Really cool to see people still making videos of these. My dad bought an 85 back in '06. Then a 7.3 when i was in highschool. I own 4 of idi's😆. I don't know why but every 6.9 I've owned has started leaking coolant or oil out of the back left corner of the driver side head. Assuming the head gasket. I was also told by and old ford tec there was a recall on the 6.9s for head gaskets and ford was relpacing head gaskets under warranty back in the day. If anyone could confirm I've only heard rumors. Absolutely love these engines they're the reason on the diesel tech today. Currently working on building out a factory turbo 7.3 in a 4 door obs with zf5 and dana 60 shoooting for 300hp
@@redneckcrazy7993 you are right. They had poor head gaskets and 7/16 head bolts. The leak is external and doesn't really hurt anything just weeps a bit.
It's hard to sift through all the garbage people say about these old diesels and actually know if you're helping or hurting when you put it to practice. I'll be taking your experiential knowledge to heart and backing my metering screw back down from the 2.5 flats I was told to put it at 🙄 Thanks for all the great advice Nolan! 🤘
Ya man if its a non turbo 1.5 flats is good there is nothing to gain at all after that other than smoke. A non turbo can only breath in so much air so you can add all the fuel in the world and it wont do nothing other than make smoke and heat. When your truck is wide open it should have a good grey haze out the pipe not pouring black soot. If it has a white/grey smoke all the time it usually needs more timing advance. Hit me up for any question and I will tell you my thoughts. Let me know how it works. Nolan.
It may be frowned apon but I’ve got mine cranked all the way with about 18 psi of boost with some added timing on an 85 6.9 and no head studs or headgasket issues for about the last 16 years she loves it and is still more reliable than most of my buddies newer trucks with the highest egts I’ve ever seen was about 1000 f. Great video keep up the good work!! Ps mine is intercooled with 4inch straight pipe.
@@PAPAwheelie568 like they say 'I have seen them hold with more and blow with less'. That's a awesome man. Best upgrade on my old 7.3 was a snow performance water meth kit. I sprayed 650ml per min on progressive controller, spray started at 4 psi and max sprayed at 8psi. Even with straight water it gave it some power and kept the egt's down. I would recommend a big water tank in the box. Helped fuel mileage a lot when pulling to. On a 50/50 mix of water and methanol it gave it a huge power boost for playing around but that gets expensive.
Finally! Another Canadian brother posting an actual video on a vehicle! Great job bud! Had 3 of these trucks myself, doing the same videos on my Mustang! Cheers!
Hello, i just baught a 1994 f250 7.3 idi turbo. It starts hard in the mornings, and smokes until it warms up then all the white smoke goes away. I’m looking into changing the glow plugs, valve, cover gasket, injectors, and then just a regular maintenance oil change and fuel filter. Do you have any recommendations on what else I can do to get the most out of it. Has 202k. I’ve always wanted to own an OBS Ford and was just now after many years able to get one. I also want to turn it up like you recommended, and to adjust the timing. I just don’t know exactly how to do it because there’s not videos out there that explain things the way you do, if you’re able to help that would mean the world. Thank you very much. Love your videos
@@BucerzanBudgetBuilds I would install new motor craft gloplugs and make sure there is no leaks on fuel return lines. If it still smokes you could try advancing the timing a dimes width but rotating the injection pump to the passenger side.
The volume is still the same wether its flatten out like they are or not. That down pipe will flow better becouse its going to hold heat better and hotter it is the better flow it will have plus u dont have to hack up the firewall
My truck is n/a 6.9 would you recommend turning out the torque screw all the way and turning the curve screw all the way in. If i did that would i need to turn it up 1.5 flats? Or is all that just for turbo units
@@jasonjones-ww5mb I would just turn up the fuel screw 1.5 flats. If it has a torque screw you could back it out but only 92 up 7.3idi have the torque screw.
