Angling Technics....not so Standard Bait Boat
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- This is a video of a rebuild I helped a mate with on his Angling Technics Standard Bait Boat. We chucked out the old Angling Technics gear from it, rewired it with a new speed controller, 40mhz radio gear, a couple of new servos, a few more lights and built a custom battery compartment to replace the sealed lead acid battery with a couple of Nimh's. The battery compartment can now be opened to replace the batteries when dead. It's also been finished off in matt Land Rover green. As the two batteries are lighter than the sealed lead acid battery and have a higher voltage (14.4v), it goes a lot better. The hopper door mechanism has also been replaced with a couple of servos, which makes the doors a lot more responsive
Hi, I've just got one of these old boats and am going to try to update it similar to yours. Are the servos just standard types? And which esc did you use?
cheers
Steve
Hi Dave ,did you have to remove the box that is glued to the slope on the inside of the boat?I' m doing a battery mod and I would like to move it away from the centre of the boat so that I could get access inside.If you did I would really appreciate any advice in moving this without damaging it,Many Thanks John
Thanks for replying mate ,that’s a great idea and it’s really made me think how I could lower them and put my mind at rest, cheers
Hi.mate thinking of doing mine how did you get the boat to reverse did you use all 3 bilge pumps cheers chris
Hi Dave,do you think I would be able to just use the in series NIMH batteries instead of the lead acid ones and leave the old electrics as is?What was the length of time you had before you had to change the batteries?Cheers
John Holmes Hi mate, you could do although I have no idea whether that might do some damage to the old electrics considering the NIMH’s in series would be a higher voltage. The pumps in your boat would be ok, I have the same pumps in my boat and run that on 4s lipos (16.8 volts at full charge) but have no idea how the AT electronics would deal with the higher voltage. If you wanted to change the batteries, I’d suggest 2 x 3s Lipos in parallel. They’d be 12.6 volts at full charge, be a lot lighter than the SLA and also pack more punch. I.e you could draw a lot more current from them, not that your boat would draw more than 10amps at full whack but the batteries would be a lot nearer voltage to the SLA.
Hi Dave,I was thinking of using the 2 x 3s lipo batteries as you advised.My only worry is the weight,as I was thinking of using 5500 mah.Could you tell me what the weight of the the batteries you used as a guide line for me to start off with,Many Thanks ,John
Hi John, the two packs were roughly 500 grms each so about a Kilo in weight total. If you're worried about the weight, why not lower the custom battery compartment a bit to bring the centre of gravity down. Build a similar compartment to how I did it but use a dremel to cut the part of boat that the batteries sit on in my example, so that you can build a compartment that goes inside the boat. This will enable you to get the batteries nearer to where the original SLA battery was and bring the centre of gravity down.
did going for 14.4v make much difference to the speed of the boat?
+mcberniexxx Yeah, it did. The NiMH batteries were higher in voltage and added extra punch to the pumps. Worth doing!
Absolute class.........If I make a compartment like you did, what battery do i need to get that i can just plug in, and also keep a couple already charged up, instead of having that old lump in there? Thanks
+Ross Charters, Cheers Ross!! This boat was using 2 NIMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries in series, so running about 14.4v. NIMH are old hat batteries now though. A boat I built uses the same pumps the standard bait boat uses and I run this on '4S Lipos', so about 16.4v at full charge. Or just get some '3S Lipos' if you want to run it at 12v like it does now (they'll be about 12.6v at full charge)
Thanks for the speedy reply! I just looked on eBay and I haven't a clue which ones to get.....do you have a link? Do I need 2 batteries to run it? I presume if I need to get a standard plug connector? Sorry to sound like a daft idiot, I have no idea about this kind of thing :)
Thanks for replying mate,it’s being able to change the batteries easily like you can with yours that is so appealing.Would I need to just connect the batteries into the existing wiring instead of the lead acid one but make a compartment like yours to change them easily,also not having the heavier battery does it upset the balance of the boat,thanks for your advice it’s much appreciated
John Holmes No problem mate, yep, just connect the new batteries up to the power cables in the boat and you should be done. I even think AT have wired it with red for positive and black for negative so you can’t go wrong. Having the batteries up higher in the boat does slightly off set the balance (as you can see from the video) but not enough that it’ll capsize. Depending on what size/capacity batteries you get, they’ll probably be even lighter than the NIMH too. Also, being able to move the batteries about a bit in the new compartment, it won’t take long until you find a sweet spot and then just either mark it or add some Velcro in so they’re always in the right spot each time.
