Given LPL's overall experience and professionalism, I'm quite sure he deserves the benefit of the doubt regarding his own safety. I would be shocked if he wasn't protecting himself in a way that was totally adequate for his experiments.
Might want to wear an athletic cup or something, too. I've got a Kevlar dick protector from my time in the Army that I favor for these types of events.
I was gonna say you can probably modify a 2-jaw gear puller to do the same thing. Get a battery-powered impact wrench and make quick work of defeating these types of steering wheel locks.
@@joshuakarr-BibleMan No the steering wheel is easy to cut and bend. It’s designed that way for safety. The devices were discontinued in the 90s because they didn’t work. The people doing it would leave the clubs in the empty parking spot as a joke.
This is just a modified puller, like a bearing puller or pulley puller, for automotive uses. Two things. First apply oil or grease to the threads where it goes through, and to the bearing surface. That will make it way easier and help the tool last longer. Next, drape a blanket or such over the items while in use to absorb the high speed projectiles that can happen when things break. Simple additions to the help properly and safely use this tool.
Yep, good advice, I use several layers of an old army tarp. And greasing up the screw is a good idea. I think that washer is a phosphor-bronze bearing washer. But I've found it never hurts to put a little oil on those to get them started.
While the blanket is a very good idea for safety, it's not so good for a video demonstration, because we want to see what sort of mangulation the tool does to the lock.
*I happen to collect vintage locksmithing tools.* Great icebreaker. That's almost as quotable as Leslie Neilsons: "I'm a locksmith. AND - I'm a locksmith."
@@philsharp758 hate to be a wet blanket, but LPL works Corporate law and hasn't ever touched Criminal Law; or so he's said in that one talk he gave at a Hacker's Convention.
By the way, thanks to you, Bosnian Bill and Deviant Ollam, I recently figured out how some individuals were accessing a secured area at my employer. Medeco M3 locks are only good if your latch and strike were aligned right. I showed them how one could bypass most of the entry doors with a traveler hook. Got a few weird looks but also thanked profusely and facilities is now setting things to rights. So. Thank you three.
@@LexYeen I gather that this Ollam is trans and is somewhere center-right, center, or left on some or all of their political stances. I also gather @bljdeep is deeply involved in one of those milieus that tends toward cultish tribalism in its use of language. Really trying to signal group membership and create a distinctive way of speaking that is less comprehensible to outsiders and serves to insulate members from outside source of knowledge.
@@bljdeep That's fair, I could have toned it down a bit! For what it's worth, I was trying to call out cultish behavior. I've seen, like, two lines from you. In text. I don't know what your essential qualities are as a person. But not fair for me to try to make you into an object lesson. That was selfish, and I apologize.
Not really. He's busted a few Masterlocks and the one-and-only thing they do right is materials. The harder steels they use (at least in their heavier locks) would have put up more fight, then likely shattered against this tool. They melt against the mere threat of a lock pick, though. Okay, correction: They also have pretty good marketing, at least for the ignorant masses.
@@wurfyy Except for the majority of their engines nowadays, you're correct. In the 90s, Hyundai/KIA was notorious for changing wiring harness color-coding mid-year without offering schematic updates. They did a lot of things to lower manufacturing costs just like all manufacturers do. They've always been cheap (never reliable) transportation, but their engine problems in the 2000s should've made them go the way of Daewoo.
You're a smart man wearing the safety glasses. That could have potentially shattered into a lot of small pieces. I probably would have been wearing gloves as well.
Even a tiny flake from the breaking, propelled into your eye, will mess up your day. Or your life. I tell people who are loathe to bother with eye protection, "You have two so you have a chance of learning from being stupid. But you don't HAVE to learn the hard way."
In Highschool I had a metalshop type class working with aluminum. Was turning a part on a lathe when a little 2mmish bit of material bounced in between my safty glasses and face getting stuck ON my eye thankfully not embedded. Oh how fun it was to sit for 2 hours waiting on the nurse because they couldn't simply get it out of my eye. IMO even cheap safty glasses are not safty glasses. Get yourself some with a gasket like trim to better protect your peepers.
Not exactly true! We do have secure computing devices that are secure against physical access by design! Even someone with incredible knowledge and expensive equipment will still be challenging. The only consumer device closest to most computers would be the modern Xboxes which run a hardened version of Windows and significantly hardened hardware.
@@0x225 I would like to see pictures of what you have in mind. Most PCs I have worked with can be opened in a few seconds and the componets (graphics card, storage,etc) unslotted from the motherboard very quckly.
@@David_Crayford Depends what you are talking about with physical security, there, if you are talking about removing components then yeah anything that isn't soldered is trivial but some machines do have memory inside of the SOC package and the SOC being soldered to the SOC that connections soldered storage etc. It is very easy to destroy, yes. I am talking about tamper resistant machines where it keeps the information secure and prevents most if not all tampering attempts and may even leave physical evidence behind or logs such as in high security workstations which can wipe all encryption keys when tampered with.
The first time I saw a Club defeated was a local news program. They took a hack saw, cut through the steering wheel and pulled the Club off. Steering wheel has a metal core. Still drivable with a split steering wheel. Took like ten seconds.
I'm not sure of that particular brand but early versions were marked under the name The Club. Perhaps because it would be better protection to beat some one with it than lock your car and walk away.@@_ninjas555
Some 25 years ago there was a TV show, where two experts on car security were tasked to move 10 cars from one parking lot to another. Few cars have devices like this, and it either had plastic parts of it was mounted to a steering wheel made of plastic. All of them were simply yanked out with bare hands, mostly without damage to the cars. The only car which stood the challenge was old Lada, because it was broken, and could not start.
I'm sure the tool is easier to turn when used on a club that's installed on a steering wheel. You wouldn't be fighting the leverage of having to hold tool and club at same time.
