For pillars on Necedah Tower ( See Facebook) , I used wet sand and kept it wet added plastic bags on top.For slabs i used soaker hose with tarp, if cold coming used foam board and tarp. I waited 8 hours before I placed it. i used 6 and 8 bag mix from the concrete co. mostly. i was doing this back before 2013 when many people did not know about wet curing. I also used fiber in all of the concrete. Love your channel!
Tyler, thanks for sharing the gospel of concrete. I found you as I research building with IFC which uses loads of concrete. In general if you could do a video on concretes' application via IFC that'd be great. If that's too much perhaps more specifically you could address if you have done experiments on or read research on concrete curing inside of IFC walls?
Interesting. Looks expensive to apply. Years back when I did a few bridge decks for FDOT, we used synthetic hybrid reusable blankets with a continuos feed of water applied via gravity drains from water tanks and garden soaker hoses. Stayed wet and didn't require any special tools or expertise. The water rate was specific to the length of the blankets or bridge. I think this system is probably more uniform and consistent. I forgot the name of the blankets but they were plastic on one side and had a felt fabric interior that stayed wet.
William Pozo I think it depends on the project location and size. I mean if you have a huge continuous concrete, it is nothing to bring a machine for pulpCure. Also in some places like California and Middle East, water resources are not always available and cheap. However can we use pulpCure with vertical members like columns because I see in the video it doesn’t stick to concrete surface.
Looks like hydroseeding pulp,(paper type, not erosion control fiber type), try it with a few percent water absorbing copolymer gel. (the goopy snot, not the firm beads) Not only will it hold even more water but it will be more pumpable and will tend to absorb the dew at night. Its used to help seed sprouting when not in the wet season and unable to irrigate. Cheap enough for grass seed should be cheap enough for concrete.
Hi Tyler, You mention you need special equipment to apply the pulp, so for the average person doing a home slab i guess it can't be done? I was wondering though, if i had access to shredded paper from an office building, could i lay a thick cover over the concrete slab and then drench it with water and cover with plastic or is there more to it? Also, will any of the colour coming out of the pulp / shredded paper colour the concrete?
I've not used it, but I would have if I'd known of it before the pour day. I set sprinklers on my slab and a timer. But...Sika UltraCure NCF is a plastic-coated cellulose fiber blanket for wet/moist curing. I found it listed for about $330 for 1,600 sq ft.
I really enjoy your information and presentation. Curing us vital of course. Track builders seldom have the time or interest in doing it right. An architect friend used old carpet , soaked it and then put plastic over that. South of Houston in an engineering community, owner builders would simply connect sprinklers to their home Wells and run the sprinklers for weeks. What about poured roof slabs in the tropics? Roof degredation from many factors is a real problem.
@@TylerLey , Thank you. It was an adventure to learn about concrete roofs in Puerto Rico after Maria! At first it seemed incredible that water stuck on the flat roofs could crack the concrete. But the evidence was finally overwhelming. Your explanation exactly describes the damages we witnessed.
I have seen a few buggered slabs from poor curing. Particularly hot windy days. For most house slabs it’s never done. I’m always recommending two layers of curing compound. It’s cheap and has to be better than most. Plastic over the TOP. My concern with black plastic (standard Builders plastic) it gets too hot under the plastic. Should that matter? This pulp mix seems like a lot of effort would have to see clear results it’s worth it. Some Builders just use the black plastic and seal around the edges with sand. Seems to hold moist very well as all the house slabs in Oz have plastic membranes under the slab. Once again great insight cheers Pulpo.
