"You can borrow a sanding stick from your girlfriend or wife...." Bold of you to assume that we have the kind of social skills required to get a girlfriend. XD
I remember (mid70s) when the only 'dedicated' modeling tool I owned was the Xacto #11 knife. everything else, sandpaper, nail files, etc, was just general household stuff. small art brushes.
To apply ca glue, I use a sewing needle that I open up the eye by cutting off the end. I put this in a pin vice. The eye collects a small amount of glue and then capillary action sucks it out. I also disassemble clothes pins (pegs) and assemble them backwards so the flat ends are held together by the spring, making a better clamp.
For supergluing photoetch I used sewing needles with half the eye cut off, one larger one and one small one, these are in pin vise (drill) handles, they work like a tiny old fashion pen tip, they hold a small amount of glue, best part is at the end of the session run a lighter or candle under the tip and the glue burns off and your ready to rock the next session ! Love your channel Martin, you da man !!!!
Hmm, I made a small workstation for photoetch , just a small, round ,hardwood cutting board , double sided taped small squares of fine grit sand paper around the edges , with a square of blue tape double sided , close to center , I find the plastic leaves ridges along the cut lines that can snag delicate pieces your working on wood produces less , and be sanded away Way I cut the photoetch is to lightly draw sharp number 11 along the nibs , close to the part scoring deeper each cut , brass is quite soft , heavy pressure will bend , warp it dress your part square on the taped sandpaper and too clean up the mating surfaces Blue tape is for all the little parts you have cut off , awaiting assembly , I call it my no fly zone
Blu Tack is probably another essential. You can use it to hold parts to sticks/pegs for painting, clean paint clogged sandpaper and use it to assist in test fitting.
Another one for this. So many uses, awkward masking, supporting canopies for polishing but more than anything, holding parts in place for gluing....undercarriage doors etc
Was in the same boat until recently, I tried "Mr. Cement S" and "Mr. Cement SP" (quicker drying and a tad stronger) and that stuff really is awesome. Just hold the halves of whatever together and "paint" along the seamline. The cement will move into the gap and seal them very tightly together. No fuss, no overspill. However, I still do use Revell for really big contact surfaces, no matter how small or big the actual part is.
@@Kilian2 i also use extra thin modelling cement. I have tried mr cement s, however i liked tamiya's extra thin cement quick type a bit more. It is much more versatile than contacta but contacta's slow drying time gives you some time to perfectly allign big pieces or halves.
I use revell glue as well, it's strong and like to use it to reinforce internal structures and to glue big areas, they can even fill some gaps too, they just need more time to dry before sanding is possible... and I got this glue when I buy some cheap model set bargain on ebay I have one old tamiya E T bottle filled with revell glue for a more easy application, revell needle keeps clogging up.
I like the comment about "things you have laying about the house" and "items that you will keep for years". I used to make models in my late teens (mainly planes back then) but then moved away from the hobby as I grew older. Back then though, I used to make my models with my Grandfather. He was retired and a full time modeller, though he mainly built large model railways and fully rigged wooden ships (from the ground up...fully framed and planked and so on. I mean , these were not kits but honest, fully working large scale multi-decked Ships of the Line and Frigates and so on that he build from blueprints. Measuring and cutting the wood to size and carving the intricate parts by hand). He passed away in 1994 and as the family cleared his possessions and so on (the railways were donated to modelling railway societies and many of his ship's blueprints ended up with museums) I however requested his unfinished models and associated paints and boxes of "modelling things" as my inheritance from him. During the Covid lock downs, I started to finish his models and finally looked through the boxes of modelling items. I had looked before but this time I really looked at what was there. I found selections of tweezers, glue applicators, selections of knives (blades and sharpening stones) and small hand held pin drills and so on. Boxes of modelling tools, some purchased God knows when and some hand made. I am so very happy to be finishing his models and using his tools to complete them and its like I'm a teenager again and he is with me. I have even started to buy my own kits and building up a stash of models to work on through winter. Thank you so much for your channel and the videos you provide us. They are brilliant and I know my grandfather would have loved them.
I just thought, dont you want to make "challenge" video, about doing small model with "beginner pack" - five different paints, two cheap brushes and paper knife?
Dude....I love your videos....but can you just get back to building stuff....last couple of videos just seem like you are just talking.....most of us that watch your videos.......build stuff
I save the little plastic bits that my contact lenses come in, for brush painting and holding glue. they are small about the size of a thumb, and the foil cover seals are very useful for making things like seatbelts and straps. Reuse as much as possible.
@@nickdewsnap9859 I've found double-sided tape to be extremely helpful. One side sticks to the table, and the other holds those tiny parts that will disappear if you sneeze! lol
Yep. Along with insulating tape makes great straps and sometimes it helps to back a PE fret with masking tape to hold the part you are cutting.....avoids those ping....fuck moments we all love, usually followed by a forensic sweep of bench and garage floor. Could cut in a poly bag I guess
Yeah...cellotape also nice to used for masking any area you painting that need to be cover. I used this a lot when I paint my model plane when I started modelling in 70s... it's cheap
You know how last summer you took a little modelling break during the vacations... This year you could take that opportunity to do something totally off topic like show off your bike, there were comments about that in other videos... Also you mentioned guitar strings, I'm assuming you play? You look like a guy who plays a bit of guitar, show us your rig!! It could be a good "chill time" video to take a break, clean the slate and get back to modelling after the vacations are over!! Just a thought... Anyways, keep 'em coming!! We love you!!!
Mine was the 1/76 scale Sherman from the airfix d-day assault I bought earlier this month even though I’ve been building model kits for ages now, my second was the tiger from the same kit
Tweezers I do reccomend the expensive “modeling” ones or just thick well made ones with different tips. I had a revlon one at home, worked OKish, bought a cheap set of 4 from the dollar store, absolutely atrocious, didn’t work at all. Bought an excel set worked decent, finally bought a Tamiya fine tweezer. Love that thing. So much better.