@ reman pump it has the torque screw. It has a weird almost like a power band takes off when you get to 2500 rpms like more power 2500+. Makes a noticeable tone change like a nice moan to the air cleaner. Good for running 70+ dont have to hold the pedle so hard. thought mabe these screws could move the noticeable jump in power down to lower rpms. Smooth it out to have more power from idle to wide open. the torque screw was all the way in and the other with jam nut was all the way out truck runs very well other than that little oddity
Thanks for the tips! I have an '85 E350 motorhome with a 6.9, only 130k km on it, runs great! For a pyro on a 6.9, what would you be looking for as a max EGT and a comfortable sustained EGT?
I would make sure it has a clean air filter or a K+n replacement that's well oiled. Make sure the ducting is proper or maybe there is a way to get more air into the ducting? Under bumper? Trim tin where it sucks from by the radiator perhaps? 3" exhaust helps with a nice Y pipe a straight through style muffler perforated core style. All this will help temps. That's a great unit they didn't make many with a idi most were 351w or 460 at that time.
@@wildrosegarage4208I understand how to take the lid off. The surround of the filter housing seems to be locked on. I would like to take it off to get to the glow plugs and the injectors. I have looked at multiple videos but no one shows how to take the surround housing off.Thanks
@@bw2989 you could try advancing the timing, and fill the fuel filter fuel of diesel cleaner and ATF. Run it for a minute. Let it sit for a day and run it hard. But if the pump is worn it's worn.
@@wildrosegarage4208 thank you, Ive done that and turned the tpp in one turn, the advance piston bore is smooth and no corrosion when I resealed the pump.
@@stevesmith669 I had a 3" down pipe and turbo outlet on my 94. The turbo outlet allowed the use of a down pipe made for a 7.3 power stroke. It fit tight but fit. Went to 4" obs power stroke exhaust kit after the down pipe. Best of luck with your truck.
I have a turbo 7.3 idi. I turned the fuel all the way up, and barely noticed much difference in power. The real negative is that it belches tons of smoke after 1/4 throttle, i kept an an eye on the rear view mirror to see how much smoke was coming out and metered my throttle accordingly. I let a family member drive it and he was unknowingly smoking people out just driving it how he normally would. This was a problem because in my jurisdiction my truck could be reported to the county, i have since dialed back the fuel. Overall not worth it.
Did you adjust the waste gate to 13psi? If not it is not getting enough air for the amount of fuel. Smoke should clean up once high boost is achieved. By turning up the fuel all the way and adjusting the waste gate it will make 50% more over stock. Do you have the airbox hose hooked up so it's not sucking hot air from under the hood? If it's a 5 SPD truck it will smoke when lugging do to not enough rpm to lite the turbo. A auto truck will only smoke lots off the start and before a downshift. Not enough timing can also make smoke. With the pump turned up and the turbo set to 13psi with good exhaust and air a factory turbo Idi will make the same power as 99-03 7.3 superdutys like my daily. I hope you have a pyrometer. With the junk ford down pipe and turbo outlet the egts go through the roof. Let me know how it goes.
Overall, lots of good info, you nailed a lot of it. In terms of the pump though, you're off a little bit. The "torque screw" is a low end fueling gimmick, not high end. It simply limits metering valve travel, so that fueling under high demand/low RPM is less. As RPM rises, so does transfer pressure, and that overcomes the travel restriction... The reason they are backed out from the factory on the turbo units is because the turbo benefits from the extra low end fueling and cleans the excess up pretty quick, particularly because the factory turbo calibration is pretty light anyway. The other pump adjustment isn't a fuel curve mod. Its a fine adjustment for the defuel spec on the top end. Running it in only gives you a little extra RPM on top. The governor in these pumps is a min/max unit, and all it does is regulate idle, and defuel... The rest of the curve is determined by other adjustments in the pump, and throttle input (your right foot), that's all. Your DPS pump was nothing but a turned up 7.3 stocker, and in stock form a 7.3 pump does right around 90-95cc at peak fuel.
