We bought from the builder that chose to live in the home during the financial crisis in 2007. The deck he had built has no flashing, no underlayment against the house which explains why the walk out basements were leaking water when there was a weird hurricane in NJ a few yrs ago. It’s a 2nd floor but I want it redone and do not trust “builders” to come out, they will cut corners. I want it redone but not sure I can find someone to do all of what you are doing. Great video I will get my towns code info and attempt it because I am ocd with projects I have done.
As the owner of a deck company, and someone who's built 30 to 40 decks a year for the past ten years, not bad. Technically sound. The overkill is too much overkill. And wrapping the beams in tin may actually be detrimental. Two dissimilar metals, copper and tin. The chemical used to make the brown pressure treated wood is called copper azole. We've had instances where we can not have metal touching wood. Not sure I buy it myself, but you may want to check into it before wrapping a beam in tin again. On to part II
I don't have a lot of construction, but the amount of joist seem pretty excessive to me. For home owners who are trying to stretch their dollar, how many joists would you say is acceptable for a deck that size? He said he used over 40. Also, are the stiffeners he puts in between the joists necessary? When you fasten the deck top to the deck frame, wouldn't that prevent the joists flexing in that direction? Interested in hearing what you think.
@@rugbyrocks123321 : 16" oc is the standard spacing, I think he said he went 12" for "overkill" which he seems to like. Most guys Ive worked for like to double the rim at the house and on the exterior, some guys even the sides, and stiffeners are quite helpful in a span that wide so stretching your dollar gets kind of tough when you are talking decks since theres only so many corners you can cut. Never seen anyone wrap PT lumber in metal flashing, that part kinda had me shaking my head. As long as your PT lumber is rated for ground contact youre good to go.
I’ve been going over and over again on how to prevent my frame from rotting, but heck it’s only a 9x9 deck. If I got to rip it out in 5 years, I’ll install pavers instead. I like change 🙈🤪 my deck will be mostly ornamental anyway.
Hey, I thought BYOT did a great job, but was curious about wrapping the beam. I am going to be building a ground level deck this month, and your saying as long as it is pressure treated ground contact wood, I am fine to not wrap it with anything? the top of the beam will be at ground level. Thanks!
I'm getting a Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Palm Nailer after watching your video because I already have a charger and 2 batteries. Superb work!
Hey thanks for mentioning 811 utility locates before digging! First video I've seen mention it tonight while on my binge. From your local gas line locator, thanks!
Great to hear Zach and glad I included it for my views. Always got to make sure your not digging up something your aren't supposed to haha. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
Silvio I LOVE hearing comments like this. Makes me feel like I'm doing something right haha. I take great pride in producing high quality videos that help others learn how to built. Thanks so much for watching and sharing. Hope you subscribed.
Agreed. I also build decks I have also learned a couple things. It’s nice to see people taking pride in their work as I do the same. I’m getting a palm nailer ASAP. I use screws and have for years but the palm nailer is legit! Great job!
my suggestion to anyone who is building this same type of deck or similar. When you install your rim joist AND the 2 outer-side joists, double them up. A: It gives way more strength B: they act as a sacrificial board, without damaging the actual rim joist (staggering where the ends of the boards are, for strength and water intrusion) and C: when you go to install whatever type of railing system, the support is already there, just screw/ nail/ anchor to it. and as and extra, your last strip of decking will have lots to screw to.
From my knowledge you do a deck a bit out of level, downwards from the house, so water can run away from the house. Laying the decking boards pointing away from the house, would also help.
Thanks for the comment Didi and yes you are correct that is standard but personally I prefer things as level as can be and as long as you have the proper flashing attached to your house their shouldn't be any issues with moisture effecting the house. Thanks for watching and you input.
This was the same question i had- aren’t you supposed to have a 1/4 inch to a foot fall towards the outside for drainage off the deck. But you answered it. I still think the deck will last longer with fall.
Bro, as a mason I would recommend for you to try using mason-line little wooden blocks instead of tying line. That way you can move them side to side on the horizontal level plank of batter boards while you dig for sonotubes or something. Just make pencil-line on the sides also as on top with your speed square, since blocks cover the line visible from above.
This guy is amazing. I have seen any builder i have hired to do this level of care and detail !! No one has used foam pads, they just pour cement in. And the level of care he took for water proofing - unbelievable. Even the cut wood preserver!!
Henry!!!!! I don't know if you are the first one to get that joke but your the first to actually leave a comment about it LOL!!! FINALLY!!! Thank you so much for watching and for subscribing. Its greatly appreciated.
Hi! I hope I get a reply for this question i have. We are planning to replace a door from where our window then a deck outside. Which one is best to start? Making door first or finish the deck first? Or it doesn't matter which one shoyld be first?
Turned out great man! Very informative! A quick squeeze clamp on that square would help to make those vertical circle saw cuts a bit more manageable by freeing up your other hand 👍🏽
Great to hear Alan. I do all of the editing myself and I take pride in providing a detailed account of what it really takes to build a deck like this. Thanks for watching and your support.
Question...what if you have concrete structures on three sides of the deck instead of just on one side? Would you fasten "ledger boards" to the concrete on all three sides, and then have a couple of piers on the open side? Another question...you have the siding that protrudes out and fortunately can overlap the top of the ledger board, which is great, but in my case I have the concrete foundation to fasten the ledger board to, with brick above it instead of siding. What waterproofing measures should I take with the ledger board in that case?
