🔗 My Favorite Collet Wrenches - 13mm amzn.to/3h59uJ9 & 22mm amzn.to/3qESFrF 🔗 The Tablet I Use to Run My CNC: amzn.to/3AfTXxF 🔗 My CAD Program - Carveco Maker: store-us.carveco.com/?ref=sam... Use coupon code SAMCRAFT for 5% off! 🔗 BitRunner Install Video on my CNC: ua-cam.com/video/l7SGpjK2hIo/v-deo.html 🔗 BitSetter, BitZero & BitRunner at Carbide 3D: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/accessories 🔗 My Website: sam-craft.com 🔗 Latest Video: goo.gl/Snbz3U 🔗 Most Popular Video: goo.gl/vwp6GG
I totally understand that!! This was a business purchase so that helped a lot (taxes). If I didn't have that option I would not have gotten this huge machine. I would have gotten one of the smaller machines.
New to the channel, Sam, and absolutely love your content. Have my Shapeoko 4 XXL coming tomorrow so I figured I'd throw your videos on while I build my stand for it. If you're looking for video ideas, I'd love to hear your thoughts on how a beginner can make money with the tool. i.e. what types of products sell best, where to sell, etc. Thanks again!
Awesome to hear you're getting the NEW Shapeoko 4!!! Woo hoo!!! I'll see what I can come up with, thanks for the suggestion and getting my thinker thinking! :)
Sam, I received my Shapeoko 5 pro 4x2 today and was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect the wires to the main board, I have all wires connected except for one and cant figure out where it needs to go.
Sam it looks like you might have forgot to hook the alligator clip to the BitZero before. When I first got my XXL last year I forgot to hook the clip up and it certainly woke me up quickly as it drove my bit hard into the probe :( great video as always!! I have the BitSitter and BitZero and love them both!!
That happened once, but it's also been known to keep going and not register the contact on me a time or two. I never could explain it. This all happened with the V1 BitZero. I've not used the V2 long enough to say if it will happen to it or not. But yes... I be human still. :D
practical working speed to make some sign boards or 10" arch letters 9plinn and fancy fonts hard vs soft material speed what can you really earn and charge for your time on this bed. can you draw on stuff 'paint gold on work like a pinstriper
Either one is fine. Their branded router is a Makita clone, so it's the same internals. I've never had issues with my clone router from them. It came with extra brushes which is the part that tends to wear out over time... although I'm still on my original set.
Thank you sir, your videos are very informative. I have 2 questions, if you do not mind answering. 1. I have a Shapeoko XXL, would the BitSetter, BitZero v2, BitRunner v2 all work on my machine? 2. Can they all be installed to all work together? Thank you.
Another great video Sam, Im not sure which route I want to take yet, maybe all 3, what would you suggest? from a standpoint I havent purchased my cnc yet
hi sam! good presentation. i still don't see how i can justify adding another $320 to my shapeoko 2. bitsetter, when i do my design work in vcarve, i set the x-y zero at a point 1/16" in, and 1/16" up from the corner of my workpiece, and that is a good center for my 1/8" bits. i just line them up by eye, then set the z axis with my favorite standby, a .003" bit of paper. that seems to get the height relatively close. when it comes time to change a bit, say, on the project i am working on now, i tell ugs to return to zero, reset zero, raise it by .02, and send it down 20 inches, and over 6 inches. then i change the bit, and hit return to zero, and reset the height with the bit of paper. after almost 4 years of using my cnc, i don't know how i managed to get by without these miraculous devices...
I just got the same cnc machine about 2 weeks ago and already have orders for some larger projects. Have you done any tiling projects with this machine? Can it be done without drilling doweling holes into the work piece? Please post a video of how to do this.
Good video and it does clear some things up. So thank you. What I still don't quite get is if I have a touch probe why would I need a bit setter? After I change a bit I could just use the touch probe and get the same result. Right?
You could, if you split your job into separate files per bit. The benefit of a BitSetter is to just program one job with different tool numbers. When it's done with Tool #1, it stops, you load Tool #2, then press Start. It automatically senses the bit and keeps going without any further touch probe work.
Great video Sam. I was curious about the slight movement of the probe body in the x/y direction. Do you have a better feel if this is being accounted for and is not a real concern?
