In some other video you said that the float voltage was too low for the car batteries if I remember correctly. What was your final conclusion about proper float voltage for flooded car batteries and how long did those last, if you remember?
Any idea how different the 120v boards are compared to the 240v models you are working on? I suspect mine need new caps, but I am really bad at board soldering and very apprehensive about charged capacitors... Trying to figure out what it might look like in there, and maybe if I should just use an electronics repair shop.
It would be basically the same, but if you're bad at soldering, you're going to end up damaging the board. It won't be worthwhile taking to a shop, you'd end up paying out of your nose.
Great videos! One thing about the external battery connector: I wanted to add an extra one instead of routing the internal one to the outside. I didn't wanna solder the cables to the PCB like the internal ones so I screwed them to the heatsinks, basically like it's done in the bigger ones. I connected "+" to ONE of the inner heatsinks and "-" together with the black transformer. When I start up the unit it gives me a "charger error" as long as an external battery is connected and when I connect two batteries the transformer starts to buzz. I observed your Smart-UPS 2200 hack video and the only difference you made was using two "+" connections, but then again it's 48V so I don't know if it's necessary to split positive to two wires. Might this do the trick?
Here again after 4 years. I have a APC Smart UPS SUA1000. I can't get it to cold start. When the on button is pressed, I hear a click, and the battery status light comes on. It sits there then goes out after a few minutes. When plugged in, the same thing happens, except after a few minutes the online light comes on. If I then simulate a power cut, the inverter starts up. When the input power is turned back on, the inverter goes off back. No grinding sound. What could be the problem?
Great video series! I've recently become a 'fan' of your channel. Can you please tell me what ESR meter you use. It looks fancy. Also for the capacitor that you used to start the UPS I noticed that it was a 45000 uF, 35V capacitor. I only have access to a 20000uF, 100V capacitor. Would that be suitable to start the UPS to change the float voltage? Thanks for the help and the videos!
Charles McQueen The ESR meter is an old prototype that isn't publicly available yet. As for your capacitor, it might work. As long as the voltage rating is above that of the battery voltage, it won't explode. I Just use the 45 000 µF junk box capacitor since it has those handy screw terminals.
FFcossag Thank you for the reply. Can you recommend an ESR meter that is available for purchase? I need one badly but I'm new to all of this and I would appreciate your advice. Thanks.
Charles McQueen I'm afraid I can't, since I only own this prototype. We built it because there weren't really any good, affordable ESR meters around at the time, but that was a few years ago, so there might be more options available today.
Why the batteries on the concrete floor ? Put the batteries on some plywood or a couple 2x4s and maybe a plastic tub to contain any battery acid leaks. Waiting on some batteries for my SUA 1500 APC (ebay some months ago) to power up for first time. Another smaller 1500 APC unit has been running in failure mode for a few months (7 Ah batteries are sill good, I think). Thank you for the video ! tjl
Hello, I see have great experience in tweaking of such useful devices like UPS. My question is quite simple: I have SUA1000i, I would like to remove its internal 12V 12Ah (2 pieces) and connect (preliminary make a hole as you did) 12V 40Ah or even 12V 18Ah (2 pieces) - of course, AGM, not automobile ones. Will low internal resistance of higher capacity kill the UPS? Or, maybe, only the charging time will increase? Thanks a lot
The SUA1000I will overheat and blow up with bigger batteries unless you add a fan. Sometimes the internal fan header works, so that you can just connect a 24 V fan right up to the board.
Fan is not a problem, I can install it. My load is about 10%, not more, and the temperature of the transformer after 1-hour battery mode is 37C, as to transistors - they are cold; so, approximately 25C. But in case of 18Ah instead of 12Ah batteries - do you mean the UPS will overheat in battery mode? Or in charging mode? Thanks
@@FFcossag Hello, speaking about the fan terminals on the UPS board of the SUA1000i, could you please point me where its at? I really wanted add a fan to it, coz I don't think it came with one. The SUA1500i is what has the fan.
You have any experience with the Smart-UPS 750? I aquired one some time ago, but managed to bin the batteries WITH the original connectors. It's been on the shelf for a time now as I have a Smart-UPS 1500 with good batteries running my shack alone, but I might think about modifying the 750 to run bigger batteries for another purpose. Regardless, do you know what type of connector the 750 version uses? It is a type of sliding connector which disconnects as soon as you pull the batteries, but I have not managed to find it online. Thanks. You also got me thinking about cleaning up my own 1500; it has been in duty for soon to be 3 years and could probably need a capacitor replacement plus some help from the compressor. Anyways, good video - I enjoyed it.
