Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
How to ensure a square CANT
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 лют 2022
- If you have trouble "consistently" producing square cants or beams take a look at this video. It took me a while to figure out what I was doing wrong. Some cants were square others were not.....but why?
Great video! Informative and entertaining. My brother and I have a Wood-Mizer LT15 sawmill and we love it. Having the sawmill along with starting a UA-cam channel has made it a blast so far. Keep up the great work.
I'm new to sawing and I appreciate anyone who takes time to educate us green horns. Thank you!!!
Calling the obvious in addition to this tip that I also found out early on,
Dirty heavy debris such as bark, chunks and saw dust on bunks can contribute to this "progressive error".
Also, you can get buildup on the track wheels if a whisker is not cleaning the groove out and most times thats on the discharge side.
When you are milling hot and heavy/cranking it out, making it happen, sometimes any of these can slip up on you and a combination of several can put production to a grinding halt.
Again calling the obvious, learning your mill and knowing your mill and applying all techniques learned will help make your sawing experience a better and more pleasant accomplishment.
Great Tip. I just assembled my HM130Max. I'm sure you just saved my some frustration.
Thanks! It’s always great to learn the little details that others pick up from experience.
Just purchased same mill. Very useful information. Thank you! Wish you were making more videos!
Speed square on a log bunk against the face of the cant will give a quick check for square. Nice video.
Agreed...just added one to my mill area today. Thanks
Just finished watching all your vids. I'm also a retired content creator as well. Mine are music vids. Because of that, I'm always watching youtube content trying to "learn new tricks". Just like music, no matter how much you know, there is always something new to learn. Something tells me you have been editing longer than just since Feb. Your vids are quite well done. And you have a gift in your narration style. Easy going non scripted. Gotta' love that. But your ability to "tell the story" via the narration and your use of camera angles that adds to the flow of the vid is just spot on. As a result, your videos seem shorter than they actually are. I hope you keep 'em coming. I'll be watching my friend!
Thank you for the kind words. I just popped over to your channel and will for sure check out your content. I love Gospel music.
In 2019 my wife and I took a 10,000 mile around the US RV trip and I documented it through a series of UA-cam videos. I learned the basics of videography and editing then and to this day very much enjoy that. I still have a lot to learn and always welcome feedback.
Mike
@@activeoutdoorssawmillediti7736 Something told me you had done it before. What channel is that? And yes, we always keep learning. I'm 77 and If I'd had "youtube university" when I was growing up, I'd have never come up for air lol! But use it daily to "ask it something". UA-cam and Google. That was still science fiction when I was growing up. And now you don't even have to type. Just ask. And it will talk back to you!
@@activeoutdoorssawmillediti7736 Oh and one more think, I have both single vids and longer shows on that channel and if you want to see just the single vids, go to my playlists and choose "my top videos" and they will all be in that play list without the longer shows.
@@BirdYoumans Here is a link to that channel.
ua-cam.com/channels/_qODx0fV8Manb-klOHVWdg.html
Great tips ! I learn that working with my brothers mill, I bought a HM122, I just finished putting it together so I'm thinking tomorrow will be the first cuts :) Great videos keep them coming :)
You should always clamp a little lower than the highest contact point of the log stop. It creates a seesaw effect when the clamp is higher than the top of the log stop thus the lifted edge.
Nice video,I really like your setup. Very good point on clamping, and I for one, have made this mistake before. You got a new subscriber .
You have a good sense of what is going on as you mill. And an eye for detail. Imo that makes for good milling. Glad I found your channel. :D
Thanks JosEPH!
I always put a try square on the log bunk and against the cut timber face to check for square. Especially when cutting the third and fourth face.
nice setup , and also you kno what you are doing .. thanks for video !! keep up the good work...
Howdy- It’s really frustrating working with out of square timbers when building with logs. I noticed right off the clamp can push the timber up a little bit and the cut is out of square. I also set the log stops square off the bunks. Great videos. Looking forward to seeing you more. Take care and God’s blessings to you
Thanks for the kind words. I have admired your work for some time, having seen many of your videos. I have often thought to myself, man....I would like to know half of what that man has forgotten about log and timber building. Blessings to you also.
@@activeoutdoorssawmillediti7736 Thank you so much for watching our videos. Blessings
Good video. good information for anyone milling logs.
