I am not usually one to review something like this because it always comes out like a slander ad or a sales pitch.... but HOLY CRAP! This is the best add-on I have gotten for my Shapeoko 3 without a doubt. I got one and decided to try it out on a scrap I had laying around and it went off without a hitch when going from a 1/4" Endmill to a 1/8" endmill to a 60degree V-bit on the same job. No bit setter needed for the changes, just throw in the new one and hit continue. Watch the video again and just go buy one already. You can thank me later for the saved time and headache when running multiple bits on the same job! PwnCNC knocked this one out of the park without a doubt.
This is exactly what I was looking for.. The Struggling with the depth of the V-bit v/s the end mill was real. Thank you for sharing just ordered one.. And now I know where to get those bad ass dust boots.
This is awesome and I imagine will be a time saver for me especially now with me moving into more cnc production with multiple bit changes. They should sponsor you! #PwnCNC give this man a $$ check. great demonstration!
Been trying to use this collar setter for a week. Cannot get the 2 bits the same for doing vcarve inlays. There is some slop in the setter. That may be the problem.
Good video, and gotta give some props to PwnCNC. I have a 3d printer so just ordered the collars and hardware, but they were exceptionally price completive compared to just ordering from McMaster or Amazon. So because I apricate them making the jig and putting the files up it was a easy choice just to order it from them.
So this is helpful for when you start a job with a end mill then need to go to a v-bit, then a round over bit then back to the end mill? Do you just need to set your Z on all the bits used for the job?
I need find a place to order these collars from so I can get enough of them and put one on every damn bit I own. Bit changes are the bane of my CNC work.
I believe you can buy extras from PwnCNC. Shoot them an email if they aren’t listed and they should be able to help you out. I’m with you on the bit changes. Worst part about using a cnc machine...
Jake Apperson, be cautious when buying collars. The ones I ordered when I made the set block from Chris's previous video worked but I found out the collars for the 1/4" and 1/8" bits were a different thickness resulting in a different depth for the Z setting. I like this set block here though.
So when setting up a collar for the depth stop on a 1/4" shank and 1/8" shank, what is the important measurement. From the cutting end of the bit to the bottom of the collar or top of the collar. Because there are times that want to use both diameter shanked bits.
That's a very inventive jig, very much lateral thinking. However, it would only work if you push it high enough, and exact enough, into the spindle with each bit. How do you accomplish that? Do you just shove it in, and bottom it out? I use the paper method of setting z heights too, BTW.
One thing I've run into using the collars is the offset between where I put the bit in and when I tighten it down - there's a gap there that seems to affect the accuracy. Then when I go to remove the bit, the collet pushes the collar down. Am I doing this wrong?
Great video! I have tried it out, but when it comes to the bit change the router stops and wont raise the router high enough to make the bit change. Do I need to change something in carbide create or in carbide motion?
Chris great video on the new bit setter from PWNCNC 2 questions I see some small clamps that are holding your board, did you make them or but them If so where. And the other is the HDZ worth the money and did you see a big difference in the quality of the cut between the to Jeff Peters
Thanks Jeff. Those clamps are the toe clamps from PwnCNC. I ended up getting the cnc4newbie z slider. I really like it. Has some extra travel, which is a plus, and it’s really well made. I did a video on the install not too long ago. I don’t know if I necessarily notice a difference in the quality of the cuts, but I am able to push it harder and not have to worry about the issues you can have with a belt when it’s pushed too hard.
It’s another cnc machine company that also makes upgrade parts for the Shapeoko. cnc4newbie.com/store/en/shapeoko-3-square-linear-bearings-slider-p105/?search=Shapeoko&description=1
I’m sorry, I phrased my question badly. I’m referring to the collet nut and collet wrench. Is that an aftermarket nut/wrench? The nut has many slots. It looks like that system is better than the typical wrench.
I had some issues with the stainless ones I used to use, so I used a drop of loctite on them. I haven’t had the issue with these black oxide ones though because the surface isn’t as smooth. Just make sure the bits are free of oil. A drop of green picture wouldn’t hurt anything if you wanted a little extra peace of mind.
Hey Chris, thanks for your great videos. I have some questions for clarification. Does the face of your collet protrude farther down/past the face of your collet nut? It seems if I tried this on my Carbide 3D router setup, the stop collar on the tool would end up hitting the collet nut instead of the collet face which would cause the tool stick-out to have errors depending on how much I loosened the nut before reinstalling the new bit. Thanks in advance for your response!
I bought a set but I'm finding the collets to be tight even with loosened screw and degreasing. the bit doesn't go on with the ease. I tried Silicone Spray. Any suggestions ?
Where did you get your precision nut for the Dewalt router I’m having trouble finding them and shipping to Melbourne Australia can you get them in 6mm bit shaft size ?
