Working with wonky walls... and first fix plumbing - new toilet (part 6)
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- Опубліковано 21 тра 2023
- This video has mostly ended up about attaching things to wonky walls... and there’s a bit of plumbing too. Welcome to part 6 in our mini-series about building a downstairs loo and utility room as part of our self-build extension project.
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#Plumbing #Construction #DIY - Навчання та стиль
Cheers Andy, another great series. I’m sure I speak for other DIY novices - the breakdowns and explanations are really appreciated.
No worries - hope they're useful!
Crikey Andy😮its like we are doing parallel jobs😬I'm straightening up an entire kitchens worth of wonkey walls, virtually using the same method as you👊(I'm using a string line instead of a straight piece of wood👍) Great job pal👌
Ha cheers Del! Folk don't appreciate how much time this adds to a job. Good luck with yours! 👍😎
@@GosforthHandyman Video's to come Andy😉
That is a plum out of plumb mate 😂😂.
The main part of our house was built in 1540. Just finished refurbishing a bathroom. At one point the laser level could be heard laughing as I was trying to vaguely spare things up
My last cottage was like that, around 1610 - 1670 we think, no wall was anywhere near straight!
Ha yes, it can certainly be a challenge in older properties! 1540 - wow, some history there! 👍👍
My latest house is the same. Somewhere between 200 - 300 years old and not a straight wall in the house. 🤣
Daughters house is 200 - 300 DAYS old and its not got a straight wall in the house 😮😮😢
@@GosforthHandyman our place is riddled with history
Great series Andy, but missed an easy chance for a true square @10:45 - rip the left stud 3mm before attaching to your partition wall. I feel you're the sort of perfectionist that'd remind himself of the missed chance to get square, everyday you're sitting on that loo........ 😀
You absolutely need to deburr pipes - the burr can cause cavitation which, over a long enough time, will actually pinhole the pipe. It can also cause accumulation of limescale, which you don't want, for example, right at the entry to a service valve (three guesses why they never work when you go to use them). Oh, and the burr itself can get worn off and deposit little pieces of copper in your valves, too.
Plus smoother pipes are quieter, we all like quiet pipes.
Where you were worried about melting the soil pipe, the simple solution is to put a damp rag in between, and one of those fibreglass mats as well if there's room.
I've only ever seen PB plumber use a deburring tool and myself 😂😂😂
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk Well, yours is a rough trade..😁
@@Monkeh616 you mean rouge trade 😂😂😂
I deburr pipes👍😁
@@tirvplumbing I deburr after every visit to the toilet.
Excellent work as usual. Only thing I'd advise is maybe turn the gas bottle down a bit so it's not so raging hot. Just a small sharp flame is enough and should mean less risk of solder bubbling out.
Great job!
Didn't know you could use a spring for bending copper! Assumed they were only for plastic conduit. Good to know, thanks!
You know a laser level will change your life mate! All the buggering about with bits of wood, levels and roofing squares are behind you 😂
Huepar have some excellent one’s really cheap too!
I’ve just ordered a second one!
Takes a lot of the ‘art’ out of it, but we’re are trying to make money, and we already know we can do it the ‘hard/ struggle ‘ way.
Take care mate!
Couple of tips, with pre - soldered fittings its best to still add a dab of your own solder just to be on the safe side.
Otherwise your relying on them being already filled sufficiently, which on the odd occasion isn't always the case.
Also, its best practice to apply flux with a small brush, using your finger can easily contaminate the joint and also your tub of flux with debris.
Cheers! I normally add a blob of solder, but between setting the studs on fire and melting the soil pipe it was too much to think about. 😂👍
This was much more of a fiddle, and adapt & adjust as you go, but much achieved in the end and well set up for the next stages which should make them go smoother and quicker. Nice to see this rather than bodge on top of bodge throughout the build !
With so many wonky non-plumb and non-level surfaces it's hard to select a datum point to start - I guess some would say that makes it easier !
Always look forward to these episodes dropping!
Cheers - loads more to come!
Really enjoy these videos. Top Job.
I hope you spend that JBL cheque wisely 😉
Your plumbing is not at all shabby in fact it was canny good.😀👍
Those inline valves for the water are a godsend. I refurbed one of those 1920-30 terraced cottages about 4yr ago for my niece, with my mate who's a general builder & he said when we rip the kitchen & bathroom out put a valve on every pipe (at first it was so we had hot & cold water for coffee😅) just as well because the flex to the hand basin was faulty & burst on a Sunday night & l was able just to isolate handbasin until i got a new flexy.
Bringing back memories of my bathroom. About an inch of slumped plaster at the bottom of the walls. Ended up ripping it all off back to brick and then found the builders didn’t leave as bigger cavity gap at the 1st floor as they did at the ground. Coupled to not making the bathroom big enough so they hacked the walls out to the the standard bath in and made the room so out of square it’s was an inch out over the width of a door.