Underrated comment - the only disadvantage of it being in a car is the lack of space to turn the lever. You would probably need to be off to one side leaning in - on the other hand that might be safer from flying fragments.
Nice video. Kool tool. A light lubricant on the threads will make it a little easier. A full face shield and gloves will protect you more. I'm a retired civil engineer and have seen some nasty chinesium failures. Good Luck, Rick
a hacksaw on the steering wheel was also common. Those clubs seemed like a great idea and rapidly went out of style once people realized that car thieves didn't care about keeping the steering wheel pristine.
@@stevebabiak6997when the car next to it doesn't have a club and you want to joyride only an idiot is going to want to deal with cutting the steering wheel
Back in th the day when the club was poplar, supposedly some thieves used freon or dry ice to freeze the lock mechanism and then hit it with a hammer and it would just pop apart, they would also just cut a notch in the steering wheel.
I reckon the people stealing Hyundais are also familiar with catalytic converter theft. A cordless reciprocating saw is probably their tool of choice. Clearly not the professional's choice! Keep up the good work! These videos are addicting.
I saw one of those Club-type steering wheel locks in the wild the other day. I was amazed they still made them. I was doubly amazed that people still bought them.
In 2003 I had gone for a run and only taken my door key with me. Locked other things in the trunk. Someone was watching while I close the vehicle and stole everything. Including my keys for the club. The AA guy that came did a much easier destructive method. The cast metal housing around the key is very cheap casting. He hit it 3 times with a hammer and it completely shattered and came apart.
I used a similar tool as a helicopter mechanic in the Army to, albeit smaller, to remove the engine input seals on the E/UH-60A/E/L/Q. Instead of the hook was two pieces of safety wire looped behind the forward rotating half of the seal. The threaded part was then placed against the input flange retaining nut rethreaded onto the input pinon, then a socket place over it to protect the pinion and nut from damage. Then slowly turn the threaded rod and voila.
I have one of those, didn’t know what it was. Took it from gramps garage when he passed. Said to my mom, I don’t what this is, but it’s going to come in handy when I do!
Back in the day, 20 years ago, as a cable splicer when the work was all on copper cables, we had a similar tool called a “Little Giant”. A very heavy duty ached /bowed bracket with two string pulley-like studs on one face, one at each leg, and a pinned ratchet to crank the center threaded rod through. The purpose was to bend the heavy support strand in a V (it was a pusher, not a puller) to get a bit of slack for working on tightly lashed cables. I’m not sure it had the range of your tool, but it would probably be enough. And the ratchet is an easier tool for advancing the screw. We have several in the shop still, you’ve given me fun ideas.
I love the "destructive attack" LPL videos.. brings me back to the Ramset days. I know their expensive to make but they're always more entertaining than watching LPL pick a substandard lock in 3 seconds.
I remember "sword" fighting with my mate, me, with m6 6-D cell Maglite and his "bull worker" fitness device. We swung at each other, the Maglite buckled the bull worker and folded it in two. The Maglite had a minor scuff on the anodised coating...
My dad had one of those bull worker things, with hand grips on each side and a vinyl coated cable and some kind of spring tension inside the middle I guess
Maglites were pretty strong. I think one of their advertising slogans in certain circles was "You can beat a suspect with it all day, and it will still turn on, the very first click."
1:01 i do remember in the 90's a friend had lost his keys, called a locksmith and when he got to the club, he first put a jumper over, then hooked it on. Neither of us bothered to ask why, probably assuming it's so the metal doesn't scrape things... but it would make sense that it's for chips. Hardened rods always snap in bits.
@LockPickingLawyer there is a reason why there is no thrust bearing there is because it will slip back so having no bearing at that point friction will hold it preventing it from slipping.
Yes. Thanks for telling us you have safety glasses on. Breaking something like that is a way to get some sharp object into your eyes. And yeah...learned it from the experience. So never break (by bending) objects in your direction, break them in opposite direction from you. Or at least wear safety equipment while doing so.
I used to work at a auto auction , I removed a lot of them I would cut the plastic rubber at the end of the handle and braised the wheel and hit it with a mini sledge hammer then it will just collapse inside since that would be the weakest point of the lock. this was the early 90's
oohh I am interested to see how else that monster puller can be used to defeat some locks. That sounds like a gory good time haha. Be safe while doing it and thank you so much!
Agreed on the oil, that thinnest of thin films of it really works wonders in most cases. Though I'd suggest locks also keep dishonest people from bothering - can you circumvent it yes, but can you do it quickly, quietly etc so you are not likely to get caught doing it..
@@joelzylstra2971 I'd probably give it a rub with beeswax first just to see if it worked. If it does, that means I've got one less tool trying to transfer grease to every spot I set it down on.
This would also be much easier to turn when one end is attached to a steering wheel. Could really get some leverage, instead of fighting against yourself.
@@Dmittry yeah... When I say dry, I mean no lubrication. Also when I said "as well", I meant to convey that I understand the benefits of the bushing and that friction can *also* be reduced by oiling the threads as well.
Cool tool, i love niche specialty tools like that. Its a pulley puller on steroids with a hand crank. Anti seize on the threads will make it a bit easier as well.
@@Benoit-Pierre Yea... I have no idea what would you need to make steel so brittle. liquid N2 perheaps? I think Mythbusters had a piece on this subject.
A little lithium (automotive) grease on both sides of the washer and on the threads would make it turn lot easier but the downside is now it's covered in grease. I do this with a couple of my tools and store them in a heavy plastic bag and use latex glove when working with them.
The grease base or thickener doesn't matter, but an extreme pressure lubricant of any sort will do a lot more if applied to the threads and washer than a rolling element washer will do alone . This thing looks dry so practically any lubricant would help, but something with EP helpers like moly would be ideal.
