This gentleman is one of the wisest on UA-cam. His videos are very informative, I think he is one of the best teachers I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing with others the great knowledge and may God Most High bless you and your family for such great contribution to those of us who want to learn more. Muchas gracias por tan hermosos videos y su gran esfuerzo por hacerlos...
This is a nice informative video. One thing I noticed is that you are using am “Empire” square and from my experience those squares are not necessarily square. I tested my x-empire square to a Starret and to a Woodpecker square and found it to be inaccurate. This is just my opinion and thought I’d share.
Hey! I just spent a lot of money on redwood for a table I’m making. After mill work..(I used table saw with level to joint the table top), as I was assembling the top I noticed most of the edges are curved so there’s a big gap in the middle of every edge? Any idea what that may be?
You didn't achieve a 90 degrees cut on the edge. Warped blade, uneven insert, you level us not flat, fence is off. It's one or some or all. I wish I could take my own advice but you need to use the same wood to make test cuts and have tools that you trust and confirm to check the cuts. 89.9 degrees doesn't work for joints. Spend your time on test cuts and remember that a blade might look 90 degrees vertically at 1 inch but the error will be more pronounced at 2 inches. Most of my squares were not square. My level does not have parallel sides. Even a good machinists square and straight edge will give you specs on the parallel tolerances for inside and outside edges. We assume these things are dead on and you need to check, check and triple check. Check your ruler too. Check the squareness of the catch. The do go out of square and need to be adjusted. Check your framing square too. They can be calibrated with a punch and divits that move the metal. Look it up. Hope this helps. At the moment, it makes me want to give up but I'll keep chugging along.
Nice video. Only thing I did differently is not use my throat plate as my reference for perpendicular. It has some set screws and can be adjusted to get the height what you want. I use a bigger square that I can reference the table top on the saw.
I appreciate your tips. I have a Craftsman 10" cast iron top table saw and I'm having a devil of a time getting the blade parallel to the miter slots. It seems to me that I've run out of adjustment room on the trunnion tightening bolts. I made some PALS (Precision Alignment & Locking System) which are little "L" brackets that fit over the trunnion bolts and pull them left or right as needed. However, the trunnion bolt holes seem they need to be reamed out to a larger size to allow for more lateral adjustment, unless I'm doing something totally wrong. I hate the thought of having to completely disassembling the saw to accomplish this, especially if its not necessary. Any thoughts?
I actually had a Craftsman 10" cast iron top table saw, so that's a walk down memory lane. Can you loosen all 4 bolts so that the top moves freely, and then adjust to be parallel and tighten all 4? That would be a preferred approach if I were in your shoes.
@@SawsHub Actually, there are 6 bolts (3 per either end). Today I loosened all six, tapped with a dead blow hammer, and checked the alignment. I didn't get to finish the adjustment (I hope to tomorrow) but a cursory check seemed to indicate almost perfect alignment. This will be the 3rd time I've tried aligning so keeping my fingers crossed. If I had to guess what's different this time is the middle bolts on both ends were more adequately loosened. Thanks for inquiring.
@@HWPcville I have a Craftsman 10" cast iron top table saw (like most people) also, Model# 113.298032. Both my dad and I tried numerous times over the course of the first 20 years or so to get the blade and cross-cut slot parallel. The Rip fence was fine. The best we could get it was an 8" board would be about 1/32" off front to back cut. I made a sled to run against the rip fence for when an accurate cross-cut was needed. Finally, I ended up reaming the Trunnion mount holes a tad on mine. I was then able to get the blade and slot parallel. It cross-cuts dead-on, now. I bought my saw new in 1981 for $329.99. Overall, it's been a great, durable saw. Wouldn't even think of parting with it. During that time, also bought other Craftsman machines, too - a 12" Band Saw, 6 1/8" Jointer and 12" 2hp Planer-Moulder. Still have and use them all, and all have served me well...Those were the days when you could go to Sears, buy a machine, and go to their parts dept., in the same store, and get replacement parts, upgrades, blades, knives, etc. for whatever they sold.
