Amiga 2000 Power Supply Recapping
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 вер 2024
- Of all the capacitors in the Amiga 2000, the ones in the power supply are probably put under the most stress. It's high time to replace them! A bit of a tutorial-esque video this time, hope you enjoy and find it useful.
Here's the electrolytic capacitors I found in my Phiphong PSM-2000 PSU (ideally use Low ESR good brand ones as replacements):
680uF 200V (2x)
4700uF 16V (2x)
4700uF 10V (2x)
220uF 25V (1x)
100uF 35V (1x)
47uF 25V (3x)
47uF 16V (1x)
1uF 50V (2x)
The track used for the soldering/timelapse portions of the video is called "Thinkertinker" and was kindly provided by Focus 10 aka Øystein Hansen. Thank you! Check out more of his work here: / user-993847645
Focus 10's tune "8-bit wannabe" is now also available as a single from CDBaby/iTunes/Spotify: store.cdbaby.c...
If you find this video helpful and/or entertaining please like, share, subscribe and/or consider a donation!
TWITTER: / thejanbeta
PATREON: / janbeta
WEBSITE: www.janbeta.net
TWITCH: / thejanbeta
Equipment and tools I use are listed here: kit.co/janbeta
Thanks!
#JanBeta #Commodore #Amiga
The glue used for capacitors in power supplies is called Silastic(now called Dowsil i think),its made by Dow Corning. its there because the caps vibrate from frequency they handle not the fan. Silastic is the proper silicone to use since it contains no acetic acid like automotive and normal store bought silicones/rtv's. The acetic acid(think vinegar) in regular store bought silicone can corrode the aluminum can on capacitors. There are a few substitutes for Silastic from stores but they are hard to find.
a4000t can a hot glue gun be used?
@@MrSleepProductionsInc not recommended because its flammable(silastic silicone is not) and the psu can run warm at times and hot glue has a low melting point.
Interesting! Thank you for that information!
I did once put a capacitor the wrong way, one of the smaller ones. It did work fine, but after a week i did smell some burned electronics and the capacitor had died. It didn't exactly "explode", but it died. I replaced it, and put the new one the right way, and it worked.
Great video and good to see this was a future proofing of the original board and not just an upgrade that so many seem to be doing these days. I had the same type PSU as this one and decided the recap option too. Good to keep it original I think and these PSU's worked good enough in my opinion.
Favorite quote: "But it's pretty nice that it didn't explode right away." Classic!
Good job, Jan. Go ahead and apply silicon rubber between the capacitors, and around the base of the capacitors. Remember, this is a switching power supply. Those capacitors tend to vibrate because of the high frequencies, not because of the fan, lol. The "channel" down the middle of the PCB separates the high voltage side from the low voltage side. So, only the capacitors on the high voltage side need to be discharged. At least you have done this the correct way (using a resistor). Again, good job.
Well now that you pointed out the new hard drive and RAM, now I can't stop staring at it. :P
Yeah, me too! Especially as I have myself a A2000 with a Buddha IDE and A8MB-4 2Mb memory card, that don't want work together...
Great work Master Jan
Amazing you have a 120GB harddrive for an Amiga...my A1200 had a 120MB and I was blown away by this at the time...ALL that space!
Jan is a rock star!
16:15 "It's pretty nice that it didn't explode right away" LOL
"It's pretty nice that it didn't explode right away...." Best quote on a non explosion video!
680uf/200v caps are common and cheap on eBay. Several brands.
Readings of values higher than rated indicate a leaking capacitor. Modern caps (post 1970s) are seldom higher than marked. Many are just below. Old-time caps (1940s-60s) were frequently higher due to manufacturing tolerances (+/- 20%) being looser. Manufacturing got tighter after computers and precision manufacturing became common. Companies were able to cut waste by rolling them to exact values.
I really need to learn this skill some day.
Clicked "like" before seeing the video :))) guilty!
Makes two of us lol
Those old capacitors are actually pretty good spec especially considering their age! Smaller capacitors back then usually did have higher ESR. The capacitors you have replaced them with likely have even lower ESR than those, so the supply will be cleaner than it was before
very nice Jan, i now that people always have comments how you do stuff i a video, but this time i have to say something, the way you test a PSU, i never do it like that, i now capacitors are not that big of a problem in a PSU when there is something wrong, but you now you can better do that without the main board connected, so when something is wrong you do not create a bigger problem on the main board, but i have to say i like your video's Jan, i can relax wen i see someone else is doing the stuff that i also have to do sometimes.