Great deck build - love your videos, finished product always look nice. Just curious though -do you worry about water pooling under this deck since the ground beneath it is a low point? What are your thoughts about putting in french drains prior to deck install? Or is that overkill? Thanks brother , keep em coming!
That front beam might not be contacted with dirt but moisture rising from ground is trapped inside all that tape and sheating so it more likely will fail faster.
Being a retired contractor I can tell you from experience, there is no part of this deck build that could be called a DIY project. This was done by a professional contractor and it wasn't his first deck. The structural engineering aspect of this project alone would take months to learn.
Richard, I take great pride in producing high quality how to / DIY videos and reading a comment like yours makes me feel like I’m doing something right :) You are correct, this is not my first deck but hopefully I'm helping others out there with their deck projects. Thank you so much for your comment.
@@bartsoo5102 I went to carpenters school in Virginia and spent the next 25 or so years remodeling bathrooms. Buy a GOOD book on construction techniques and learn the basics of foundations and load bearing support systems. Then build a mini mock up so you can practice the actual techniques involved. After you feel confident enough to try a real deck you will need to purchase about $3000 of PROFESSIONAL quality tools and you are ready to go. If it isn't yellow don't buy it. There is a reason the vast majority of professional construction workers buy DeWalt tools . By the way, they are yellow.
I personally never put lumber (even PT) into concrete because I feel it degrades the lumber faster due to moisture, especially if there is any ground contact. Use post brackets if you can. Thanks for watching John.
If you cont use them then you can always use the concrete and post method. Just know that the more moisture and soil hit the post, the quicker the post will erode. On a secondary option you could potentially use cinder block post holders. Some of them even have built in drain ports like this one: www.google.com/search?q=cinder+block+post+holder&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS839US839&sxsrf=ALeKk03mRrkg0nUSPPFHHOYrQF1ymii2Iw:1584231481132&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=UBeczva72xbgdM%253A%252CzU5Zv1JXXXSa0M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTv6U-FGBtFgOsSmhxfFcsFPoHj0A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiux7KVmpvoAhUUFTQIHbOCDPYQ9QEwBXoECAgQJw#imgrc=UBeczva72xbgdM:
4 роки тому
@@BYOTools I'm down in the South, and the block post holders will not work down here especially in a high wind area with the uplift it would be useless same as the brackets. I think my only option would be to put in 6x6 posts buried in concrete.
You should never put wood posts into concrete. The life of the deck will be about half what it could be. The way he does it with the J bolts is pretty much the standard these days. If you want to set the posts into the ground then you could use expanding foam to set them. But that stuff is expensive and super messy.
Silly question perhaps, but the tool you used to take out the ground and to drill the holes... what's it called exactly? I understood it was a "Dengo" or something?
Great to hear MW. Learned from a few construction books I have, installing one on my own house, and of course UA-cam. However, the ones on UA-cam aren't quite detailed enough from start to finish for my liking so I felt this would be a good project to take on. Glad to hear you enjoyed it and thanks for the support.
BYOT i’ve been following your channel for a while. I made the street number plaque from your instructions. Didn’t have any walnut on hand so I made it with pine and did a faux walnut finish with stain. Your videos are the most practical for diyers. Other channels are for semi professionals.
Great to hear MW. I put a lot of effort into making sure my projects are manageable for any level of DIYers. You should take a picture of your street numbers and tag me on instagram or email it to me. Always love seeing how projects turn out from people that follow my videos. Thanks again for the support and nice work on your channel as well. Looks like a growing channel for sure.
A lot of people have explained what the rim joist is but Todd I think you had the best description of all of them. Thanks so much and hope you enjoyed the video
Probably but how much does that one cost? Is it worth getting if you don't do decks very often? Thanks for watching and hope you enjoyed the video Shawn.
This was a design preference by the client. Could have done it either way but In all honesty I love this design layout after I installed it. Hope you enjoyed the video.
The materials all together where about $13K and half of that were the deck boards themself. It was a weekend project so it porbably took me a total of 7 days to build the entire deck and windows. Let me know what you think my time is worth... haha JK. Thanks for watching.
Great to hear Cameron and thanks for watching. I got all of my PT lumber from a place called Dunn Lumber. Very nice outfit and great product. Hope that helps and thanks for all of the support.
1.) This is something that is suggested and I've done it both ways. I don't find it actually does anything since no mater what the water is going to be hitting the ground within the same area. 2.) I don't know what hole you are referring to next to the house but make sure the ground is sloped away from the house if possible. Especially if that is what it was like before excavation. Thanks for watching and hope you enjoyed the video.
Seeing all this "water proofing" makes me glad I live in a part of California where it only rains Jan-May sometimes! Lol Would it be better to do the portrait framing first all around then adding in the filler boards?
Our “rim joists” are called “boundary joists” and are generally doubled. Nice deck job, but I’ve never seen a deck built with any waterproofing added. 👌
Great to hear Brown. As for the wooden house thing you must not have to think about many earthquakes in Ireland haha. We don't get too many but we do get some and wood structures seam to fair better in earthquakes then brick. I love the look of a brick home though. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
nice job, i have a question why didn't u used sand mix with concrete, because i think flat concrete makes a big hole in wallet also nice deck and i will watch second part.