@@jedclampett4215 I remember those good old days too. I would go look at the big power tools and dream of owning one of each. I was an office worker with a growing family and just tinkered for fun with wood working in my free time so didn't really have a good reason (or good enough paycheck) to buy them. Now that I'm retired I want them all over again..lol
@@HWPcville LOL...yes, I do miss those days. I did the same thing - going to Sears and looking at all the machines & tools. I was an Aircraft Mechanic and used any overtime money I made to buy the machines. Funny that the Table Saw, Band Saw & Joiner were all $329.99 each and the Planer was $449.99. A lot of money back then, but, they are good quality machines - Sears contracted out to major manufacturers to produce them and put the Craftsman name on them. But, for about $1500 I got four good quality machines that have lasted 40 years and still doing the job. Don't know if in today's throw-away world I could have done that. LOL....I still have my Garcia Mitchell Spinning Reels, Penn Trolling & Boat Reels from when I was a pre-teen. They still work fine and catch fish just as well as the $150 Shimano Reels. Good luck to you on your Table Saw. If you go the ream route, it didn't take much for my saw - only a couple thousands each hole. It was almost 20 years ago so, I don't remember the exact size. But, wasn't hard to do. Just a bit time consuming. Happy woodworking...
Why wouldn't you adjust your miter to the opposite miter slot? Wouldn't that be better than the blade which could be out? I understand sleds are all the rage but I sure hate giving up that 1/2" off the surface. I'll have to think about why that would be more precise than an adjusted cross cut miter. It would seem as though the CCMiter would be more versatile for polygons and 22-1/2 degree cuts. You have really good presentation quality and these are rhetorical thoughts. Thanks!
It is very difficult to accurately set a miter gauge to 90 degrees. For precision, you really need a sled, because you can adjust a sled easily to tolerance of 0.005" in 24". That is much more precise than you can achieve with the miter gauge. Great thoughts, thanks for sharing!
@@SawsHub I agree to a degree or parts there of. But the first thing you do when you get a saw is take a 24" board and attach it to the miter. Then check for 90 and you're set. I will say that miter sleds are more stable and maybe hold the work a little better. Safer too. But again giving up that 1/2" blade height is concerning. You are a great presenter and I'm subscribing to see what the next one will be.
Assuming you are making a rip cut - if so, you need to (carefully) adjust your rip fence so that the far end is at least as far away from the blade as the near end (preferably a little further away). Also be sure there is a riving knife behind the blade so that the tightening isn't a warped board coming together behind the blade. This situation is a def safety hazard!
My fence seems to have a BOW in the middle. It's metal and just noticed after 2 years because am trying to make a cutting board out of several wide strips of wood. Went to glue them together...BOOM! Any 2 pieces that were cut are bowlegged! Dang! I guess I'll put a known piece of flat wood screwed to the fence.
Thank you, I have a cheap, poor quality craftsman table saw - the crappy accessories are so loose, the fences have too much slop and play - i'm going to build a sled like yours that uses both slots.
All tools like a table saw need to be calibrated. The components need to be checked also. I have a new blad.and it's already warped. So I can't address setting the blade to 90 until I replace it. Also my table surface is not level. My miter slots are not parallel. My fence is off. Both horizontally and vertically. My insert is not level. What I do have is 2 reliable machinist squares and a veritas start edge that is true. My point is the devil is in the details. I want to use my table saw to make other precision jugs and a drill press table and until I get all this straight, I really can't to a good job. I thought buying the squares and straight edge would help me confirm and adjust all this. But at the moment, they just showed how much I'm up the river without a budget. I got 2 weeks of wasting time and loosing sleep over this. I know it will work out eventually but man! My point is you need to determine where you want to start checking and can you confirm and adjust if something is off. I'd like to see a video based on what to do when... And go over what I just typed.
This gentleman is one of the wisest on UA-cam. His videos are very informative, I think he is one of the best teachers I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing with others the great knowledge and may God Most High bless you and your family for such great contribution to those of us who want to learn more. Muchas gracias por tan hermosos videos y su gran esfuerzo por hacerlos...