I would absolutely like to see another segment on more extensive (expensive?) tools. Then, a primer on the use of these tools would be wonderful. As always, thanks so much for sharing. Steve
Thank you for this great video!! :) I decided to make an index as i find myself trying to remember some products but having to rewatch the entire video (not a bad thing, but also not the best when youre in a hurry haha). I was actually trying to find the brand of black CA glue you use and thought it was in here but actually didnt find it in the video haha. 0:00 Intro 0:20 Picking your first model 0:45 Cutters/ scissors 1:41 Blades 3:31 Sanding 5:28 Tweezers 6:05 Plastic glue/cements 7:37 Clamping 8:19 Super/ CA glue 9:00 Super glue applicator 9:37 Putty/filler 10:18 Putty applicator (the tool you showed is not to expensive and hard to find. Search for clay or wax modelling tools ;) ) 11:02 Drilling 12:54 Cutting mat / cutting surface for PE 13:28 Total price and Outro 15:05 You patreons rock!
Amazing video! I was lucky enough to inherit my granddad’s tools when he moved, So I didn’t have to buy an expensive starter kit. I’m happy you’ve been able to find low budget versions on everything I could possibly need!
My first 2 models where just completed on the weekend, I only had 3 tubes of superglue, a kitchen knife and eyebrow tweezers (the wide tip ones). And it worked perfect. Cost $4 aud so like 2 euros.
Wonderful video mate, As a 40yr veteran scale modeller I was curious as to what you'd recommend and I believe you got it just right. Not to few tools, not to many but spot on. Only wish there was UA-cam and good advice like this 40 years ago for oh I don't know.. Maybe a 10 year old kid growing up on a tiny tropical island in North Queensland Australia with only 1500 residents, 2 pubs, 1 small grocery story and a post office.
My favorite cement has to be Tamiya's limonene cement. It does dry pretty slowly, but it's not a war crime against nostrils like the green bottle version. For superglue my favorite applicator is a thin syringe needle. A luxury tool that I find really useful is reverse action tweezers.
I’ve used the same nail clipper to cut the sprues for 45+ years. It’s snips the sprue close enough to where you only need a cursory swipe with a nail buffer. I “borrowed” some stuff from my sisters make-up equipment.
What an excellent Primer for people starting out, but it's good to see what you use and recommend. I'm fairly new to the hobby and have learnt heaps from you and Plasmo. I'm truly grateful that you take time to show excellent work and how we can achieve similar results. Thanks Uncle!
I only use manicure tools for cutting, as for paint, i use standard acrylic spray paints or the ones on metal buckets that needs to be diluted with lacquer thinner
i build gunpla mostly where the kits snap fit tightly together, and one of the most essential tools i have and would recommend to anyone is a little nylon spudger. its a rod of nylon with pointed ends to help separate parts and such, but i use it for much more than that. Manipulating decals, removing plastic burrs from sanding, all sorts of things. Cost a few dollars from an electronics shop and is incredibly handy
For sprue cutters I use flush cut nippers commonly used in electronics and electrical construction where the wire and cable ties have to be cut flat. Super cheap, like $7. I probably use files more than sand paper. A cheap set of mini files is about $10 at places like Harbour freight. I by my #11 hobby knife blades in lots of 300 online for less than $20. I also go through a box of 100 single edge razor blades a year. For fine sanding sponges I go to autobody supply stores where they are $4 for a 6 inch square pad.
Great tips. I think the addition of needle files should be added to the list. Especially, if you are working with 3D printed models. Like the R2D2 I'm currently working on. Needle files get into detailed places where a hobby knife isn't feesible. Nice video.
Im thinking of restarting modelling again after a break of some fifty odd year. These videos are very helpfull as im bemused at the amount of stuff you can bye, a lot different to when i last modelled.
I use a curved nail chopper for the spruces and it is handy to use for diorama . Otherwise I must say I agree with all what was said and will try out that Mr Glue next time. Thanks for all your great videos, I’m learning tons of stuff about all the things that didn’t exist when I was a child and how they should and could be used. Like the casted armor surface . Been doing this for two years and my models looks so much better after taken your advises not mentioning the inspiration and humor you out in. Thanks for every thing Uncle Nightshift!
I just added a whole pile of new hemostats, tweezers, etc. Managed to slice the crap out of myself, needed 6 stitches. The hospital has to throw away the suture kit once it's been opened, so I insisted that it was coming home with me.
I really like these new : beginner / how to / preference video. That is really why i sticked to your channel in the first place : cause you are always why you are doing this and not that, how to use things and all. That is really helpfull for beginners or just people wanting to learn new things of the hobby and all. I hope there will be more video like that in the future, like some good beginner model / brands and things like that. Continue the great work and can't wait to be next week !
Very good ideas, Uncle Night Shift. Recently I had to replace my Tamiya sprue cutters. They lasted 20+ years, so no complaints. I replaced them with a set of electronics side cutters meant for doing small soldering jobs. They appear to be EXACT copies of the Tamiya's. Got them for $6 US off Amazon. Another thing I have done is to buy medical scapels to augment the standard hobby knife. Much finer cuts. They are less than one would think. I got a handle and 7 blades for about $7 US. Again off Amazon. The thing to do, is just keep an open mind. Just because it isn't meant for modeling; doesn't mean it can't be repurposed for it. Use your imagination and you would be surprised at what you can use.
I use surgical scalpel blades and handles, but I resharpen my dull blades when needed to cut waste. I also use wet&dry papers wet, because they are washable and reusable and flexible, and they come in many grades. I have a set of warding files for odd shapes too, but I need to buy a micro saw for cutting straight lines. I used to have cement in a bottle with a needle applicator, but I can’t find a replacement any more. Blue tack is also useful for supporting parts for painting.
Great job!. Add some short samples on how to use each tool can be used or how you use them. Also, a video on what you would look for and at, when you review other modellers work. How do you personally assess other models?
Your list is the typical tool list of military modellers. I do also Wargaming, and since then I learned about Green Stuff. You can do a lot with this 2 component compound, I wish I had Green Stuff 30 years ago. I used Tamiya putty back then, but it takes so long to dry. I also find it difficult to shape after drying.
