Getting the Best From: Rodinal Part 1
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- Опубліковано 2 чер 2023
- Have you tried it?
Rodinal (now sold as Adox Adonal or Bellini RDL), the longest manufactured developer in the world! Well over 100 years of use and there's a reason for it. I started using it in the early 1970s and still have it in my darkroom over fifty years later.
Don't believe the naysayers, this is a gem of a developer that can make your photographs stand out from the crowd. In this "Getting the Best From" series I will show you how to get the very best from this amazing liquid!
In part one, I describe why I love this developer and how to do basic development that makes awesome glowing negatives which scan really well and print beautifully.
I've been asked about my alkaline-stop bath. Alkali-Stop is a unique product formulated by Barry Thornton around 2002 and refined by Peter Hogan. It's part of my Staining Developer System here (pictorialplanet.square.site). It stops development in seconds while keeping the process much nearer the ph of the developer. This helps protect the film (or paper) emulsion from the large ph shift when using an acid stop, encourages maximum stain with all pyro developers which prefer an alkaline environment, and protects the alkalinity of your alkaline fix should you use one.
Part 2 here: • Getting the Best From:...
John Finch
Pictorial Planet
www.pictorialplanet.com
Author or The Art of Black and White Developing
Rodinal is one of the three developers I always have in my lab, the others are HC-110 and DD-X.
There is a beautiful translation of Rodinal in Chinese from 1900s, 雷電露, which pronounced like Rodinal, and the meaning is dew drops from thunder and lighting, literally.
Thanks for your comment. "Dew drops from thunder and lightning", fascinating!
Rodinal is amazing. It is a staple in my darkroom. I also use Arista Premium which is I would say close to D-76...not quite, but close. But for grain control, and the glow, it has to be Rodinal.
Hc-110 is my go to developer but recently started experimenting more with rodinal because of its long shelf life and stand developing capabilities.
This channel is so underrated. Thanks for this amazing content. So much passion and knowledge here!
Thank you, Michal!
I have learned so much from this channel. It’s crazy. I am so thankful for it.
Great information! I’m so glad the algorithm brought me to your channel! Also, you have a very soothing voice.
Thanks for another great episode!
Thank you!
Absolutely gorgeous shot and print
Thank you
Welcome back! Good to see you John
Thanks, Dav!
Absolutely beautiful and incredibly educational
You're very kind
I love i love i love !! That's literally the best tutorial about Rodinal developmenti see, your voice is like Bob Ross, nice and smoothly, sooo good explained ! Thank you :)
Great video. On paper looks so good! Amazing job!
Thanks Jacopo!
Marvelous as always. Looking forward to the next episodes in this series. Thank you!
Thank you!
Your channel doesnt answer about the Life, but it answers all questions about b&w film photography
Thanks John, very useful.
Thanks, Mike!
Great and informative video John. I have recently been put onto Rodinal 1+50 and so far am very impressed !
Good to hear, John. Hope you enjoy the series.
Thanks, really nice to get an in-depth tutorial on this excellent developer, which I also love with FP4+
Thanks, Rupert! FP4 coming up tomorrow when I will show dilutions and their effects.
Missed your videos !!! Welcome back. My daughter just gave me a Zeiss IKON 6x9 so right on time for some developing
Perfect, this is just the developer you need. Look for Adox Adonal which is the new name for it.
Absolutely great video. My hands started itching and wanted immediately to dive into my darkroom to put to practice what I learned here. Thanks!
Thanks, Ralph! I know the feeling!!
Another brilliant video, many thanks!!
Thank you, Stuart!
This brought back memories. Its been nearly 40 years since I used Agfa Rodinal.
Very nice developer and still useful after so long. Its unique look and long lasting properties keep it in my darkroom.
Love your videos, John. You are exactly what the silver printer needs.
No waffle, just straight in and get on with it. Fact after Fact, and a beautiful end result, thank you for being you, and sharing your vast experience and knowledge with us.
👍👍👍
Thank you, Kit!
Fantastic contribution! I am often using rodinal, but have found myself too tight on time to really deeper investigate the results of the negatives vs. other developers. I really look forward to the semi-stand video on this -- that is my main approach these days.
Cheers, A!
Rodinal @ 1-50 + Foma 100 is my go to - love it.
Excellent! I’m a Minox 8X11 subminiature shooter, so sharpness and fine grain are both important to me. My favourite film is ADOX HR-50 developed in ADOX HR developer, although Ilfotec DD-X works well too.
Thank you, Ian!