I've had 2 large 420V caps in a PSU that i decided to just short out
it was such a loud bang that they made when i shorted them.
Yep, dont do that.. its a good way to destroy screwdrivers :) it can also damage the capacitors
Thumbs up. New or proper recapped PSU means better graphic and better sound.
Filter caps' capacitance isn't critical, you could use 1000uF/200V, modern ones are much smaller in size, so they'd easily fit.
It's definitely the ones on the secondary side that suffer the most, and the ones that you should replace. The big line side capacitors are usually fine. If you want to replace those, Kemet ELH or ELG series should be good, but check the dimensions.
Nice Vlog Jan it will give you peace of mind knowing that it's all new capacitors installed 🐯🐯Kim🐯🐯🐯
Hi Jan, I also have the experience that the capacitors are still ok even after decades. Best regards, Doktor64!
The big ones have to be replaced as well. It's more a story of their age, than anything. And those 2 big are not this expensive Jan ;)
Putting new glue on the capacitors after the recap is definitely recommended because the high frequency vibrations which they are subjected to. Second advice is to measure the ripple voltage under load before and after replacing capacitors to check if the recapping actually brought improvements
Aber ich möchte auf die hübsche Festplatten- und Speichererweiterung starren.
I don't know why I don't like the idea of having the capacitors so close together like that, but if it fits and works why not I suppose. I didn't know about ESR actually so thank you for the info there Jan. Oh and Good tip on discharging, I'm sure I would get myself with that sometimes.
When you leave your friends because you have to wake up early, but in reality you go home to watch a Jan Beta recap montage
You can use replacement caps that are both higher in capacitance and higher in voltage, not a problem in a PSU. So no need to find the exact values if they are hard to find. Modern caps are usually smaller in size for the same capacitance and voltage.
I shorted a charged 2200uF@230V, now that was a BANG (PSU for industrial 230VDC devices).
Much higher than specified capacitance measurement result usually indicates a pretty big leakage current.
Have you been watching Mr. Carelson's Lab?
@@mikebetz42 I certailny hope so, Mr. Carlson is pretty great :)
Jan Beta new video = like first, watch then! :D
Also you could go higher in rated voltage for the capacitors, that helps them somewhat with withstanding temperature. Also always use the highest temperature grade possible.
and, it works!!!! but it was working before so recap is fantastic... what i do usually is to use silicone like the one you use for bathroom for attach parts together. That is an excellent sealant and it also can't burn (and become conductive) so, it's excellent for electronics.
For the two main filter caps you don't have to use 680uF or 200 Volt. As long as you stay or go higher then the voltage rating and since they're filter caps you can go as high as 1000uF. Digikey has some Cornell Dubilier brand caps that are rated for 200V 105*F 820uF 20% tolerance for $4.08 each. They also have Nichicons for about 6 bucks each, same specs.
I just bought one and.. yeah the -5V rail linear regulator was dead so it put out the full -15V or so out. Luckily that does not get used much in this system... Guess I'll add some zeners in mine to protect against gross over voltage.
An filament light bulb also works to discharge the caps in fact a 100 watt light bulb makes a good dummy load to work older tv set's switch mode power supplies.
You are Awesome!!
Those small caps have typical (rather higher) ESR, but they rarely need smaller ESR, because they are in non critical places. Those 4700uF caps have considerably higher ESR than new Panasonic FR series (60-200miliOhms measured old Hicons vs dozen or so miliOhms max. in Panasonic FR) and higher capacitance than rated is usually sign of worn caps, so no: those big caps were old and should be replaced and probalby those smaller caps could stay.
Lower capacitance capacitor always have higher ESR... try to measure the new ones, you've used for replacement.
When I discharge caps, I usally use a 230v/60W light bulp.
that will work just fine as the bulb is effectively a power resistor
@@jaycee1980 Exactly. And you can see a blink, if there were a voltage.
"...it's really nice that it didn't explode right away..." Gotta love german optimism. ;)
I use a 40W incandescent light bulb to discharge the large bulk caps.