Cutting: Side cutters are great, I don't use a particularly fancy one either, altho I'm kinda tempted by fancy tools. I have 2 surgical scalpels (no.4 and no.3 Handle) with those blades that you have to click into place, mostly because I found these kinds of blades to be more securely mounted and also cheaper. Sanding: Sanding sticks are great, I only use sanding paper for really big things (like larger fdm prints) since they are way cheaper, than sanding sponges. I'm also using very thin files, that were originally bought by my dad in east Germany. Tweezers are a must have, but I always seem to loose mine somewhere, idk. I should probably get a pair of good ones once, so I hold on to them longer. Cements: I've been searching for a cement, that I like for a long time. I did use the thin Revell cement for quite a bit, but I wasn't that satisfied with it, I'll give Mr.Cement S a try. I haven't had great experiences with brush applicators and therefore stuck with the needle applicators, maybe you could mix the needle applicator with a very thin glue, might also be a thing I'd try. I have always been using grocery store grade superglue and toothpick combo. I absolutely can't stand the gel kind of super glue though, it's just awful to work with imo. Puttys: Tamiya Basic putty all day for me too. I've tried a bunch out, including Revell and a few others, but I've always returned to Tamiya. I've always used old short hobby blades for application, and I'm doing that since my dad taught me how to do it, when I was 6 years old or so. Drills: I've scooped up a hand drill for a very low price somewhere, it's not great, but it does it's job decently. For bigger model modifications, I use a Proxxon Micromot 50/E (the same one, that Plasmo uses iirc) it's light and easy to handle and isn't that expensive. That extra PE cutting pad is a great idea, thanks for that.
Super glue tip: Get a jar - a condiment jar will work. Fill it half full of dry rice. Keep your superglue in there with the lid on. Superglue cures in the presence of moisture. That's why it gets thick or goes bad so fast - the moisture in the air causes it to cure, and as soon as you open the tube, the process starts, and superglue lids are not air tight. A closed jar full of rice doesn't have any moisture. Bonus feature: you can store the super glue upside down so that the glue is always near the top.
I have found that a set of mini files is probably the most useful tool set for safe & precise removal of sprue gates & surface irregularities from plastic model parts, particularly on locations that need fit improvement. I've used the files for several different applications; hobby, auto, & general purpose machine repairs.
Anytime I see an expensive miniature tool, I'm like "hardware store" it will have the same and better stuff at a cheaper price and is well better made. When a company is in a specialisation market the price always gets jacked up. Hell I got a set of different twezzers from a local euro store had 3 different ones in it and was 1.50 or 2 euro, id pay that over the 12 euro ones in a box that says "miniature"
depends on what you doing. I am an optician, I make glasses, and I can tell, specialised tools for my work are better (wear and tear, quality, weight, etc.). For few uses or some beginner levels, you don't need such tools, but if you spend 10 hours daily making and fixing glasses, well, you notice. Also, I do have "self" made tools, like this guy - a stick for glue, paper clips for fixating flex mechanisms. But I do agree, in most cases, for consumer level use, not really a point to overpay. I have cheap screw drivers at home that I uses from time to time, and I have very, very expensive ones at work and not a single chip or wear and tear after years of use.
Absolutely, when I first started a few months ago I made the ridiculous mistake of going to Hobby Lobby…. $375 later I thought I had most of what I needed. Next day, at the dollar store, I find literally 75%+ of the items for 10%-20% the price. I was…. PISSED.
I'm not sure if it'll work well on armor models but when I build gunpla I've found myself almost exclusively using a $6 glass nail file i got off Amazon for sanding. As long as you control your pressure it it completely removes nub marks without any real damage to the plastic. Then I polish with a 3200 grit sanding sponge and it comes out wonderfully. Keeps the clear parts nice and pristine!
Great information for basic modeling tools and tips. I found your video to be helpful and useful. There are so many esoteric brands and options available on the market, it can be difficult knowing what to select sometimes. I think with the US economy being in its current situation, demonstrating that money can be saved by augmenting your tool purchases with improvised, more economical, ad hoc products. Thank you for sharing. Cheers!
Did you mention tweezers? An absolute must-have. Also, anyone coming back to the hobby after a long, long break might want to buy a magnifying visor - I couldn't build anything without them!
Probably already something most of you know, but a lot of model railroad shows/swap meets have tool dealers there. Also a good source for scenery materials, regardless of scale.
My tip, if like me you've bought many, many Revell 1/72 aircraft kits in starter packs and wound up with a ton of those Contacta tubes things is to empty them into an old Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr. Cement bottle and use with the little brush! Less mess all round, and saves space too!
Great video, very informative. I've got a few store bought sanding sticks but mostly I make own by gluing sand paper on to pop-sickle sticks with spray adhesive. It's very cheap and if I need a rounded one I can make it with dowel or some other shaped piece of wood.
I use small plastic cups (for shots) and sticky tack, to fix certain parts that I want to paint separately in good painting position, or are hard to paint when holding the parts. And it is great for painting minifigures, instead of dedicated (and pricy) dedicated holder. Both sticky tack and cups are cheap, and depending on the tack and how you handle the cups, you can use it more than once.
i have been modelling for 2 years now, only a month ago i bought my second bottle of tamiya extra thin. (i made more or less 10/15 models in that time)
Great vid. Not new to modelling but returning. Blu tac and toothpicks should be made a legal requirement. Real multi tools. I also have several small flexible poly glue spreaders (sometimes come with tubes of glue). Cut more narrow they can be great for squeegeeing filler into gaps
For Americans with very expensive dentists' appointments, Harbor Freight sells sets of dentists' "pusher tools" for putty as "PITTSBURGH Stainless Steel Carving Set, 6 Pc." and "pick tools" as "PITTSBURGH Hook & Pick Set, 6 Pc."
Hey Uncle… been watching your video’s for a few years now and came across this as I don’t actually scale model right now but something I am looking at getting into. Just haven’t taken the plunge yet, but would like to see more of a tutorial on basics if this is something you’d be interested in………Yes I know before everybody jumps on the band wagon saying there are loads of other videos out there.. I just really like you’re humour and style of work and would rather see you’re video tutorial…… Dan from UK (England)…..
Martin, Vaše posledné videá sa mi naozaj veľmi páčia, veľmi dobrá práca, snáď Vás neurazí, že je to najmä kvôli minimálnemu množstvu sarkazmu. Ďakujem i za fajn tipy. Teším sa na ďalšie Vaše videá.