@paulmoir4452 not true. You can have greases without Molybdenum Disulphide (what Moly stands for) in them. A multi-purpose lithium grease with no Moly in it is best when using in things like wheel bearings, and other roller type bearings. Moly grease is best used for sliding surfaces like threads, slide bearings, truck turntables, etc. The Molybdenum Disulphide actually coats and smooths out the surfaces. In sliding applications this is ok, but can damage roller bearings, causing flat-spots.
I've had one in my car almost since those things came out. The model I have now is a little thicker than what you showed, but uses the same type of key.
Not only would a thrust bearing make things easier, but also replace the cranking levers with a hex nut. So that an impact driver could be utilized, making life much easier for the operator.
@@robinsowpdx That's is exactly the problem. One could just use a cordless angle grinder to cut the steering wheel, though. Noise would be roughly the same.
I’m still going to use my Truck “Club” when parked up in secluded places, as it’s just one more little thing to dissuade potential thieves of a “quick steal”. It’s visually useful if nothing else.👍
With the advent of powerful cordless grinders, such a tool as the club buster would be unnecessary; however, the fact that it did the job quickly and quietly makes it ideal for doing the job today.
Back in the day it was the general motors (GM/Chevrolet) G body cars that were easiest to steal. They're probably the reason that "The Club" became such a successful product.
why is that funny? that literally IS the reason they are offering the club. a cheap way to stop their cars from being stolen and some good PR for them, showing that they "understand and care" about the owners.
For the newer affected models they also deployed a software fix that changes the alarm behavior and, supposedly, makes it impossible to start the car without a key in the ignition. Have to go to a dealer to get that, though, and I am suspicious of its efficacy. And even if it does work that's not going to stop people from making the attempt.
On my Kia, they bent the (Kia-supplied) club just like in the video (they could not start the car for a different reason). I figured they'd used a prybar, but wondered why it didn't mar the steering wheel.
Lubrication was mentioned by someone else, but they do make a high pressure grease that is designed for just this type of tool use. We use it for suspension tools in my line of work. However, for this type of display, it is messy and does not make for nearly as clean looking of a display.
I have one of those. It got really rusty but should clean up on the bench grinder wire wheel. I used to repo cars in the early 80's to 1991. I have a whole bunch of tools from back then. A set of 5 Ford 4 sided wiggles that would start every Ford. There were only 20 different Ford cuts. Your Pinto key could possibly start a Lincoln Town car. The only extra security was the different door keys. I have rings a door and ignition keys that we would use to find the keys and cut copies for the lenders if they didn't have keys. A nice little side hustle to provide after the repo. GM vehicles had pullers to bust off the push in tab that held in the lock cylinder. Before they switched to a retaining torx head screw. But then they invented a 1/2" socket where you would pip off the chrome eared ring, tap the socket on the end and use a breaker bar to twist the lock cylinder like the key would. Also have a few sets of auto jugglers. They weren't very effective. The Toyota and Hondas were easy. Screw a 5lb dent puller into the key cylinder and usually one slam and the cylinder came out. The in dash Ford trucks, vans, as well as early in dash Chevys were all easy. Push the tabs holding the wiring harness to the back of the ignition switch and then pop in a modified replacement switch and fire it up with a screwdriver. The modification was to hacksaw off the key part of the switch leaving the base and wiring contacts. I have a selection of them still. As well as gutted GM cylinders for starting GM cars after you pulled the cylinder. That was probably the most legal fun you could have.......until people started shooting repo men. A friend got lit up with a 22 rifle and took a round in his archilles tendon. He lived but never walked normal again. I quit after that but hung onto bags and boxes of tools. I still have key cutters and a Curtis Pocket Code Key Cutter for cutting keys from the 4 digit dealer code.
He's worried about pieces flying away and hitting his eyes or his car, but doesn't wear protective gloves. Strange choice, considering his hands are essential for his lockpicking skill.
nothing beats shear physical strength and leverage. In the past normal citizens wouldn't been able to get ahold of something like this but professional thefts would. The problem now is the amount of available knowledge, the ease on getting supplies from either legitimate or illegal vendors, and amount of people willing to commit crimes.
I used to repossess cars in the early 80's, but these were not out yet. I never encountered one during my job. But when they did come out, in my experience I realized how pathetic and useless they were. First of all, a sharp rap with a hammer... in the direction of release (parallel with the bar)... they would jump the notches. And the cylinders were just garbage. In fact I picked several of these for fun, to show how easy they were. One time, a friend had bought one for his wife... and when I was about to pick it, he said, "Well that would ruin the present for her, wouldn't it?" Well he was right, I had not thought of that... but on the flip side, by showing how bad they were, I think I was also saving the woman from any false hope her car was safe from theft.
"Pieces of this hardened steel rod can fly off and break windows" - proceeds to attempt this action with his much more fragile human body in steel-fragment-striking range.
Um, nothing ACME...we don't want the LPL to have to use the second "L" of his name, after he gets out of the hospital due to an inevitable defect in the ACME thread!
One of the first characteristics of the original Club is that a hype of sorts was built around it, so just the sight of a red bar emerging from the steering wheel of a car was supposed to deter a thief from even breaking into the car to steel it. That was until someone realized sawing the steerig wheel itself and removing the Club was o so easy. Then came the giant steel Frisbee to encapsulate the wheel, and then, stowing away a giant Frisbee was an issue.