How much of the shank do you typically have in the collet? I just picked up a shapeoko and it has the makita router with it. I feel like the shanks on all of the bits are short and If I try the collet method It would end up next to the cutting head for the collet to get a good grip. Thanks!
How should this give you a repeatable insert depth, if you use a collet with a union nut? The ring is touching the nut, not the collet and both parts are not a reference to your table. Additionally the distance would change when the shaft diameter is a tiny bit off, because then the union nut would end in another height when clamping. This method can lead to an error of more than a millimeter.
@@ChrisPowellFSD the ring has a fixed distance to the tool‘s tip, but the union nut and collet do not have a repeatable distance to the spindle and therefore not a to the table or worksurface. If you did not notice it, it just means that your works do tolerate changes of up to a millimeter. For other users this could mean severe problems, so it should not be advertised as an exact and reliable method.
@@ChrisPowellFSD I have tried and the results were off +/- 0.2mm even with the same bit. And that is way more than I have when using a probe. You really see the problems, when doing precise work on metal or v-carve inlay work.
Thanks for sharing, I’ve been waiting for it to come out. I will be ordering one. I’ve been using the collars for about 6 months and I love it. Have not used my touch probe since I went with the collars and it seems to me to be more accurate. Thank you again for your tutorials.
Hi. I just came across this video looking for something else. But I have to ask. These collars, will they not increase bit run out? I know your method is a bit quicker when doing multiple cutter changes but I'd be concerned with runout.
The product must have gotten worse since you reviewed this. Mine came with no cover like yours and was not so easy to handle as a result. The collars are too big and heavy (bigger and heavier than the collars on a flush trim bit or collars that have bearings)resulting in outrageous runout and noise on the router. It was so bad I had to turn off the router and disconnect and go back to my old method. That was a waste of my money and I really don't know why someone doesn't acknowledge the excessive weight of the collars and screw.
🤦I co z tego skoro pojawią się drgania podczas pracy i spadek w dokładności oraz z czasem szybka degeneracja łożysk wrzeciona.......😅 Mądrzejsi od was już to przerabiali dlatego pojawiły się uchwyty np iso20, sk, bt 30 itd...
![Down Bits (Down Cut) And CNC Routers [What You Didn't Know] - Garrett Fromme](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tykj6Nn-ysM/mqdefault.jpg)
I used these for the first time today. I like it. Once you mount all the bits to be used on a job, you only need to zero the first one. Saves time.
Yea they’re pretty awesome.
I am not usually one to review something like this because it always comes out like a slander ad or a sales pitch.... but HOLY CRAP! This is the best add-on I have gotten for my Shapeoko 3 without a doubt. I got one and decided to try it out on a scrap I had laying around and it went off without a hitch when going from a 1/4" Endmill to a 1/8" endmill to a 60degree V-bit on the same job. No bit setter needed for the changes, just throw in the new one and hit continue. Watch the video again and just go buy one already. You can thank me later for the saved time and headache when running multiple bits on the same job! PwnCNC knocked this one out of the park without a doubt.
Would you have any footage of this working with your shapeoko. I have the xxl pro and am interested.
Dziękujemy.
I just wanted to say I appreciate your videos. As someone with a new Shapeoko, they have been very helpful. :)
Thank you! I’m glad to hear it
This is exactly what I was looking for.. The Struggling with the depth of the V-bit v/s the end mill was real. Thank you for sharing just ordered one.. And now I know where to get those bad ass dust boots.
All of their stuff is awesome. Daniel puts a lot of thought into his designs.
Best little tool from PwnCNC. Thank you for sharing.
unreal idea. will be printing my own
This is awesome and I imagine will be a time saver for me especially now with me moving into more cnc production with multiple bit changes. They should sponsor you! #PwnCNC give this man a $$ check. great demonstration!
Thanks Chris
Newbie here. Ruined a sign this weekend by forgetting to zero the final profile bit! This seems handy to me.
It definitely is
I bought this. What a speedy accurate way to change bits
Awesome. I swear by it.
man you stuff is so good and helpful..
watch all your stuff
Thank you
really really perfect solution
Great video, about to order shapoko 4xxl, these videos are what I want to learn, the little tips and tricks, thank you, Subscribed
Thank you! Good luck with it
Been trying to use this collar setter for a week. Cannot get the 2 bits the same for doing vcarve inlays. There is some slop in the setter. That may be the problem.
Have you messaged PwnCNC? You’re using the collars that came with it?
@@ChrisPowellFSD yes messaged them last night. waiting for reply. Going to try another v bit today.
@@AaronTurnwald let me know how that turns out.
Another informative video. Thanks Chris!