Always interesting to see your recommendations. I am new to scratchbuilding and am interested in handling small parts, how to square off cut ends and placing and aligning small pieces. Do you have a video on this topic? Thanks
Nice one as usual. 1. I use tamiya extra thin for most things and revell one in places with big surfaces or for exsample to join the tank hull parts. 2. Sometimes I use hobby knife to cut. And there is good chance to fing good pair of sprue cutters in presision instruments shop. I got mine there. But thats just an option. 3. Dont forget about hair bands. U have them I bet, as I do ( same haircut stile, by the way). I use them when I glue hul parts or plane bodies together. So yeah, here is my 5 cents about this ... 😂
Nice info! Just a point to mention regarding the Tamiya " Basic putty" grey; It also sinks in a little after or while drying so adding a little more to make a bulge and then sanding away helps to counter this. This however does not always work especially if you have a very uneven surface with random textured detail. None the less a very essential tool.
What I would really like to see is a tutorial on how to work with photoetch. You want to really impress and educate, build the 1/48 Fiesler Storch with photoetch details. Just looking at the cockpit details intimidates me.
Good video.. only tool I'd like to see actually made into production is the weld seam tool. It is bar nine the best little tool I've learn to make. All thanks to Nightshift!
I use Pringle lids for super glue. The plastic is soft enough the it’s easy to make a small depression with the end of the handle of a needle file or a paintbrush, which makes a perfect spot to deposit a small puddle of the thin types of super glue. The cool thing is that when you’re done and the leftover glue dries, it very easily peels right off. One Pringle lid will last ages. For application to the model, I use beading type of wire that they use to make jewelry. It comes in different gauges which is handy. I take a small length and use smooth jaw pliers and I squish one end and then I take the squished end and I fold that into a V shape down the length and when I dip it in the glue it’ll draw up a nice little bead for precision deposits. If I want to put on more glue I use thicker wire for less I use thinner wire. It’s my own little system I came up with years ago. Try it.
Hi, just a quick tip, instead of buying Tamiya quick cement ~5€ for 40ml, you can buy in some hardware shop butyl acetate it's the exact same formula and cost depending of the country around 15€ for 1L
One of the best purchases I've made in terms of tools was a random gundam/modeling set which was just a bunch of different sanders/files, a hobby knife, a pair of nippers and some nice tweezers. Don't think the whole thing cost more than 15€, shipping included. Of course I forgot to get cement so that was a fun month of having a model and not being able to do anything with it :v
I do all my modeling on a sheet of (clear) plexiglass. Bought at a home store and cut to the size of my desktop with a box cutter. You can cut on it, use it as a paint pallet, and spill glue or paint on it, and wipe it off. Easily replaced, about once a year, with a new, clean one... And it protects your desktop, which might help save your marriage...
For cutting PE i use a old piece of smooth bathroom tile, as you get a nice clean cut on the edge then i use Tamiya's diamond file for PE if i need to clean it up :)
FWIW, I'm new to the hobby, but I've got 30 years of experience in adjacent hobbies (miniatures and terrain.) After years of using Xacto knives (which are basiclly mass-market scalpels marketed to hobbyists), I went to the source: I started working with actual scalpels. I picked up a professional scalpel handle (which was cheap) and a pack of replaceable blades. I haven't touched my Xacto since. They're sharper than Xacto blades, hands-down. The blades are also a lot cheaper ('marketed to hobbyists' generally means high prices.) They're slightly more flexible, which can be both good and bad. They're thinner, more prices, and give cleaner, thinner, neater cuts. The only downside is that they dull a little quicker (but not that much quicker.) For tougher materials - like metals - I'd stick with the Xacto. But for regular use, I love my scalpels.
"You can borrow a sanding stick from your girlfriend or wife...."
Bold of you to assume that we have the kind of social skills required to get a girlfriend. XD
Just make sure your wife doesn't find out about her. ^^
@@fatdad64able damn..... XD
Lots of modellers do the hobby until they discover girls.. than after they've been married a while... they come back to modelling 😂
Hahaha
Wait until you get one and use her file... woah doggy.
Lesson learned: any tool with "modelling dedicated" costs at least twice as much
Not just modeling tools. A simple Sharpie marker at office supply store- $1.29. Same marker ;labeled "photo marker" at a photo store - $3.69. 😑
*"Gaming" products entered the chat*
I remember (mid70s) when the only 'dedicated' modeling tool I owned was the Xacto #11 knife. everything else, sandpaper, nail files, etc, was just general household stuff. small art brushes.
I dunno man. The girlfriend/wife that comes with the emery boards is pretty expensive.
*Cries in bike specific tools*
Ok oncle, we want to see now how you USE this tools. We need a next masterpiece to wonder how tf it looks so good...
To apply ca glue, I use a sewing needle that I open up the eye by cutting off the end. I put this in a pin vice. The eye collects a small amount of glue and then capillary action sucks it out.
I also disassemble clothes pins (pegs) and assemble them backwards so the flat ends are held together by the spring, making a better clamp.
There are also small clothes pins.
Staples from the bags containing sprues work well too
I really appreciate that he actually goes into a bit of detail on why and how you should use these things, very well done!
For supergluing photoetch I used sewing needles with half the eye cut off, one larger one and one small one, these are in pin vise (drill) handles, they work like a tiny old fashion pen tip, they hold a small amount of glue, best part is at the end of the session run a lighter or candle under the tip and the glue burns off and your ready to rock the next session ! Love your channel Martin, you da man !!!!
One of my favorite items I tend to use allot...A good 6" steel ruler! Providing a nice straight edge for any type cutting, tape, PE etc.
Or a collection of different lengths plus a couple of triangles. 30/60 and 45. Eventually you can expand to templates and French curves.
I use old CD/DVD discs instead of cutting mat for PE parts.
Same
@@j.yde.n Same
Hmm, I made a small workstation for photoetch , just a small, round ,hardwood cutting board ,
double sided taped small squares of fine grit sand paper around the edges , with a
square of blue tape double sided , close to center ,
I find the plastic leaves ridges along the cut lines that can snag delicate pieces your working on
wood produces less , and be sanded away
Way I cut the photoetch is to lightly draw sharp number 11 along the nibs , close to the part
scoring deeper each cut , brass is quite soft , heavy pressure will bend , warp it
dress your part square on the taped sandpaper and too clean up the mating surfaces
Blue tape is for all the little parts you have cut off , awaiting assembly , I call it my no fly zone
@@jamesgathings6364 I don't know how to model at all lol I just reply to random comments I see with "Same" once in a while
I just use a table cover over my table for cutting things
Blu Tack is probably another essential. You can use it to hold parts to sticks/pegs for painting, clean paint clogged sandpaper and use it to assist in test fitting.
