I recommend trying Strong Greens and Strong Reds, but they also offer many other amazing products, such as protein powders, nutrition bars and energy supplements too. shop.bpnsupps.com/koarothman
Dude, this might sound weird, but I love these quieter videos where you are just talking with us, you know? explaining things and how you see them. It's nice. I'd love to see more like this. Thanks for your content!
Years ago, on a visit with a friend who lived in Hawaii, I paddled out at Queens. Nice four-five foot waves. I was really apprehensive, being a Haole and all, so I took my place with a bunch of locals. They were fine. We talked a little bit. I didn’t paddle for several waves I could have, letting the locals have them. Eventually a nice set came through and one of them said, “Go ahead,” and I did. It was just a matter of showing the proper respect and exercising the appropriate discretion. It was a nice day and quite instructive.
@@feelinghealingfrequences7179 You’re right, of course, but it’s a difference of degree, not of kind. Working your way into the lineup means paying your dues, and the dues at Pipeline are a lot higher than at Waikiki.
I'm not 100% local, but I lived on the North Shore for about 4-5 years. At least my experience was not being a punk about things and showing aloha on and off the water goes a long way. I'm in no way a good surfer but I still remember numerous times when local people would put me in the rotation, block for me, and help me catch waves. All the talk about localism over the years in many cases started with someone being a punk when they should actually be more humble and friendly. At least in Hawaii that's been my experience.
Most local Hawaiians in my experience are actually alot more friendly towards haloes than people give them credit for. It’s all about the vibe you bring to them. If you come at them with a negative or aggressive vibe they will put you in your place. Come at them with a respectful and humble vibe and they will be your best friend. That’s been my experience anyways.
Very true, there's nothing better than being in the water, don't understand people that get in road rage mode while surfing, I can understand there are some disrespectful kooks and overcrowded places like Malibu. Hawaii and Cali have many spots to go around, just being nice and respectful to people that have lived and surfed there for ages shouldn't be inconvenient, it's great meeting new people. The unwritten rules (sometimes written at some beach access) are to keep everyone safe and keep somewhat of an order to have a good time. I guess confrontation and drama tend to be the only things that spreads rapidly on social media. Overall 95% of people out in the surf are going to be friendly.
The reason the sand in Hawaii moves so much (aside from the giant waves) is because it is coral sand. The grains are large and have irregular shapes which are more easily moved.
I once accidentally paddled out to Pipeline thinking I was paddling out to Gums. It was a funky NE 2-4ft swell and the lineup was shifted farther east than usual. When I realized I was at Pipeline and not Gums, I got a bit anxious and tried not to draw too much attention to myself. I felt an intense energy and a sense of being outside my lane and tried not be an obvious kook. After about 10 mins in the lineup, I paddled east to Gums.
“So many waves of emotions out there” Love that line for so many reasons! Can relate in so many ways. But as a metaphor for other aspects of my life. Thanks Koa. Keep ripping on and off the waves/(of emotions!)
Great episode Koa!!! So interesting to hear the inner workings of Pipe from one of the locals. Thank you! It was also very interesting to see the North Shore on a lonely summer day.
This video is why I subscribe to Koa. You've always been behind the scenes of surfing which is unique vs other channels. I feel sometimes you drift away and dont have as much content and just some surf highlights which are also great, but I can see highlights anywhere. Not to say I dont like those as I do. . . Especially your highlights at Teahupo'o and pipe!!! Im sure you do it to balance and target audiences but to me, this one is it. I loved it. PLEASE ADD SOME NEW MERCH!!! ALSO AUTOGRAPH POSTERS LIKE J.O.B!
No one has mentioned the Pipeline SIGN!? It has "The Rothman Family" and "The O'Brien" family on it also. Now that PROVES who the locals really are. GREAT video as always Koa and Jack! :)
I’m a Cali dude and I remember waiting for like 45 min as a newbie kook, but then I heard “THIS ONE IS YOURS, GO GO GO!!“ I got a nice little ride in, and it taught me that you can wait your turn and by doing that the pro or experts will put you on.
