Simple fix for the Moritz trailer doors opening when not wanted. Drill a hole in the bottom of the pin and put a locking pin through it to prevent it from popping up.
You missed the MOST important feature. How high does it dump. Some dump at 45 degree. Others 55 degrees. H&H and Hull dump at least 55d maybe more. If you don't want to shovel wet dirt or mud while a line of haulers are questioning you family background get the deepest angle. I also bought one that had the axles in the middle wih a long overhang. VERY BAD. Trailer whipped and wouldn't dump well and the frame bent from the tires to the tailgate(company paid to beef up runners). The paint is always a pain, but I lined one of my trailers with 1/2 inch CCA plywood and it still looked good 10 years later when I traded it for a larger trailer with thicker steel body. Thanks for your video. Dump trailers are wonderful. I've owned several but I think they are definitely improved thru the years. I had a remote control that was wonderful and safer around electric wires.
A couple of things to be aware of if you're looking at a trailer with gravity down. 1. Saves you battery which is good. 2. You can't control the speed it goes down. When empty it goes down faster than a power down trailer...This is a good things. If you need to lower it with a load still in the trailer then watch out because it comes down FAST! This is bad. The paint/powder coat sucks on all of them (all trailer really) if you live in a climate that puts salt on the road in the winter. The only way to go to prevent that is galvanized. Dave (in salty Ontario, Canada)
I have a midsota trailer and they prime before they paint and use better paint 3 winters and my trailer still looks good. Lot of powder coating the steel is not primed. Mine is also gravity down and I’ve never had it not come done down to -15. Midsota has a one piece 7 gauge floor plus a scissors lift and mine has the hydraulic jack. The moritz jack still isn’t great.
Another important item is dump angle. Firewood and crushed stone will come out easy but if you are dumping loam, or mulch you will want a dump trailer with a steep angle.
Maybe add a safety latch to the top of gate somewhere in case the stock one pops open. I’d probably drill and bolt it on so it lasts longer than self tapping screws. Dab your bolts and drill holes with rust oleum so it doesn’t rust after installation
@@ohiowoodburner You should be able to order one raw or partially assembled if you find a good deal on hot dip galvanizing. The guys who just do galvanize can lay it on thick if you prefer, and they can tell you if any cavities would benefit from better liquid zinc access.
Thanks, Joe! I have no need for a trailer nor use for a trailer, but I love the comparative study of experience with both. There is no substitute, and i think everybody appreciates that. It s something that you absolutely can not get from a sales brochure, you can only get it from a person. And that [non-sales] person has to be willing and able to take the time to explain it, as You have done here, superbly and succinctly. Love it!
Thanks for this comparison video. I hope to purchase one of these some day. I would recommend that if someone buys one new that they look into taking it to someone who can do some sort of preventive rust proofing. It’s amazing how fast trucks and trailers seem to rust out in the Midwest.
I would weld a latch at the top of the doors on the new trailer. After driving roll off trucks for 20 years I learned to never trust a single pin and if the lock has a spring then get rid of it ASAP. Locks at top and bottom or no haul, no exceptions.
simple fix for your trailer doors is to drill a hole in that spring loaded pin and install a lock pin or cotter pin while its locked in the down position would be easy to do and give you peace of mind
Good review and pinpoint. Your Griffin trailer is still in a condition to save it; sandblast, a heavy primer, good paint, brake/suspension job, grommets everywhere than spraying with antirust, then it will last you for years. It still worth it. 👍👍👍
100% on the tarp. Don't even talk yourself into just getting one later. Just get it right away. 2 rams definitely better if you ever haul uneven loads. It prevents twisting. Lastly, you are 100% spot on when it comes to the door locks.
Hi Joe - it's Big Rodders in Ireland. Trailers of that nature over here are invariably galvanised. The larger tractor drawn models are powder coated. We have a lot of salt on the roads during winter time.
The pin lock gate works great.... in the sales lot. Under load, the trailer will flex like a wet noodle. The pin will come free of the receiver hole. The cam lock is a much better way to close a gate when hauling these heavier loads. MTP, take it for what it’s worth. Good video! Thank you...
@@ohiowoodburner hi that trailer still has alot life in it , it wont get rid of the rust but it will stop further rusting , or a diesel oil mix , i use a 50/50 mix on anything i think may rust , i have it in a old spray bottle , ever look at the residue around a diesel pump when your filling up with gas , . old waist oil and a roller does wonders also , your old and a bit rusty and we are not giving up on you , lol john
The last trailer I purchased was from a general contractor. It was rusted because contractors use them for dumpsters and leave them uncovered, The rain soaks the drywall and construction dirt and it just rots away. We have a full fab shop so I picked it up cheap, yanked the bed and welded in new steel and used POR on the entire thing. I would say I put 2k into it. The nice part with a trailer is in PA they are only 40 bucks a year registration for a 10000 GVW. The next trailer we purchase is going to be a hot dipped galvanized trailer with a grapple from Metavic. Loading the mini ex into the back and unloading it to load wood is a pita not to mention having to go back after dumping the wood to get the machine.
A neglected maintenance effort is to sprat paint any scratches and dings - weekly! Plus power wash at least weekly. In Texas a new trailer can be registered at a reduced GVRW but only when titled new. This is good when you need volume more than weight.
The Griffin has the better frame design... tube blows i-beam out of the water on flex and weight. All the guys that say "but my I-beam will last forever", Yeah it will.. after the rest of your trailer rusted out so what's the point? Also like the dual pistons on the Griffin.. smart. No wracking if the load shifts while up. Its too bad they had such a problem with rust. I am sure by now they have fully addressed it (if they're still in business). The Moritz Does have the better floor.. You're right that bent up sides are stronger, BUT Moritz uses all 7ga floors on their trailers. They had to weld on lighter sides for weight savings since they used heavy i-beam. The Griffin is simply the more serviceable trailer afaic. If you used a "rust converter" on the whole thing, then lightly painted with a black or grey primer, then hit the underside with Fluid Film and you'd be all set. That, and add a proper heavy trailer jack and maybe a 'wet-bolt' kit for the shackle to grease it. As far as "gravity down"... that is the preferred system as it uses half the power from the battery. But most guys who live up north don't use their dump trailers in the salty cold. For you it seems like an okay fit. Dirt work would rather make more dump cycles in a day. Thanks for the video! If you step in and stop that rust while it's still just on the surface, you'll save that Griffin for years of solid life 👍~
Great review on your dump 💩 trailers...The main reason I found out why most trailer manufacturers do 9990# instead of 10k is for liability insurance. Most people don't know and neither did I. But surely found out after being summons for a Dot. audit. All trailers 10,000# and over have to have liability insurance on them. If a trailer because detached from the towing vehicle, general liability won't cover damages to someone elses property 🤯
Great review. I just bought a 16 foot dump trailer. Even though it was only 2 years old, it was already beginning to rust. I bought some Eastwood encapsulating paint. It is $200 a gallon, but it is amazing. That with a topcoat and then spraying everything with one of my favorite things-Fluid Film. Fluid Film is wool wax and will make everything last 2 to 3 times as long. I would agree that dump trailers are amazing and versatile. They are difficult to live without. It is hard to believe that your Moritz has just a single spring loaded pin holding the tail closed. I would install a pin in the bottom of that pin, to insure it doesn't open. Otherwise, weld a latch on the doors, so that you can put a pin through the latch to secure the doors. No matter what, having the doors only secured on the bottom puts alot of pressure on the upper portions of the doors. Bad design.