Sometimes I use Rodinal(Compard R09 oneshot) developer, but I'm not always happy with the result. I watched this video and realized that the problem is on my side and not on the developer's side. Today I will develop one FP4 and one HP5 film. Maybe because of the light condition, the results won't be great, but I will check some nuances with dilution and rhythm of mixing.
I bought your book a couple weeks ago. A wonderful read with a wealth of information. Now I have a place to study and gain knowledge for film development. Thank you!
Thank you for buying my book and your kind words. Good luck with the films!
I can attest to the shelf life of rodinal. I found a sealed 1975 manufacture bottle of rodinal in a thrift store about 3 or 4 years ago. It has crystals, it has sediment, and when diluted it's quite a bit darker than the one in your video, but it also has a pink tint to it.
..And it works. It works just about perfectly and I couldn't be happier with my purchase.
Awesome! Great story of the longevity of this developer.
Thank you very much for this excellent video John! I love Rodinal and haven't used any other developer since my dad taught me how to develop film (with Rodinal of course) when I was a kid, back in the 1970s. My favorite dilution is 1+50 at 18C and I always agitate the entire 1st minute and then 3 times every minute. Regarding the grain my experience is that it makes a tremendous difference if I develop at 18C as said in all the old Agfa recipe books from the 1950s or at 20C like with Kodak or Ilford developers. With 18C I get nice and smooth grain whereas it is much more prominent at 20C. My guess that many people would complain less about Rodinal if they just would use it at 18C instead of 20C. However, there is one exception where I use Rodinal at 20C: when I develop pictures with overexposure solarization. When I develop at 20C I will get a negative with a white sun in Rodinal 1+50 at 20C whereas at 18C I won't, both pictures exposed in the same way.
I mention 18c in my book when talking about Rodinal. I should do a video on it. Yes, 1+50 is a good compromise but why not try 1+75 as this will give you the glow but with better acutance. By the way, your tip in solarisation is well received, thank you!
Wonderful John, glad to see back, This will interest me as I use Rodinal with FP4 and I have been considering trying stand development. I have also bought some Metol and Sodium Sulphate to make D23 with instructions from your book, I may hold off just now though 😊
I hope you purchased sodium sulphite not sulphate?
@@PictorialPlanet yes I did 😁 from Nick and Trick sorry for the confusion
Just checking. It's an easy mistake to make and makes poor D23 ;)
Hi John, good to see you back again in 2023. I'm currently sitting on a bottle of Adox Adonal which must be over 10 years old. I don't know if Adox swapped the product name back and forth between Adonal and Rodinal a few times over the years.
My bottle of Adonal is nearly full as I only ever processed 3 films in it with mixed results - FP4 looked good, Pan F was very low contrast which surprised me due to its reputation as a high contrast film and a roll of Rollei Retro 80s which didn't reach anywhere near its rated speed.(I've read elsewhere that Retro 80s was also sold as an ISO 25 film which would have made my attempts at using it nearly 2 stops underexposed). In all cases films were developed at 1 + 25 dilution.
My Adonal is very dark and I don't know if there are any crystals in the bottle. I have plenty of Pan F, (about 3 years past expiry but always refrigerated), and will give it another go according to your method above. Assuming 20 C developing temp.
Yes, 20C. I saw Adonal a while ago too. Then Adox seemed to use the Rodinal name and now it supposedly back to Adonal. Trademarks are clearly more complex than I imagined.
About your Adonal. Sounds like it might not be very good. Can you get a new bottle? The PANF should have been good. Rodinal and PANF are an excellent match 1+50, 10 mins, Ilford agitation at 20C. One thing, process the PANF pretty soon after shooting. It begins loosing the latent image after a pretty short while (a few weeks). I make a point of developing it within a few days.
The Angustura Bitters of Analogue Photography! (glad to see it getting the full Pictorial Planet treatment)
Ha! I like that description, Tristan. Cheers 🍻
The legend that rodinol dont go bad i found out is true i just develop a roll using a bottle of rodinol over 40 years old and it looks grand
Four year old Rodinal is nothing - I found a 500ml glass bottle in the closet I bought in the early 70's. - IT STILL WORKS, AS IT SHOULD! - kinda a surprise but a pleasant one. Thanks for the video series.
Great news, James! What a terrific developer!!
Wonderful video John. Have been espousing the virtues of D23 and replenisher at my Camera Club & been having a lot of great sucess with it on all my films.
That's great to hear, Dave. That's a lovely developer. Have you tried it with HP5? Nice combination, especially with 35mm.