I love to watch systems and trying to figure out the pattern. I've never be able to make sense of surf line ups or Amsterdam bike intersections. I know there is something at work but I can't see it. Thanks for the little insight into that world.
thank you so much for this! always wanted to know how it worked at big crowded lineups like pipe, i dont surf but ive skated 20 years and its very simular when we go to a new bowl and theres a hesh sesh. sometimes you have to snake a local just to establish some authority when theres 30 people skating one bowl
I was house sitting for a few months in Hawaii when I was younger. I always wanted to move there myself.... I wish I had. I miss that energy. Still here watching you live the dream Koa!
Here's kind of a lineup card for Pipe for those of you asking. Yes of course I am forgetting someone somewhere. Yes the lower I go the order is messy. Feel free to add! Approx. Local Pecking order(Active Surfers): Top 3 dogs: Michael Ho Jamie O'Brien John John Florence 2nd tier(Kind of in order by not exactly): Kalani Chapman Makua Rothman Kelly Slater Mason Ho Nathan Florence Koa Rothman Ivan Florence Eli Olson Josh & Seth Moniz Mikey Redd Billy Kemper Mikey Bruneau Mark Healey Zeke Lau Kala Grace Barron Mamiya Lucas Godfrey Finn McGill 3rd Tier(Locals and foreigners that spend winter at Pipe. Of course when CT surfers are there they get some waves but I won't list them all. No real order besides the first few: Koa Smith Jordy Smith Reef McIntosh Balaram Stack Eli Hanneman Makana Pang Sheldon Paishon Anthony Walsh Ela Stewart And 100 more guys after that... Women: Moana Wong CoCo Ho
Faaark me... Kinda intimidating list of who's who there mate. When you put in the unknown chargers then a houlie just doesn't get a look at anything Move along little boy. Looks more stacked than Snapper to me.
@@Jeremy_0587 Oh shoot. I actually had Makua towards the top of the 2nd tier but I was cutting and moving guys around I forgot to re-add. I thought about Kala but he isn't really out there on a regular basis. Still has pull in the lineup when he is out there however.
Back in 2002 I was a board caddy for a female friend competing at Pipe. One afternoon she had the last heat and I had to get a wave in as the heat finished. I quickly paddled into the lineup and got the wave of my life uncontested. So glad I didn’t blow it, but I never got anything close to that quality for the next month trying to adhere to the rules of the line up. Nothing has changed since then and I’m glad the locals get the run of the joint cause the NS is a madhouse over winter.
I just scored a 'no rain no rainbows' shirt from the sunrise shack in okinawa! Stoked to find it while wandering around! Aloha from a central cal traveler!
Big winter swells strip the sand away from the dunes, tides / small surf gradually bring the sand back to the beach, sun dries the sand and the summer breezes move the sand back to the dunes - constant cycle as long as the dunes are left alone.
Where do the pros/semi pros that aren't locals but have a name sit in the line-up in comparison to the locals? Do they battle with the blow ins forever or do they eventually get into the rotation?
Don't forget about the days when there's nobody out...or when your struggling to catch one for hours and your buddy comes scores 3 back to back in 30 minutes or less not burning anyone...crazy unbelievable days out there but you gotta put in the time and love the good as much as the bad...love those easy long roll ins off 2nd reef 💙💙💙I love you Hawaii💙💙💙
Great analysis of the pecking order at Pipe Koa. Makes perfect sense brother!!! You guys live there and deserve all the respect!!! Pipe is a magical place and beautiful as well. ❤ 🏄♂️ 👍
Sounds fun. I used to be an addicted windsurfer in the 80's and part of the 90's but we had a lot more room to share than you surfers. Snowboarding in deep powder in the beginning of the sport was a close 2nd but nothing compare to windsurfing in Baja, the Gorge, or Maui on a big wind day. I imagine surfing would be better honestly but I didn't live close enough to the good waves. Respect. A great piano teachers said that surfers live in the moment and are passionate and love what they do like us musicians. After listening to you, yea, you get it. Have a great Winter!
Your description of catching an amazing set wave but feeling the residual frustration of the busy lineup is probably one of the best explanations of modern surfing I've ever heard. That mix of emotions is so hard to control, it's actually what killed surfing for me. Turning up at my local break on the first decent swell of the season after a summer of no waves only to see it rammed with visitors who never pay any respect. Just the thought of it annoys me...
I get you, man. I'm a really easy going person but nothing annoys me quite like the entitlement and ignorance shown by SOME visitors to my local breaks... It's why finding/surfing at lesser known spots and hitting them on a good day is one of life's great feelings!
