“Glued On” should be hyphenated in your video title. With the way you have the title written now, you are talking about something called “on mirrors” and describing them as glued.
This video helped me finally get my mirror off my bathroom wall. Using your shimmy idea worked far better than numerous other videos I seen that recommended using a heat gun. I did make sure that I thoroughly taped the mirror. This ensured holding the mirror together if anything went wrong. I highly recommend anyone who has never done this before to tape prior to removal.
Having removed hundreds of mirrors in similar fashion, the rule of thumb is... If you want to re-use the mirror it WILL break, if not it will come off cleanly and in one piece.
@@vidpie Have never encountered one like that! I would spread a large drop cloth and get some help to support the mirror as you try to take it down. Eye protection and gloves are MANDATORY! Long sleeved shirts and maybe even heavy jackets, since it's on an angle. Heavy putty knives to slip behind and GENTLY pry the mirror loose. 4" and bigger help to spread the pressure on the mirror. Steady even pressure is the key... Don't be in a hurry. Slip 2x4 blocks, or what ever you can get behind it, to help reach deeper behind the mirror to pry up if you need to. You'll eventually get to where you can grab the edge of the mirror and pry up. That's when you know you've got it pretty close to coming off. If it breaks, it breaks. Start prying up again. Good luck!!
@@matthewwarfield4302 Thanks for the detailed response. I think this job may be too much for me given my inexperience and gravity. The mirror is 4ft wide x 5 ft long. There are a couple of clips on each vertical side that are likely driven into the rafters. They are not identical so one type might have been added later. The bottom horizontal edge abuts a large mirror on the wall behind the vanity. The other edge of the vertical mirror rests on the vanity backsplash.
@@vidpie I would cover them both with a sheet and get the hammer out. You'll be surprised at how hard you have to hit it to break it. Clean up the mess and pry off any stuck to the wall pieces. Good luck!
As another old pro I have to recommend always keeping safety goggles (the bigger plastic ones) on as I noticed you didn't have any eye protection after you removed them when you was carrying them off. Love all the great tips, thanks.
When possible, I use picture hanging wire to remove mirrors secured with mastic. Thread the wire behind the mirror, then use a sawing motion to cleanly cut through the mastic/tape. This technique sometimes isn't possible due to clearance, but when it is, it works like a charm. I've never had a break. Like you, I also donate furnishings and fixtures that are in good condition after removal to Habitat for Humanity ReStore!
I'm glad to hear this testimony from a reliable source John... I've heard about using the wire method but just can't envision a smooth wire slicing through those big globs of time-hardened mastic. With your anecdote though I'll keep it in my 'bag-o-tricks' for the future! Thanks... Best, Matt
This is another great illustration that faster is not always better. Those who think they save time by bashing the mirror into tiny pieces will spend more time cleaning up said tiny pieces than they saved. Gotta love the thoughtful, methodical approach.
Thanks for the tips. You inspired me to cover the entire panel with tape first, it allowed some more brute force with 0 mess. I bought a 1200mm long piece of 40mm galvanised flat bar, smacked it behind the glass, then moved it up and down to separate the silicon and tape from the wall. It took around 5 minutes to remove each mirror. The dream
Great way to extrapolate the lesson shown in this video to get the job done. I like the idea of using a piece of flat stock to 'cut' the tape and adhesive... I think other viewers will find that adaptation useful, providing there's enough room on one side of the mirror to shove it behind. Thanks for adding value to this NLC video!
I just removed a similar sized mirror yesterday. I put tape on it in various directions, covered the mirror entirely with clear shield, placed a tarp on the vanity and floor, then hit the mirror with a hammer several times. I was able to pull the pieces (fairly large) off quite easily. Before I started, I did place the shims (about 6) along the top and drove each one in until it stopped. Clean up was a breeze.
Matt, these tips are absolutely golden. These are the kinds of work methods the separate the good contractors from the best. I wish you lived closer to me. I’d gladly pay for you to some work for me like my next task... replacing a broken 5’ X 8 ‘ window on the back of my house. Not too bad but I have full shutters inside (that have to be removed) and brick outside (that was installed after the window). Thanks for posting.
I'll let you know when I take my dog-and-pony show on the road Dwight... I'll plan a stop in your fair city along the way! 😁😎 Non-typical non-routine window replacements are a bit of a specialty service I offer. Clients appreciate it when requirements and conditions require more planning and outside the box thinking than common new window upgrade jobs. Best, Matt
Glad to hear it Michael.. welcome to Next Level Carpentry! Feel free to comment on other videos you find helpful... you sound like my prime demographic so I'm interested in what resonates and what is irrelevant. Best, Matt
Thanks for the awesome video. My wife and I removed a large mirror using the techniques we learned from your video. Worked like a charm. Thank you for taking the time to make and post the video.
Nicely done! Recently used shims to remove an under mount sink. It was stainless steel with silicone caulk as an adhesive to marble top. It worked great! David
Dang, Boy! I needed that video a couple of years ago. Being a total novice DIY homeowner, I made every possible mistake taking done a big mirror. Lucky I didn't sever an artery. Now I know a number of techniques to prevent disaster due to the Master. Thanks!
Stick on carpet protector stuck to the mirror will keep the mirror help keep the mirror together if it breaks as it covers the whole mirror. Thanks again
Excellent video and advice. We used shims and glass lifting suction cups as you suggest and were able to remove a 4'x6' bathroom mirror without breaking it. There aren't even any cracks! Thanks so much for posting this video.
When you have money you can change any bathroom no matter what the cost. Someone probably bought the house and did not like the previous owner's taste maybe.
