It's a common cleaning product found here in the UK which can be used to thin down enamel paints. It goes by other names in other countries. I found the below information which might be more helpful if you aren't in the UK: From Wikipedia: White spirit (AU, UK & Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
I’ve been building models since 1970...but I’m a old DOG... but I can learn new tricks...I buy water color kits for children... use them for washes...lay them down heavy and use Q tips to clean... excellent video... VERY INFORMATIVE GREAT JOB... Chris from Ohio...Sept 24th 2020
@@THROTTLEPOWER Yeah, I will propably try it, the last layer of paint is drying right now, but I'm a little concerned I covered up most of the details, since it's my first kit and I kinda just getting the feel of it so it did not turn out as good as I planned, hope i'll have something left to highlight in the end. If not, I think I'm just gonna let it be like that and move on to the next one.
If you use enamel colours to paint the model, once dry, you can the use an acrylic varnish and once that is dry, apply the enamel washes, as the acrylic varnish will act as a barrier protecting the Enamel paint underneath. An alternate method is to add the panel lines using a fine nibbed drawing pen, the type you can get from the Works.
Gary, do you mean a sort of tech drawing pen....? Just going to start a build of the Revell 1:600 scale T.O.S Enterprise, hundreds of panel lines on saucer section alone! Haven't built plastic kits in 45 Years!! Didn't do that level of detail then, in fact some didn't get paint at all! Lol!
I'm sorry, I've re-read comments and re watched video. I'm new to this and still confused. I've just finished painting my 1st plane with testors enamels. I was going to use gloss acrylic clear coat to apply the decals over. I planned on adding weathering, smoke stains then, and finishing with a matte acrylic coat to seal it all up. Is that correct? Or should I be using an enamel clear coat over my enamel paint? I got confused just writing this! But thanks for any help.
Just finished building the Airfix 1/72 A6M2 and took the plunge with an enamel wash (went dark brown) after watching this tutorial a few times. it's an absolute game-changer. Great work, Matt!
As a model builder for the past fifty years, you give out quick solutions to increase the appearance of the finished model. This is so important to beginners. The general lack of young model builders in North America, is disturbing. I blame video game addiction.
I feel that video games are so much "easier" to get into - scale modelling must look like quite a challenge im comparison - even though it's probably just the same amount of difficulty. I do try and help this hobby out as i really enjoy it, and I hope that people find these videos useful and enjoyable
Young scale modeler here. I find myself putting more money into kits than buying games. I do agree with your statement, as a majority of my peers would rather spend 60 bucks on a new game, than on paints and tools. I guess we all have different priorities.
Here where I live I use Bitumen of Judea as a wash. It is cheap and easy diluted. And also I can use it for weathering as well, like war tanks and such.
One question. After watching a couple of your videos I realized that you like keep costs down but why don’t you Never fill in the center seam of your model? It does make a biiiig difference
I didn't do it on this one because it was only meant to be a test bed. Sometimes I simply don't see the point, but to say that I never sand it down would be inaccurate. There are a number of videos out there where I do sand it down, if not on screen, certainly off of it
Very good tutorial. Thanks. One question: Should we apply a coat of matt or gloss finish before applying the wash; if so, what is the recommended base of the coat (acryllic or enamel)?
A gloss varnish will help your wash flow better. It should be the opposite of whatever the wash is (so for enamel wash I would use a gloss acrylic coat as the base)
Great trick and good result for a cost-effective solution, thanks for sharing this! by the way, watching some of your builds I've realized that you never use an airbrush (achieving very good results in my opinion with brush technics), is there any particular reason why you don't use one? Thanks!
thanks for watching! My lack of airbrush is simply as I didn't own one at the time - but if you have subscribed with notifications on you may well see some changes soon!
I bulk-produce tanks and the like to make up toy soldier sets I give away, I use enamels and have two bottles of thinners for cleaning, the first to get the bulk off the second to finish the job. The first bottle soon ends up as a dirty mix and that, applied sparingly with a large brush, makes a very good instant weathering finish. Not sure it'd work well on aircraft though.
Wow, I didn't know you no should use a enamal paints+thinners if your using acrylic paints. I just put slot of water into humbrol Matt 30 cuz I'm poor like that :0. And good video, keep up the good work c:
Many otherwise careful and excellent modelers use a black wash to fill in panel lines. However, if you observe photos of and actual airplanes that are in regular use, you do not see their panel lines so clearly and they are certainly not black. I suggest that you darken whatever colour you will be using on that surface just a bit and use that to fill the panel lines, etc. The result will be far more realistic. The same goes for built-up models of fabric-covered airplanes. Too many modelers make the rib stitching and tape pop out too vividly. Go to any airport where fabric-covered airplanes are tied down. Of course, Rhinebeck Aerodome is ideal for this but most small airports have a Cub or something like that sitting around. Look at the airplane, particularly the wing top from a distance in good light, and move in. Take note of when you can actually see the rib stitching. You'll get pretty close up. Anyway, that's my two pence.
Did you ever try artists oil paints (those in tubes) diluted with lighter fluid? Works easy on both acrylic and enamel gloss paints and looks great. Imho the best for panel lines. You can also make some very realistic looking oil stains or other dirt tracks. At last one layer of flat or semigloss clear to fix.
