Extraction, leaky basin and BUILDING REGULATIONS - new toilet (part 7)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- Today we’re looking at the ventilation requirements for our downstairs toilet and utility room (part 7). We’ll take a look at the building regulations side of things along with running in the duct work etc. We’ve also got a leaky basin waste to fix!
Like the vids? Join the Member Zone to help support the channel:
members.gosforthhandyman.com/
Join the Gosforth Handyman mailing list:
rebrand.ly/ghm-newsletter
Not bothered about extra stuff? Support the channel via Patreon:
/ gosforthhandyman
Official merch including Gosforth Handyman tape measure:
gosforthhandyman.com/shop/
TOOLS & PRODUCTS I USE: gosforthhandyman.com/products...
INSTA: / gosforthhandyman
TWITTER: / gosforthandy
CORRECTIONS: gosforthhandyman.com/correcti...
All content on this channel is exclusively owned by MacLellan Creative Limited. Copyright (c) 2023. All rights reserved.
Downstairs Toilet Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction
02:00 - Fixing a leaky basin waste
10:40 - Ventilation
15:15 - Building regulations
26:00 - Fitting the ducting
32:00 - Testing it all works
#BuildingRegulations #Construction #Ventilation - Навчання та стиль
hands up who has taken off a trap and to remove the water from it tipped it into the sink you just removed it from? am I the only one, please say im not :) top work as always Andy
Cheers Andy! Came close many times! 😂👍
Been there 😂
I planned around that... Put the plug in as I was washing out the trap.... Then I removed the plug....
Done it on just the one occasion sir !
I did it once lol 😂😂😂
I always use a Basin Mate for the bottom seal , for £1.60 from toolstation, never leaks waste of time trying anything else, try filling the basin so the water goes down the overflow it still might leak , I also set my isolator valves with the taps fully open so the water does not flow more than the overflow can cope with
The seal between the inside of the basin and the waste will manifest itself as the water level going down when the plug is in. The main area to use plumbers mait or even silicone is on the underside between the nut/gasket and the basin. Roll a sausage and push into the gap and it'll prevent any leaks from any source (including the overflow).
Yup, but PTFE is neater. 👍
If you add plumbers putty around the plug in the basin, add a smaller ring of putty underneath with a nylon washer before the black nut. The Nylon washer is the game changer. Don't use the washer they supply. Plumbers merchants sell the nylon washers in packs of 6. You'll never have a leak again. (I'm a Plumber of 30 yrs).
The most important bit to seal is the bottom washer of a basin. I use a “THOMAS DUDLEY LTD BASIN WASTE SEAL KIT 3 PIECE SET (8795R)” from screwfix. It’s a conical rubber washer that fills the gap around the waste fitting and tightens into the thread as well. A lot less fiddly than PTFE and only 2-3 quid. Hope this helps for the future. PS great content.
Crazy they don't supply a washer that actually works! 😂👍
I can assure you that fan could not achieve the 30l/s extraction rate required for the utility rm. By the time it’s ducted round all those 90 degree bend you’ll be lucky to achieve the 6l/s for the toilet.
Coming along well, Andy. Liked your solution for the leak, and you've solved one of my problems. 👍🏼
Excellent tips for applying the putty and fixing the leak 👍
Always a handy product to have in the shed! 😁
That is the beauty of the ventilation box we put in false ceiling in France, to extract kitchen + bathroom + toilets etc…. They have different diameters to accommodate different flow rate. And they are continuous with boost mode for some of them! It exists here in the Uk but it remains a niche product, bloody expansive!
It's coming along very well.
Cheers Tahir - can't wait to show it all finished! 😁
Andy. Great practical video showing how to deal with real life renno challenges. Love the channel. Love the production quality. Many thanks. C
Cheers! 👍👍
Surely, as it's a slotted waste (for the overflow), then water going down the inside of the plughole can get outside of the waste via the slot. Therefore, isn't it just the bottom thread that needed properly sealing with ptfe/plumbers mate? I always load it on down there and don't ever seal the top.
Your correct that the leak is from the bottom seal, however, if the top isn't sealed the basin or sink won't hold water. 😉
@@Brown969 you are right! And you have probably just explained to me why my utility room sink doesn't hold water... why didn't I think of that!
What Nathan said. 👍😁
I've never enjoyed videos about a bog so much.