+LB0VG I'm glad you like my content. As far as the 750 goes, I'm afraid I haven't got a clue as to what the connector might be. I'm almost afraid it's proprietary. I've only ever seen them on SU750 battery packs.
Ah, that's what I thought... Well, I'll see if I can mod a more versatile connector onto it then. When rebuilding the RBC48 pack, do you know what fuse-rating they use? Also, what type of wire would you prefer in such an install? I have quite alot of 12AWG cable available. Thanks.
LB0VG The standard SUA750I pack is fused at 50 A. As far as wire is concerned, match the stock or step it up if you want extended runtime (stock cables overheat)
Thanks. I ended up adding a couple of spade-connectors and hooked them up to an extra Anderson connector I had from an older battery pack. I already had a "new" replacement battery lying around for my SUA1500 so I hooked it up and what do you know - the unit worked no worries. I'll see if I can make a better solution for the cables as I have nowhere to poke them through (the Smart-connector is too far away for the stock cables to reach) Currently working at changing the charging voltage, something which should have (and will be) been done to my SUA1500 downstairs which unfortunately have been running 3 years with the stock charging voltage. I guess it's too late to save those batteries.
Hi. Do you know what was the reason for the noise when running on batteries before, as you mentioned here: ua-cam.com/video/uSNu18F5rG8/v-deo.html ? I have a SUA750 and a SU1000XL and they both have weird and sinister transformer noise when running on external lead-acid batteries. So that I'm simply afraid of using them.
Thanks for sharing this awesome info. Spesialy your txt file about the different comands the UPS takes.. ;D Just got one of this my self from work as a new APC battery is to much money for them as they ONLY will use APC batteries.. hehe So a UPS for me.. Question: What is your opinion on reanimating SLA batteries from this kind of UPSs? Asking as I am mainly going to us mine as surge and brown out protection and not too considered about battery run time.
It generally can't be done. They usually fail because they run out of electrolyte, and that's usually in conjuncture with overly high charge voltages, causing high pressures and deformation/cracking of the plates. It's better to just pay the 30 or so dollars that a pair of Shenzhenian SLA bricks will set you back.
Do you run "battery runtime calibration" with these external batteries? If I cancel it early, will it still give me a somewhat reliable calibration? say running the bank down to 75%? or do I really have to let it go down to 20% SOC?
The battery runtime calibration basically doesn't work on big packs. You need to manually run it down while monitoring the voltage, and adjust the number of packs parameter and the battery constant through the CLI.
@@FFcossag How does one do that? Is there another video or a site somewhere? I found some info about the battery constant, but nothing on changing the external battery parameter via the serial port. EDIT: Corrected spelling errors.
I got s Smart UPS 1000, removed the internal batteries and added 2 Trojan 12 v 100 Ah batteries. I have an external charger on it. When turned on it may or may not come on; the battery level lights will come on then nothing. If you turn it off and try again it may work. Can you suggest what may be the problem? The caps have not been changed but there is no "groaning" sound.
But why does it happen and can it be fixed? Do you think it may be voltage drop in the cable when it tries to start up? Just to make it clear, this happens when it is unplugged from the utility outlet. When plugged in, it works consistently. I want to use it in emergencies and therefore would prefer it comes on when I need it. Do you think it may be voltage drop in the cable when it tries to start up?
FFcossag Just an update on that issue of not coming on sometimes. I found a procedure which works consistently. With the UPS off and unplugged from the ac , while holding down the off button, press and hold the on button. Then release the off button. When you hear the beep, release the on button and the inverter will come up (always). I do not know why it works.
Those blue capacitors APC uses as break up timer are made by Chinese "quality" junk maker Jianghai. Neighbour's Back-UPS ES had real nice symptoms because of those: When on it was running quite hot... easily felt even through that heat insulating plastic casing. And if it cooled down then starting it was like listening some time bomb: After power on's battery test it would keep rapidly switching between AC and battery with nice clicking of relays. With speed of that slowing until after warming of minute or two it would accept to work on AC. Checking inside it was running hot because it was apparently trying to charge battery quite often. After recapping also that hot running disappeared. Back-UPS ES should really have caps changed to very high quality ones or then swapped periodically like engine oil in cars because of no airflow.