![[1181] A TRAP For Pickers! The Clever Hines Key System Picked](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3g0-pxXD794/mqdefault.jpg)
![[1181] A TRAP For Pickers! The Clever Hines Key System Picked](/img/tr.png)
![[1422] Did I Cheat On This Challenge? (Tamper-Sealed Abus)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xUJtqvYDnkg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[1543] Legal Department Keyway Design?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NMfpJ6EzqFI/mqdefault.jpg)
Consider investing in a whole-face shield for experiments like this.
those are cheap at Home Depot…
@@theoriginalchefboyoboy6025It's always good to purchase the cheapest safety equipment.
And some impact gloves
Given LPL's overall experience and professionalism, I'm quite sure he deserves the benefit of the doubt regarding his own safety. I would be shocked if he wasn't protecting himself in a way that was totally adequate for his experiments.
Might want to wear an athletic cup or something, too. I've got a Kevlar dick protector from my time in the Army that I favor for these types of events.
Turn, turn, turn again, nice crack on one, and your wheel lock is open.
Excellent.
Okay now do it one more time to prove it wasn't a fluke
When the turning tool is the lockpick.
@@EmpressArachne Through the magic of buying two we can now prove it was not a fluke!.
@@dgo85 "Thankfully it's just a Kia, so no monetary loss."
Never underestimate the power of a good screw.
"give me a shaft long enough and i can screw everyone"
- Nicodemus
Nothing beats leverage!
That's what she said.
@@jaydawg7yes dear.
found the bard
As a mechanic, when I saw that repurposed gear puller, I knew immediately that little rod and tube stood zero chance.
I was gonna say you can probably modify a 2-jaw gear puller to do the same thing. Get a battery-powered impact wrench and make quick work of defeating these types of steering wheel locks.
Yeah but it’s not like people would use that tactic with easier ones available.
I'm more impressed he knew what a thrust bearing is, and recognized the bronze washer.
@@AnAmericanPatriot1555
Like a sawzall or something?
I bet you could take off the hooks on it with a bolt cutter, maybe.
@@joshuakarr-BibleMan No the steering wheel is easy to cut and bend. It’s designed that way for safety. The devices were discontinued in the 90s because they didn’t work. The people doing it would leave the clubs in the empty parking spot as a joke.
This is just a modified puller, like a bearing puller or pulley puller, for automotive uses. Two things. First apply oil or grease to the threads where it goes through, and to the bearing surface. That will make it way easier and help the tool last longer. Next, drape a blanket or such over the items while in use to absorb the high speed projectiles that can happen when things break. Simple additions to the help properly and safely use this tool.
Excellent advice!
Good post!
To be fair to LPL, that would make for a pretty poor video.
Yep, good advice, I use several layers of an old army tarp.
And greasing up the screw is a good idea. I think that washer is a phosphor-bronze bearing washer. But I've found it never hurts to put a little oil on those to get them started.
While the blanket is a very good idea for safety, it's not so good for a video demonstration, because we want to see what sort of mangulation the tool does to the lock.
*I happen to collect vintage locksmithing tools.*
Great icebreaker. That's almost as quotable as Leslie Neilsons: "I'm a locksmith. AND - I'm a locksmith."
He collects them from the clients who were found guilty.
@@philsharp758 hate to be a wet blanket, but LPL works Corporate law and hasn't ever touched Criminal Law; or so he's said in that one talk he gave at a Hacker's Convention.
Easily top 3 funniest lines in comedy history.
“Who are you and how did you get in here? 🤣
@@Theycallmeyoshi1 And you believe a lawyer ? That was meant as a joke.
In reality I have the upmost faith and trust in LPL.
All the best
By the way, thanks to you, Bosnian Bill and Deviant Ollam, I recently figured out how some individuals were accessing a secured area at my employer. Medeco M3 locks are only good if your latch and strike were aligned right. I showed them how one could bypass most of the entry doors with a traveler hook. Got a few weird looks but also thanked profusely and facilities is now setting things to rights. So. Thank you three.
@@bljdeep...is that supposed to be english?
@@bljdeep
... What?
@@bljdeep He is a talented locksmith. Anything else is irrelevant here! 🙃
@@LexYeen I gather that this Ollam is trans and is somewhere center-right, center, or left on some or all of their political stances. I also gather @bljdeep is deeply involved in one of those milieus that tends toward cultish tribalism in its use of language. Really trying to signal group membership and create a distinctive way of speaking that is less comprehensible to outsiders and serves to insulate members from outside source of knowledge.
@@bljdeep That's fair, I could have toned it down a bit! For what it's worth, I was trying to call out cultish behavior. I've seen, like, two lines from you. In text. I don't know what your essential qualities are as a person. But not fair for me to try to make you into an object lesson. That was selfish, and I apologize.
That took more effort than any Masterlock LPL has ever opened.
Not really. He's busted a few Masterlocks and the one-and-only thing they do right is materials. The harder steels they use (at least in their heavier locks) would have put up more fight, then likely shattered against this tool. They melt against the mere threat of a lock pick, though.
Okay, correction: They also have pretty good marketing, at least for the ignorant masses.
Only because he's not very smart. He should be turning at the ends of the handle, not the centre.
Can’t wait for the Covert Companion variant!
I hope it comes with a 14lb pelican case keychain
With a thrust bearing :P
That companion won’t be very covert
Can't wait for the MC Naily video response ...
@@Benoit-Pierrehope you know that he works for LPL now.
Man is it good to have LPL videos back on the regular. - My grandmother, may she rest in peace, always had one of these clubs in her car.
We always used one when I was a kid in Baltimore.
Join the club.
@@RealRickCox 🤣
I had one! 😅
I have a club on each vehicle, along with alarms.
I genuinely thought Kia's antitheft strategy was to make a car no one wanted to steal.
lol!
Kias are alright these days. They used to be terrible, but at one point had the bright idea of actually making decent cars.
Kia is a bit like the anti-Peugeot. Peugeot started by making decent cars and switched to making terrible cars and Kia did the opposite.