Great stuff, as always! "Electricianizing"....now I have another thing to call my trade =) We did a minor update on our hall bath several years back. Basically a taller vanity with a granite top. There was a mirror mounted pretty much identical to the way yours were, but larger - it's about 40" tall, but 8' wide. Goes from the end wall of the sink all the way to the tile for the shower. I had no idea how to remove this and really wanted to save it if possible, but figured that was very unlikely, as even pro glaziers say "good luck". My granite guy (who is awesome) had just done my kitchen and was going to do a cheap granite top on my craigslist vanity. I mentioned the mirror and he said no problem very confidently. I was doubtful he would be successful, but his confidence was unwavering. So bathroom remodel day comes. Josue (my granite guy) breaks out 2 of those suction cup handles - pro ones though, and puts them on the mirror roughly in thirds. I'm like are you sure; what do you need me to do? he said "nothing, I got it". so he just grabs both handles and starts pulling and jiggling the handles in and out and in about 10 seconds he has the mirror off without a scratch on it. It was held on with huge blobs of black mastic-looking adhesive. He put the mirror in the other room. We set the new vanity. He revised the floor tile a little bit, and cut and installed the new top and splash, complete with a beautiful hand -cut hole for the sink. He then set the mirror with new adhesive and it was done. Looks great and took like 1-1/2 to 2 hours. I had all the prep work done before we started - vanity and sink removed, light fixture removed and box relocated, new vanity drilled for plumbing, etc...Just another technique to throw in the toolbox of ideas...I do like the shim idea, though ;-)
Great method, Matt. Better and safer than one I have used extensively. In another lifetime, I removed thousands of square feet of mirror as we toured the country remodeling a mall store chain as they transitioned from one architectural model to another. Each store had a wall of full length mirrors, each about 3' wide x 7' tall, and very well adhered with the original blobs of mirror mastic applied years before. The stores also had chrome rolling fixtures, which happened to include removable flat hanging bars, about three foot long with sectional size, 1/4" x 1". In the heat of battle on one of the first jobs, I discovered that I could slide one of these thin bars behind the mirror with its 1" flat side against the wall and use it extremely gingerly as you would a crow bar to gradually work the mirror off the wall. Because these bars were not rigid enough to keep from bending, their flexibility made it possible to gradually work a mirror off the wall without breaking it. I don't recommend this method without reservation to others, as it requires practice and a very sensitive touch to avoid causing a sudden crack, which can be dangerous. But back in the day, I got proficient enough through all the repetitions to remove enough mirror to equip two dance studios and one martial arts dojo wall to wall after I started hauling the undamaged pieces back home to make a little bonus cash.
Great anecdote 'from the trenches' Michael! Glad to hear you're able to repurpose them because it always pains me to toss a perfectly good mirror for the fact it has glue on the back and it's a custom size... Best, Matt
Glazier here that's put in hundreds of mirrors like this. Really well done, great method, I'll definitely be using this method in the future. Your videos are always great!
I don’t know why you said you did it by yourself; there were always two and I saw as many four workers in there at one point. Matt, Chip, Chap, and Chump. Thanks for the great lesson Matt!
Had a friend of mine almost loose an arm when the mirror shattered and sliced thru his forearm. The bleeding was extensive. Put sticky carpet protector on the mirror face before you remove it or invest in Kevlar shirt/sleeves so we can watch the rest of your vids with you having both arms.
Having seen you remove a sheetrock wall with no mess on a previous video, as soon as I saw the title, I knew you were again going to deliver a new method I would want to learn! Kudos!
HGTV would have used the hammer...and then spent 3 hours off camera cleaning up the shards. Good work Matt. I've had good luck removing mirrors that way too.
I'm glad that no shims were harmed in the making of this video. I was quite worried that they may have splintered or split. I've been hoping that you would show a video removing a wall mirror ever since your closet makeover when you said that you wished you had filmed it. I also have three that I want to remove, and if possible, have them cut down and put into a frame for reuse.
It's probably got something to do with the binge watching/commenting you're doing here. They seem to recognize it and I certainly appreciate it!! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm gaining on ya! And learning some good things for the remodel and repairs I am doing. The number of videos in the channel also seems to have something to do with it.
Great job! By your video I can see this job may be too challenging for a ONE “OLDER” person job. For that I am grateful! I like doing DYI’s but I won’t be tackling this one by myself.
Good work 👍 I contracted with a glass company to remove wall to wall mirrors, that went to the ceiling. Flashback to the 70s. They used a lot more tape and brute force pulling on the vacuum suction cups, to detach the mirrors from the walls. Copious amounts of broken mirror had to be cleaned up when it was over.
Outstanding presentation. Your ability to do the work and also narrate the video is commendable. Old video but thanks for the lesson on removing a mirror!
I was extremely happy to find this video, my house has a few of those mirrors and I want to fancy them up. But after watching the video I'm just going to dress them up with door casings and call it a day. Great information though, thanks!
Matt, awesome level of work, love you repurpose the old hardware and cabinets with habitat for humanity. Another level of additional work on your side benefiting others is a mark of a good man. Thank you for the video. Never thought about using shims, excellent. Hooked on your channel. Thank you for great 👍 inspiration in solving problems.
Very ingenious! I use lots of Duct tape, Gloves, and a long sleeve Shirt, and where possible a Hand Saw slipped behind to help cut the Glue. Getting up above the Mirror the way you did is a lot safer incase the Shards fall.
Matt, your videos are amazing now compared to your first efforts! Thanks for all your tips and tricks, I have learned a lot from your videos. Keep up the good work!
Hey Chris; thanks for noticing and commenting on video quality here. Learning video production skills (such as they are) has been one of the toughest challenges I've taken on in recent years. It can still be frustrating but it's encouraging to know at least a little progress is visible! From one Jackson to another: Best, Matt
Having watch more than a few of your videos it hit me that if you had an extra long or tall mirror you could take one of your super shims cut it into sections that would fit between the top of the mirror in the ceiling and gradually send the shims down stacking the sections on top of each other to eventually get the mirror completely loose with that cream and putting your hands behind it. Great video always learn some something when I watch your videos. My take away today was too soon old too late smart. That might make an amazing T-shirt as well. As always thank you man wish you the best.
