Get Perfect Cuts Every Time - My Favorite Table Saw Tip
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2019
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In this woodworking tip and trick video I show you how I get perfect cuts on the table saw every time. This technique applies to routers, bandsaws, miter saws, skill saws and every tool in your shop with a cutting implement. Let me know what you like to see us build next. Thanks for watching! Please like, comment and subscribe. Cheers!
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You do a top-drawer job with respect to the info, your production value, keeping extraneous chatter to a minimum, just great all around. You remind us CDO types (OCD alphabetized for those who don’t already know) that no detail is too small. Thanks from a not-so-new woodworker who tries to always get better. Keep it up!
Love it when just as you say “stay safe in the shop” your bandaged finger goes across the screen!
Great tip. I have seen a lot of people who work with a marking knife, thats something i'm going to look for too. Thanks for this tip!
Just got into woodworking, and I spent so long trying to find a video that actually explained 1. How to use actually, correctly use a tape measure in conjunction with a marking knife as you do around 0:50, and 2. Where to actually align the wood with the saw blade. Excellent and succinct video. Cheers.
Man I can’t tell you how much this helped me. I am pretty new and had a lot of frustration . thanks
You're always teaching and I'm always learning! Thanks,
Hey man,
I love your videos. I always get something from your videos, and love continuing to learn...even though I have been woodworking for all these years. Thanks again, great job.
Great advice as always. Keep it up, I love this series
Thanks for the saw tip about the saw tip! 😉😁👍🏻👊🏻
Love these quick tips. Thanks.
Thanks for the great tip! Now I know why I have two marking knives! I've been using carpenter pencils and mechanical pencils this whole time. This should make my joinery a lot more accurate.
Great tip and so very important. Thanks Jonathan.
I love this kind of video as a good reminder... Shop 101
Good tub and demonstration Jonathan.
Thank you very much, fantastic tips will try them today.
Cheers
Sam👏👍
Excellent video and process
Thank you for sharing
I follow 20+ woodworking channels and no one has explained like you have. I’ve even taken beginner woodworking courses and classes and no one explained like this. So simple and so quick! JKM 2020!!!
Hahahaha thanks my friend
Great tip Jon! Keep up the good work. 👌🏻
Your lighting is on point! Also, your videos are 🤟
Quick and to the point.
the go forth and cut accurately my friends bit killed me
Thanks for the tips. I am putting a marking knife on my wish list as a high-priority purchase.
Over the past few months, I've developed habits that get me very accurate cuts without a knife, so I have not seen the need for one in my shop. I've seen UA-cam woodsmiths using them, but they never registered as a tool I thought I needed.
Early this year, I looked for a new tablesaw with the number 1 criteria being that the fence could be accurate every cut. My miter saw, cheap as it is, has a laser guide. I took a lot of time calibrating each of these tools so they would be where I read the marks so I can get consistent, repeatable, and accurate cuts.
When measuring to cut or place a stop on the miter saw, I stretch my ruler from the end of the board until the left edge of the laser lines up on the tape measure mark. (I always keep the cut to the left of the blade.)
Using the tablesaw measuring guide, I line it up exactly the same way, but I always keep the piece to the right of the blade (between the blade and fence.)
I also work in some of my friends' shops. Only one has an accurate table saw and neither has a calibrated miter saw.
When I use saws at these other shops, I measure the table saw with my tape measure pressed against the fence and set the cut to the closest inside tooth. It's just like you did with your mark.
Similarly, I measure from the end of the board to the most inside tooth of the miter saw. (I learned to be careful about pulling the blade down after poking a hole in my tape, LOL)
When marking a board to cut, I usually mark with a pen and I look and take mental note of the (gap) between the mark and the guide I used. To be accurate, I try to cut and leave the line. If I'm successful, (depending on whose saw, the blade may wobble ever so slightly) I take the board and fit it. Then, if needed, I press the board up against the blade, then turn it on and make a very narrow cut using just the side of the teeth. After one to three times, I usually have a very accurate cut.
Because I know my saws, I can make an accurate cut using a pen to mark. But, after your short tutorial, I can see how much more accurate I can be with marked cuts on the first cut using your knife.
I am definitely getting one soon.
Thank you, again,
Great tips bud!
Loved this explanation. instant sub.
Great tip
Great, great, great! 💪
Thx for the tip
Great info!
