Expensive eBay DYSON AM07 FAN - NO POWER FAULT - Can I FIX it?
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- Опубліковано 29 лис 2022
- Here we have a broken Dyson AM07 Air Multiplier Bladeless Tower Fan purchased from eBay. These are current models sold in high street shops for £350. This one from eBay has no power at all. Can it be fixed? Let's find out.
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Remember that this is just for entertainment, and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince. - Навчання та стиль
Very fun to watch along and see it try to work. Love your videos Vince, thank you so much for them!
Cool fan, Vince:)
That big hole on the bottom is to access the 2 screws. You don't need to undo the clip securing the plastic piece on the oscillation motor axle.
I was thinking the same (although I don't own one). That circlip would be impossible to put back otherwise.
Been a while, a good Can Vince Fix It video! I really enjoyed the fault finding!
Thank you Devtty 👍👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince hey mate, would you ever do a educational video on how to use a multimeter etc
No more big bangs. My heart can’t take another surprise like that last one ❤
My heart was in my mouth when he was shorting the pins on that IC. I was half expecting another "Jesus Christ" moment.
😂
Yes just what i need an hour of my vince ❤️❤️❤️
Really enjoyed the effort to try to fixit.
You have to love the way Dyson have "invented" everything someone else has already invented, We had a fan less blower for air drying paint in the bodyshop that worked the same way 20yrs ago we just ran it through a three phase compressor to supply the air and not the fan blades hidden in the base of your heater, Then 30yrs ago I looked at workshop next to a woodworking shop that had a sort of cyclone dust disposal system on the roof a great big funnel/fan that looks just like the funnel fan set up in a Dyson hoover (yes I used those 2 words together LOL). Mind you my mate's brother was a crash test dummy for Dyson (Im not kidding he was given products to test and brake) and my wife has destroyed that many Dyson hoovers that I refuse to even look up the replacement part numbers let alone pay for it, thats her job and when the cellartape gives up around the handle of this one its her problem I will just paint the skirting board again. Great Video as always x
love these vids vince mate keep em coming :)
It was a good attempt. Enjoyed the troubleshooting on this device.
Thanks Shawn, it would be nice to be able to bypass the chip and just have it working as a fan with maybe a separate speed controller. I'm hoping the comments section might have some ideas 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince they generally do. It's a good community here.
Great Effort Vince!
Unfortunately it's a similar situation to the hot and cold fan I looked at, and even if you bought a new MCU you need the software to program into it. I would be VERY careful connecting things to live mains such as your bench power supply.
The ground on the fan may have been at quite a higher voltage than the ground on your bench supply and could have possibly blown it up. The number of wires going to the fan motor is due to it being a BLDC motor, and it has 3 coils + Common which run at around 300v DC, then there are 5 wires (GND, +5V, and 3 x hall effect signals for the motor position). Great video as always, and thanks again for the mention!
There is also a transistor H bridge drive on the board for the BLDC motor and those three 8 pin ic's on the other side of the board are the gate drivers.
It's not uncommon for such devices to have just a capacitive dropper instead of a fully switched supply. And why not, all HMI elements are fully isolated, and for the few mA the MCU consumes, it wouldn't matter in regards to efficiency.
And even with its own little power supply, it is tied to the MOSFETs one way or another, so not that safe regarding isolation anyway.
Supply voltage to the MCU could literally be 295V for GND and 300V for VCC. The MCU sees 5V, but your body sees 300V.
@@graealex If the unit had its own switch mode power supply which powered the MCU, the MCU would actually be isolated from the mains side, because the unit would drive the transistors on the mains side through opto-isolators.
@@tyronenelson9124 Not necessarily. SMPS don't necessarily reference any particular voltage. You can easily bind GND to any arbitrary voltage in your circuit. Assuming optocouplers exist is very dangerous.
@@graealex I don't think you fully understand, you cant always bind the HV DC GND side to the LV DC GND side in a SMPSU especially if the system is earthed that would be lethal.