The trailer twists a little going down the road. As it twists, the pin drags on the side of the hole and slides up a little. It is, at that point, against the side of the hole still, in a bind too tight for the spring to push it down. Then, the trailer twists again, pushing the pin up a little more. Eventually, the tapered part gets to the hole and it slides all the way up. Put a pin in the pin under the hole or in the door above the pin. Good review.
Nice look at a few different trailers. I was told that in PA, you only need a CDL if the Combined Gross Weight of the truck and trailer exceeded 28,000 lbs you would need a class A CDL, that would mean that if your trailer was 10,000 lb GVW, it only applies if your truck is rated at 18,000lb GVW. I don't think any truck in the one ton class hits that mark. But the issue come in if they rated the GVWR at over 28k, then if your trailer is over 10k you need the CDL. My dump trailer is rated at 14,000 lbs, my truck is rated at 8800 GVW with a GVWR (with trailer, of 22,000. So my rig doesn't hit the mark where I'd need a CDL. The PA DMV website breaks it down a bit better. I no longer live in PA, but travel there regularly so I keep up on what goes on there. If I'm going that far with a loaded trailer, and will be weighing in at my max, I'd have to seriously consider not doing it in a pickup truck. It might do the job but I'd rather not put that kind of wear and tear on my own truck. When it comes to dual rams, the big issue is if one ram fails under load. it almost always bends the crap out of the frame and/or box. With one big ram, if it fails, it just goes down. A buddy was cleaning up from a flood a few years ago with his dual ram trailer, he loaded it to the max with mud and debris from where his creek overflowed and the right ram dropped suddenly when he was dumping the load. it was on a slight incline to one side and when the ram dropped, the trailer twisted dropping the box on top of the tires on one side. he did what he could to get it back in place but it was bent. Worse yet he failed to notice that even after getting the box empty and pushed sort of back in place, the one tire was rubbing the fender and that blew out on the way home too. That was a tube frame and box but the tubing was pretty thin compared to mine. My trailer has a C channel frame with 8 inch sides and 6" cross members on 12" centers with the box having 3/16" wall 2x3 framing under the two piece floor. The front wall is bolted in. I bought that trailer new in 1999 and will probably have it forever. When I ordered it I specified exactly what I wanted and how it was to be built. I had been using an older, late 80's model and knew what worked for me and what were the weak points of the old trailer. Another buddy has one with torsion suspension but after 5 years there's not much suspension left. The rebound element in those axles is rubber, and rubber rots and gets hard, or takes a set and leave the trailer sitting lower than it should. With springs, the worst thing I'll ever have to deal with is having to swap out the springs but after 24 years mine still look great. The paint on mine was terrible, it had rust at all the seams after about three years. 6 years into owning it i sanded the bad spots and brush painted it with a Rustolastic from MAB. It lasted another 8 years or so, two years ago I got tired of looking at rust so i sand blasted the whole trailer, top bottom and all sides, inside and out. I pulled the axles, set it on a set of stands i made and sprayed the whole trailer with black epoxy bed liner that i had bought at auction. I put it on thick. I then serviced the wheel bearings and springs, I replaced the wheel bearings, grease, and put in some new spring bushings and it should be good for another 24 years. The tires are 10 ply LT tires, the original ST tires dry rotted away in three years. Its on its third set of tires which were new last summer.
A dual ram dump trailer had its lock pin fail & came out. We could not find it. The one working ram raised the load easy! Because the pivot is wide and don't Jam, it works I seen this myself.
Difference between torsion and springs. Spring axles will generally always have all 4 wheels on contact on uneven surfaces. Torsion axles are independent. Going over a deep rut or pot hole will allow a wheel (or two) to temporarily leave contact with the ground putting the extra weight on the other tire/axle. I've arm a heavily loaded torsion axle trailer break an axle under this condition.
If the side of the trailer flexes or leans that will also raise the door up on the end where the pin is. I am looking at it from a physics perspective and not from experience. To test the stability of the sidewall you could have the doors sticking out away from the trailer and pull down on it If the door is not stabilized you could fasten it down some way. A different way would be to have a backup fastener such as a chain going across that would hold if the pin came out. Good job with the instructional video.
I had thought of that to where the pin sorta walks it way up until the tapered end of the pin works it way out. I need to drill it for a cotter pin etc.
@@ohiowoodburner I don't know how it happened but a retaining pin would be a good remedy. Don't use a cotter pin. There are other pins that you have probably seen with the big circle that snaps open-and-shut. I expect the manufacturer would be interested in this problem they created. Wouldn't they be liable? Shouldn't they start building better trailers? I expect it would be a very small cost for them to do better. Tell them you are on UA-cam.
I was told by a dealer for trailers that torsion is only good for on road use, and last about 20 years. If you were taking a trailer across a field to gather wood, springs are much better. Spring suspension is supposed cheaper to replace.
If you look up how torsion axles spring, you’ll see that this is true. The “spring” is four blocks of rubber that a square inner axle shaft twists inside of. Rubber dries out, cracks, fails.
Joe, I just want to correct one thing. In Pennsylvania you only need a CDL if you are over 26000 pounds in combination. I have 14k pound trailer and registered as a class 8 and I come in below a class A CDL.
I had a Big Tex 7x14 14k dump trailer. The quality was closer to your cheaper trailer. I sold it a few years ago, and I really miss having it. I intended to make money with it and never really did, but it was quite handy just having it around. I would love to have some aluminum ramps on my car hauler.
Had a load trail gooseneck bought it for haul off after Rita & Catrina worked around Cameron la. I built up the sides to take more volume had a96f250 with 7.3 manual 5sp 4x4 with 33s had no complaints other than it rode like a buck board ! For lifting super heavy stuff before loading I would put a couple of 4x4s 1 on either side between where the front of the bed rested and the frame ! Also you have to stay on top greasing all points !!!
Very well put! Great information when looking to buy a tipping trailer. The one other thing I would consider when living in a winter season climate is having a telescopic lift for the trailer rather than an under body lift, which is subject to all the road salt and slush in the winter season.. Again a very helpful video. Thank you.!👍
4 piece constriction usually has a heavier gauge floor and sides are lighter gauge. As far as your pin on the tailgate, of there's room, drill a ¼" hole below the plate and use a hitch pin to keep it from popping out.
Great video Joe: After having a dump trailer in a winter environment- I would only buy a hot dipped galvanized dump trailer. I bought a Diamond C trailer which has really good paint. After a year it was rusting. I switched to dump trucks now, but I will be buying a N&N galvanized dump trailer. N&N make lightweight and heavy weight dump trailers. Any new trailers I buy will be galvanized. Personally, I would try to salvage your older trailer by sand blasting, priming, and painting.
The thind we all learned in days gone by. Great comparison. Loosing any load with company logo, is completely unacceptable. Today's day and time , we need to look at and determine if this product is 75 % worth it . Joe you have came a long way removing you position in a corporate field. To wood sales, and this you tube thing, I only wish I had your " JUST DO THE THANG ". EXCELLENT VIDEO , keep all of us in you tube up to par..
the dual ram is important for stability and weight distribution. With your relatively light loads you may not need that but try dumping a load of soil.
On the Moritz tailgates I would get some way to lock that pin down. Drill a hole just above the spring and put a hairpin cotter through it when hauling on the highway, Leave it in the pump box the rest of the time.
Most state's are 26,001 lb before you need a Commercial license, at that weight it would require at least a "Class B" certification. Once you get over 33K and/or have Combination vehicle's (Semi's etc.) you need a "Class A" certification. There's also an "Air-break's" certification if equipped, anything under 10K (9999 lb or less) total doesn't require any certification, just the regular "Class C" license. Didn't know about Pennsylvania having the exception.