Another one for this. So many uses, awkward masking, supporting canopies for polishing but more than anything, holding parts in place for gluing....undercarriage doors etc
Im 73 and just returning to modelling. You are a real joy :)
Until the day I die, I will keep defending revell contacta. I find it really useful for gluing big parts, like hull halves and big armored plates.
Was in the same boat until recently, I tried "Mr. Cement S" and "Mr. Cement SP" (quicker drying and a tad stronger) and that stuff really is awesome. Just hold the halves of whatever together and "paint" along the seamline. The cement will move into the gap and seal them very tightly together. No fuss, no overspill.
However, I still do use Revell for really big contact surfaces, no matter how small or big the actual part is.
@@Kilian2 i also use extra thin modelling cement. I have tried mr cement s, however i liked tamiya's extra thin cement quick type a bit more. It is much more versatile than contacta but contacta's slow drying time gives you some time to perfectly allign big pieces or halves.
I use revell glue as well, it's strong and like to use it to reinforce internal structures and to glue big areas, they can even fill some gaps too, they just need more time to dry before sanding is possible... and I got this glue when I buy some cheap model set bargain on ebay I have one old tamiya E T bottle filled with revell glue for a more easy application, revell needle keeps clogging up.
My needle snapped so I can’t use it
@@pepemister7592 you can decant it into a bottle and use a toothpick to put the glue on the desired surface.
I used to use nail clippers instead of side cutters.
Great video!
Yep, nail clippers are a top notch idea!
Best thing are those inverted tweezers wich hold automatically without you touching and open if you press it
They're definitely worth the money!
I’ve been in this hobby for about a year and I used a lot Tamiya extra thin cement and I like it.
Yeah same
I like the comment about "things you have laying about the house" and "items that you will keep for years". I used to make models in my late teens (mainly planes back then) but then moved away from the hobby as I grew older.
Back then though, I used to make my models with my Grandfather. He was retired and a full time modeller, though he mainly built large model railways and fully rigged wooden ships (from the ground up...fully framed and planked and so on. I mean , these were not kits but honest, fully working large scale multi-decked Ships of the Line and Frigates and so on that he build from blueprints. Measuring and cutting the wood to size and carving the intricate parts by hand). He passed away in 1994 and as the family cleared his possessions and so on (the railways were donated to modelling railway societies and many of his ship's blueprints ended up with museums) I however requested his unfinished models and associated paints and boxes of "modelling things" as my inheritance from him.
During the Covid lock downs, I started to finish his models and finally looked through the boxes of modelling items. I had looked before but this time I really looked at what was there. I found selections of tweezers, glue applicators, selections of knives (blades and sharpening stones) and small hand held pin drills and so on. Boxes of modelling tools, some purchased God knows when and some hand made. I am so very happy to be finishing his models and using his tools to complete them and its like I'm a teenager again and he is with me. I have even started to buy my own kits and building up a stash of models to work on through winter.
Thank you so much for your channel and the videos you provide us. They are brilliant and I know my grandfather would have loved them.
I just thought, dont you want to make "challenge" video, about doing small model with "beginner pack" - five different paints, two cheap brushes and paper knife?
This is a great idea! I’d love to see it
Very cool idea bro
Model minutes on UA-cam just did this lol
Dude....I love your videos....but can you just get back to building stuff....last couple of videos just seem like you are just talking.....most of us that watch your videos.......build stuff
@@markcope6303 you realize videos like these are supposed to help more people build stuff
I save the little plastic bits that my contact lenses come in, for brush painting and holding glue. they are small about the size of a thumb, and the foil cover seals are very useful for making things like seatbelts and straps. Reuse as much as possible.
wait... you're telling me you used a pair of scissors to cut pieces off sprues for 20 years...
They work very good tho, I have a very similair pair and they work great!
I don't think so...despite we all started with them.
@@ZEONesp I started off twisting parts out
*Even if i'm an experimented modeler i like this kind of video with cheap prices, 👍👍👍*
Sprue goo ( sprue dissolved in glue) is also a must at no cost
Good video! I think masking tape is good thing for beginners. You can use for holding the parts while gluing:)
Also good for holding small parts for airbrushing. Jerry cans for example.
@@nickdewsnap9859 I've found double-sided tape to be extremely helpful. One side sticks to the table, and the other holds those tiny parts that will disappear if you sneeze! lol
Yep. Along with insulating tape makes great straps and sometimes it helps to back a PE fret with masking tape to hold the part you are cutting.....avoids those ping....fuck moments we all love, usually followed by a forensic sweep of bench and garage floor. Could cut in a poly bag I guess
Yeah...cellotape also nice to used for masking any area you painting that need to be cover. I used this a lot when I paint my model plane when I started modelling in 70s... it's cheap
Don’t know how he gets accurate details on his models when he moves around so much
Damn he’s expressive af 😂😂😂😂
You know how last summer you took a little modelling break during the vacations... This year you could take that opportunity to do something totally off topic like show off your bike, there were comments about that in other videos... Also you mentioned guitar strings, I'm assuming you play? You look like a guy who plays a bit of guitar, show us your rig!! It could be a good "chill time" video to take a break, clean the slate and get back to modelling after the vacations are over!! Just a thought... Anyways, keep 'em coming!! We love you!!!
My first tank is a 1:35 scale M48 by Revell. Probably not the best starter for me but I think it turned out well for me
Mine was a Gepard from Tamiya which was pretty ok Back then i cut Out The decals because i didnt know i could place then in water
Always a good start.
Mine was old airfix sherman
Mine was the 1/76 scale Sherman from the airfix d-day assault I bought earlier this month even though I’ve been building model kits for ages now, my second was the tiger from the same kit
Tweezers I do reccomend the expensive “modeling” ones or just thick well made ones with different tips. I had a revlon one at home, worked OKish, bought a cheap set of 4 from the dollar store, absolutely atrocious, didn’t work at all. Bought an excel set worked decent, finally bought a Tamiya fine tweezer. Love that thing. So much better.
Hey uncle Night Shift, just passing to say hi and see the video. Cheerssssss
Just got back into modeling after 40 years and have learned a lot of things from watching your videos. Thank you.