ESR a new Low impeadance 1uF 50V electrolytic will be in the order of 4 ohms @ 100kHz if it was perfect XC is 1.6 ohms at 100kHz
"It's pretty nice that it didn't explode right away." :o
just because a capacitor tested "ok" doesn't mean it is good...
I had a power supply on my PC, it didn't work with high loads anymore and I bought a new one... the guy I gave the old one recapped all, and it was all good again... capacitors tested individually for short time showed they "were good"... but we knew for sure they weren't good...
I think my A2000 needs to be recapped. The last time I used it (a couple of decades ago) it seemed a bit flaky after I had added in the network interface card.
I order from Okaphone in the netherlands, which a local shop for me. They order from farnell or digikey and can supply any capacitor and only use panasonic and other high quality brands. I've also ordered the 680uf 200v no problem. I'm not affiliated with Okaphone in any way. I've recapped an Amige 500 and its psu, 1084 monitor and am planning to recap my msx computers and c64.
This is great! I have the exact same power supply, but the 12v line is reading 7v, however all the other voltages are correct (5,-5,-12). I suspect a recap would not fix this issue.
I also am unable to find a schematic for this unit.
Great video as always!
Retro PC Hero ✋
Thank you very much Commodore for using Rubycon sparing no expense where it matters.
Quick question, can / wil you be filling in the empty slots for extended cards?.
Have you checked if you could replace the 200V/680µF Caps with 400V/390µF?
That should be possible in 230VAC as the voltage doubler is not requred and should not be used.
Might e something to look into in the future!
Nice. Good work. I just missed out on a budda ide. But then I need to get my 2000 working. It turned up and not too bad looking at it no major battery leek. Power supply good and steady on all voltages, yellow screen on boot. Reseated all chips but still no. So I’m thinking Agnus first then memory. (Yellow=bad cpu)
Jan, I don't know who else to ask, but I have a power supply. That the +12 and +5_User seem to have 0 ohms across. Is this normal. +12 and the normal +5 seem isolated.
Mein AMIGA 2000 raucht neuerdings hinten raus nach einiger Laufzeit, müsste wohl das Netzteil sein. Gibt's da neuere Ersatzteile oder muss ich Orignal Teile von Commodore suchen? Danke und Gruss aus der Schweiz ;-=)
Never short caps directly like you say. That was the first I learned about then, back in 1992/93.
Thank you for inspiring me to be an electronics technician, your videos are wonderful and I gradually learn by observing every detail. I hope you grow more and more, because you deserve it and more ^^
oh and by the way: If the Capacity is higher than the rated capacity, it can mean that its leaky.
That's why I don't like the Atlas ESR70 as it doesn't measure the leakage current of the Capacitors. Those cheapish eBay things do however...
Why not do a testrun without building it into the 2000 and measure the output? NIce vid btw! Thanks to you I have new Noctua build into my 4000 PSU :)
On a power supply, you usually would need to have a load on it to get a proper reading. You could rig up a test bench to create an artificial load, but for a single repair, it's kinda overkill.
@@arcanescroll sure, but to test if the caps will not explode I would think you just turn it on without the effort of building it in and connecting it to the mobo
@@tekk9995 And by turning it on without a load, you can cause wear and possible damage to the very capacitors you just installed. And, they wouldn't explode, it takes a lot more than that to cause a cap to explode.
Even though you were likely dealing with minimal values, isn’t it a really bad habit to get into, discharging caps with two hands? Isn’t that one of the many good reasons for using alligator clips; so that you can clip-ground one side, and then only have to probe the other side of your discharging tool with ONE HAND?
Hey, Jan! Are you sure about your list? I think that there are (3) 4700uF 10V....not (2)...
Drop everything!
How to save AMIGA and COMMODORE 5 1/4 3.5 files to my linux HD ...?
www.cbmstuff.com/proddetail.php?prod=SCP
@jan Do you have a good advice how to test a A2000 psu without an amiga? WHich lines to load?
I think you mainly have to load the 5V line, the others should start up without any extra load. There are quite a few different PSU models though so your mileage may vary.
@@JanBeta I put an old HD on the 12V and loaded the 5V with some high wattage (?) resistors (about 2,7Ohms) they did get a bit toasty but I only needed to check voltages. So worked great.