@@joeboonmusic4004 In a way that's true, but my free time is less these days as I get older and I tended to look for quality over quantity. These days lesser known spots are lesser known because they're generally not as a good as the main breaks. Surfing in a quiet spot is good, but there's always the lingering thought of how much better it would be at the main break... For instance if a traveller comes to our area then it means they have plenty of time on their hands, they can go somewhere quiet, take their time to explore. Instead they just roll up at the main break, jump out of their van and paddle out straight into the line-up with the expectation of getting loads of waves. They've crowded an already busy line-up, they could go somewhere else and get 100's more waves and they have loads of time to find something. Most locals are working, have families or school, our time window is limited and we want to maximise our enjoyment on our own waves. We're living in an age of effortless, selfish and entitled gratification.
@@u4d18 Unfortunately I agree, especially with your last statement... The entitlement is palpable in many cases. That's why I love the days over here when it's dangerous and really pumping and you see everyone stay at home back in London with their tails between their legs hahaha... But yeah, totally get you. We have a bunch of naughty little spots down in N Devon, Cornwall and Ireland that are far quieter but still great (one of my favourite waves in the UK and Ireland is only really known to locals) so we find things... Guessing you're in the US somewhere?
And it's just getting worse and worse. I am just so glad I live where it's kind of unpredictable, cold, and kind of dangerous in the right day. Some built in crowd control. But still.
@@alfonindatube yeah in Florida there are so few good breaks that you can surf there for years and not even meet all the locals. Every jetty has 1500 guys that all consider themselves part of the crew.
thanks for showing the board. i had no idea kainoa would be on it but he's always been given legendary status.. tom the lifeguard must be a legend too..
Thanks for explaining. I wondered after watching Malibu, what percentage is about being local and what is about being a really capable surfer? Also, how long did it take you guys to get to the point where you have priority in the line up, since you all grew up there I just wondered and I bet it felt great to get there after all the work you guys put in surfing. Thanks Koa and Jack!
I wonder what the local discussion is like about what the future holds for pipeline if the crowds keep growing to an unsuitable level. Eventually i would assume that the location just won't be able to function properly without some changes to how the crowds are handled.
I loved this video and the explanations. I would say these are great for us that have never been to Hawaii nor know what professional surfers really experience and ho it works. Thank you!!!
@KoaRothman Assuming you charge barrels at your home break (CA) but never surfed pipe out of respect for local crews (even tho I've surfed all around pipe when not too crowded).. how and/or when would you try to get a classic pipe wave in winter? Again -- assuming we understand territories etc - how would you recommend approaching it?
PS: Pure Aloha every time I've ever surfed the North Shore .. made me feel guilty actually since I guess we're more agro in Nor Cal (which is not something I approve of, just how it seems to be)
What is that strong green, Moringa powder? That stuff is so good and healthy. I too love all the talking videos in between surf hearing the surroundings of the beach life. Now *This Is Livin'* 🤙🌈
I was out at pipe on about an 8' day. I was right on the peak as a big set came in and called the left, claiming the wave. I'm a goofy foot and the guy on the shoulder called for it too, but I was in position and took off. He thought I was going right (the other direction) and was trying to call me off. We both dropped in vertical on this macking double overhead+ wave and just smashed straight into each other, over the falls, tangled up. It feels like you're being thrown from a roof into the shallow end of a pool, like there's no water under you. My 2 surfboard outer fins somehow slammed into my face leaving a gash above each eye, bleeding. I was rattled and regaining my bearings, the other guy was kinda aggro thinking I dropped in on him. If you aren't recognized as someone who surfs there a lot you could wait weeks to get a good wave.
Ive seen JOB take 6 waves back to back, do people get mad at him for doing that? One of the reasons i dont surf is because there are so few waves and so many people trying to ride them
Hola🤙🏼, Koa you & J.J., Florence are supposed to be de-best beast wave riders nowadays but now you are pulling slightly, ahead of him it is a jury factor with him now.
Great vid koa, thanks for explaining everything, it's the same at my beach , hb pier, we have a pecking order and it works well ( for California) aloha bro
I just came here to see the comments. I don't think that only happens in Hawaii. All classic waves around the world might have a similar system. Locals first and the leftovers for the rest of the people. Surfing a classic wave in its best days is nearly impossible. Locals are very anxious a do not let anything go unridden. I used to go to less known places, where from time to time you can get good waves and being alone rather than being with the crowds. I really can't stand crowds, and even less when surfing.