@@PictorialPlanet The fellow club member uses HP5+ for his project exclusively an we did a roll of both 120 and 35mm in the D23. He loves the way they came out so I have made him a bottle of D23 + replenisher for him to use at home. We are bringing to life the film section at the club who have a unused fully kitted out darkroom.
This is great, Dave! Kudos to you for encouraging film photography at the club . I'm chuffed you're doing that!!
I have been using Rodinal (1+100 semi-stand, usually 50 minutes, water stop, Ilford rapid fixer) for a few months (and maybe 10 or 12 films) now. Decided to try it because it's extremely economical (a 15€ bottle will literally develop a 100 120 films, even more of 35mm), lasts a long time and stand development involves little work which suits me well because I'm both cheap and lazy. Found out I really like the look too, especially for 120 film, so I'll be using it in the future.
You've picked a very good developer. I agree with everything you say and love this with 120 film. I show 35mm because most film users have those cameras but Rodinal with FP4 in 120 is magical.
since about 40 years I'm using Rodinal, it's easy to have one in the shelf and it often doesn't matter how old it is. One time I had issues because it was too old and it was only a rest of about 50ml in the bottle. I also had best results with Rodinal an I use it mostly with Fomapan 100 which is a perfect combination.
Many thanks for this video, yours are really the best one can watch to learn such a huge mass of knowledge
Thanks, @Martin-F5. Yes, we should all have this on our shelf.
@@PictorialPlanet it also is very helpful if you have a cold, or a headache
Thank you so much! It was very helpful for me. I was looking for some tips on Rodinal in order to use it in the next days with Agfa APX 100.
Prodigal is my go to developer with pryo HD as second. I pre wash my film 5 minutes at temperature. Keeps beating the tank up. Also removes the antihaltion bearer from the film I also use distilled water for all my chemicals as our tap has heavy dissolved solids in it.
I've tested with old junk rolls by visual inspection, and what REALLY helps the bubbles release most effectively is to spin agitate at the beginning at least. As in, using the little swizzle stick thing that comes with the Paterson tank. After the first go, just inversions don't seem to add many new bubbles, with tapping. But the first agitation, swizzling really handles like 4x as many bubbles.
Geoffrey Crawley said this once too. You’re in good company, Gavin.
Thank you for another informative session. I have typically only used Rodinal at 1-100 stand development for my pinhole photography as it makes allowances for my misjudgments in metering. I’m glad to see information regarding Ilford agitation with other dilutions. I haven’t been able to find Rodinal in the US for over a year now so the 1-100 dilution is helpful in keeping this product available at home. I may need to look into making my own if the product doesn’t start appearing in the US soon. I thoroughly enjoy your instruction and have always found your expertise so very valuable.
Look for Adox Adonal. This is the same developer.
@@PictorialPlanet I have not been able to find that either. Not sure of the issue because it seems to be available in Europe. Even the big stores like B&H and Adorama have not had either in months.
Bellini make a copy called RDL. Can you get that?
@@PictorialPlanet Yes I have found that in a analog store on the west coast! Thank you so much!!
So good to see updated content. I ordered your book today.
I have an unopened bottle that's branded agfa so it has to be from one of the last batches before the bankruptcy.
I think i'm going to crack it open after i run out of f76+. It's a developer not wine.
Ha! That made me laugh. Go for it!
@@PictorialPlanet When i was stationed in Napoli rodinal 1+50 was my go to.
Sounds a great place to be stationed
@@PictorialPlanet great city except for the summer. the bay made it humid and the garbage men went strike every year i was there.
Thank you sir brilliant .
Thanks, M L!
Thank you ❤
You're welcome
I love Rodinal with Fomapan 100 film. I use 1+100 dilution. 6 inversions over the first 30secs then 3 inversions after 2,4,8,16 & 32 mins then I leave it until 60 mins have passed..
Good tip! Thank you!!
What EI do you rate the Fomapan 100 at, and how do you place the exposure, Spot, Average or Evaluative, please? I am interested in giving Rodinal another go after nearly 40 years.
@@lensman5762 - I shoot with rating set to 100 ASA and use my Nikon F4's Matrix metering & hand held spot meter
@@lensman5762 For Fomapan 100 I use 100 ISO as well. It easily hits box speed unlike 200 and 400.
Do the amount of inversions increase the visibility of grain?
Thanks for this video, I was starting to get a little worried.
I make my own "Rodinal" from paracetamol tablets, it works just as well as the store bought one. Before I started using the 510Pyro it was my daily developer.