Good video, and gotta give some props to PwnCNC. I have a 3d printer so just ordered the collars and hardware, but they were exceptionally price completive compared to just ordering from McMaster or Amazon. So because I apricate them making the jig and putting the files up it was a easy choice just to order it from them.
Daniel does a lot for this community. I love supporting his projects.
So this is helpful for when you start a job with a end mill then need to go to a v-bit, then a round over bit then back to the end mill? Do you just need to set your Z on all the bits used for the job?
Yeah I just set z once.
I need find a place to order these collars from so I can get enough of them and put one on every damn bit I own. Bit changes are the bane of my CNC work.
I believe you can buy extras from PwnCNC. Shoot them an email if they aren’t listed and they should be able to help you out. I’m with you on the bit changes. Worst part about using a cnc machine...
Jake Apperson, be cautious when buying collars. The ones I ordered when I made the set block from Chris's previous video worked but I found out the collars for the 1/4" and 1/8" bits were a different thickness resulting in a different depth for the Z setting. I like this set block here though.
PwnCNC makes one for 1/8” bits too, and I believe it’s designed so the top setting lines up with the bottom setting on the 1/4” one.
So when setting up a collar for the depth stop on a 1/4" shank and 1/8" shank, what is the important measurement. From the cutting end of the bit to the bottom of the collar or top of the collar. Because there are times that want to use both diameter shanked bits.
I'm using this technique as well. It's the best and cheapest way. In fact, this is the fastest.
Hey what collet are you using in that DeWalt router?
Precise Bits
That's a very inventive jig, very much lateral thinking.
However, it would only work if you push it high enough, and exact enough, into the spindle with each bit. How do you accomplish that? Do you just shove it in, and bottom it out?
I use the paper method of setting z heights too, BTW.
One thing I've run into using the collars is the offset between where I put the bit in and when I tighten it down - there's a gap there that seems to affect the accuracy. Then when I go to remove the bit, the collet pushes the collar down. Am I doing this wrong?
If they’re slipping, try some loftier or ca glue. The bit should actually be getting pulled up into the collet when tightening.
Wow!!! Great video! Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you and well done!!!!
awesome as usual.. Thanks for the continued tutorials.
Thank you!
Chris this is a great idea thanks for the tip. Where did you get the collet nut & wrench for your router?
I got those from Precise Bits. It’s their precision collet.
@@ChrisPowellFSD thanks Chris
Great video! I have tried it out, but when it comes to the bit change the router stops and wont raise the router high enough to make the bit change. Do I need to change something in carbide create or in carbide motion?
Make sure you have the right post processor selected in carbide create.
I will check it out this weekend. Love watching your videos, keep up the great work! Thanks
Chris great video on the new bit setter from PWNCNC
2 questions I see some small clamps that are holding your board, did you make them or but them If so where.
And the other is the HDZ worth the money and did you see a big difference in the quality of the cut between the to
Jeff Peters
Thanks Jeff. Those clamps are the toe clamps from PwnCNC. I ended up getting the cnc4newbie z slider. I really like it. Has some extra travel, which is a plus, and it’s really well made. I did a video on the install not too long ago. I don’t know if I necessarily notice a difference in the quality of the cuts, but I am able to push it harder and not have to worry about the issues you can have with a belt when it’s pushed too hard.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Is that a Cabide 3D Product . I must have missed that video.
It’s another cnc machine company that also makes upgrade parts for the Shapeoko. cnc4newbie.com/store/en/shapeoko-3-square-linear-bearings-slider-p105/?search=Shapeoko&description=1
What is the model of that router you're using? I like the method used for removing/inserting bits. That wrench used looks easy.
It’s a Dewalt with a Precise Bits collar
I’m sorry, I phrased my question badly.
I’m referring to the collet nut and collet wrench. Is that an aftermarket nut/wrench?
The nut has many slots. It looks like that system is better than the typical wrench.
@@rrr92462 yes, it’s from precise bits
What purpose does the "top half" serve? Seems like it would work just as well without it.
The new ones they make don’t have that.
Chris, great videos! Question, have you had any issue with the bit collar screw coming loose when carving? Shapeoko Pro XXL will be here next week.
I had some issues with the stainless ones I used to use, so I used a drop of loctite on them. I haven’t had the issue with these black oxide ones though because the surface isn’t as smooth. Just make sure the bits are free of oil. A drop of green picture wouldn’t hurt anything if you wanted a little extra peace of mind.
so what this does is prevents having to redo the paper methode each time between bits?
Yea, it lets you do a bit change without resetting your z zero. The only time I ever change it is when I change material thickness.
This is great. Much cheaper than a the bit setter from Shapeoko. Gonna have to pick this up.
It’s a really great accessory.