Great to hear and thanks so much for watching. I've never tried mixing sand and concrete together but it sounds like it might weaken the concrete and when your thinking of the overall cost of this deck the concrete what the lease of my worries haha. Thanks for the support.
In the framing of a deck or floor system, a rim joist is attached perpendicular to the joists, and provides lateral support for the ends of the joists while capping off the end of the floor or deck system. ... It is also confusingly called a header (header also refers to other framing components) or rim board. Liked subbed
Impressing job! I noticed you cut your flashing with a grinding tool of sorts, but something tells me it will rust in a week if it's not cut properly. At least here in Norway. 👍
Good catch but I don't have to worry about that since the metal flashing is galvanized so its meant for exterior use. Thanks for watching and GREAT to hear I have views in Norway!
If your referring to the very thin lines on the boards that are about 1/2" long then those are penetrating marks that allow the pressure treated solution to soak into the wood deeper. I know PT lumber can look different based on the region that you are in but this is what all the PT lumber looks like in the Pacific NW. Thanks for watching.
@@TeamProsperity in the NW I think most cheap lumber is Spruce or something like that instead of pine which does not absorb the treatment as well as pine does in the northeast, therefore they need to make those cuts into the wood to make it absorb more. :)
I'm pretty sure you're going to find that this is what's called "incised" pressure treat, also known by some as "ground rated". BYOT is right, this lumber is deeper treated; it originally came out here in Canada to meet the CSA spec. of 0.26" perf. My crews have been using this since we started back in '72. (Yeah, I'm old...)
You did a fine job until you got to the beam being nested in the ground, it will collect water that takes away all your attempt to keep ground contact. should be draining that trench to a low spot or your beam will rot fast. Thanks
Juan you would be correct if the beam is going to be submerged in water of in contact with soil. That is not the case and will never be the case since I properly wrapped the beam and its a couple of inches off the ground, which means it will never be submerged in ground water. Thanks for watching though and hope you enjoyed the majority of the video :)
Haha! It definitely wasn't a cheap deck but Its not going anywhere thats for sure haha. Thanks for watching Blake and greatly appreciate that you subscribed.
Hahahaha, love it!! The stretching is killing me lol (might be because I'm into a few bottles of wine during quarantine) I swear I saw a hard hat in there. Great Video!!! Fun to watch and pretty informative...btw the "radio voice" is great. I'm a "surgeon" at this, lol. I was sucked in to see what was next. Great solid advice. Awesome video!! On to part 2
LOL! Yes James! You nailed some great parts of this video and glad you enjoyed it. Let me know what you think of Part 2 and thanks so much for watching. Hope you subscribe.
Awesome looking deck, very inspirational video! I'm currently building my first deck and I can't find any website that can ship G-Tape to Iceland! Are there any alternative names for these tapes that I could potentially find in a local store? Thanks!
Great to hear and good question. Yes there are other types of tape you can use. Also called joist tape or you can just use some type of flashing tape and cut it down like the one here: amzn.to/2V2T4Wn Thanks for watching and good luck on your project. Hope you subscribed.
It's against code in a lot of places now to affix a deck to the main structure using a ledger board like you did. It's actually safer and stronger to have the deck "floating" off the house, essentially being a free standing structure. You would have had to dig out 9 more holes and pour a ton more concrete but ultimately would have been the better choice. I'm also surprised that you didn't have to have an inspector come out and check your holes out to make sure they meet code. Which means this wasn't permitted. If this was your own house and you were doing it as the homeowner that would be one thing. But it sounds like you're a professional and this is a job someone commissioned you to do. It's odd that you built the hell out of this deck in some places and then skimped on other things.
Thanks for the input Matthew. All decks in my area are installed directly to the house but that is interesting to hear that they are built differently in other areas off the house. That makes since because the less potential water intrusion locations you have on the house the better. O and just know that I was just helping out a friend on this project. A GOOD friend haha. Thanks for watching.
Isn't it a crazy number of joists I think you could be fine with 1/2 or is the decktop really really flimsy ??? We used Real 2x4s on top in 1970. Also back then no such augers existed it was post-hole diggers all the way, baby!
Its just different times these days. This deck is a beast but its based on code requirements for my area. Thanks for watching and yes its always a little crazy to see REAL 2x4's when you come across them.
Personal preference Rob. I've built decks both ways in the past it I don't find it makes any difference what so ever since the rain water is virtually landing in nearly the same exact area after it falls off your deck.
Pretty sure the first 'Beam' was in your 'Dingo' accent, which I'm gonna score you on because I'm Aussie and we do that... I'd say you get a six. More gusto and a little bit more mick-take and you'll have it! Great deck build, cheers cobba.
Haha! Great to hear i have fans across the world Simon and thanks for the tip on the accent. I'll make sure to keep that in mind next time. Hope your staying safe over there due to the fires. My thoughts and prayers are with Australia right now.