You’re one of my favourite youtubers, you’re honest, you get to the point and you’re helpful. Plus you’re entertaining as provide great content! Keep it up bro! :)
@@ModelMinutes I do on quite a lot of my model making already. I'm currently making a short series on painting models which includes a short clip on how not to do it. That model be revived for another video and I'll include it in that I think.
In case nobody else has mentioned it, cheap makeup sponges are e better alternative to cotton buds and paper towels both, as there is nothing to flake off.
Ronsol lighter fluid can also remove enamel wash without hurting the acrylic - just dont rub it too vigorously. If you use a lacquer clear coat over the model first (gloss) it will improve the flow action and will protect the underlayer of paint in case you make a mistake
Thank you so much this was the video I was looking for I’m doing a remote control car body and I saw a fellow with the same accent you have. Anyways thank you so much really appreciate it I wish I could post pictures with the comments but that isn’t figured out yet Ronaldo panel loans
I use oil paint with abit of light fluid it can be used on any paint and the fluid doesn't do any damage to the paint or if doing an acrylic its it's normally 70% water 30% paint same with enamel really but the oil wash is best tbh
A gloss can be better as it will help encourage the wash to run into the panel lines and details, a matt surface might make the wash just "stick" where it is applied
@@ModelMinutes ahh that's why I couldn't find one. Would be rather interested in seeing how you would do it. Saw some chap using chipping solutions and this that and the other .
@@abiparmar I protected the decals with a varnish layer normally - but that was also acrylic (a gloss one will help the panel wash flow into the lines better)
it can, but naturally you will have to use water or another thinning medium, but take care if the wash is being applied to an acrylic paint layer as you could run the risk of removing it if using thinners
Yeah, you can even add a drop of dish soap to reduce the surface tension too. I used this method on my Airfix Churchill if you want to check it out. Just be aware that if the wash dries on the model, you will have to use acrylic thinner to remove the excess as water will not be strong enough to do it
that's essentially what this is - the enamel wash is super fluid though and runs into all the details. If using acrylic paint for example, some people add a drop of dish soap to break the surface tension when they thin it with water. It really depends on the paint that you want to use and how you thin it
Hi! Ive tried to highlight panel lines on my first build using AK washes and revell color mix thinner. when trying to remove the excess wash i ended up stripping a lot of the surrounding area (hand painted acrylic) through the clear coat down to the plastic before i had removed enough of the wash. what am i doing wrong here?
Sounds like a couple of things could be happening.. The acrylic paint was not 100% cured before you started the washes and the removal of the wash took the paint away. Something in the Revell Color mix or ak wash reacted with the acrylic paints and removed them (I’m not familiar with them so don’t know their composition) Physically rubbing too hard and removed the paint through abrasion
If you want. You could use an acrylic wash but you wouldn’t be able to use an acrylic thinner to remove excess because it would also remove the original paint. That’s why I alternate paint types
@@elliotgregory3356 no, white spirit removes oil or enamel, you need a specific acrylic thinner or alcoholic thinner for acrylic Edit: I have known white spirit to remove acrylic on occasion, but usually because it is simply stripping all the paint and not the acrylic specifically
I dont normally wait too long - I generally like to remove it whilst it is still wet. Some enamels, when they dry, become hard to reactivate so to avoid this, removing the excess whilst it is still wet should help
white spirit won't dilute acrylic paint as it is not a solvent for that kind of product. White spirit will work on enamel (oil) based paints. For acrylic you need water or an alcohol based thinner usually
hey, i hope you can help me with my problem, i tried to make a wash with white spirit and revell enamel email matt black, roughly 1:10, i painted trainer yellow and aluminium humbrol onto spare drop tanks to test, and let the wash i created seep in to panel lines and rivets, but for some reason the acrylic humbrol paint i put on previously started coming off too as i applied to wash, like rubbing off and curling up, would love to know where i went wrong as ive never been good at weathering or using washes
@@ModelMinutes i figured out the problem, for the most part, i over diluted the wash with white spirits alot, and the humbrol alluminum acrylic is a very weak and thin consistency, comes off easily
Up to you really. I usually apply a gloss or satin varnish over the paint and decals to protect them, then do my washes, then put a Matt varnish over when the wash is dry
I have just begun modeling and are working on limited paints, so I was wondering if acrylic paints could be used in place of enamel paint when making the wash, does it still work?
@Markus Der Auslander Thanks for the information, I didn't want to try anything until I was sure, although I had problems trying to find information. Thank you for the help!
@@ModelMinutes Thank you for the clear up, the Airfix Churchill video was very helpful with washes and weathering as a whole. I'll have to keep an eye out for more of your videos like that!
I pinned the answer in the top comment, but for clarity I'll reply here as wel as it has been asked and answered a number of times: It's a common cleaning product found here in the UK which can be used to thin down enamel paints. It goes by other names in other countries. I found the below information which might be more helpful if you aren't in the UK: From Wikipedia: White spirit (AU, UK & Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
I do mention in the video that you can use any colour of enamel paint to make a wash out of. Ultimately though, it’s my model, I’ll build it how I want. Just because you would have used a lighter wash doesn’t mean that I should too. I build for fun, not accuracy
As you said its your creation, the suggestion was made based on authenticity and also to help other viewers. These additional comments will assist on a better understanding for all who approach modelling. I agree, perhaps a different "shade of grey" no punn intended.