I know your a idi king and have been a leader in them for a long time. So I am not doubting what you know but I will say this. In my Hypermax Turbo instructions I still have somewhere it states the screw is a high rpm fuel decrease and to back it out to stop high rpm de fuel and I can say on my 93 from years ago ( 5speed factory turbo truck with a hypermax non waste gate turbo) with a factory pump at high rpm around 2800rpm it would drop around 2 psi of boost pressure (From 13psi-11psi). I backed that screw out all the way and it would not drop boost until the fuel cut right off at around 3000rpm. I am not makeing this up it did give me more fueling for a couple more 100 rpm. I had 2x factory 5 speed turbo pumps and both were like this. I just looked at the old hypermax instructions and it states to back the screw out 3 turns if fuel decreases at to low of engine speed if boost pressure drops this adjustment may be desired on 92.5 + models. I had a factory turbo auto truck (94) fuel would be full until 3300. I backed the screw out on that truck but I would be lying if I said it kept full fuel until 3300 because I never tested it first I went by the hypermax instructions and from my experience on my other truck. On the 93 I ended running a dps custom 120cc ( Ken from dps claimed) pump and stage 1 dps injectors, also sprayed a 650ml/min snowperformance water meth kit. That truck went pretty good and would say it made around the same power as my 03 7.3 powerstroke on my hottest tune it ran 16.4 @85mph on 35s. That pump was hotter than a turned up factory turbo pump for sure. Thank you for letting me know what the screw on on the back does and explaining it. Thanks for watching my stuff and keep doing what you do for these trucks. Nolan.
@@tbobmann229 I would go with a ats or banks turbo with a waste gate. The factory turbo is fine with a different exhaust outlet and down pipe. Max fuel out and adjust waste gate to 12-13psi of boost and it will run with a 2003 7.3 powerstroke. Get a pyrometer keep her under 1200.
Do you have a good way to know if your timing gear is set right without removing the whole front cover? Just the timing gear cover. Did a fresh rebuild and put the timing gear in backwards like a dumbass so I switched it to the right way and I think it may be off a tooth. Got it running today and it sounded like a cammed 350
@@braydenm5790 the small cover will let you see alignment from cam to injection pump but for crank to cam I think you will have to take the whole front off.
Thanks! I pulled the cover and retimed it. Got a question with the fuel pump 5/32 screw. I’m guessing you mean to tighten it since you said for a turbo “go all the way”?
@braydenm5790 correct. On a non turbo I wouldn't go more than 1.5 flats of a Allen key. On a turbo motor I would go to it stops could be around 3-5 flats of a Allen key but once it stops don't go further or you will strip the screw.
@@wildrosegarage4208hey wildrose. You think you could do a video of the alternator/voltage regulator wiring on a 6.9 idi? Seems like every single bullnose harness has been chopped to bits barely functioning but mine doesn’t at all. My regulator is never shutting off. Got a good diagram and am figuring it out but if you got the harness exposed already a picture/video could save a lot of us a huge headache. If you can’t no worries brother appreciate your time. Have a good one.
@braydenm5790 some new regulators are junk and won't stop charging, There is a guy on here that has a great video on putting a new 7.3 idi alternator on a bullnose. It's a blizzard out today but I can get you some pictures soon. I will find the swap video and let you know. That's the way to go in my opinion.
I'm not sure if the 5/32nds Allen screw messed with the timing, but it sounds like a miss, and now the crankcase neck is having a blow by which it never had before
@@jasonjones-ww5mb have to keep your eyes on eBay. Have not been made for years. The Powerpack kit came with a y pipe and 3" exhaust. The instructions said how much to turn up the pump for it.
@@wildrosegarage4208 the main issue I have is the cam bank angle. It’s a 65 block and I know they have the 45 degree angle. I’m hoping to make around 500-600hp with this engine. I saw you wrote some reviews for cams on summit but I’m scared to buy one that won’t fit
@@dath556 Howards cams will grind you a cam on a 45 no problem Part# HRS-579991. To be honest 500hp will be hard to make never mind 600hp. 425-450hp is doable with your ''A" heads. If you're keeping stock rockers use the howards rattler grind with .501lift and put a little stiffer single valve spring on it. If you plan on running pump gas 10.5:1 is really pushing it with cast heads. If you need more power hit it with a 150shot and you will have your 600hp. I would recommend rod bolts for sure and main bolts would not be a bad idea at that power. My 488 Olds stroker probably only makes 475hp-500hp. And make sure your 425 is at 45 degree. Some are at 39 I am told and use a bigger dia lifter.