I don't use much power at all, because I'm a huge efficiency nut. The power bill for this house is usually pretty big (100-300 €), however, since we have electric heating and ridiculously poor insulation (if you park a car beside the house and it's slightly frosty outside, the side facing the house will thaw from the irradiated heat). My workshop uses between 100 and 200 W usually, and next to nothing when I'm not there and my computer is off. The amount of time that more than 250 W is used by me, is easily less than 10 % of the time on a monthly basis. The home server, including the modem, UPS, and WLAN AP, use 65 W on average, 24/7. Assuming 16 day-hours of 200 W usage in the workshop, and 65 W 24/7 by the server, the monthly cost (at 13 c/kWh) for my workshop and server, is 18,56 €. So, in rough terms, my electronics hobby related stuff costs "about twenty bucks".
FFcossag Well, I still believe you should look around for good -- inexpensive -- deals on solar panels and hook up numerous panels. The most expensive part of an off-grid solar install is the batteries and you have obtain so many batteries already. More than one person -- or even a household -- would reasonably need. I strongly urge you to find deals -- like you have with batteries -- on PV panels and install a massive solar panel array to fully utilize all your batteries. I have to say I'm quite envious of all the batteries you have and the large piece of land you see to have. I'm in Silicon Valley in California and land is extremely expensive here. We have tiny little lots -- in comparison to your lot -- for our homes here. But I do admit our weather here is more conducive for solar energy production. :-)
lanceguilin Your tiny lot probably gets as much sunlight as our larger one. I'm well aware of my silly battery situation, but you simply don't come across "deals" on solar panels here, since almost no one does it. I am planning on expanding the system to maximise the utility of the Morningstar controller at some stage, but that's a 3000 Euro investment, and I simply do not have such money available to throw into solar, right now.
I have this exact same SUA1500 Smart UPS model. I want to replace the existing 24V internal fan whose bearings have died. What is the safest way to discharge the internal capacitors after turning off, unplugging from mains and unplugging the batteries? Would pressing the "0" button for 10 seconds do the trick?
I recently purchased one of those UPSes, and after replacing the 22uf capacitors it makes a grunting noise (don't know if it comes from the transformer or maybe a bad relay), buzzer died (replacement is silent as well), and the fan does not work (tried known good from another unit, no spin, the original fan is just dead), and to top it off, it deems every battery pack as faulty (both known bad and known good). Do you think there is anything more I can do to fix it, or might it be a good time to cut my losses and send it off to the scrapyard? edit: spelling
I have several APC UPSs (more than 10 years old) that need repair, so I bought a bag of 22 uf caps from Amazon. If that does not fix them, I will scrap them. Here are some UA-cam videos that show other things that can go wrong with a UPS: Bad relays: ua-cam.com/video/JBXUvqku6XM/v-deo.html Bad caps and relay: ua-cam.com/video/lpS8607tarc/v-deo.html Bad FETs and ICs: ua-cam.com/video/HATu1YweIoY/v-deo.html
In some other video you said that the float voltage was too low for the car batteries if I remember correctly. What was your final conclusion about proper float voltage for flooded car batteries and how long did those last, if you remember?
Any idea how different the 120v boards are compared to the 240v models you are working on?
I suspect mine need new caps, but I am really bad at board soldering and very apprehensive about charged capacitors...
Trying to figure out what it might look like in there, and maybe if I should just use an electronics repair shop.
It would be basically the same, but if you're bad at soldering, you're going to end up damaging the board. It won't be worthwhile taking to a shop, you'd end up paying out of your nose.
Great videos! One thing about the external battery connector: I wanted to add an extra one instead of routing the internal one to the outside. I didn't wanna solder the cables to the PCB like the internal ones so I screwed them to the heatsinks, basically like it's done in the bigger ones. I connected "+" to ONE of the inner heatsinks and "-" together with the black transformer. When I start up the unit it gives me a "charger error" as long as an external battery is connected and when I connect two batteries the transformer starts to buzz. I observed your Smart-UPS 2200 hack video and the only difference you made was using two "+" connections, but then again it's 48V so I don't know if it's necessary to split positive to two wires. Might this do the trick?
ahhh, you're saving up for capacitor popcorn night, are you? don't forget to add butter.
