@@MF-kv8cn So it's been a bit and I did a ton of research. Paint strength generally goes Acrylic < Enamel < Lacquer. Lacquer thinner will pull up everything. Enamel thinner wil pull up enamel and Acrylic. Acrylic thinner is made to pull up acrylic. That being said every paint company has a different chemistry going on. Oil is a whole nother beast.
@@MF-kv8cn I wouldn't apply this without a protective coat between. Thin coats of gloss varnish will not hold up to enamel thinner I've learned the hard way. Thicker coats ehhhh kind of work. I wouldn't on a mini though. They make acrylic washes for minipainting. I use army painter quick shades. You can't use those on a gunpla though because a lacquer topcoat will eat them right up. It's better to go all acrylic on minis because you don't run into the large flat surface problems. Treat warhammer vehicles like gunpla though. Enamel or lacquer for vehicles, acrylic for people. Reverse the above order for putting paint on top of paint: Lacquer first, then enamel, then acrylic, then acrylic varnish.
@@MF-kv8cn Buy a bottle of Liquitex Gloss and Matte Varnish (or something similar). Everything you paint should have a primer and sealer. From your walls to your car to your minifigs. Goobertown hobbies did a fantastic experiment to compare primer and varnish minis with and without. Enamels can absolutely ruin acrylics. There are lots of good mini painting wash tutorials out there. If you don't want full coverage you can definitely pick up a cheap 00 or 000 synthetic brush to pin wash acrylics. Not sure exactly what size the Tamiya panel line brush is but it looks to be either 00 or 000. I've been painting minis for years, I'm newer to this gunpla stuff.
It all sounds good and it may look nice' to save a little money. I remember that you can used the old remedy. As well then new' im sure people probably would by this product and thats ok! But i have old books of using the old way. But that me and my opinion. Keep ip the good work.
I would never put an enamel wash over paint or bare plastic without protecting the piece first with an acrylic clear coat enamel washes can crumble plastic just a warning.
You really should be using x20 enamel or an equivalent oil-based thinner for Tamiya panel liner. Folks don't follow this advice, especially if you used acrylics as a basecoat.
Would have been more helpful to show on something not pre-painted. I just tried to use this on a model I'm building, and the wash apparently didn't like the clear acrylic layer I was putting it on.
The panel wash is enamel based so u do not want to to put this over acrylic paints unless you have good layers of top coat. Top coats are laquer based ( if you didn't know)
@aussie43 You are correct, enamel thinners like Mr Color or white spirit leaves well-dried acrylics (or lacquers) pretty much alone, which is not the case of X-20A on acrylics: He only gets away with it here because it's a pre-painted model (likely lacquer) that is pretty much bullet-proof. His choice of thinner will ruin people's models, as you see in the comments... Also a well dried model is key. 24 hours minimum.
IDK maybe because it's other "tamAYah" product, makes no sense though especially if you painted something with acrylics first, for oil based washes you should use oil thinners, if u gonna try x20 on top of unprotected acrylics, goodbye paint.
Why can’t someone make a definitive answer on the use of this stuff. Watch 5 videos and you’ll get 5 explanations. I know you are trying to help, but please get it right.
He is using it on a pre-painted model that is probably bullet-proof compared to any real model you would paint yourself: X-20A is the wrong thinner to use, but on a pre-painted surface like that he can get away with anything. White Spirit on acrylics is the thing to use, but I am hoping Mr color thinner might also work. Will try that soon.
Thanks. I just recevied an Order from you guys. great deal and shipping.
You're using acrylic thinner with an enamel. Was that a mistake or does it still work?
@@MF-kv8cn So it's been a bit and I did a ton of research. Paint strength generally goes Acrylic < Enamel < Lacquer. Lacquer thinner will pull up everything. Enamel thinner wil pull up enamel and Acrylic. Acrylic thinner is made to pull up acrylic. That being said every paint company has a different chemistry going on. Oil is a whole nother beast.
@@MF-kv8cn I wouldn't apply this without a protective coat between. Thin coats of gloss varnish will not hold up to enamel thinner I've learned the hard way. Thicker coats ehhhh kind of work. I wouldn't on a mini though. They make acrylic washes for minipainting. I use army painter quick shades. You can't use those on a gunpla though because a lacquer topcoat will eat them right up. It's better to go all acrylic on minis because you don't run into the large flat surface problems. Treat warhammer vehicles like gunpla though. Enamel or lacquer for vehicles, acrylic for people. Reverse the above order for putting paint on top of paint: Lacquer first, then enamel, then acrylic, then acrylic varnish.
@@MF-kv8cn Buy a bottle of Liquitex Gloss and Matte Varnish (or something similar). Everything you paint should have a primer and sealer. From your walls to your car to your minifigs. Goobertown hobbies did a fantastic experiment to compare primer and varnish minis with and without. Enamels can absolutely ruin acrylics. There are lots of good mini painting wash tutorials out there. If you don't want full coverage you can definitely pick up a cheap 00 or 000 synthetic brush to pin wash acrylics. Not sure exactly what size the Tamiya panel line brush is but it looks to be either 00 or 000. I've been painting minis for years, I'm newer to this gunpla stuff.
I would have liked to have seen both gray and back on that white car. You only showed the black, but mentioned do both?
Very informative, thanks.
Cheers you didn’t talk sht just clear explanation TY
It all sounds good and it may look nice' to save a little money. I remember that you can used the old remedy. As well then new' im sure people probably would by this product and thats ok! But i have old books of using the old way. But that me and my opinion. Keep ip the good work.
Do you have to apply a clear coat before panel line wash?
Yes, gloss works best
I would never put an enamel wash over paint or bare plastic without protecting the piece first with an acrylic clear coat enamel washes can crumble plastic just a warning.
You really should be using x20 enamel or an equivalent oil-based thinner for Tamiya panel liner. Folks don't follow this advice, especially if you used acrylics as a basecoat.
is enamel thinner ok ?
yes pref use enamel with tamiya panel linner
can you only use the thinner ? no water?
tamaya
so is this an oil wash or wtf is that stuff?
Would have been more helpful to show on something not pre-painted. I just tried to use this on a model I'm building, and the wash apparently didn't like the clear acrylic layer I was putting it on.
The panel wash is enamel based so u do not want to to put this over acrylic paints unless you have good layers of top coat. Top coats are laquer based ( if you didn't know)
@aussie43 You are correct, enamel thinners like Mr Color or white spirit leaves well-dried acrylics (or lacquers) pretty much alone, which is not the case of X-20A on acrylics: He only gets away with it here because it's a pre-painted model (likely lacquer) that is pretty much bullet-proof. His choice of thinner will ruin people's models, as you see in the comments... Also a well dried model is key. 24 hours minimum.
Why X-20A?
IDK maybe because it's other "tamAYah" product, makes no sense though especially if you painted something with acrylics first, for oil based washes you should use oil thinners, if u gonna try x20 on top of unprotected acrylics, goodbye paint.
I would never do that.
Why can’t someone make a definitive answer on the use of this stuff. Watch 5 videos and you’ll get 5 explanations. I know you are trying to help, but please get it right.
He is using it on a pre-painted model that is probably bullet-proof compared to any real model you would paint yourself: X-20A is the wrong thinner to use, but on a pre-painted surface like that he can get away with anything. White Spirit on acrylics is the thing to use, but I am hoping Mr color thinner might also work. Will try that soon.
тамАя... тамИя, епта.