Thanks. I do mostly framing type where a sharp pencil is just fine as long as one remembers which side of the pencil line the square was on. When I'm cutting a 14' beam, that kind of accuracy isn't really needed.
But .. I never realized until this video that the teeth in any of my saws might not be in the same plane when cutting. I knew it, just never thought about it when lining things up. Thanks for providing some extra context for that bit of knowledge.
I do use a marking knife that I use when doing finer joinery. One reason is that it cuts the fibers and creates a 'valley' that is easy to move squares around an edge and it's a lot easier to get a hand saw or chisel started in the right place. I think both pencil and marking knife have their pace in a shop, as long as one realizes when to use them.
Good tip, thanks
Life changer indeed.
Great information
Simple but brilliant
thank you Katz its kind of you to pass on your info . i worked in all kinds of shops ( machinists and other types ) not all ppl would share info . i am new ( old and retired ) to wood working you can tell as i leave a puddle if i stand any place for a long time ( wet behind the ears )
Good tip.
I wish I had a nice workshop like that, i just clear a space outside and set up my portable saw. One day I'll have a workshop.
When I started watching I figured I knew how to do accurate cuts. Then by the end of the video I thought "damn, I'm an idiot. I didn't know how to do accurate cuts." So thanks man, I hope I can stop feeling like an idiot and make accurate cuts now.
Excellent tip 👍🏾
Thanks Joe!
Great tip for a beginner like me. :)
Nice tip.
This works great.... as long as ur Saw is properly aligned 👍🏼 I just found mine was pretty far off but got it fixed up
I'm currently using an old table saw I inherited from my grandfather who never taught me anything at all and which was sitting outside in the rain for a year and had a ton of rust on it. I probably need to replace the blade on it.
@@FringeWizard2 yea, lol i'd say thats always a good idea.... wd-40 dry lube is ur best friend as well to lube up the internals and screw
Thank you.
If you use the outside measurements of your caliper you can line up one jaw at the edge of the board while using the other jaw to lightly scribe a mark. Then come back with your marking knife and a square to deepen it. This will leave you with a super accurate measurement when you need precision.
Completely agree and use it often. This tip is more for the everyday user. Not everybody has calibers but everybody has a tape measure and a razor blade
Man I need a table saw.
Hullo big guy. Your reply to Christofix Regarding the Stanley Knife used by Paul Sellers is a terrific marking knife and I only found out recently that he used one. I bought one of these many years ago mainly to finish off a gift voucher I had. I bought it to use to sharpen my pencil then I saw Paul use his and was I gobsmacked. My answer was yes. we even bought them from the same company. Even more gobsmacked. Take care BIG GUY.
Do you have a video on table saw fences. I really hate my fence.
My experience with wood working is pretty slim and elementary, but when I do, often I do not get things to measure out precisely. In the past, when it did get close, I don't know how I did it. I always wondered how to get better....now I now. Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure bud!
Loved the marking knife suggestion! Thankyou. How much blade wobble do you have on the blade?
Thanks bud. Zero wobble. If you have wobble you should watch my tablesaw tune up video. Cheers
It’s even easier if you have a table saw with a rack and pinion fence system as my Dewalt DW745, which makes it extremely precise each and every time.I can just take a measurement and adjust the fence using the scale on the saw - and get an exact cut. If I change the blade I just have to remember to push the fence gently against the blade and zero the scale. But a very good video and a good tip.
This was very helpful. I’m just getting into the woodworking. Love watching your videos because you look and sound like jimmy kimmel
Hahahaha thanks
Now what about adjusting the combination square to 2 inches? This may be a dumb question but I don't have much experience trying to make super accurate cuts/measurements, but would you set the ruler on the square to where the 2" line is showing but right on the edge, or to where that line is just covered? Same with tape measures i guess. is the 2" mark where the edge of the board is just against one side of the tape measure line or would you try and get it right in the middle of the line? Or is it more preference and being consistent that matters?
What am I missing, for decades I use the equipment to set up the cut. I don't measure much at all. A side from that and a better method of setting a cross cut up is to use a sacrificial fence on your miter gauge and use the slot cut by the blade to align the mark on the top side of the piece, the side you can easily see.
I've known this for years and I'm still using a pencil. I'm a amateur blacksmith so I have no excuse for not having a marking knife. That's my next project. Thanks for the nudge.
Go forth and create my friend!