Thanks! I think black plastic can raise the temperature a lot. I prefer transparent plastic. That way you can see how your slab is doing underneath. Pulpcure is primarily useful to replace wet curing. These are concretes that you really want to add additional water to for hydration. Not all concretes need the best curing possible and so plastic and curing compounds are great for these applications. In fact, wet curing can make slab curling worse! Check this video out for more information: ua-cam.com/video/2U6OScAdVaI/v-deo.html
Try to keep it wet for a week if it is weight bearing. if you keep it wet for a month you will substantially increase its durability and strength. Do not let it dry until you finish the curing process. Do not take forms off pillars and walls or they will dry out. Some people take them off the day after but it will cause the concrete to not cure as well. Some loosen forms and have moisture or soaker hose on wall to let it trickle down but don't let air get to it and dry it out. I used plastic or mailing tape on my forms and that made the surface smooth and seals the water in while it cures, for plastic on forms i would not loosen the forms, it is time consuming though. See Necedah Tower on Facebook.
Something I'm not sure about; If you make a really low-water-content mix to get the strength, maybe 0.3, but then you keep it as wet as possible to cure? Even immerse? Sounds contradictory. Or do I suppose the low water content is important during the first few hours, until the concrete has set, then the curing water will no longer rinse out the cement?? I don't think I've heard you address this issue in any video?
Wow. You need to know about internal membrane technology Spray it on as soon as you’re done with finishing. Each molecule holds 300 molecules of water -- not only on the surface ( which can cause mottled surface curing ) It is equivalent to pond curing but allows immediate use ( without the danger of surface membrane cures )
I am confused. In another video, you state adding water onto concrete will result in a higher w/c ratio to surface concrete. And I recognize the idea of curing is to maintain water content within the concrete as long as possible in order to grow cementatious structures. However, how/why does the water within the pulp NOT migrate into the surface concrete and raise the w/c ratio? It seems like the best ‘cure’ would be a tight layer of plastic inhibiting any/as much as possible, water evaporation from the concrete. Is a wet cure simply the best tool we have available, albeit not the best theoretical tool? What about a sprayable wet binding epoxy?
I would think it could become super moldy. Would the mold hurt the concrete, maybe grow into it? Anyway, if it gets moldy I would think you wouldn’t want to reuse it.
Curing concrete is far too alkaline, to permit the growth of mold. The pH range for yeast growth is 3.5 to 4.5 and for molds is 3.5 to 8.0..... Concrete has a pH ~12.0 - pH 13.3. Alkalinity forms as a result of Portland cements reaction with water during the hydration phase....
As soon as you were done printing then you could come along with another nozzle to spray pulpcure on the surface. I think they would be an awesome pair!
paper burn - its better because it reduces plastic shrinkage, allows required water to be available during curing cycle and yes, improves overall strength.
burlap hold moisture also can be misted old school :) that why u have water crew amen, time use, shade nice , break out the umbrellas , ehehhee cost per method is offset .... qc with common sense , special lized aplications only dude ,
If you're doing a huge slab like a highway, it makes sense to apply the pulp. You can probably just use the water hose for a driveway slab.
For pillars on Necedah Tower ( See Facebook) , I used wet sand and kept it wet added plastic bags on top.For slabs i used soaker hose with tarp, if cold coming used foam board and tarp. I waited 8 hours before I placed it. i used 6 and 8 bag mix from the concrete co. mostly. i was doing this back before 2013 when many people did not know about wet curing. I also used fiber in all of the concrete. Love your channel!
Thank you, Mr. Tyler. Your videos are always amazing.
Best Teacher for concrete...... 👌👌
I've learned an incredible amount from your videos, been really helping with my concrete pottery :)
Tyler, thanks for sharing the gospel of concrete. I found you as I research building with IFC which uses loads of concrete. In general if you could do a video on concretes' application via IFC that'd be great. If that's too much perhaps more specifically you could address if you have done experiments on or read research on concrete curing inside of IFC walls?
All your videos are very interesting and useful
Thank you so much!!!
Love your enthusiasm for concrete. Hope you got a patent on this process....
REALLY ENJOY ALL YOUR info!!!!
Do you have videos of concrete pots curing and sealing?
Interesting. Looks expensive to apply. Years back when I did a few bridge decks for FDOT, we used synthetic hybrid reusable blankets with a continuos feed of water applied via gravity drains from water tanks and garden soaker hoses. Stayed wet and didn't require any special tools or expertise. The water rate was specific to the length of the blankets or bridge. I think this system is probably more uniform and consistent. I forgot the name of the blankets but they were plastic on one side and had a felt fabric interior that stayed wet.