Not even classic waves. There are no-where shit-hole spots near me where there'll be a peak that only a small group of people regularly surf and people get protective, which I can understand, but you only have to surf there a few times to realise that as long as you don't take the piss people are generally fine. Paddle out, say hello, take your time, give up at least 3 or 4 good ones before you seriously scratch for anything, and most people will be chill.
Uncle Mike is #1 no doubt and if Carrisa is out I'm sure she takes top spot because lady's first. Just my opinion on Carrisa but I'm sure any of the gang would let her go or even better paddle her into anything she wants. But no doubt Uncle Mike gets what ever he wants and I'm sure life guard Mikey B is top 5 from what I saw this winter.
Before I even start this video I'm sure it's incredible, I must say that's the stance I've messaged you about so insane how you drive straight down that front foot bra so commented awesome surfing Koa super mad respect 🙏, ps I rode pipe a few mud 70s then north to kauai respect 🙏
I’ve heard Gerry Lopez speak about why he left Hawaii for Oregon. Seems he was just fed up with the Line-Up priority BS in Hawaii and California. No priority issues when you are kite surfing.
Or surfing rivers. But Oregon has a few notorious localized spots. I heard about a local who grabbed a boulder and dropped it on on an "outsider's" board while it was on the ground. Turns out the guy whose board was broken was a cop and the local got busted big time.
I recommend trying Strong Greens and Strong Reds, but they also offer many other amazing products, such as protein powders, nutrition bars and energy supplements too.
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Love the collab! Love you and Nick’s content. Cool stuff!
What about HUEL? You also swooned about that company, awhile back. Don't companies just pay YOU to pitch their stuff, Koa?
@@SuiGenerisAbbie hater
@@danbevins7959 Silly reply!
Aloha Savages!
Dude, this might sound weird, but I love these quieter videos where you are just talking with us, you know? explaining things and how you see them. It's nice. I'd love to see more like this. Thanks for your content!
Years ago, on a visit with a friend who lived in Hawaii, I paddled out at Queens. Nice four-five foot waves. I was really apprehensive, being a Haole and all, so I took my place with a bunch of locals. They were fine. We talked a little bit. I didn’t paddle for several waves I could have, letting the locals have them. Eventually a nice set came through and one of them said, “Go ahead,” and I did. It was just a matter of showing the proper respect and exercising the appropriate discretion. It was a nice day and quite instructive.
talking about pipeline and back door here
way diff
@@feelinghealingfrequences7179 You’re right, of course, but it’s a difference of degree, not of kind. Working your way into the lineup means paying your dues, and the dues at Pipeline are a lot higher than at Waikiki.
i think you should be respectful to anyone anywhere. surfers who are territorial are barbaric. not cool.
@@grahamjarman There are only so many waves. Gotta be a system.
@@blairjohnson6014 nothing wrong w a system. im talkin about the surfers w the "u shuldnt be here/this is our break" mentality
I'm not 100% local, but I lived on the North Shore for about 4-5 years. At least my experience was not being a punk about things and showing aloha on and off the water goes a long way. I'm in no way a good surfer but I still remember numerous times when local people would put me in the rotation, block for me, and help me catch waves. All the talk about localism over the years in many cases started with someone being a punk when they should actually be more humble and friendly. At least in Hawaii that's been my experience.
Most local Hawaiians in my experience are actually alot more friendly towards haloes than people give them credit for. It’s all about the vibe you bring to them. If you come at them with a negative or aggressive vibe they will put you in your place. Come at them with a respectful and humble vibe and they will be your best friend. That’s been my experience anyways.
I throw a shaka and say hello, and then I wait lol.
And I think this is true in all over the world and not specially for surfing.
Very true, there's nothing better than being in the water, don't understand people that get in road rage mode while surfing, I can understand there are some disrespectful kooks and overcrowded places like Malibu. Hawaii and Cali have many spots to go around, just being nice and respectful to people that have lived and surfed there for ages shouldn't be inconvenient, it's great meeting new people. The unwritten rules (sometimes written at some beach access) are to keep everyone safe and keep somewhat of an order to have a good time. I guess confrontation and drama tend to be the only things that spreads rapidly on social media. Overall 95% of people out in the surf are going to be friendly.
good post.