Have loved your videos for years keep it up
You can test the remote by looking at it through a cell phone camera while you push the buttons, you should be able to see the ir led flashing.
Very interesting video again Vince. I thought I saw a capacitor between two legs of the transistor. That could have caused the short.
You used the remote without testing the infrared. You can test it with your phone in the selfie-mode. That’s how I always check ir remotes in the repaircafe.
I was going to say the same about the remote, it’s a trick that can save a headache when remotes don’t seem to work
When you supplied DC power via your bench PSU at 4Vdc, you had overriden the supply rail short. That allowed the Dyson PSU to start working which itself brought the supply voltage up to 5Vdc and you saw that back feeding to your bench PSU. When you switched off the Dyson the 5Vdc dropped and you saw 4Vdc on your bench PSU again.
With the uController drawing 400mA+ (confirmed via your Flir) it's knackered.
I don’t think it is knackered.
I don't even know what knackered is but it sounds delicious
Yep !
Really good video vince
Hi Vince! Silent sub here! My first electronic job was at Panasonic service dep't, A cool trick I learned there is that you ccan use an Xacto knife (or a tiny needle) to gently lift the VCC and/or VSS pins of the MCU chip while heating up the pin with the soldering iron. That's how we were unsoldering small SOT23 SMT power transistors. If it turns out that it really is the Renesas MCU, this little guy needs to be programmed and we do not have the Dyson binary file, so if it IS the MCU, I think that
we're dead in the water......... Good Job for all your vids!!! (conformal coating is a real pain, isn't it ?!!!)
Thanks for the info Daniel 👍👍👍 Nice tip on the Xacto knife idea and YES conformal coating is such a pain! 👌
The Alexa part made me laugh so much...
Really cool video!
Hi Vince, here is a tip for you.
To see if an infra red remote is working or at lease sending out signals, point it at the camera, you should see the infra red light flash in the camera or phone view finder.
Most cameras, phones etc, can see infra red light, It's a handy trick to check if remotes are at least putting out some sort of signal. You are Welcome !
Love the struggle. Makes me miss all those Macbooks battles from the past
I wouldn't think the microcontroller does more than enable/disable certain IO pins. So if it is the issue, you could remove the chip then try directing 5V or 0V to whichever of the IO connections in hopes of finding ones that enable the main fan. If that worked it might be a simple hack to add some small external switches to the chassis (remote would still not work of course).
Search a big fan of your videos keep making your videos keep up with it in love you❤
The packing peanuts strike again! Mwhahaha! :)
I bought an item off of ebay with that dam packing peanuts one of the worst packing materials to use
I knew you would somehow be behind this Kip!!!! Mark my words, REVENGE WILL BE MINE 💀
I hate them Ellis with a passion!!!!
Lol at Costco being a local UK thing
Vince, you need an isolation transformer. to wokr on board that are hot. Isolation trasnformer does not also float the board but also limits the current, so a short wont generate a pop (eventually will burn the isolation transformer if you dont umplug it) of blow the protection fuse if installed.
I like your toy fix videos!!
Don't worry about the views Vince mate the real ones will always be here to support you whether it's a subscribe, like and a view or a donation of some kind or whatever it is we do to help you out.
You can't always win. But I'm looking forward for you fixing it in the future.
"Tom and Jerry Jack in the box never gonna be a success on youtube."
Strange, since that Five-nights-at-freddy's-looking Tom makes hell of a thumbnail. No idea why youtube algorithm didn't recommend it to me.
Usually acetone (pure) or isopropyl alcohol can break down the conformal coating making it easier to test individual components.
I get my stock of pure acetone from poundland.
Great stuff, Vince.
Drives me crazy when I get an amp in with a failed MCU. Practically impossible to get a replacement in today's world. Great video Vince and I hope it lives again one day.