Die Elkos gibt es normalerweise problemlos bei voelkner oder digikey. Ich habe damit mehr als zehn 2000er Netzteile recapped.
Hallo Matthias, wie entlädst Du die Kondensatoren bevor Du ans "recappen" gehst?
Conrad ? The German elektronik-Apotheke ;-)
Jetzt musst du das Teil dann wegen zwei caps nochmal komplett auseinandernehmen .. Wieso nich dann doch lieber noch ein paar Tage warten, bis die Großen da sind? ;) Macht auf jeden Fall Sinn, das ganze Netzteil zu recappen... bei einem Gerät von 1987 :D 👍🏻
Ich würde auch das Mainboard angehen.. Egal, ob die Elkos „gestresst“ sind.. Alt sind sie und trocknen ja aus nach vielen Jahren.. und verursachen nen Kurzen ;(
✌🏻
The big caps are old too
Nice video :) But why be nice to the caps if you are replacing them?
Jan wasn't replacing the large 200V caps (yet) and so I suspect they were the only ones he really cared about being gentle with.
Hallo Jan, wo hast Du die 680uF 200V (2x) gekauft? Gruß und Dank, Elmar
Die habe ich am Ende tatsächlich bei eBay besorgt, weil ich sie bei meinen regulären Quellen nicht finden konnte (Reichelt/Conrad).
Hallo @@JanBeta
danke für die Antwort. eBay ist mir zu heikel.
Ich bin aber inzwischen bei www.mouser.de/ fündig geworden. Die scheinen so ziemlich alles zu haben, was aktuell auf dem Markt noch hergestellt wird.
Ich hatte schon mit anderen Komponenten wie Einplatinen-PCs mit denen zu tun und hatte nur gute Erfahrungen.
Gruß und Dank
Elmar
Incorrect number of capacitors:
4700uF 10V should be 3x, not 2x
What brand of capacitors do you use?
Great video... I'm not knowledgeable on Commodore hardware parts purchasing. Does anyone know where I could get a fair price on a Vic 20 2-prong power supply? It's an original OG Vic 20.
as you discharge the caps - they get heavier.
Ich hätte mir denken müssen, dass sie das haben sollten, aber ich habe noch nie Kondensatoren bei Conrad gesehen.
Awesome! :D
Great video:D
So basically you have replaced one set of good capacitors with another set of good capacitors, right?
Replaced maybe still good caps with known good caps.
Maybe I missed this, but why didn't you replace the 200V caps?
The only two he could get local went missing during the shipment
Have you tried arrow for the capacitors?
I think I'm the fourth one hello jan
❤️❤️❤️❤️
versuch mal polin die haben auch viel elektrik zeug.. da hab ich meine c64 sicherungen her..
voelkner is auch n guter shop für elektronik zeugs
pollin heisse die. Was Bauteile angeht find ich reichelt.de am besten.
@@Conenion reichelt persönlich find ich auf grund der versandkosten mies.
hi how did you make that lead please
The lead for discharging? It's just a large cement resistor (I think 100R) with a bit of salvaged mains wire and a banana plug on one and, a crocodile clamp on the other.
@@JanBeta thank you
and golden rule is watch the polarity
Circuit diagram?
You should swap out that crappy upscaler for a cheap $15 GBS8200 with GBScontrol firmware. Night and day difference.
Yes, the upscaler isn't great. I'm saving up on a better solution at the moment, especially important as I recently started streaming on Twitch, too.
I ignored it like it wasn't there. I don't even remember what "it" was.
Hallo Jan,
at.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-bauelemente/kondensatoren/aluminium-elektrolytkondensatoren/?applied-dimensions=4291708972,4291447515
Hier könntest du esie finden. LG Erwin und mach weiter so.
486 likes :P
8th ! Hehehe
First!!!!
Sad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love you Jan but I can't stand you saying "pretty much" and inserting "like" into all your sentences, all the time. An 'E'merican must have taught you to speak English. Unsubscribed. Sad, but it was driving me "pretty much" "like" mad! :)
5600uf for a 4700uf cap is not that great, that is more then 10%, and from what i know is that more or less then 10% of the uF number makes the caps bad also, and they are 12% more then 4700uf.
Great video:D