Thanks for you kind comment. I'm glad you used Rodinal (equivalent) so much. It's a marvellous developer. I think it'll always be part of your life now :)
How do you make this? I'd love to know !
One of the oldest photographic products still in production, Rodinal is wonderful, cheap, long-lasting and very versatile. I have been using it almost exclusively for years now, often pushing HP5 one or two stops and using higher dilutions with longer dev times to compensate. I love love the stuff. Beautiful.
Wonderful comment, thank you!
RO-9 One Shot is sold in the USA again and I was able to buy it again. That is after I had learned how to make my own version of it. I use it on 3378 16mm movie film to make negatives to print on a contact printer.
Excellent!
Hi . Thanks dear mr Finch for starting new series of educational videos .I miss you so much .is there any similar formula for rodinal ? I"ve heard rodinal formula is still secret
Good to see you here, Homayoon! Enjoy 😊
I wish Ilford made Pan F in large format. I would love to try this combo in 5x4.
I have used Rodinal 1+50 quite a bit in the past and did like the results with slow and medium speed film. The midtones are particularly nice (a steep and almost straight curve). The highlights can be controlled by careful film testing. Then you get what you describe as "glow", but only with films that tend to have a flat shoulder. Otherwise Rodinal may produce a difficult to control gradation. The downside of Rodinal is the loss of speed, usually 1/3 to 2/3 stops compared with HC-110 or D-76 and the like. Of course, you can avoid that with stand development, which -- forgive me! -- I find an awful practice (except, perhaps, for pinhole exposures). I replaced Rodinal by Beutler many years ago: higher film speed and at least as good acutance. Still, the tonal quality of Rodinal is uniquely beautiful. So, yes, good of you to do a series on Rodinal! (And nice to see you back.)
Great comment, thank you!
I will always keep Rodinal on hand and use it when I want to get the look (which is just beautiful). I did feel that with my several-year-old, heavily crystallised Rodinal the negs seemed a little flatter compared to fresh developer. This wasn't a scientific test so it could have just as easily been another variable but something I keep in mind.
I think it does lose a little activity with age but a slight increase in development time kicks the highlights back up. It's so cheap to buy that a fresh bottle is a useful investment every few years :)
Exactly, Rodinal is a bit like keeping tinned tomatoes in the cupboard 😁
Undoubtedly a staple ingredient for many.
And one other thing, I've seen someone who uses fast films with rodinal to accentuate the grain in his images. He is a highly skilled artist and darkroom printer and the grain gives his images so much character. They are certainly pictorial in quality and absolutely high end fine art pieces.
Wouldn't be Eddie Ephraums would it? I love his work. Such talent!
Never was too thrilled with Rodinal lately as when I started developing that is what I used it a lot but now after more experience with Pyro developers that is all I will be using. Rodinal does last a long time with consistent results but I never liked the grain it produces.
Try it with PANF, a lovely match.
FX-39 gives very similar results...but a bit less grain..it superb developer for lower ASA films
2.5ml per roll. That is good to hear. I have been running 500ml of 1+100 for just one roll of 35mm whenever doing stand development because I was told 5ml was the mimimum. I should be able to be a bit more efficient with my chemistry now.
I also wished to say thank you for your videos, they have been helping me quite a bit to get into developing my own film. Cheers.
Yes, It mentions on the instructions "The RODINAL 1 + 100 times are only recommended for use in hand tanks. There should be a minimum of 250 ml’s of solution for each film in the tank." The minimum I like is 500ml of 1+100 but I'm obviously playing it safe there.
@@PictorialPlanet I see. Have you often used 250ml or generally played it safe?
My tank takes 350ml to cover the film adequately so I've never used 250 but for me, choosing 500ml, keeps it simple with my 35mm and 120 films, I use the same for each.
Understood. Thank you for replying!
The Adox web site says to use a minimum of 5ml per roll of 35mm or 120 film "when using high dilutions and small developing tanks". I've been using 10ml at 1:50 as that works out nicely for my 500ml tank (I dump out 10ml of diluted developer to get to 500ml). Maybe overkill but I figure it's best to be on the safe side.
My favorite formula with Rodinal and 400 speed film like Tri x is to agitate only for the first thirty seconds and then only once every minute - very slowly. The results are perfect
What dilution, Nicholas?
@@PictorialPlanet 1000ml of water and 20ml of Rodinal . 20c temp - that’s for two rolls of 35mm
Thanks, so the same dilution 1+500. Cheers, Nicholas.