Thanks Todd, luckily, I have been pointed in the right direction of where to buy replacement boards. They are expensive (£67) but I think in this instance it is worth it. Seems such a waste to have something this large NOT working. I know it isn't a true fix but at least the item will be working again. Thanks for watching 👍
@@Mymatevince NOTHINGS IMPOSSIBLE, U NEED THE SOFTWARE AND U CAN BUY ANY MCU,, GET A WORKING MODEL, DUMP THE MCU,, SOFTWARE AND BUY A REPLACEMENT, SIMPLE, IF U WANT TO BUY A DECENT PROGRAMMER, I HAVE ONE
@@leewright6101 And I have to hire some Russian Hackers everytime I try to fix a simple household appliance?😁
@@crazyedo9979 Unless companies and consumers put repairability high on their list , it will only worsen over time. I try to buy stuff that i can hack or repair myself or others already did. Dyson or lookalikes dont get my money.
I got a Dyson fan from Dyson’s official eBay outlet store, saved a fair bit of money and it looked brand new, literally looks like someone unboxed it, didn’t like it and put it back, it has a huge replaceable carbon filter and I can control it with Alexa. Monitors air quality too.
I fixed up a Xiaomi Mi air purifier 3H recently. It has a delicated power board and logic board. The power board is blown and I just power it up externally with a power brick running 19volts DC into it. Works fine after. I would say if you really want to use the Dyson fan, feed power directly to the motors and skip the PCB altogther. Then put a toggle switch for the oscillator motor and a voltage regulator for the fan motor.
Just a small bit of info about that spinning motor, if you stop and start them they reverse direction so that is what was happening there at the end.
It seems that to find the information on that fan you would first, had to read the information from a working chip, copy it, then download it to the chip that you are now working on, which means that only Dyson would have that information, but they don't like to give that information to anyone.
I've got this exact fan and it does the oscillating thing when plugged in. When switched on with the remote it works fine and blows but as soon as you press the power it just oscillates. After some research it seems that this is caused by overheating the chip so it becomes damaged. I still use the fan to blow air and direct the blade where I want by hand, I took it apart and left the oscillation motor unplugged to stop it constantly oscillating.
There are several circuits hanging on the VDD line in the chip; ESD, over voltage protection to name a few. When you induced the voltage on the vdd pin, you removed the short by burning an open a component in a circuit attached to the VDD pin. The initial damage also caused damage to that vdd rail inside the chip. This accounts for the odd behavior of the motor because the control chip is partially bad and its able to power up a bit. I'm guessing there was an event that caused the ESD cell on that pin to latch and that caused the short but it also damaged something else. You can look at the spec and it will have the ESD rating. It should be 2K volts human body and 200 volts for machine model tests. Nice video......
Excellent video Vince shame it didn’t turn out for the best, but we all learn something new every day
You should of tested all the Mosfets in the middle just saying 🤭
I was closing my eyes on this one , This pcb is called "live chassis" is because they do not have an isolated power supply everything is referenced to live 🙈, You are lucky that you did not blow up you're bench power supply, The reason why the short is gone is that you blew it open, The power supply for the chip is limited in how much current it can supply, The chip is pulling the power rail down by injecting you're power supply , You supplied the extra current to blow the internal chip short, It's a shame that even a fan needs an MCU these days , Still a great video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Anonymous, shows how little I still know!!!! I need to Google 'live chassis'. I think I vaguely know what it means but hopefully it will become clearer. I will re read this again later and hopefully I will understand it more 👍👍👍 As always, thanks AR...Just to let you know I'm missing your videos😓.
Vince, Always check to see if there is a clock pulse on any micro controller device. If there is no clock pulse the microcontroller will not run and it is a common failure point.
With newer devices Dyson have been doing some pretty lousy things, like on their cordless vacuum cleaners they've been smothering the PCB where the on/off switch is with glue. Making them more difficult to repair.
Which ones do they do that with? The new ones with the laser on the front? I was thinking of getting the bigger handheld ones at some point, have a V6 Animal at present.
Dyson hates 'right to repair'. His business model sucks.
