so many videos out there from people who are clueless. Dave's verbal description was very good. Better than videos I have seen physically showing you how to do it. Thanks Dave.
You are the best Dave. This was a comprehensive video, love all of the tips, other youtube sites didn't go that far. I feel very comfortable doing this now and I'm sure it will save me a lot of money. God Bless.
Thank you for the feedback. Remember to visit us at the Wood Heat Stoves site And check our blog frequently for specials and tips, Wood Heat Stoves / newblog. Hope everyone is enjoying their summer!
After having gone through the long procedure of replacing my wood-burning stove door gasket, I decided to go another route. It became necessary because my stove had a unique door that has no known gasket available. The gasket was wide and flat and never fit right anyway. That company is no longer in existence. I decided to go the same route that I took with replacing the gasket on my Big Green Egg. I purchased a couple of tubes of Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone that has a very high heat resistance. It will take 500º constantly and 700º intermittently. Since I never get past 400º on the thermometer on my stove pipe immediately above the stove, the fit works very well and is virtually permanent. I first removed the door and cleaned out all of the old gasket and cement, brushed the grove out, washed it, and let it dry. Then I drew a bead of the Permatex Ultra Copper that I placed in the door groove only and made the bead the same thickness as the removed gasket. I then smoothed it out by hand, let it dry to touch, and shut the door carefully. Part of the seal did not touch as proved by the lack of any indention. I then added more seal to that area, and let it dry overnight. Only the door groove needs to be caulked. That eliminates damaging the seal by bumping it with a log if the seal were placed on the stove. I was lucky because it fit! Eureka! No more gaskets to replace.
Yes, we recommend removing the door for easiest operation but then locking the door on the stove as soon as the gasket is applied, so that it fits perfectly and adjustments are made while cement is wet and soft. In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
Yeap, excellent video but I was hoping you mentioned the window gasket which I'm having a problem with. Is it supposed to show on both sides of window?
The glass gasket normally wraps around the edge of the glass. The most important aspect is that the glass never touches metal parts which will expand and contract causing the glass to crack. In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
Would've been a good tutorial if the job had ACTUALLY been done. My cement dries by the time I get the bead down so the rope just rolls or falls off. Do I keep spraying the cement with water until I get the rope stuck to it? Thats why you need to actually show the whole process to cover everything, not just talk about it.
Any gasket cement that will work at or near freezing? Need to replace on a used stove just picked up and no warm area to work on the stove, sub-zero out and the next warm spell will be around freezing... Otherwise would have to work on the door itself and make some sort of frame from 2x2s and stack some weights upon it...? Old seal was falling off so no good, need to heat up my pole barn to get the snow to slide off...
guess I have a parabolic heater I could get the temps up a bit in there, just a bad situation when no heated area to work in and not into lifting this stove in and out a couple times if I found one...
Only danger I could see is that the seal would not stick, the sealant if heated up prematurely may become more liquid and either drip away or drift into the gasket, perhaps try heating up some of the product on a chunk of metal with a hair dryer or heat gun with thermometer measuring up to 1000 degrees?
The goal is to have enough compression to make the door seal airtight but not so much that it is hard to close the door. It may be harder to close the door for the first few uses, which is fine, but the last thing you want is to let the cement dry and then find that you can't latch the door at all! In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
noreaster07, sorry i missed this.. Sometimes glass requires a a gasket that wraps around the glass, ie, covers both sides, but a few designs have only small pads of gasketing to protect the glass where it is clamped in. We have glass and door gasket of all sizes ready to order. In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
so many videos out there from people who are clueless. Dave's verbal description was very good. Better than videos I have seen physically showing you how to do it. Thanks Dave.
You are the best Dave. This was a comprehensive video, love all of the tips, other youtube sites didn't go that far. I feel very comfortable doing this now and I'm sure it will save me a lot of money. God Bless.
Thank you for the thorough review of installing a gasket seal.
Utterly fantastic explanation.
Very helpful. Just what I needed to get this project started.
I believe the stove needs to be fired for the final cure. Getting ready to do mine. Thanks for the great video!
Who the F**k gave this a thumbs down? Excellent video !
Thank you for the feedback. Remember to visit us at the Wood Heat Stoves site And check our blog frequently for specials and tips, Wood Heat Stoves / newblog. Hope everyone is enjoying their summer!
