The bowl of fruit image on the right (normal development) is not less sharp because of stand development to the other negative, as you claim. It is simply out of focus because the camera or subject, or both, moved out of focus. You should try again and lock your camera, subject, and tripod down completely. What your refer to as a halo effect due to higher accutance is in fact the edge effect of Rodinal. And once again, the image on the right is out of focus, this time even more noticeably.
I do a sort of hybrid "stand" development. I use Rodinal 1:100, I agitate normally for maybe five minutes, then move to two minute intervals and finally 3 minute intervals. Usually about 20 to 22 minutes is enough time with this scheme. You do see the sharpening effect and the speed increase with this method but you avoid issues with insufficient agitation in true stand development.
Thanks for watching! It definitely is a bit odd to have that much free time while processing but I’ve gotten into audiobooks and it definitely helps catch up on the audiobooks haha
I try to avoid stand developing 35mm but 120 and 4x5 is amazing. Idk what it is with sprocket holes but they always seem to give my film streaks. On larger formats that's not really an issue plus you can notice the sharpness and less of the grain.
Yeah I’ve noticed that too! I don’t think it works as well on 35mm. Film is film of course but each format reacts a little differently and I think that’s an often overlooked quality.
Yes, bromide drag (although there is no bromide in Rodinal) has been my problem with 35mm film. Not necessarily very bad in every case, but once you start looking for it, it is often there. But I could add more agitation into my routine, which might help.
The bowl of fruit image on the right (normal development) is not less sharp because of stand development to the other negative, as you claim. It is simply out of focus because the camera or subject, or both, moved out of focus. You should try again and lock your camera, subject, and tripod down completely. What your refer to as a halo effect due to higher accutance is in fact the edge effect of Rodinal. And once again, the image on the right is out of focus, this time even more noticeably.
I really appreciate your clear, "no nonsense" video style. Thank you.
I used stand development on films that I may not know the developing times, it works perfectly. Thank you for sharing!!!
Yeah it works pretty well for that! You’re welcome thanks for watching!
I do a sort of hybrid "stand" development. I use Rodinal 1:100, I agitate normally for maybe five minutes, then move to two minute intervals and finally 3 minute intervals. Usually about 20 to 22 minutes is enough time with this scheme. You do see the sharpening effect and the speed increase with this method but you avoid issues with insufficient agitation in true stand development.
Stand developing is fun sometimes. I’d like to try it for landscapes.
Excellent. Thank you for sharing!
I'm really enjoying your channel. Very clear and to the point as well as explaining things I've some times wondered about.
Thanks! Yeah trying to make a video for all those unanswered film questions.
I shot a couple of 120 rolls few days ago wit low light and I am going to try it tomorrow to get the much of them!! I am quite exited!!
Can’t wait to hear how it turns out! I like stand for low light stuff. Definitely helps!
Never had that much spare time when processing film but I appreciate the commentary and methodology. Good video.👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for watching! It definitely is a bit odd to have that much free time while processing but I’ve gotten into audiobooks and it definitely helps catch up on the audiobooks haha
Going to use stand development for expired film, thanks for clear instructions👍🏻
Love your videos, straight to the point and informative
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it
I try to avoid stand developing 35mm but 120 and 4x5 is amazing. Idk what it is with sprocket holes but they always seem to give my film streaks. On larger formats that's not really an issue plus you can notice the sharpness and less of the grain.
Yeah I’ve noticed that too! I don’t think it works as well on 35mm. Film is film of course but each format reacts a little differently and I think that’s an often overlooked quality.
I do semi stand and get zero visible bromide drag. I agitate thoroughly initially, then once each half hour. Most dev times are 1 or 1.5 hrs.
Yes, bromide drag (although there is no bromide in Rodinal) has been my problem with 35mm film. Not necessarily very bad in every case, but once you start looking for it, it is often there. But I could add more agitation into my routine, which might help.
i used rodinal way back in the 1980 s
nice video, I will for sure try some stand development soon ^^
It gives a really unique look! It’s more distinct in 120 and 35mm. Enjoy!
did you ever try push 1 or 2 stops with stand development method?
How does this compare to the Zone System or BTZS?