Yes I use this too, but it's a fine line (excuse the pun), between not enough and too much. The scale of the model and what time in its service ??? And of course the artists interpretation. Please take no offense but for me the panel lines are too heavy at that scale for that subject. Like I said, that is my opinion which is not in any way gospel. Lol. If it makes you happy then surely that is what is most important.
Thanks! I made this purely as a demonstration piece - you'd be surprised by how many "purists" get upset about it not being "historically accurate" - but that's not the point of the video, it's about showing people different skills
You don’t have to, but there are benefits of doing it. A gloss or satin varnish before applying a wash will not only protect the decals, but help the wash flow into panel lines. A more flat/Matt surface can prevent this and it will just stay on the surface rather than “running off”. It’s up to you though
And another advantage is that you don't have to keep the wash in one of those damned Humbrol child proof bottles where the lid either gums up solid or else goes round and round clicking merrily away and never releasing the lid! I really hate those things!
I don't follow. If you're comparing me to the footballer based off the sound of my voice, i'm not sure we sound alike to be honest. And surely Nigel has more than enough money that he wouldn't need to waste his time making modelling videos
Don't Indian Inks get used any more . Can you still get it ? It's what I used over 50 years ago also enamel washes and house paint on WW2 tanks and planes. Glad folk still love it but RC has died sadly.
Hmmm, right from the start we're told about "panel lines that really stand out", that Spitfire wing being a perfect example. This, in my opinion, is the problem. Most real aircraft do not have 'panel lines that really stand out'....unless they're really filthy, which most of them just aren't (even WW2 aircraft, it loses speed & it can be dangerous). I wish people would go & look at real photos & stop looking at the current fashion & other peoples models. Obviously things like the control surfaces will have a line with a lot of contrast, but panel lines...what are they lifting/separating or something? In my view light pencil lines & slight colour modulation between panels are all that is needed for a much more realistic look.
I never said this was "Super - realistic". If you look at the title it's "super-easy". If you're watching my channel for realism you're going to be disappointed i'm afraid. I model for fun, with the aim of encouraging new members to the hobby with easy to follow builds and simple tutorials to help guide them on their modelling journey. Realism comes with research into the topic that you are building, which is an entirely personal endeavour and you can choose how much or how little you want to do. Personally, i don't have a problem that you have a problem with this
@@ModelMinutes thanks for the reply. Of course I accept the adage 'each to to their own' but I thought most of us were trying to create models which accurately (as best we could, accepting we all have different levels of skill) portrayed the subject. Perhaps not.
@@gixxerman0016 There are many modellers who look to create highly accurate miniatures, and there are a number of models on my channel i like to think as being relatively accurate (i mean I haven't got a mustang with pink polka dots on . . . yet) but at what point do we decide something is accurate and something isn't? Again, that is a matter of individual perspective. For me, If i'm striving for insane levels of accuracy and realism it starts to sacrifice the fun. The fun and enjoyment is why I do this hobby. When it stops being fun, I stop doing it. After all, this is a hobby isn't it? Each of us is fully within our rights to put as much or as little effort into it as we feel we want to, and no one should be made to feel inadequate or be the subject of negativity just because they don't enjoy certain aspects or have the same motives for building as others
The panel lines are quite bad employed in 1/72 planes---- WHY? BECAUSE The plane needs the most flat surfaces to get the most aerodinamic efficency. Check the real planes, and ull notice they ARE NOT BLACK. THESE LINES ARE JUST A BIT DARKER, DUE TO THE LOW QUANTITY OF DUST AND MAYBE THE SHADOW.
You read the title of the video right? I never said this was meant to be realistic . . . (as mentioned in the video you can pick different colours depending on how much you really care about that stuff)
I make nearly all my own washes etc...one great example of home made is pigments...I use school poster paint powdered versions...theres hundreds of colours and water based so easy to mix and clean off and once laquered etc they are permanent...500mg of powder paint less than 50p
Great tutorial Matt! Altough i prefer oil washes just because they can easily be wiped out without any thinner and oil paints can be used as exhaust stains too and i cant wait for your next build video because the last one with churchill was freaking amazing and enjoyable . ( my personal opinion ofc )
@@ModelMinutes definitely try them. You can manipulate them as you wish with very realistic result and you don't need to buy any expensive oil paints. I am working now with 2 € oil paints and they are working fine for me!
In the real world, panel lines are not very dark or wide. Something just a shade darker than none at all is more realistic than dark, prominent, obvious lines. Less is best. And not all areas are equal. Flaps, ailerons, stabilizers, etc, and typically oily areas such as engine nacelles, exhaust, and wheel well areas can be a shade or two darker, but not real dark !
