Beautifully designed homes Steve, it's a pleasure to watch all of your videos. Absolute perfection. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in building science
Have you ever consider placing the kitchen in the middle with a couple of island to house the stove and sink with no upper cabinets as to not block the view, living on the left and dining on the right to exit to the decks.
Mullions are below eye level when seated while still providing a generous view angle downward. They appear to be well placed and well proportioned to maximize both view and ventilation on a nice day while also providing a psychological “guardrail” for anyone with a fear of heights. This window wall appears to be very well thought out and executed to me.
I'm noticing more people taping their subfloor. Do you think that is best practice and will become standard procedure? Turning your floor into another wrb?
On this house, since you’ve got exterior air below the floor assembly, you need an air/vapor barrier somewhere. I’m curious to see how they treated the kitchen drain pipe and its vent, vs. the insulation, to keep the pipe(s) from freezing.
In general, if you have a basement or a vented crawl space, it's good practice to make your ground floor air tight. The more air tight your building envelope, the better you can control the air condition of your spaces (with ERV, HVAC, etc.).
Why would it matter to seal between the first floor and the basement? It’s all inside the conditioned insulated “sealed box” and there are way too many penetrations (like stairways!) to effectively seal. It should all be interconnected with your ERV system anyway.
Installing a natural insulation material like TimberHP against ZIP R-sheating is *not a good idea*. ZIP R-sheathing is not vapor open enough to do this. The vapor permeability of a ZIP R-sheet is the sum of the vapor permeabilities of the different layers: Poly Iso + OSB + WRB (green or brown stuff). You can get away with it if the R-value of the internal insulation (TimberHP) stays below 50% of the R-value of the exterior insulation (poly iso) (as a rule of thumb). In this case, if the thickness of the TimberHP is about the same as the thickness of the poly iso layer.
I would think with the quality of the WRB and Majrex install, the amount of humidity getting into that wall cavity are minimal. Couple that with a Rolls Royce of ERV's and the humidity in that living space are going to be micro-managed. I wonder if the Majrex is overkill TBH. With a vapor open cavity insulation, it could dry to the inside where the climate is carefully controlled.
@@MrBrianDuga For a comfortable internal living climate, the relative humidity (RH) must be between 40 and 75% at 68°F - 72°F (20 - 22°C). So, it's doesn't matter if you have an ERV or not, you need vapor (moisture) for your living comfort. Yes, the Majrex acts as a vapor and air barrier so the vapor can only reach the insulation layer by diffusion and not by convection (air barrier). But it will reach your insulation layer... and if your insulation is vapor open, the vapor will reach the outer shell of your wall, in this case, the ZIP R-sheathing. And if your outer shell is not vapor open - as in this case - the vapor remains inside the insulation layer. If the outer shell has no or much lesser insulation value then the insulation layer, there's a risk for condensation against the outer shell. If the outer shell is also water tight - like ZIP R-sheathing - the wetness (condensation) will be sucked up by the insulation material, so it's insulation value goes down and you risk mold and rot if your insulation material is biological like TimberHP. If you have cold winters and you want to use ZIP (R) sheathing as your air barrier, you need to install your (additional) insulation at the outside. That's why we in Europe build the other way around... we place our air and vapor barrier on the inside, we fill the cavity with insulation and finish off with a vapor open continuous insulation or a vapor open facade foil.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Beautifully designed homes Steve, it's a pleasure to watch all of your videos. Absolute perfection. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in building science
Have a good Holiday Steve and I am praying for a full recovery of your finger.
Enjoy the Holidays!!!
Love all your videos Steve, learned so much. To you and your family, have a very merry Christmas and happy new year
Hey Buddy - I greatly appreciate your participation in the discussion, always keeping me on my toes. Looking forward to some crazy stuff next year
SB.. thanks and have a great Christmas Day with the family!!
Thank you for joining in
Tape seams of subfloor! Nice
Thanks
Have you ever consider placing the kitchen in the middle with a couple of island to house the stove and sink with no upper cabinets as to not block the view, living on the left and dining on the right to exit to the decks.