I got into a Bwise 15400 last year. The dealer claims that 26,000 combination is the rule in PA. I've also been told 10,000 is the limit. He provided me with a flow chart that the state provided him showing the 26,000 rule. What you need to get to that is a truck that is 10,000 gvw. A 1 ton puts you over the 26k rule. It is a really nice tool in the arsenal.
@@markw2266 That sounds about right compared to NC law, 10K or less in a single vehicle is the normal Class 1-4, Class 5 being up to 26K (but not over). Class 6-8 requiring a Commercial certification on your license. A or B depending on the weight and/or amount of vehicle's and breaks type. Basically it's 16K per axle although some axle's are rated for +26K witch would require a Class "B" certification.
The cam lock is much better! It's always secured.. The one with the pin, you can drill a hole in it & put a flat washer on it & put an R key or clevis pin to make sure it doesn't open.. Also the one with just the pin, if there's weight Against the door, you can't pop the pin, you have to hammer it out! & eventually it will create an egg shape in the hole & if you haul sand or fine material it will leak out! Love your video's! You take your time & speak thoroughly & clearly & explain things where people can understand, & if you don't know, you don't let your pride get in the way of that, you let people know that too! Thank you for sharing your video's! GOD BLESS YOU!! PRAISE THE LORD!! AMEN!! 😘🙏🏻❤️📖🙌🏻🕊
What about installing on the inside back of the Moritz trailer 2 cables, 1 on each side with asome kind of hook to keep the back doors secure when driving?
I would drill a hole on the pin of the grey trailer and put a hitch pin in it this way it can't pop up. It's an extra step opening the doors but it will give you a little piece of mind. Just a thought
Great job showing and telling about them dump trailers. have a good one and thanks again for telling what you know about them dump trailers see ya next time see ya bye.
Not sure if you will see this. Missed it when it came out. I would dtill some holes and insert a hitch pin with haitpin clip to keep closed. Anyway ejoyed the video. Thanks Earl
Good job on this video Joe. I do think having the seam down the middle is more prone to cracking from dumping heavy items in. Having floor welded along the edge allows for a better weld joint and it does not allow big heavy objects to hit the weld joint directly. Stitch welds under the trailer are common for 2 reasons. When you weld, the heated area shrinks causing added stress and major warping on light gauge materials. It also would add a lot of extra labor and production cost in welding those joints solid. Stitch welds can be found on all kinds of things, without compromising structural integrity. It is a good idea to caulk between stitches if corrosion is a concern... Like road salt I agree that the I beam is better for the frame. PJ trailers used to advertise tube frames until they started having problems with cracking. Now they went to beam frames. I believe @Worlds Okayest Farmer did a video on his experience on this too. My next dump trailer will be galvanized with hydraulic jack. Gooseneck most likely due to how much better they tow... that is unless I find a good deal on a f450 4x4 with a 12 ft dump bed first 😊 Take care Joe, hope to see you in Booneville
Excellent post Chris. Thanks for the crash course in metal work!!! I prob won't be in Booneville but def at the PB. I want to talk to you about a spring show at my place next May.
I worked at a company in maintenance. We had hydraulic dock levelers that would freeze up during winter especially if there was a breeze going through making it even colder. We cured our problems by going to Airplane Hydraulic Fluid. Handles extremely cold weather due to planes flying at high altitudes where it is extremely cold.👍🇺🇸
You don’t want full length welds holding the floor on. For multiple reasons. 1) it would take forever to build and you’d warp the crap out of it. 2) steel needs to have some sorta flex. 3) if any moisture does get into the unwelded area it can not escape.
I have a 3500 chevy rack body dump. I attached solid side to the racks. I haven't attached the rear racks because i want to have them hinged so i can swing them opened. The problem i have is finding a way to hold them closed. Finally from your video the light bulb went off. I drove tractor trailers and from your video i will copy the lever closure that all tractor trailers use to keep the back doors safely and securely closed. I was going to use a pin but now i realize that would have been a safety hazzard. Thanks a bunch for your great video.
Very informative video. Next time you’re in the market for a trailer check out N&N trailers. They are made of galvanized material, no paint & hopefully much less corrosion. Probably more expensive but with better quality comes more money. 👍Have a great day.
I didn't agree with you on the smell of oak (love it) until I got a sinus infection. Man that made it smell horrible. Cherry and maple too. But you're pretty spot on with your assessment of the trailers. This was a well thought out and informative review.
@@DaveW74TVN Red oak is red oak here. I'm not sure about elsewhere. But words usually mean something. I'm at a loss how red oak is red oak here, but somewhere else it's red oak actually means piss elm... But ok.
Quick tip: take some silicone caulk (you can get it in a dark color) and caulk those gaps between the underside beams and bottom sheet steel. It'll keep water and road debris from getting between them. Many trailer manufactures do this
Nice video Joe. Elaine from Canada here, my husband asking “ what are you watching?”. I say a dump trailer comparison video. He says, “Whaaat?” Ha ha ha. You explained a lot of good points, what a huge asset to your equipment inventory. Have a great week.
Nice. I would probably caulk those seams underneath with Big Stretch if it were mine. Im sure there is movement but i think it would hold up and things would spray off much cleaner.
The key to longevity with a dump trailer is leave the box about 1/3 of the way when not in use . No water can pool causing major corrosion issues . Good and interesting vid Joe ! Cheers
Hi great video. What size are your trailers? How much will they hold of lose tossed in wood? I’m looking at a 7x12 but thought I may be better with 7x14 what your thoughts?
both are 6x10. I'm not sure what they would hold tossed but neatly stacked they hold exactly 1 cord even with the boards. I considered bigger but decided on smaller for ease on my truck and the fact I prob wouldn't be able to fill a bigger trailer by myself out in the woods as I could a 10 footer
Just ideas. Oil the top of the frames. A little goes along way in preserving steel. The tailgate opening- drill the tip of the pin and where the pin goes below the base-plate add a Clovis pin while transporting. Cheap safety and insurance.
Spray your trailers in and out with fluid film or a mixture of drain oil and Kerosene. Been running trailers daily since 1988. I tried it all. The oil stopped the rust. Not pretty. Not clean. But easy to apply. And it worked. Look into brake maintenance and adjustment. The magnets grind down and need to be replaced.
I am a huge fan of telescopic dump trailers. They go to a much higher angle then yours and dumps stay in a smaller area.👍 We have a local place that specializes in redoing trailers. I see their adds alot. $1600-$2200 for all new lights/wiring harness plus they will sandblast and repaint. Their slogan is Why buy new? We will make yours better then new!
If I can afford it, I would buy more expensive trailer because I like the frame. I also prefer the Leaf spring! Both bounce because they don't have shock absorber to take care of the springs!
Plus a leaf spring puts equal weight on each axle. Yes the torsion ball suspension is much less repairs but they do NOT equalize the load between axles unless the trailer is perfectly level. I have had both and have blown tires cost more than broken springs over the life of the trailer.
lots of trailers just have a sprayed on coat of paint, no primer, no prep. Get a quality trailer, 4 wheel brakes, good hitch yoke, tie downs, ramps, and especially dumping. the good trailer can lift the bed more vertically. The cost difference is worth the difference.
Torsion bars ware a splined rod in the axle tube that goes to the hub on each side the steel bar actually acts as a spring by twisting up and down replaced a bunch on military vehicles over a period of 15 year they are tough as nails. Just a FYI great video appreciate it I'm in the market for one myself. Keep up the good work.