LOL!! Never noticed that Joseph. Good catch. I'm just going to say it was the ground beneath my kneepads haha. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
@@BYOTools You bet I did. I'm looking at the Grillnetics product now. Soon as I finish adding my ceiling lights I will look at a deck with that product. Yay Salad Days ... lol; which of Shakespeare's was this? I haven't read too many of them but I'd like to add this to it.
We bought from the builder that chose to live in the home during the financial crisis in 2007. The deck he had built has no flashing, no underlayment against the house which explains why the walk out basements were leaking water when there was a weird hurricane in NJ a few yrs ago. It’s a 2nd floor but I want it redone and do not trust “builders” to come out, they will cut corners. I want it redone but not sure I can find someone to do all of what you are doing. Great video I will get my towns code info and attempt it because I am ocd with projects I have done.
As the owner of a deck company, and someone who's built 30 to 40 decks a year for the past ten years, not bad. Technically sound. The overkill is too much overkill. And wrapping the beams in tin may actually be detrimental. Two dissimilar metals, copper and tin. The chemical used to make the brown pressure treated wood is called copper azole. We've had instances where we can not have metal touching wood. Not sure I buy it myself, but you may want to check into it before wrapping a beam in tin again. On to part II
I don't have a lot of construction, but the amount of joist seem pretty excessive to me. For home owners who are trying to stretch their dollar, how many joists would you say is acceptable for a deck that size? He said he used over 40.
Also, are the stiffeners he puts in between the joists necessary? When you fasten the deck top to the deck frame, wouldn't that prevent the joists flexing in that direction?
Interested in hearing what you think.
@@rugbyrocks123321 : 16" oc is the standard spacing, I think he said he went 12" for "overkill" which he seems to like. Most guys Ive worked for like to double the rim at the house and on the exterior, some guys even the sides, and stiffeners are quite helpful in a span that wide so stretching your dollar gets kind of tough when you are talking decks since theres only so many corners you can cut. Never seen anyone wrap PT lumber in metal flashing, that part kinda had me shaking my head. As long as your PT lumber is rated for ground contact youre good to go.
I’ve been going over and over again on how to prevent my frame from rotting, but heck it’s only a 9x9 deck. If I got to rip it out in 5 years, I’ll install pavers instead. I like change 🙈🤪 my deck will be mostly ornamental anyway.
Hey, I thought BYOT did a great job, but was curious about wrapping the beam. I am going to be building a ground level deck this month, and your saying as long as it is pressure treated ground contact wood, I am fine to not wrap it with anything? the top of the beam will be at ground level. Thanks!
Fabulous, tightly organized, efficiently presented
Nice deck bro! My wife’s boyfriend loves it! 👍
I'm getting a Milwaukee M12 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Palm Nailer after watching your video because I already have a charger and 2 batteries. Superb work!
Great to hear and thanks so much for watching. Gotta love a palm nailer. Hope you subscribed.
I like your regular voice instead of your "radio voice". Nice job and think it's so cool you stretched before working!
Haha great to hear you enjoy my normal voice and the stretching. Always important! Thanks for watching and all the support.
You done a excellent job don’t see people doing work like that any more pride is gone so sad
Thank you man I’m learning so much with your videos
Yes stretching is important and should be a part of the risk assessment.
Haha! Well stated. Thanks for watching!
Hey thanks for mentioning 811 utility locates before digging! First video I've seen mention it tonight while on my binge. From your local gas line locator, thanks!
Great to hear Zach and glad I included it for my views. Always got to make sure your not digging up something your aren't supposed to haha. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
i ve build decks for 8 years for a living and still time to time accept deck jobs.You sir are a PRO.I've learned from your video thank you.
Silvio I LOVE hearing comments like this. Makes me feel like I'm doing something right haha. I take great pride in producing high quality videos that help others learn how to built. Thanks so much for watching and sharing. Hope you subscribed.
Agreed. I also build decks I have also learned a couple things. It’s nice to see people taking pride in their work as I do the same. I’m getting a palm nailer ASAP. I use screws and have for years but the palm nailer is legit! Great job!
Can I have ideas
my suggestion to anyone who is building this same type of deck or similar. When you install your rim joist AND the 2 outer-side joists, double them up. A: It gives way more strength B: they act as a sacrificial board, without damaging the actual rim joist (staggering where the ends of the boards are, for strength and water intrusion) and C: when you go to install whatever type of railing system, the support is already there, just screw/ nail/ anchor to it. and as and extra, your last strip of decking will have lots to screw to.
Thanks for the suggestion Jenny. Greatly appreciate your input. Thanks for watching.
From my knowledge you do a deck a bit out of level, downwards from the house, so water can run away from the house. Laying the decking boards pointing away from the house, would also help.
Thanks for the comment Didi and yes you are correct that is standard but personally I prefer things as level as can be and as long as you have the proper flashing attached to your house their shouldn't be any issues with moisture effecting the house. Thanks for watching and you input.
You'd have to run the joists the other direction to run the boards away from the home, that deck is just a little long for that..
This was the same question i had- aren’t you supposed to have a 1/4 inch to a foot fall towards the outside for drainage off the deck. But you answered it. I still think the deck will last longer with fall.
Bro, as a mason I would recommend for you to try using mason-line little wooden blocks instead of tying line. That way you can move them side to side on the horizontal level plank of batter boards while you dig for sonotubes or something. Just make pencil-line on the sides also as on top with your speed square, since blocks cover the line visible from above.
