Another great collection of tips & tricks. 👍 I'll add that locking the Carriage whilst parting is also "best practice" especially on smaller (bench top) sized Lathes.
Thank you very, very much. I have a whole day tomorrow when I will practice this, power feed seems to scary though, it's like begging for a catastrophic crash. I really enjoy your informative films. Cheers from Sweden.
@occasionalmachinist Hey. Ir worked fin, I managed to part of brass with success but steel is harder. I think I have to take my top slide and compound apart to attend some looseness. I appreciate your effort making that film. Looking forward to the next one. Cheers mate.
Although I agree with you about rear parting blades, another reason folks do it is because they can create a more rigid mount for it. Lots of small lathes lack rigidity, especially in the compound. Of course lots of folks replace their compound with a block too, which is arguably better since it helps with all tools, not just parting.
I'm not sure that on a mini-lathe a rear toolpost gains significant rigidity. The size of them almost guarantees movement somewhere in their construction. There's still the narrow dovetails, the width of the carriage along the ways, the...
Aluminum does have an Oxide Layer if it didn't the oxygen in the air would cause it to explode as it's one of the most reactive metals on the periodic table. It just instantly replaces the oxide layer when cutting or grinding. Just a scientific tidbit.
That reactivity is the reason that some form of lubricant is needed. Without a barrier, that raw metal will try to bond to other metals, usually well enough to gum things up.
@@occasionalmachinist exactly this, especially with 6061 and the likes. You may have better luck with some free cutting alloys, but a bit of oil even something like mineral oil helps.
Brass is very forgiving. One other tip: make sure the parting blade is sharp. If using HSS give it a touch on the grinder and a stone often to keep it sharpened
Another great collection of tips & tricks. 👍
I'll add that locking the Carriage whilst parting is also "best practice" especially on smaller (bench top) sized Lathes.
Good point
Thank you very, very much. I have a whole day tomorrow when I will practice this, power feed seems to scary though, it's like begging for a catastrophic crash. I really enjoy your informative films. Cheers from Sweden.
Start slow - feed by hand but try to make it slow and steady
@occasionalmachinist Hey. Ir worked fin, I managed to part of brass with success but steel is harder. I think I have to take my top slide and compound apart to attend some looseness. I appreciate your effort making that film. Looking forward to the next one. Cheers mate.
@@JB-ol4vz Well done and thanks for the feedback
Very nice work sir. Thanks.
Thanks for that very useful information.
Hopefully of use to people
Parting is always such sweet sorrow.🤣
It was also a draft title for this video...
Although I agree with you about rear parting blades, another reason folks do it is because they can create a more rigid mount for it. Lots of small lathes lack rigidity, especially in the compound.
Of course lots of folks replace their compound with a block too, which is arguably better since it helps with all tools, not just parting.
I'm not sure that on a mini-lathe a rear toolpost gains significant rigidity. The size of them almost guarantees movement somewhere in their construction.
There's still the narrow dovetails, the width of the carriage along the ways, the...
Thx for the vid.
No probs.
I have had reasonable success using inverted part off tool in tool post, running lathe in reverse.. Cam lock chuck
Aluminum does have an Oxide Layer if it didn't the oxygen in the air would cause it to explode as it's one of the most reactive metals on the periodic table. It just instantly replaces the oxide layer when cutting or grinding.
Just a scientific tidbit.
That reactivity is the reason that some form of lubricant is needed. Without a barrier, that raw metal will try to bond to other metals, usually well enough to gum things up.
@@occasionalmachinist exactly this, especially with 6061 and the likes. You may have better luck with some free cutting alloys, but a bit of oil even something like mineral oil helps.
@@ryebis Yes.
I'm not a fan of rear parting. Great tips
About to do my first parting job on brass, hopefully I don't end up with lump of scrap brass. Power feed (I wish)
Brass is very forgiving. One other tip: make sure the parting blade is sharp. If using HSS give it a touch on the grinder and a stone often to keep it sharpened
Have a paintbrush like the one you've probably seen me use ready. Brass sprays fine swarf around. I use the paint brush to deflect them away from me.