I have a griffin also. I had it sandblasted and repainted about three or 4 years ago and don’t pull it in the winter. Ours are about the same age. I like mine but the powder coat was bad too. I would never buy a powder coat trailer again. I would buy a galvanized
Here is the lift ram ratings. Telescope ram in the front #1. Scissor lift #2 Twin rams under the box #3 Single ram under the box #4. Never heard of a moritz, griffin is sold around here by a guy that sells toppers and utility trailers and yard sheds. No way to repair his line. The canadian galvanized trailer would be my #1 choice if i lived in salt as you do. Down here its diamond c, texas pride, gator made, pj. Etc. thanks for the video.
there is no need to fully weld the bed bracing doesn't add anything other than time to make and warpage. 1 in of weld on mild steel is 70000 psi tear strength. there there to keep the deck sheet from making a whole lot of noise. keeps sheet tight to limit vibration and keep sheet tight.
if it's not galvanized take 50% diesel 50% ATF or used motor oil mix. put in pump sprayer and spray it in the summer and in the fall all underneath and everywhere's.
Same deal here in NC Joe. 10k+ u need a Provisional CDL. But if u have a Farm and run a Farm tag on your Truck you don't have to have a CDL here. There are loopholes so check into it if u can. Firewood may be a Forestry exemption.
Nice video, try to find a heavy duty and long U-Bolt and drill holes on top of each door of the Moritz and all you have to do is drop it on the holes to make sure those doors don't swing open, or make one to go at least 10 inch down and have a strong magnet to hold it so it don't jump off the trailer.
Take that Griffin trailer off the road... take off the wheels and go over it with Rust Converter.. Then give it some actual Paint when done. Then new reflector tape and you will be good to go. These aren't cars w/thin sheet metal.. if you just tend to that rust now, you can bring that trailer up to New and it'll basically stay that way. Be good to yourself... don't let that trailer rust to cr@p just because it had poor powder coating.. protect it and use it with pride 👍
Torsion suspension is a time proven application but it is also the reason your gate opens. Think Torsion? Twisting allows the slave lock to rise above its sleeve. Add cam locks. It's cheap to do and will be your forever answer. Hope that helps.
A solution for your rust problem is relatively easy. Rustoleum sells a RUST CONVERTER in the spray can section, about 6 bucks, you spray it on rust, its flat black, and it converts the rust to iron phosphate and will not rust again. About 6 cans will do the whole trailer and frame- just where its rusty. Then, machinery maintenance painting with a brush. Buy a quart of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Red primer, some painters coveralls and painters gloves, a quart of mineral spirits for thinner and cleaning, wood handle "chip brushes" Home depot calls them; (2 or 3 bucks each, buy 2 or 3 inch size.) A spray can of gray automotive primer, and a quart of Gloss Black Rustoleum. Use a 1 quart paint pot, 1/4 full, 1 tsp thinner, Just slap it on. Make sure its covered good. Sometimes you need to reach back with your brush and smooth out a run or sag. Even if its not great, your trailer won't rust away. Maybe your wife can do it. They know how to use hair spray and fingernail polish. I bet she would do a better job!
Ive had to sand and repaint my 7x14 dump trailer. Used rustoleum oil based black gloss. Gotta keep them greased, well painted and washed to deal with all the salt in winter which is 5-6months long in WI
Had a load in la. mixed with a little of everything after Rita lifted the load some hungup instead of sliding out I use a T handle that’s got a small hook welded on the end to help with emptying the dump . Anyway, this guy next to me is off loading comes over says did you see what come out of your trailer? I said other than trash? He started walking over to where I dumped he has a pole with a hook he peels back apiece of carpet and there’s about a 6’ gater track ho had got into it’s back but it was still very much alive! Be careful when unloading!!
Solar pannels recharging my batteries. Works great. Always charging while they sit. Definately agree box frames rust out first. Thats where the oil spray stops the rust.
Interesting take on economics for 2 earnings households. I would say its more a question of how much reserve income you have vs how many income streams you have. If your household is spending everything it makes or more than it brings in then that's setting up for failure more than diversification on income itself is.
I think its the same in ny i just bought one and the gvwr rating is 9999 they have shipped some to states that dont require a cdl and they are sold wit the axel rating of 14000
I can feel your fear regarding the doors open. When you are buying a device - in first place it should do what it’s meant to do. And a trailer should bring load safely from A to B. Nothing less. And if it doesn’t - because it’s losing the load - it fails in the main purpose. Secondary purpose - like being specially comfortable - is useless if primary purpose is not fulfilled. I think paint is secondary, doors are primary. But changing the doors closing system might be cheaper than derosting and panting.
The tab on the trailer barn door lock is not for holding it closed , it is actully so when you pull handle up and turn it , one of the pins on the locking handle (Pin) sits on top of the tab when you turn the handle in either direction to hold the locking handle pin up , so that when your closing the end gate you don't have to pull up on the pin or slam it closed, I always use the cam type on my trailers , when they are closed they are closed , the other Pin if your trailer flex's which it will depending on the type load you have and of course the road condition, as for the paint issue , paint is paint and salt is not it's friend, If it was mine and I have done it before , Is I have cleaned up and or sand blasted the trailer and frame , and had it covered with either the Hercules bed liner or the Line-X bed liner , those both wear line iron and they don't fade chip or peel ..
You are close on the GVWR and CDL requirements, but not quite right for PA at least. You only need the CDL if your combined GCWR with the trailer and truck is over 26,000lbs. The 10k lb requirement only comes into play if you cross that 26k lb mark. Then its a difference between a class A and B license.
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Simple fix for the Moritz trailer doors opening when not wanted. Drill a hole in the bottom of the pin and put a locking pin through it to prevent it from popping up.
You missed the MOST important feature. How high does it dump. Some dump at 45 degree. Others 55 degrees. H&H and Hull dump at least 55d maybe more. If you don't want to shovel wet dirt or mud while a line of haulers are questioning you family background get the deepest angle. I also bought one that had the axles in the middle wih a long overhang. VERY BAD. Trailer whipped and wouldn't dump well and the frame bent from the tires to the tailgate(company paid to beef up runners). The paint is always a pain, but I lined one of my trailers with 1/2 inch CCA plywood and it still looked good 10 years later when I traded it for a larger trailer with thicker steel body. Thanks for your video. Dump trailers are wonderful. I've owned several but I think they are definitely improved thru the years. I had a remote control that was wonderful and safer around electric wires.
A couple of things to be aware of if you're looking at a trailer with gravity down. 1. Saves you battery which is good. 2. You can't control the speed it goes down. When empty it goes down faster than a power down trailer...This is a good things. If you need to lower it with a load still in the trailer then watch out because it comes down FAST! This is bad. The paint/powder coat sucks on all of them (all trailer really) if you live in a climate that puts salt on the road in the winter. The only way to go to prevent that is galvanized. Dave (in salty Ontario, Canada)
Thanks for adding buddy.
My dump trailer has gravity down, and it came with a valve that you can adjust you can make it come down as slow as you want loaded or empty.
I have a midsota trailer and they prime before they paint and use better paint 3 winters and my trailer still looks good. Lot of powder coating the steel is not primed. Mine is also gravity down and I’ve never had it not come done down to -15. Midsota has a one piece 7 gauge floor plus a scissors lift and mine has the hydraulic jack. The moritz jack still isn’t great.
Another important item is dump angle. Firewood and crushed stone will come out easy but if you are dumping loam, or mulch you will want a dump trailer with a steep angle.
Very true. Prob one of those telescoping ones would be in order.
Maybe add a safety latch to the top of gate somewhere in case the stock one pops open. I’d probably drill and bolt it on so it lasts longer than self tapping screws. Dab your bolts and drill holes with rust oleum so it doesn’t rust after installation
I had considered that. I need to do something to keep me from worrying LOL
Put a small ratchet strap around the doors boss
Drill a hole underneath the latch and put a hitch pin clip so it doesn't pop up.