The first wall I ever built was not exactly plumb, but it did have plenty of strong cement mix in it. Plasterer put nearly an inch on at the top outside to fix it, and almost a wash at the bottom. Good luck though to whoever has to touch the floor I poured over the old cracked and warped old one though, 6 inches of concrete in a 2m by 2m room, and a full 50kg bag of cement. Fixed the water problem at high tide completely.
You've overcome all the challenges really well
Cheers Tahir!
great watch Andy well done. 👍
Cheers Gary!
Hi Andy, I've found that using a brush for the flux gives a better result. You can brush a bit of flux on after soldering too which cleans the joint up nicely before the damp cloth.
Love the videos, keep 'em coming. 👍
You are doing a great job Andy , I'm no plumber I would be happy with the work you have done That wall is way off, you done well putting up the stud work and packers Can't wait to see it finished I never used soldered joints only compression joints but i know they can be a bit bulkey but like I said you doing a great job keep it up I will catch you on the next video take care mate .
Cheers! I don't mind solder joints but this is about my limit. No idea how plumbers do it in tight spaces without setting everything on fire, so to speak. 😂
@@GosforthHandyman You doing all right mate !
Your plumbing is fine in copper, all i wud say is dont use ur fingers as flux is acidic and will mess ur skin up. Get a flux brush and let the joint cool down before u move it or put a wet rag on it let the solder turn a dull colour before u move it.
Cheers! I actually had a flux brush but it ended up covered in sawdust and I've been too lazy to replace it. 😂
You already know how much I enjoy watching you work, Andy - your attention to detail is second to none. Having paid for a ‘plumber’ to fit out my (MFI) shower room and having to finish it myself I discovered that a reasonably competent DIYer can tackle most things and that I can actually do plumbing. I do prefer to stick to woodwork, though and watching your video back then would have been invaluable. Keep up the good work. 🌞
Cheers Ray! Have you had your visit to Gosforth yet? 👍😎
@@GosforthHandyman Thanks for remembering. We’ll be passing your way on the road to my wife’s home town of Berwick in July. 🌞
Could you have used a scrap of stud and drilled a hole to poke a pencil through at half the width of the stud and use it as a reference guide for the placement of the screws? Might have saved a little time and let you butt the stud up against the non-plasterboarded wall without checking for plumb on that axis.
You shouldn't immediately cool the soldered area with a wet towel because there is a risk of shrinkage cracks occuring (thermal shock). Just let it sit and cool down by itself and clean it afterwards.
Interesting. Plumbers? 🤔
@@GosforthHandyman Plumbers should of course do it because they earn money with the repairs. It takes a while, usually longer than the warranty period, for compromised solder joints to leak. And if you wonder if I am kidding, well who knows. 🙃
As I always say if it works and its hidden then its a decent job. I remember doing pipeing for my bathroom with solder and when the water was turned on i had a real water closet 😅😅😅😅😅 decided to go wit compression and push fits after that. Luckily my nephews a plumber so any solder work he can do.
👍👍👍 Thank you.
Thats a pretty plumb job with the pipework. I wouldn't advise using your fingers to apply the flux though. The flux is not usually kind to skin and you could contaminate the joint with oil or grease from your skin causing it to fail. Either use a flux brush, or some solder wire or failing that an offcut of copper tube
Cheers Nick! I used to use a flux brush, I'm getting lazy. Noted! 👍👍
Would like to see a safe plate in the centre stud over that gas pipe. Great series again, keep it coming.
Cheers Dave! It's behind the cistern so can't see it ever being in danger. 👍
Excelente video saludos 👍👌
👍😎
Hi sir I must admit I’ve never used the plastic pipe and fittings , but I can definitely see the advantages . Was there a particular reason for not doing the whole job in plastic? . As regards plum walls even some of the new properties are often out of level and even not even square . So at least the builders of your house had a reason for such problems . But these days there should be no excuse . Best wishes and kind regards 😀👍👍👍
More ingenuity on show, and the music choices fitted perfectly 👍🏼
Cheers Mandy!
Great video !!! Thanks 😊😊😊😊😊😊😇😇😇😇😇😇😇
Basically that is why plasterboard was invented, and skirting boards, and each and every filler.
Exactly! 😂
So, you guys have the same problem with tapes.I have six and they all end up congregating in one spot.I was hoping once my buddy came over with my Gosforth one,it would solve the problem,but I guess not LOL
Nice work a d no supervision!!
Not on this one! 😁
My house was built in 1979 as part of a set of standard houses in a planned community. Not a plumb wall or square corner in here, and it's all stud and drywall/gypsum board. In one place, I pulled the board off because the stud they had inside the wall was a banana that was pushing everything else out. On one wall through the center of the house, there's an out-of-plumb lean which caused all the doors to slam open. So when I hung new doors, for them to be plumb, I had to be an inch out of plane from the existing wall. Hard to do anything "right" in that mess.