It may just be me but when u measure on a tape measure do u mark the inside of the line or the outer side of the line because the line itself is pretty thick and im just curious
I am new to woodworking and really appreciate this video. Thank you!
"Stay safe in the shop" and has a band-aid on the finger. Thanks for the demo
Hahaha I'm not superman
@@katzmosestools I just thought the irony was hilarious.
Yeah, there’s a lot of measuring factor to take into account when wood working.
If one measures accurately from the fence to the correct blade tooth ( offset toward the fence) ACCURATELY is the key word it will be a perfect cut. Still though, MOST IMPORTANTLY your fence must be perfectly parallel with the blade always. Having said all of that... great video for the beginner.
I have a rigid portable table Saw it seems like I have to adjust both ends of the fence to match both ends of the blade by tapping it ever so lighty. very tidious.
Check out my table saw Tune up video
Not doubting the accuracy of your method. If you use the edge of your line it doesnt matter how wide the marked line is. I like to see the line and I know which side to cut to ...just like you know you have to cut to one side of the blade on your saw. The width of your line doesnt matter if the blade width is an eight thick..... also. With no visible pencil line. You can't see if your cut went astray either.
Yea but a marking knife lays flat against your square. The thicker the pencil the further it pushes out from your ruler which just means there is more opportunity to get it wrong.
Are you trying to leave the line intact? Cut right up against the line?
Right up to it. That's why you use a marking knife. It's the thickness of a razor. You put the very tip of the tooth in the crevasse of the line
Lol, sketchy push stick. Thanks bud
Two words incra positioner
If you could find a used one for that it would be a good deal, they are 420 on their website. I had a choice to pay 400 for the saw stop fence or buy the incra, it was an easy decision.
My new motto "Stay dusty my friends"
That's amazing
😎👍👍
Great tip! Also, you sound like Jimmy Kimmel.
yeah he does lol
Minus the politics !!!
8 thou off. Amatuer.
Vernier does not look square?
my eye sight is getting bad in my old age lol
Whoop Whoop First Comment!
What if your fence isn't perfect? Mine wobbles all over.
For table saw I just measure on the saw from fence to the tooth offset toward the fence. I don't mark the wood at all. I am by no means skilled at woodworking. but I don't see much point in marking the wood when using the table saw with fence.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Doesn't really matter if you use a pencil (0.5mm) or a knife imo, the really difficult bit is transfering the measurement from the ruler/tape to the material. You can be half a mm off just from perspective alone (closing one eye for example).
Not with a marking knife. You put the tip right up to your tape and you're never off. If it's touching, it's touching no skewed perspective about it. I've been using this for years and if I take my time I'm dead on every time.
Depending on the accuracy of that little tab on the end of your tape measure I find it easier believe the tape measure out of the equation and use a metal rule if my measurement is less than 6 in (machinist rule) or 12 in (ruler) depending on the rule I have handy
@@richardflorence3927 The tape measure is close enough to perfect to make no difference. At least every tape I have ever used was. The slop in the edge piece is specifically designed to compensate so that whether you push the measure up against a ledge, or hook it over the end of a board, you will get the exact right measurement.
@@mckenziekeith7434 I'm not missing that point but when you're looking for a tight joint, the difference in slop between one measurement and another can make a gap.
@@richardflorence3927 Dude you're a master.
Why wouldn't you just set and use the scale on the ripping fence? I can't remember the last time I measured, marked and aligned a distance visually to the blade rather than just setting the fence according to the scale.
That's a good way to get close but marking on your wood and lining up the blade is the only way to know you're exact. For me that's the difference between no gap and a 1/32 or worse sometimes. I use the scale on my rip fence when it only matters that each piece is the same size but when accuracy counts I would never rely on it
My saw was missing the pointer when I got it. I just measure from fence to edge of tooth with a tape measure. No point in marking the wood.
3:05 "two on the dot" ? Sure looks like one half of 1/64" from your caliper reading. Still much closer than using pencil line for sure.
When did Jimmy Kimmel start giving such great advice?
Accurate cuts, yet measuring in impreial... :D 3 4/243 of an inch :D
One inch is exactly 25.4 mm. So, if it helps you, just imagine that he was trying to cut the wood to 50.8mm.
why transfer the measurement? why not just measure from the fence to the inside offset blade tooth with an accurate scale and skip the middle man?
Good tip...
Knives are great for "in the shop" with stable tools and situations, good flooring and all...