Wow, thanks!
Loved it, very handy for an amateur like myself. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
This is a nice informative video. One thing I noticed is that you are using am “Empire” square and from my experience those squares are not necessarily square. I tested my x-empire square to a Starret and to a Woodpecker square and found it to be inaccurate. This is just my opinion and thought I’d share.
Is that a Pioneer receiver in the cabinet? SX 780?
Your content is fantastic, thank you so much for takin the time to make these videos - they have been a huge help.
Glad you like them!
Hey! I just spent a lot of money on redwood for a table I’m making. After mill work..(I used table saw with level to joint the table top), as I was assembling the top I noticed most of the edges are curved so there’s a big gap in the middle of every edge? Any idea what that may be?
You didn't achieve a 90 degrees cut on the edge. Warped blade, uneven insert, you level us not flat, fence is off. It's one or some or all. I wish I could take my own advice but you need to use the same wood to make test cuts and have tools that you trust and confirm to check the cuts. 89.9 degrees doesn't work for joints. Spend your time on test cuts and remember that a blade might look 90 degrees vertically at 1 inch but the error will be more pronounced at 2 inches. Most of my squares were not square. My level does not have parallel sides. Even a good machinists square and straight edge will give you specs on the parallel tolerances for inside and outside edges. We assume these things are dead on and you need to check, check and triple check. Check your ruler too. Check the squareness of the catch. The do go out of square and need to be adjusted. Check your framing square too. They can be calibrated with a punch and divits that move the metal. Look it up. Hope this helps. At the moment, it makes me want to give up but I'll keep chugging along.
Nice video. Only thing I did differently is not use my throat plate as my reference for perpendicular. It has some set screws and can be adjusted to get the height what you want. I use a bigger square that I can reference the table top on the saw.
This was helpful! Thank you!
Great job. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I appreciate your tips. I have a Craftsman 10" cast iron top table saw and I'm having a devil of a time getting the blade parallel to the miter slots. It seems to me that I've run out of adjustment room on the trunnion tightening bolts. I made some PALS (Precision Alignment & Locking System) which are little "L" brackets that fit over the trunnion bolts and pull them left or right as needed. However, the trunnion bolt holes seem they need to be reamed out to a larger size to allow for more lateral adjustment, unless I'm doing something totally wrong. I hate the thought of having to completely disassembling the saw to accomplish this, especially if its not necessary. Any thoughts?
I actually had a Craftsman 10" cast iron top table saw, so that's a walk down memory lane. Can you loosen all 4 bolts so that the top moves freely, and then adjust to be parallel and tighten all 4? That would be a preferred approach if I were in your shoes.
@@SawsHub Actually, there are 6 bolts (3 per either end). Today I loosened all six, tapped with a dead blow hammer, and checked the alignment. I didn't get to finish the adjustment (I hope to tomorrow) but a cursory check seemed to indicate almost perfect alignment. This will be the 3rd time I've tried aligning so keeping my fingers crossed. If I had to guess what's different this time is the middle bolts on both ends were more adequately loosened. Thanks for inquiring.
@@HWPcville I have a Craftsman 10" cast iron top table saw (like most people) also, Model# 113.298032. Both my dad and I tried numerous times over the course of the first 20 years or so to get the blade and cross-cut slot parallel. The Rip fence was fine. The best we could get it was an 8" board would be about 1/32" off front to back cut. I made a sled to run against the rip fence for when an accurate cross-cut was needed. Finally, I ended up reaming the Trunnion mount holes a tad on mine. I was then able to get the blade and slot parallel. It cross-cuts dead-on, now. I bought my saw new in 1981 for $329.99. Overall, it's been a great, durable saw. Wouldn't even think of parting with it. During that time, also bought other Craftsman machines, too - a 12" Band Saw, 6 1/8" Jointer and 12" 2hp Planer-Moulder. Still have and use them all, and all have served me well...Those were the days when you could go to Sears, buy a machine, and go to their parts dept., in the same store, and get replacement parts, upgrades, blades, knives, etc. for whatever they sold.