Lordy, that sounds like fun! 😮
good video !
Cheers Mark!
The littlest room can take the most time every time
“Champion”.
Good work there Andy. Will you fit DCV/NRV (Double Check Valve / Non-Return Valve) to the sink and toilet?
No need Buddy for this install
I have used a quick fit to extend the pipers for new radiator and towel dryer, but why did you mixed different pipes, copper and plastic? You can get a quick fit for copper.
Being a Northerner i know what screw wiff means 😂......try explaining that to your international subscribers Andy
Or is it scew wift 😂
Spend some time getting use to the pipe bender on scrap pipe the spring is ok but pipe kinks happen, interesting video 👍
Old pipe the tip is to first anneal them with the torch, then bend them. Had to do that recently, stub of pipe that had been kinked by the copper thieves, so had to chisel it out, make it sort of round again and fit an elbow on. First thing after the chisel bit on the drill to make a hole as to anneal that copper so it would be soft, then straighten the end a little, and make it round enough. Then sand clean, lots of toffee, and solder on the elbow. No leak at all.
Only thing that I can say is take the time to learn how to use the bending machine, it will serve you well! Good luck and keep it up.
It’s never wise to film it going in, get you into trouble on you tube😂you are the king of double entendres and I love it😂
😂😎
I thought the electrical tape red and blue was just me! Nice work sir.
Cheers! Gotta love the red and blue tape! 😎
Always mark your gas pipe with the appropriate yellow tape and when you use your blow lamp Always use the inner cone as this is the hottest part. If you need anymore tips message me as I am always happy to help.
Nooice!
Would it not be easier where the walls buldge out, rather than wedging, to remove a bit of the old plaster so you don't lose as much depth?
I think that you are the only builder that would spend 1-1/2 hour to level one stud.
Most builders would just hammer in those studs, adjusting them the best they can and move on.
The old saying is that's what molding is for!
😂😂😂🔨
And caulk! 😂
The wall in my kitchen was so out of level and used a quadrant to hide the gaps. My brother was muttering something awful.
Ha, it certainly presents its challenges!
4:28 if the plasterboard is going to be scribed to wall, wouldn't the wall be the easier reference?
Potentially! Just a bit awkward drilling so close to those pipes. 👍
This is what gypliner was designed for
Can't abide metal studs!
@@GosforthHandyman 😂
Neither did I. But it’s brilliant for this or when you want to box in something tight and not lose space for thickness of timber.
Would you please show how you test for leaks? Regards Paul
This was ages ago, but I just connect to mains water pressure, flush it through in to a bucket, close the service valves, leave it for a few hours and check for any leaks. 👍
Why do you use the metal pipes for the water inlets and not plastic? Thanks, good video.
Cheers! I prefer to have as few joints as possible behind walls and I can do nice rigid bends with copper. Also shows up on a detector, not that anyone should be drilling there. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Makes sense!
Do you take any precautions using these plastic fittings as they wouldnt show up woth a stud/pipefinder?
Are the tubes metal impregnated or could you stick some foil on the wall behind the plastic pipes?
I'm having similar issues with a 70's house. One of the outer walls is about 35mm out of plumb over 2.5m. Considering the framing, it's not movement over time, it was built that way in the first place. Even the Romans and Babylonians could get things plumb, it simply comes down to laziness, lack of care and lack of oversight/inspection.
Yup! Just look at our studio room. No excuse for it really. 😥
I've got an old house Andy can you do a video on scribing please
Plumb crazy? Half a bubble off plumb? Now you know where those sayings come from!
Too right Rob! 😂
I am just curious. Is it standard practice to anchor the toilet tank to the wall in the UK? I have not seen that practice in the US, although it may be done in certain areas of the country of which I am unaware.
I enjoy this series to see the differences between US and UK building, plumbing and electrical practices.
Yeah, 99% of cisterns are attached to the wall in the UK... normally very badly with rusty screws that you can't get back out. 😂
Why didn't you tee into the hot and cold feed coming down the wall on the right hand side, less pipe work...
Plastic pipe is easy to shape, without joints, so why not just use all plastic?
I haven't tried that many tight bends in plastic. I'll need to give it some practice. Do you warm the plastic or just use a pipe bender?
@@GosforthHandyman Thanks for getting back. I used 15mm P-EX for new radiators, the pipe concealed with gentle 90 degree bends under a shower base - your use of copper behind the plasterboard was a worry for me, in case I had broken building regs. With gentle use of a heat gun, I was also able to make a tight "S" bend with the P-EX to route the toilet cistern fill. All seems to be fine, as the work was completed late 2020.
No P or J trap for the sink/basin waste? Or is that outside the room?