Galvanized trailers are yet another upgraded option against rust. $$$ everything costs something. 😊
I think that could be the case for my next one Harold!
@@ohiowoodburner You should be able to order one raw or partially assembled if you find a good deal on hot dip galvanizing. The guys who just do galvanize can lay it on thick if you prefer, and they can tell you if any cavities would benefit from better liquid zinc access.
Thanks, Joe! I have no need for a trailer nor use for a trailer, but I love the comparative study of experience with both. There is no substitute, and i think everybody appreciates that. It s something that you absolutely can not get from a sales brochure, you can only get it from a person. And that [non-sales] person has to be willing and able to take the time to explain it, as You have done here, superbly and succinctly. Love it!
Thanks for the very nice post Pneumatic. Most my reviews are from a non expert viewpoint and I think it is a valid one for sure!
Thanks for this comparison video. I hope to purchase one of these some day. I would recommend that if someone buys one new that they look into taking it to someone who can do some sort of preventive rust proofing. It’s amazing how fast trucks and trailers seem to rust out in the Midwest.
very true john!
Get some fluid film and spray it yourself.
@@1768ify thanks. I had not heard of this stuff but I will have to try it out on my truck.
I would weld a latch at the top of the doors on the new trailer. After driving roll off trucks for 20 years I learned to never trust a single pin and if the lock has a spring then get rid of it ASAP. Locks at top and bottom or no haul, no exceptions.
Good idea. Thanks buddy
simple fix for your trailer doors is to drill a hole in that spring loaded pin and install a lock pin or cotter pin while its locked in the down position would be easy to do and give you peace of mind
Mine came with cotter pin locks.
Good review and pinpoint. Your Griffin trailer is still in a condition to save it; sandblast, a heavy primer, good paint, brake/suspension job, grommets everywhere than spraying with antirust, then it will last you for years. It still worth it. 👍👍👍
100% on the tarp. Don't even talk yourself into just getting one later. Just get it right away. 2 rams definitely better if you ever haul uneven loads. It prevents twisting. Lastly, you are 100% spot on when it comes to the door locks.
Hi Joe - it's Big Rodders in Ireland. Trailers of that nature over here are invariably galvanised. The larger tractor drawn models are powder coated. We have a lot of salt on the roads during winter time.
The pin lock gate works great.... in the sales lot. Under load, the trailer will flex like a wet noodle. The pin will come free of the receiver hole. The cam lock is a much better way to close a gate when hauling these heavier loads. MTP, take it for what it’s worth. Good video! Thank you...
hi i would recommend looking in to some Fluid Film fir the rust . it will stop it , john
I have heard of it but I think this trailer is past the point of no return John
@@ohiowoodburner hi that trailer still has alot life in it , it wont get rid of the rust but it will stop further rusting , or a diesel oil mix , i use a 50/50 mix on anything i think may rust , i have it in a old spray bottle , ever look at the residue around a diesel pump when your filling up with gas , . old waist oil and a roller does wonders also , your old and a bit rusty and we are not giving up on you , lol john
The last trailer I purchased was from a general contractor. It was rusted because contractors use them for dumpsters and leave them uncovered, The rain soaks the drywall and construction dirt and it just rots away. We have a full fab shop so I picked it up cheap, yanked the bed and welded in new steel and used POR on the entire thing. I would say I put 2k into it. The nice part with a trailer is in PA they are only 40 bucks a year registration for a 10000 GVW. The next trailer we purchase is going to be a hot dipped galvanized trailer with a grapple from Metavic. Loading the mini ex into the back and unloading it to load wood is a pita not to mention having to go back after dumping the wood to get the machine.
Por?
A neglected maintenance effort is to sprat paint any scratches and dings - weekly! Plus power wash at least weekly.
In Texas a new trailer can be registered at a reduced GVRW but only when titled new. This is good when you need volume more than weight.
The Griffin has the better frame design... tube blows i-beam out of the water on flex and weight. All the guys that say "but my I-beam will last forever", Yeah it will.. after the rest of your trailer rusted out so what's the point?
Also like the dual pistons on the Griffin.. smart. No wracking if the load shifts while up. Its too bad they had such a problem with rust. I am sure by now they have fully addressed it (if they're still in business).
The Moritz Does have the better floor..
You're right that bent up sides are stronger, BUT Moritz uses all 7ga floors on their trailers. They had to weld on lighter sides for weight savings since they used heavy i-beam.
The Griffin is simply the more serviceable trailer afaic. If you used a "rust converter" on the whole thing, then lightly painted with a black or grey primer, then hit the underside with Fluid Film and you'd be all set. That, and add a proper heavy trailer jack and maybe a 'wet-bolt' kit for the shackle to grease it.
As far as "gravity down"... that is the preferred system as it uses half the power from the battery. But most guys who live up north don't use their dump trailers in the salty cold. For you it seems like an okay fit. Dirt work would rather make more dump cycles in a day. Thanks for the video!
If you step in and stop that rust while it's still just on the surface, you'll save that Griffin for years of solid life 👍~
Great review on your dump 💩 trailers...The main reason I found out why most trailer manufacturers do 9990# instead of 10k is for liability insurance. Most people don't know and neither did I. But surely found out after being summons for a Dot. audit. All trailers 10,000# and over have to have liability insurance on them. If a trailer because detached from the towing vehicle, general liability won't cover damages to someone elses property 🤯
#9990 is the limit to be legal in Pennsylvania without a CDL too
Good to know Doyle. Thanks buddy
Great review. I just bought a 16 foot dump trailer. Even though it was only 2 years old, it was already beginning to rust. I bought some Eastwood encapsulating paint. It is $200 a gallon, but it is amazing. That with a topcoat and then spraying everything with one of my favorite things-Fluid Film. Fluid Film is wool wax and will make everything last 2 to 3 times as long. I would agree that dump trailers are amazing and versatile. They are difficult to live without. It is hard to believe that your Moritz has just a single spring loaded pin holding the tail closed. I would install a pin in the bottom of that pin, to insure it doesn't open. Otherwise, weld a latch on the doors, so that you can put a pin through the latch to secure the doors. No matter what, having the doors only secured on the bottom puts alot of pressure on the upper portions of the doors. Bad design.
The trailer twists a little going down the road. As it twists, the pin drags on the side of the hole and slides up a little. It is, at that point, against the side of the hole still, in a bind too tight for the spring to push it down. Then, the trailer twists again, pushing the pin up a little more. Eventually, the tapered part gets to the hole and it slides all the way up. Put a pin in the pin under the hole or in the door above the pin. Good review.
Nice look at a few different trailers.
I was told that in PA, you only need a CDL if the Combined Gross Weight of the truck and trailer exceeded 28,000 lbs you would need a class A CDL, that would mean that if your trailer was 10,000 lb GVW, it only applies if your truck is rated at 18,000lb GVW. I don't think any truck in the one ton class hits that mark. But the issue come in if they rated the GVWR at over 28k, then if your trailer is over 10k you need the CDL.
My dump trailer is rated at 14,000 lbs, my truck is rated at 8800 GVW with a GVWR (with trailer, of 22,000.
So my rig doesn't hit the mark where I'd need a CDL. The PA DMV website breaks it down a bit better.
I no longer live in PA, but travel there regularly so I keep up on what goes on there.
If I'm going that far with a loaded trailer, and will be weighing in at my max, I'd have to seriously consider not doing it in a pickup truck. It might do the job but I'd rather not put that kind of wear and tear on my own truck.