I just discovered your videos and you’re my new favorite UA-camr. About rodinal, should you always shoot at a slightly lower ISO than the box speed when developing with it? Thanks!
Check out the last video in the series :)
Back around 2005 I discovered I could get full speed or better from Rodinal (normally considered a speed losing developer) by developing at 1:50, but giving time equivalent to a +2 stop push (= 40-50% over standard time) and agitating only *every third minute.* The extended time lets the shadows come up a bit, while the reduced agitation prevents contrast from building as with a normal push process.
In my experience (using homebrewed Parodinal), sharpness does not suffer at all, grain does not increase vs. standard agitation, but true speed (defined by shadows, as with Zone practice) increases by 2/3 to 1 stop over what Rodinal would normally give. I can't attest to preservation or loss of the "Rodinal glow" because I've never been able to see it (my perception of contrast doesn't run on "arty" qualities like that), but I can say I have a bunch of negatives I like a lot that were processed this way. BTW, Parodinal is cheap to use, too -- paracetamol tablets, sodium sulfite, sodium hydroxide drain opener, and optionally a little potassium bromide. If you get a good price on paracetamol, you can develop at 1:50 for under 10 US cents per roll of 35 mm.
This is a very interesting comment. Can you share your formula for Parodinal?
@@PictorialPlanet I didn't create this, but here's the one I use (this is for 250 ml of concentrate, but you can make bigger batches, of course):
Water (distilled, by preference) 250 ml
Acetaminophen (aka paracetamol), 30 tablets @ 500 mg each.
Sodium Sulfite anhydrous 50 g
Sodium Hydroxide anhydrous 20 g
Crush the headache tablets and dissolve in the water (let stand a bit, but don't use warm water; you want it cool to avoid excess heat when you add the lye). Add remaining ingredients in order, mix thoroughly, and let stand 24-72 hours, until solution is faintly pink (that color indicates that n-acetyl p-aminophenol has been converted to p-aminophenol in solution and very slight oxidation has begun).
This formula has been tested to last a year or more (I never kept any longer than that because I used it up sooner) in a partially filled, tightly closed glass bottle; gas blanketing will likely improve this shelf life.
Thank you very much!
Great video, and very informative. I only use Rodinal, due to it's shelf life, not being very experienced I tend to play safe...... I have had a mixture of success due to my limited experience......but nice to see that I am using a good developer . I thought that I over agitated my development but you seem to do a lot more than I do....do you ever get surge development where the tones are uneven? I developed some 4x5 film the other day and what I expected to be nice clear single tone sky,. looked very moody and stormy despite the picture being taken on a cloudless sunny day
I don't get surge marks. Do you think your sky was uneven development or compensation showing the clouds?
@@PictorialPlanet It was a clear blue sky no clouds yeet on my picture it could be mistaken for a winter's day, I was told by somebody in the 4x5 photographyfacebook group that my picture had what looked like processing surge with a distinct lighter area on the right hand side..... however looking at the negative It appears to be an even density, could this then be a scanning issue? It is difficult to diagnose in text form. I developed a roll of 120 today and it came out near perfect using your suggested method with 1:25 Rodinol dilution
Hi John. Great and timely video. I've just been thinking about changing my HP5+ developer from ID-11 to Rodinal. I've read that HP5+ & Rodinal are a very grainy combination but that is OK with me. I am keen to get your thoughts on this combination. I like the 30 sec rotation instead of 10 sec initially but would still prefer to do an initial soak for 1 minute with water .Thoughts? Thanks and best regards.
Thanks for your comment, Bernard! You're going to get grain with HP5 but that could be perfect for your work. It's all about what you want in your art. In a later video I'll cover HP5 so watch for that one. Your pre-soak is fine, go for it. It won't do any harm and, in winter, I use one to warm up my tank so I do it too sometimes. Best regards too, Bernard!
Great video John, is ordinal suitable for developing 400 iso films and sheet film
I will be doing a video on this matter my friend. Thank you for watching and commenting. I have much respect for your great UA-cam channel!
I developed films with original Rodinal from Agfa. Everything was perfect.
Great!
I love to use Rodinal with old Svema film.
I don’t know this film? Which one particularly?
@@PictorialPlanet I develop fresh Svema 64 and expired Svema 32 in Rodinal 1+50. The images are virtually grain free! For me, it seems that Rodinal fits very well with "old school" slow films.