Hey Sam, I have contemplating on purchasing a CNC machine. Reviewed many different brands and after many of your videos on the Shapeoko 4 this seem like nice machine to start out with. Saying that, I'm a beginner and know little other then what you have explained about this CNC, would it be to my advantage in purchasing the bitrunner!. Like I said in the beginning of video it can be bit confusing. So which is best for a beginner?. Once again thanks and any advice will be greatly appreciated. Mike
I would recommend the Pro (sam has the pro, shapeoko 4 is not the same). I have the pro XL version. Sam has XXL. You would have to decide for yourself when it comes to the HYBRID TABLE option. I got it. I do not intend to cut the top of it at all & instead will use thin waste boards between it & the work piece - I could have saved hundreds by just skipping it & mounting my own wasteboard instead. Food for thought. It is a good machine. Depending on your needs, you may want to look at Onefinity as well. Keeping in mind, Carbide3D is a company based in USA & Onefinity comes out of Canada. Also from Canada is Longmill - also a very good machine. Shapeoko Pro seems very nice & I like the controller board is mounted directly to it. That said, you may want to weigh the pros & cons of all of these machines. Drive systems: Onefinity has the best drive system of all of them (ball screws). Longmill mk2 uses Acme/Lead screws - decent. Garrett Fromme’s channel has a great set of videos about the longmill. He has 2 generations of the machine. Next is Shapeoko 4 & Pro, using belts to drive on. Not ideal! However, they are beefy 15mm belts & decent. They can be upgraded as well, with third-party aftermarket belts, down the road. They seem very fine to me. I think they are reinforced, though I am not sure yet. Stepcraft’s new 3rd gen D series is worth looking at. It is very, very good. Probably the best of all the machines named DEPENDING on which one you get & which options you need - the options can make it costly fast. The stepcraft runs with lead screws & steel-on-steel rails. It is a massive leap forward from the second generation stepcraft D machines, in basically every way.
Does a bit zero need to be used first before the bit setter for a large cut job just to set the x/y of the stock? I get that I can design with the 33x33 base in mind and place my stock accordingly.
The bit zero itself is not required, you can zero the machine manually. But the zeroing process is required so that the machine knows where the stock begins at for the job.
No problem... with the v1 BitZero from Carbide 3D. The v2 may not work well since it zeros from inside a pocket vs. the outside faces of the block. When running v-bit jobs, I'll eyeball the x and y axis zero points, then use the probe for the z axis only.
Well done Sam. One thing I did mention before was having a ground fully hooked to the router at all times might simplify all the "connections" steps you have to do to insure you've done everything. .ua-cam.com/video/fH7xUTdp-lw/v-deo.html I don't know whether you actually saw it before but this man is pretty handy.
I didn't see it before -- UA-cam likes to delete comments with links. That's a neat solution for his machine though. Thankfully I don't have to do that with mine since it's all metal and self-grounding from spindle to frame, etc. :)
Sam great info, but I am not a fan nor a user of CNC machines in my wood shop. That old saying "if you cant say anything good then say nothing at all" so I will c-ya on your next video, have a great day take care.
I chose not to get a touch point for my CNC. Setting the Z height by visual inspection after a tool change is usually accurate enough for any wood, plastic, or resin projects I have tried. As I get older and my eyesight fails, I may decide to add one. But I would just add one wire to a feeler gauge, another wire to a clip to attach to the tool bit, and plug them into the Probe input.
That info should be on the CARBIDE website... one must go to 3rd party videos to get this basic info. Thank you for that, Mr. Sam Still I have yet to find what controller comes with the Shapeoko 5 Pro(4x2 in my case)... It's like they are using a deceptive presentation... it is not in the 'What's included' section of their page, nor in the User-Must-Provide list, or anywhere discussed I could put my eyes on ???
🔗 My Favorite Collet Wrenches - 13mm amzn.to/3h59uJ9 & 22mm amzn.to/3qESFrF 🔗 The Tablet I Use to Run My CNC: amzn.to/3AfTXxF 🔗 My CAD Program - Carveco Maker: store-us.carveco.com/?ref=sam... Use coupon code SAMCRAFT for 5% off! 🔗 BitRunner Install Video on my CNC: ua-cam.com/video/l7SGpjK2hIo/v-deo.html 🔗 BitSetter, BitZero & BitRunner at Carbide 3D: shop.carbide3d.com/collections/accessories 🔗 My Website: sam-craft.com 🔗 Latest Video: goo.gl/Snbz3U 🔗 Most Popular Video: goo.gl/vwp6GG
I have started to find the center of the work and then do the x,y and z from the centre. Works really well for me.
Thanks. This old wood worker will probably never have a CNC but it is nice to be learning about this technology.
I appreciate the comment. :) It's hard not to just make content on the machine... especially after spending the money for it! LOL
@@Samcraftcom I am impressed the capabilities of a CNC but just can't find the money or space.
Good stuff. Also, Samcraft is a very excellent name. Not only straight to the point in a literal way, but it also has a nice flow to the words.
As I am doing so research, your video was a great help! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Love to see what is coming next. ALWAYS educational and interesting.
You could be a teacher. Wait, you are teaching. Thank you Sam.
I would love a CNC machine I just can’t justify it yet.
