I’ve watched a number of developing demonstration videos and they are all intimidating and complicated. You make it inviting. I’m going to begin developing my own 120 film. Thank you.
This is the most concise and simple explanation (there are others on UA-cam, but they make it more complicated than needed). One small thing: If you have got "hard" water, it is a very good idea to use a wetting agent (like Ilfotol) to prevent spots from lime in the water building up when drying the film. One can also use a normal dishwashing liquid, works the same (just one or two drops in the last wash, leave for a minute or so).
I live in Florida and started using Photo Flo from Kodak and the difference is night and day. I enlarge my own film so its definitely important to keep them clean and nice!
Hey Ari! Great to hear a photographer giving environmental advice on use and disposal of chemicals - you set a good example. Informative and fun video. Thank you dude.
washing up detergent, hang film up to dry, easy! The only problem I have seen is evidence of bromide drag when stand processing a 35mm roll of an obscure. Very fine grain film called Blue fire. By the way, if you have a darkroom that you can get in and out of without letting the light in as I do with a double door system, you can stand develop 4 sheets of 4x5 film in an 8x10 tray. No danger of bromide drag then. Just make sure the sheets are not overlapping before you leave the darkroom and go for a walk or a nap. Sorry for posting in two sections. The first part couldn't wait to join the conversation! Cheers!!
Thanks a lot ! I’ve just try on a roll. I was so relaxed by the long time developpment that I mistakely fixed the film with paper developper. Before everything went black, I had the time to see a beautifully contrasted negative. Damn!
Hi Ari, just a question: I seem to have pesky water spots in my B/w negs. I used to be too rushed in inverting my developer tank, was worse then. So I learned to be much gentler. I still get Those nasty spots from time to time. Any suggestions?
For the moment I use DF96 because I'm a beginner for the developpement and it's an easy way, but I'll try this standing method as soon as possible! I see you love nice cameras, and nice watches too!
Ari, today I tried out my recent purchase of a Rolleicord Vb. I used Ilford HP 5 plus at 400 ASA. But I admit I’m a bit confused about shooting different ASAs on the same roll as you mentioned in this video. Is the procedure to set my light meter to my desired ASA, take the measurement and set the time and f/stop as determined by the light meter and shoot? Then perhaps on the next frame select 1600 ASA on my light meter and use those settings for that frame? It sounds too good to be true. Lol! Am I correct or am I missing something?
Really like your presentation of your videos Ari just thought l would mention that there is a developer that you can make it was designed by Barry Thornton its a two bath pyro developer and although its not a stand developer you can put different film speeds together and develop for 4.5 minuets in each bath that gives excellent results
Hello, I have watched all of your videos. I like the format, the various questions they raise as well as their mood, and their humor. for this one, a question. Concerning development in general and stand dev in particular, have you tried Caffenol? For my part, I only use this system, which gives the same results. Sincerely Bernard
I'm so glad to have found this chanel and got inspired to take pictures on film and develop at home, so much fun. I have now developed around 10 films in Rodinal and stand development and most of them turn out really well. I just bought a batch of Fomapan film. I guess that stand development in Rodinal is not a perfect match with that film (grainy film + grainy development). What to choose? Xtol? Or normal development in Rodinal? What is the next step for a beginer to take?
Very nice to hear!! Fomapan 100 is pretty smooth even with Rodinal. Fomapan 400 is like somebody hit you at your stomach. So depending what you want. I like ADOX XT-3. It is a copy of xtol. I buy it from www.fotoimpex.com.
I've been using stand development with Kodak HC110 diluted 1:100. I develop for 1 hour, sometimes longer if I happen to fall asleep. I haven't seen any difference between 1 hour or 2 because the film develops to finality. I use the Ilford wash system followed by a couple of drops of
Hello Ari, did you hear of the "Ilford-rinsing". I did it till now and don't have any disadvantiges. It is far shorter, then 10 minutes. What do you think about it?
Can very much recommend the Ilford method. Much faster, like FOMA recommends actually rinsing their films for 45 minutes, would you believe it! Not needed (neither for Ilford not FOMA films). Water is a valuable ressource in most countries.