Ok. I see you use a bottle trap in the next video, which I assume has the same or similar function. I've never seen one of those here in the US.
Yeah, bottle trap. But in hindsight I was never particularly happy with it. 🙄
I think it's your cat that's sneaking of with your tape measures.🤔
That would explain a lot! 😂👍
What was the paste you were putting on the copper joints? You seemed to just heat it up without using solder.
Flux - these fittings have a solder ring built in. www.screwfix.com/p/yorkshire-copper-solder-ring-equal-90-elbows-15mm-5-pack/6594g
@@GosforthHandyman o nice. Thks.
13:13 Just use longer screws...
@2:22 Why is the hot water pipe significantly smaller than the cold water pipe?
The cold is the main trunk for the whole house, so supplies the fridge, outside tap, dishwasher, sink etc. The hot only supplies the sink in the kitchen. 👍
Please can I ask you a question? IF the soil pipe from my upstairs toilet runs down between my kitchen and utility room, would any plumber worth his salt, be able to access said soil pipe (plasterboard box around it) and connect a new downstairs toilet to it? I'm disabled and desperately in need of a functioning downstairs loo. Currently have a dysfunctional macerator type and am trying to avoid the stairlift the Council want to give me. Just need to know if it's a possibility before I start opening my big gob!
Yep should be able to ‘tee’ off the soil stack. Without knowing the layout of the property, if the utility room is next to the down stairs toilet for example as long as a fall can be achieved with a 100mm pipe then yes. After all the macerated material must feed into a foul water drain. It just does this with a smaller pipe
@@dougsaunders8109 As I thought - my plan would be to put my washing machine and dryer stacked where the macerator is now, as there's a water supply and power there, leaving my utility with room to put in a toilet and small sink, and a small sit in/walk in bath which suits me more than a wet room that I am scared of falling in! The Council won't even look at doing that and I don't understand why not. There is a back door in there that I don't use as got another, just happy to have that boarded up, or even stick a blind over it! Am getting a new combi boiler, would that be okay if positioned above said bath, or are they easy to move? I have a big understairs cupboard in there (mostly full height) where my fuse board etc is, behind a door, if I could get them to put it in there would that be better?
What Doug said! 👍😁 Obviously difficult to say without seeing it though. Could be quite a big job, but should be do-able by a competent plumber and you might need a plasterer to tidy things up afterwards. Combis aren't that hard to move by a gas engineer, but depends how awkward the new flue route might be.
@@GosforthHandyman Thank you!! I need the boiler people to come and do a survey really, heaven knows when that's likely to happen, lol?
Hope you get it sorted to your satisfaction. Don’t be too hasty to turn down the offer of a stair lift though. My friend has one and it means she can safely access all the rooms in her house and transport items such as laundry by herself which previously required a helper as she needed her hands to hold the bannisters. Also remember they will install a seat and grab rails in a wet room and even a ‘walk-in’ bath includes a small step so they are correct that you would have less chance of falling in a wet room.
Thought the piping turned out pretty well…. Shame to cover it up!
This series is terrible! I have things to do I can't keep dropping everything as soon as another one drops 😂, it's like the house renovation all over again!
Ha, sorry 'bout that! 😂
@29:18 No tightening nuts on the copper to plastic transition fittings?
JG - they're amazing. Here's how they work... ua-cam.com/video/v6kRm3KKCQo/v-deo.html
What if you need a shorter length of pipe? The secondary seal on the end of the pipe isn't there.
It's just an insert. You can cut the pipe anywhere and pop the insert back in. 👍
C16 or C24 timber ?
I honestly have no idea! Was nice and straight. It was ages ago but I think it was this: www.jtdove.co.uk/products/50x100mm-cls
Yeah, I wouldn't want to be eating out into a toilet either.
Only on weekends.
Why didn't you just use pushfit pipe is plastic for the whole runs?? Hot especially, and it would have saved a soldered joint behind the boards.
Tricky to bend at tight angles.
read every tool in your list the only one i wanted is not there. the inside deburring tool " i am probably not using the correct name" but if you could point me in the right direction please.
Just search the usual suspects for 'deburring tool' and they'll pop up in droves. They're all fine for plastic and copper.
Try searching "copper pipe deburring tool". Scamazon sell similar ones to the type Andy Mac was using.
Here's an affiliate link to a similar one. I've had mine for years, still on the original blade! amzn.to/3MQPaec
Very nice using 'Proper Copper' as installs with bendy plastic pipes look ugly and lazy
it looked like you were ready to tear out any hair you have left in your head
I'm not surprised it's all gone! 😂
Hope you bent the pipe around your shin and not knee cap!
Knee pads! 😁
too much talking
That's kinda the point of this series. 👍😎
@@GosforthHandyman Fair enough, I can't promise to watch them all, very much enjoyed the last seriez😬😬