Thanks for the helpful tips Sergey. I'll have to keep that in mind on the next project. Thanks for watching and the support.
Can you refer any contractors in the Philadelphia area ?
This guy is amazing. I have seen any builder i have hired to do this level of care and detail !! No one has used foam pads, they just pour cement in. And the level of care he took for water proofing - unbelievable. Even the cut wood preserver!!
Your videos are an incredible Resource, Thank You
Great to hear Jackson. I put a lot of time and energy into my videos so glad to hear it shows. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
Bravo.👏
Super planning,tutoring and execution. 👍
Great video. Dude for future projects that involves concrete please use a vibrator, rent it with the mixer. greetings from Colombia
Great to hear and thanks for the tip Luis. Glad I have viewers in Colombia. Thanks so much for watching and hope you subscribed.
Rim & Deck joke... You sir just earned yourself a sub.
Henry!!!!! I don't know if you are the first one to get that joke but your the first to actually leave a comment about it LOL!!! FINALLY!!! Thank you so much for watching and for subscribing. Its greatly appreciated.
@@BYOTools LMAO, it's refreshing to know there are others out there that share the same sense of stupid humor. Great work though man, keep it up!
Awesome! Can't wait for part 2
It will be sooooo Dubjiiiii!
very hardworking naman ni kuya keep it up po stay safe & godbless
Thanks so much for watching and the kind words Akosi.
Hi! I hope I get a reply for this question i have. We are planning to replace a door from where our window then a deck outside. Which one is best to start? Making door first or finish the deck first? Or it doesn't matter which one shoyld be first?
Like a good book cannot wait for Part 2
Couldn't say it better myself :)
Great build!
Great to hear Andrew and thanks for watching. Hope you subscribed.
Turned out great man! Very informative!
A quick squeeze clamp on that square would help to make those vertical circle saw cuts a bit more manageable by freeing up your other hand 👍🏽
Great to hear Donovan. That is a great suggestion on the speed share when doing the vertical cuts. I'll remember that one. Thanks for watching.
your editing is as excellent as your decking. this is the go to video for anyone who is building one from ground up.
Great to hear Alan. I do all of the editing myself and I take pride in providing a detailed account of what it really takes to build a deck like this. Thanks for watching and your support.
@@BYOTools i send it to my trainer and we were watching in class room with dozen mates xDDD
very nice construction
Great to hear LLok. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
Man phenomenal video! Very detailed and professional.
Great video, with list of supplies is a nice touch, I need a palm nailer.
PN a must haha! Great to hear Brian and thanks for watching. Hope you subscribed.
Question...what if you have concrete structures on three sides of the deck instead of just on one side? Would you fasten "ledger boards" to the concrete on all three sides, and then have a couple of piers on the open side?
Another question...you have the siding that protrudes out and fortunately can overlap the top of the ledger board, which is great, but in my case I have the concrete foundation to fasten the ledger board to, with brick above it instead of siding. What waterproofing measures should I take with the ledger board in that case?
Great deck build - love your videos, finished product always look nice. Just curious though -do you worry about water pooling under this deck since the ground beneath it is a low point? What are your thoughts about putting in french drains prior to deck install? Or is that overkill? Thanks brother , keep em coming!
They call it a rim board because it's the outer rim of the deck. You have your rim's which encase the field, which ties into the ledger.
Thanks for the reply Jordan and for watching. Hope you enjoyed the video.
That front beam might not be contacted with dirt but moisture rising from ground is trapped inside all that tape and sheating so it more likely will fail faster.
Based on my research and the tape spec sheet that shouldn't be an issue but only time will tell. Thanks for watching though Mr. WizeGUY.
Being a retired contractor I can tell you from experience, there is no part of this deck build that could be called a DIY project. This was done by a professional contractor and it wasn't his first deck. The structural engineering aspect of this project alone would take months to learn.
Richard, I take great pride in producing high quality how to / DIY videos and reading a comment like yours makes me feel like I’m doing something right :) You are correct, this is not my first deck but hopefully I'm helping others out there with their deck projects. Thank you so much for your comment.
@@BYOTools You're welcome, that was a first class build.
I wish could learn how to do a quality build. Where and how do you learn this?
@@bartsoo5102
I went to carpenters school in Virginia and spent the next 25 or so years remodeling bathrooms. Buy a GOOD book on construction techniques and learn the basics of foundations and load bearing support systems. Then build a mini mock up so you can practice the actual techniques involved. After you feel confident enough to try a real deck you will need to purchase about $3000 of PROFESSIONAL quality tools and you are ready to go. If it isn't yellow don't buy it. There is a reason the vast majority of professional construction workers buy DeWalt tools . By the way, they are yellow.
@@BYOTools dear friend, I am VERY happy you make money by your videos, but don't say you do it to help others. you do it to make money.
Great job 👍👍👍👍👍
Great to hear Nien. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
I like that small concrete maker (mixer) 7:18
Some of the best money I've ever spent haha. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
Its called the rim joist because first of all its a joist then placed on the rim of your deck.
Thanks for the clarification Matt and hope you enjoyed the video.
DIY professional project! This is good work not for the weekend warrior.