@@wildrosegarage4208 well I got a 89 f350 single cab dually with 53k original miles and Im not towing with it but I do want little extra power and smoke it's just a truck for going to work and back and so thanks for the information
@@Baconcomix 1 flat should wake it up a bit, It will haze out the pipe pretty good with your foot into it. A perforated core muffler helps them out a bit to. My buddy had a 91 7.3 with low miles, It had the wick on the pump turned up a bunch 3" y pipe with 3" all the way back, k+n filter, hypermax cowl intake and it did good for what it was. It had 37" tires and he would pull a heavy Larson boat with a 9' camper in the box at 75mph easy. On some hills he would have to ease off because the pyrometer would kiss 1200egt. It was e40d truck and he had a shift improver called a banks trans command on it. Personally I would do a transgo tugger kit instead. A turned up n/a idi like that makes everybit as much power as a completely stock turbo model 7.3idi.Stock tuned 7.3 idi are not much better they just smoke less. Adjust the waste gate to 13psi and turn the pump up all the way and they really wake up. They make about the same power as a 99-03 7.3 super duty power stroke tuned like that.
Hey buddy I got a stock 92 1 owner f250 XLT 4x4 stock 7.3 idi with 480000 on her. What can I do to get a little more power. Cheap and simple. O it has a 5 speed manual
These are not hot rod motors but there is a couple places now that make a lot of performance parts for them and there making big power. I like them because they're very reliable, tough as anything, easy and cheap to fix. They are much better on fuel than big blocks of the time and work great for a truck that gets used for work. They pull good for what they are and can be wide open at redline all day and night and wont complain. My 93.5 ran 16.4 1/4 mile on a g tech on 35'' tires with a 5spd which was good for a diesel of its type at the time. They powered tons of school busses, International S series mediom dutys trucks and Ford E and F series.
@@wildrosegarage4208 Diesel fuel was never popular in the U.S. except for trucks. Some old Mercedes and VW cars used Diesel. Oldsmobile Failed with Diesel engines.
@@markg7030 True. Now get this these old idi's run the same on atf, hydraulic oil, used motor oil as they do on diesel. If I could find free used atf or hydraulic oil I would be set. Maybe run in through a cheese cloth type filter and let the fuel filter do the rest and just change them often.
@@wildrosegarage4208 That’s pretty cool! I am not a diesel guy but that’s cool that you can run it on old oil. Didn’t to Square body Military Chevys from the 80’s with the Detroit Diesel also run on oil and stuff like that because they required by the military?
@@MrWill73 Any old mechanical diesel will run just fine on oil as long as its not to cold and doesn't get thick. So 6.2, mechanical 6.5, 6.9/7.3idi, 12 valve cummins. I got a bunch of hydraulic oil and compressor oil free and I put it in my 7.3 powerstroke and it was at least 80% oil 20% diesel and even it ran fine didn't notice any difference. I think it idled quieter.
I have played with them to. They have there dowl pin issue that If not fixed can be a major. The first gen rotary pump ones turned up all the way are nothing to write home about. The P-pump can be turned up pretty good though. Honestly I have always liked the idi probably a lot is because of the sound they make. But if I had a Gasser ford I planned on keeping and using I would probably do a turned up 4bt. Close 2nd would be a Perkins 354. If I had more gears a Detroit 353t would be a option.
![My Go To Mods For IDI Diesel Fords [Turbos, ZF5 Trans Swap]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Gcr2-WiCmdA/mqdefault.jpg)
Really cool to see people still making videos of these. My dad bought an 85 back in '06. Then a 7.3 when i was in highschool. I own 4 of idi's😆. I don't know why but every 6.9 I've owned has started leaking coolant or oil out of the back left corner of the driver side head. Assuming the head gasket. I was also told by and old ford tec there was a recall on the 6.9s for head gaskets and ford was relpacing head gaskets under warranty back in the day. If anyone could confirm I've only heard rumors. Absolutely love these engines they're the reason on the diesel tech today. Currently working on building out a factory turbo 7.3 in a 4 door obs with zf5 and dana 60 shoooting for 300hp
@@redneckcrazy7993 you are right. They had poor head gaskets and 7/16 head bolts. The leak is external and doesn't really hurt anything just weeps a bit.