Hi mate
Just brought myself this boat looking to do what u have done
What do I need ?
Looked at ur site for a diagram but couldn't find one any help would really appreciate it 👍👍
Cheers Dave.
Didnt mix up the wires, and the battery still shows 12.8 v.
All was fine when I held the wires in place and it ran through start up procedure as normal.
It's when I soldered the wires to the battery terminals, that's when the black wire got really hot -now nothing works.
In regards to the new running gear, did you replace the AT with a std 2ch receiver? is the small black box (glued to battery) the ESC? and what operates your new servos- hopper doors?
Cheers, Dave
Would love to see this in more detail.as having trouble with wiring and like to charge wiring
Can you help
excellent work bud gonna sort mine out now it goes round in circles at mo lol thanks for sharing this info
Thanks for the reply and info Dave
Looks like I will be converting to non AT gear, at least then if anything goes wrong in future the parts will be easier and cheaper to replace.
Cheers, Dave
Hi Dave, great build and speed too, what pumps did you use please? looking to upgrade my own boat from props to pumps or jets, cheers Ian
+Ian whiteley thanks Ian. The pumps Angling Technics use are the Rule 1100gph pumps but there are cheaper alternatives on eBay.
@@DaveMattock can you recommend one for me? i would like to change them in my AT STD boat. thanks
Please could you tell me what components are in the box at 0:17 I can see the esc (electronize) what is on the left is that the 2 way switch? what one is it? also is the rx in this box aswell, at 0:15 is that a fuse holder between the yellow hose and Perspex box? My AT standard is the very first batch and it has one servo running both flaps, it has the rx in box next to servo, and another box stuck ontop of reverse pump, I think this is the esc, one of the forward pumps isn't working but works when wired direct so I think the esc is faulty, everything else works. AT wont send a new one, they want me to send them the boat, but I want to be able to service and replace all myself, I split it years ago, and put a permanent silicone gasket in one half, and secured with nuts /bolts so its easy access, I also made a Perspex box for the battery for quick change overs. For anyone that needs to change battery in these, Acetone melts the resin, but be careful because it will also eat through the plastic if left to soak, use a stiff brush and the resin melts, wipe it off in rag and apply clean acetone until its gone. I want to get it working again, its been in my garage for 15 yrs
Hi Jimmy, in the box is the Electronize ESC, the Electronize 2 way switcher and the 40Mhz receiver. The Electronize 2 way switcher is a 2 Channel Type (48B-2W), have you been on their website? I didn't install any fuses in it, they're just electrical connectors. As per the video, I didn't keep any of the AT gear in it because I didn't understand what each bit did. I just rewired it myself. The switcher, servo and ESC are all wired to the receiver as per any other RC equipment. All you need to do is wire these up and work out how to run the pumps from the ESC and it should work.
Dave Mattock Great , Thanks very much, yes I have been to their site, does the reverse pump go through the ESC too? ive just got to decide what tx / rx to get now, was thinking of futaba 4yf or spectrum dx4e, or I might get 40mhz (cheaper) , do you know which have the best range? Ive been trawling the rc forums and got a good idea how it all works now, then I might look at the FPV like you've done on yours!
Thanks for your help Dave, much appreciated
Jimmy W Hi Jimmy, no problem, if I was going to get any of those I'd go for the spectrum dx4e, bulletproof signal, it'll go out of sight before it goes out of range. Yeah, the left and right pumps will be your forward drive through the ESC and the middle pump will be your reverse. Again, this will be wired through the ESC.
Hi Dave, thanks for posting. Great mod, really impressed with that! I need to replace the gear in mine too, id like to keep the servo for flaps is this possible ? so I need,
rc brushed speed controller- are these all same?
twin rc switch, which one did you use, how was this wired ?
Do you need 1 or 2 channels for flaps, 1 channel for forward pumps and 1 channel for reverse pump, does the rc switch need a channel?.
