Part 2/6 Husqvarna 272XP Chainsaw $50 dollar find dissasembly
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2013
- Got this Husqvarna 272XP Chainsaw. The piston and cylinder need to be replaced so here is a video on taking it apart.
Part 1: The buy ----- • Part 1/6 Husqvarna 272...
Part 2: Dissasembly ----- • Part 2/6 Husqvarna 272...
Part 3: More Dissasembly ----- • Part 3/6 Husqvarna 272...
Part 4: Reassembly ----- • Part 4/6 Husqvarna 272...
Part 5: First Start ----- • Part 5/6 Husqvarna 272...
Part 6: Running and Carburetor adjustments ----- • Part 6/6 Husqvarna 272... - Авто та транспорт
Great video!
A suggestion for next time: when you pull the cylinder off, the very first thing to do is stick a clean rag around the con rod in the crankcase opening. That keeps dirt from mucking up that area that's hard to clean and keeps hardware, etc. from dropping in.
Although cylinder kits are now much cheaper, a simpler fix would be to re-machine the ring groove, and fit a new ring. (1-2 thou. slackness.). The ring does all the compression sealing, and that one was stuck in the groove, causing your loss of compression. The scoring on the piston is just cosmetic, and causes very little loss of performance. I used to race motorcycles with worse pistons than that..!
@4:04....Or you can remove the carb,intake, cylinder, and exhaust as one piece. I mean leave it all bolted together, then remove carb thru bolts after lifting jug off of piston.
That jug was fine... Just had aluminum transfer that could have lightly sanded out... Then tossed in a new piston and rings. Did you do the vacume test to check the seals ?(bottom end ?)
most of the time u can salvage the jug by using acid or some other ways to get the aluminum transfer off
REMOVING THE MUFFLER;
After removing the two or three screw holding the muffler to the front housing use an allen wrench, lengthwise (mine barely fit and had to be turned with a clamping wrench), to remove a screw from each of the two tops holes on front of the muffler.
Beginning at 4:35
ua-cam.com/video/ubTZ4Ul5b8M/v-deo.htmlm35s
Do you still own the saw? Would it be wise to buy a used one of these in 2018?
Pretty clean saw to have a bad cylinder. May be an ethanol victim.
wow your dealer is marking that c/p kit up a lot there in the realm of what your paying for the one on ebay maybe like 1.75 to 2 bills
I can tell you exactly what burns these saws up! All you have to do is take a look at a chainsaw made in the late sixties or early seventies, They all had a stinger exaust pipe that allowed the super heated air and spent fuel to escape away from the saw. Now the EPA makes the manufacturer put catalysts and Baffles to make its way out of the exaust port and that crap catches the heat and transfers it back into the cylinder! And it doesn't help matters when guys mix too much oil in the fuel and it blows it into the exaust pipe! If you remove the muffler and drill two small holes right between the bolts that hold it to the cylinder,You reduce about 70% of your heat issues and gain alot of power! Flow in, Flow out! These 2-stroke engines piston moves way too fast to be plugging up the holes with that nonsense! I own a chainsaw collection of around 70 saws and I drill all most all of the exaust pipes out and I keep one without the holes incase i plan on cutting on federal government land where it is mandatory to do so.
Make a video
Post a picture or sum
Hate to tell you be your your crank seals are done for. Crank case has a vacuum leak.
I don't know man, she runs like a top.. I've had saws with bad seals and I can definitely say I don't see any signs of leaky seals in this machine. I'll take it out this week and make a few good cuts on film for you, hopefully the seals are fine. Thanks for the comment!
@@machinesnmetal 140 psi good compresion 372 xp oe ?
140 psi good compresion 372 xp oe ?
maybe just barely, getting close to too low
Please can I have prize for this 272 chainsaw
That piston is backwards!