I totally understand that!! This was a business purchase so that helped a lot (taxes). If I didn't have that option I would not have gotten this huge machine. I would have gotten one of the smaller machines.
Thanks for the great info. I just ordered a Shapeoko, this video explained the difference great!
Glad it was helpful!
glad to see videos coming out again and as always great video
Thanks! Glad you like them!
I like the idea of manually turning on my router.Only problem when I began I turned it on right before a bit setter process.... ooops. No damage tho.
New to the channel, Sam, and absolutely love your content. Have my Shapeoko 4 XXL coming tomorrow so I figured I'd throw your videos on while I build my stand for it. If you're looking for video ideas, I'd love to hear your thoughts on how a beginner can make money with the tool. i.e. what types of products sell best, where to sell, etc. Thanks again!
Awesome to hear you're getting the NEW Shapeoko 4!!! Woo hoo!!! I'll see what I can come up with, thanks for the suggestion and getting my thinker thinking! :)
Thanks for a great video; very helpful and informative.
Love the videos and delivery, thank you very much.
Glad you like them!
Learning as always! Thanks Sam!!
My pleasure!
Loving the videos bro, earned yourself a sub, and def sold me on a shapeoko
Lots of good info, thanks
Good information - thank you
always educational, and great projects. 💚👍
Thank you!
Good job Sam!
Thanks!
Do you have a video that show the setup and how to use the bitsetter. I bought one and would like to see if I am using it right.
Thank you
Sam, I received my Shapeoko 5 pro 4x2 today and was wondering if you could do a video on how to connect the wires to the main board, I have all wires connected except for one and cant figure out where it needs to go.
I don't have that machine. I only have a Shapeoko Pro XXL.
Sam it looks like you might have forgot to hook the alligator clip to the BitZero before. When I first got my XXL last year I forgot to hook the clip up and it certainly woke me up quickly as it drove my bit hard into the probe :( great video as always!! I have the BitSitter and BitZero and love them both!!
That happened once, but it's also been known to keep going and not register the contact on me a time or two. I never could explain it. This all happened with the V1 BitZero. I've not used the V2 long enough to say if it will happen to it or not. But yes... I be human still. :D
@@Samcraftcom The only time I had a problem was when I didn't put the alligator clip on. I still use the V1
practical working speed to make some sign boards or 10" arch letters 9plinn and fancy fonts hard vs soft material speed what can you really earn and charge for your time on this bed. can you draw on stuff 'paint gold on work like a pinstriper
Is it possible to use a bigger collet on the shapeoko?
Hi, can you do a similar video with spanish subtitules?
So I’m looking at the 5 pro. Which router would you recommend, their router or a makita.
Either one is fine. Their branded router is a Makita clone, so it's the same internals. I've never had issues with my clone router from them. It came with extra brushes which is the part that tends to wear out over time... although I'm still on my original set.
Thank you sir, your videos are very informative. I have 2 questions, if you do not mind answering. 1. I have a Shapeoko XXL, would the BitSetter, BitZero v2, BitRunner v2 all work on my machine? 2. Can they all be installed to all work together? Thank you.
Another great video Sam, Im not sure which route I want to take yet, maybe all 3, what would you suggest? from a standpoint I havent purchased my cnc yet
Thanks! I would get the BitSetter, BitZero, BitRunner. In that order. :)
hi sam! good presentation. i still don't see how i can justify adding another $320 to my shapeoko 2. bitsetter, when i do my design work in vcarve, i set the x-y zero at a point 1/16" in, and 1/16" up from the corner of my workpiece, and that is a good center for my 1/8" bits. i just line them up by eye, then set the z axis with my favorite standby, a .003" bit of paper. that seems to get the height relatively close. when it comes time to change a bit, say, on the project i am working on now, i tell ugs to return to zero, reset zero, raise it by .02, and send it down 20 inches, and over 6 inches. then i change the bit, and hit return to zero, and reset the height with the bit of paper. after almost 4 years of using my cnc, i don't know how i managed to get by without these miraculous devices...
I just got the same cnc machine about 2 weeks ago and already have orders for some larger projects. Have you done any tiling projects with this machine? Can it be done without drilling doweling holes into the work piece? Please post a video of how to do this.
Good video and it does clear some things up. So thank you.
What I still don't quite get is if I have a touch probe why would I need a bit setter? After I change a bit I could just use the touch probe and get the same result. Right?
You could, if you split your job into separate files per bit. The benefit of a BitSetter is to just program one job with different tool numbers. When it's done with Tool #1, it stops, you load Tool #2, then press Start. It automatically senses the bit and keeps going without any further touch probe work.
@@Samcraftcom thanks for clearing that up. I have been learning on a cheap ebay 3018. On that machine I use individual files and DIY touch probe.