4 channel radio gear.
Ive never messed around with rc , but looking forward to having a go, I don't like not being able to fix something.
Thanks
Hi Jimmy, thanks! Firstly, the Standard AT Boat doesn't use servos. It uses piano wire that heats up and retracts to open the hopper doors, this is why I installed servos in my mates boat as I didn't know how to keep this working when I rewired his. I thought installing servos would be easier. You'll need a brushed ESC that can handle the voltage you will be using to power the boat. i.e. if you're using the lead acid battery, then you'll need a 12v ESC. I used an Electronize rc switch to steer the boat. This is a 2 relay switch which allows power to each of the rear pumps. When you push left on the transmitter, the RC switch turns off the power to the left pump, which steers the boat left and vice versa.
Dave Mattock Thanks for reply dave!,
I looked at your other vids with your king of the bait boats, awesome work! love it.
Do you recommend a 4 channel transmitter and receiver or 5, I suppose I should just buy the bits and try it out until I get it working the way I want, did you wire the 2 servos on same channel, id like to open each side independently.
Is this correct, the power goes from battery to receiver, then to ESC to forward pumps on one channel, where does the rc switch go? reverse pump on one channel, im confusing myself now :\
Hi, i'm not sure they have fuses in them. We ripped the gubbins out of my mates one and I had a good look at everything but couldn't see a fuse in his. Does your battery have power? You didn't happen to cross the terminals of the battery over with the positive & negative wires did you? That's my only thought. Either that or the switch has gone maybe? I just used one RC brushed speed controller and a twin RC switch to switch off either the left or right pump for steering.
have you or are you able to write a guide out to doing this ? and what did you use to make the part that housed the new batteries ?
cheers, ryan
Hi Ryan, the battery compartment is made from 2mm Perspex. I just got a piece of card to make a template that would fit the area where I wanted the batteries to go and used this template to mark out where to cut the Perspex. I just then made a lid to fit on top of it. I am looking to draw up some wiring diagrams of all the boats I've made, which will shortly be posted on my Wordpress site. baitboatbuilders.wordpress.com/
Ahh Ok and how was the perspex compartment attached to the boat? did you simply just glue it in place?
Any chance of a 'shopping list' style list of parts needed to buy. I look forward to seeing more, top work fella.
Sounds like something got shorted out if you had wires getting hot. Yeah, the ESC and 27Mhz receiver are in the black box near the battery. I had no idea how it was all wired up so just kept the pumps, got rid of the AT gear and wired it up myself. I installed a 4 channel 40Mhz radio in my mates one but have a look on ebay for a Spektrum DX4e, they're under 40 quid and it'll be 2.4Ghz. You'll need a 4 channel 2.4Ghz receiver also. They range from £8 to £40. The servos run off the receiver.
hi what size speed controllers did you use
Hi, I have a AT STD bait boat and want to upgrade as others. Just fitted new battery and all was fine until I soldered new battery in.......now all is dead. battery, square fuse and conatcts seem fine but cant view sealed units
Any ideas?
Looking at changing electrics as you have, what parts do I require, can you provide a spec list please, cheers, Dave
Hi mate just wondered if u managed to do a diagram for the standard baitboat modified I've been looking bk here last few months hoping you would get it on many thanks n nice job want to convert mine now !!
Nick Dale hello mate, unfortunately, there's a part I used to wire this up, which has been discontinued. It's the part that controls the power to each of the rear pumps which is used to steer the boat. I've had other people ask the same question but I cannot find a part which would do this. I used a radio controlled relay to switch the power off to each of the rear pumps which made it turn. The guy who made them has stopped trading so I can't tell you exactly what you'd need unfortunately, everything else is relatively simple. You just need an esc to go forwards and backwards, a couple of servos to open the doors and a transmitter and receiver to control the boat.
Dunno if you are in uk but do u think maplins would do a relay would u kn
Hi Dave
I was hoping you could advise or help please
I have a problem with my bait boat the reverse pump has seized
I have separated the boat hulls and exposed the pumps I have now found the pumps have be resin or glue in with a grey substance
Do you know how to remove the glue or how to remove the pump
I have read your notes and noticed the pumps on eBay 1100 Gph
So I'm nearly there hope you can help
Ian
Ian Clarke Hi Ian, I know the grey stuff you’re talking about and I had a go at removing it with some paint thinners (the battery is also stuck down with it) but it was taking ages so we gave up and cut the battery out in the end. I tried various different thinners and the Hammerite Paint thinners worked the best so could try that and leave it to soak over night maybe.