I get a lot of projects outside, uneven ground, poor conditions in general... It's part of why I even get the job. I'm the only one crazy enough to try...
SO I work with a pencil, 1.3mm, actually... Why? Because it has a predictable line-size, and wear-pattern... and it's not so hard to keep a little tab of sand-paper for sharpening the damn thing. I personally hate the "wooden" and "Carpentry" pencils. I have them around, but avoid them on projects.
Here's a hot tip, with a circular saw... Take a fine tip marker (or paint) and line up the actual kerf of the blade with the front "sight" of the saw... mark it for high, easy visibility.
How?
Unplug first (obviously) and then open the guard and press the blade against a known straight edge (like your work table)... Then using a framing square (my go-to) you can snug one of its edges to the "outside" of the exposed saw blade. That gap you see between the two, once you get them properly aligned against the blade, is your "actual kerf"... and you just fill in a stripe of color directly over that.
I don't recommend making a "zero clearance" sole-plate for circular saws, because disabling the guard is an invitation for catastrophic failure. There's always someone who assumes the damn thing has a working guard, and gets injured... and sometimes it's me. Don't do that.
BUT making that mark on the saw, itself, so you can see it, makes a LOT better sense than trying to "go by the factory" that almost never in hell has it lined up the way their book says it's "supposed to work". That's why "competent woodworkers" often lay such a disreputable standard on the poor circular saw, yet I can get as much (or often more) out of a plain old circular saw than most can get out of their table saw... funny, ain't it.
SO back to the Pencil... If you're going to use it, two things.
1. Use ONE size for most of everything you do, and KNOW what that size is and what it means... I like the 1.3 because I can see the damn thing (astigmatism is garbage for sight)...
2. Make your standard whether you cut to the line (and leave it) or bisect it (leave about half) or remove it with the waste.
I cut to it, on the waste side... (leave the line) on the first cut. Primarily, I do this because I can always go back and remove some wood. I can't go back and put the stuff back on.
The sad reality is, no matter how damn precise you want to be, there is GOING to be "test fitting" in woodwork. It's part of the nature of it, and part of its charm. The very wood fibers are often thicker than the "level of imprecision" in our measuring instruments... and it's been that way as far back as the 1800's if not further. Nuclear Scientific accuracy isn't going to change anything... and you'll be taking the thing apart, shaving off a smidgeon, and putting it back together again, too.
If that's not "the definition of a good time" for you, then my advice is that this might be your idea of "good business"... but NOT your ideal hobby... maybe metal-smithing or tool-and-die work. (I like those too) ;o)
Good tips, I've been a machinist for 35 years and am retired now.Got board so I got into woodworking.Just learning, but my yearning to do something productive again feels good.Thanks for the videos,they help.
Always welcome!
Just try to help out here and there... ;o)
Your Amazon link to the marking gauge says the product is currently unavailable and "We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock."
yep. KMW viewers bought them out
@@katzmosestools Nice. I'll check back some other time, then. Thanks for the reply.
Your caliper wasn't 90° to the face. You did not measure the board but some angle to the face.
Incorrect
@@katzmosestools what do you mean by "incorrect"? The caliper doesn't appear to line up with the edges in your video. Look at the gap on the left hand side leg.
Lol
Thanks for having a firm grip on the obvious. What happened, did you stab your finger with the marking knife. Stay safe and always cut to your measurements.
Even though you’re a ‘great’ woodworker, you shouldn’t measure from the end of your tape for accuracy as the stop can move slightly, so always go off the 100mm mark or 1” mark.
wrong. Tapes compensate for it.
@@SwapnilBhartiya you obviously aren’t a joiner by trade, or you would have learnt that in college…
This was not helpful at all. How do you push the wood through and get a straight cut and no burning and no waviness and so on?
Another way for great cuts is a 3500$ saw lol just giving you a hard time
Hahaha true. Watch my table saw tune up video. I show you how to make any table saw an accurate beast.
Oh trust me you’re my go to woodworking channel seen all the videos you have put out. I have five kids and out of work due to two back surgeries pending three more so I could only afford a craftsman cast aluminum top but after watching it cuts straight and true. Just need to tune up my 16 in grizzled bandsaw I got for $75 now.
The only problem with being able to make accurate cuts like that is you have to be ready to deal with all the pussy that comes your way.
Cheers bro.
Hahaha true
Use a mechanical pencil