I use insulation tape on the fan outlet to make a nice tight fit with the 100mm pipe. Also I use a backdraught shutter that’s a thin membrane on the external grille. Our kitchen extractor was making a din of noise in windy weather and that’s stopped.
👍👍
theres no need for any gasket in the basin as water gets in anyway through the slots for the overflow, plumbers mait on the threads under the backnut or CT1 always works for me,👍
Don't quite follow... 🤔. Without a seal on the top side water would slowly leak down the drain?
If you don't have a gasket/seal, then the basin will lose water when the plug is in.
Nice one Andy looking forward to the fire regs video collars intumescent sealant etc 🙌🏻🙌🏻
No worries! 👍
Thanks for sharing.
No worries!
Looking good
Cheers Jean!
Brilliant video Andy i'm glad you sorted out the leaky basin ,plumber's mate I have use it ,It is good sets in no time Sorry I had to skip the building regulations as it was for England only and it dose not apply to me living in Wrexham The ducting and the flex supplied cable ties that don't fit ! That's good for business, the fan is so quiet when running You done a brilliant job like all your video's Thanks Andy take care mate
Cheers bud! 👍😁
The first sink I ever installed, on probably my third handyman client (back when I didn't have a clue what I was doing), I had this exact problem. Nothing I could do with the gasket could make the thing watertight, so I ended up fixing it in the exact same way. I was worried it was a bodge that would horrify a proper plumber, good to know it's actually a proper fix.
The design of the waste is the bodge bit... so nothing you've done wrong really! 👍😁
As a plumber I have done many basin wastes. Always use Plumbers Mait on the top side and then some acid free silicone Plumbers gold on the underside. Also can buy a semi hard 11/4" washer to go on the underside which one can use to push the silicone in before tightening up the back nut. As for washers supplied with wastes, the best thing for them is to through them in the bin
Cheers Nick! Crazy that manufacturers still can't just make this work 'out of the box'. 😂👍
@@GosforthHandyman Such a gap in the market for "products that actually work".
26:31 - Just crazy! Andy, you should call out whoever supplies the duct and cable ties. Those are the kind of small frustrations that build up when you're doing a job and end up making a tradesman scream and swear at the end of the day.
Anyway, great video Andy!
Yup! Couldn't believe it, especially since I'd just fitted them all in place ready to clip on. D'oh!
Only commenting as I watch it, I’m a plumber and it doesn’t matter if the little fabric seal leaks on the waste ,it will only go down near where the overflow. would only matter if you wanted to put the plug in it would slowly leak away. It’s at the bottom where you need to place some silicon just on the threads. I know what you’re saying about the manufacturers instructions.
Looking good Andy, planning regs are a minefield !
I had the same problem when I fitted an old Belfast sink out on our patio, didn't know about PM at the time so just used caulk, but it's still working 20+ years later, no YT then !
Hoping that fan exit port isn't located next to your outside seating area ! 😉🤭
Cheers Andy! 20 years - good work! 👍
I did chuckle at your cable tie pain 😂
Just bought an action cam (gopro kind of thing) with all its clamps and asda of all places had a nifty adjustable band holder, like a 30cl loop that holds position, can loop round your neck and adjust from there, might be ideal for filming these kind of jobs
I have recently used Velcro ‘zip ties’ to hold some signs outdoors, they grip really well and seem to last. Easily reposition able or removed and reused. Got mine from Aldi but Screwfix do the same ones, even more currently relevant is that you can also get multicolour ‘rainbow’ ones.
I too have always used Plumbers Mait with great results. I converted to plastic pipes years ago, absolutely no downside I haveEVER found. I do use lots of support clips though to prevent sagging ( pipes that is, not me!).
👍👍
I might not sleep tonight after seeing that offset overflow 💀. As another viewer said, you needed the plumbers mate on the underside as the overflow negates adding it to the top.
You need it on the top side too (see comments below). 👍
Great stuff as usual , and baked beans are now back on the menu .😂. I must admit I put insulation in the stud work purely for sound deadening reasons i f you get my drift . Best wishes and kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
No worries! 😁👍👍
Informative as usual Andy. Nice to see other people have problems which should not be problems…… Ahhh 😱. On rubbish plumbing fittings, where I can I now buy exclusively McAlpine. They just work!
Yup! 2023 and manufacturers still can't get this stuff right. 😭👍
Agree 100% on McAlpine. Sometimes it's twice the price, but worth it. I guess they just work to tighter tolerances in manufacture.