Once you’ve removed the grey stuff, there should be a plastic filter underneath the pump with Phillips screws holding it on, unscrew those and the pump will be held in place with 4 grub screws through the bottom of the pump and some nyloc nuts that’ll be 5.5mm. They’re well built so expect a lot of faffing getting it out. Once you replace it, just reverse the way you took the old one out but replace the ‘grey stuff’ with silicone.
Pucker job lads, got one myself to do. I'm guessing that's 5 channels?
I have a standard bait boat that has stopped steering, any clues what the problem is. Angling technics could fix it for a huge fee. I have the boat split in half.
Hi Steve, it could be one of many factors, one of the pumps has stopped working? or the receiver in the boat has stopped working? or the speed controller in the boat has stopped working? Unfortunately, as the AT wiring is completely sealed, I have no idea what could be the exact cause of it. You can either send it back to AT or rewire it yourself, either way, it's going to cost you. If you rewire it, you'll need a new electronic speed controller (ESC), new receiver, something to operate the hopper doors, replace whatever it is that's not working currently in your boat (Pump, Receiver, ESC) etc.
Dave Mattock both pumps are running as it goes forward, it just cuts out whenever you engage steering in forward and I haven't a clue where the receiver is or the speed controller, if I knew where they were i have plenty of spares
That's what I mean, AT seal everything up but if both pumps are running sounds like it's the circuit that controls the steering, if it's any help, it's the black box that's sitting behind the battery at the stern of the boat (near where the handle joins the hull). I only know this as I took it apart (out of curiosity) when I rebuilt my mates one. The receiver is in there too but to get to them, you have to completely dismantle the box they're in and you won't be able to reuse it....i.e. you'll be going down the rewire it yourself option which means completely removing all of the angling technics radio gear/wiring and starting from scratch.
Dave Mattock do the pumps plug into a normal receiver if so I can give it a go, thank you for your help
The pumps would need to be wired to an electronic speed controller (ESC), which would be controlled via the receiver. You can't 'plug' the pumps into a normal receiver as this won't power them.
Hi like your conversion I would like to change my standard boat to digital do you have wiring diagram I know these boats quite well and have done some work on them but dont know how to change from normal 27mhz to digital as they dont use normal receivers ?
cheers steve
Has It sunk yet as expected if you corner to the heavy side after dropping one side it’s gone I’d say…
Hi could u give me a link of a relay switch that would be suitable as I can't find anywhere and electronize are not doing them at moment
+edward darby, here's one on eBay:
www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/121871764938
Thanks very much
Do u have a diagram of how u wired it up ? The only bit I'm really stuck on is wiring the switch to pumps I take it the esc is wired to the pumps as well or is the esc to the switch then the pumps ?
+edward darby Your pumps will be wired to the ESC but you use the relay switch inline between these two to turn the power off going to the pumps to steer the boat. Relays can be either normally open or electronically closed. Normally open (which is how you should have the circuit wired up so your boat goes in a straight line) means that current can pass through it. Once a current is supplied to one of the relays, it closes the circuit to whichever pump you don't want to run, so no power will reach the pump on either the left hand or right hand side. you will need two relays, one for each pump and the relay switch I sent you a link for has two....so just one relay switch to be ordered. I don't have a wiring diagram unfortunately.
What esc would u use for The 12v battery ?
+edward Darby, I would use this one if its still on eBay: www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/111790441145
Just wondering how easy if this boat to get into as wanna put a more powerful battery in mine
They're stuck together with silicone so you can either cut it away with a knife or get some silicone remover that will dissolve it and you peel it off. The hard bit is getting the old lead acid battery out as they're stuck to hull. We had to cut my mates out with a hacksaw blade.
Dave cheers dude got it apart it dated 2005 think it definitely needs a new battery lol
Could do with different radio gear too
Love the servo idea
I used a dremmel, cut the top of the battery off first, worked my way around and down the battery, then pulling the plates out with pliers, but the battery was completely dry inside, old, over charged...