😂 I had a kia and my mom had a kia. Both sucked
@@wurfyy Except for the majority of their engines nowadays, you're correct. In the 90s, Hyundai/KIA was notorious for changing wiring harness color-coding mid-year without offering schematic updates. They did a lot of things to lower manufacturing costs just like all manufacturers do. They've always been cheap (never reliable) transportation, but their engine problems in the 2000s should've made them go the way of Daewoo.
half way through I realized I had my safety squints on waiting for it to snap
Same here. Kinda expected a real nasty snap, but thankfully that didn't happen.
its always fun to see vintage tools still in action, and working very well too
That's what I always think when I look down at myself in my bed every morning....Well, most mornings 😉
@@J-Peterson777That sounds as if your soul leaves your body to inspect it every morning 😂
You're a smart man wearing the safety glasses. That could have potentially shattered into a lot of small pieces. I probably would have been wearing gloves as well.
Even a tiny flake from the breaking, propelled into your eye, will mess up your day. Or your life.
I tell people who are loathe to bother with eye protection, "You have two so you have a chance of learning from being stupid. But you don't HAVE to learn the hard way."
I felt like I needed to be wearing safety glasses just to *watch* this video.
In Highschool I had a metalshop type class working with aluminum. Was turning a part on a lathe when a little 2mmish bit of material bounced in between my safty glasses and face getting stuck ON my eye thankfully not embedded. Oh how fun it was to sit for 2 hours waiting on the nurse because they couldn't simply get it out of my eye. IMO even cheap safty glasses are not safty glasses. Get yourself some with a gasket like trim to better protect your peepers.
"I happen to collect vintage locksmithing tools". You never let us down. :D
Very nice to see some simple mechanical engineering.
Just like computers, if you have physical access, you are as powerful as the owner.
Not exactly true! We do have secure computing devices that are secure against physical access by design! Even someone with incredible knowledge and expensive equipment will still be challenging. The only consumer device closest to most computers would be the modern Xboxes which run a hardened version of Windows and significantly hardened hardware.
@@0x225 I would like to see pictures of what you have in mind. Most PCs I have worked with can be opened in a few seconds and the componets (graphics card, storage,etc) unslotted from the motherboard very quckly.
@@David_Crayford Depends what you are talking about with physical security, there, if you are talking about removing components then yeah anything that isn't soldered is trivial but some machines do have memory inside of the SOC package and the SOC being soldered to the SOC that connections soldered storage etc. It is very easy to destroy, yes. I am talking about tamper resistant machines where it keeps the information secure and prevents most if not all tampering attempts and may even leave physical evidence behind or logs such as in high security workstations which can wipe all encryption keys when tampered with.
Nice Click out of Shaft, and we got this open.
click on 1... oh there's only one.
Lpl
Lol didn't do it a 2nd time so was this attempt a fluke..
The first time I saw a Club defeated was a local news program. They took a hack saw, cut through the steering wheel and pulled the Club off. Steering wheel has a metal core. Still drivable with a split steering wheel. Took like ten seconds.
I'm confused mate; is that steering wheel lock called a "club" ?
@@_ninjas555 Yes
@@_ninjas555yes it's called a "club". Popular in the 80's before advanced car alarms.
@@_ninjas555Yes, it is an old name for those things.
I'm not sure of that particular brand but early versions were marked under the name The Club. Perhaps because it would be better protection to beat some one with it than lock your car and walk away.@@_ninjas555
Some 25 years ago there was a TV show, where two experts on car security were tasked to move 10 cars from one parking lot to another. Few cars have devices like this, and it either had plastic parts of it was mounted to a steering wheel made of plastic. All of them were simply yanked out with bare hands, mostly without damage to the cars.
The only car which stood the challenge was old Lada, because it was broken, and could not start.
I'm sure the tool is easier to turn when used on a club that's installed on a steering wheel. You wouldn't be fighting the leverage of having to hold tool and club at same time.
Less awkward yes, easier, not really. He is just holding it steady, the bench is taking the reaction force.
@@--_DJ_-- But you could use both hands too.
@@chaos.corner This is true.
Underrated comment - the only disadvantage of it being in a car is the lack of space to turn the lever. You would probably need to be off to one side leaning in - on the other hand that might be safer from flying fragments.
Nice video. Kool tool. A light lubricant on the threads will make it a little easier. A full face shield and gloves will protect you more. I'm a retired civil engineer and have seen some nasty chinesium failures. Good Luck, Rick
I think these clubs are made from koreanite!
Exactly, lubricate the threads and the washer, or basically anywhere where there's friction on something like that, you'll be amazed at the difference
Please do another destructive series, it's so entertaining especially when you have such a calm demeanor! great video, as alwasy, thanks.
a hacksaw on the steering wheel was also common. Those clubs seemed like a great idea and rapidly went out of style once people realized that car thieves didn't care about keeping the steering wheel pristine.
The idea was never to prevent theft entirely, as with any security measure. It's only to make for a more time-consuming and hassle-prone target.
The hacksaw method was more popular among those to whom destructive bypass techniques were more profitable than nondestructive.
@@LexYeen - they were typically breaking a window to gain entry, so what’s a little more destruction gonna hurt?
@@stevebabiak6997when the car next to it doesn't have a club and you want to joyride only an idiot is going to want to deal with cutting the steering wheel
@@RiceCakeWtf - the window will get broken either way …
Back in th the day when the club was poplar, supposedly some thieves used freon or dry ice to freeze the lock mechanism and then hit it with a hammer and it would just pop apart, they would also just cut a notch in the steering wheel.
The club was made of wood?
Here, they used to bend the steering wheel to remove the Club.
@@Slicerwizardat least it wasn't balsa.
Same method allegedly used for "D" locks
Scary watching that bend right towards the users face. TY LPL for your bravery!