Thanks, that explained what I wasn't sure about and that was weather to use the gasket loose or stretch it.
How do you measure the size of the cord. Do you measure the circumference or just the side which is not glued
After having gone through the long procedure of replacing my wood-burning stove door gasket, I decided to go another route. It became necessary because my stove had a unique door that has no known gasket available. The gasket was wide and flat and never fit right anyway. That company is no longer in existence. I decided to go the same route that I took with replacing the gasket on my Big Green Egg. I purchased a couple of tubes of Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone that has a very high heat resistance. It will take 500º constantly and 700º intermittently. Since I never get past 400º on the thermometer on my stove pipe immediately above the stove, the fit works very well and is virtually permanent.
I first removed the door and cleaned out all of the old gasket and cement, brushed the grove out, washed it, and let it dry. Then I drew a bead of the Permatex Ultra Copper that I placed in the door groove only and made the bead the same thickness as the removed gasket. I then smoothed it out by hand, let it dry to touch, and shut the door carefully. Part of the seal did not touch as proved by the lack of any indention. I then added more seal to that area, and let it dry overnight. Only the door groove needs to be caulked. That eliminates damaging the seal by bumping it with a log if the seal were placed on the stove.
I was lucky because it fit! Eureka! No more gaskets to replace.
This was of great help! Thanks!!!
Yes, we recommend removing the door for easiest operation but then locking the door on the stove as soon as the gasket is applied, so that it fits perfectly and adjustments are made while cement is wet and soft.
In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
Hi Dave, great video. thanks for the tip.
Well done video. Thanks!
Great tips. Thanks so much!
Thank you for the video!
Thank you dave
I've been told to first remove the wood stove door in order to replace the gasket. Do you recommend this??
Yeap, excellent video but I was hoping you mentioned the window gasket which I'm having a problem with. Is it supposed to show on both sides of window?
The glass gasket normally wraps around the edge of the glass. The most important aspect is that the glass never touches metal parts which will expand and contract causing the glass to crack.
In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
Excellent
Would've been a good tutorial if the job had ACTUALLY been done. My cement dries by the time I get the bead down so the rope just rolls or falls off. Do I keep spraying the cement with water until I get the rope stuck to it? Thats why you need to actually show the whole process to cover everything, not just talk about it.
Any gasket cement that will work at or near freezing?
Need to replace on a used stove just picked up and no warm area to work on the stove, sub-zero out and the next warm spell will be around freezing...
Otherwise would have to work on the door itself and make some sort of frame from 2x2s and stack some weights upon it...? Old seal was falling off so no good, need to heat up my pole barn to get the snow to slide off...
guess I have a parabolic heater I could get the temps up a bit in there, just a bad situation when no heated area to work in and not into lifting this stove in and out a couple times if I found one...
We have no experience trying to use materials in the cold.
In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
thank you for the feedback! visit our site if we can help with parts or manuals, we would be happy to.
Can I apply this adhesive and gasket while the stove is warm I need use my stove asap; any dangers there
Only danger I could see is that the seal would not stick, the sealant if heated up prematurely may become more liquid and either drip away or drift into the gasket, perhaps try heating up some of the product on a chunk of metal with a hair dryer or heat gun with thermometer measuring up to 1000 degrees?
We have not experimented with warm stove scenario.
In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
It's my understanding that you should not stretch out the gasket material. Or compress it. It should be installed taking care NOT to do that
The goal is to have enough compression to make the door seal airtight but not so much that it is hard to close the door. It may be harder to close the door for the first few uses, which is fine, but the last thing you want is to let the cement dry and then find that you can't latch the door at all!
In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
noreaster07, sorry i missed this..
Sometimes glass requires a a gasket that wraps around the glass, ie, covers both sides, but a few designs have only small pads of gasketing to protect the glass where it is clamped in.
We have glass and door gasket of all sizes ready to order.
In the future, please send emails to Info@WoodHeatStoves.com for prompt responses.
Dude looks like Christian Bale a little bit
Why didn't you USE an old stove and gasket?? Not helpful at all.
Make it yourself thanks to woodprix plans. I think it's the best way to learn how to build it in the cheapest way.