Secrets to Better 3D Printed Domes | Design for Mass Production 3D Printing
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
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In this episode of Design for Mass Production 3D Printing, we cover advanced design strategies for perfect 3D printed domes.
Learn how to overcome the challenges of interior overhangs to enhance manufacturability and achieve cleaner, more reliable prints. We will guide you through modifying dome shapes, optimizing internal supports, and utilize techniques only possible with 3D printing. If you're looking to improve the design of you 3D printed parts, this video will equip you with the knowledge to design products more effectively.
Subscribe for more insights on designing 3D printed products and leave your questions or topics for future videos in the comments below!
00:00 Challenges of Printing Dome Interiors
00:36 Quick and Dirty Fix
01:04 Optimizing Dome Shapes
01:42 Designing Your Own Supports
02:54 Design for Autogenerated Supports
03:51 But Wait There's More
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I really wish more people considered these things when they made stuff to put on printables etc..
Yes it's important to think about how it will print when modeling. Most of the things I've downloaded have been quite well designed though.
@@Iisakkiik wish I could say the same, I end up either having to remake the thing from scratch, or just making my own cause so little is sufficient..
This is a prime example for fullcontroll
I love those "secrets to" videos, very inspiring!
With the last part, bridging can also work very well. Depending on the printer, it can be nearly identical to a supported top.
Slant has the best ideas I've seen so far. thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for watching!
What software is being used in this video for modeling?
When I needed to print a dome like that, I personally solved that problem by making a flay spot in the top and printing it upside down. Good option for when you don't need it to be a perfect dome and it still looks nice.
Excellent advice with making a completely flat interior to basically help generated supports do their job. I have done angles in domes and hand made supports (and printed upside down, easier to sand the outside!) but never tried that, very clever
concise yet thorough. A rarity on YT anymore. sidesteps the multi-material argument effectively
Play around in the slicer to have inner most wall or bottom layer printed first following the circle. Circular paths don’t need much support for overhangs and produces nice domes. It can be tricky to make the slicer do this only for the specific area.
I like these solutions for 'features' rather than parts, as they can be applied in combination on a range of parts as needed.
I also like the emphasis of designed supports vs. auto-generated support. This seems small, but is not necessarily obvious. I've designed brims, adhesion tabs, anchors, bridges, etc, and these require much less material AND are can be more reliable and easily removable than the generated stuff. This doesn't matter as much for a one-off part, but if you're printing a large quantity, is well worth the effort.
Yes. A generic solution often doesn't work in production.
These types of videos are my absolute favorite.
Thank you
Love the videos you guys put out! Its been helping me design stuff for my printer at home!
the best way for domes is to print them upside down with a small brim - i know i know bla bla brim bad but if you get send a dome and you cant change the design - print it as a bowl
You can cutout some 1 layer thick squares at the inside so you can have clean bridging
reducing the layer height at the higher layers will also reduce the overhang that will be printed in each layer.
great video as usual
Thanks again!
thanks
Nice! What if you're trying to print a full sphere (for a ball joint for example), where you are getting that bad dragging print on the bottom surface? Would love to hear your best solution for this problem 🤔
Love what you guys do 🤘
great video :)
Really good advice.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks.
You're welcome
Another option is to design it with the flat section similar to your auto generated support option, but don't use supports. Bridging can work surprisingly well with the right design and with the right printer.
Thanks
No problem
Useful. Subbed
Thanks for the sub!
Can you make a video on passive cooling in 3d prints? I'm working on a FPV rover with a lot of electronic components in outdoor conditions and wondering about ways I can cool the thing down using techniques in the design.
Use Tree Supports, and paint the support area you wish to have supported inside and it will autogenerate that mushroom shape for you.
Hey! Just curious, do you print your custom supports at the same speed as everything else? Or do you have a way to tell the slicer they're just supports and print them differently, like faster? Idea here is to save some time on printing support material. It may not be a huge deal for one-off prints, but maybe it can add up when mass producing, no?
Hi, What is the chance you can make a video of how to properly print a 8inch Moon?,iv done 4 already and the top always comes out not looking the best,Thanks
Variable layer hieght FTW, i was shocked to have perfect prints with limits set down to 0.04mm layer height. This was on a dome about 50mm wide, im sure it wouldn't work well if larger
Yeah, variable layer height works wonderfully for round-shaped objects.
Love seeing Shapr3D content as well
I think this is currently a limitation in today's slicing software and less so with the FDM process itself. Fullcontrolxyz shows some crazy overhangs and I think could easily create a clean dome as intended (there are these frequent challenges, sometimes including 90 degree overhangs), however that's likely somebody sitting down and manually writing clever gcode and not something most slicers are able to do... yet. This may be a job for AI, integrating with Cura, Prusa, Orca ect and figuring out how to print domes and upside down screw holes without supports or clever modeling tricks.
I'm thinking of building an 3D printer myself. I'm planing to print a lot from it. Corexy and Cartisan, which one is better in this case?
Last example of where you cut the lower part of the dome can be done without supports. Just dial correctly the cooling and speed of the bridge and it will contract the plastic and support itself. IT would looks the same or even better than the supported one
You can try bridging from 20mm/s to 60 or even 80mm/s
And when the dome is bigger?
I'm curious if there's a reason you didn't mention bridging when you've flattened out the interior geometry? On a well dialed in machine and correctly sliced file you probably don't need any supports that way.
But what happens when the dome gets bigger
@@slant3d thank you very much
"Bridging."
"What if the Dome is Bigger?"
"Successive Bridging."
What are you thoughts on variable layer heights? Thicker layers for vertical walls, then shorter layers for those top of the dome to make it ls stair steppy. Curious of a pro's opinion.
Adds print time. And in this situation does not add much value over other more robust solutions
Neon green filament is great at hiding layer lines 😂.
In my experience, 0.5mm top gap between the support and model, is excessive. 0.2mm on a 0.16mm layer height is ideal, breaks right off super easy but leaves a near perfect layer. If you’re using thicker layers like 0.2, I’d just use 0.25-0.27mm top gap for the support interface.
I would think most printers can just bridge that flat top to the inner dome without support. I know my printer can bridge 2 or 3 inches really well. You only get into trouble when a section is hanging in the open with nothing to hold the other side.
Hybrid of mushroom top with autogenerated supports?
Surely if you have a flat inner surface, it would be bridging (like in the section with the supports), rather than using generated supports, you could just print as is and given there's enough cooling to support the bridging, it should print without issue
And if the part is bigger?
@@slant3d A lot of printers (that I've seen/used) with decent cooling can do ~5cm of bridging with correct settings, and proper cooling fairly easily. You could do a stair step (similar to what the Voron team use for through holes) up to a height where the bridging section is around the same distance. This would take more time with the modelling and experience with the printer to get right, and a printer with adequate cooling to achieve, but if you're batching out parts, could be a big filament and time saver in the long run. Obviously, this would only work to a certain extent, but from my (admittedly relatively small amount of) personal experience, with mine, and my friend's printers, should be feasible up to around helmet sized prints
Being curious: what is the software being used to design the parts?
Looks like blender
Shapr
I want... a 3d printer.
"make overhangs printable" in cura
That's a funny way to say orca 🤔
Since 3d printers are really slow,... doesn't that make them 4d printers...?
Now, make a sphere.
Hands up who came here building a dalek 😁
Do not prop it up with a screwdriver