William Pozo
I think it depends on the project location and size. I mean if you have a huge continuous concrete, it is nothing to bring a machine for pulpCure. Also in some places like California and Middle East, water resources are not always available and cheap. However can we use pulpCure with vertical members like columns because I see in the video it doesn’t stick to concrete surface.
If I can't find a specific concrete "pulp cure", would wet cellulose insulation work?
Love your videos. Can you make a video for water proofing concrete roofs.
what about the uneven coverage ?????
Looks like hydroseeding pulp,(paper type, not erosion control fiber type), try it with a few percent water absorbing copolymer gel. (the goopy snot, not the firm beads) Not only will it hold even more water but it will be more pumpable and will tend to absorb the dew at night. Its used to help seed sprouting when not in the wet season and unable to irrigate. Cheap enough for grass seed should be cheap enough for concrete.
Hi Tyler, You mention you need special equipment to apply the pulp, so for the average person doing a home slab i guess it can't be done? I was wondering though, if i had access to shredded paper from an office building, could i lay a thick cover over the concrete slab and then drench it with water and cover with plastic or is there more to it? Also, will any of the colour coming out of the pulp / shredded paper colour the concrete?
What a great question! Doesn't anyone know the answer?
I've not used it, but I would have if I'd known of it before the pour day. I set sprinklers on my slab and a timer. But...Sika UltraCure NCF is a plastic-coated cellulose fiber blanket for wet/moist curing. I found it listed for about $330 for 1,600 sq ft.
Another great vidy . . . . Cheers Tyler !
Can we make the pulp using a cement mixer, adding newspapers and carton? Would adding a plasticizer to the pulp help disperse the water into the pulp?
I really enjoy your information and presentation. Curing us vital of course. Track builders seldom have the time or interest in doing it right. An architect friend used old carpet , soaked it and then put plastic over that. South of Houston in an engineering community, owner builders would simply connect sprinklers to their home Wells and run the sprinklers for weeks.
What about poured roof slabs in the tropics? Roof degredation from many factors is a real problem.
Thanks Edward! Awesome stories. I love it.
Concrete roofs close to the ocean would really benefit from extended curing.
@@TylerLey ,
Thank you. It was an adventure to learn about concrete roofs in Puerto Rico after Maria! At first it seemed incredible that water stuck on the flat roofs could crack the concrete. But the evidence was finally overwhelming.
Your explanation exactly describes the damages we witnessed.
What about your basement slab or your first floor slab? And how long do you do this for once it's pored?
I have seen a few buggered slabs from poor curing.
Particularly hot windy days.
For most house slabs it’s never done.
I’m always recommending two layers of curing compound.
It’s cheap and has to be better than most.
Plastic over the TOP.
My concern with black plastic (standard Builders plastic) it gets too hot under the plastic.
Should that matter?
This pulp mix seems like a lot of effort would have to see clear results it’s worth it.
Some Builders just use the black plastic and seal around the edges with sand.
Seems to hold moist very well as all the house slabs in Oz have plastic membranes under the slab.
Once again great insight cheers Pulpo.
Thanks!
I think black plastic can raise the temperature a lot. I prefer transparent plastic. That way you can see how your slab is doing underneath. Pulpcure is primarily useful to replace wet curing. These are concretes that you really want to add additional water to for hydration. Not all concretes need the best curing possible and so plastic and curing compounds are great for these applications. In fact, wet curing can make slab curling worse!
Check this video out for more information: ua-cam.com/video/2U6OScAdVaI/v-deo.html
does it matter if the cover plastic is clear..should it be opaque or black?
Pulp Cure vs Ultra Cure Blankets and also does the Pulp Cure cause staining?
Is using straw comparable to pulp?
How long should concrete or mortar stay wet ? Love your videos .