Thanks for the video! Many other videos and articles skip info about how to use the fixer. I think I'll try to develop my first 1.5 rolls of film. First roll I installer a bit wrongly in my camera and it got jammed after about 7 shots, but I managed somehow to rewind it back to the cassette. Wonder if any of that pics are there. Greetings from Ukraine!
Trying my first time now, waiting the first 30 min before the agitation.... Exiting as hell... Ilford 5+ :) After this Im going to try with a tri-x 400, the same procedure but for 20 min and one agitation after 10 min ;D...
Very information video. And Ari, I have a question weather the amount mixture developers for each 120 film? 1:100, total 500ml for one roll of 120? And if I do 4x5 film 1:100 750ml for 2 sheets 4x5? I never try this, but I want to try it. Thank you very much.
Make always as much developer as you can fit in. Don’t try to be cheap, because a liter of 1:100 mix will cost you 6 cents:-). And in the stand development the developer liquid that is not close to the film will not affect development. It is important that you do not move or shake the container in the middle because then you get new fresh developer close to the film and may overdevelop. Think is as if you’d put your film into a swimming pool full of developer for an hour. Then the developer that touches your film or is very close affects the film, but the rest of the developer at the other side of the pool will not. And increasing the size of your pool or adding more liquid won’t change that :-)
Ari, do you use water as a stop bath for all your developing or do you use an actual mild acidic stop bath for some films? I know of some long time photographers who never use anything but water and say that’s really all you need. I use water on Rodinal stand developing but have been using Ilford stop bath for X-tol and Ilford DDX, but of course I’d prefer water rather than buying the stop bath. I do use Fixer after the water stop/rinse.
It varies. For the longest time, I used only water. Now I use a stop bath more frequently for three reasons: it saves a few seconds of time ( ;-) ) and also water. For the water stop you need to do several cycles. But more, I was told it does good for the fixer and you fixer stays in better health when a stop bath is applied prior to fix. But -- I don't think this makes any huge difference.
@@ShootOnFilm Thank you Ari. The latest information from the supposed UA-cam “experts” is that a stop bath is needed for development times less than 6 minutes because it takes the water too long to stop the development process. I’m sure you always use a stop bath with photographic paper, which I understand is necessary. I don’t have a dark room so no photo paper processing. My film development times so far are in the 9-12 minute range. In researching this issue it seems that with film processing most people do it the way they were taught. So you end up with various procedures described but not too much reasoning as to why they do what they do other than it’s the way they were taught. The idea of using a stop bath for under 6 minute development times seems to make sense because the main issue is the developer is alkaline and the stop bath is acidic which stops development very quickly. So if the water doesn’t work quickly enough to stop the development then there are issues. I think since I don’t have the
Well made but....developer, especially with those containing hydroquinone, and fix should NEVER go down the drain. It should be collected in a gallon milk jug or some other collection bottle and brought to a chemical recycle facility, many dumps have a place for chemicals. Also, a quick treatment with a wetting agent like Kodak Photoflo or Adox Adoflo should always be used, hard or soft water.
You guys are nuts leaving the water open for 10 min to do the final wash, what a dumb way to waste water! You should go leaving where people do not have enough water to drink.
Partially agree with you. But not entirely. If there is something abundantly available in where I live it is water. And me not using it wouldn't help Sahara :-) It is not the water use that is wasteful, but the energy that was used to heat it. Even though I use rather cold water. ....
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The only video that's straight to the point! I see so many 30 min video with no content, skipping the most important parts...
Thanks, thanks. I personally hate videos with intros, logos, and loud music. So I don't want to do the same :-)
I’ve watched a number of developing demonstration videos and they are all intimidating and complicated. You make it inviting. I’m going to begin developing my own 120 film. Thank you.
This is the most concise and simple explanation (there are others on UA-cam, but they make it more complicated than needed). One small thing: If you have got "hard" water, it is a very good idea to use a wetting agent (like Ilfotol) to prevent spots from lime in the water building up when drying the film. One can also use a normal dishwashing liquid, works the same (just one or two drops in the last wash, leave for a minute or so).
A good advise. Just a drop, as you said!
I live in Florida and started using Photo Flo from Kodak and the difference is night and day. I enlarge my own film so its definitely important to keep them clean and nice!