Looks great, next time you do British camo on a plane you should try a brown wash for the panel lines, I've done it on a few wargaming pieces that are using German camo and it looks more subtle but enough to stand out :)
@@ModelMinutes yeah it seems to suit the green and brown a bit more, and with greys I'll use black, white lighter greys I use a darker grey. It's weird but that's how I do it :) more scale realistic shadow I guess on the underside you could use black on everything bevaisebits naturally going to be darker anyway
What is "white spirit" ?
It's a common cleaning product found here in the UK which can be used to thin down enamel paints. It goes by other names in other countries. I found the below information which might be more helpful if you aren't in the UK:
From Wikipedia:
White spirit (AU, UK & Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
@Model Minutes Thank you I wasn't sure.
If you're in North America, look for 'mineral spirits' at your local hardware store. Same thing,
Racist paint thinner.
I’ve been building models since 1970...but I’m a old DOG... but I can learn new tricks...I buy water color kits for children... use them for washes...lay them down heavy and use Q tips to clean... excellent video... VERY INFORMATIVE GREAT JOB... Chris from Ohio...Sept 24th 2020
Very cool! Thanks for the info!
Yep, those work good Chris.
Hmm... Maybe I should use this method since I painted my model with enamels.
@@elpatrico2562 It works pretty good.
@@THROTTLEPOWER Yeah, I will propably try it, the last layer of paint is drying right now, but I'm a little concerned I covered up most of the details, since it's my first kit and I kinda just getting the feel of it so it did not turn out as good as I planned, hope i'll have something left to highlight in the end. If not, I think I'm just gonna let it be like that and move on to the next one.
If you use enamel colours to paint the model, once dry, you can the use an acrylic varnish and once that is dry, apply the enamel washes, as the acrylic varnish will act as a barrier protecting the Enamel paint underneath. An alternate method is to add the panel lines using a fine nibbed drawing pen, the type you can get from the Works.
Yes, you’re quite right. Same way how I use an enamel varnish to protect my acrylic layers if I use an acrylic wash ☺️
Thank you for the tip, I use enamel paints on my models. I’m a bit of a beginner and this will really help my models look more realistic
Gary, do you mean a sort of tech drawing pen....? Just going to start a build of the Revell 1:600 scale T.O.S Enterprise, hundreds of panel lines on saucer section alone! Haven't built plastic kits in 45 Years!! Didn't do that level of detail then, in fact some didn't get paint at all! Lol!
I'm sorry, I've re-read comments and re watched video. I'm new to this and still confused. I've just finished painting my 1st plane with testors enamels. I was going to use gloss acrylic clear coat to apply the decals over. I planned on adding weathering, smoke stains then, and finishing with a matte acrylic coat to seal it all up. Is that correct? Or should I be using an enamel clear coat over my enamel paint? I got confused just writing this! But thanks for any help.
Just finished building the Airfix 1/72 A6M2 and took the plunge with an enamel wash (went dark brown) after watching this tutorial a few times.
it's an absolute game-changer. Great work, Matt!
I’m glad it worked out for you 😊
brilliant video, i'll have to try this at some point - it's true that bottled washes are bloody expensive!!
Modelling Weekly yeah, really expensive 😶
That spitfire looks nice. Thanks for the tutorial, I'll have to try it someday
Let me know how it goes!
Never realised how this worked till now! Thanks for the tutorial!
Happy to help!
nice build
I'm glad you like it
As a model builder for the past fifty years, you give out quick solutions to increase the appearance of the finished model. This is so important to beginners. The general lack of young model builders in North America, is disturbing. I blame video game addiction.
I feel that video games are so much "easier" to get into - scale modelling must look like quite a challenge im comparison - even though it's probably just the same amount of difficulty. I do try and help this hobby out as i really enjoy it, and I hope that people find these videos useful and enjoyable
Young scale modeler here. I find myself putting more money into kits than buying games. I do agree with your statement, as a majority of my peers would rather spend 60 bucks on a new game, than on paints and tools. I guess we all have different priorities.
@@BudahKei c’est la vie
@@BudahKei keep Building!!! I remember my first build back in the mid/late 70's!!!! I'm still building today.... do you post any work????
I found using pencil and then lightly smudging it works really well.
It's another method i have used in the past
How do u smidge it?
@@willthomas9216 with a finger I imagine
@@willthomas9216 what i fo is get some cotton wool.and lightly damp it, then rub it over the pencil lines. It works really well.
@@bodieofci5418 o ok sounds good I’m half way through my Balt and Paul defiant so I’ll give it a try.
fantastic finally some to explain what goes with what ie oil wash with acrylics and acrylic wash with enamelpaint
well done from canada
Glad it was helpful!
Yes that was my first miatake, Acrylic Wash over Acylic Paint! Thanks !@@ModelMinutes
@@alanjacks3835Yes, it can be too "hot" and remove the previous layers if they are the same format
Very nice indeed. You can also use artists oils with white spirits. I tend to use dark brown washes as the black can be a bit too contrasting.
That's another technique i'm looking at developing in the near future
Thanks Matt. Take care
Thanks, you too!
Great work and handy tutorial Matt thankyou !
Glad you liked it! Probably a little "simple" for you though haha!
That spitfire looks great!
Thanks!
Great tutorial Matt! Thanks for sharing this.