I had the same problem with Dyson vacuum, so I put arduino instead that mcu and programmed it similar to vacuum functions.
Such a shame Vince. I do hope someone will give you some kind of workaround. It's a fan! And it's oscillates already. Should be doable. Excellent video as always
Thanks Arreglando 👌👍👍👍
It is funny you spoke about the Tom and Jerry JackInTheBox as being a flop. I really enjoyed it for being different than all the other repairs you see all the time on yt. 😅
Thanks Sait, I agree, the rubber band on the inside was a real surprise for me. I just wasn't expecting that at all 👌👍
Hi Vince, you really should buy a dedicated isolation transformer for the device under test (DUT). Using your bench supply and mains to the DUT could cause major issues if they are at different potentials. Better to use batteries for voltage injection if you need to plug the DUT into the mains too.
Another trick is if you have one of those 240V inverters for use in the car, connect it to the bench PSU and power it with 12V. I've found it works great as an isolator for low power devices.
@@Drew-Dastardly No good for sensitive electronics as most inverters are not pure sine wave. The ‘modified’ sine wave are just as bad. And pure sine wave inverters cost ££.
@@martinfairweather700 You get pure sine wave inverters for use in cars also
@@TwoGunz2008 yes of course. But most are cheap Chinese modified sine wave.
If you just want the fan to come on you can just link the power direct to motor just find where on the board the motor voltage comes from and link it out giving you full speed. I do it when speed controllers fail just supply the voltage needed and it will run, or buy a motor speed controller and set that to control speed.
Hi Vince, I believe the Dyson AM06, AM07 and AM08 all use the same chip on each SKU. I am sure you will revisit after finding a donor board.
Gaaahhhhh! Packing boogers...
Meanwhile the Patton floor fan we found 'released in the wild' sometime around the turn of the century only needed the speed switch replaced. Been running ever since...
Wonder if the controller has a rest pin, might be worth giving it a toggle. Great video thanks.
Watching this sat in total darkness other than laptop screen, I love watching these vids. I'm sat in darkness because EON offered an incentive of £100 to reduce from 0.22kwh per hour to 0.09wh. I have an Ups system, a very expensive one, the battery in my laptop is half dead so I'd get 30-40 mins. Turned the fuse box off so consumption of gas/electric is zero, combi boilers require electric to work. An impressive backup supply 3 hours plus.
I think it's a great idea to have a backup power system. I've recently installed a solar system, and just got 18kw of batteries for storage. Also have 2x 6kw diesel generators, as we live quite remote, and when we had that storm Arwen last year most of the area had no power for around a week. We were ok tho :)
@@BuyitFixit I agree, my issue, ground floor flat. Seldom called on but it's there, doubt I could afford replacing the battery though, unit was almost £300. Done me well so far.
Maybe a show n tell, I don't use much electricity but what I do use is smarting a lot, shhesh 0.22kw per hour. Bought a solar flood light to illuminate interior lasted 3 months of summer, battery dead, very little usage so no overcharge protection, checked solar panel on sunny day 6.4v to a 3.7 18650 singular, poor little mite got cooked, maybe 2 18650 with limited output could cope, would aldo need overcharge protection hmm south facing wall.
Good attempt Vince, but sometimes this modern stuff is just not economically repairable due to either non-availability of spares and/or overcomplicated design. Frankly there is no need at all for a fan like this to use a precision BLDC motor and its associated driver circuitry - it might be worth trying to take that out and retrofit the thing with a 12 or 24V DC motor, possibly salvaged from a scrap printer or something - all it has to do is run a fan, and a cheap wall-wart type power supply would likely be fine to power it (if you use a 24VDC motor, you can use a cheap after-market 19V laptop charger as a power supply. Likewise, 12V power adapters are cheap and easy to get hold of)
Even when something is not worth repairing, it may still be worth repairing by alternative methods :)
I wish you had done this video a couple years ago :D I had got the same fan broken, i think the same way, ~ 2 years ago, and tried to fix, but didnt have the guts to test with live voltage so just passed it on.. I usually check to see if there are other videos of people fixing this one.. but there was suprisingly few videos about it, most about cleaning dust..