This is the first time Ive been advised to release air from the lid! No leaks brilliant! Thank you.
It really helps!!!
Hey Ari! Great to hear a photographer giving environmental advice on use and disposal of chemicals - you set a good example. Informative and fun video. Thank you dude.
:-) but of course. And thanks!
I´ve never managed to get such nice results after loading a film in daylight... ;) Great video!
:-).
washing up detergent, hang film up to dry, easy! The only problem I have seen is evidence of bromide drag when stand processing a 35mm roll of an obscure. Very fine grain film called Blue fire.
By the way, if you have a darkroom that you can get in and out of without letting the light in as I do with a double door system, you can stand develop 4 sheets of 4x5 film in an 8x10 tray. No danger of bromide drag then. Just make sure the sheets are not overlapping before you leave the darkroom and go for a walk or a nap. Sorry for posting in two sections. The first part couldn't wait to join the conversation! Cheers!!
Beautifully explained
Thank you
Thanks a lot ! I’ve just try on a roll. I was so relaxed by the long time developpment that I mistakely fixed the film with paper developper. Before everything went black, I had the time to see a beautifully contrasted negative. Damn!
Oh, dear. Next time then :-)
Hi Ari, just a question:
I seem to have pesky water spots in my B/w negs. I used to be too rushed in inverting my developer tank, was worse then. So I learned to be much gentler. I still get Those nasty spots from time to time. Any suggestions?
I noticed you didn’t use any photo Flo to
Minimize possible water spots. Do you ever use it?
For the moment I use DF96 because I'm a beginner for the developpement and it's an easy way, but I'll try this standing method as soon as possible!
I see you love nice cameras, and nice watches too!
Great video Ari, just used this method on some delta 3200 shot at 1600 and worked flawlessly:)
Excellent!!! Delta 3200 gets pretty civilized at 1600!
Great tutorial, Ari! Nice and simple for starting out. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!!
Ari, today I tried out my recent purchase of a Rolleicord Vb. I used Ilford HP 5 plus at 400 ASA. But I admit I’m a bit confused about shooting different ASAs on the same roll as you mentioned in this video. Is the procedure to set my light meter to my desired ASA, take the measurement and set the time and f/stop as determined by the light meter and shoot? Then perhaps on the next frame select 1600 ASA on my light meter and use those settings for that frame? It sounds too good to be true. Lol! Am I correct or am I missing something?
Are you comfortable with processing two 120 rolls at the same time in a bigger Patterson tank with Rodinal?
Yes I am :-)
Really like your presentation of your videos Ari just thought l would mention that there is a developer that you can make it was designed by Barry Thornton its a two bath pyro developer and although its not a stand developer you can put different film speeds together and develop for 4.5 minuets in each bath that gives excellent results
Thanks! Interesting. I took a look at Barry’s stuff. Interesting!!
Hello,
I have watched all of your videos. I like the format, the various questions they raise as well as their mood, and their humor. for this one, a question. Concerning development in general and stand dev in particular, have you tried Caffenol? For my part, I only use this system, which gives the same results. Sincerely Bernard
I have tried caffenol once, twice. yes.
I'm so glad to have found this chanel and got inspired to take pictures on film and develop at home, so much fun. I have now developed around 10 films in Rodinal and stand development and most of them turn out really well. I just bought a batch of Fomapan film. I guess that stand development in Rodinal is not a perfect match with that film (grainy film + grainy development). What to choose? Xtol? Or normal development in Rodinal? What is the next step for a beginer to take?
Very nice to hear!! Fomapan 100 is pretty smooth even with Rodinal. Fomapan 400 is like somebody hit you at your stomach. So depending what you want. I like ADOX XT-3. It is a copy of xtol. I buy it from www.fotoimpex.com.
I've been using stand development with Kodak HC110 diluted 1:100. I develop for 1 hour, sometimes longer if I happen to fall asleep. I haven't seen any difference between 1 hour or 2 because the film develops to finality. I use the Ilford wash system followed by a couple of drops of
Excellent. And really, in stand, it really shouldn't matter if you add time. All developer is already exhausted, so ...