This is a very helpful video! I own my own glass shop and in the past glued on mirrors were always taken down by breaking them up. I don't use a hammer though. I cut them up with my glass cutter and take them off in pieces. Next time I have a call for this I'll give your method a try. Thanks for the idea.
I did this about a year ago, when I went to change out a bathroom light fixture and found a splice just living in the wall, which led to finding 3 hidden j boxes behind the drywall, and redoing the bathroom's electrical. Fun times.
I've never seen the shims being used like this. I have always used wire to saw thru the adhesive. Then again, I have not come across a mirror hard up against a wall or cabinetry. This, I will try on my next reno. Thanks
You're welcome Tom. I'm sure there's a mirror 'out there' that won't come off with this method but its definitely what I'd use as a first attempt. BTW I figure that using the longest shims possible with similar taper would give you a better chance if your mirror doesn't seem to yield to removal like the ones in the video did. You probably noticed the photo at 2:35 which was the first mirror I did using shims. That thing was REALLY stuck with both mastic and strips of doublestick tape. Luckily I was able to slip shims in from all 4 sides because otherwise I don't think it would have come off without breaking... but longer shims might have made a difference. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I have used dental floss to remove emblems from car/motorcycle parts, I wonder is something like that would work if you had room the saw it back and forth behind the mirror? Might have to give it a try one day
Once upon a time I was a glazier, and my parents own a glass shop. We always used shims similar to what you did.......if just yanking on it with a suction cup didn’t work first. Starting at a corner, place an 8” suction cup and start yanking on it in a moderate fashion, if it doesn’t start to separate, then resort to shims.
Just for the sake of future mirror installations. It's recommended to apply the glue in vertical stripes not blobs. Adhesive should be applied thoroughly in the corners to prevent possible cracking. Remember not to push the mirror to hard when installing because it will be curved.
Not click bait. I'm glad you didn't use the sledge and make it a reality tv butchery. I was nervous about the second mirror. Could gently heating the mirror to soften the adhesive? Use hair dryer or torch at a distance?
Hey Matt great Video! I've recently found your channel. Really enjoy it and your humor cracks me up. I've learnt so much from your videos already. Thank you!
Welcome, Tom. Glad you discovered NLC and get a chuckle or two while learning. I question putting 'silly stuff' in the videos for fear it will cause viewers not to take me seriously so I'm glad to know it's not a detractor for you. Even if it negatively affects UA-cam view stats there's little chance I'll quit including 'humor'... I just can't seem to help myself when it comes to ad-lib silliness. 🤡🤡 Best, Matt
@@tomgilberg8038 not on Next Level Carpentry... unfortunately it's just not feasible. There's plenty of woodworking forums where you might find answers. For me, personally, I do a bit of consulting on an hourly basis but, for most projects, the cost would be impractical/prohibitive. I might consider adding an hour of consulting for Patreon Patrons at some level but haven't had the time/need to do so as yet. Best, Matt
Kathleen Basieiwcz One thing I’ve learned as a do it yourself home owner is always check UA-cam first! I can’t even calculate the $$$ I’ve saved over the years by learning from fellow UA-camrs...
Worked for a glass shop for nine years. If the mirror is attached with mastic (mirror adhesive), you can usually soften it up by gently heating with a heat gun. Just get it warm to the touch. If they used silicone or construction adhesive, it won't help. Always use mirror mastic to install. Liquid nails is the worst, can cause the mirror to break on the wall because it expands and contracts.
I used this method to remove a 4' x 4' mirror. I covered the mirror with contact paper from the dollar store. Put shims in place on side, hit briefly with hair drier. Gently tapped shims with hammer, went to do other chores. Heard some shims fall. Went back, put a few more over top of remaining shims. Heard s bunch of shims fall, went back to find mirror was attached only by the clips at the bottom. We still can't believe how easy this was!!!
You can hire a glass shop to remove them... gotta respect big pieces of glass, for sure! Much cheaper to pay a pro than make a trip to the ER... Best, Matt
Nice tips. If you ever have a really tight spot and can't get your hand behind the mirror, try sliding an air bag in there. A few pumps will inflate the air bag and help pop the mirror loose.
In addition to the shims and suction cups we use a couple of "air shims" or "winbag" ( same thing just different brand names) makes things so much easier
Excellent video demonstration and we were so impressed by the skill and discipline of this guy! Thank you for posting. A question - would it be useful to steam off the paint around the edges?
Not quite sure what you mean about steaming off the paint around the edges but Steam on painted sheetrock will effectively ruin the sheetrock... Best, Matt
I was guessing at the beginning of the video (before you showed the shims) that you would use a thin wire or twine to run behind the mirror to saw through the adhesivie. I'm suprised that the mirror could flex that much without breaking. Maybe the mirror backing helps to reinforce the glass? Another great video!
In this bathroom there was a lot of space above the mirror so you can make some custom long shingles at the same 1/4" per foot bevel, (ie 1/16" to 9/16" for a 2' shingle, or 1/16" to 13/16" for a 3' shingle). That reduces bending of the mirror and allows it to be pushed out from the middle as the shim is pushed down and not just at the top.
Those cabinets look like they were made by Riss Bros., who I used to work for in the 70's. Especially the corner cabinet, with the tambour door at the bottom. I installed many of them.
I cut the drywall about three inches beyond the mirror and lift the mirror still attached to the drywall out in one piece. You can save the mirror that way. Even a large piece of drywall will only have a dozen or so drywall screw affixing it to the studs, and they pull through under the weight of the mirror when it is encouraged to lean forward.