What caps are those, please? Can you link the best ones to use for replacement? Thank you!
I have a UPS Apc 2200. Can I connect 4 batteries 100 amber with it? Do I need an external charger for the batteries?
Here again after 4 years. I have a APC Smart UPS SUA1000. I can't get it to cold start. When the on button is pressed, I hear a click, and the battery status light comes on. It sits there then goes out after a few minutes. When plugged in, the same thing happens, except after a few minutes the online light comes on. If I then simulate a power cut, the inverter starts up. When the input power is turned back on, the inverter goes off back. No grinding sound. What could be the problem?
Hold the 0 button down for 10 seconds, then hold the 1 button until it turns on. Usually fixes it.
Great video series! I've recently become a 'fan' of your channel. Can you please tell me what ESR meter you use. It looks fancy. Also for the capacitor that you used to start the UPS I noticed that it was a 45000 uF, 35V capacitor. I only have access to a 20000uF, 100V capacitor. Would that be suitable to start the UPS to change the float voltage? Thanks for the help and the videos!
Charles McQueen The ESR meter is an old prototype that isn't publicly available yet. As for your capacitor, it might work. As long as the voltage rating is above that of the battery voltage, it won't explode. I Just use the 45 000 µF junk box capacitor since it has those handy screw terminals.
FFcossag Thank you for the reply. Can you recommend an ESR meter that is available for purchase? I need one badly but I'm new to all of this and I would appreciate your advice. Thanks.
Charles McQueen I'm afraid I can't, since I only own this prototype. We built it because there weren't really any good, affordable ESR meters around at the time, but that was a few years ago, so there might be more options available today.
@@charlesmcqueen4694 Agar Ham iski battery capacity badhate Hain To is iski capacity badhate hain ya nahin
Which software is that and where can I download it? I've been searching and cannot find it.
+Donovan Lym apcupsd
Thank you!@@FFcossag
Why the batteries on the concrete floor ? Put the batteries on some plywood or a couple 2x4s and maybe a plastic tub to contain any battery acid leaks. Waiting on some batteries for my SUA 1500 APC (ebay some months ago) to power up for first time. Another smaller 1500 APC unit has been running in failure mode for a few months (7 Ah batteries are sill good, I think). Thank you for the video ! tjl
+Tim Lipinski Concrete does not harm batteries. That's a myth from literally about 100 years ago.
I just recapped my 1500, its a 120v 60hz model and it still kinda has the weird grunting noise on startup. Any ideas?
It's usual for it to go "bonk". That's just the magnetics interacting with the case metal.
@@FFcossag makes sense, its an old 2002 model so its certainly been around for a while.
Hello, I see have great experience in tweaking of such useful devices like UPS. My question is quite simple: I have SUA1000i, I would like to remove its internal 12V 12Ah (2 pieces) and connect (preliminary make a hole as you did) 12V 40Ah or even 12V 18Ah (2 pieces) - of course, AGM, not automobile ones. Will low internal resistance of higher capacity kill the UPS? Or, maybe, only the charging time will increase? Thanks a lot
The SUA1000I will overheat and blow up with bigger batteries unless you add a fan. Sometimes the internal fan header works, so that you can just connect a 24 V fan right up to the board.
Fan is not a problem, I can install it. My load is about 10%, not more, and the temperature of the transformer after 1-hour battery mode is 37C, as to transistors - they are cold; so, approximately 25C. But in case of 18Ah instead of 12Ah batteries - do you mean the UPS will overheat in battery mode? Or in charging mode? Thanks
@@FFcossag Hello, speaking about the fan terminals on the UPS board of the SUA1000i, could you please point me where its at?
I really wanted add a fan to it, coz I don't think it came with one.
The SUA1500i is what has the fan.
You have any experience with the Smart-UPS 750? I aquired one some time ago, but managed to bin the batteries WITH the original connectors. It's been on the shelf for a time now as I have a Smart-UPS 1500 with good batteries running my shack alone, but I might think about modifying the 750 to run bigger batteries for another purpose. Regardless, do you know what type of connector the 750 version uses? It is a type of sliding connector which disconnects as soon as you pull the batteries, but I have not managed to find it online. Thanks.