Great to hear Rob and thanks for watching.
If that deck was 24" off the ground ,would you still use post brackets or put the posts in concrete?
I personally never put lumber (even PT) into concrete because I feel it degrades the lumber faster due to moisture, especially if there is any ground contact. Use post brackets if you can. Thanks for watching John.
If you cannot use them, Then what?
If you cont use them then you can always use the concrete and post method. Just know that the more moisture and soil hit the post, the quicker the post will erode. On a secondary option you could potentially use cinder block post holders. Some of them even have built in drain ports like this one: www.google.com/search?q=cinder+block+post+holder&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS839US839&sxsrf=ALeKk03mRrkg0nUSPPFHHOYrQF1ymii2Iw:1584231481132&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=UBeczva72xbgdM%253A%252CzU5Zv1JXXXSa0M%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTv6U-FGBtFgOsSmhxfFcsFPoHj0A&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiux7KVmpvoAhUUFTQIHbOCDPYQ9QEwBXoECAgQJw#imgrc=UBeczva72xbgdM:
@@BYOTools I'm down in the South, and the block post holders will not work down here especially in a high wind area with the uplift it would be useless same as the brackets. I think my only option would be to put in 6x6 posts buried in concrete.
You should never put wood posts into concrete. The life of the deck will be about half what it could be. The way he does it with the J bolts is pretty much the standard these days. If you want to set the posts into the ground then you could use expanding foam to set them. But that stuff is expensive and super messy.
Great video bro thanks. Hey QQ, why do you use nails versus screws?
Silly question perhaps, but the tool you used to take out the ground and to drill the holes... what's it called exactly? I understood it was a "Dengo" or something?
There is a link Pieter. Thanks for watching: www.toro.com/en/professional-contractor/compact-utility-attachments
Cool. So in the end this deck build cost about what 40-50 thousand dollars?
Americus diamonds 💎
Nice vid
Great to hear Leroy and thanks so much for watching. Hope you subscribe.
Is the Seattle frost depth 12 inches? I'm having issues finding the right info here, a lot of places say "Washington average 24 inches"
this was amazing. This was the best video I've seen on this topic. How did you learn all of this?
Great to hear MW. Learned from a few construction books I have, installing one on my own house, and of course UA-cam. However, the ones on UA-cam aren't quite detailed enough from start to finish for my liking so I felt this would be a good project to take on. Glad to hear you enjoyed it and thanks for the support.
BYOT i’ve been following your channel for a while. I made the street number plaque from your instructions. Didn’t have any walnut on hand so I made it with pine and did a faux walnut finish with stain. Your videos are the most practical for diyers. Other channels are for semi professionals.
Great to hear MW. I put a lot of effort into making sure my projects are manageable for any level of DIYers. You should take a picture of your street numbers and tag me on instagram or email it to me. Always love seeing how projects turn out from people that follow my videos. Thanks again for the support and nice work on your channel as well. Looks like a growing channel for sure.
@@BYOTools just sent you a message on instagram.
You guys should meet up and do a project together- then toss each others salads
Think rim of a glass, the outer edge. The rim joist is the outer edge of a deck.
A lot of people have explained what the rim joist is but Todd I think you had the best description of all of them. Thanks so much and hope you enjoyed the video
@@BYOTools I did. Good to see another true craftsman at work. There are many that make the claim, but few that actually deserve the title.
They make a strap gun that shoots collated 1 1/2” nails for hurricane straps. It’s way better than a palm nailer
Probably but how much does that one cost? Is it worth getting if you don't do decks very often? Thanks for watching and hope you enjoyed the video Shawn.
In the South, Dun-Lumber is reusing wood you already “done” used! 😂😂
Why did you use divider boards across the deck? Why not just line up the boards in length?
This was a design preference by the client. Could have done it either way but In all honesty I love this design layout after I installed it. Hope you enjoyed the video.
@@BYOTools sure did. Thank you
Palm nailers are invaluable, worth the $50.
AGREED! as you can tell by how many times I said palm nailer in the video haha. Thanks for watching Rob.
How much did this deck cost to build ish? Labor + materials?
The materials all together where about $13K and half of that were the deck boards themself. It was a weekend project so it porbably took me a total of 7 days to build the entire deck and windows. Let me know what you think my time is worth... haha JK. Thanks for watching.
Nice job, man. Ground level decks are hard to do. Where do you get your lumber? All the treated crap I get is warped, crowned and bowed.
Great to hear Cameron and thanks for watching. I got all of my PT lumber from a place called Dunn Lumber. Very nice outfit and great product. Hope that helps and thanks for all of the support.
2 questions
1: shouldn’t the deck slope away from the house??
2: is drainage under the deck a problem u have an open hole next to ur house??
1.) This is something that is suggested and I've done it both ways. I don't find it actually does anything since no mater what the water is going to be hitting the ground within the same area.
2.) I don't know what hole you are referring to next to the house but make sure the ground is sloped away from the house if possible. Especially if that is what it was like before excavation.
Thanks for watching and hope you enjoyed the video.
BYOT ty for the response I'm about to do a deck and have to dig out under it was worried it would what to pool up and get in the crawl space
thank you .
Great to hear Min. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
Rim Board - because it runs at the rim/perimeter of the structure.