I would absolutely like to see another segment on more extensive (expensive?) tools. Then, a primer on the use of these tools would be wonderful.
As always, thanks so much for sharing.
Steve
Great tips for beginners - starting simple and building up tools slowly from the basics.
Thank you for this great video!! :)
I decided to make an index as i find myself trying to remember some products but having to rewatch the entire video (not a bad thing, but also not the best when youre in a hurry haha). I was actually trying to find the brand of black CA glue you use and thought it was in here but actually didnt find it in the video haha.
0:00 Intro
0:20 Picking your first model
0:45 Cutters/ scissors
1:41 Blades
3:31 Sanding
5:28 Tweezers
6:05 Plastic glue/cements
7:37 Clamping
8:19 Super/ CA glue
9:00 Super glue applicator
9:37 Putty/filler
10:18 Putty applicator (the tool you showed is not to expensive and hard to find. Search for clay or wax modelling tools ;) )
11:02 Drilling
12:54 Cutting mat / cutting surface for PE
13:28 Total price and Outro
15:05 You patreons rock!
Amazing video! I was lucky enough to inherit my granddad’s tools when he moved, So I didn’t have to buy an expensive starter kit. I’m happy you’ve been able to find low budget versions on everything I could possibly need!
My first 2 models where just completed on the weekend, I only had 3 tubes of superglue, a kitchen knife and eyebrow tweezers (the wide tip ones). And it worked perfect. Cost $4 aud so like 2 euros.
Wonderful video mate,
As a 40yr veteran scale modeller I was curious as to what you'd recommend and I believe you got it just right.
Not to few tools, not to many but spot on.
Only wish there was UA-cam and good advice like this 40 years ago for oh I don't know.. Maybe a 10 year old kid growing up on a tiny tropical island in North Queensland Australia with only 1500 residents, 2 pubs, 1 small grocery story and a post office.
My favorite cement has to be Tamiya's limonene cement. It does dry pretty slowly, but it's not a war crime against nostrils like the green bottle version. For superglue my favorite applicator is a thin syringe needle. A luxury tool that I find really useful is reverse action tweezers.
I thought the green lid glue smelled bad.. then i used the spray clear coat ☠
Blue Tak ( or Blue Tack) - good for holding and placing photo etch and securing for soldering .- it's "pretty ok".
And for cutting those teeny tiny plastic parts (lifting hooks on an old Italeri Panzer IV), stops them flying off across the room. :-)
Thanks Uncle, enjoy your weekend!
I hope there's a model next week
I’ve used the same nail clipper to cut the sprues for 45+ years. It’s snips the sprue close enough to where you only need a cursory swipe with a nail buffer. I “borrowed” some stuff from my sisters make-up equipment.
I haven’t built a Proper kit but this is really gonna help me
What an excellent Primer for people starting out, but it's good to see what you use and recommend. I'm fairly new to the hobby and have learnt heaps from you and Plasmo. I'm truly grateful that you take time to show excellent work and how we can achieve similar results. Thanks Uncle!
I only use manicure tools for cutting, as for paint, i use standard acrylic spray paints or the ones on metal buckets that needs to be diluted with lacquer thinner
i build gunpla mostly where the kits snap fit tightly together, and one of the most essential tools i have and would recommend to anyone is a little nylon spudger. its a rod of nylon with pointed ends to help separate parts and such, but i use it for much more than that. Manipulating decals, removing plastic burrs from sanding, all sorts of things. Cost a few dollars from an electronics shop and is incredibly handy
Thanks your the reason I joined the model community
Thank you for the tips. Really enjoying your builds.
For sprue cutters I use flush cut nippers commonly used in electronics and electrical construction where the wire and cable ties have to be cut flat. Super cheap, like $7. I probably use files more than sand paper. A cheap set of mini files is about $10 at places like Harbour freight. I by my #11 hobby knife blades in lots of 300 online for less than $20. I also go through a box of 100 single edge razor blades a year. For fine sanding sponges I go to autobody supply stores where they are $4 for a 6 inch square pad.
Great tips. I think the addition of needle files should be added to the list. Especially, if you are working with 3D printed models. Like the R2D2 I'm currently working on. Needle files get into detailed places where a hobby knife isn't feesible. Nice video.
Im thinking of restarting modelling again after a break of some fifty odd year. These videos are very helpfull as im bemused at the amount of stuff you can bye, a lot different to when i last modelled.
I use a curved nail chopper for the spruces and it is handy to use for diorama . Otherwise I must say I agree with all what was said and will try out that Mr Glue next time. Thanks for all your great videos, I’m learning tons of stuff about all the things that didn’t exist when I was a child and how they should and could be used. Like the casted armor surface . Been doing this for two years and my models looks so much better after taken your advises not mentioning the inspiration and humor you out in. Thanks for every thing Uncle Nightshift!
What a great video for new modellers I use a wall tile for mixing paint I clean after use good as new.
I love your channel! I have been getting a lot of info and great techniques on how to detail and paint.
Thank you for your very useful and informative tips, especially for me as a beginner 👍👌
I just added a whole pile of new hemostats, tweezers, etc. Managed to slice the crap out of myself, needed 6 stitches. The hospital has to throw away the suture kit once it's been opened, so I insisted that it was coming home with me.
uncle NS pls, start a new model. maybe one with full interior. you can talk about the tools while building ;)
More 1/72 models, please!
I really like these new : beginner / how to / preference video.
That is really why i sticked to your channel in the first place : cause you are always why you are doing this and not that, how to use things and all. That is really helpfull for beginners or just people wanting to learn new things of the hobby and all.
I hope there will be more video like that in the future, like some good beginner model / brands and things like that.
Continue the great work and can't wait to be next week !
Very good ideas, Uncle Night Shift. Recently I had to replace my Tamiya sprue cutters. They lasted 20+ years, so no complaints. I replaced them with a set of electronics side cutters meant for doing small soldering jobs. They appear to be EXACT copies of the Tamiya's. Got them for $6 US off Amazon. Another thing I have done is to buy medical scapels to augment the standard hobby knife. Much finer cuts. They are less than one would think. I got a handle and 7 blades for about $7 US. Again off Amazon. The thing to do, is just keep an open mind. Just because it isn't meant for modeling; doesn't mean it can't be repurposed for it. Use your imagination and you would be surprised at what you can use.