You also got me thinking about cleaning up my own 1500; it has been in duty for soon to be 3 years and could probably need a capacitor replacement plus some help from the compressor. Anyways, good video - I enjoyed it.
+LB0VG I'm glad you like my content. As far as the 750 goes, I'm afraid I haven't got a clue as to what the connector might be. I'm almost afraid it's proprietary. I've only ever seen them on SU750 battery packs.
Ah, that's what I thought... Well, I'll see if I can mod a more versatile connector onto it then.
When rebuilding the RBC48 pack, do you know what fuse-rating they use? Also, what type of wire would you prefer in such an install? I have quite alot of 12AWG cable available.
Thanks.
LB0VG The standard SUA750I pack is fused at 50 A. As far as wire is concerned, match the stock or step it up if you want extended runtime (stock cables overheat)
Thanks. I ended up adding a couple of spade-connectors and hooked them up to an extra Anderson connector I had from an older battery pack. I already had a "new" replacement battery lying around for my SUA1500 so I hooked it up and what do you know - the unit worked no worries.
I'll see if I can make a better solution for the cables as I have nowhere to poke them through (the Smart-connector is too far away for the stock cables to reach)
Currently working at changing the charging voltage, something which should have (and will be) been done to my SUA1500 downstairs which unfortunately have been running 3 years with the stock charging voltage. I guess it's too late to save those batteries.
Hi. Do you know what was the reason for the noise when running on batteries before, as you mentioned here: ua-cam.com/video/uSNu18F5rG8/v-deo.html ? I have a SUA750 and a SU1000XL and they both have weird and sinister transformer noise when running on external lead-acid batteries. So that I'm simply afraid of using them.
It's usually caused by the 22 µF capacitors going bad with age. You can still use them like that, they just sound bad.
@@FFcossag Thank you so much.
Thanks for sharing this awesome info. Spesialy your txt file about the different comands the UPS takes.. ;D
Just got one of this my self from work as a new APC battery is to much money for them as they ONLY will use APC batteries.. hehe
So a UPS for me..
Question: What is your opinion on reanimating SLA batteries from this kind of UPSs?
Asking as I am mainly going to us mine as surge and brown out protection and not too considered about battery run time.
It generally can't be done. They usually fail because they run out of electrolyte, and that's usually in conjuncture with overly high charge voltages, causing high pressures and deformation/cracking of the plates. It's better to just pay the 30 or so dollars that a pair of Shenzhenian SLA bricks will set you back.
10-4. And Tnx for super quick reply And even taking the time to explain your answer. I have just started to get really into battery teck as a hobby.
Do you run "battery runtime calibration" with these external batteries? If I cancel it early, will it still give me a somewhat reliable calibration? say running the bank down to 75%? or do I really have to let it go down to 20% SOC?
The battery runtime calibration basically doesn't work on big packs. You need to manually run it down while monitoring the voltage, and adjust the number of packs parameter and the battery constant through the CLI.
@@FFcossag How does one do that? Is there another video or a site somewhere? I found some info about the battery constant, but nothing on changing the external battery parameter via the serial port. EDIT: Corrected spelling errors.
hi teacher how to i install of A FAN to 1000v UPS Model APC please help me
hi teacher how many ah fuse to between tow battery you are use
If you're still wondering, the SUA1500 model uses 18AH batteries and the fuse is 100A.
Sir , nice work ! , but using external batteries need an external chargers ! , did you use them ? any specifications ?
No, because that is not the case.
What is the charging algorithm in this ups?
+Donovan Lym Constant voltage with a current limit. No smarts.
WHat is the ESR meter you're using?
+chewinggumking It's a one-off prototype - I'm afraid it isn't available for purchase.
I got s Smart UPS 1000, removed the internal batteries and added 2 Trojan 12 v 100 Ah batteries. I have an external charger on it. When turned on it may or may not come on; the battery level lights will come on then nothing. If you turn it off and try again it may work. Can you suggest what may be the problem? The caps have not been changed but there is no "groaning" sound.
That sounds like normal behaviour. They do that sometimes.
But why does it happen and can it be fixed? Do you think it may be voltage drop in the cable when it tries to start up? Just to make it clear, this happens when it is unplugged from the utility outlet. When plugged in, it works consistently. I want to use it in emergencies and therefore would prefer it comes on when I need it.