Screw#☆x used to sell mcalpine fittings
@@joehickman4823 still do
You need extraction where there is a sink because of the potential for hot flowing water that will ultimately cause water vapour.
Leaks around the top just pass into the overflow chamber. It's the seal at the bottom that leaks out of the waste. How they expect those gaskets to seal the thread I'll never know.
I buy a basin mate for all my basin wastes, never leak
👍
Highly recommend a Thomas Dudley Ltd Basin Waste Seal Kit, less messy than Plumbers Mate. You should have used some mate underneath as well if you are going down that road.
Thomas Dudley every time 👍
I always find the underside washer seals fine, as long as the thread is sealed with PTFE. Still crazy that all this stuff isn't included with the waste as standard! 🤪
Another vote for the basin seal kit and a giant socket to fit the plastic nut to tighten everything up without mauling the nut with pipe pliers.
An old plumber told me to also put plumbers mate on the thread on the underside of the basin, it turned out to be a very good tip.
Yeah I always put it on the bottom aswell as this could still leak from the overflow. He's only rectified the sink water.
The PTFE seals any leaks from the overflow.
Wow, if the fan is so quiet how will you know if it’s on? I didnt see a pilot light. I’ve got fans in kitchen and bathrooms and they are often left on until I get home!
@@GosforthHandyman if it's worked and you tested the overflow then happy days but some I've fitted are sloppy fittings so PTFE would need to be overdone to compensate. Easier to use a ring of plumbers mate and fasten it up. Squashes in the gap and all round the thread.
Funilly I had a basin installed along with a toilet in a small room. No vent as there is a window, which is almost always closed. The tiny bit of water vapour coming off the hot tap was enought to cause condensate in the coldest corner of the room and over time caused black mould. Nothing major but it's there.
Ha ha got to love diy how to tutorials done twice 😂😂
Done twice? 🤔
I never could understand why, for every workman digging a hole there'd be a load of geezers standing around watching him. Now, after seeing all that blurb about putting a little hole in the wall I think i understand. There'll be one man digging, one to watch his health and safety, one to supervise road building regulations are adhered to, one for tools and machine maintenance etc etc. I suppose most jobs are actually priced accordingly. . .
You're not wrong Keith! 😂😭
Sorry to say, it looks like you've got the two white washers transposed. You need a good seal between the inside of the basin and the waste, the underside of the basin doesn't have such a sealable surface.I've fitted a few of these and you need to get the correct washers in the correct place, it's not always clear from the crappy diagrams they supply..
The top seal is only required to keep water in the sink and won't stop leaking from below as the overflow hole lets water bypass the inner waist and track down the threads very few seals and gaskets on the bottom resolve this issue too . Plumber's mate or putty I find is messy and a better solution is to smear silicone in and around the threads before the backing nut is run up. This also does not prevent disassembly at a later date like putty etc.
Sinks imply washing which is then left to dry in the same room...This is the cause of the water vapour via evaporation.
If you don't want to use silicone, I always do, get a basin mate. Only a couple of quid and it will never leak and you can remove it if you ever want to.
This is the way 👍
Why they don't supply a better bottom washer that actually seals the thread is beyond me. Although you do sometimes still need plumbers mait / silicone on the top side depending on the shape of the sink. 👍
Great work as always, Andy, and I do like ease of access. My bath taps are against an inside wall and there is now and inspection hatch behind a chest of drawers. What’s the difference between a bison and a buffalo? You can’t wash your hands in a buffalo 😂. Keep up the good work 🌞
😂😂😭 Cheers Ray! 😎👍
Does the garage ducting, especially the flexible sections, need to be fire rated ?
They could really do with making the close-coupled foam donuts in a smaller size for bath and basin roses.
Yup, or just similar design to normal kitchen sink wastes. Almost impossible for those to leak! 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Or sit on the bog and get a free facelift ! 🤣🤣🤣
Great work Andy , very pleasing to the eye is the fan job. Fan grills, well they are all pretty much rubbish, even the commercial ones we use. I expect you have this covered, but you cant suck air from a sealed room , ie door closed, it needs to pull air through. As for crap manufacturers providing sub standard goods, all they do is source stuff from china that looks right and make a kit out it, slap dash at best. Expect again that you know this, you can get flat ducting with round adapters. Thanks Andy.
My mates rented a house with a bathroom that was almost completely sealed. If the exhaust fan was turned on, it would suck air out of the waste pipes. The door was a tight fit, and the window was a circular stained glass mural type thing. They just left the door open all the time.