Hey Chris, thanks for your great videos. I have some questions for clarification. Does the face of your collet protrude farther down/past the face of your collet nut? It seems if I tried this on my Carbide 3D router setup, the stop collar on the tool would end up hitting the collet nut instead of the collet face which would cause the tool stick-out to have errors depending on how much I loosened the nut before reinstalling the new bit. Thanks in advance for your response!
Thanks. Yea it touches the face of the nut.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thanks
I bought a set but I'm finding the collets to be tight even with loosened screw and degreasing. the bit doesn't go on with the ease. I tried Silicone Spray. Any suggestions ?
Maybe stick a screw driver in the gap and twist it a little to slightly open it up.
@@ChrisPowellFSD I tried a another set of bits and they fit freely. I might try a spark plug gap or a fine screw driver. Thanks
Where did you get your precision nut for the Dewalt router I’m having trouble finding them and shipping to Melbourne Australia can you get them in 6mm bit shaft size ?
I got it from Precise Bits. Not sure if they do metric.
What is that dust boot? Do you have STL's for it?
It’s a PwnCNC like the set up tool for the collars. You can buy one from them or get the stl on thingiverse.
How much of the shank do you typically have in the collet? I just picked up a shapeoko and it has the makita router with it. I feel like the shanks on all of the bits are short and If I try the collet method It would end up next to the cutting head for the collet to get a good grip. Thanks!
I try to leave about 1/2” or so. I’ve run some shorter, without issue, but prefer not to.
do these come with the collars?
Yes
Can you provide a link to the collet you are using?
www.precisebits.com/products/equipment/dewalt_611_kits.asp&filter=1?tracking=5f0e2bc27b164
How should this give you a repeatable insert depth, if you use a collet with a union nut? The ring is touching the nut, not the collet and both parts are not a reference to your table. Additionally the distance would change when the shaft diameter is a tiny bit off, because then the union nut would end in another height when clamping. This method can lead to an error of more than a millimeter.
It references the tip of the bit. I’ve been using this setup for years with no accuracy issues.
@@ChrisPowellFSD the ring has a fixed distance to the tool‘s tip, but the union nut and collet do not have a repeatable distance to the spindle and therefore not a to the table or worksurface. If you did not notice it, it just means that your works do tolerate changes of up to a millimeter. For other users this could mean severe problems, so it should not be advertised as an exact and reliable method.
@@BaschyGoode you should give it a try. I’m only speaking from my experience with actually using this setup. It works great.
@@ChrisPowellFSD I have tried and the results were off +/- 0.2mm even with the same bit. And that is way more than I have when using a probe. You really see the problems, when doing precise work on metal or v-carve inlay work.
@@BaschyGoode not sure what’s going on with your setup. They work perfect for me and many others. 🤷♂️
Chris where you out of your accent sounds eastern NC-ish, love this setup.
Upstate NY
@@ChrisPowellFSD never would have guessed lol
You’ll hear it when I say car and stuff like that haha
Thanks for sharing, I’ve been waiting for it to come out. I will be ordering one. I’ve been using the collars for about 6 months and I love it. Have not used my touch probe since I went with the collars and it seems to me to be more accurate. Thank you again for your tutorials.
Thank you!
so how do you deal with the transition from a short Vbit to a long reach 1/8th or 1/4 in bit? wont you still have to reset z?
I try to find a happy medium so I can set all of mine to be the same length. I try to stay away from shorter bits.
Sweet!
That looks like a dewalt trim router that's been undressed. But it seems you swapped out the collet. What are you using there?
It’s from Precise Bits.
This is cool, gonna have to order some. Any kickback for you through the link to help you out?
No, just helps them to keep making cool new products.
COOL VIDEO ....
Hi. I just came across this video looking for something else. But I have to ask. These collars, will they not increase bit run out? I know your method is a bit quicker when doing multiple cutter changes but I'd be concerned with runout.
It would have no effect on runout.
The product must have gotten worse since you reviewed this. Mine came with no cover like yours and was not so easy to handle as a result.
The collars are too big and heavy (bigger and heavier than the collars on a flush trim bit or collars that have bearings)resulting in outrageous runout and noise on the router. It was so bad I had to turn off the router and disconnect and go back to my old method.
That was a waste of my money and I really don't know why someone doesn't acknowledge the excessive weight of the collars and screw.
THATS PRITTY SLICK IAM GOING TO ORDER ONE
I do not understand why you need to fit and remove the cover. Perfectly possible to secure both plate and collar without a cover.
Cigarette papers are very thin, I use them a lot. Try them !!
I’ll have to give them a try.
Not balanced🤷♂️
🤦I co z tego skoro pojawią się drgania podczas pracy i spadek w dokładności oraz z czasem szybka degeneracja łożysk wrzeciona.......😅 Mądrzejsi od was już to przerabiali dlatego pojawiły się uchwyty np iso20, sk, bt 30 itd...