Probably could benefit from a towel over the top if not filming for an audience.
I reckon the people stealing Hyundais are also familiar with catalytic converter theft. A cordless reciprocating saw is probably their tool of choice. Clearly not the professional's choice! Keep up the good work! These videos are addicting.
I saw one of those Club-type steering wheel locks in the wild the other day. I was amazed they still made them. I was doubly amazed that people still bought them.
Thanks for the video, I usually learn something and always enjoy watching!
In 2003 I had gone for a run and only taken my door key with me. Locked other things in the trunk. Someone was watching while I close the vehicle and stole everything. Including my keys for the club.
The AA guy that came did a much easier destructive method. The cast metal housing around the key is very cheap casting. He hit it 3 times with a hammer and it completely shattered and came apart.
I used a similar tool as a helicopter mechanic in the Army to, albeit smaller, to remove the engine input seals on the E/UH-60A/E/L/Q. Instead of the hook was two pieces of safety wire looped behind the forward rotating half of the seal. The threaded part was then placed against the input flange retaining nut rethreaded onto the input pinon, then a socket place over it to protect the pinion and nut from damage. Then slowly turn the threaded rod and voila.
I have one of those, didn’t know what it was. Took it from gramps garage when he passed. Said to my mom, I don’t what this is, but it’s going to come in handy when I do!
Well after this vid I reckon it won't be handy as a lock anymore.
Now a bludgeon for dealing with surprise unwanted guests, however....
Back in the day, 20 years ago, as a cable splicer when the work was all on copper cables, we had a similar tool called a “Little Giant”. A very heavy duty ached /bowed bracket with two string pulley-like studs on one face, one at each leg, and a pinned ratchet to crank the center threaded rod through. The purpose was to bend the heavy support strand in a V (it was a pusher, not a puller) to get a bit of slack for working on tightly lashed cables. I’m not sure it had the range of your tool, but it would probably be enough. And the ratchet is an easier tool for advancing the screw. We have several in the shop still, you’ve given me fun ideas.
I love the "destructive attack" LPL videos.. brings me back to the Ramset days. I know their expensive to make but they're always more entertaining than watching LPL pick a substandard lock in 3 seconds.
When he said vintage locksmithing tools , I was thinking he is going to show something small, then at 0:39 he pulls out the big boy lol
Aaah, videos on a regular basis again, love it
Masterlock: *I'M OPEN! Just keep that away from me.*
I remember "sword" fighting with my mate, me, with m6 6-D cell Maglite and his "bull worker" fitness device. We swung at each other, the Maglite buckled the bull worker and folded it in two. The Maglite had a minor scuff on the anodised coating...
My dad had one of those bull worker things, with hand grips on each side and a vinyl coated cable and some kind of spring tension inside the middle I guess
Yep, 100% monkey metal.@@dorhocyn3
Maglites were pretty strong. I think one of their advertising slogans in certain circles was "You can beat a suspect with it all day, and it will still turn on, the very first click."
I have one of those 6 cell maglites.
Bought it in the mid 90s. Still has the original krypton bulb.
Completely out of pocket, but at first glance the "Club Buster" looks like some sort of medieval torture device lol
Great demonstration thanks.
I love how you’re stating to be terrified of shrapnel yet hold the thing with your bare hand.
1:01 i do remember in the 90's a friend had lost his keys, called a locksmith and when he got to the club, he first put a jumper over, then hooked it on. Neither of us bothered to ask why, probably assuming it's so the metal doesn't scrape things... but it would make sense that it's for chips. Hardened rods always snap in bits.
That's how a professional would do it. Also might want some gloves.
@LockPickingLawyer there is a reason why there is no thrust bearing there is because it will slip back so having no bearing at that point friction will hold it preventing it from slipping.
But that's what the giant nut is for to prevent back sliding
... although I'm impressed that a "lawyer" even knows what a thrust bearing is!
I've used similar tools with a bearing on them before, no slippage. The angle of the thread is too shallow for that to happen.
This is the first time I see/hear of this tool... Very informative and destructive as always!
"A nice little click out of one there..." takes on a whole new meaning!
Yes. Thanks for telling us you have safety glasses on. Breaking something like that is a way to get some sharp object into your eyes. And yeah...learned it from the experience. So never break (by bending) objects in your direction, break them in opposite direction from you. Or at least wear safety equipment while doing so.
Gloves don't hurt either. That made me nervous. Those hands are worth protecting.
I used to work at a auto auction , I removed a lot of them I would cut the plastic rubber at the end of the handle and braised the wheel and hit it with a mini sledge hammer then it will just collapse inside since that would be the weakest point of the lock. this was the early 90's
Love your work bro 🤙🏿
oohh I am interested to see how else that monster puller can be used to defeat some locks. That sounds like a gory good time haha. Be safe while doing it and thank you so much!
A little bit of oil on the threads and washer will make it work a whole lot easier. Love the videos. Proof that locks only keep honest people honest.
What did he say? Thrust bearing?
Agreed on the oil, that thinnest of thin films of it really works wonders in most cases. Though I'd suggest locks also keep dishonest people from bothering - can you circumvent it yes, but can you do it quickly, quietly etc so you are not likely to get caught doing it..
I would suggest the same kind of oil used on the threads of turnbuckles. It's a very viscous, sticky lube designed for high pressures.
@@mytube001oil wouldn’t be the choice at all. A high quality lithium grease or nothing.
@@joelzylstra2971 I'd probably give it a rub with beeswax first just to see if it worked. If it does, that means I've got one less tool trying to transfer grease to every spot I set it down on.
The 'bronze washer' is called a bushing - it's essentially acting as a solid lubricant.
This would also be much easier to turn when one end is attached to a steering wheel. Could really get some leverage, instead of fighting against yourself.