It's hard to sift through all the garbage people say about these old diesels and actually know if you're helping or hurting when you put it to practice. I'll be taking your experiential knowledge to heart and backing my metering screw back down from the 2.5 flats I was told to put it at 🙄 Thanks for all the great advice Nolan! 🤘
Ya man if its a non turbo 1.5 flats is good there is nothing to gain at all after that other than smoke. A non turbo can only breath in so much air so you can add all the fuel in the world and it wont do nothing other than make smoke and heat. When your truck is wide open it should have a good grey haze out the pipe not pouring black soot. If it has a white/grey smoke all the time it usually needs more timing advance. Hit me up for any question and I will tell you my thoughts. Let me know how it works.
Nolan.
Great Video Nolan! Good Job! Great information!
It may be frowned apon but I’ve got mine cranked all the way with about 18 psi of boost with some added timing on an 85 6.9 and no head studs or headgasket issues for about the last 16 years she loves it and is still more reliable than most of my buddies newer trucks with the highest egts I’ve ever seen was about 1000 f. Great video keep up the good work!! Ps mine is intercooled with 4inch straight pipe.
@@PAPAwheelie568 like they say 'I have seen them hold with more and blow with less'. That's a awesome man. Best upgrade on my old 7.3 was a snow performance water meth kit. I sprayed 650ml per min on progressive controller, spray started at 4 psi and max sprayed at 8psi. Even with straight water it gave it some power and kept the egt's down. I would recommend a big water tank in the box. Helped fuel mileage a lot when pulling to. On a 50/50 mix of water and methanol it gave it a huge power boost for playing around but that gets expensive.
@ hell yea that’s awsome great video and thank you for replying to me!!!!
Finally! Another Canadian brother posting an actual video on a vehicle! Great job bud! Had 3 of these trucks myself, doing the same videos on my Mustang! Cheers!
Great video Nolan! Tons of great honest information from experience, the best!👍👍👍
Nice truck Nolan
Thank you for the Wonderful Info!
@@ProducersGroupProd If I can help you out don't be scared to ask.
Excellent video. Very knowledge
Thank you.
Hello, i just baught a 1994 f250 7.3 idi turbo. It starts hard in the mornings, and smokes until it warms up then all the white smoke goes away. I’m looking into changing the glow plugs, valve, cover gasket, injectors, and then just a regular maintenance oil change and fuel filter. Do you have any recommendations on what else I can do to get the most out of it. Has 202k. I’ve always wanted to own an OBS Ford and was just now after many years able to get one. I also want to turn it up like you recommended, and to adjust the timing. I just don’t know exactly how to do it because there’s not videos out there that explain things the way you do, if you’re able to help that would mean the world. Thank you very much. Love your videos
@@BucerzanBudgetBuilds I would install new motor craft gloplugs and make sure there is no leaks on fuel return lines. If it still smokes you could try advancing the timing a dimes width but rotating the injection pump to the passenger side.
The volume is still the same wether its flatten out like they are or not. That down pipe will flow better becouse its going to hold heat better and hotter it is the better flow it will have plus u dont have to hack up the firewall
@@Jasonbrady-z9wNo. The factory turbo outlet and down pipe is a complete pile or junk. Flows horrible, egts go through the roof.
My truck is n/a 6.9 would you recommend turning out the torque screw all the way and turning the curve screw all the way in. If i did that would i need to turn it up 1.5 flats? Or is all that just for turbo units
@@jasonjones-ww5mb I would just turn up the fuel screw 1.5 flats. If it has a torque screw you could back it out but only 92 up 7.3idi have the torque screw.
