Great weld...but a couple questions you didn't explain in the video that will help some guys our. Did you use 3/32 rod all the way out, what amps did you run thr hot pass and cap at? Also did you consume your bridge tacks or did you grind them out?
Id never met a welder that consumed the bridge tacks on piping that required X ray... well actually im lying, yes i have met one, but this guy got a hard on for Mig welding, especially when he knew that the pipe required no x ray and he could just tie in to his bridge tack. Anyways, when dealing with smaller thin walled pipe, obviously you would want to burn a bit colder, otherwise you will interpass the crap out of the pipe. You cant burn a 1/8 rod at 80 amps, let alone 50 amps, so you have to use a smaller wire. I like to burn my cap a little colder than my fill, so i can have good control of my puddle
I've found my sweet spot is a 2.4mm gap, root with 1.6mm wire at 68 amps. I run the cap quite hot and quick at around 80-85 with 1.6mm wire again. Leaves a lovely tight weave 🤙 I'd only ever use bridge tacks on site welds when purging the entire line isn't efficient for the sake of a few tacks.
great video it help me a lot. Anyway, I would like to see the stainless stick for fill and cap at 6G position for F6/F5 welding test. Thank you for the video.
Great video I have a question, if the pipe is for fluids flowing through them would they ha e a issue with the weld build up on the inside causing restriction to the flow ? As always thank you for sharing with us the great videos.
Yes it would. A reduction in crossectional area means the fluids flow rate will increase (speed up) also a reduction in area increases the Reynolds number which means the flow might become more turbulent
I work for a company that primarily fabricates pipe for ethanol plant. They don’t like big heavy roots like that for the reasons you’re asking. We generally use a 30 degree bevel with a very sharp landing 1/16” at most. But the two joints right up or just a fraction of daylight and weld around 100 amps and using 1/16th filler rod. The roots look like you just tig wash the inside. It works pretty nice to be honest
Are you purging the 2" pipe as you are filling the gap? Would a cylindrical copper sleeve, used as a backer, work without causing problems? What helmet setup are you using?
Well the guys running the Grand Canyon for a gap. 75 amps and a 1/16”-1/8” gap you can jam this thing out capped by the time he’s got that fat ass root in lol
I remember i tested next to a guy who did the same thing you did, he got sugar all around his root weld. Either he did not open his argon, or....well i dont know what other reason it could be. I kind of took enjoyment in what happen to him, before the test he was this Don Honcho of pipe welding, talking a mile a minute in my booth.....then, he went to Mr. Sugar Man....thats what i remember him since then.....Mr Sugar Man.
Question for Everyone/Anyone that knows. Is it good to practice welding with 6010 when I need to learn 8010 but can’t afford the 8010 rods. Trying to learn downhill pipe but can’t afford 200$ for 8010 rods when 6010 rods are 25$ a box. Yea or no should I be doing this or just bite the bullet and try to get the 8010 rods. I just don’t know if they run similar or not. Any help appreciated.
South Sports Outdoors yes bro definitely worth saving the money just to practice. But sooner or later once you have everything down that pertains with downhill pipe welding, I would advice to bite the bullet and weld with some 8010 just to see how they burn..
Pisses me off when you have 5 different QCs that would disagree and agree with you. "Too heavy....Too low....Too close to flush....Reweld the root....im having a bad day, so im failing this root, even though its perfect all the way around"
How can u avoid tungsten inclusion..i bust an xray on that..slick root..slick cap..but a spot on the bevel were i kind of stuck a lil bit and it showed up on the xray..how do i avoid that
If you got to the point, where you can call your root and cap SLICK - you should be able to manipulate the torch carefully enough without dipping the tungsten, but if you do so - just grind it out.
I would like to also add to this, whenever i visually see that i even dipped my tip a little bit (😏) i like to go back with a grinder and just lightly grind into the spot or spots.
You could also leave that full piece of tungsten sticking out of the weld, put a fresh piece in your torch, light up where the first tungsten is stuck and the whole piece will just fall out. This doesnt work if you stick the tungsten and break the tip off in the weld.
No reason for a 5/32 gap in that man your gap and root are to heavy what y’all got going on down there dude why do guys always leave an entire caterpillar of weld in these pipe.no need for it
Backfeeding is extremely popular on the gulf coast and most places love seeing a 3/32 - 1/8 reinforcement on the inside. Of course this depends on the application but many places get a hard on for that shit on this side of the country
I am a young man living in Korea. I don't know how to speak English, so I'm using a translator. Is there any way to get the welding surface that is being used in UA-cam videos?
when encountering spots in the field that harry houdeni coudln't get into , it's then that you know what your fitter is thinking and it aint good thoughts for you or about you as a weldor... and something needs to be done about that cause it aint the welders problem but it's a problem he got put in the box of by a fitter that like i said Harry Houdini couldn't get out of. So, with that said, if the fitter is so job-scared that he's making you look bad as a weldor in order to elevate himself for having just got a fit for you then it's time for real talk with the right people. Sometimes real talk means you part ways with people who aint a good fit for you. So, don't let people "sucker punch you" cause they will do it all day if you as a weldor allow them too. You as a weldor got to put a stop to it. Whatever it takes. Amicably. Assertively.