The threads looked dry to me as well, was that just my monitor?
@@dougaltolan3017It's not about making threads wet. It's about reducing friction between handle and frame.
@@Dmittry yeah...
When I say dry, I mean no lubrication.
Also when I said "as well", I meant to convey that I understand the benefits of the bushing and that friction can *also* be reduced by oiling the threads as well.
bronze seems like a weird choice to me, babbitt would have been much better.
Cool tool, i love niche specialty tools like that. Its a pulley puller on steroids with a hand crank. Anti seize on the threads will make it a bit easier as well.
I still can't figure out why these videos are so satisfying to watch.
😉
Back in the 80s, they would use a can of Freon and freeze the cast metal lock section and shatter it with a hammer.
Ah, ozone hole mystery solved.
Funny fairy tale, but unfortunately ... Fairy tale.
Back in the 80s, bring your own steering wheel and remove the original; one nut
@@Benoit-Pierre Yea... I have no idea what would you need to make steel so brittle. liquid N2 perheaps? I think Mythbusters had a piece on this subject.
@@ogi22If it was a zinc alloy, you can chill it and kill it. Steel is more difficult.
A little lithium (automotive) grease on both sides of the washer and on the threads would make it turn lot easier but the downside is now it's covered in grease. I do this with a couple of my tools and store them in a heavy plastic bag and use latex glove when working with them.
A rub down the threads with a crayon or candle, like with sticky zippers would help lubricate without the mess. Dry silicone sprays work ok, too.
The grease base or thickener doesn't matter, but an extreme pressure lubricant of any sort will do a lot more if applied to the threads and washer than a rolling element washer will do alone . This thing looks dry so practically any lubricant would help, but something with EP helpers like moly would be ideal.
Lithium grease is ok, but Moly grease is better for this kind of application.
@@jaredbawden6707Moly describes the contents of the lubricant while lithium describes the thickener. They are not related.
@paulmoir4452 not true. You can have greases without Molybdenum Disulphide (what Moly stands for) in them. A multi-purpose lithium grease with no Moly in it is best when using in things like wheel bearings, and other roller type bearings. Moly grease is best used for sliding surfaces like threads, slide bearings, truck turntables, etc. The Molybdenum Disulphide actually coats and smooths out the surfaces. In sliding applications this is ok, but can damage roller bearings, causing flat-spots.
what i’ve learned the most from lpl, is that the right tools make a world of a difference.
Thank you for wearing safety glasses and letting us know. That was all I was thinking as you started to try and break it.
Click out of 1…. Click out of 1……SNAP out of 1….. and there ya go.
Like many pullers and spring compressors, a finger full of grease across the threads helps keep the threads healthy, cool and easy to turn.
I needed this for my ball joints on my rust belt wrx.
I've had one in my car almost since those things came out. The model I have now is a little thicker than what you showed, but uses the same type of key.
Not only would a thrust bearing make things easier, but also replace the cranking levers with a hex nut. So that an impact driver could be utilized, making life much easier for the operator.
Oh man that would take one second with a good impact driver
Cordless tools were much less of a thing back then.
Given how long the threads are that would require an extremely deep socket.
Rather than modifying this tool I'd suggest making a new "up to date" version (although now cordless saws and grinders exist they are obsolete anyway)
@@robinsowpdx That's is exactly the problem. One could just use a cordless angle grinder to cut the steering wheel, though. Noise would be roughly the same.
The bronze thrust washer is sufficient if all threads and washer are thinly greased 😊
It's April Fools soon and this channel is making me excited about it. 🤣
I’m still going to use my Truck “Club” when parked up in secluded places, as it’s just one more little thing to dissuade potential thieves of a “quick steal”. It’s visually useful if nothing else.👍
With the advent of powerful cordless grinders, such a tool as the club buster would be unnecessary; however, the fact that it did the job quickly and quietly makes it ideal for doing the job today.
Funny that Hyundai is offering an anti-theft device for their cars that are very easy to steal.
Back in the day it was the general motors (GM/Chevrolet) G body cars that were easiest to steal. They're probably the reason that "The Club" became such a successful product.
why is that funny? that literally IS the reason they are offering the club. a cheap way to stop their cars from being stolen and some good PR for them, showing that they "understand and care" about the owners.
Kia literally provided them as a bandaid fix. Not really that funny tbh. Mostly sad.
For the newer affected models they also deployed a software fix that changes the alarm behavior and, supposedly, makes it impossible to start the car without a key in the ignition. Have to go to a dealer to get that, though, and I am suspicious of its efficacy. And even if it does work that's not going to stop people from making the attempt.
@@wr1ght939 this lock is the most durable of all the locks i have seen on his channel, how is this an "bandaid fix"?
Another great vid from the LPL
I would definitely that most of us would love to see your vintage tool collection shown on your channel.
To be fair most criminals just hacksaw the streeringwheel bend it remove the club.
On my Kia, they bent the (Kia-supplied) club just like in the video (they could not start the car for a different reason). I figured they'd used a prybar, but wondered why it didn't mar the steering wheel.
Now I want to see him open different locks with his vintage tools
Edge of the seat stuff. Excellent job
Great video!
Now put it back together.
That was good
Alas, plastic deformation has begun. 'Tis too late for the wee stick.
If it were on your steering wheel, would it bend your steering wheel too?
The way he demonstrates it, no. It's pulling the center away from the wheel more than it's pushing the outsides away
No, because the lock-buster isn't putting any force on the wheel, just on the 'Club'.
probably not
the notches are bending on a concave shape so it is actually loosening from the wheel
No, the tool is pressing against the lock only. The hooks to the wheel would just rotate around their point of contact with the wheel
Lubrication was mentioned by someone else, but they do make a high pressure grease that is designed for just this type of tool use. We use it for suspension tools in my line of work. However, for this type of display, it is messy and does not make for nearly as clean looking of a display.