Hello Ari, did you hear of the "Ilford-rinsing". I did it till now and don't have any disadvantiges. It is far shorter, then 10 minutes. What do you think about it?
I’ve tried it but then just regular water and a lots of it is what I do now. I mean I live in Finland. Water is what we got :-)
Can very much recommend the Ilford method. Much faster, like FOMA recommends actually rinsing their films for 45 minutes, would you believe it! Not needed (neither for Ilford not FOMA films). Water is a valuable ressource in most countries.
Thanks for the video! Many other videos and articles skip info about how to use the fixer. I think I'll try to develop my first 1.5 rolls of film. First roll I installer a bit wrongly in my camera and it got jammed after about 7 shots, but I managed somehow to rewind it back to the cassette. Wonder if any of that pics are there.
Greetings from Ukraine!
Thanks thanks. Doing little mistakes every now and then is a part of the fun :-). Stay strong! 🇺🇦
Trying my first time now, waiting the first 30 min before the agitation.... Exiting as hell... Ilford 5+ :)
After this Im going to try with a tri-x 400, the same procedure but for 20 min and one agitation after 10 min ;D...
Let me know how it goes! :-)
Very information video. And Ari, I have a question weather the amount mixture developers for each 120 film? 1:100, total 500ml for one roll of 120? And if I do 4x5 film 1:100 750ml for 2 sheets 4x5? I never try this, but I want to try it. Thank you very much.
Make always as much developer as you can fit in. Don’t try to be cheap, because a liter of 1:100 mix will cost you 6 cents:-). And in the stand development the developer liquid that is not close to the film will not affect development. It is important that you do not move or shake the container in the middle because then you get new fresh developer close to the film and may overdevelop. Think is as if you’d put your film into a swimming pool full of developer for an hour. Then the developer that touches your film or is very close affects the film, but the rest of the developer at the other side of the pool will not. And increasing the size of your pool or adding more liquid won’t change that :-)
Have you tried stand development with other developers, like Ilford DDX?
No. I have not.
Ari, do you use water as a stop bath for all your developing or do you use an actual mild acidic stop bath for some films? I know of some long time photographers who never use anything but water and say that’s really all you need. I use water on Rodinal stand developing but have been using Ilford stop bath for X-tol and Ilford DDX, but of course I’d prefer water rather than buying the stop bath. I do use Fixer after the water stop/rinse.
It varies. For the longest time, I used only water. Now I use a stop bath more frequently for three reasons: it saves a few seconds of time ( ;-) ) and also water. For the water stop you need to do several cycles. But more, I was told it does good for the fixer and you fixer stays in better health when a stop bath is applied prior to fix. But -- I don't think this makes any huge difference.
@@ShootOnFilm Thank you Ari. The latest information from the supposed UA-cam “experts” is that a stop bath is needed for development times less than 6 minutes because it takes the water too long to stop the development process. I’m sure you always use a stop bath with photographic paper, which I understand is necessary. I don’t have a dark room so no photo paper processing. My film development times so far are in the 9-12 minute range. In researching this issue it seems that with film processing most people do it the way they were taught. So you end up with various procedures described but not too much reasoning as to why they do what they do other than it’s the way they were taught. The idea of using a stop bath for under 6 minute development times seems to make sense because the main issue is the developer is alkaline and the stop bath is acidic which stops development very quickly. So if the water doesn’t work quickly enough to stop the development then there are issues. I think since I don’t have the
And I didn't intend the period to insert itself after the word obscure. It just happened.
Well made but....developer, especially with those containing hydroquinone, and fix should NEVER go down the drain. It should be collected in a gallon milk jug or some other collection bottle and brought to a chemical recycle facility, many dumps have a place for chemicals. Also, a quick treatment with a wetting agent like Kodak Photoflo or Adox Adoflo should always be used, hard or soft water.
You guys are nuts leaving the water open for 10 min to do the final wash, what a dumb way to waste water!
You should go leaving where people do not have enough water to drink.
Partially agree with you. But not entirely. If there is something abundantly available in where I live it is water. And me not using it wouldn't help Sahara :-) It is not the water use that is wasteful, but the energy that was used to heat it. Even though I use rather cold water. ....
Ok greta. Hows it wasting water when it goes sraight back out there