Thank you Chas
Thanks, very interesting video like at least one other I saw in your collection. But I want to add a small detail. However perfect the geometry of your freshly cut lumber, it will somewhat warp and bend and distort as it dries, if it was sawn out of green wood. The consequences may be negligible for rough carpentry work, but disastrous whenever you need good geometry and dimensional stability, fine woodcraftmanship work like cabinet making, furniture, finition wood work and carpentry, doors and windows framing, etc.... So, to get perfect square lumber that will remain about perfect over time, you need to first cur your freshly cut logs in halves or in quarters, that is resawing them length through their central axis or very close and parallel to it. Meaning that with a Woodland's mills, you could do no more than a 15 inch diameter log, since the max depth of cut is on'sly about 7 inch. That is the main limit when using those small cheap portable bandsawmills, that they are not suited well to resaw large logs of hardwood for fine woodworking. By comparison, a US made Timberking has a 16 inch deep saw throat, meaning that it can handle a 33 inch diameter log, but the Timberkings are clearly more expensive than Woodlands. Another choice is Canadian-made Select sawmill with a 15-inch depth capability, but those are serious industrial bandsawmills selling for about 100 000 $. Cheapest alternative would be the two top models of the China made Red Runner line sold in America by Vallée sawmills, starting at 7000$ Can = 5550$US, which boast an impressive 15 inch deep sawthroat.
Yosef....thank you for taking the time to educate me. There is much to learn about being a sawyer.
Mike
Hobby hardwoods of Alabama might disagree with you you just have to adapt your sawing methods to accommodate your machine
Great Video!!! Cheers
Thank you for the info
Not much need to set that clamp into the cant at all, as the weight of the cant will be sufficient to hold it steady on the bed for the parallel cut. That is if the blade is sharp and not having to force the blade through the wood.
But good observation with the clamping error.
Also should mention that the log stops don't remain square to the bed over time of use.
Thanks deernut00....I will put the log stops on my checklist to be periodically inspected for square
those log dogs are made a bit loose, they have to be or you could not raise or lower them, even though the entire system is good, it is not fool proof, it takes some back yard mechanics to tweak out the system to get nasa grade product, Well Presented, with much needed info.
Thank you Ben
This was very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it helped Nate. Thanks for watching.
Hi Nate
@@Jared-Brubaker Jared! What's up, man?!?!
@@natebissell looks like we watch some of the same videos!
Any large cant sitting on a cut face will not need to be clamped or need the log stops in a raised position.If you leave the cut lumber sitting on the cant as you work your way down, with a sharp blade, the cant will be heave enough that the clamp is not needed.
Thanks for the tip Rex. I have been reluctant to do that because my bunks are stainless steel and the cants slide pretty easily. I will give it a try though.
Mike
Oh the hours I have spent on this issue.
I may be wrong but I don't even clamp when I have a heavy cant with a flat side down. I have a cooks mp 32 and I only clamp when the round is on the bunk. Works for me
My bunks are topped with polished stainless steel. I’ve had even heavy cants slide around. I could take the stainless off and see what happens.
@@activeoutdoorssawmillediti7736 I have a cooks sawmill. It has tabs welded on the squaring arm side. Without a clamp the blade pulls it against the tabs. Your mill may be different
good stuff, thanks
Thank you Mr. P....glad it was helpful
Mike
The cant will rest against the welded nubs that should be just under the lowest blade setting, most mills have them.If yours are missing you can add them. So for the cant to move, the blade must lift the cant to move it. Eliminate the risk of sawing into your clamp and stops. Maybe you could re make the log clamp to pull down when tight. Why is that bunk not capped with stainless steel?
Rex...it probably happened when I assembled the unit but for some reason that particular bunk was higher by the thickness of the stainless cap. So for now I just took it off until I can check into it further.
Mike
Very interesting, I have the same model and my middle bunk with the stainless steel was throwing off my cant as well. I thought I was losing it for a while it was so frustrating. I ended up taking off the stainless steel cover over the bunk and finally started getting good cuts.
Probably time to send a note to woodland mills?
@@earlholmes9740 Interesting....and I thought it was just my unit.
Mike
I'm going to woodland tomorrow, Friday April 5. I'll ask about the middle bunk. Do you have the portable trailer mill also?
Is it better to store logs or cants?
I had the same question and found the answer here....forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=116115.msg1838034#msg1838034
Store the logs on top of wood after removing the bark.
Are you grinding your own blades?
No...I just sent some out to a local sharpening service. I haven't gotten them back yet so not sure of the quality of their work.
@@activeoutdoorssawmillediti7736 Ask if you can watch and/or film them grinding your blades, Post the video and let us tear it apart good or bad. The first sharpning will adjust all the teeth to the machine and make up for factory blade spacing being off a bit You should watch a few online videos on blade grinding so you can make good conversation with the guy grinding your blades.You don't want to pay for them to wreck your blade..
@@rexhavoc2982 Great idea!
That aerial shot was cool. How did you do that?
I put my drone up in the air and let it hover.
@@activeoutdoorssawmillediti7736 seriously? It was that stable? If you are willing to share, which model did you buy?
@@natebissell Nate it's a 4 year old DJI Spark. No longer made. I'm sure the technology now is greatly improved and will produce even better results.