The tape keeps the gas inside. It's called a purge. With stainless you have to fill the pipe with shielding gas to protect the molten metal from the atmosphere.
👇WeldTube Store👇
www.weldlife.com
Welding is Art.. Bring this man back for more stainless Tig he is a BOSS
I just started free-handing last week, and thanks for the great advice man ! I’m going to try it tomorrow in the morning.
Thanks. Great welding. I've been welding 40 years but I will always learn✌👊😎🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
Nicely done :-) loving the voice over music thing team seeing the tutorial in action. Great job weldtube family.
Very well done, this is not an easy test at all. You make it look way easier than it really is.
Your welding is very good 👍👍 bro and I like this your practice ☺️☺️
Well done! I love this tipe of videos, i have a lot to learn by them
Schd 10 is a bear it gets hot so fast definitely a different ball game then scd 80 stainless awSome work love the back feeding
Great weld...but a couple questions you didn't explain in the video that will help some guys our. Did you use 3/32 rod all the way out, what amps did you run thr hot pass and cap at? Also did you consume your bridge tacks or did you grind them out?
Id never met a welder that consumed the bridge tacks on piping that required X ray... well actually im lying, yes i have met one, but this guy got a hard on for Mig welding, especially when he knew that the pipe required no x ray and he could just tie in to his bridge tack.
Anyways, when dealing with smaller thin walled pipe, obviously you would want to burn a bit colder, otherwise you will interpass the crap out of the pipe. You cant burn a 1/8 rod at 80 amps, let alone 50 amps, so you have to use a smaller wire. I like to burn my cap a little colder than my fill, so i can have good control of my puddle
I've found my sweet spot is a 2.4mm gap, root with 1.6mm wire at 68 amps. I run the cap quite hot and quick at around 80-85 with 1.6mm wire again. Leaves a lovely tight weave 🤙
I'd only ever use bridge tacks on site welds when purging the entire line isn't efficient for the sake of a few tacks.
Slam the gap shut and walk the cup with a full penetration 1pass run.
great video it help me a lot. Anyway, I would like to see the stainless stick for fill and cap at 6G position for F6/F5 welding test. Thank you for the video.
How many amps would you go for if you were to use a 3/32 gap and 3/32 308 filler wire?
Good deal man...do you keep the same amps all the way out...i can u back feed that size pipe...just curious😜
Great video I have a question, if the pipe is for fluids flowing through them would they ha e a issue with the weld build up on the inside causing restriction to the flow ? As always thank you for sharing with us the great videos.
Yes it would
Yes it would. A reduction in crossectional area means the fluids flow rate will increase (speed up) also a reduction in area increases the Reynolds number which means the flow might become more turbulent
I work for a company that primarily fabricates pipe for ethanol plant. They don’t like big heavy roots like that for the reasons you’re asking. We generally use a 30 degree bevel with a very sharp landing 1/16” at most. But the two joints right up or just a fraction of daylight and weld around 100 amps and using 1/16th filler rod. The roots look like you just tig wash the inside. It works pretty nice to be honest
Ask for WPS on the jobsite. Some jobs require a flush root. Others are more lenient.
I believe for the UA cert your max root height is 1/16" for this reason
This is Nate that was a nice weld
Are you purging the 2" pipe as you are filling the gap? Would a cylindrical copper sleeve, used as a backer, work without causing problems? What helmet setup are you using?
You can’t use a backer
What was the temp for the cap (amps) and what size rod? What size gas lens 10?
Great tutorial. No need to wire brush clean between welds?
For x-ray yes it is good to do that every time
Make sure it’s for stainless and not carbon
Run the root at 75amps, running colder you'll end up with to much heat in the pipe.
Well the guys running the Grand Canyon for a gap. 75 amps and a 1/16”-1/8” gap you can jam this thing out capped by the time he’s got that fat ass root in lol
I usually run the root at 85 tends to be way more liquidy and better control over the puddle
Sch 10 2in? Yall boys trippin I run it at 50 with a 1/8 root and fill in one pass
I hate that I can't see the wire wen he's dipping
Does it make a difference if I weld with 316 stainless wire on 308 sch 10
And the guys using giant gloves and no auto dark lens and still kicking butt.
He's using an auto. And giant gloves?
great video! A 2" 5g stainless to carbon video would be great
So are you only dipping one wall, or in the center. And are you pushing wire at all
Did you use the same amperage for all passes?
Super wanderful
I don't put tape on the bevels 3" or smaller just turn up the purge, passed all my xrays. Definitely turn down to 10cfh when closing.
I remember i tested next to a guy who did the same thing you did, he got sugar all around his root weld. Either he did not open his argon, or....well i dont know what other reason it could be. I kind of took enjoyment in what happen to him, before the test he was this Don Honcho of pipe welding, talking a mile a minute in my booth.....then, he went to Mr. Sugar Man....thats what i remember him since then.....Mr Sugar Man.