@ reman pump it has the torque screw. It has a weird almost like a power band takes off when you get to 2500 rpms like more power 2500+. Makes a noticeable tone change like a nice moan to the air cleaner. Good for running 70+ dont have to hold the pedle so hard. thought mabe these screws could move the noticeable jump in power down to lower rpms. Smooth it out to have more power from idle to wide open. the torque screw was all the way in and the other with jam nut was all the way out truck runs very well other than that little oddity
Thanks for the tips! I have an '85 E350 motorhome with a 6.9, only 130k km on it, runs great! For a pyro on a 6.9, what would you be looking for as a max EGT and a comfortable sustained EGT?
1200 max for short period 1100 all day is my thoughts.
I would make sure it has a clean air filter or a K+n replacement that's well oiled. Make sure the ducting is proper or maybe there is a way to get more air into the ducting? Under bumper? Trim tin where it sucks from by the radiator perhaps? 3" exhaust helps with a nice Y pipe a straight through style muffler perforated core style. All this will help temps. That's a great unit they didn't make many with a idi most were 351w or 460 at that time.
Cool truck
How does the air filter housing come off? I have the identical one on my 1985 Ford idi.
@@Ironparadise72 unscrew the wing nut in the center.
@@wildrosegarage4208I understand how to take the lid off. The surround of the filter housing seems to be locked on.
I would like to take it off to get to the glow plugs and the injectors.
I have looked at multiple videos but no one shows how to take the surround housing off.Thanks
@@Ironparadise72 you unscrew the wing nut and pull it off.
Are there any ways to manipulate the pump to start good that has a hot start issue to get a few more miles out of it ?
@@bw2989 you could try advancing the timing, and fill the fuel filter fuel of diesel cleaner and ATF. Run it for a minute. Let it sit for a day and run it hard. But if the pump is worn it's worn.
@@wildrosegarage4208 thank you, Ive done that and turned the tpp in one turn, the advance piston bore is smooth and no corrosion when I resealed the pump.
@@bw2989 I think hot start issue is to much clearance in the rotar head.
@@wildrosegarage4208 thank you!
Nice Truck Brotha!
Thank you.
moved my engine ahead approx.1 3/8" ahead 3" down pipe clears no problem watch the clearance fan to rad
@@stevesmith669 I had a 3" down pipe and turbo outlet on my 94. The turbo outlet allowed the use of a down pipe made for a 7.3 power stroke. It fit tight but fit. Went to 4" obs power stroke exhaust kit after the down pipe. Best of luck with your truck.
I have a turbo 7.3 idi.
I turned the fuel all the way up, and barely noticed much difference in power.
The real negative is that it belches tons of smoke after 1/4 throttle, i kept an an eye on the rear view mirror to see how much smoke was coming out and metered my throttle accordingly.
I let a family member drive it and he was unknowingly smoking people out just driving it how he normally would.
This was a problem because in my jurisdiction my truck could be reported to the county, i have since dialed back the fuel.
Overall not worth it.
Did you adjust the waste gate to 13psi? If not it is not getting enough air for the amount of fuel. Smoke should clean up once high boost is achieved. By turning up the fuel all the way and adjusting the waste gate it will make 50% more over stock. Do you have the airbox hose hooked up so it's not sucking hot air from under the hood? If it's a 5 SPD truck it will smoke when lugging do to not enough rpm to lite the turbo. A auto truck will only smoke lots off the start and before a downshift. Not enough timing can also make smoke. With the pump turned up and the turbo set to 13psi with good exhaust and air a factory turbo Idi will make the same power as 99-03 7.3 superdutys like my daily. I hope you have a pyrometer. With the junk ford down pipe and turbo outlet the egts go through the roof. Let me know how it goes.
Overall, lots of good info, you nailed a lot of it.
In terms of the pump though, you're off a little bit. The "torque screw" is a low end fueling gimmick, not high end. It simply limits metering valve travel, so that fueling under high demand/low RPM is less. As RPM rises, so does transfer pressure, and that overcomes the travel restriction... The reason they are backed out from the factory on the turbo units is because the turbo benefits from the extra low end fueling and cleans the excess up pretty quick, particularly because the factory turbo calibration is pretty light anyway.
The other pump adjustment isn't a fuel curve mod. Its a fine adjustment for the defuel spec on the top end. Running it in only gives you a little extra RPM on top. The governor in these pumps is a min/max unit, and all it does is regulate idle, and defuel... The rest of the curve is determined by other adjustments in the pump, and throttle input (your right foot), that's all.