My pleasure!
Here where I live I use Bitumen of Judea as a wash. It is cheap and easy diluted. And also I can use it for weathering as well, like war tanks and such.
Sounds like an interesting technique
@@ModelMinutes if you get the chance for testing it, you're a more experienced modelist than I, perhaps you can take the best of this method.
Regards!
@@TheStugbit Thanks!
One question. After watching a couple of your videos I realized that you like keep costs down but why don’t you Never fill in the center seam of your model? It does make a biiiig difference
I didn't do it on this one because it was only meant to be a test bed. Sometimes I simply don't see the point, but to say that I never sand it down would be inaccurate. There are a number of videos out there where I do sand it down, if not on screen, certainly off of it
Very good tutorial. Thanks. One question: Should we apply a coat of matt or gloss finish before applying the wash; if so, what is the recommended base of the coat (acryllic or enamel)?
A gloss varnish will help your wash flow better. It should be the opposite of whatever the wash is (so for enamel wash I would use a gloss acrylic coat as the base)
Great video Matt !!!!!!
Thanks!
Thank you for posting this! I’m definitely going to try this method when I’m finished painting the model that I’m currently working on.
Good luck!
@@ModelMinutesThanks! I’m about to start mixing the wash and applying it now! We’ll see how it goes.
Great idea mate cheers Graham
glad you liked it!
Great trick and good result for a cost-effective solution, thanks for sharing this! by the way, watching some of your builds I've realized that you never use an airbrush (achieving very good results in my opinion with brush technics), is there any particular reason why you don't use one? Thanks!
thanks for watching! My lack of airbrush is simply as I didn't own one at the time - but if you have subscribed with notifications on you may well see some changes soon!
I use satin black in a 1:1 proportion, it works also well
nice!
Great tips Matt. Thanks again for sharing.
No problem!
Nice job looks perfect
Thanks very much!
You might’ve gone over this but chalk washes work as well, chalk also works for a lot of weathering.
Thanks for the info! I'm aware of chalk washes but have never done one
Nice one mate
Thanks 👍
This is gonna help me in my first Gunpla build
awesome!
I bulk-produce tanks and the like to make up toy soldier sets I give away, I use enamels and have two bottles of thinners for cleaning, the first to get the bulk off the second to finish the job. The first bottle soon ends up as a dirty mix and that, applied sparingly with a large brush, makes a very good instant weathering finish. Not sure it'd work well on aircraft though.
sounds like an interesting idea
Cheap, easy to make panel line wash I can make at home...you have my attention...
Great!
Nice vid!
rhats such a great video,thank you for making and sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow, I didn't know you no should use a enamal paints+thinners if your using acrylic paints. I just put slot of water into humbrol Matt 30 cuz I'm poor like that :0. And good video, keep up the good work c:
Thanks for watching
Great advice, thanks. So easy to do.
Glad it was helpful!
Many otherwise careful and excellent modelers use a black wash to fill in panel lines. However, if you observe photos of and actual airplanes that are in regular use, you do not see their panel lines so clearly and they are certainly not black. I suggest that you darken whatever colour you will be using on that surface just a bit and use that to fill the panel lines, etc. The result will be far more realistic.
The same goes for built-up models of fabric-covered airplanes. Too many modelers make the rib stitching and tape pop out too vividly. Go to any airport where fabric-covered airplanes are tied down. Of course, Rhinebeck Aerodome is ideal for this but most small airports have a Cub or something like that sitting around. Look at the airplane, particularly the wing top from a distance in good light, and move in. Take note of when you can actually see the rib stitching. You'll get pretty close up.
Anyway, that's my two pence.
whilst this may be true there will always be an exception
@@ModelMinutes Indeed. Exceptions prove the rule.
Did you ever try artists oil paints (those in tubes) diluted with lighter fluid? Works easy on both acrylic and enamel gloss paints and looks great. Imho the best for panel lines. You can also make some very realistic looking oil stains or other dirt tracks.
At last one layer of flat or semigloss clear to fix.
I've got some oil paints to do some tests on - can't say it's currently one of my go-to techniques at the moment
Thanks for the tips
No problem!
You’re one of my favourite youtubers, you’re honest, you get to the point and you’re helpful. Plus you’re entertaining as provide great content! Keep it up bro! :)
Yay, thank you!
Thank you once again.
My pleasure!
Great video , fabulous work
Thanks! Do you think you’ll use this on any of your models?
@@ModelMinutes I do on quite a lot of my model making already. I'm currently making a short series on painting models which includes a short clip on how not to do it. That model be revived for another video and I'll include it in that I think.
@@StBlazeyModelWorld awesome!
@@ModelMinutes I'm definitely going to watch more your videos soon. saty safe mate
@@StBlazeyModelWorld you too!
In case nobody else has mentioned it, cheap makeup sponges are e better alternative to cotton buds and paper towels both, as there is nothing to flake off.
Good point! I picked up a new set of sponges yesterday :)
Thank you!!! Wonderful.
Thanks for watching!
Gonna give this a bash 👍
hope it goes ok!
Ronsol lighter fluid can also remove enamel wash without hurting the acrylic - just dont rub it too vigorously.