Thanks Karthik, yes very few videos on it. Buy It Fix It video was very helpful though, things made more sense after watching that 👌👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince Thanks Vince!
Did you put fresh batteries in the remote? Thanks for the Vids!
So it looks like you have 6 mosfets across the 330v rail as 3 half-bridge feeds to drive a BLDC fan in the base. Should be possible to fudge some form of replacement ESC to provide drive signals to the mosfets at variable speed to replace the more complex Dyson drive arrangements.
It's a synchronous motor for the oscillation. It doesn't actually have a forward or backward, it just takes off in a random direction every time it's powered up. Like the spinning platter in a microwave.
Thank you Lee 👍👍
I’m wondering for fun can you take the fan and remove the chip and add wires to bypass the chip without it and run the fan using some kind of speed controller with a rotary switch added. This way you can manually adjust the speed of the fan where the chip was using a rotary switch.
The power supply display was reading the voltage coming from the board while the fan was plugged in.
So although you had set the power supply to 4Volts, coming from the board was 5Volts on that chip.
Basically you had the two devices supplying voltage at the same time but the chips supply voltage was greater than your power supply voltage,
and the greater of the two is what was displayed on the power supply. You were back feeding your power supply.
I hate foam based packing - they really need to ban it.
I'm your #1 fan Vince! Swap the 13A fuse for a 3 or 5A one, no way that needs a 13A fuse. Edit: I just browsed through the comments, there is probably no point in swapping the fuse if its no fixed. :-)
We have Costco in the US. They call them Warehouse Stores. Other similar stores are Sams Club (Owned by Walmart) and BJ's Wholesale. Other defunct warehouse stores are Fedco and Price Club. They require a yearly membership to shop there for most items.
don't they have that everywhere? I am from Brazil
@@hmello3250 Vince said he wasn't sure if it was just a UK store or not. Not sure about where else they might have them, though.
The big blue capacitor called Rifa is for interference suppression. Together with the resistor you noticed. Both sit across line in and zero. Sometimes these Rifas blow up, and that can cause strange phenomena all around the board. You can remove the Rifa and see if that makes any difference.
But definitely, you should be able to make bypass the controller and have the fan be on constantly. Now if it is pulse width modulated then you have a bit of programming to do. Still... interesting. Live and learn.
Unfortunately it is not as simple as pwm.
This motor has hall effect sensors that monitor in what position the rotor is and the micro controller decides when each coil and with what polarity should be fired,
You see the 6 smd mosfets on the pcb, Well they are connected to the 3 coils inside the motor and with 6 mosfets the micro controller can turn on any of the 3 coils in either polarity.
Technically you could make a motor controller but it would have to work on rectified mains (330v dc) and would require some engineering.
If you are interested i would recommend that you read up on bldc motors and bldc controllers since I probably didn't do a good job of explaining it.
@@diymaster1121 what do they even need such precision for a fan? I understand hall sensors on scooters and ebikes, but fans? Surely the controller can make do with back EMF sensoring like they do on RC motors, or even just use any normal motor instead of a BLDC and be done with it. Edit: hey, I'm thinking a drone ESC and a PWM signal generator might be enough to get that motor to spin.
Rifas tend to blow up in BBC micros and Macintoshes.. The newer ones don't really become smoke machines
Just a thought. I’ve fiddled with lots of devices where even with a 2 wire hot and ground. The motors still talk back to the motherboard, and if one isn’t plugged in while diagnosing it’ll throw a bunch of errors or it just won’t function at all; but when the fans and motors are all plugged in it will work. Maybe if you had it plugged in from the beginning it would’ve been a little different?