Once again, thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge in such a wonderful way. I have learned that you prefer FP4 often developed in Rodinol or D23 which I am very intrigued to try out as soon as possible. Nevertheless, what are your thoughts on Ilford’s options for film developer? I am currently setting up a project where I am in partnership with various companies and I am tied to using Ilford products only for this project.
I have used Kodak films in the past but for the last two years, I am only using Ilford Delta. I love Ilford's film at this point and wondering why I did not make the shift earlier.
The films I am currently using
135mm Delta 3200
120mm Delta 400 and 3200
5x4'' Delta 400. (correction HP5 PLUS 400)
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on Ilfords developer as well as if you would recommend Rodinol and/or D23 with the Delta film.
Many thanks in advance. All the best,
Lowe H Seger
Rodinal and D23 both work very well with Delta films. Ilford make very good products and I've entrusted my photography to them all my life. They are, in my opinion, the best film manufacturer. Their Perceptol is excellent and will give you the best results, especially diluted 1+1 or 1+2 (for medium and large format). I'm not a user if Delta 3200 so test it first :)
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you for your time providing simple and easy to understand opinions. They are super helpful and make it much easier to put things in perspective with my own process.
great video and very useful. i will start soon to develop my film FP4 with rodinal, what fixer reference do you recommand and use in this video ? Thanks.
Just use regular fixer.
Any thoughts on doing an Xtol/Mytol series? Seems to be the most eco-friendly option, and supposedly very economical (if used replenished), and I've heard good things with t-grain films.
Check out my FX55 videos. I like xtol/mytol but FX55 out-performs Xtol and is a wonderful and easy developer to make at home. In my opinion, after testing, it's the best of the eco developers.
Just bought a bottle of Rodinal and saw this vid, quick in time : )
Curious how did you get rid of the dusts and tiny fibres on the negatives and the holders? I just find that I cannot kick them away, any tricks please?
Only handle your negatives in a very clean area. Dry them, after processing, in the shower room after running the shower hot for a few minutes to get steam in the room. The steam attaches to the dust and drags it down to the floor so your film will dry without dust on it.
Thank you very much! What do you think of Ilfosol, as compared to Rodinol?
You're welcome! The two developers are quite different. I used Ilfosol for a while and thought it to be a good developer but it didn't keep well. It's not as sharp as Rodinal but has finer grain with faster film. Ilfosol doesn't give that wonderful Rodinal glow that I like so much. If I used fast films like Delta400 or HP5 I might use Ilfosol but with slow and medium film I'd prefer Rodinal.
I think Rodinal is one of the best developers. I've been using it for years. However, sometimes I find the patchiness of grain in the shadows not particularly attractive. Also, some films with Rodinal produce a rather flat picture devoid of tone nuance in the shadows, looking like an old news paper shot. I also use 1:50 dilution with same inversion technique, so its hard to tell why that is
Mmmmmm, have you tried it with PANF rated at 40?
@@PictorialPlanet No, I mainly use tmax, rollei retro and sometimes fomapan. maybe I'll give it a try
Rodinal is now sold as Adox Adonal.
Thank you for this good tip, Brian!
Just a correction : if you dilute 1+75 to make 500 ml, you have to use 6.7 ml (500 divided by 75 equal parts = 6.666666667).
Not sure it makes a big difference in development though :)
You are right, good spot! I stand corrected and will add the correction next week! Good job :) So I just checked my math for the 1+100 and that works ok, 5ml. Fascinating because 1+75 is half way between 1+500 and 1+100 yet the amount of Rodinal to use isn't. But you're correct and I thank you 🙏
@@PictorialPlanet yeah mathematics hurt sometimes ahah. Glad I could help !
My bottle had crystal precipitates as well. (Date code 1/19.) I was about to throw it out but I used it anyway and it worked fine. I shook it up vigorously and I seemed to dissolve some of it. Any idea why that happens?
The crystals are good. They exist because Rodinal is a saturated solution. Just leave them in the bottom and use the developer as normal. No need to shake.
Unfortunately Rodinal is out of stock everywhere right now. I am down to one more 1-50 development before the bottle goes dry. I do get great results from W2D2+ which will have to suffice for now. Thank you for the videos John. I enjoy them.
You can buy it as Adox Adonal or Bellini RDL. There seems to be a problem now with using the name Rodinal. I have one and a half bottles of it so should have enough to keep me going many years. I use the ADOX stuff which is, apparently, the 2004 Agfa formula. WD2D+ is a good pyro dev, under used I believe because of PMK. I love Wimberley's photography! And thanks for your kind words, Mike.