Very informative Matt. I have to admit, I had a slight case of puckeritus as you were working those mirrors off. I hate glass, to many bad experiences with it. Though, as usual, you make it seem easy. Oh, and you are correct about that wall paper. That might have looked good from the back of a galloping horse tho.
Interesting. Others have mentioned that method and, along with your comment, I look forward to comparing performance on future mirror removals... Best, Matt
I like that Idea. Some of these glues are very difficult to get a wire through as some are suggesting. I've had to remove up to 4x8 foot mirror and used shims and worked well. A cut badsaw blade would have helped out alot though!👍
I was given the tip to use a heat gun or a hair dryer to blow hot air behind the mirror via the space made using the shims. In theory this warms us the glue or silicone to help it break away from the drywall or plaster backing board. I also heated the mirror at about the depth of the shims thinking this warm surface would do the same for the glue material behind. Also when the shims seem to "hit" the glued spot, then I started a new shim about 2 inches away from this thinking that I would clear the glued spot.
This went pretty smooth, but some don't give up quite so easily. I used the shim method on a recent bathroom mirror removal and none of the glue separated or popped free like it did in this case. Every single daub of glue took the drywall paper with it, and it doesn't just pull it off in a nice circle. It comes off in big tears far larger than the glue area. Maybe the glue was older and harder. Either way, the shim method is still the way to go.
Awesome job! I've removed mirrors like this also, though those longer shims make it look easier! I use the Wood Powr-Grip suction cups but these look like they worked just fine! Awesome job on presentation, love watching your videos!
I'm wondering if you made flat shim extensions that were like open-ended crest wrenches on one side and you used them to drive the first shims further down. The extension shims could be used in series to drive each other and ultimate the first shim. could probably peel the glass complete away from the wall even if lots of adhesive was used.
Had a mirror bit bigger than that in the ensuite. Glued to the wall, no framing. I used my late dad's 60yr old, 30 inch long, hand saw. Slid it behind the mirror on 3 sides and sawed off the glue. No cracks, no breaks. But will definitely try the shims if doing the main bathroom.
Sawing in from the edges is a decent option but often mirror size and location prevents it... it is nice to have options though to be able to remove a mirror regardless of its location😁😎Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt, I was lucky... there were no cabinets either side and we have high ceilings. Will need shims for the main bathroom tho, so thank you for your excellent educational demo. 😅
@@jamishep make sure you're very careful with that big mirror as I could have had a very serious accident with the big one I removed that chipped when it fell onto the countertop. Even a slight chip in The Mirror's Edge can cause the crack to run leaving you standing in a pile of huge sharp mirror shards... I learned from comments from professional Glaziers who said I was extremely lucky not to end up with a trip to ER so I'm passing their admonition along to you so that your project is safe and successful. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for the tips Matt, I'll be careful. I also wear my kevlar-lined pants, shirt and gloves, remnants from my prison working days... 🙂
“Glued On” should be hyphenated in your video title. With the way you have the title written now, you are talking about something called “on mirrors” and describing them as glued.
Serious-ly?! Good-grief! 🙄🙄
Ok mom.
Next Level Carpentry you never know he may have been born yesterday.
@@kansascityshuffle8526 Only child of English professor parents maybe?
Next Level Carpentry yeah or some kind of former childhood prodigy.
I've never seen such a patient contractor - with the work AND the teaching. great video editing as well!
This video helped me finally get my mirror off my bathroom wall. Using your shimmy idea worked far better than numerous other videos I seen that recommended using a heat gun. I did make sure that I thoroughly taped the mirror. This ensured holding the mirror together if anything went wrong. I highly recommend anyone who has never done this before to tape prior to removal.
Having removed hundreds of mirrors in similar fashion, the rule of thumb is... If you want to re-use the mirror it WILL break, if not it will come off cleanly and in one piece.
I have a bathroom with a large mirror attached to a slanted ceiling. Any tips on removing a mirror so situated?
@@vidpie Have never encountered one like that!
I would spread a large drop cloth and get some help to support the mirror as you try to take it down.
Eye protection and gloves are MANDATORY! Long sleeved shirts and maybe even heavy jackets, since it's on an angle.
Heavy putty knives to slip behind and GENTLY pry the mirror loose. 4" and bigger help to spread the pressure on the mirror.
Steady even pressure is the key... Don't be in a hurry.
Slip 2x4 blocks, or what ever you can get behind it, to help reach deeper behind the mirror to pry up if you need to.
You'll eventually get to where you can grab the edge of the mirror and pry up. That's when you know you've got it pretty close to coming off.
If it breaks, it breaks. Start prying up again.
Good luck!!
@@matthewwarfield4302 Thanks for the detailed response. I think this job may be too much for me given my inexperience and gravity.
The mirror is 4ft wide x 5 ft long. There are a couple of clips on each vertical side that are likely driven into the rafters. They are not identical so one type might have been added later.
The bottom horizontal edge abuts a large mirror on the wall behind the vanity. The other edge of the vertical mirror rests on the vanity backsplash.
@@vidpie I would cover them both with a sheet and get the hammer out. You'll be surprised at how hard you have to hit it to break it. Clean up the mess and pry off any stuck to the wall pieces. Good luck!
@@matthewwarfield4302 Great advice. Thanks for the encouragement.
As another old pro I have to recommend always keeping safety goggles (the bigger plastic ones) on as I noticed you didn't have any eye protection after you removed them when you was carrying them off. Love all the great tips, thanks.
When possible, I use picture hanging wire to remove mirrors secured with mastic. Thread the wire behind the mirror, then use a sawing motion to cleanly cut through the mastic/tape. This technique sometimes isn't possible due to clearance, but when it is, it works like a charm. I've never had a break.