When it comes to dual rams, the big issue is if one ram fails under load. it almost always bends the crap out of the frame and/or box. With one big ram, if it fails, it just goes down. A buddy was cleaning up from a flood a few years ago with his dual ram trailer, he loaded it to the max with mud and debris from where his creek overflowed and the right ram dropped suddenly when he was dumping the load. it was on a slight incline to one side and when the ram dropped, the trailer twisted dropping the box on top of the tires on one side. he did what he could to get it back in place but it was bent. Worse yet he failed to notice that even after getting the box empty and pushed sort of back in place, the one tire was rubbing the fender and that blew out on the way home too. That was a tube frame and box but the tubing was pretty thin compared to mine.
My trailer has a C channel frame with 8 inch sides and 6" cross members on 12" centers with the box having 3/16" wall 2x3 framing under the two piece floor. The front wall is bolted in.
I bought that trailer new in 1999 and will probably have it forever. When I ordered it I specified exactly what I wanted and how it was to be built. I had been using an older, late 80's model and knew what worked for me and what were the weak points of the old trailer.
Another buddy has one with torsion suspension but after 5 years there's not much suspension left. The rebound element in those axles is rubber, and rubber rots and gets hard, or takes a set and leave the trailer sitting lower than it should. With springs, the worst thing I'll ever have to deal with is having to swap out the springs but after 24 years mine still look great.
The paint on mine was terrible, it had rust at all the seams after about three years. 6 years into owning it i sanded the bad spots and brush painted it with a Rustolastic from MAB. It lasted another 8 years or so, two years ago I got tired of looking at rust so i sand blasted the whole trailer, top bottom and all sides, inside and out. I pulled the axles, set it on a set of stands i made and sprayed the whole trailer with black epoxy bed liner that i had bought at auction. I put it on thick. I then serviced the wheel bearings and springs, I replaced the wheel bearings, grease, and put in some new spring bushings and it should be good for another 24 years. The tires are 10 ply LT tires, the original ST tires dry rotted away in three years. Its on its third set of tires which were new last summer.
Came here to say basically the same thing. Common misunderstanding, don't necessarily need a CDL over 10k in PA
A dual ram dump trailer had its lock pin fail & came out. We could not find it. The one working ram raised the load easy! Because the pivot is wide and don't Jam, it works I seen this myself.
Difference between torsion and springs. Spring axles will generally always have all 4 wheels on contact on uneven surfaces. Torsion axles are independent. Going over a deep rut or pot hole will allow a wheel (or two) to temporarily leave contact with the ground putting the extra weight on the other tire/axle. I've arm a heavily loaded torsion axle trailer break an axle under this condition.
Ya I have rented Moritz with torsion. I would never buy one. So easy to over load a single tire!
If the side of the trailer flexes or leans that will also raise the door up on the end where the pin is. I am looking at it from a physics perspective and not from experience.
To test the stability of the sidewall you could have the doors sticking out away from the trailer and pull down on it
If the door is not stabilized you could fasten it down some way.
A different way would be to have a backup fastener such as a chain going across that would hold if the pin came out.
Good job with the instructional video.
I had thought of that to where the pin sorta walks it way up until the tapered end of the pin works it way out. I need to drill it for a cotter pin etc.
@@ohiowoodburner
I don't know how it happened but a retaining pin would be a good remedy. Don't use a cotter pin. There are other pins that you have probably seen with the big circle that snaps open-and-shut.
I expect the manufacturer would be interested in this problem they created. Wouldn't they be liable? Shouldn't they start building better trailers? I expect it would be a very small cost for them to do better. Tell them you are on UA-cam.
I was told by a dealer for trailers that torsion is only good for on road use, and last about 20 years. If you were taking a trailer across a field to gather wood, springs are much better. Spring suspension is supposed cheaper to replace.
If you look up how torsion axles spring, you’ll see that this is true. The “spring” is four blocks of rubber that a square inner axle shaft twists inside of. Rubber dries out, cracks, fails.
Joe, I just want to correct one thing. In Pennsylvania you only need a CDL if you are over 26000 pounds in combination. I have 14k pound trailer and registered as a class 8 and I come in below a class A CDL.
I had a Big Tex 7x14 14k dump trailer. The quality was closer to your cheaper trailer. I sold it a few years ago, and I really miss having it. I intended to make money with it and never really did, but it was quite handy just having it around. I would love to have some aluminum ramps on my car hauler.
What about the aluminum dump trailers how do they hold up?
No clue on aluminum. Galvanized are much more pricey
Had a load trail gooseneck bought it for haul off after Rita & Catrina worked around Cameron la. I built up the sides to take more volume had a96f250 with 7.3 manual 5sp 4x4 with 33s had no complaints other than it rode like a buck board ! For lifting super heavy stuff before loading I would put a couple of 4x4s 1 on either side between where the front of the bed rested and the frame ! Also you have to stay on top greasing all points !!!
Very well put! Great information when looking to buy a tipping trailer. The one other thing I would consider when living in a winter season climate is having a telescopic lift for the trailer rather than an under body lift, which is subject to all the road salt and slush in the winter season.. Again a very helpful video. Thank you.!👍
Thanks! I would have thought the rear doors staying shut would be the most important feature!
Gravity down is a feature as well. Its usually a add on with power down. Gravity down doesnt use your battery which means you get more dumps in a day
4 piece constriction usually has a heavier gauge floor and sides are lighter gauge. As far as your pin on the tailgate, of there's room, drill a ¼" hole below the plate and use a hitch pin to keep it from popping out.
Great video Joe: After having a dump trailer in a winter environment- I would only buy a hot dipped galvanized dump trailer. I bought a Diamond C trailer which has really good paint. After a year it was rusting. I switched to dump trucks now, but I will be buying a N&N galvanized dump trailer. N&N make lightweight and heavy weight dump trailers. Any new trailers I buy will be galvanized. Personally, I would try to salvage your older trailer by sand blasting, priming, and painting.
Good insight Rich. I think the Griffin will be a yard trailer for now on.
The thind we all learned in days gone by. Great comparison. Loosing any load with company logo, is completely unacceptable.
Today's day and time , we need to look at and determine if this product is 75 % worth it .
Joe you have came a long way removing you position in a corporate field. To wood sales, and this you tube thing, I only wish I had your " JUST DO THE THANG ".
EXCELLENT VIDEO , keep all of us in you tube up to par..
the dual ram is important for stability and weight distribution. With your relatively light loads you may not need that but try dumping a load of soil.
On the Moritz tailgates I would get some way to lock that pin down. Drill a hole just above the spring and put a hairpin cotter through it when hauling on the highway, Leave it in the pump box the rest of the time.
Most state's are 26,001 lb before you need a Commercial license, at that weight it would require at least a "Class B" certification. Once you get over 33K and/or have Combination vehicle's (Semi's etc.) you need a "Class A" certification. There's also an "Air-break's" certification if equipped, anything under 10K (9999 lb or less) total doesn't require any certification, just the regular "Class C" license. Didn't know about Pennsylvania having the exception.
Thanks for posting Ray. I am not totally up on the law but know i am compliant here!
I got into a Bwise 15400 last year. The dealer claims that 26,000 combination is the rule in PA. I've also been told 10,000 is the limit. He provided me with a flow chart that the state provided him showing the 26,000 rule. What you need to get to that is a truck that is 10,000 gvw. A 1 ton puts you over the 26k rule. It is a really nice tool in the arsenal.
@@markw2266 That sounds about right compared to NC law, 10K or less in a single vehicle is the normal Class 1-4, Class 5 being up to 26K (but not over). Class 6-8 requiring a Commercial certification on your license. A or B depending on the weight and/or amount of vehicle's and breaks type. Basically it's 16K per axle although some axle's are rated for +26K witch would require a Class "B" certification.