Same here I've done up to 4" no tape and no problem
Making it look easy😁🍻
What current to put it on for hot pass and cap ?
Should be able to run the same amperage from root to cap on schd.10
How about instructions on restricted?
Hey guys do a video with a water cooled torch
I'm learning this and man the cap is is the hardest part. How hot are you running the cap?
Awesome man I copy that
Question for Everyone/Anyone that knows.
Is it good to practice welding with 6010 when I need to learn 8010 but can’t afford the 8010 rods.
Trying to learn downhill pipe but can’t afford 200$ for 8010 rods when 6010 rods are 25$ a box. Yea or no should I be doing this or just bite the bullet and try to get the 8010 rods. I just don’t know if they run similar or not.
Any help appreciated.
South Sports Outdoors yes bro definitely worth saving the money just to practice. But sooner or later once you have everything down that pertains with downhill pipe welding, I would advice to bite the bullet and weld with some 8010 just to see how they burn..
a question, how much amp did you run for the cap.. you didn't say it?
good welding
What size is your land?
What wire did you cap with, and what wire did you hit pass it with
Thanks
If rather do it butt up on 75 amps sink the root keep it nice and flat if I was doing a positional weld I'd have a 1 mill gap maybe 1.6mm
No way that root passes any code way to heavy! 1/16" max reinforcement on sch.10
Pisses me off when you have 5 different QCs that would disagree and agree with you. "Too heavy....Too low....Too close to flush....Reweld the root....im having a bad day, so im failing this root, even though its perfect all the way around"
Thats what i was thinking. Looks like a mountain ridge
That's what I was thinking
@@Ruben901 lol I mean they have specs. Follow them.
Not to mention a 5/32 gap on sch 10 isn’t within spec either. This would never make it in a Nuke.
What heat are you running your passes at?
Great work
How can u avoid tungsten inclusion..i bust an xray on that..slick root..slick cap..but a spot on the bevel were i kind of stuck a lil bit and it showed up on the xray..how do i avoid that
If you got to the point, where you can call your root and cap SLICK - you should be able to manipulate the torch carefully enough without dipping the tungsten, but if you do so - just grind it out.
Agree with first comment , And don’t dio tungsten . If u do make sure u replaetungsten and grind/clean were the spot is at
I would like to also add to this, whenever i visually see that i even dipped my tip a little bit (😏) i like to go back with a grinder and just lightly grind into the spot or spots.
You could also leave that full piece of tungsten sticking out of the weld, put a fresh piece in your torch, light up where the first tungsten is stuck and the whole piece will just fall out. This doesnt work if you stick the tungsten and break the tip off in the weld.
Very good
❤
Where did you buy your welding shield?
ayo what was that root?
Sehr gut 👍 Very Nice 👍
No reason for a 5/32 gap in that man your gap and root are to heavy what y’all got going on down there dude why do guys always leave an entire caterpillar of weld in these pipe.no need for it
Cause they want an 1/8 in our roots, my job titles and pay can argue for me. You guys are different up there but it is what it is
Backfeeding is extremely popular on the gulf coast and most places love seeing a 3/32 - 1/8 reinforcement on the inside. Of course this depends on the application but many places get a hard on for that shit on this side of the country
Every place I’ve been at this root would pass as long as it’s not above 1/8 🤷🏽♂️
I am a young man living in Korea.
I don't know how to speak English, so I'm using a translator.
Is there any way to get the welding surface that is being used in UA-cam videos?
Its called a Tig finger
@@xRaven2x
Hello
I know Tig Finger.
Is there any way I can get the welding mask that the welder is using?
Где можно приобрести такую маску,скиньте ссылку пожалуйста
Exss penatrashin???
when encountering spots in the field that harry houdeni coudln't get into , it's then that you know what your fitter is thinking and it aint good thoughts for you or about you as a weldor... and something needs to be done about that cause it aint the welders problem but it's a problem he got put in the box of by a fitter that like i said Harry Houdini couldn't get out of. So, with that said, if the fitter is so job-scared that he's making you look bad as a weldor in order to elevate himself for having just got a fit for you then it's time for real talk with the right people. Sometimes real talk means you part ways with people who aint a good fit for you. So, don't let people "sucker punch you" cause they will do it all day if you as a weldor allow them too. You as a weldor got to put a stop to it. Whatever it takes. Amicably. Assertively.
What’s the tape for?
The tape keeps the gas inside. It's called a purge. With stainless you have to fill the pipe with shielding gas to protect the molten metal from the atmosphere.
Please upload your next video tig welding tricks ,🔥🔥🔥
5/32 gap good glorious god on thin wall 🤦♂️🤦♂️
song?
the first one
🔥🔥
👨🏭👨🏭🔥🔥🔥
55amps wtf
😢😢😢😢😢🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Root no good
Over pentreshion
Amps too low, travel speed far too slow👎
If you know why are you watching videos on how to do it
Poor
Freedom ncube
What amps was your hot pass and cap?
Exss penatrashin???