Thanks Jas. Appreciate the support and hope you enjoyed the video.
What's the name of the equipment you're using to excavate?
Dingo Backhoe. Its a beast!! Thanks for watching Mike and hope you subscribed.
Seeing all this "water proofing" makes me glad I live in a part of California where it only rains Jan-May sometimes! Lol
Would it be better to do the portrait framing first all around then adding in the filler boards?
or just use treated lumber
In Finland where rains quite a lot, we do not use any of these water proofing things...We just use treated wood!
Our “rim joists” are called “boundary joists” and are generally doubled.
Nice deck job, but I’ve never seen a deck built with any waterproofing added.
👌
QUESTION: Why use expensive G-Tape instead of just painting the top of the josts?
Nice job mate, just cannot get the wooden house thing. Bricks n mortar over in Ireland. Too many rainy days :)
Great to hear Brown. As for the wooden house thing you must not have to think about many earthquakes in Ireland haha. We don't get too many but we do get some and wood structures seam to fair better in earthquakes then brick. I love the look of a brick home though. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
because it is the rim of the deck like the rim of a bucket
Thanks for the reply Jeff. I did receive the answer before but much appreciate you answering my question. Hope you enjoyed the video.
How do you attach the center support bracing?
nice job, i have a question why didn't u used sand mix with concrete, because i think flat concrete makes a big hole in wallet also nice deck and i will watch second part.
Great to hear and thanks so much for watching. I've never tried mixing sand and concrete together but it sounds like it might weaken the concrete and when your thinking of the overall cost of this deck the concrete what the lease of my worries haha. Thanks for the support.
In the framing of a deck or floor system, a rim joist is attached perpendicular to the joists, and provides lateral support for the ends of the joists while capping off the end of the floor or deck system. ... It is also confusingly called a header (header also refers to other framing components) or rim board. Liked subbed
Well explained LSM. Thanks for the helpful and knowledgable note. Greatly appreciate the support.
How much did it cost to build this deck? with all materials.
In total we spent approximately $13K for all of the materials. The deck boards alone where half the cost though. Thanks for watching Mussa.
BYOT did you mean 13 hundred?
make sure you check that there's no inground services where you are digging. Don't want to chew up a phone cable or the gas line
Couldn't agree more. That why I added that note at min 2. Thanks for the reminder Lucius and hope you enjoyed the video.
Great video thanks! Quick question could you also put the G tape on the bottom of the joists?
The top part moves when I install it
Impressing job! I noticed you cut your flashing with a grinding tool of sorts, but something tells me it will rust in a week if it's not cut properly. At least here in Norway. 👍
Good catch but I don't have to worry about that since the metal flashing is galvanized so its meant for exterior use. Thanks for watching and GREAT to hear I have views in Norway!
Using a grinder heats the metal. You lose galvanizing properties with heat because the zinc coating can burn off causing premature rust. Use snips...
Nice video BTW!
오..좋아요.아주 좋습니다.
Very good
시청 해 주셔서 감사합니다
What kind of joist material is that?
In my are the standard joist material is pressure treated doug fir. These are 2x12 joists. Thanks for watching Duane and hope you subscribed.
Ok what are all those marks on the joists? They don’t look like regular treated 2x10’s?????
If your referring to the very thin lines on the boards that are about 1/2" long then those are penetrating marks that allow the pressure treated solution to soak into the wood deeper. I know PT lumber can look different based on the region that you are in but this is what all the PT lumber looks like in the Pacific NW. Thanks for watching.
BYOT cool, just never seen that before. Good to know 🤙🏻
@@TeamProsperity in the NW I think most cheap lumber is Spruce or something like that instead of pine which does not absorb the treatment as well as pine does in the northeast, therefore they need to make those cuts into the wood to make it absorb more. :)
I'm pretty sure you're going to find that this is what's called "incised" pressure treat, also known by some as "ground rated". BYOT is right, this lumber is deeper treated; it originally came out here in Canada to meet the CSA spec. of 0.26" perf. My crews have been using this since we started back in '72. (Yeah, I'm old...)
You did a fine job until you got to the beam being nested in the ground, it will collect water that takes away all your attempt to keep ground contact. should be draining that trench to a low spot or your beam will rot fast. Thanks
Juan you would be correct if the beam is going to be submerged in water of in contact with soil. That is not the case and will never be the case since I properly wrapped the beam and its a couple of inches off the ground, which means it will never be submerged in ground water. Thanks for watching though and hope you enjoyed the majority of the video :)
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing, since I plan on building a 15x15 ground level deck soon.
Great to hear JJ. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
How'd it go?
Great job, a very, well built deck.
Definitely well built haha! Thanks for watching!
Rim joist because it's the rim of the deck brother.
Haha. Thats too obvious LOL! Thanks for watching Rocky.
omg maaakeee surrrrrre is now ringing in my head.
Hahaha sorry about that but thanks for watching BYS.
@@BYOTools dont get me wrong its a great video overall :D
If your deck is 13 feet wide , why did you not put center supports for such a span?
Good question John. That’s why I used 2x12 joists. Based on code you can use a larger hoist beam and you only need one footing. Thanks for watching.
@@BYOTools thank you
covering the beams sounds good, but the reality is the underside has no protection, other than the landscape fabric, right?