Cheers Paul! Yeah, plenty gaps under doors in this room so no issues with it being a sealed space. Unlike the studio. 😁👍
Hi Andy, the job is looking great, but can you tell me if the switch that is used to turn the fans on, switches the lights on as well? Also what is a in line extractor and are there other types of extractors. Thanks.
Cheers! No, that switch is just for the fan. Was ages ago so afraid don't have the model to hand!
"A utility room... containing a sink that MAY be expected produce water vapour in significant quantities." (trimmed) You could argue quite easily that it is not expected to produce water vapour in significant quantities. Its not stating that a room with a sink is a utility room.
Indeed. I would not expect a normal size sink in a house to produce problematic quantities of vapour, nor modern appliances like washing machines or tumble dryers. But if the local inspectors imply they expect to see ventilation provided, it's easier not to argue. You never know, you might be thankful for it after a potent vindaloo. Anyway, it is required for the toilet, so adding it to the utility room isn't a great hardship.
Nice one Andy I have read most of the other comments to minimise the risk of duplication. Great advice on accessing the U.K. Building regulations (of course only useful if the property is in the U.K.). I like how you reflected on the definition of a utility room but then went onto mentioning the need for fire sealant on garage penetrations. Did you consider the definition of a garage and if indeed you have one?😉 (Just teasing 😀).
Cheers Norman! The garage definition is a very valid point! Especially as most people just use garages for storage not to mention electric cars etc. 👍😁
@@GosforthHandyman Realistically - I suppose it will (might) be registered by the LA/Planning/Building Control as a ‘garage’ so application for ‘change of use’ to ‘workshop/ store’ would then obviate the need for the compliance with the attendant garage requirements.
However it is for consideration that a workshop/store could present an equal fire risk issue (to a garage) - depending on how much flammable stores you accumulate in there.😀
Oh defo, more meant in general, not specifically for me. I don't know anyone who keeps a car in their garage these days. Most seem to be used for storage / gym / unused cinema room etc. 😁
29:32 could the fan have been mounted to the ceiling? The flaps would still be the correct orientation, but I don't know if there's another reason that the shelf is the best option?
I’m no pro just a DIYer with some experience and I’ve never had a conventional basin waste seal. I use either putty or there’s a plumbers ‘ Gold’ sealant not silicon another pro UA-cam channel advised that I’ve used in my sons bathroom build. Must admit like the putty and haven’t any failures. Don’t use silicon. Great vid thanks. Mike
Cheers Mike! Yeah, I've used both and prefer the putty too. 👍
I had this problem I used THOMAS DUDLEY LTD BASIN WASTE SEAL KIT no silicone when that’s in best £3 I have ever spent
I always use a basinmate never leaks there only £1.48 toolstation
Andy in your opinion which is more reliable long term, copper and compression fittings of plastic and push fit?
Hi Andy, where is the run-on timer? Is it built into the duct fan? Also, could you let me know which duct fan you went with? I think I remember watching a video you made about it, but can't remember which video it was. I really like your idea of sharing one fan between two extraction points in your ducting... great idea. Thanks.
Run-on timer is in the inline fan itself. Was ages ago so afraid I don't have the model!
If you can remove the nut by hand, then it is not tightened enough.
Flexible duct needs to be pulled tight or condensation over time will gather in the ridges. I would have put the tee piece the other way round to exit straight out the vertical wall in the wc and therefore not needed the flexible bits. Another point to bear in mind is the number of bends as it affects the flow rate in the duct. Nit picky I know. Good video and thanks for your efforts.
Cheers! Yeah, there won't be any condensation. 👍
Did the BCO sign off the flexible vent pipe connections which would last about 5mins in a fire and not 30mins. ?
In a bathroom, humidity is the main issue, not the odour. So, it is completely compliant to have the extractor triggered by humidity.
Not if there's a toilet in the room, according to the regs! Unless you've got some other way to trigger it to remove odour in the event of humidity not being high enough. 🤔
those plastic push fit diy plumbing connections will leak
What make of fan is that? I put one of the Manrose in-line fans in my old bathroom (above in the loft space). You couldn’t hear the motor l, but the noise of the airflow was ridiculous.
As you briefly mentioned a wc with a window does not need an extractor.
I'd need to read the exact rules but yeah, pretty sure that's correct. 👍
Why not use the plumbers mate with the gasket?