I use surgical scalpel blades and handles, but I resharpen my dull blades when needed to cut waste. I also use wet&dry papers wet, because they are washable and reusable and flexible, and they come in many grades. I have a set of warding files for odd shapes too, but I need to buy a micro saw for cutting straight lines. I used to have cement in a bottle with a needle applicator, but I can’t find a replacement any more. Blue tack is also useful for supporting parts for painting.
100% agree, out of all the tools I have, these are the ones I use. The rest not so much.
Great job!. Add some short samples on how to use each tool can be used or how you use them. Also, a video on what you would look for and at, when you review other modellers work. How do you personally assess other models?
Your list is the typical tool list of military modellers. I do also Wargaming, and since then I learned about Green Stuff. You can do a lot with this 2 component compound, I wish I had Green Stuff 30 years ago. I used Tamiya putty back then, but it takes so long to dry. I also find it difficult to shape after drying.
Thanks for the info - having an overview of the basic tools lowers the hurdle to start modeling quite a bit!
Cutting: Side cutters are great, I don't use a particularly fancy one either, altho I'm kinda tempted by fancy tools.
I have 2 surgical scalpels (no.4 and no.3 Handle) with those blades that you have to click into place, mostly because I found these kinds of blades to be more securely mounted and also cheaper.
Sanding: Sanding sticks are great, I only use sanding paper for really big things (like larger fdm prints) since they are way cheaper, than sanding sponges. I'm also using very thin files, that were originally bought by my dad in east Germany.
Tweezers are a must have, but I always seem to loose mine somewhere, idk. I should probably get a pair of good ones once, so I hold on to them longer.
Cements: I've been searching for a cement, that I like for a long time. I did use the thin Revell cement for quite a bit, but I wasn't that satisfied with it, I'll give Mr.Cement S a try. I haven't had great experiences with brush applicators and therefore stuck with the needle applicators, maybe you could mix the needle applicator with a very thin glue, might also be a thing I'd try.
I have always been using grocery store grade superglue and toothpick combo. I absolutely can't stand the gel kind of super glue though, it's just awful to work with imo.
Puttys: Tamiya Basic putty all day for me too. I've tried a bunch out, including Revell and a few others, but I've always returned to Tamiya. I've always used old short hobby blades for application, and I'm doing that since my dad taught me how to do it, when I was 6 years old or so.
Drills: I've scooped up a hand drill for a very low price somewhere, it's not great, but it does it's job decently. For bigger model modifications, I use a Proxxon Micromot 50/E (the same one, that Plasmo uses iirc) it's light and easy to handle and isn't that expensive.
That extra PE cutting pad is a great idea, thanks for that.
I'm just starting out. This was very helpful. More videos like this would be great for beginners who watch your channel.
hyped to see part 2 :)
Interesting and helpful. Waiting for the next instalment uncle. Maybe something on brushes. 🏴
THANKS.
GREAT VIDEO!
MODEL MASTER BLADES SEEM THE SHARPEST OF ALL I'VE TESTED.
Super glue tip: Get a jar - a condiment jar will work. Fill it half full of dry rice. Keep your superglue in there with the lid on. Superglue cures in the presence of moisture. That's why it gets thick or goes bad so fast - the moisture in the air causes it to cure, and as soon as you open the tube, the process starts, and superglue lids are not air tight. A closed jar full of rice doesn't have any moisture. Bonus feature: you can store the super glue upside down so that the glue is always near the top.
Pog time!
I finished my is2 and diorama I made
I have found that a set of mini files is probably the most useful tool set for safe & precise removal of sprue gates & surface irregularities from plastic model parts, particularly on locations that need fit improvement. I've used the files for several different applications; hobby, auto, & general purpose machine repairs.
Anytime I see an expensive miniature tool, I'm like "hardware store" it will have the same and better stuff at a cheaper price and is well better made. When a company is in a specialisation market the price always gets jacked up. Hell I got a set of different twezzers from a local euro store had 3 different ones in it and was 1.50 or 2 euro, id pay that over the 12 euro ones in a box that says "miniature"
depends on what you doing. I am an optician, I make glasses, and I can tell, specialised tools for my work are better (wear and tear, quality, weight, etc.). For few uses or some beginner levels, you don't need such tools, but if you spend 10 hours daily making and fixing glasses, well, you notice. Also, I do have "self" made tools, like this guy - a stick for glue, paper clips for fixating flex mechanisms.
But I do agree, in most cases, for consumer level use, not really a point to overpay.
I have cheap screw drivers at home that I uses from time to time, and I have very, very expensive ones at work and not a single chip or wear and tear after years of use.
Absolutely, when I first started a few months ago I made the ridiculous mistake of going to Hobby Lobby…. $375 later I thought I had most of what I needed. Next day, at the dollar store, I find literally 75%+ of the items for 10%-20% the price. I was…. PISSED.
I'm not sure if it'll work well on armor models but when I build gunpla I've found myself almost exclusively using a $6 glass nail file i got off Amazon for sanding. As long as you control your pressure it it completely removes nub marks without any real damage to the plastic. Then I polish with a 3200 grit sanding sponge and it comes out wonderfully. Keeps the clear parts nice and pristine!
Great information for basic modeling tools and tips. I found your video to be helpful and useful. There are so many esoteric brands and options available on the market, it can be difficult knowing what to select sometimes. I think with the US economy being in its current situation, demonstrating that money can be saved by augmenting your tool purchases with improvised, more economical, ad hoc products. Thank you for sharing. Cheers!
this is just a personal preference but I recommend those tweezers with holes in them. you can more easily mount them to little pins to hang them
Did you mention tweezers? An absolute must-have. Also, anyone coming back to the hobby after a long, long break might want to buy a magnifying visor - I couldn't build anything without them!
5:39
Probably already something most of you know, but a lot of model railroad shows/swap meets have tool dealers there. Also a good source for scenery materials, regardless of scale.
My tip, if like me you've bought many, many Revell 1/72 aircraft kits in starter packs and wound up with a ton of those Contacta tubes things is to empty them into an old Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr. Cement bottle and use with the little brush! Less mess all round, and saves space too!
Great video, very informative. I've got a few store bought sanding sticks but mostly I make own by gluing sand paper on to pop-sickle sticks with spray adhesive. It's very cheap and if I need a rounded one I can make it with dowel or some other shaped piece of wood.