There is still some hope for visitors!
🙂
The reason the sand in Hawaii moves so much (aside from the giant waves) is because it is coral sand. The grains are large and have irregular shapes which are more easily moved.
I once accidentally paddled out to Pipeline thinking I was paddling out to Gums. It was a funky NE 2-4ft swell and the lineup was shifted farther east than usual. When I realized I was at Pipeline and not Gums, I got a bit anxious and tried not to draw too much attention to myself. I felt an intense energy and a sense of being outside my lane and tried not be an obvious kook. After about 10 mins in the lineup, I paddled east to Gums.
That happened to me my first day in Hawaii
should've went for it no one owns the waves, those locals are mostly rich kids btw
So in a nutshell:
Koa and his friends get all the waves. Everyone else, dont bother. Nice to have a gangster warlord as your dad.
“So many waves of emotions out there”
Love that line for so many reasons!
Can relate in so many ways. But as a metaphor for other aspects of my life.
Thanks Koa. Keep ripping on and off the waves/(of emotions!)
Bro going through waves of emotions while riding some of the best waves ever? What a roller coaster! Thanks for sharing 👍
Great episode Koa!!! So interesting to hear the inner workings of Pipe from one of the locals. Thank you! It was also very interesting to see the North Shore on a lonely summer day.
This video is why I subscribe to Koa. You've always been behind the scenes of surfing which is unique vs other channels. I feel sometimes you drift away and dont have as much content and just some surf highlights which are also great, but I can see highlights anywhere. Not to say I dont like those as I do. . . Especially your highlights at Teahupo'o and pipe!!! Im sure you do it to balance and target audiences but to me, this one is it. I loved it. PLEASE ADD SOME NEW MERCH!!! ALSO AUTOGRAPH POSTERS LIKE J.O.B!
No one has mentioned the Pipeline SIGN!? It has "The Rothman Family" and "The O'Brien" family on it also. Now that PROVES who the locals really are. GREAT video as always Koa and Jack! :)
Well said Dan. I couldn't agree more. Koa is getting better and being at ease on camera too. It can't be easy 'talking to the whole world of surfing'
With all the amazesick content you've put out in the last how many yrs, This is just straight sick, hands down one of my favs... All love from the PNW
This is the content I'm here for. Nicely done.
Great vid man. Those explanations are pretty cool for us! Deep dives on the subject are always keen!
I’m a Cali dude and I remember waiting for like 45 min as a newbie kook, but then I heard “THIS ONE IS YOURS, GO GO GO!!“ I got a nice little ride in, and it taught me that you can wait your turn and by doing that the pro or experts will put you on.
Thanks Koa for your explanation of Pipe and personal thoughts, very interesting!
Best vid in a while. Koa and Jack dropping knowledge is the best part of this channel.
I love to watch systems and trying to figure out the pattern. I've never be able to make sense of surf line ups or Amsterdam bike intersections. I know there is something at work but I can't see it. Thanks for the little insight into that world.
thank you so much for this! always wanted to know how it worked at big crowded lineups like pipe, i dont surf but ive skated 20 years and its very simular when we go to a new bowl and theres a hesh sesh. sometimes you have to snake a local just to establish some authority when theres 30 people skating one bowl
I was house sitting for a few months in Hawaii when I was younger. I always wanted to move there myself.... I wish I had. I miss that energy. Still here watching you live the dream Koa!
Here's kind of a lineup card for Pipe for those of you asking. Yes of course I am forgetting someone somewhere. Yes the lower I go the order is messy. Feel free to add!
Approx. Local Pecking order(Active Surfers):
Top 3 dogs:
Michael Ho
Jamie O'Brien
John John Florence
2nd tier(Kind of in order by not exactly):
Kalani Chapman
Makua Rothman
Kelly Slater
Mason Ho
Nathan Florence
Koa Rothman
Ivan Florence
Eli Olson
Josh & Seth Moniz
Mikey Redd
Billy Kemper
Mikey Bruneau
Mark Healey
Zeke Lau
Kala Grace
Barron Mamiya
Lucas Godfrey
Finn McGill
3rd Tier(Locals and foreigners that spend winter at Pipe. Of course when CT surfers are there they get some waves but I won't list them all. No real order besides the first few:
Koa Smith
Jordy Smith
Reef McIntosh
Balaram Stack
Eli Hanneman
Makana Pang
Sheldon Paishon
Anthony Walsh
Ela Stewart
And 100 more guys after that...
