I didn't realize the cradle could come separately! This makes it way easier to take out the diff! Did you take out any of the torque tube bolts on the engine side? Not sure if you mention that.
No I didn't need to take out any of the torque tube bolts. You can tilt the whole assembly down, including the engine, far enough to remove the diff. Just don't go too far down since the back of the engine can get into the firewall.
I need to tackle my clutch again. Last time I dropped the driveline all together with the cradle, but this time maybe I'll drop the cradle separately to make the driveline more maneuverable to get in and out. I like your brake line reroute as well, I might do that while I have it apart. That was one of my least favorite parts of doing the clutch. I don't understand why the brake lines didn't route like that to begin with instead of the spaghetti mess around the axles.
Thank you! Is your trans the auto or 6 speed? If it's stick shift I've got video here of replacing the dual seals at 18 mins in this video ua-cam.com/video/kFArLNbv8qs/v-deo.html
I've never had to change one of those but now you have me curious so I'll have to look it up. I know it's got a very different setup than the six speed.
@@xpsgarage I think it’s actually going to be a lil easier (hope I don’t regret saying that lol). Once I separate the diff from the trans. Just drill a screw directly in the output seal and pry off carefully. The interesting part will be trying to find some kind of long driver to slip over that output shaft to re-seat the new one.
@@GeekyJay79 That doesn't look like a bad job. Did you watch this video? ua-cam.com/video/Vjvqs3ic8u8/v-deo.html He used PVC to drive the seal in. I thought that plate that goes between the auto and the diff had the trans seal in it but it looks like it's just to seal the diff. Good luck!
Great video!! Thanks for the details!
No problem!
Good stuff! Thanks for the schooling.
I didn't realize the cradle could come separately! This makes it way easier to take out the diff! Did you take out any of the torque tube bolts on the engine side? Not sure if you mention that.
No I didn't need to take out any of the torque tube bolts. You can tilt the whole assembly down, including the engine, far enough to remove the diff. Just don't go too far down since the back of the engine can get into the firewall.
I need to tackle my clutch again. Last time I dropped the driveline all together with the cradle, but this time maybe I'll drop the cradle separately to make the driveline more maneuverable to get in and out. I like your brake line reroute as well, I might do that while I have it apart. That was one of my least favorite parts of doing the clutch. I don't understand why the brake lines didn't route like that to begin with instead of the spaghetti mess around the axles.
Good stuff man! I’m replacing trans output seal in the morning. Basically same diff removal procedure to access it :-) thx for the vid
Thank you! Is your trans the auto or 6 speed? If it's stick shift I've got video here of replacing the dual seals at 18 mins in this video ua-cam.com/video/kFArLNbv8qs/v-deo.html
@@xpsgarage auto
I've never had to change one of those but now you have me curious so I'll have to look it up. I know it's got a very different setup than the six speed.
@@xpsgarage I think it’s actually going to be a lil easier (hope I don’t regret saying that lol). Once I separate the diff from the trans. Just drill a screw directly in the output seal and pry off carefully. The interesting part will be trying to find some kind of long driver to slip over that output shaft to re-seat the new one.
@@GeekyJay79 That doesn't look like a bad job. Did you watch this video? ua-cam.com/video/Vjvqs3ic8u8/v-deo.html He used PVC to drive the seal in. I thought that plate that goes between the auto and the diff had the trans seal in it but it looks like it's just to seal the diff. Good luck!
Nice job! Appreciate the video as I'm doing this soon myself. Do you know how high off the ground the car was? From rocker to floor?
Measured from the puck holes, the back was 17" to the frame and the front was 15"