I use small plastic cups (for shots) and sticky tack, to fix certain parts that I want to paint separately in good painting position, or are hard to paint when holding the parts. And it is great for painting minifigures, instead of dedicated (and pricy) dedicated holder. Both sticky tack and cups are cheap, and depending on the tack and how you handle the cups, you can use it more than once.
I’d like to know how much I’ve spent on cement in total. Actually I think it’s a good thing I don’t know though haha
I once had no cement on a Saturday evening. Sunday's are closed here and the Monday was a holiday. Since that time I have at least one spare bottle
i have been modelling for 2 years now, only a month ago i bought my second bottle of tamiya extra thin. (i made more or less 10/15 models in that time)
I keep a spare bottle of Plastiweld on hand.
Use maybe one bottle a year or less.
Great vid. Not new to modelling but returning. Blu tac and toothpicks should be made a legal requirement. Real multi tools. I also have several small flexible poly glue spreaders (sometimes come with tubes of glue). Cut more narrow they can be great for squeegeeing filler into gaps
For Americans with very expensive dentists' appointments, Harbor Freight sells sets of dentists' "pusher tools" for putty as "PITTSBURGH
Stainless Steel Carving Set, 6 Pc." and "pick tools" as "PITTSBURGH Hook & Pick Set, 6 Pc."
If you need tools like the dentist tool, look for a wax carving kit, they are usually cheap, and come with a selection of tools.
Hey Uncle… been watching your video’s for a few years now and came across this as I don’t actually scale model right now but something I am looking at getting into. Just haven’t taken the plunge yet, but would like to see more of a tutorial on basics if this is something you’d be interested in………Yes I know before everybody jumps on the band wagon saying there are loads of other videos out there.. I just really like you’re humour and style of work and would rather see you’re video tutorial…… Dan from UK (England)…..
Old CD's and DVD's are good for squirting super glue onto.
Martin, Vaše posledné videá sa mi naozaj veľmi páčia, veľmi dobrá práca, snáď Vás neurazí, že je to najmä kvôli minimálnemu množstvu sarkazmu. Ďakujem i za fajn tipy. Teším sa na ďalšie Vaše videá.
Always interesting to see your recommendations.
I am new to scratchbuilding and am interested in handling small parts, how to square off cut ends and placing and aligning small pieces.
Do you have a video on this topic?
Thanks
Nice one as usual. 1. I use tamiya extra thin for most things and revell one in places with big surfaces or for exsample to join the tank hull parts. 2. Sometimes I use hobby knife to cut. And there is good chance to fing good pair of sprue cutters in presision instruments shop. I got mine there. But thats just an option. 3. Dont forget about hair bands. U have them I bet, as I do ( same haircut stile, by the way). I use them when I glue hul parts or plane bodies together. So yeah, here is my 5 cents about this ... 😂
More of this plz., do a pant on, old wood and deck tan and SO good and didn't have them till I did see you use them!
Nice info! Just a point to mention regarding the Tamiya " Basic putty" grey; It also sinks in a little after or while drying so adding a little more to make a bulge and then sanding away helps to counter this. This however does not always work especially if you have a very uneven surface with random textured detail. None the less a very essential tool.
What I would really like to see is a tutorial on how to work with photoetch. You want to really impress and educate, build the 1/48 Fiesler Storch with photoetch details. Just looking at the cockpit details intimidates me.
I use manicure scissors and modelling knife to clean parts for 3 years 👍 it works perfect.
Good video.. only tool I'd like to see actually made into production is the weld seam tool. It is bar nine the best little tool I've learn to make. All thanks to Nightshift!
I use Pringle lids for super glue. The plastic is soft enough the it’s easy to make a small depression with the end of the handle of a needle file or a paintbrush, which makes a perfect spot to deposit a small puddle of the thin types of super glue. The cool thing is that when you’re done and the leftover glue dries, it very easily peels right off. One Pringle lid will last ages. For application to the model, I use beading type of wire that they use to make jewelry. It comes in different gauges which is handy. I take a small length and use smooth jaw pliers and I squish one end and then I take the squished end and I fold that into a V shape down the length and when I dip it in the glue it’ll draw up a nice little bead for precision deposits. If I want to put on more glue I use thicker wire for less I use thinner wire. It’s my own little system I came up with years ago. Try it.
This Is Not only helpful for Beginners but also for average modelers
Hi, just a quick tip, instead of buying Tamiya quick cement ~5€ for 40ml, you can buy in some hardware shop butyl acetate it's the exact same formula and cost depending of the country around 15€ for 1L
One of the best purchases I've made in terms of tools was a random gundam/modeling set which was just a bunch of different sanders/files, a hobby knife, a pair of nippers and some nice tweezers. Don't think the whole thing cost more than 15€, shipping included. Of course I forgot to get cement so that was a fun month of having a model and not being able to do anything with it :v
I do all my modeling on a sheet of (clear) plexiglass. Bought at a home store and cut to the size of my desktop with a box cutter. You can cut on it, use it as a paint pallet, and spill glue or paint on it, and wipe it off. Easily replaced, about once a year, with a new, clean one... And it protects your desktop, which might help save your marriage...
For cutting PE i use a old piece of smooth bathroom tile, as you get a nice clean cut on the edge then i use Tamiya's diamond file for PE if i need to clean it up :)
Good idea👍
FWIW, I'm new to the hobby, but I've got 30 years of experience in adjacent hobbies (miniatures and terrain.) After years of using Xacto knives (which are basiclly mass-market scalpels marketed to hobbyists), I went to the source: I started working with actual scalpels. I picked up a professional scalpel handle (which was cheap) and a pack of replaceable blades. I haven't touched my Xacto since.
They're sharper than Xacto blades, hands-down. The blades are also a lot cheaper ('marketed to hobbyists' generally means high prices.) They're slightly more flexible, which can be both good and bad. They're thinner, more prices, and give cleaner, thinner, neater cuts. The only downside is that they dull a little quicker (but not that much quicker.) For tougher materials - like metals - I'd stick with the Xacto. But for regular use, I love my scalpels.
Hey here's an idea you should put particles behind the tank where it's driving if it's driving in the diorama
I really like toothpicks for sculpting