Women:
Moana Wong
CoCo Ho
Faaark me...
Kinda intimidating list of who's who there mate.
When you put in the unknown chargers then a houlie just doesn't get a look at anything
Move along little boy.
Looks more stacked than Snapper to me.
thanks for this pretty cool
Lol can’t forget Makua and Kala Alexander
yup, probably about right. Long wait for any visitor.
@@Jeremy_0587 Oh shoot. I actually had Makua towards the top of the 2nd tier but I was cutting and moving guys around I forgot to re-add. I thought about Kala but he isn't really out there on a regular basis. Still has pull in the lineup when he is out there however.
Back in 2002 I was a board caddy for a female friend competing at Pipe. One afternoon she had the last heat and I had to get a wave in as the heat finished. I quickly paddled into the lineup and got the wave of my life uncontested. So glad I didn’t blow it, but I never got anything close to that quality for the next month trying to adhere to the rules of the line up. Nothing has changed since then and I’m glad the locals get the run of the joint cause the NS is a madhouse over winter.
Koa, loved hearing your POV on the lineup. You explained it really well.. Thanks!
This video was different, I really liked it Koa
Kind of thinking do these locals show the same respect when visiting other countries 🎂
Actually loved this video. I’ve had these questions for years. Love the surf videos but it’s nice to see this style as well!
I just scored a 'no rain no rainbows' shirt from the sunrise shack in okinawa! Stoked to find it while wandering around! Aloha from a central cal traveler!
Thank you, Koa Celsius drink has got me flowing, and a much better less jittery way!
Big winter swells strip the sand away from the dunes, tides / small surf gradually bring the sand back to the beach, sun dries the sand and the summer breezes move the sand back to the dunes - constant cycle as long as the dunes are left alone.
Where do the pros/semi pros that aren't locals but have a name sit in the line-up in comparison to the locals? Do they battle with the blow ins forever or do they eventually get into the rotation?
The sit where the best wave are hoping to not get stuffed while still respecting local rotation
Really enjoy yours and Nate’s channels. Keep it up!
Best description I've heard so far.
Koa, this was a great vid. Showing differences of the beaches between winter and summer.
Don't forget about the days when there's nobody out...or when your struggling to catch one for hours and your buddy comes scores 3 back to back in 30 minutes or less not burning anyone...crazy unbelievable days out there but you gotta put in the time and love the good as much as the bad...love those easy long roll ins off 2nd reef 💙💙💙I love you Hawaii💙💙💙
There is days with nobody out??
Cool insight and total respect. Now back to seeking out my remote 2-3’ ers to charge;). Keep it poppin’
Great analysis of the pecking order at Pipe Koa. Makes perfect sense brother!!! You guys live there and deserve all the respect!!! Pipe is a magical place and beautiful as well. ❤ 🏄♂️ 👍
So stoked to be out for winter current. Thanks for the breakdown of the line up.
Sounds fun. I used to be an addicted windsurfer in the 80's and part of the 90's but we had a lot more room to share than you surfers. Snowboarding in deep powder in the beginning of the sport was a close 2nd but nothing compare to windsurfing in Baja, the Gorge, or Maui on a big wind day. I imagine surfing would be better honestly but I didn't live close enough to the good waves. Respect. A great piano teachers said that surfers live in the moment and are passionate and love what they do like us musicians. After listening to you, yea, you get it. Have a great Winter!
Your description of catching an amazing set wave but feeling the residual frustration of the busy lineup is probably one of the best explanations of modern surfing I've ever heard. That mix of emotions is so hard to control, it's actually what killed surfing for me. Turning up at my local break on the first decent swell of the season after a summer of no waves only to see it rammed with visitors who never pay any respect. Just the thought of it annoys me...
I get you, man. I'm a really easy going person but nothing annoys me quite like the entitlement and ignorance shown by SOME visitors to my local breaks... It's why finding/surfing at lesser known spots and hitting them on a good day is one of life's great feelings!
