense. I don't feel a butt joint would be as strong. Saying that how much pressure will these pieces have so I am not saying your wrong and we all have our styles we are comfortable with. I agree the SIB is so much nicer to hammer out, Thanks again for the input you contributed.
Thank you for showing the right way to do metal work. Love the channel.
Your welcome thanks for the feedback and checking it out
Super video and great workmanship, I like the electric door poppers but I hope the guy maintains the inside manual door handle for emergencies.
Thank you and great advice, I will suggest it. I informed him this was territory I knew nothing about minus the actual closing of the door handle portion.
@@carthageclassiccars use an electric door openers was popular 20 years ago people eliminated inside and outside door handles and then got involved in an accident that cut power to open the doors and got trapped in the cars and they caught fire they couldn't be saved. Hot rod magazine strongly suggested keeping inside door handles manual not electric
@@mrpurcountry That makes complete sense thanks again for all the advice and feedback!
Great video Rick, awesome presentation!
Thank you Skip!
Great video. I might have missed it but did you mention the tungsten size?
I can't remember if i mentioned it but that 18 gauge sheet metal usually I will use red band 1/16 inch tungsten or lately I have been using a CK woldwide "all in one hybrid" tungsten
Very nice explanation on TIG! Thanks! 🤩👍
You're welcome!
Great video. I appreciate the chance to learn.
Hopefully down the road you get a chance to try it it, thank you!
Very interesting video thanks for sharing it with us.
You're welcome thanks for checking it out!
Another great video right on brother
Thanks for the support!
Excellent video. Under what circumstances would you want to use the 60 degree tungsten with the wider pattern? It seems like to you'd always want to have the most focused arc.
For instance TIG brazing I always want a wider arc so not to get the penetration and just melt the brazing rod. If you have a wider arc you can dip around the edges better to suck it in for instance if you are at a weird angle and can't get the rod directly in. That is also the case if for some reason you don't have as tight of a fitup and moving you filler rod to fill the gap you can run a straight run but weld wider. Sometimes its just user preference what they feel works better for them.
Thanks for the information!
You're welcome
Wow! You have some amazing welding skills!!! Had to subscribe, love the content.
Thanks a lot appreciate you checking out my videos!
Awesome video, learned lots!
Great to hear and thank you!
Good stuff ...sounds a little like Nicholas Cage ,but honestly good stuff thank you
Haha thanks a lot. I will take that and have been called worse
Nice work.
Thank you!
Great job!
Thanks!
Great video I wikk be watching more.
Thank you very much!
Very good info
Thank you
Cheers mate most helpful
Awesome to hear and Cheers!
Nice bro! Video done well! Thank you
Your welcome thanks for checking it out!
Nice
Thanks!
Nicely done as always. But I consider a bad choice by the owner
The car will be unique but hard to not like a old Challenger with a cage and mini tubs that should have a bunch of HP.
Is there a reason to cover the patch with fiberglass filler? Is it because the metal doesn’t expand the same in the sun? Thank you for your time
The only reason I use fiberglass on metal patches is that is it water proof and won't absorb moisture like most every other filler. A lot of time when MIG welding in patches you can have pin holes in the weld that could get behind filler/ paint and rust. Fiberglass would put a waterproof barrier between the patch and the painted surface.
Attention to detail is key most would cut and weld with no finessing nice job.
Thank you very much!
Great video, I have not done any tig welding yet. I was looking to purchase a new tig welder To get started on some external patch panels I have to do. What Tig welding machine would you recommend to get started. Thanks for the video and the welding class.
I honestly wish I could give you a recommendation however I don't want to lead you wrong. I have only actually used 3 different machines so far in my life and the one in this video actually was the cheapest out of all of them. Its more of the miller starting ac/dc line but still really pricey for what I have seen the off brand systems go for. There is also a lot I upgraded on this machine that I wasn't really happy with once i really started working it a lot. Look at reviews, the largest price jump I feel is going to the AC/DC vs the straight DC systems. If you know you have no use for aluminum now or in the future a DC only system might be your best bet to get your foot in the door. Thanks for watching and good luck on your purchase if you do end up buying one.
Muchas gracias por tu excelente explicación, consulta, que utilizas como varilla de aporte? Que material? Gracias!