Your DPS pump was nothing but a turned up 7.3 stocker, and in stock form a 7.3 pump does right around 90-95cc at peak fuel.
I know your a idi king and have been a leader in them for a long time. So I am not doubting what you know but I will say this. In my Hypermax Turbo instructions I still have somewhere it states the screw is a high rpm fuel decrease and to back it out to stop high rpm de fuel and I can say on my 93 from years ago ( 5speed factory turbo truck with a hypermax non waste gate turbo) with a factory pump at high rpm around 2800rpm it would drop around 2 psi of boost pressure (From 13psi-11psi). I backed that screw out all the way and it would not drop boost until the fuel cut right off at around 3000rpm. I am not makeing this up it did give me more fueling for a couple more 100 rpm. I had 2x factory 5 speed turbo pumps and both were like this. I just looked at the old hypermax instructions and it states to back the screw out 3 turns if fuel decreases at to low of engine speed if boost pressure drops this adjustment may be desired on 92.5 + models. I had a factory turbo auto truck (94) fuel would be full until 3300. I backed the screw out on that truck but I would be lying if I said it kept full fuel until 3300 because I never tested it first I went by the hypermax instructions and from my experience on my other truck. On the 93 I ended running a dps custom 120cc ( Ken from dps claimed) pump and stage 1 dps injectors, also sprayed a 650ml/min snowperformance water meth kit. That truck went pretty good and would say it made around the same power as my 03 7.3 powerstroke on my hottest tune it ran 16.4 @85mph on 35s. That pump was hotter than a turned up factory turbo pump for sure. Thank you for letting me know what the screw on on the back does and explaining it. Thanks for watching my stuff and keep doing what you do for these trucks.
Nolan.
@@wildrosegarage4208good stuff!.. looking to turbo my non turbo idi..so many options.. just looking to avoid the trial and errors $$$..lol thanks!
@@tbobmann229 I would go with a ats or banks turbo with a waste gate. The factory turbo is fine with a different exhaust outlet and down pipe. Max fuel out and adjust waste gate to 12-13psi of boost and it will run with a 2003 7.3 powerstroke. Get a pyrometer keep her under 1200.
Do you have a good way to know if your timing gear is set right without removing the whole front cover? Just the timing gear cover. Did a fresh rebuild and put the timing gear in backwards like a dumbass so I switched it to the right way and I think it may be off a tooth. Got it running today and it sounded like a cammed 350
@@braydenm5790 the small cover will let you see alignment from cam to injection pump but for crank to cam I think you will have to take the whole front off.
Thanks! I pulled the cover and retimed it. Got a question with the fuel pump 5/32 screw. I’m guessing you mean to tighten it since you said for a turbo “go all the way”?
@braydenm5790 correct. On a non turbo I wouldn't go more than 1.5 flats of a Allen key. On a turbo motor I would go to it stops could be around 3-5 flats of a Allen key but once it stops don't go further or you will strip the screw.
@@wildrosegarage4208hey wildrose. You think you could do a video of the alternator/voltage regulator wiring on a 6.9 idi? Seems like every single bullnose harness has been chopped to bits barely functioning but mine doesn’t at all. My regulator is never shutting off. Got a good diagram and am figuring it out but if you got the harness exposed already a picture/video could save a lot of us a huge headache.
If you can’t no worries brother appreciate your time. Have a good one.
@braydenm5790 some new regulators are junk and won't stop charging, There is a guy on here that has a great video on putting a new 7.3 idi alternator on a bullnose. It's a blizzard out today but I can get you some pictures soon. I will find the swap video and let you know. That's the way to go in my opinion.
I turned the fuel screw 1 flat now the engine sounds like its knocking
@@josephteyhen1156 turning your fuel up is not going to cause your engine to knock.
@@josephteyhen1156 could of got some air in the lines that will make it run rough. It will work its way through.