I guess your theory on not using supplied hardware, should also extend to cableties now.
Yup - crazy! 🤪
The fused spur isn't required for isolation, a 3-pole isolator handles both permanent and switched lines just fine, but because the fan manufacturers refuse to design fans for installation on the circuits they know full well they're to be installed on, shifting the burden of protection from 20p of their own components to an hour or two of an electricians time. Very generous of them.
Of course, if you're not switching with the lights but independently as here, the FCU is a perfectly suitable isolator - but a fan isolator comes with a free label so what's not to like?
Indeed! 👍
Plumbers mate best.
We immediately switched off our fan in our downstairs loo after we put it in (to meet regs) as it's too noisy and close to living areas. I assume that's what most do.
That's what I see in 90% of properties. 😂👍
@@GosforthHandyman ours was just through an external wall. If I'd been through the effort you have I'd probably want it on! 👍
Appreciate you sticking to regs, and why you did it at that stage of the build but………
Can't beat old school Plumbers Mait. Not very fashionable these days, but there's a reason it's been around for donkey's years.
Yup, useful stuff!
You have a utility room with the gasboiler for the central heating and want to have intermittent ventilation in there? Anything on that in your UK building regs?
Modern boilers use closed flues and require no additional ventilation.
No additional requirements. 👍
Why do you switch between copper and plastic pipes? I would personally just use plastic as it’s easy! Curious to know if you had something in mind. Thank you! Been watching since your extension, keep up the informative videos.
Just avoiding too many joints behind the wall. 👍
Plastic can also be very unsightly and very very cheap looking. Especially the pushfit joints which are large and cumbersome. Just doesn't look professional at all
Re: Controls, my reading is that a bathroom can contain a toilet, sorry "sanitary accommodation", but still remains a bathroom, so humidity controls are fine.
Those definitions need to be clearer - what is "significant" water vapour? Would it kill them to put in some actual measurements?
Yup, it's all very vague. But as the fan needs to remove odour I don't think it's acceptable for it to only be humidity controlled. Never heard of this being questioned though! 👍
Andy you mentioned that any hole from the garage into the main house had to be fire sealed but does your bit of flexible ventilation pipe not breach that requirement as it would surely melt in a fire?
That's an interesting point.
Yup! All plastic pipes would fail. Vid on fire collars etc. coming up. 👍
Could you have attached the inline fan to the ceiling and a convenient joist?
Potentially but the vibration would be quite loud in the bedroom above (and the joists run the other way). 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Cheers, I'm wondering of the rubber grommets used in metal electrical back boxes would deal with the sound issue.
"fans should be quiet"
No no no. One of the purposes of a fan is to help disguise the sounds coming from the person on the toilet. :)
Insert Big Yin skit here
I always ask the client if they want a quiet one or loud one for this very purpose!! 😂
😂😂
Wash one hand at a time in that basin
No need to put PM on the actual waste, just put it round the hole on the bottom of the basin, it will never leak again
I can just imagine someone trying to throw a bit of tp in the toilet, only to have it float gently upwards towards the fan!
😂😂
So is the fan switch at arm height another isolator which will always be on, and then the fan pump is wired up to the light switch? It seemed you were using it as an isolator that you would manually need to turn on/off, is the 15min overrun then programmed at the pump?
I've got a similar situation at the moment where I want to vent a utility and WC room via one duct but each operating independently via one pump when lights are turns on however I may need two pumps?
The switch at arm height is just a normal switch and then there's the double pole fused spur isolator at the top. Completely separate from the light switch. The overrun is set on the fan. If you have 2 fans feeding the same duct you'd need some way to prevent one fan simply blowing out via the other. Can be done but gets even more complicated. 😁
A single fan can be controlled by two light switches (on the same circuit) with nothing more complex than a DPDT relay.
did they supply twice the amount of cable ties ? if so they prob assumed u would connect 2 together to make one longer one due to supply issues
Nope! 🙄😭
So, after the extract is signed off you can block off the utility room vent................
Rather than use a shelf for the extractor could you not have flipped it upside down and attached it to the ceiling?
At the risk of sounding like a know all-I had the same problem with a leaking sink. I tried several times with the tape and putty but no good. Then I came across a conical shaped rubber seal that goes underneath and into the sink aperture. As you tighten it, it forms a water tight seal onto the thread and onto the basin with little effort. They are an answer to prayer. No need for tape or putty.