If you use a lacquer clear coat over the model first (gloss) it will improve the flow action and will protect the underlayer of paint in case you make a mistake
thanks for the tip!
Live your videos! I can’t help but notice your background…. Is it a room in the MOD?
Thanks for watching 😊. If it were a room in what I presume you mean the ministry of defence, I don’t think I’d be at liberty to discuss it 😂
Well matt were is you typoon and fiesler?
I’ve not started the Storch yet, but you should see the typhoon build over the next few months
Thank you
You're welcome
That’s spit looks amazing 🍻🇬🇧🇦🇺
Thanks!
Briliant stuff.
Thanks!
Thank you so much this was the video I was looking for I’m doing a remote control car body and I saw a fellow with the same accent you have. Anyways thank you so much really appreciate it I wish I could post pictures with the comments but that isn’t figured out yet Ronaldo panel loans
Glad I could help
I use oil paint with abit of light fluid it can be used on any paint and the fluid doesn't do any damage to the paint or if doing an acrylic its it's normally 70% water 30% paint same with enamel really but the oil wash is best tbh
Thanks! I'm looking at doing some oil paint weathering in the future
thanks for that tutorial 👍
You're welcome 😊 thanks for watching!
If you could have only 1 colour of wash for the rest of you’re time building models what colour would it be?
probably a dark grey . . .
Great video!
Thanks!
I just use artist acrylic water based paint with drop of washing up liquid, if i don't like i can just wash off before it dries.
I've used that on some of my builds too
Do you have to paint and varnish matt first before panel lining or can you do it on bare plastic?
you can do it on bare plastic, not that there is much point if you're going to paint over the top though
Do you use an acrylic gloss or flat clear before applying the wash?
A gloss can be better as it will help encourage the wash to run into the panel lines and details, a matt surface might make the wash just "stick" where it is applied
@@ModelMinutes Should I use a gloss acrylic?
Subscribed. Can we use derwent line marker for highlighting panel lines?
You can, I used fine tipped pens on one of my Hurricanes
@@ModelMinutes thank you sir
Did you do a weathering video??
Not yet
@@ModelMinutes ahh that's why I couldn't find one. Would be rather interested in seeing how you would do it. Saw some chap using chipping solutions and this that and the other .
Hi mat. I paint with acrylics, wouldn't the white spirit bring up the acrylic paint or should I put a vanish on? If so what type?
As you can see in the video, the white spirit didn't react with the acrylic
@@ModelMinutes did you put a matte/gloss cite before?
@@abiparmar I protected the decals with a varnish layer normally - but that was also acrylic (a gloss one will help the panel wash flow into the lines better)
Does this method work with acrylics?
it can, but naturally you will have to use water or another thinning medium, but take care if the wash is being applied to an acrylic paint layer as you could run the risk of removing it if using thinners
So I assume if using acrylic paint for the wash you just use the same sort of quantity of water to thin it down?
Yeah, you can even add a drop of dish soap to reduce the surface tension too. I used this method on my Airfix Churchill if you want to check it out. Just be aware that if the wash dries on the model, you will have to use acrylic thinner to remove the excess as water will not be strong enough to do it
can we just use very diltuted black paint
that's essentially what this is - the enamel wash is super fluid though and runs into all the details. If using acrylic paint for example, some people add a drop of dish soap to break the surface tension when they thin it with water. It really depends on the paint that you want to use and how you thin it
If I paint my model in enamels but apply a layer of varnish afterwards will it be safe to remove excess wash with the white spirits?
Should be, provided you let those paints completely cure and you use a tiny amount of white spirit
@@ModelMinutes alright, thanks
Hi! Ive tried to highlight panel lines on my first build using AK washes and revell color mix thinner. when trying to remove the excess wash i ended up stripping a lot of the surrounding area (hand painted acrylic) through the clear coat down to the plastic before i had removed enough of the wash. what am i doing wrong here?
Sounds like a couple of things could be happening..
The acrylic paint was not 100% cured before you started the washes and the removal of the wash took the paint away.
Something in the Revell Color mix or ak wash reacted with the acrylic paints and removed them (I’m not familiar with them so don’t know their composition)
Physically rubbing too hard and removed the paint through abrasion
if i dont have a white spirits, what would be the alternatives for that?
Enamel thinners
@@ModelMinutes is a lighter fluid would work?
@@ruthlessseven8073 not sure, you would have to try it on a test model
So if I want to do this on a tank painted acrylic I gloss it over with varnish then use an enamel wash then revarnish with acrylic Matt varnish?
If you want. You could use an acrylic wash but you wouldn’t be able to use an acrylic thinner to remove excess because it would also remove the original paint. That’s why I alternate paint types
@@ModelMinutes so white spirit to remove an acrylic wash on acrylic varnish would be ok?
@@elliotgregory3356 no, white spirit removes oil or enamel, you need a specific acrylic thinner or alcoholic thinner for acrylic
Edit: I have known white spirit to remove acrylic on occasion, but usually because it is simply stripping all the paint and not the acrylic specifically
@@ModelMinutes Thank you
How long should i wait before i remove the rest of the wash?