I left the bottom layer of plastic of the battery still attached to the hull..
Hi Dave great video and have to say your bait boat you made from scratch is amazing your a very clever guy. Just one question I understand how to get it to switch steering left and right but how can it be reversed all using the same esc.I take it it's because you had the special one that can't be purchased now.
Hi Danny, thanks very much!! Any brushed ESC should do it. The switch is what I couldn't get hold of anymore, I've found another one though, see link below. The one ESC powers all three pumps in the Standard Bait Boat. For going forward, the two rear facing pumps are connected to one of the leads on the ESC and for reverse connect the forward facing pump to the other lead. All the pumps have a permanent live and the negative leads are connected to the ESC. So the negative leads to the two rear facing pumps would be connected to one of the leads from the ESC (usually blue and yellow in colour on the ESC) and the one negative lead for the forward facing pump would be connected to the other lead from the ESC. The switch used for steering is used to cut the power to each of the rear facing pumps. When going forward, both pumps have power. To go left, the power to the left pump was disconnected and vice versa for going right. Here's the switch I've found that'll do the job: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Radio-Control-2-way-Relay-Switch-RC-R-C-Tank-Boat-Tug/222926925165?hash=item33e77aed6d:g:RXcAAOSwol5YvTFV
Dave Mattock wow that's great thankyou for getting back to me so quickly. I will order the switch now and give it a go. Thanks once again 👍👍
@@DaveMattock that link has stopped working what was the switch again you used or what it is called so i can find one for the upgrades many thanks Adam
Hi mate, top job with the boat, is there any chance you could send me a wiring diagram including names of components used. I'm in the process of rewiring the same boat and as your probably aware the original wiring is just pants
Angling technics need to update there echo finder display, it hasn't changed since day one. When you compare it to toslon or raymarine, angling technics echo sounder doesn't come close, but the boats themselves are class
Any links to esc's for the motors please
+Charles White they don't make the ESCs I used in this build anymore but this one would be good: www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/111790441145 I only used one esc. there are three pumps, two for forwards and one for reverse so the one esc does the forwards and reverse movement and then I used an RC relay switch to switch the power off from one of the rear pumps when steering. I.e. If I wanted it to go left, I'd use the relay to only provide power to the right rear pump steering it left and vice versa.
It needs to be deeper in the water. It's sucking in too much air - you can see this in the outputs. You also need to keep the weight lower otherwise a large dump of bait on one side is likely to tip the boat very badly.
Hi, unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram, I just did it in my head. They do use normal receivers, it's sealed in the little black box behind where the standard lead acid batter is installed in the boat. I just got rid of all of the Angling Technics gear and wiring and installed my own speed controller and rewired it.
Dave Mattock I've picked up an old standard and wanting to do exactly the same but everything is bonded, how did you go about removing everything without cracking the boat?
Nah, it works fine, if you watch the rest of the video, the batteries get repositioned and it works just like the standard boat, but faster.
How did u wire in the reverse
You have a permanent live to all 3 pumps, wire the two rear pump's negative wires to one of the wires on the speed controller and the front pump's negative wire to the other wire on the speed controller.
Permanent lives to battery ?
Yeah, well after you've installed a switch to turn it off and on. The speed controllers have two wires coming off them for the motor(s). One will be for the forward drive and the other for the reverse. Wire the two rear pumps to one of the wires from the speed controller and the other pump to the other remaining wire from the speed controller. You should then be able to control all three pumps with one speed controller.
+edward darby when I say wire the pumps to the wires on the speed controller, I mean the negative wires from the pumps, the positive wires will be wired directly to the live wire coming from your switch for the boat.
Your a star thanks
maplins electrics if I can source one
Could you possibly do diagram with parts I can possibly find a relay even if it's just a quick drawing u could email to me thanks again for your help
Thanks Dave
I'll give it a go
It's no so easy is it lol
Ian
1.5kgs is a ridiculous amount of bait to be putting out in one heap, that's on top!! I'd area bait if I was putting that much bait in one go.
really nice
can you do it on my boat :)
Put 1.5kg in one hopper and see how badly it tips.
Even half a kilo would turn it over.