I have one of those. It got really rusty but should clean up on the bench grinder wire wheel.
I used to repo cars in the early 80's to 1991. I have a whole bunch of tools from back then. A set of 5 Ford 4 sided wiggles that would start every Ford. There were only 20 different Ford cuts. Your Pinto key could possibly start a Lincoln Town car. The only extra security was the different door keys. I have rings a door and ignition keys that we would use to find the keys and cut copies for the lenders if they didn't have keys. A nice little side hustle to provide after the repo.
GM vehicles had pullers to bust off the push in tab that held in the lock cylinder. Before they switched to a retaining torx head screw. But then they invented a 1/2" socket where you would pip off the chrome eared ring, tap the socket on the end and use a breaker bar to twist the lock cylinder like the key would.
Also have a few sets of auto jugglers. They weren't very effective.
The Toyota and Hondas were easy. Screw a 5lb dent puller into the key cylinder and usually one slam and the cylinder came out.
The in dash Ford trucks, vans, as well as early in dash Chevys were all easy. Push the tabs holding the wiring harness to the back of the ignition switch and then pop in a modified replacement switch and fire it up with a screwdriver. The modification was to hacksaw off the key part of the switch leaving the base and wiring contacts. I have a selection of them still. As well as gutted GM cylinders for starting GM cars after you pulled the cylinder.
That was probably the most legal fun you could have.......until people started shooting repo men. A friend got lit up with a 22 rifle and took a round in his archilles tendon. He lived but never walked normal again.
I quit after that but hung onto bags and boxes of tools. I still have key cutters and a Curtis Pocket Code Key Cutter for cutting keys from the 4 digit dealer code.
I wonder how Bosnian bill is doing
Retired from UA-cam ... Forgot the reason.
@@Benoit-Pierre I think it was his hobby and ended up taking too much time away from family.
@@Benoit-Pierreprobably UA-cam……
@@Benoit-Pierre He and his wife were friends with a couple who passed away so Bill and Mrs. Bosnian took in their two (?) children.
I miss Bill.
Looks like a torture device that the Riddler would use.
Whoever invented threaded fasteners and rods is quite a genius. They literally keep everything human-made together or in this case apart.
Gloves and a face shield my man! Your hands are precious.
It’s easy to cut the steering wheel and just toss it out on the street.
Name checks out 😂lol
How would you steer tho?
@@chdreturns With the steering wheel you just cut to take the club off. You toss the club out the window, not the wheel!
Can I ask what you were doing in January 2021?
@@chdreturnsDude... You just cut a slit in the wheel so you can slip the club off. You don't cut the steering wheel off.
He's worried about pieces flying away and hitting his eyes or his car, but doesn't wear protective gloves. Strange choice, considering his hands are essential for his lockpicking skill.
Hands are a bit less fragile than eyes.
I’d imagine he wouldn’t lose a finger, just get a few cuts if something went wrong.
Have you ever cut your hand before? I have and now I can never become a locksmith
LPL: I have some other ideas for how to use this
MasterLock: Please god no
nothing beats shear physical strength and leverage. In the past normal citizens wouldn't been able to get ahold of something like this but professional thefts would. The problem now is the amount of available knowledge, the ease on getting supplies from either legitimate or illegal vendors, and amount of people willing to commit crimes.
Dozens of videos online showing how to pop them off without damaging the steering wheel, by car thieves.
Including one by LPL, on this exact same lock
@@TheEmeraldMenOfficial That's possibly where I've seen it as well lol
I may need more coffee....
I used to repossess cars in the early 80's, but these were not out yet. I never encountered one during my job. But when they did come out, in my experience I realized how pathetic and useless they were. First of all, a sharp rap with a hammer... in the direction of release (parallel with the bar)... they would jump the notches. And the cylinders were just garbage. In fact I picked several of these for fun, to show how easy they were. One time, a friend had bought one for his wife... and when I was about to pick it, he said, "Well that would ruin the present for her, wouldn't it?" Well he was right, I had not thought of that... but on the flip side, by showing how bad they were, I think I was also saving the woman from any false hope her car was safe from theft.
"Pieces of this hardened steel rod can fly off and break windows" - proceeds to attempt this action with his much more fragile human body in steel-fragment-striking range.
Excellent video!😸
Cool! I really enjoy every LPL video.
"This is the LockBreakingLawyer"
"Nice crack out of 1"
"4 is bending"
for some reason i was expecting a junk yard steering wheel on the desk
Love the videos
Whoa, this is heavy, Doc!
Finally, a lockpicking method I know I'd be able to use.
Man, that's a pretty cooling doodad! Always wear your safety glasses. Best advice Norm Abram ever gave.
What a well designed tool. I would have used an acme thread but I suppose it was designed around what was readily available. It certainly works.
Um, nothing ACME...we don't want the LPL to have to use the second "L" of his name, after he gets out of the hospital due to an inevitable defect in the ACME thread!
Says a lot about the world we've retreated back to when 'Club' type devices are making a resurgence.
I use something like this to remove my rusty brake rotors. Works like a charm.
A battery powered grinder would even defeat a club easily.
One of the first characteristics of the original Club is that a hype of sorts was built around it, so just the sight of a red bar emerging from the steering wheel of a car was supposed to deter a thief from even breaking into the car to steel it. That was until someone realized sawing the steerig wheel itself and removing the Club was o so easy. Then came the giant steel Frisbee to encapsulate the wheel, and then, stowing away a giant Frisbee was an issue.
Glad you mentioned eye protection, started to worry there
"I happen to collect vintage lock smithing tools", yes, we should have known that.