Just brought a AM09 Hot Plus cool for very cheap after watching this
The blue mat :)
The MCU is what interprets the remote control signals and drives the motors. While you probably won't get the firmware image from Dyson to flash into a replacement MCU (probably obtainable via Mouser/Digikey/etc.), with some reverse-engineering it should be possible to figure out which of the GPIO pins on the MCU controls which part of the fan (oscillation, fan speed, etc.). Interpreting the remote control signals may take some reverse engineering too, depending on how complicated Dyson made the encoding.
Basically it'd be a pretty nice project to hack on, and it seems this fan can definitely be made to work again :)
The six large transistor packages sure look like three half-bridges for a three-phase BLDC style motor. Wouldn't be too huge of a project to drive it, for someone familiar with embedded development. A bit of a different type of project though. Reminds me of the kind of thing Ben Heck does these days.
@@jessicav2031 Indeed, there are probably direct links with the MCU's pins that could be hijacked with minimal PCB surgery.
May also just desolder the MCU and use its pads, I guess, since it's currently shorting the heck out of the board :)
It is probably a brushless motor and this RL78 varian probably fited with specific peripehrals to control. Probably a bit more complicated that on/off logic. Still doable, but just getting into RL78 is not easy. They are not friendly at all. Renesas is targeted to industry in big volumes, not hobbist. But you can fit and Arduino there and forget about the RL78. Antoher down side, look like power electronics, making even more complicated to debug in real life
@@38911bytefree In other words, more fun! I was thinking something like another MCU on a daughterboard that either soldered into the slot for the existing one, or sat to the side with jumpers going to the pads. It would be an epic puzzle to solve.
We definitely have lots of Costcos in the US, half of the food and bulk spices in my house say Kirkland on them.
My guess is the main ic was shorted internally and when you injected voltage into it you probably burned out the short even more.
A long time ago you had a microcontroller that was behaving weird, that one only needed a reset (in this case pin 2) and came alive. Is the signal on the reset pin stable? How is the clock signal on pin 4 (if it uses a external clock signal)?
Check the IR receiver circuit
Costco is a world wide chain store we have them in Australia as well
pro tip: normal fans come with two speed settings: too fast and way too fast .. I used to use them with a dimmer - which is a totally wrong thing to do b/c the fan motor is an inductive load and on top of it they have syncronous motors which are locket to the mains frequency - but a 500w dimmer can take the abuse of a 20w fan. It gives me a way to slow down the fan by "starving it". and it runs somewhat more silent.. also bigger fans usually run a bit quieter
I picked up one of those fans from a resale shop for $14 two years ago. The remote was missing and the fan will not rotate unless you have the remote. The silly remote cost me as much as the whole thing( $14). It's not even that great in my book. Better than paying the $400 plus it went for new. I hate giving up on a project like that but I know my limits. Messing with mains is not my idea of a fun day.
Costco is not just a UK thing. Have plenty here in the USA
Costco is an American multinational that's since 1983 (Seattle, Washington) but came to the UK in 1993 (Thurrock, Essex).
did u test the remote, being infrared u should see a light when viewed with your camera?
This would be a great project for an arduino programmer - an arduino based control board.
Where you've injected power? If you put it on the base of the transistor, that may be comming from the output pin of the MCU, so by doing that you may short the output and even worse, that is why the MCU getting hot, you should FIRST find a datasheet of the components you've plan to test and understand where their power rails are and then put power there to check shortened devices, not just anywhere ... unless ofcourse you are just bored and need some Christmas fireworks :D Then bravely may put 240 anywhere on the board for maximum effect :D Voltage comes from SMPS and on the second (cold) side after a schottky diode and filter capacitor, first always check for StandBy supply (+5V always on for MCU to be able to turn it on) then secondary voltages if any, if powered on. When testing complicated boards make sure you connect every vital part for proper operation, such as sensors, switches ETC. To me it looks like a crystal resonator is faulty, or internal oscillator failed. If you want to bypass the MCU, remove it and find out which pins of it controll fan and put 5V on them, The MCU just do that here, when needed, but you'll do that when you need ;) The fan is represented (probably is) as 5 wire, 4 coils, one is common and others are 1,2,3,4 speed, depending on which one is connected (i doubt it is a stepper motor) so by connecting one of other wires you controll the speed. The fan may also be an AC motor and will be switched by Simistors the same way.