@@PictorialPlanet Well Adonal is no longer being offered by my regular supplier but they do have Bellini which I did order. Many thanks for the info John.
You're welcome, Mike! Glad you can get the Bellini RDL.
You can also make your own fairly easily. I've tried it and the results were exactly the same (to my eyes).
Yes, I've made my own too and describe the method I use in my book. I might do a video on it.
I wonder about those crystals at 4:40. I once had these crystals in an about year old Fomadon R09, which is the FOMA version of Rodinal. And the developer was useless. That's why I'm surprised that everything is fine in ADOX Rodinal.
Sometimes, if a developer gets too cold (refrigerated for instance), tgg by e chemicals crystallise out and the developer can be ruined. This is possibly what happened to yours. The crystals I refer to are from there being a saturated solution which is quite different.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks for your answer, but it's not this case: the developer was stored in room temperature. Maybe FOMA developer isn't as good as ADOX.
@piszczyk and before you obtained it? Was it kept warm then too?
@@PictorialPlanet No idea how it was stored by seller.
In a previous video, you discussed how to make a stop bath from acid (vinegar). What is the difference in the results from that with the alkaline stop bath when using Rodinal?
Thanks for your comment. My alkaline-stop bath isn't specifically used because I'm showing Rodinal development but because I use it all the time now. Alkali-Stop is a unique product formulated by Barry Thornton around 2002 and refined by Peter Hogan. It's part of my Staining Developer System here (pictorialplanet.square.site). It stops development in seconds while keeping the process much nearer the ph of the developer. This helps protect the film (or paper) emulsion from the large ph shift when using an acid stop, encourages maximum stain with all pyro developers which prefer an alkaline environment, and protects the alkalinity of your alkaline fix should you use one.
@@PictorialPlanet Ah, okay. Thank you for the clarification. I have heard you mention staining in several of your videos, but haven't stumbled upon a video that explains what that is yet.
Mmmmmm, I need to do that. Thank you for this insightful comment.
the reason people don't like grain is that most people have come to film FROM digital, and in digital imiging this is a BAD thing, it is due to high iso's and glarey highlights, this is due to the pixcel nature of digital imaging, if you magnify too much you get this grain effect, but it really wrecks the image, it makes it look like a monne`t painting, where what we WANT is a clean crisp oil painting, or an ink ilustration of what we see, so we try and emulate this in film, as it is a practice we know.
I was a professional digital photographer for thirteen years. I know a bit about it, Andy. But, this is a film channel, for people who enjoy film and developing film and making darkroom prints. If you watch this channel bask in the beautiful silver grain. By the way, grain can look beautiful on digital prints too if done right. Some software has wonderful grain effects. I think you're talking about noise in digital images.
@@PictorialPlanet yes, a great channel, and love the detail about the darkroom stuff, esp. the "wizzardry" of making your own developers, etc. love the science stuff.
Please show us your Rodinal stand dev procedure.
Hi CCW! Yes, I will be including stand development in this mini-series
@@PictorialPlanet Thank You
I have a 2-3 year old Adox bottle 3/4 finished and it seems to have crystallised and has a sandy sound when shaking the bottle. I tried to heat it up with hot tap water but it only helped slightly. Any experience with this?
This is normal. It should be fine. Don't try dissolve the crystals, just use the developer leaving the crystals on the bottom of the bottle.
Thanks
Hi,
Can you tell me more about Alkine fixer? Does it have good shelf life? Just as good as regular fixer?
Feedback
Alkaline fixer has a good shelf life, similar to acid fixer. It is better than regular fix in that it washes out of the film or paper more readily. I use alkaline fix exclusively on my films but I use either for my paper development.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks. Ever test de Eco Fixers also? like Bellini Eco Fixers?
Normal Fixers have so good self life...
Going for Eco or Alkaline in de future. Heeft still normal fixer in stock. So self life is important for me.
Finally someone speaking the truth! Rodinal isn't grainy at all. Maybe if you are scanning your film you'll get bigger grain, but that's what scanners do (especially when using unsharp mask option). I have shot Foma 100 at 800 ISO and developed it with Rodinal 1+100 in stand development and with 6x7 negative I struggled to focus on grain with a loupe under enlarger because grain was so small :D
This!
Well exposed and well developed negatives developed in Rodinal and scanned correctly are not grainy at all. I use Rodinal all the time and scan. Extremely small grain with 1+50. In 120, Rodinal gives essentially grainless scans with 100ISO/200ISO film if exposure,dev and scanning are done with some know-how.
I love Rodinal but can't find it anywhere (6/23).