Like you, I also donate furnishings and fixtures that are in good condition after removal to Habitat for Humanity ReStore!
I'm glad to hear this testimony from a reliable source John... I've heard about using the wire method but just can't envision a smooth wire slicing through those big globs of time-hardened mastic. With your anecdote though I'll keep it in my 'bag-o-tricks' for the future! Thanks... Best, Matt
This is one of the most well thought out, comprehensive and brilliant home-improvement videos I've seen on UA-cam.
Thanks for sayin Doug... if you like this video I think you'll find more equally informative ones here at Next Level Carpentry 😁😎 Best, Matt
This is another great illustration that faster is not always better. Those who think they save time by bashing the mirror into tiny pieces will spend more time cleaning up said tiny pieces than they saved. Gotta love the thoughtful, methodical approach.
Thanks for the tips. You inspired me to cover the entire panel with tape first, it allowed some more brute force with 0 mess. I bought a 1200mm long piece of 40mm galvanised flat bar, smacked it behind the glass, then moved it up and down to separate the silicon and tape from the wall. It took around 5 minutes to remove each mirror. The dream
Great way to extrapolate the lesson shown in this video to get the job done. I like the idea of using a piece of flat stock to 'cut' the tape and adhesive... I think other viewers will find that adaptation useful, providing there's enough room on one side of the mirror to shove it behind. Thanks for adding value to this NLC video!
I just removed a similar sized mirror yesterday. I put tape on it in various directions, covered the mirror entirely with clear shield, placed a tarp on the vanity and floor, then hit the mirror with a hammer several times. I was able to pull the pieces (fairly large) off quite easily. Before I started, I did place the shims (about 6) along the top and drove each one in until it stopped. Clean up was a breeze.
Matt...
You're fast becoming my favorite UA-cam channel. Well done.
Nathan: i agree 👍
Awesome videos.
Matt, these tips are absolutely golden. These are the kinds of work methods the separate the good contractors from the best. I wish you lived closer to me. I’d gladly pay for you to some work for me like my next task... replacing a broken 5’ X 8 ‘ window on the back of my house. Not too bad but I have full shutters inside (that have to be removed) and brick outside (that was installed after the window). Thanks for posting.
I'll let you know when I take my dog-and-pony show on the road Dwight... I'll plan a stop in your fair city along the way! 😁😎 Non-typical non-routine window replacements are a bit of a specialty service I offer. Clients appreciate it when requirements and conditions require more planning and outside the box thinking than common new window upgrade jobs. Best, Matt
Just found your site and as a life-long amateur with a decent eye I am excited to find the kind of help you are providing. Thank you.
Glad to hear it Michael.. welcome to Next Level Carpentry! Feel free to comment on other videos you find helpful... you sound like my prime demographic so I'm interested in what resonates and what is irrelevant. Best, Matt
Thanks for the awesome video. My wife and I removed a large mirror using the techniques we learned from your video. Worked like a charm. Thank you for taking the time to make and post the video.
Years ago I removed about 35 4'X8' mirrors off a condo gym wall the same way. Great job as always.
Nicely done! Recently used shims to remove an under mount sink. It was stainless steel with silicone caulk as an adhesive to marble top. It worked great! David
Dang, Boy! I needed that video a couple of years ago. Being a total novice DIY homeowner, I made every possible mistake taking done a big mirror. Lucky I didn't sever an artery. Now I know a number of techniques to prevent disaster due to the Master. Thanks!
Stick on carpet protector stuck to the mirror will keep the mirror help keep the mirror together if it breaks as it covers the whole mirror.
Thanks again
Inexpensive, easy and effective... great tip Monte! Thanks for adding it here... Best, Matt
we used to do that with windows, just tape the whole thing up and wack it.
that stuff has a bazillion uses, I hear it works pretty good at protecting carpet too
Excellent video and advice. We used shims and glass lifting suction cups as you suggest and were able to remove a 4'x6' bathroom mirror without breaking it. There aren't even any cracks! Thanks so much for posting this video.
Nice tip. That looks like a pretty nice bathroom. I am surprised they are ripping it out and redoing it. Glad you recycle them.
When you have money you can change any bathroom no matter what the cost. Someone probably bought the house and did not like the previous owner's taste maybe.
Great stuff, as always!
"Electricianizing"....now I have another thing to call my trade =)
We did a minor update on our hall bath several years back. Basically a taller vanity with a granite top. There was a mirror mounted pretty much identical to the way yours were, but larger - it's about 40" tall, but 8' wide. Goes from the end wall of the sink all the way to the tile for the shower. I had no idea how to remove this and really wanted to save it if possible, but figured that was very unlikely, as even pro glaziers say "good luck". My granite guy (who is awesome) had just done my kitchen and was going to do a cheap granite top on my craigslist vanity. I mentioned the mirror and he said no problem very confidently. I was doubtful he would be successful, but his confidence was unwavering. So bathroom remodel day comes. Josue (my granite guy) breaks out 2 of those suction cup handles - pro ones though, and puts them on the mirror roughly in thirds. I'm like are you sure; what do you need me to do? he said "nothing, I got it". so he just grabs both handles and starts pulling and jiggling the handles in and out and in about 10 seconds he has the mirror off without a scratch on it. It was held on with huge blobs of black mastic-looking adhesive. He put the mirror in the other room. We set the new vanity. He revised the floor tile a little bit, and cut and installed the new top and splash, complete with a beautiful hand -cut hole for the sink. He then set the mirror with new adhesive and it was done. Looks great and took like 1-1/2 to 2 hours. I had all the prep work done before we started - vanity and sink removed, light fixture removed and box relocated, new vanity drilled for plumbing, etc...Just another technique to throw in the toolbox of ideas...I do like the shim idea, though ;-)
Great method, Matt. Better and safer than one I have used extensively. In another lifetime, I removed thousands of square feet of mirror as we toured the country remodeling a mall store chain as they transitioned from one architectural model to another. Each store had a wall of full length mirrors, each about 3' wide x 7' tall, and very well adhered with the original blobs of mirror mastic applied years before. The stores also had chrome rolling fixtures, which happened to include removable flat hanging bars, about three foot long with sectional size, 1/4" x 1". In the heat of battle on one of the first jobs, I discovered that I could slide one of these thin bars behind the mirror with its 1" flat side against the wall and use it extremely gingerly as you would a crow bar to gradually work the mirror off the wall. Because these bars were not rigid enough to keep from bending, their flexibility made it possible to gradually work a mirror off the wall without breaking it. I don't recommend this method without reservation to others, as it requires practice and a very sensitive touch to avoid causing a sudden crack, which can be dangerous. But back in the day, I got proficient enough through all the repetitions to remove enough mirror to equip two dance studios and one martial arts dojo wall to wall after I started hauling the undamaged pieces back home to make a little bonus cash.