The cam lock is much better! It's always secured.. The one with the pin, you can drill a hole in it & put a flat washer on it & put an R key or clevis pin to make sure it doesn't open.. Also the one with just the pin, if there's weight Against the door, you can't pop the pin, you have to hammer it out! & eventually it will create an egg shape in the hole & if you haul sand or fine material it will leak out! Love your video's! You take your time & speak thoroughly & clearly & explain things where people can understand, & if you don't know, you don't let your pride get in the way of that, you let people know that too! Thank you for sharing your video's!
GOD BLESS YOU!!
PRAISE THE LORD!! AMEN!!
😘🙏🏻❤️📖🙌🏻🕊
What about installing on the inside back of the Moritz trailer 2 cables, 1 on each side with asome kind of hook to keep the back doors secure when driving?
I would drill a hole on the pin of the grey trailer and put a hitch pin in it this way it can't pop up. It's an extra step opening the doors but it will give you a little piece of mind. Just a thought
I have thought of that. I would have to remove the pin but it would be worth the effort. Stay cool this week.!!
Great job showing and telling about them dump trailers. have a good one and thanks again for telling what you know about them dump trailers see ya next time see ya bye.
Not sure if you will see this. Missed it when it came out. I would dtill some holes and insert a hitch pin with haitpin clip to keep closed. Anyway ejoyed the video. Thanks Earl
Good job on this video Joe. I do think having the seam down the middle is more prone to cracking from dumping heavy items in. Having floor welded along the edge allows for a better weld joint and it does not allow big heavy objects to hit the weld joint directly.
Stitch welds under the trailer are common for 2 reasons. When you weld, the heated area shrinks causing added stress and major warping on light gauge materials. It also would add a lot of extra labor and production cost in welding those joints solid. Stitch welds can be found on all kinds of things, without compromising structural integrity. It is a good idea to caulk between stitches if corrosion is a concern... Like road salt
I agree that the I beam is better for the frame. PJ trailers used to advertise tube frames until they started having problems with cracking. Now they went to beam frames. I believe @Worlds Okayest Farmer did a video on his experience on this too.
My next dump trailer will be galvanized with hydraulic jack. Gooseneck most likely due to how much better they tow... that is unless I find a good deal on a f450 4x4 with a 12 ft dump bed first 😊
Take care Joe, hope to see you in Booneville
Excellent post Chris. Thanks for the crash course in metal work!!! I prob won't be in Booneville but def at the PB. I want to talk to you about a spring show at my place next May.
I worked at a company in maintenance.
We had hydraulic dock levelers that would freeze up during winter especially if there was a breeze going through making it even colder.
We cured our problems by going to Airplane Hydraulic Fluid.
Handles extremely cold weather due to planes flying at high altitudes where it is extremely cold.👍🇺🇸
You don’t want full length welds holding the floor on. For multiple reasons. 1) it would take forever to build and you’d warp the crap out of it. 2) steel needs to have some sorta flex. 3) if any moisture does get into the unwelded area it can not escape.
I have a 3500 chevy rack body dump. I attached solid side to the racks. I haven't attached the rear racks because i want to have them hinged so i can swing them opened. The problem i have is finding a way to hold them closed. Finally from your video the light bulb went off. I drove tractor trailers and from your video i will copy the lever closure that all tractor trailers use to keep the back doors safely and securely closed. I was going to use a pin but now i realize that would have been a safety hazzard. Thanks a bunch for your great video.
Thanks for watching. The term that describes that style lock is a "cam lock"
Very informative video. Next time you’re in the market for a trailer check out N&N trailers. They are made of galvanized material, no paint & hopefully much less corrosion. Probably more expensive but with better quality comes more money. 👍Have a great day.
I didn't agree with you on the smell of oak (love it) until I got a sinus infection. Man that made it smell horrible. Cherry and maple too. But you're pretty spot on with your assessment of the trailers. This was a well thought out and informative review.
Depends on the variety of Oak. Some red oak varieties smell AWFUL.
@@DaveW74TVN Red oak is red oak here. I'm not sure about elsewhere. But words usually mean something. I'm at a loss how red oak is red oak here, but somewhere else it's red oak actually means piss elm... But ok.
Quick tip: take some silicone caulk (you can get it in a dark color) and caulk those gaps between the underside beams and bottom sheet steel. It'll keep water and road debris from getting between them. Many trailer manufactures do this
Nice video Joe. Elaine from Canada here, my husband asking “ what are you watching?”. I say a dump trailer comparison video. He says, “Whaaat?” Ha ha ha. You explained a lot of good points, what a huge asset to your equipment inventory. Have a great week.
haha!!! Thanks Elaine!!
Nice. I would probably caulk those seams underneath with Big Stretch if it were mine. Im sure there is movement but i think it would hold up and things would spray off much cleaner.
Have you considered marine coating like core tar epoxy paint .
The key to longevity with a dump trailer is leave the box about 1/3 of the way when not in use . No water can pool causing major corrosion issues . Good and interesting vid Joe ! Cheers
Just crank the jack
Hi great video. What size are your trailers? How much will they hold of lose tossed in wood? I’m looking at a 7x12 but thought I may be better with 7x14 what your thoughts?
both are 6x10. I'm not sure what they would hold tossed but neatly stacked they hold exactly 1 cord even with the boards. I considered bigger but decided on smaller for ease on my truck and the fact I prob wouldn't be able to fill a bigger trailer by myself out in the woods as I could a 10 footer
Just ideas. Oil the top of the frames. A little goes along way in preserving steel. The tailgate opening- drill the tip of the pin and where the pin goes below the base-plate add a Clovis pin while transporting. Cheap safety and insurance.
A chain bolted or welded would be a simple safety catch for the tail gate.
The torsion suspension fails at the bushings. The bars usually last beyond the vehicle life. Just inspect for loose bushings as they wear.
Spray your trailers in and out with fluid film or a mixture of drain oil and Kerosene. Been running trailers daily since 1988. I tried it all. The oil stopped the rust. Not pretty. Not clean. But easy to apply. And it worked. Look into brake maintenance and adjustment. The magnets grind down and need to be replaced.
I'm so glad I live in Texas, driving a 10 year old Truck with zero rust...
I am a huge fan of telescopic dump trailers. They go to a much higher angle then yours and dumps stay in a smaller area.👍
We have a local place that specializes in redoing trailers. I see their adds alot. $1600-$2200 for all new lights/wiring harness plus they will sandblast and repaint. Their slogan is Why buy new? We will make yours better then new!
I've seen those but never considered getting one. Seems this style is ideal for firewood at least.
If I can afford it, I would buy more expensive trailer because I like the frame. I also prefer the Leaf spring! Both bounce because they don't have shock absorber to take care of the springs!
Plus a leaf spring puts equal weight on each axle. Yes the torsion ball suspension is much less repairs but they do NOT equalize the load between axles unless the trailer is perfectly level. I have had both and have blown tires cost more than broken springs over the life of the trailer.
Fully galvanized trailers are the only way to go. Love the new wood yard.
Have a great day.
Thanks Howie!!
lots of trailers just have a sprayed on coat of paint, no primer, no prep. Get a quality trailer, 4 wheel brakes, good hitch yoke, tie downs, ramps, and especially dumping. the good trailer can lift the bed more vertically. The cost difference is worth the difference.
Torsion bars ware a splined rod in the axle tube that goes to the hub on each side the steel bar actually acts as a spring by twisting up and down replaced a bunch on military vehicles over a period of 15 year they are tough as nails. Just a FYI great video appreciate it I'm in the market for one myself. Keep up the good work.