Do you think it may be voltage drop in the cable when it tries to start up?
FFcossag Just an update on that issue of not coming on sometimes. I found a procedure which works consistently. With the UPS off and unplugged from the ac , while holding down the off button, press and hold the on button. Then release the off button. When you hear the beep, release the on button and the inverter will come up (always). I do not know why it works.
not bad runtime :)
Those blue capacitors APC uses as break up timer are made by Chinese "quality" junk maker Jianghai.
Neighbour's Back-UPS ES had real nice symptoms because of those:
When on it was running quite hot... easily felt even through that heat insulating plastic casing.
And if it cooled down then starting it was like listening some time bomb:
After power on's battery test it would keep rapidly switching between AC and battery with nice clicking of relays.
With speed of that slowing until after warming of minute or two it would accept to work on AC.
Checking inside it was running hot because it was apparently trying to charge battery quite often.
After recapping also that hot running disappeared.
Back-UPS ES should really have caps changed to very high quality ones or then swapped periodically like engine oil in cars because of no airflow.
may I ask how much is your average monthly electric bill? you seem to consume quite a bit of electricity from your mains.
I don't use much power at all, because I'm a huge efficiency nut. The power bill for this house is usually pretty big (100-300 €), however, since we have electric heating and ridiculously poor insulation (if you park a car beside the house and it's slightly frosty outside, the side facing the house will thaw from the irradiated heat).
My workshop uses between 100 and 200 W usually, and next to nothing when I'm not there and my computer is off. The amount of time that more than 250 W is used by me, is easily less than 10 % of the time on a monthly basis. The home server, including the modem, UPS, and WLAN AP, use 65 W on average, 24/7. Assuming 16 day-hours of 200 W usage in the workshop, and 65 W 24/7 by the server, the monthly cost (at 13 c/kWh) for my workshop and server, is 18,56 €. So, in rough terms, my electronics hobby related stuff costs "about twenty bucks".
FFcossag Well, I still believe you should look around for good -- inexpensive -- deals on solar panels and hook up numerous panels. The most expensive part of an off-grid solar install is the batteries and you have obtain so many batteries already. More than one person -- or even a household -- would reasonably need. I strongly urge you to find deals -- like you have with batteries -- on PV panels and install a massive solar panel array to fully utilize all your batteries. I have to say I'm quite envious of all the batteries you have and the large piece of land you see to have.
I'm in Silicon Valley in California and land is extremely expensive here. We have tiny little lots -- in comparison to your lot -- for our homes here. But I do admit our weather here is more conducive for solar energy production. :-)
lanceguilin Your tiny lot probably gets as much sunlight as our larger one.
I'm well aware of my silly battery situation, but you simply don't come across "deals" on solar panels here, since almost no one does it. I am planning on expanding the system to maximise the utility of the Morningstar controller at some stage, but that's a 3000 Euro investment, and I simply do not have such money available to throw into solar, right now.
Hardcore electrician porn! Great Job!
You shouldnt be using lead acid car batteries inside the room. Its gas going out the batteries.
Only agm selead batteries can work safe.
This is basically a myth these days, unless you're severely overcharging your batteries.
I have this exact same SUA1500 Smart UPS model. I want to replace the existing 24V internal fan whose bearings have died. What is the safest way to discharge the internal capacitors after turning off, unplugging from mains and unplugging the batteries? Would pressing the "0" button for 10 seconds do the trick?
I recently purchased one of those UPSes, and after replacing the 22uf capacitors it makes a grunting noise (don't know if it comes from the transformer or maybe a bad relay), buzzer died (replacement is silent as well), and the fan does not work (tried known good from another unit, no spin, the original fan is just dead), and to top it off, it deems every battery pack as faulty (both known bad and known good). Do you think there is anything more I can do to fix it, or might it be a good time to cut my losses and send it off to the scrapyard? edit: spelling
I have several APC UPSs (more than 10 years old) that need repair, so I bought a bag of 22 uf caps from Amazon. If that does not fix them, I will scrap them. Here are some UA-cam videos that show other things that can go wrong with a UPS:
Bad relays: ua-cam.com/video/JBXUvqku6XM/v-deo.html
Bad caps and relay: ua-cam.com/video/lpS8607tarc/v-deo.html
Bad FETs and ICs: ua-cam.com/video/HATu1YweIoY/v-deo.html