I dont normally wait too long - I generally like to remove it whilst it is still wet. Some enamels, when they dry, become hard to reactivate so to avoid this, removing the excess whilst it is still wet should help
@@ModelMinutes thanks!
Nice
Thanks
In the acrylic wash i dont use white spirit?
Or just water?
white spirit won't dilute acrylic paint as it is not a solvent for that kind of product. White spirit will work on enamel (oil) based paints.
For acrylic you need water or an alcohol based thinner usually
@@ModelMinutes Ok
And if i paint with enamel i need acrylic wash right?
@@matetakacs3769 usually that helps to prevent them from reacting
hey, i hope you can help me with my problem, i tried to make a wash with white spirit and revell enamel email matt black, roughly 1:10, i painted trainer yellow and aluminium humbrol onto spare drop tanks to test, and let the wash i created seep in to panel lines and rivets, but for some reason the acrylic humbrol paint i put on previously started coming off too as i applied to wash, like rubbing off and curling up, would love to know where i went wrong as ive never been good at weathering or using washes
Perhaps the acrylic wasn’t fully cured and the amount of white spirit was too high. It’s very rare I have a reaction but if I do it’s because of that
@@ModelMinutes i let both the humbrol trainer yellow and aluminium cure for 2 hours, i think it was the white spirit,I appreciate the help, thanks
@@ModelMinutes i figured out the problem, for the most part, i over diluted the wash with white spirits alot, and the humbrol alluminum acrylic is a very weak and thin consistency, comes off easily
hiii
Hi!
Do you apply direct to the paint finish or do you varnish - panel line - varnish?
Up to you really. I usually apply a gloss or satin varnish over the paint and decals to protect them, then do my washes, then put a Matt varnish over when the wash is dry
@@ModelMinutes Brilliant thanks for that - will give it a go!
is normal matte varnish enough?
well, i suppose it depends on what you mean by "normal"
@@ModelMinutes thank you
nice
Thanks
I have just begun modeling and are working on limited paints, so I was wondering if acrylic paints could be used in place of enamel paint when making the wash, does it still work?
yeah, as Markus said - you can make your own acrylic wash - pretty sure I did that in my Airfix Churchill build video if you want to take a look
@Markus Der Auslander Thanks for the information, I didn't want to try anything until I was sure, although I had problems trying to find information.
Thank you for the help!
@@ModelMinutes Thank you for the clear up, the Airfix Churchill video was very helpful with washes and weathering as a whole.
I'll have to keep an eye out for more of your videos like that!
@@gwstilly thanks! If you liked that one, the Revell PzKpfw video is probably another good suggestion 😊
Using a calligraphy pen is a great way to apply panel liner and not have the spillover you get with a brush
interesting tip!
What is white spirit
I pinned the answer in the top comment, but for clarity I'll reply here as wel as it has been asked and answered a number of times:
It's a common cleaning product found here in the UK which can be used to thin down enamel paints. It goes by other names in other countries. I found the below information which might be more helpful if you aren't in the UK:
From Wikipedia:
White spirit (AU, UK & Ireland) or mineral spirits (US, Canada), also known as mineral turpentine (AU/NZ), turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting.
Ace 👍🙏
Thanks!
Good demonstration however you should have used a lighter colour for the underside.
I do mention in the video that you can use any colour of enamel paint to make a wash out of. Ultimately though, it’s my model, I’ll build it how I want. Just because you would have used a lighter wash doesn’t mean that I should too. I build for fun, not accuracy
@@ModelMinutes fair enough
Was Rio thanks for your suggestion though
As you said its your creation, the suggestion was made based on authenticity and also to help other viewers. These additional comments will assist on a better understanding for all who approach modelling. I agree, perhaps a different "shade of grey" no punn intended.
Was Rio there are certainly a lot of different shades of grey and no two are the same
Yes I use this too, but it's a fine line (excuse the pun), between not enough and too much. The scale of the model and what time in its service ??? And of course the artists interpretation. Please take no offense but for me the panel lines are too heavy at that scale for that subject. Like I said, that is my opinion which is not in any way gospel. Lol. If it makes you happy then surely that is what is most important.
Thanks! I made this purely as a demonstration piece - you'd be surprised by how many "purists" get upset about it not being "historically accurate" - but that's not the point of the video, it's about showing people different skills
I apply acrylic washes to my models all the time with no bad results. Acrylic washes are an important tool for miniature wargamers like me.
I'm not saying acrylic washes are bad . . .
I keep hearing that your meant to put varnish on before doing panel lines or weathering?... anyone got a solid answer
You don’t have to, but there are benefits of doing it. A gloss or satin varnish before applying a wash will not only protect the decals, but help the wash flow into panel lines. A more flat/Matt surface can prevent this and it will just stay on the surface rather than “running off”. It’s up to you though
And another advantage is that you don't have to keep the wash in one of those damned Humbrol child proof bottles where the lid either gums up solid or else goes round and round clicking merrily away and never releasing the lid! I really hate those things!
True!
Is it Matt or is it Nigel Winterburn......?!!!!!