Great anecdote 'from the trenches' Michael! Glad to hear you're able to repurpose them because it always pains me to toss a perfectly good mirror for the fact it has glue on the back and it's a custom size... Best, Matt
Glazier here that's put in hundreds of mirrors like this. Really well done, great method, I'll definitely be using this method in the future. Your videos are always great!
I don’t know why you said you did it by yourself; there were always two and I saw as many four workers in there at one point. Matt, Chip, Chap, and Chump. Thanks for the great lesson Matt!
If you would have used a sky hook on that mirror it wouldn’t have fallen like that!
Had a friend of mine almost loose an arm when the mirror shattered and sliced thru his forearm. The bleeding was extensive. Put sticky carpet protector on the mirror face before you remove it or invest in Kevlar shirt/sleeves so we can watch the rest of your vids with you having both arms.
Having seen you remove a sheetrock wall with no mess on a previous video, as soon as I saw the title, I knew you were again going to deliver a new method I would want to learn! Kudos!
HGTV would have used the hammer...and then spent 3 hours off camera cleaning up the shards. Good work Matt. I've had good luck removing mirrors that way too.
I'm glad that no shims were harmed in the making of this video. I was quite worried that they may have splintered or split.
I've been hoping that you would show a video removing a wall mirror ever since your closet makeover when you said that you wished you had filmed it. I also have three that I want to remove, and if possible, have them cut down and put into a frame for reuse.
I don't know what algorithm You Tube uses, but you are now at the top of my subscribed channels list.
It's probably got something to do with the binge watching/commenting you're doing here. They seem to recognize it and I certainly appreciate it!! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm gaining on ya! And learning some good things for the remodel and repairs I am doing. The number of videos in the channel also seems to have something to do with it.
@@twwtb liked "I'm gaining on ya!" LOL 😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm happy to work the algorithms too.
@@twwtb Two can play at the game, right?!
Watched your tutorial and removed my mirror with no issues and in one piece 🤗 Slow is key, for sure .. and PPE. Thank you so much!!!!
Very cool... thanks for letting me know and kudos for grasping the key takeaway from the video: slow is the way to go!
Great job! By your video I can see this job may be too challenging for a ONE “OLDER” person job. For that I am grateful! I like doing DYI’s but I won’t be tackling this one by myself.
I tried out your technique using shims and duct tape to removed mirrors for a wet bar nook remodel and it worked perfectly, thank you
Glad to hear it thanks for letting me know!
Best, Matt
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was really helpful with our bathroom project!
Good work 👍 I contracted with a glass company to remove wall to wall mirrors, that went to the ceiling. Flashback to the 70s. They used a lot more tape and brute force pulling on the vacuum suction cups, to detach the mirrors from the walls. Copious amounts of broken mirror had to be cleaned up when it was over.
Wonderful comment on Habitat for Humanity. It speaks volumes of your character and your stock just went up a lot in my book! Bravo!!
Outstanding presentation. Your ability to do the work and also narrate the video is commendable. Old video but thanks for the lesson on removing a mirror!
You're quite welcome Robert... thanks for watching and commenting!
Best, Matt
Great stuff!!! A very good way to remove glued mirrors. I'll use this method when I need it, no doubts. Thanks for sharing.
I was extremely happy to find this video, my house has a few of those mirrors and I want to fancy them up. But after watching the video I'm just going to dress them up with door casings and call it a day. Great information though, thanks!
Another Next Level Nugget of wisdom! Thanks, Matt.
Whatever this guy charges, IT'S WORTH IT! Great, Great, Great!
Matt, awesome level of work, love you repurpose the old hardware and cabinets with habitat for humanity. Another level of additional work on your side benefiting others is a mark of a good man. Thank you for the video. Never thought about using shims, excellent. Hooked on your channel. Thank you for great 👍 inspiration in solving problems.
Love this! I see all too many smash it up demos - this is brilliant!
Second favourite MJ tip after the sheetrock removal video. Nice work matey.
Very ingenious! I use lots of Duct tape, Gloves, and a long sleeve Shirt, and where possible a Hand Saw slipped behind to help cut the Glue. Getting up above the Mirror the way you did is a lot safer incase the Shards fall.
Matt, your videos are amazing now compared to your first efforts! Thanks for all your tips and tricks, I have learned a lot from your videos. Keep up the good work!
Hey Chris; thanks for noticing and commenting on video quality here. Learning video production skills (such as they are) has been one of the toughest challenges I've taken on in recent years. It can still be frustrating but it's encouraging to know at least a little progress is visible! From one Jackson to another: Best, Matt
Having watch more than a few of your videos it hit me that if you had an extra long or tall mirror you could take one of your super shims cut it into sections that would fit between the top of the mirror in the ceiling and gradually send the shims down stacking the sections on top of each other to eventually get the mirror completely loose with that cream and putting your hands behind it. Great video always learn some something when I watch your videos. My take away today was too soon old too late smart. That might make an amazing T-shirt as well. As always thank you man wish you the best.