I do, but what you see is the client's desire - Check out my "Multigen Project" on the Buildshow - kitchen in the middle, and it works very well
LOOKIN GOOD, liked#18 N Subbed!!!
Yeah buddy........thank you
How do you keep the zenner tubing in the walls from getting penetrated by homeowner added screws / nails?
Take away their screw gun
👍📐Happy Holidays everyone ✌️
Same to you buddy
In the "money room" the horizontal mullions on the large windows hinder the view when you're sitting down.
Mullions are below eye level when seated while still providing a generous view angle downward. They appear to be well placed and well proportioned to maximize both view and ventilation on a nice day while also providing a psychological “guardrail” for anyone with a fear of heights. This window wall appears to be very well thought out and executed to me.
Agreed thank you
Which brand/model are the “money room” windows and slider? Not mentioned in the video.
Schuco UPvc sourced thru European Architectural Supply
What are the dimensions of that living - dining - kitchen room?
Count the sheets of 4’x8’ subfloor.
20X40
I'm noticing more people taping their subfloor. Do you think that is best practice and will become standard procedure? Turning your floor into another wrb?
On this house, since you’ve got exterior air below the floor assembly, you need an air/vapor barrier somewhere. I’m curious to see how they treated the kitchen drain pipe and its vent, vs. the insulation, to keep the pipe(s) from freezing.
In general, if you have a basement or a vented crawl space, it's good practice to make your ground floor air tight.
The more air tight your building envelope, the better you can control the air condition of your spaces (with ERV, HVAC, etc.).
Why would it matter to seal between the first floor and the basement? It’s all inside the conditioned insulated “sealed box” and there are way too many penetrations (like stairways!) to effectively seal. It should all be interconnected with your ERV system anyway.
@@MichaelJ674 Yes, if your basement or crawl space is insulated *and air tight* , air tightness of the ground floor is less important.
It might be just to handle rain during the construction process, to minimize water getting into the end grain of the subfloor.
Installing a natural insulation material like TimberHP against ZIP R-sheating is *not a good idea*.
ZIP R-sheathing is not vapor open enough to do this. The vapor permeability of a ZIP R-sheet is the sum of the vapor permeabilities of the different layers: Poly Iso + OSB + WRB (green or brown stuff).
You can get away with it if the R-value of the internal insulation (TimberHP) stays below 50% of the R-value of the exterior insulation (poly iso) (as a rule of thumb).
In this case, if the thickness of the TimberHP is about the same as the thickness of the poly iso layer.
In CZ 4 this will work just fine.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Maybe in general, but not on cold winter nights.
Steven, maybe you could address this concern in a future video. Thanks and Merry Christmas... 🏡🎄🎁⛄@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431
I would think with the quality of the WRB and Majrex install, the amount of humidity getting into that wall cavity are minimal. Couple that with a Rolls Royce of ERV's and the humidity in that living space are going to be micro-managed. I wonder if the Majrex is overkill TBH. With a vapor open cavity insulation, it could dry to the inside where the climate is carefully controlled.
@@MrBrianDuga For a comfortable internal living climate, the relative humidity (RH) must be between 40 and 75% at 68°F - 72°F (20 - 22°C).
So, it's doesn't matter if you have an ERV or not, you need vapor (moisture) for your living comfort.
Yes, the Majrex acts as a vapor and air barrier so the vapor can only reach the insulation layer by diffusion and not by convection (air barrier).
But it will reach your insulation layer... and if your insulation is vapor open, the vapor will reach the outer shell of your wall, in this case, the ZIP R-sheathing.
And if your outer shell is not vapor open - as in this case - the vapor remains inside the insulation layer. If the outer shell has no or much lesser insulation value then the insulation layer, there's a risk for condensation against the outer shell.
If the outer shell is also water tight - like ZIP R-sheathing - the wetness (condensation) will be sucked up by the insulation material, so it's insulation value goes down and you risk mold and rot if your insulation material is biological like TimberHP.
If you have cold winters and you want to use ZIP (R) sheathing as your air barrier, you need to install your (additional) insulation at the outside.
That's why we in Europe build the other way around... we place our air and vapor barrier on the inside, we fill the cavity with insulation and finish off with a vapor open continuous insulation or a vapor open facade foil.