Try to keep it wet for a week if it is weight bearing. if you keep it wet for a month you will substantially increase its durability and strength. Do not let it dry until you finish the curing process. Do not take forms off pillars and walls or they will dry out. Some people take them off the day after but it will cause the concrete to not cure as well. Some loosen forms and have moisture or soaker hose on wall to let it trickle down but don't let air get to it and dry it out. I used plastic or mailing tape on my forms and that made the surface smooth and seals the water in while it cures, for plastic on forms i would not loosen the forms, it is time consuming though. See Necedah Tower on Facebook.
Getting ready to break ground on a small project in MO and would love to get some input for mix design
Something I'm not sure about;
If you make a really low-water-content mix to get the strength, maybe 0.3, but then you keep it as wet as possible to cure? Even immerse? Sounds contradictory.
Or do I suppose the low water content is important during the first few hours, until the concrete has set, then the curing water will no longer rinse out the cement??
I don't think I've heard you address this issue in any video?
I want to know this too
Wow edible/non-toxic reusable curing mixture; sustainability at its best.
Thank you Mawuli!!
Time to save up my newspapers.
Why not use plastic as wet burlap?
So what should we use if not using PulpCure?
how long until its cured? is it longer than usual ?
What is the specialized equipment for application? By the way you have the best concrete design and specifications of all UA-cam
Can you give us some more details on how to make this stuff?
Newspaper water 50/50 mix done
Wow. You need to know about internal membrane technology
Spray it on as soon as you’re done with finishing. Each molecule holds 300 molecules of water -- not only on the surface ( which can cause mottled surface curing )
It is equivalent to pond curing but allows immediate use ( without the danger of surface membrane cures )
Where can I buy PulpCure?
You’re my hero
I am confused. In another video, you state adding water onto concrete will result in a higher w/c ratio to surface concrete. And I recognize the idea of curing is to maintain water content within the concrete as long as possible in order to grow cementatious structures. However, how/why does the water within the pulp NOT migrate into the surface concrete and raise the w/c ratio? It seems like the best ‘cure’ would be a tight layer of plastic inhibiting any/as much as possible, water evaporation from the concrete. Is a wet cure simply the best tool we have available, albeit not the best theoretical tool? What about a sprayable wet binding epoxy?
I believe you don't apply the pulp fibers until the green stage of the concrete when it shouldn't cause any effect in the w/c ratio.
Hay! Regarding your last word hay: How does the blob goo compare to the 1920's method of hay?
Ben - I havn't really studied hay. I would think Pulpcure would be easier to place and remove. However, I think chopped up hay would do a good job.
I would think it could become super moldy. Would the mold hurt the concrete, maybe grow into it? Anyway, if it gets moldy I would think you wouldn’t want to reuse it.
We don't see any mold. We use it all the time.
Curing concrete is far too alkaline, to permit the growth of mold.
The pH range for yeast growth is 3.5 to 4.5 and for molds is 3.5 to 8.0..... Concrete has a pH ~12.0 - pH 13.3. Alkalinity forms as a result of Portland cements reaction with water during the hydration phase....
New information!!!
How does one apply this to 3d printed concrete?
As soon as you were done printing then you could come along with another nozzle to spray pulpcure on the surface. I think they would be an awesome pair!
It would be convenient if a delivery method similar to hydro-seeding was used. A trained laborer/mason with a gun could apply it from a slurry truck.
Intriguing ❤️
Thank you!!
wet curing is good but why? better strength?
paper burn - its better because it reduces plastic shrinkage, allows required water to be available during curing cycle and yes, improves overall strength.
Much talk about slab surfaces nothing about vertical surfaces. Still very interesting.
i agree how do you use something for vertical
something else to think about.
what the helll is pulpcure? I never see it in my life. can you show a picture?
In India, they just build small dams, like in a rice field, and fill the dams with water.
Hempcrete
burlap hold moisture also can be misted old school :) that why u have water crew amen, time use, shade nice , break out the umbrellas , ehehhee cost per method is offset .... qc with common sense , special lized aplications only dude ,
Intriguing ❤️