Check out part 2. I found it has a new name now.
Marvelous. I have made Parodinal that works exactly the same and keeps too. I have tried stand development mixed with T-Max developer, works fine. I also tried continuous agitation with Foma 400 on 30°C for 7 minutes, but sharpness isn't great and grain is very washy. Maybe a minute more?
What's interesting here on UA-cam too is Figital Revolutions (Stephen Schaub) DDX stand development with variating ISO (Foma 100 ISO 50-800: up till box speed measured on Zone 7 and above on Zone 4). Somebody tried and confirmed results. I still have to test, and I will use T-Max developer as it is almost identical but cheaper.
I can send the link if you like.
I take a look at Stephen's channel for that test. Interesting that T-Max developer is similar to DDX! I never knew that.
@@PictorialPlanet think the only difference is the use of Phenidone versus Dimezone-S, but I'm not sure
That's really interesting to me. Thank you for the enlightenment, Arne. Where are you living where T-Max developer is cheaper than DDX (which Ilford has made too expensive in UK).
@@PictorialPlanet hi John I am living in Germany. Even have a recipe for probably an early version of T-Max developer.
I'm interested in your recipe.
Have you ever tried the SPUR Acurol-N? I think there are some similarities between Acurol-N and rodinal.
No, I have never used the developer you describe.
I have tried it. Very high accutance, but very finicky in use. It is also very sensitive to the quality of the water, according to the instructions. It is supposed to be an improvement on Rodinal, but who knows.
@@PictorialPlanet Spur developers are quite interesting, such as Speedmajor and Shadowmax. You may have a look.
@@zhijiawang9007 I would if they were easily available in the UK, which they are not, and also quite expensive.
@@lensman5762 You can get these from fotoimpex.de
What do you use after Rodinal developer?
I know!
Can you actually do a comparison of tapping vs not? I was always taught to, then stopped and, couldn't tell the difference. I pretty much never bother any more and I can't say I've had any problems.
Maybe with gentle agitation, you aren't creating any bubbles. Although why risk it? One day it might ruin what could have been your favourite image :)
I've had bubbles on my negatives before, @moofy, and work to diminish the possibility of getting them again. Since tapping I've managed to dodge the problem. It's an awful thing that can ruin precious negatives. I'll think about doing a video on this matter during this season. Thank you for the idea @moofy.
Sir you sold me on Rodinol
You'll not go wrong with that lovely juice!
And it's an acutance developer, not a fine-grain developer.
Hot topic. I believe it to be fine grained with the right films. People are put off using Rodinal because of its reputation as a grainy developer but, as you can see in this video, it's not when used in this way. The PANF grain is beautiful and fine here. I'll be talking more about it in later videos. One thing I'll mention in later videos is how clean working it is and this helps with the fine-grained interpretation. There's little to no film fog to work through (fog adds more grain to the photograph). A unique and unusual developer that has many personalities.
I am a Rodinal user for more than 40 years.
Yes it preserves the original film grain what mean it's not optimal with 400 ISO and above films, it's fantastic with 200 ISO and lower.
The superb acutance is only obtained in a tank with Ilford type agitation, it does not work with continuous rotation development like Jobo machines.
Development time has to fit the future use. Scan and direct light enlarger requires less time (contrast) than diffused light enlargers.
My favorite past combo was Agfapan 100 and Rodinal 1 + 200 what gave a crazy rich tonal range.
It's strange when you say you use an alkali stop bath !
The stop bath has to neutralize developer remains and is normally acid (diluted acetic acid), could you please say more about it ?
Thanks for you comment, Jean-Claude. I agree with you except that Rodinal can be optimal with 400 speed film if it's the look you want. For instance, Eddie Ephraums uses it wonderfully in his book Creative Elements published by Verulam Publishing Ltd, ISBN 978-0951014790. I like this book a lot because it demonstrates what a wonderful developer Rodinal can be with fast film.
I use a lot of pyro developers and use the alkali-stop and alkali-fix formulated by Barry Thornton. I added some info in the video comments.
"iv'e been using this since the 70's", what?, does this mean you have ADHD?- as this is their "medication", to Calm them down.
Really? I never knew that.
I loved Rodinal. Used it on Plus-x, Tri-x. Efke and Orwo films. IMO, the greatest developer I have used, I got surpised by your video. I always look back to _real photography_. All the best from Nuuk, Greenland.
Thank you for this comment, @clusterguard. It is one of the great developers, no doubt, and I'll always use it even though I have others. It's just got this special look that I love.