Great video Sam. I was curious about the slight movement of the probe body in the x/y direction. Do you have a better feel if this is being accounted for and is not a real concern?
I've not had any noticeable issues arise from it, so it's not turned into any issue for me.
Sam, since bitzero finds x,y, and z do you need to get bitsetter? Thanks
Hey Sam, I have contemplating on purchasing a CNC machine. Reviewed many different brands and after many of your videos on the Shapeoko 4 this seem like nice machine to start out with. Saying that, I'm a beginner and know little other then what you have explained about this CNC, would it be to my advantage in purchasing the bitrunner!. Like I said in the beginning of video it can be bit confusing. So which is best for a beginner?. Once again thanks and any advice will be greatly appreciated. Mike
I would recommend the Pro (sam has the pro, shapeoko 4 is not the same). I have the pro XL version. Sam has XXL. You would have to decide for yourself when it comes to the HYBRID TABLE option. I got it. I do not intend to cut the top of it at all & instead will use thin waste boards between it & the work piece - I could have saved hundreds by just skipping it & mounting my own wasteboard instead. Food for thought. It is a good machine. Depending on your needs, you may want to look at Onefinity as well. Keeping in mind, Carbide3D is a company based in USA & Onefinity comes out of Canada. Also from Canada is Longmill - also a very good machine. Shapeoko Pro seems very nice & I like the controller board is mounted directly to it. That said, you may want to weigh the pros & cons of all of these machines. Drive systems: Onefinity has the best drive system of all of them (ball screws). Longmill mk2 uses Acme/Lead screws - decent. Garrett Fromme’s channel has a great set of videos about the longmill. He has 2 generations of the machine. Next is Shapeoko 4 & Pro, using belts to drive on. Not ideal! However, they are beefy 15mm belts & decent. They can be upgraded as well, with third-party aftermarket belts, down the road. They seem very fine to me. I think they are reinforced, though I am not sure yet. Stepcraft’s new 3rd gen D series is worth looking at. It is very, very good. Probably the best of all the machines named DEPENDING on which one you get & which options you need - the options can make it costly fast. The stepcraft runs with lead screws & steel-on-steel rails. It is a massive leap forward from the second generation stepcraft D machines, in basically every way.
Does a bit zero need to be used first before the bit setter for a large cut job just to set the x/y of the stock? I get that I can design with the 33x33 base in mind and place my stock accordingly.
The bit zero itself is not required, you can zero the machine manually. But the zeroing process is required so that the machine knows where the stock begins at for the job.
Can you use a v but with the bit zero? Thanks I appreciate your input.
No problem... with the v1 BitZero from Carbide 3D. The v2 may not work well since it zeros from inside a pocket vs. the outside faces of the block. When running v-bit jobs, I'll eyeball the x and y axis zero points, then use the probe for the z axis only.
Well done Sam. One thing I did mention before was having a ground fully hooked to the router at all times might simplify all the "connections" steps you have to do to insure you've done everything. .ua-cam.com/video/fH7xUTdp-lw/v-deo.html I don't know whether you actually saw it before but this man is pretty handy.
I didn't see it before -- UA-cam likes to delete comments with links. That's a neat solution for his machine though. Thankfully I don't have to do that with mine since it's all metal and self-grounding from spindle to frame, etc. :)
@@Samcraftcom Actually you do when you snap that magnetic connection to the spindle ... (after you had the alligator clip ...you upgraded from...)
Sam great info, but I am not a fan nor a user of CNC machines in my wood shop. That old saying "if you cant say anything good then say nothing at all" so I will c-ya on your next video, have a great day take care.
Fair enough, still appreciate you stopping by!
The bitzero is nothing but a cheap gimmick. It works half the time and when it fails it forces you to reinitalize in CM.
Roboticism sounds like nasty stuff the cncs do behind the storage shed when no one is looking.
Hehehe if only they'd make another CNC for me, then it'd be fine by me!
I chose not to get a touch point for my CNC. Setting the Z height by visual inspection after a tool change is usually accurate enough for any wood, plastic, or resin projects I have tried.
As I get older and my eyesight fails, I may decide to add one. But I would just add one wire to a feeler gauge, another wire to a clip to attach to the tool bit, and plug them into the Probe input.
Thanks for the information Sam 👍🏻
Thanks, very interesting.
Glad you liked it!
That info should be on the CARBIDE website... one must go to 3rd party videos to get this basic info. Thank you for that, Mr. Sam
Still I have yet to find what controller comes with the Shapeoko 5 Pro(4x2 in my case)...
It's like they are using a deceptive presentation... it is not in the 'What's included' section of their page, nor in the User-Must-Provide list, or anywhere discussed I could put my eyes on ???