@@jedclampett4215 I remember those good old days too. I would go look at the big power tools and dream of owning one of each. I was an office worker with a growing family and just tinkered for fun with wood working in my free time so didn't really have a good reason (or good enough paycheck) to buy them. Now that I'm retired I want them all over again..lol
@@HWPcville LOL...yes, I do miss those days. I did the same thing - going to Sears and looking at all the machines & tools. I was an Aircraft Mechanic and used any overtime money I made to buy the machines. Funny that the Table Saw, Band Saw & Joiner were all $329.99 each and the Planer was $449.99. A lot of money back then, but, they are good quality machines - Sears contracted out to major manufacturers to produce them and put the Craftsman name on them. But, for about $1500 I got four good quality machines that have lasted 40 years and still doing the job. Don't know if in today's throw-away world I could have done that. LOL....I still have my Garcia Mitchell Spinning Reels, Penn Trolling & Boat Reels from when I was a pre-teen. They still work fine and catch fish just as well as the $150 Shimano Reels.
Good luck to you on your Table Saw. If you go the ream route, it didn't take much for my saw - only a couple thousands each hole. It was almost 20 years ago so, I don't remember the exact size. But, wasn't hard to do. Just a bit time consuming.
Happy woodworking...
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great info sir
Why wouldn't you adjust your miter to the opposite miter slot? Wouldn't that be better than the blade which could be out?
I understand sleds are all the rage but I sure hate giving up that 1/2" off the surface. I'll have to think about why that would be more precise than an adjusted cross cut miter. It would seem as though the CCMiter would be more versatile for polygons and 22-1/2 degree cuts.
You have really good presentation quality and these are rhetorical thoughts. Thanks!
It is very difficult to accurately set a miter gauge to 90 degrees. For precision, you really need a sled, because you can adjust a sled easily to tolerance of 0.005" in 24". That is much more precise than you can achieve with the miter gauge. Great thoughts, thanks for sharing!
@@SawsHub I agree to a degree or parts there of. But the first thing you do when you get a saw is take a 24" board and attach it to the miter. Then check for 90 and you're set. I will say that miter sleds are more stable and maybe hold the work a little better. Safer too. But again giving up that 1/2" blade height is concerning.
You are a great presenter and I'm subscribing to see what the next one will be.
Gold! 🙂
Thanks!
when i feed my wood it seems to tighten ? could you give me the reasons for this please thank you
Assuming you are making a rip cut - if so, you need to (carefully) adjust your rip fence so that the far end is at least as far away from the blade as the near end (preferably a little further away). Also be sure there is a riving knife behind the blade so that the tightening isn't a warped board coming together behind the blade. This situation is a def safety hazard!
My fence seems to have a BOW in the middle. It's metal and just noticed after 2 years because am trying to make a cutting board out of several wide strips of wood. Went to glue them together...BOOM! Any 2 pieces that were cut are bowlegged! Dang! I guess I'll put a known piece of flat wood screwed to the fence.
Thank you, I have a cheap, poor quality craftsman table saw - the crappy accessories are so loose, the fences have too much slop and play - i'm going to build a sled like yours that uses both slots.
All tools like a table saw need to be calibrated. The components need to be checked also. I have a new blad.and it's already warped. So I can't address setting the blade to 90 until I replace it. Also my table surface is not level. My miter slots are not parallel. My fence is off. Both horizontally and vertically. My insert is not level. What I do have is 2 reliable machinist squares and a veritas start edge that is true. My point is the devil is in the details. I want to use my table saw to make other precision jugs and a drill press table and until I get all this straight, I really can't to a good job. I thought buying the squares and straight edge would help me confirm and adjust all this. But at the moment, they just showed how much I'm up the river without a budget. I got 2 weeks of wasting time and loosing sleep over this. I know it will work out eventually but man! My point is you need to determine where you want to start checking and can you confirm and adjust if something is off. I'd like to see a video based on what to do when... And go over what I just typed.