I don't follow. If you're comparing me to the footballer based off the sound of my voice, i'm not sure we sound alike to be honest. And surely Nigel has more than enough money that he wouldn't need to waste his time making modelling videos
What if you don't have white spirit?
Enamel thinners would work as well
Go to B/M s and buy some
@@davidbeckett1056 😄👍
Don't Indian Inks get used any more . Can you still get it ? It's what I used over 50 years ago also enamel washes and house paint on WW2 tanks and planes. Glad folk still love it but RC has died sadly.
Not sure i'm famliar with that Ink product you refer to - I'm not sure RC has died, from what i can tell there is still a huge fan base for RC models
Hmmm, right from the start we're told about "panel lines that really stand out", that Spitfire wing being a perfect example.
This, in my opinion, is the problem.
Most real aircraft do not have 'panel lines that really stand out'....unless they're really filthy, which most of them just aren't (even WW2 aircraft, it loses speed & it can be dangerous).
I wish people would go & look at real photos & stop looking at the current fashion & other peoples models.
Obviously things like the control surfaces will have a line with a lot of contrast, but panel lines...what are they lifting/separating or something?
In my view light pencil lines & slight colour modulation between panels are all that is needed for a much more realistic look.
I never said this was "Super - realistic". If you look at the title it's "super-easy". If you're watching my channel for realism you're going to be disappointed i'm afraid. I model for fun, with the aim of encouraging new members to the hobby with easy to follow builds and simple tutorials to help guide them on their modelling journey. Realism comes with research into the topic that you are building, which is an entirely personal endeavour and you can choose how much or how little you want to do.
Personally, i don't have a problem that you have a problem with this
@@ModelMinutes thanks for the reply. Of course I accept the adage 'each to to their own' but I thought most of us were trying to create models which accurately (as best we could, accepting we all have different levels of skill) portrayed the subject.
Perhaps not.
@@gixxerman0016 There are many modellers who look to create highly accurate miniatures, and there are a number of models on my channel i like to think as being relatively accurate (i mean I haven't got a mustang with pink polka dots on . . . yet) but at what point do we decide something is accurate and something isn't? Again, that is a matter of individual perspective.
For me, If i'm striving for insane levels of accuracy and realism it starts to sacrifice the fun. The fun and enjoyment is why I do this hobby. When it stops being fun, I stop doing it. After all, this is a hobby isn't it? Each of us is fully within our rights to put as much or as little effort into it as we feel we want to, and no one should be made to feel inadequate or be the subject of negativity just because they don't enjoy certain aspects or have the same motives for building as others
It must be a milk like consistency ... how I explain I haven’t drank milk in 11 years XD 😹
haha
The panel lines are quite bad employed in 1/72 planes---- WHY? BECAUSE The plane needs the most flat surfaces to get the most aerodinamic efficency. Check the real planes, and ull notice they ARE NOT BLACK. THESE LINES ARE JUST A BIT DARKER, DUE TO THE LOW QUANTITY OF DUST AND MAYBE THE SHADOW.
You read the title of the video right? I never said this was meant to be realistic . . . (as mentioned in the video you can pick different colours depending on how much you really care about that stuff)
I don't know why people blacken the panel lines. Real aircraft to not look like that.
some do
And if not, it's just a model
But some do really look like that
Looks like crap.
any suggestion for a better method/solution?
And this isn’t as carcinogenic as Tamiya panel wash!!
MOS6510 Models I can imagine!
I make nearly all my own washes etc...one great example of home made is pigments...I use school poster paint powdered versions...theres hundreds of colours and water based so easy to mix and clean off and once laquered etc they are permanent...500mg of powder paint less than 50p
Great tip!
That's right. Super cheap poster paint
Great tutorial Matt! Altough i prefer oil washes just because they can easily be wiped out without any thinner and oil paints can be used as exhaust stains too and i cant wait for your next build video because the last one with churchill was freaking amazing and enjoyable . ( my personal opinion ofc )
Thanks! I'm looking at getting into some oil paint weathering soon
@@ModelMinutes definitely try them. You can manipulate them as you wish with very realistic result and you don't need to buy any expensive oil paints. I am working now with 2 € oil paints and they are working fine for me!
K J thanks!
I purchased a cheap set of eyeshadow colours from amazon they work really well for weathering too
Good to know!
Thanks for tip...You just saved me £20 - 30 on branded washes...
In the real world, panel lines are not very dark or wide. Something just a shade darker than none at all is more realistic than dark, prominent, obvious lines. Less is best. And not all areas are equal. Flaps, ailerons, stabilizers, etc, and typically oily areas such as engine nacelles, exhaust, and wheel well areas can be a shade or two darker, but not real dark !
There are usually real-world examples for most things
Looks great, next time you do British camo on a plane you should try a brown wash for the panel lines, I've done it on a few wargaming pieces that are using German camo and it looks more subtle but enough to stand out :)
Thanks for the tip!
@@ModelMinutes yeah it seems to suit the green and brown a bit more, and with greys I'll use black, white lighter greys I use a darker grey. It's weird but that's how I do it :) more scale realistic shadow I guess on the underside you could use black on everything bevaisebits naturally going to be darker anyway
@@insomniacbritgaming1632 Great idea :D