That is correct. Why worry about the underside though? thanks for watching B and hope you enjoyed the video.
So well water proofed you didnt even need pressure treated lol
LOL! Right?! Thanks for watching Jay and hope you enjoyed the video.
How many days for this build?
I did this over a few weekends but I would say in total it took about 7 days all together. Thanks for watching.
Great job man! That deck must have cost as much as the house. Haha
Haha! It definitely wasn't a cheap deck but Its not going anywhere thats for sure haha. Thanks for watching Blake and greatly appreciate that you subscribed.
@@BYOTools I'm sure, and yeah, that bad boy will last forever. Thanks for the vids, and knowledge for us diyers.
Very nice great presentation 👍
Great to hear Yuri! Thanks for watching and the support.
Lumber guy came in hot!
Nice video
Great to here SS. Thanks for watching.
Wow, you are a pro!!! Nice details I have never thought about!
Great to hear Griffin. Thanks so much for watching and all your support.
Should i get a palm nailer?
YEEEEEESSSSSS!! LOL! I know I was way overhyping the palm nailer but it was so helpful :) Thanks for watching Keith.
Hahahaha, love it!! The stretching is killing me lol (might be because I'm into a few bottles of wine during quarantine) I swear I saw a hard hat in there. Great Video!!! Fun to watch and pretty informative...btw the "radio voice" is great. I'm a "surgeon" at this, lol. I was sucked in to see what was next. Great solid advice. Awesome video!! On to part 2
LOL! Yes James! You nailed some great parts of this video and glad you enjoyed it. Let me know what you think of Part 2 and thanks so much for watching. Hope you subscribe.
Rim joist: it's not in the field, it's on the rim?
Thanks for the clarification. Much appriciated and its a duuuuuu moment for me haha. Thanks for watching.
Awesome looking deck, very inspirational video! I'm currently building my first deck and I can't find any website that can ship G-Tape to Iceland! Are there any alternative names for these tapes that I could potentially find in a local store? Thanks!
Great to hear and good question. Yes there are other types of tape you can use. Also called joist tape or you can just use some type of flashing tape and cut it down like the one here: amzn.to/2V2T4Wn Thanks for watching and good luck on your project. Hope you subscribed.
It's against code in a lot of places now to affix a deck to the main structure using a ledger board like you did. It's actually safer and stronger to have the deck "floating" off the house, essentially being a free standing structure. You would have had to dig out 9 more holes and pour a ton more concrete but ultimately would have been the better choice.
I'm also surprised that you didn't have to have an inspector come out and check your holes out to make sure they meet code. Which means this wasn't permitted. If this was your own house and you were doing it as the homeowner that would be one thing. But it sounds like you're a professional and this is a job someone commissioned you to do. It's odd that you built the hell out of this deck in some places and then skimped on other things.
Thanks for the input Matthew. All decks in my area are installed directly to the house but that is interesting to hear that they are built differently in other areas off the house. That makes since because the less potential water intrusion locations you have on the house the better. O and just know that I was just helping out a friend on this project. A GOOD friend haha. Thanks for watching.
Hi, what sort of nailer do you use?
They only nailer i used on this project was this one. Thanks for asking and watching the video Evgeny. -Framing Nailer amzn.to/2VYLLQx
Pressure treated no joke
the deck is worth more and will be there longer than the house will
What's the size of the decking?
Isn't it a crazy number of joists I think you could be fine with 1/2 or is the decktop really really flimsy ??? We used Real 2x4s on top in 1970. Also back then no such augers existed it was post-hole diggers all the way, baby!
Its just different times these days. This deck is a beast but its based on code requirements for my area. Thanks for watching and yes its always a little crazy to see REAL 2x4's when you come across them.
@@BYOTools Kudos I have the impression you could drive a semi-trailer truck across that deck without damage!
How come there is no 15 degrees slope from the house so that rain water will flow away from the house ?
Personal preference Rob. I've built decks both ways in the past it I don't find it makes any difference what so ever since the rain water is virtually landing in nearly the same exact area after it falls off your deck.
Thanks for watching and hope you enjoyed the video.
Amazing job , Thank you
Great to hear Zaby. Thanks for watching.
Pretty sure the first 'Beam' was in your 'Dingo' accent, which I'm gonna score you on because I'm Aussie and we do that... I'd say you get a six. More gusto and a little bit more mick-take and you'll have it! Great deck build, cheers cobba.
Haha! Great to hear i have fans across the world Simon and thanks for the tip on the accent. I'll make sure to keep that in mind next time. Hope your staying safe over there due to the fires. My thoughts and prayers are with Australia right now.
Simon Pollock I’m fr9m Australia too :)
From* sorry I accidentally clicked the wrong key
@5:53 was that sound your back or your knees? Good Grief, had those stretches worn off?
Great work!
LOL!! Never noticed that Joseph. Good catch. I'm just going to say it was the ground beneath my kneepads haha. Thanks for watching and hope you subscribed.
@@BYOTools You bet I did. I'm looking at the Grillnetics product now. Soon as I finish adding my ceiling lights I will look at a deck with that product.
Yay Salad Days ... lol; which of Shakespeare's was this? I haven't read too many of them but I'd like to add this to it.