Yeah they're great! Crazy they're not supplied as standard. Still potentially need to seal the top side depending on the shape of the ceramic. 👍
So how do you know that you are achieving 30l per min in the utility room?
Is it only by the spec of the fan? But then I guess you would need a fan that does 60l/min since you split the intakes between two rooms?
Yeah, but as it's not actually doing anything other than making the room less thermally efficient... I doubt any inspector would kick up a fuss. 😁👍
I recently installed a similar in-line extractor for my cellar..if it's similar the unit will have a way to wire it up so it extracts more air (but noisier) or less air (but quieter).
If it's similar a 'mistake' rewiring it back up when the inspector leaves will help pass inspection ;)
You should test it. The spec of the fan is only a nominal value, imagine putting that fan on a 50m long pipe, you'd get no flow since all the energy imparted but he fan would be used just to move the volume without achieving any flow.
i always assumed ud just have the toilet in the utility room without any division walls ,since the use of it is in and out same for the access to the facilities in the room, but i suppose itll add extra value anyway since it becomes an extra room, and well, u never know when someone gets a tummy bug ...
As it's the main route out to the garage it really needs to be a separate space. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman ahhh gotcha
Only ever fitted one waste and pair of taps to a sink and I used plumbers tape. It was years ago and those bits never leaked. I fitted the whole sink on my bed as that was the largest space in in the house back then.
I keep switching off the wetroom extractor as anything outside the window sets it off. Only when the place is dry though.
Aren't there rules about fitting a disabled accessible loos when putting in a new one?
Disabled access loos - I think that's just for new builds. 👍👍
@@GosforthHandyman Yeah, comes under 'visitable dwellings'. New builds only, or you'd never be able to do more than put a coat on paint on most of my town..
New and infeasible requirements during refurbishment or extension can be a huge limiting factor on making worthwhile improvements to existing buildings, at least they recognise this to some degree.
Really strange that the ventilation flow requirements for the utility room are double that of what the bathroom needs to have.
A bathroom especially with a shower in it produces far more moisture than a sink in an utility room?
Yup, it's insane. As I say, with a modern washing machine and tumble dryer running full tilt I measured no difference in humidity. Makes no sense. 🤪
Regulations are written as if "one size fits all". A good inspector will understand this and make accommodations for the specific situation, but there are always some who will insist on following every detail of the regs whether or not they really apply. And then there are some who are clueless or lazy and sign off when there are faults that even a layman would spot. How is it that buildings hundreds of years old are still standing and habitable without any inspections? ;-)
Actually, the regulations are specifically kept loose for this reason. The Approved Documents are NOT regulations - they are guidance to comply with the current understanding of the impact of the regulations. Following them as closely as possible is the path of least resistance, but it's not the only one.
Yup!
Not a fan of the plastic push-fit connections.
Never fitted a vanity that wasn't chipboard and knackered by splashing in months. I'd rather use pallet wood and a splash of paint that can be refreshed easily.
Yeah, my thoughts too. Would rather build our own really. 👍
You never want a black ring😂
😬😂
Wrt table 4.2, Check the amount of insulation I have to use in my build to adhere to Scottish Building standards 🙄
Isolator switches are such a fail. They're meant to be for maintenance work, yet are presented to the homeowner as a normal switch, which inevitably leads to their use as one. Fans are the first victim, permanently disconnected.
Yup, so often left switched off... and most sparks seem to isolate at the CU anyway. 🤪
Clockwise, guess Chinese products have different customs?
Guess so!! 😂
Please God that's the end no more nasty surprises your a brick no matter what you get it done it will be a palace when its finished .
If you have to turn something clockwise to loosen it 9/10 it's made in China 😂
Building regs using "should" rather than "must". So i should, which means to me, I dont have to?!
You just run the risk of it not being signed off. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman I agree, the wording doesn't help. I prefer "must", no ifs or buts.
@@sajulldin5147 The regulation in this context quite clearly says "shall" - everything else is guidance.
I don't understand the transition between copper to pvc then copper then plastic again?
Is that a British thing??
Copper pipe has a tendency to leak from corrosion due to the chlorine in municipal drinking water.
Why not go all plastic???
There's copper pipework around here which is well over 50 years old - no corrosion, no leaks. No such tendencies.
Lot of graft gone into that wc but well worth it 🤙🏾🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
Cheers Steve! The entire kitchen was easier than this little room! 😂