@@joeboonmusic4004 In a way that's true, but my free time is less these days as I get older and I tended to look for quality over quantity. These days lesser known spots are lesser known because they're generally not as a good as the main breaks. Surfing in a quiet spot is good, but there's always the lingering thought of how much better it would be at the main break... For instance if a traveller comes to our area then it means they have plenty of time on their hands, they can go somewhere quiet, take their time to explore. Instead they just roll up at the main break, jump out of their van and paddle out straight into the line-up with the expectation of getting loads of waves. They've crowded an already busy line-up, they could go somewhere else and get 100's more waves and they have loads of time to find something. Most locals are working, have families or school, our time window is limited and we want to maximise our enjoyment on our own waves. We're living in an age of effortless, selfish and entitled gratification.
@@u4d18 Unfortunately I agree, especially with your last statement... The entitlement is palpable in many cases. That's why I love the days over here when it's dangerous and really pumping and you see everyone stay at home back in London with their tails between their legs hahaha... But yeah, totally get you. We have a bunch of naughty little spots down in N Devon, Cornwall and Ireland that are far quieter but still great (one of my favourite waves in the UK and Ireland is only really known to locals) so we find things... Guessing you're in the US somewhere?
And it's just getting worse and worse. I am just so glad I live where it's kind of unpredictable, cold, and kind of dangerous in the right day. Some built in crowd control. But still.
@@alfonindatube yeah in Florida there are so few good breaks that you can surf there for years and not even meet all the locals. Every jetty has 1500 guys that all consider themselves part of the crew.
great job articulating this Koa. Keep it real. Keep livin.
One More! I will have to try the reds and the greens here soon!
thanks for showing the board. i had no idea kainoa would be on it but he's always been given legendary status.. tom the lifeguard must be a legend too..
It's truly amazing how that sand moves mother earth is alive & the forces of nature are breathtaking 🤙🏼
BPN greens and protein are pretty awesome glad you're partnering w them
Good video. I’ve never heard someone break it down like that. Must feel really carefree once you’re at a less crowded spot and you can just charge.
Thanks for explaining. I wondered after watching Malibu, what percentage is about being local and what is about being a really capable surfer? Also, how long did it take you guys to get to the point where you have priority in the line up, since you all grew up there I just wondered and I bet it felt great to get there after all the work you guys put in surfing. Thanks Koa and Jack!
You know koa and his boys definitely have priority
Really enjoyed this one, thanks.
I wonder what the local discussion is like about what the future holds for pipeline if the crowds keep growing to an unsuitable level. Eventually i would assume that the location just won't be able to function properly without some changes to how the crowds are handled.
Just talking to the camera. It felt like being there. More like this.
Let Eli know we miss him. I respect him taking time off. It's time to come back.
just sparked up my strong greens
Excellent analysis, cheers
Great video and nicely edited
What happens if you're up in rotation amongst your friends but the Jamie is going on the wave? Who gets priority then?
Jamie bulldogs and takes the wave. He's #2 in the lineup second only to Michael Ho.
So during the summer you can just go swimming out there?
I loved this video and the explanations. I would say these are great for us that have never been to Hawaii nor know what professional surfers really experience and ho it works. Thank you!!!
A BIG HUG FROM BARCELONA KOA FRIEND🤙
@KoaRothman Assuming you charge barrels at your home break (CA) but never surfed pipe out of respect for local crews (even tho I've surfed all around pipe when not too crowded).. how and/or when would you try to get a classic pipe wave in winter? Again -- assuming we understand territories etc - how would you recommend approaching it?
PS: Pure Aloha every time I've ever surfed the North Shore .. made me feel guilty actually since I guess we're more agro in Nor Cal (which is not something I approve of, just how it seems to be)
Loving this.
Please share more how the lineup works. I’m still little confused.
Appreciate the info. As a non surfer, I always wondered how it worked
What is that strong green, Moringa powder? That stuff is so good and healthy. I too love all the talking videos in between surf hearing the surroundings of the beach life. Now *This Is Livin'* 🤙🌈
Or grab a 9' soft top log and do some crowd control.😜(as Jamie calls it)
lol...