I'm about to do this again... I wish I had seen this video. SOOOO much safer and easier. Great content.
This is a very helpful video! I own my own glass shop and in the past glued on mirrors were always taken down by breaking them up. I don't use a hammer though. I cut them up with my glass cutter and take them off in pieces. Next time I have a call for this I'll give your method a try. Thanks for the idea.
I did this about a year ago, when I went to change out a bathroom light fixture and found a splice just living in the wall, which led to finding 3 hidden j boxes behind the drywall, and redoing the bathroom's electrical. Fun times.
You are just SUPERB "SIR " AWESOME SKILLS.
This helped so much! luckily the Mirror was stuck with double sided tape so no wall damage! Thank you!!
I've never seen the shims being used like this. I have always used wire to saw thru the adhesive. Then again, I have not come across a mirror hard up against a wall or cabinetry. This, I will try on my next reno. Thanks
This video will be very useful as I have a bathroom remodel coming up in a bit. Thank you Matt for the class
You're welcome Tom. I'm sure there's a mirror 'out there' that won't come off with this method but its definitely what I'd use as a first attempt. BTW I figure that using the longest shims possible with similar taper would give you a better chance if your mirror doesn't seem to yield to removal like the ones in the video did. You probably noticed the photo at 2:35 which was the first mirror I did using shims. That thing was REALLY stuck with both mastic and strips of doublestick tape. Luckily I was able to slip shims in from all 4 sides because otherwise I don't think it would have come off without breaking... but longer shims might have made a difference. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I have used dental floss to remove emblems from car/motorcycle parts, I wonder is something like that would work if you had room the saw it back and forth behind the mirror? Might have to give it a try one day
@@tomtruesdale6901 I like the floss/emblem tip... thanks again! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry works well and does not scratch the paint
Excellent! Many thanks for sharing your video - We just removed a large 245cm x 70cm mirror in one piece using your technique.
Congrats, Mark... glad to hear it went well AND safely!
Best, Matt
can you go into some detail on how you would repair the glued areas after removing mirrors? thx
Once upon a time I was a glazier, and my parents own a glass shop. We always used shims similar to what you did.......if just yanking on it with a suction cup didn’t work first. Starting at a corner, place an 8” suction cup and start yanking on it in a moderate fashion, if it doesn’t start to separate, then resort to shims.
He was clear and to the point! Great job!
Just for the sake of future mirror installations. It's recommended to apply the glue in vertical stripes not blobs. Adhesive should be applied thoroughly in the corners to prevent possible cracking. Remember not to push the mirror to hard when installing because it will be curved.
Not click bait. I'm glad you didn't use the sledge and make it a reality tv butchery. I was nervous about the second mirror. Could gently heating the mirror to soften the adhesive? Use hair dryer or torch at a distance?
Intriguing method, thanks for the insight - glad to know all the furniture will get another life where its needed.
Hey Matt great Video! I've recently found your channel. Really enjoy it and your humor cracks me up. I've learnt so much from your videos already. Thank you!
Welcome, Tom. Glad you discovered NLC and get a chuckle or two while learning. I question putting 'silly stuff' in the videos for fear it will cause viewers not to take me seriously so I'm glad to know it's not a detractor for you. Even if it negatively affects UA-cam view stats there's little chance I'll quit including 'humor'... I just can't seem to help myself when it comes to ad-lib silliness. 🤡🤡 Best, Matt
Is there anywhere where we can ask you questions about our own projects?
@@tomgilberg8038 not on Next Level Carpentry... unfortunately it's just not feasible. There's plenty of woodworking forums where you might find answers. For me, personally, I do a bit of consulting on an hourly basis but, for most projects, the cost would be impractical/prohibitive. I might consider adding an hour of consulting for Patreon Patrons at some level but haven't had the time/need to do so as yet. Best, Matt
Thank you very much for sharing this video with me. I really need to get this done and I have to do it by myself.
I wish that I had seen this 4 days ago when I was having to remove 12, 12"x12" mirror tile off a paneled wall. Now I know.
Kathleen Basieiwcz One thing I’ve learned as a do it yourself home owner is always check UA-cam first! I can’t even calculate the $$$ I’ve saved over the years by learning from fellow UA-camrs...
Worked for a glass shop for nine years. If the mirror is attached with mastic (mirror adhesive), you can usually soften it up by gently heating with a heat gun. Just get it warm to the touch. If they used silicone or construction adhesive, it won't help. Always use mirror mastic to install. Liquid nails is the worst, can cause the mirror to break on the wall because it expands and contracts.
I like your style big man, keep shooting your videos, (a beginner wood worker from scotland)
I used this method to remove a 4' x 4' mirror. I covered the mirror with contact paper from the dollar store. Put shims in place on side, hit briefly with hair drier. Gently tapped shims with hammer, went to do other chores. Heard some shims fall. Went back, put a few more over top of remaining shims. Heard s bunch of shims fall, went back to find mirror was attached only by the clips at the bottom. We still can't believe how easy this was!!!
I need 3 mirrors taken down but I’m scared to do this! Great job 👏🏾 sir
You can hire a glass shop to remove them... gotta respect big pieces of glass, for sure! Much cheaper to pay a pro than make a trip to the ER... Best, Matt
Nice tips. If you ever have a really tight spot and can't get your hand behind the mirror, try sliding an air bag in there. A few pumps will inflate the air bag and help pop the mirror loose.
Air bag? Nice, Mike, I never even thought of that but I like it and will keep it in mind for future mirror jobs... Thanks! Best, Matt
Matt. Great Video. I always wondered the best way to do this.