Hi Vince, you are right, when you put enough current into the chip you broke the short circuit. you can imagine it as if you blew a fuse. The motor for rotating the fan is a DC motor I assume. All you had to do was apply voltage to it and it started spinning, but the motor for the fan itself is brushless. It needs three phases to work, which mediate the six mosfet soldered to the pcb. Those mosfets are controlled by the damaged MCU, that's why your fan didn't turn on.
Thanks for the detailed explanation Servis 👌👍👍👍
I'd have been tempted to replace the chip just to see if you got any kind of basic operation from the fan motor at all......looking forward to a revisit👍
The chip needs programming. It will do nowt without software installed.
@@wthornton7346 Yep ! so pointless.
you could make paper mashy with all those cardbords
hopefully the revisit is soon. Wonder if there is another model of fan that you could swipe the board or control chip from?
Hopefully Emma, I have bought another fan from eBay which tripped the fuseboard when plugged in and ALSO I have been given a link to buy a replacement board. It was £67 in total but I think worth it to get it running again. Just need to wait 2 to 3 weeks before it arrives. Maybe with the knowledge gained in this video I can get the 2nd eBay one fixed or see if the same chip has failed again 👌👍
Another example of over complicating something so simple. A fan doesn't need a microcomputer and so much ancillary circuitry just to turn on fan motor - even multiple speeds. As mentioned above though the motors are unique so it's not just a case of bypassing the electronics. Fingers crossed you come across another controller board in the future!
Thanks midinotes 👌👍👍👍
I would personally not do that voltage injection anywhere other than the input.
By injecting the voltage somwhere random in the circuit you can seriously mess stuff up.
Those 6 big mosfets in the middle of the board look like a 3 phase motor controller for the fan, which is typical for Dyson. You could maybe use some hobbyist 3 phase brushless motor controller off eBay to get it to run.
Awesome
It's an ac Syncro motor, it can start in either direction as do microwave plate motors, it's just a fluke that it went the other direction.
Use some gold plated multimeter probes, the fine tip ones are only like $3 on aliexpress and i got much better results that way
I have a few things that are broken that Ive been waiting for the spare parts i need to pop up on ebay for like 2 years lol
Modern electronic control circuits a nightmare on small appliances and will go wrong
someties them packaging peanuts can be sold to fisherman, the carp fisherman use the ones that dissolve in water
not sure, but looks like dry joint on centre leg of transistor you removed (looks well dodgy before you removed it) though MCU may have been already damaged too?
My dyson fan needs the base on and to be upright to work, protection if it falls over.tho mine goes hot 2, so maybe different
If you had a working one, you could probably dump the flash memory off the the chip, and just program a new one if you’ve got the right programmer, A lot of Pc bios motherboard chips get corrupted and you have to flash the firmware back on
Shame we'll tried vince 👍👍👍👍👍
Mr Dyson lives just up the road from me. I’ve seen him arriving and departing in his helicopter flying over my house.
Bladeless?
The blue X cap has a burn mark in it signaling a surge destroyed it.
Well spotted, I didn't notice that at the time 👌👍👍👍👍
i got one of these fans hoping they'd be quiet. they are NOT quiet. thankfully the white noise is good for sleeping
What is the voltage on the fan and osilater motor?
Do you have a six pin chip on that board that has pin 5+ and pin 1- ?
If so replace it as it controls the PWM for the power supply to that hot chip.
I suggest that you get a infer red heat camera.
The "COOL" on the feet isn't meant to state it works as an airco. Dyson also has a line "HOT + COOL" which are able to work as a heater or as a regular fan. They look the same as the series which just are a fan. So Dyson named the heaters as "Hot&Cool" and the machines with only a fan "Cool" - so it is be recognised without having to check the serial number.