De nada, gracias por mirar. La varilla de relleno que uso es ER70s-2
You have used silicone bronze in the past for the seams. Are they any advantages to use this on panels?
On this since we can get to the back I feel there is no advantage if you were using the silicon bronze. Actually the weld here is going to be a lot stronger since its fused together not glued with the SIB.
Thanks for sharing ..New subscriber By any chance did you video the repair on the Charger frame rail? I could use some knowledge. I'm starting 1st B body project . again thanks for sharing
Thanks for subscribing. Unfortunately I did not film that repair. For some reason I did not think there would be so much interest in that kind of repair. I think next time I have a similar repair that is needed I will do the filming on it since there have been a few requests on it.
Hi Rick,
I also have a Miller Diversion (the 165 model) and I've added a foot pedal. I'm having difficulty tacking 19 gauge steel sheets. I have zero gap but when I apply heat the edges melt independently and a gap develops. Once this happens I can't rectify the situation. I've tried positioning a filler rod just above the area that I want to tack but the rod melts first (due to its small mass) and not the underlying metal. I would appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike, maybe email me if you get really stuck at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com if this doesn't help. Usually I am around 45 amps on that thickness metal and have the ability to back it off on the pedal. I think you are getting ahead of yourself and need to run just a puddle on some scrap metal first with no filler. You need to learn to control the arc puddle. What is happening is your not getting a puddle formed first so you need more initial heat from the torch with no filler. If you add filler before the puddle forms it does exactly what your running into. The filler rod especially with tacking is mostly to catch the blowout from the penetration if needed. When I run a weld on 18-19 gauge mild steel actually I barely even add filler to it just every so often when the gap is tight. It gets hard as you do need to pay attention working the amperage on that sweet spot with good penetration, walking a puddle, and not adding filler but letting the puddle suck it into itself. I know this was a quick summary of a major technique that takes some months of work to even get usable and years to master. I would recommend watching some 100% welding beginner tutorials before really getting too involved in the art of sheet metal TIG welding. Good luck once you figure it out the world of fabrication is really opened up even more.
Thanks Rick. I appreciate your comments. I'll practice some more based on your suggestions. Mike.
Also a question Tig would be ideal when you get behind the panel , as if you can’t get behind with a dolly a patch , mig would be a better option ?
I still personally will usually use a TIG most of the time if I can't access the back most of the time. There are spot weld pullers and other ways to get the panel planished out. If there is a way try and plan your cuts around how to get them stretched out. I will Use the MIG fast on edges a lot of times when adjusting gaps.
@@carthageclassiccars Thank You
What was the welder amps set up?
Rule of thumb for mild steel sheet metal is 1 amp per every .001 inch of thickness. 18 gauge on this door skin is 0.048 inches thick so i set my welder amps to around 45-50.
Is it necessary to have to use a foot pedal for tack welding and or seam welding all the time I'm looking into buying a entry level tig welder that's not a big name brand thanks?
No its not necessary and I do use just the switch sometimes instead of the pedal. I feel the pedal helps control heat as its easy to vary amperage but also the speed you weld and how much filler you add also can be used as heat control.
@@carthageclassiccars I'm looking at buying the ahp tig welder want to start welding body panels skins
@@rongamble9884 I have never messed with one so don't know how well it would work. Look into make sure its not scratch start as that might be hard to do with this kind of work
@@carthageclassiccars they said it's a high frequency start where you just put the torch down to the area to weld I'm looking at it as entry level to start with and not put out couple thousand to start out with
@@rongamble9884 I don't blame you and yes High frequency start you should be good for this stuff.
Mr beast.. brother? Dad?
haha yes all the above ...thanks for the comment!
Dude !!! You offer internships!!!!
Haha thanks, I have worked on smaller projects with some people local.
If mr beast did DIY
haha is it sad I had to look up who that is.
well thats going to be difficult for a DIYER to afford
I think the only way for the DYIER to afford something like this is buy the welder and try and learn. Thats how I got started in this process in building cars. I do agree its not like it was back in the day and harder to enjoy this hobby without going broke, but what isn't that way now and days.
@@carthageclassiccars agreed amazon sells stuff cheap enough to at least learn with.
But where were all the tattoos and ear rings?
Ill have to work on that more lol!