I have a griffin also. I had it sandblasted and repainted about three or 4 years ago and don’t pull it in the winter. Ours are about the same age. I like mine but the powder coat was bad too. I would never buy a powder coat trailer again. I would buy a galvanized
I think I'm about the same opinion Bill but the galvanized was too pricey for me
Here is the lift ram ratings. Telescope ram in the front #1.
Scissor lift #2
Twin rams under the box #3
Single ram under the box #4.
Never heard of a moritz, griffin is sold around here by a guy that sells toppers and utility trailers and yard sheds. No way to repair his line. The canadian galvanized trailer would be my #1 choice if i lived in salt as you do. Down here its diamond c, texas pride, gator made, pj. Etc. thanks for the video.
A good pressure wash and a couple coats of tremclad or POR15 in the spring and a coat of fluid film each fall goes a long way
there is no need to fully weld the bed bracing doesn't add anything other than time to make and warpage. 1 in of weld on mild steel is 70000 psi tear strength. there there to keep the deck sheet from making a whole lot of noise. keeps sheet tight to limit vibration and keep sheet tight.
if it's not galvanized take 50% diesel 50% ATF or used motor oil mix. put in pump sprayer and spray it in the summer and in the fall all underneath and everywhere's.
Same deal here in NC Joe. 10k+ u need a Provisional CDL. But if u have a Farm and run a Farm tag on your Truck you don't have to have a CDL here. There are loopholes so check into it if u can. Firewood may be a Forestry exemption.
Nice video, try to find a heavy duty and long U-Bolt and drill holes on top of each door of the Moritz and all you have to do is drop it on the holes to make sure those doors don't swing open, or make one to go at least 10 inch down and have a strong magnet to hold it so it don't jump off the trailer.
Joe, you are original and down to earth. Enjoy watching, keep it up, from South Africa.
Thanks for the nice post Sagren!
On that gate that likes to pop open... maybe add a locking pin near the top. Possibly a few welded loops with a hitch pin?
I've thought of that. I'm thinking something can be done
@@ohiowoodburner tarp strap.
😁
Those fit a half cord?
Take that Griffin trailer off the road... take off the wheels and go over it with Rust Converter..
Then give it some actual Paint when done. Then new reflector tape and you will be good to go.
These aren't cars w/thin sheet metal.. if you just tend to that rust now, you can bring that trailer up to New and it'll basically stay that way.
Be good to yourself... don't let that trailer rust to cr@p just because it had poor powder coating.. protect it and use it with pride 👍
Torsion suspension is a time proven application but it is also the reason your gate opens. Think Torsion? Twisting allows the slave lock to rise above its sleeve. Add cam locks. It's cheap to do and will be your forever answer. Hope that helps.
A solution for your rust problem is relatively easy. Rustoleum sells a RUST CONVERTER in the spray can section, about 6 bucks, you spray it on rust, its flat black, and it converts the rust to iron phosphate and will not rust again. About 6 cans will do the whole trailer and frame- just where its rusty. Then, machinery maintenance painting with a brush. Buy a quart of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Red primer, some painters coveralls and painters gloves, a quart of mineral spirits for thinner and cleaning, wood handle "chip brushes" Home depot calls them; (2 or 3 bucks each, buy 2 or 3 inch size.) A spray can of gray automotive primer, and a quart of Gloss Black Rustoleum. Use a 1 quart paint pot, 1/4 full, 1 tsp thinner, Just slap it on. Make sure its covered good. Sometimes you need to reach back with your brush and smooth out a run or sag. Even if its not great, your trailer won't rust away. Maybe your wife can do it. They know how to use hair spray and fingernail polish. I bet she would do a better job!
So many great ones... Better with not straight steel... higher sides 😊
Ive had to sand and repaint my 7x14 dump trailer. Used rustoleum oil based black gloss. Gotta keep them greased, well painted and washed to deal with all the salt in winter which is 5-6months long in WI
I think mine has passed the point of no return Garrett!
@@ohiowoodburner yeah, as long as it keeps dumping its a good woodyard wheelbarrow
Had a load in la. mixed with a little of everything after Rita lifted the load some hungup instead of sliding out I use a T handle that’s got a small hook welded on the end to help with emptying the dump . Anyway, this guy next to me is off loading comes over says did you see what come out of your trailer? I said other than trash? He started walking over to where I dumped he has a pole with a hook he peels back apiece of carpet and there’s about a 6’ gater track ho had got into it’s back but it was still very much alive! Be careful when unloading!!
Thanks for the review. Any issues pulling with your F150? I have a 2012 Silverado 1500 5.3 and am looking to get a 10ft dump trailer. Thanks!
Solar pannels recharging my batteries. Works great. Always charging while they sit. Definately agree box frames rust out first. Thats where the oil spray stops the rust.
Never never lend a trailer 😭
Well said Tony!
Winter are harsh in pa and oh but that’s a shame about that paint. Thanks for the review they look real handy.
The paint was a huge bummer for sure Keith
I own a 2021 Griffin and they do power coating now mine is completely power coated
Doing sine research for some dump trailers I'm looking at and this was the best video I've seen yet, well done 👏
Interesting take on economics for 2 earnings households. I would say its more a question of how much reserve income you have vs how many income streams you have. If your household is spending everything it makes or more than it brings in then that's setting up for failure more than diversification on income itself is.
thoughtful overview. I run a similar trailer daily and STILL learned a ton from your video. much appreciated
I think its the same in ny i just bought one and the gvwr rating is 9999 they have shipped some to states that dont require a cdl and they are sold wit the axel rating of 14000
I can feel your fear regarding the doors open. When you are buying a device - in first place it should do what it’s meant to do. And a trailer should bring load safely from A to B. Nothing less. And if it doesn’t - because it’s losing the load - it fails in the main purpose. Secondary purpose - like being specially comfortable - is useless if primary purpose is not fulfilled. I think paint is secondary, doors are primary.
But changing the doors closing system might be cheaper than derosting and panting.
Well said Lumberyard!!
You can take the Griffin to Diversified Maintenance in North Bloomfield for fresh paint. They do a great job of restoring equipment.
Great review of your trailers, Joe….informative and thorough! 👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it RG!
The tab on the trailer barn door lock is not for holding it closed , it is actully so when you pull handle up and turn it , one of the pins on the locking handle (Pin) sits on top of the tab when you turn the handle in either direction to hold the locking handle pin up , so that when your closing the end gate you don't have to pull up on the pin or slam it closed, I always use the cam type on my trailers , when they are closed they are closed , the other Pin if your trailer flex's which it will depending on the type load you have and of course the road condition, as for the paint issue , paint is paint and salt is not it's friend, If it was mine and I have done it before , Is I have cleaned up and or sand blasted the trailer and frame , and had it covered with either the Hercules bed liner or the Line-X bed liner , those both wear line iron and they don't fade chip or peel ..
Thanks Joe, Great content. What size trailers to do have? How much wood do they hold? i.e. one cord…
They are both 10 x 6. Stacked neatly they both hold 1 cord
There is a place in Jackson center that rebuilds torsion axles, north of dayton
We are planning a trip to Dayton this summer to the air museum
My equipment trailer has Dexter axles. I like them. They have the EZlube feature, with grease fittings similar to a boat trailer.
Same here. My Griffin has the same fittings
You are close on the GVWR and CDL requirements, but not quite right for PA at least. You only need the CDL if your combined GCWR with the trailer and truck is over 26,000lbs. The 10k lb requirement only comes into play if you cross that 26k lb mark. Then its a difference between a class A and B license.