Great episode! It’s one of my favorite channels! Does J.O.B..has own lineup?😅
I was out at pipe on about an 8' day. I was right on the peak as a big set came in and called the left, claiming the wave. I'm a goofy foot and the guy on the shoulder called for it too, but I was in position and took off. He thought I was going right (the other direction) and was trying to call me off. We both dropped in vertical on this macking double overhead+ wave and just smashed straight into each other, over the falls, tangled up. It feels like you're being thrown from a roof into the shallow end of a pool, like there's no water under you. My 2 surfboard outer fins somehow slammed into my face leaving a gash above each eye, bleeding. I was rattled and regaining my bearings, the other guy was kinda aggro thinking I dropped in on him. If you aren't recognized as someone who surfs there a lot you could wait weeks to get a good wave.
Sounds like you dropped in on him
@@sidneydona846 sounds like you don't surf and reading comprehension challenges
@@nextari nah..you dropped in on em
We need a "THIS IS LIVIN" black tank top for men (high quality material).
You should do a q&a about the pipe lineup
Rockin the BPN now? Been using their stuff for a while and their protein powders all taste amazing!! :)
That was a better explanation of pipe line ups
Ive seen JOB take 6 waves back to back, do people get mad at him for doing that?
One of the reasons i dont surf is because there are so few waves and so many people trying to ride them
thanks for sharing this pipe line up,
You’re roking itttt!!!!
thanks, very cool locals perspective.
thanks for making stuff!
Awesome explanation
Excellent insights and humanity
Hola🤙🏼, Koa you & J.J., Florence are supposed to be de-best beast wave riders nowadays but now you are pulling slightly, ahead of him it is a jury factor with him now.
So you're saying I'm not going to get any waves at pipe 🤣🤙
Anybody know why Eli quit posting on his vlog. Always found his posts very well done
Thanks for the info!
Every wave is fair game
Love this stuff !!!!
Sick video!
Great vid koa, thanks for explaining everything, it's the same at my beach , hb pier, we have a pecking order and it works well ( for California) aloha bro
I just came here to see the comments. I don't think that only happens in Hawaii. All classic waves around the world might have a similar system. Locals first and the leftovers for the rest of the people.
Surfing a classic wave in its best days is nearly impossible. Locals are very anxious a do not let anything go unridden.
I used to go to less known places, where from time to time you can get good waves and being alone rather than being with the crowds. I really can't stand crowds, and even less when surfing.
Not even classic waves. There are no-where shit-hole spots near me where there'll be a peak that only a small group of people regularly surf and people get protective, which I can understand, but you only have to surf there a few times to realise that as long as you don't take the piss people are generally fine. Paddle out, say hello, take your time, give up at least 3 or 4 good ones before you seriously scratch for anything, and most people will be chill.
Really really good content!!!
Uncle Mike is #1 no doubt and if Carrisa is out I'm sure she takes top spot because lady's first. Just my opinion on Carrisa but I'm sure any of the gang would let her go or even better paddle her into anything she wants. But no doubt Uncle Mike gets what ever he wants and I'm sure life guard Mikey B is top 5 from what I saw this winter.
def a dream of mine to surf there on a crummy smaller day when i'm not takin any locals waves just to feel what it's like.
Now I'm ready to join the line up at pipe.
Cool insight. Thanks! 🤙
Before I even start this video I'm sure it's incredible, I must say that's the stance I've messaged you about so insane how you drive straight down that front foot bra so commented awesome surfing Koa super mad respect 🙏, ps I rode pipe a few mud 70s then north to kauai respect 🙏
are there still fights on a busy day ?
More vids like this bruz...
I will just sit on shore and drink my kava and enjoy the show
I’ve heard Gerry Lopez speak about why he left Hawaii for Oregon. Seems he was just fed up with the Line-Up priority BS in Hawaii and California. No priority issues when you are kite surfing.
Or surfing rivers. But Oregon has a few notorious localized spots. I heard about a local who grabbed a boulder and dropped it on on an "outsider's" board while it was on the ground. Turns out the guy whose board was broken was a cop and the local got busted big time.
Thanks for that
Cool dude…I’ll never even paddle out. Can I still come chill and grab some memories?
what up koa cheers mate
Can you explain how the Malibu lineup works?
Does it work?
It doesn’t
i just keep driving to county line
@@kavansurf not sure what changed but county been non stop close outs recently. Might be better on west swells.
the lineup rules on malibu is go for any wave you want even if someone else is on it
This is cool and interesting. What gives someone priority?