In addition to the shims and suction cups we use a couple of "air shims" or "winbag" ( same thing just different brand names) makes things so much easier
Excellent video demonstration and we were so impressed by the skill and discipline of this guy! Thank you for posting. A question - would it be useful to steam off the paint around the edges?
Not quite sure what you mean about steaming off the paint around the edges but Steam on painted sheetrock will effectively ruin the sheetrock... Best, Matt
I was guessing at the beginning of the video (before you showed the shims) that you would use a thin wire or twine to run behind the mirror to saw through the adhesivie. I'm suprised that the mirror could flex that much without breaking. Maybe the mirror backing helps to reinforce the glass? Another great video!
Very helpful and nice tools. Thanks for sharing.
I'm planning on redoing a 1/2 bath in a few month and want to remove the mirror. But nervous about it. This video makes it look doable.
Good tip. I had success using fishing line in the past
Another well presented lesson. Thanks Matt.
In this bathroom there was a lot of space above the mirror so you can make some custom long shingles at the same 1/4" per foot bevel, (ie 1/16" to 9/16" for a 2' shingle, or 1/16" to 13/16" for a 3' shingle). That reduces bending of the mirror and allows it to be pushed out from the middle as the shim is pushed down and not just at the top.
Great tips, thank you for sharing! That wallpaper looks like Medusa's hair if she went to a luau.
Those cabinets look like they were made by Riss Bros., who I used to work for in the 70's. Especially the corner cabinet, with the tambour door at the bottom. I installed many of them.
You had me at "Too soon old and too late smart"
Love your show, my only suggestion would be to line up the shims with the studs especially if the mirror is really stuck to the wall.
I cut the drywall about three inches beyond the mirror and lift the mirror still attached to the drywall out in one piece. You can save the mirror that way. Even a large piece of drywall will only have a dozen or so drywall screw affixing it to the studs, and they pull through under the weight of the mirror when it is encouraged to lean forward.
Very informative Matt. I have to admit, I had a slight case of puckeritus as you were working those mirrors off. I hate glass, to many bad experiences with it. Though, as usual, you make it seem easy. Oh, and you are correct about that wall paper. That might have looked good from the back of a galloping horse tho.
I just took one down with a couple of Winbag inflatable shims, worked like a charm.
Interesting. Others have mentioned that method and, along with your comment, I look forward to comparing performance on future mirror removals... Best, Matt
An possible idea for unsticking the mirror when you get some gap is to slide a cut bandsaw behind the mirror to cut the glue free.
I like that Idea. Some of these glues are very difficult to get a wire through as some are suggesting. I've had to remove up to 4x8 foot mirror and used shims and worked well. A cut badsaw blade would have helped out alot though!👍
Once again, very slick, very smart and safe. Thank you.
Nice work Matt!
I was given the tip to use a heat gun or a hair dryer to blow hot air behind the mirror via the space made using the shims. In theory this warms us the glue or silicone to help it break away from the drywall or plaster backing board. I also heated the mirror at about the depth of the shims thinking this warm surface would do the same for the glue material behind. Also when the shims seem to "hit" the glued spot, then I started a new shim about 2 inches away from this thinking that I would clear the glued spot.
This went pretty smooth, but some don't give up quite so easily. I used the shim method on a recent bathroom mirror removal and none of the glue separated or popped free like it did in this case. Every single daub of glue took the drywall paper with it, and it doesn't just pull it off in a nice circle. It comes off in big tears far larger than the glue area. Maybe the glue was older and harder. Either way, the shim method is still the way to go.
Great how to video. My biggest problem with removing mirrors is some old guy in my mirror keeps staring at me.
Awesome job! I've removed mirrors like this also, though those longer shims make it look easier! I use the Wood Powr-Grip suction cups but these look like they worked just fine! Awesome job on presentation, love watching your videos!
Total pro Matt......always !
Thanks for watching and commenting Don... hope all's well in your world... or acceptable at least? Best, Matt
Sir you really had me nervous when you had the sledgehammer, lol!😅
Lol 😂 he had me for a sec with the rubber hammer.
Same 😂😂
Ingenious Matt awesome work👌🏽👌🏽
I'm wondering if you made flat shim extensions that were like open-ended crest wrenches on one side and you used them to drive the first shims further down. The extension shims could be used in series to drive each other and ultimate the first shim. could probably peel the glass complete away from the wall even if lots of adhesive was used.
Good job! Now I know how to take the mirror backing off my St Michael deco.
Had a mirror bit bigger than that in the ensuite. Glued to the wall, no framing. I used my late dad's 60yr old, 30 inch long, hand saw. Slid it behind the mirror on 3 sides and sawed off the glue. No cracks, no breaks. But will definitely try the shims if doing the main bathroom.
Sawing in from the edges is a decent option but often mirror size and location prevents it... it is nice to have options though to be able to remove a mirror regardless of its location😁😎Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt, I was lucky... there were no cabinets either side and we have high ceilings. Will need shims for the main bathroom tho, so thank you for your excellent educational demo. 😅
@@jamishep make sure you're very careful with that big mirror as I could have had a very serious accident with the big one I removed that chipped when it fell onto the countertop. Even a slight chip in The Mirror's Edge can cause the crack to run leaving you standing in a pile of huge sharp mirror shards... I learned from comments from professional Glaziers who said I was extremely lucky not to end up with a trip to ER so I'm passing their admonition along to you so that your project is safe and successful. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for the tips Matt, I'll be careful. I also wear my kevlar-lined pants, shirt and gloves, remnants from my prison working days... 🙂
@@jamishep don't want to get stabbed with a shank now do you?! 😬
great video, always wondered the best way to get these off. those must be some rich people to tear out a bathroom in near perfect shape....
Great job, pal, I will use it right away, thanks.