Anyway I could send you a video of the motor sound maybe email or something
I'm not sure if the 5/32nds Allen screw messed with the timing, but it sounds like a miss, and now the crankcase neck is having a blow by which it never had before
Where can i find that air cleaner or the banks power pack
@@jasonjones-ww5mb have to keep your eyes on eBay. Have not been made for years. The Powerpack kit came with a y pipe and 3" exhaust. The instructions said how much to turn up the pump for it.
@ thanks!great info im keep looking
Ive watched this over and over. Need a little advice on my 6.9. Would you be willing to take my call about it. How do I reach you.
@@brandoncarleton3703 what's the issues. I could put my email on here and go from there I guess.
Yep really great video good info! What Provence ?
@@kurtiskoppdrums Alberta
Hello. I’m building a 425 for my Oldsmobile. Where do you recommend looking for parts?
Depends on what you need and what your doing. Let me know what kind of power your looking for and I will give you my thoughts.
Nolan.
@@wildrosegarage4208 the main issue I have is the cam bank angle. It’s a 65 block and I know they have the 45 degree angle. I’m hoping to make around 500-600hp with this engine. I saw you wrote some reviews for cams on summit but I’m scared to buy one that won’t fit
@@dath556 Howards cams will grind you a cam on a 45 no problem Part# HRS-579991. To be honest 500hp will be hard to make never mind 600hp. 425-450hp is doable with your ''A" heads. If you're keeping stock rockers use the howards rattler grind with .501lift and put a little stiffer single valve spring on it. If you plan on running pump gas 10.5:1 is really pushing it with cast heads. If you need more power hit it with a 150shot and you will have your 600hp. I would recommend rod bolts for sure and main bolts would not be a bad idea at that power. My 488 Olds stroker probably only makes 475hp-500hp. And make sure your 425 is at 45 degree. Some are at 39 I am told and use a bigger dia lifter.
@@wildrosegarage4208 thank you so much. That’s super helpful. Are you in alberta? I’ll let you know if I have any other questions through the build 👍
@@dath556 No problem sounds good. Yes I am in Edmonton Alberta.
Is it safe if i turn up my fuel Half a flat or 1 flat? On a 7.3 non turbo
@@Baconcomix personally I would recommend a pyrometer if your going to turn it up.
@wildrosegarage4208 ok
@Baconcomix even stock with a heavy load a pyrometer is a good idea. If your not pulling you will probably be okay without one even turned up 1 flat.
@@wildrosegarage4208 well I got a 89 f350 single cab dually with 53k original miles and Im not towing with it but I do want little extra power and smoke it's just a truck for going to work and back and so thanks for the information
@@Baconcomix 1 flat should wake it up a bit, It will haze out the pipe pretty good with your foot into it. A perforated core muffler helps them out a bit to. My buddy had a 91 7.3 with low miles, It had the wick on the pump turned up a bunch 3" y pipe with 3" all the way back, k+n filter, hypermax cowl intake and it did good for what it was. It had 37" tires and he would pull a heavy Larson boat with a 9' camper in the box at 75mph easy. On some hills he would have to ease off because the pyrometer would kiss 1200egt. It was e40d truck and he had a shift improver called a banks trans command on it. Personally I would do a transgo tugger kit instead. A turned up n/a idi like that makes everybit as much power as a completely stock turbo model 7.3idi.Stock tuned 7.3 idi are not much better they just smoke less. Adjust the waste gate to 13psi and turn the pump up all the way and they really wake up. They make about the same power as a 99-03 7.3 super duty power stroke tuned like that.
Hey buddy I got a stock 92 1 owner f250 XLT 4x4 stock 7.3 idi with 480000 on her. What can I do to get a little more power. Cheap and simple. O it has a 5 speed manual
Turn the pump up a flat, bump the timing a dimes width to the passenger side, and put on a free flowing muffler.
Thanks for the info
I agree with whatever you said. I don't know shit about diesel.🙃🙃🙃
These are not hot rod motors but there is a couple places now that make a lot of performance parts for them and there making big power. I like them because they're very reliable, tough as anything, easy and cheap to fix. They are much better on fuel than big blocks of the time and work great for a truck that gets used for work. They pull good for what they are and can be wide open at redline all day and night and wont complain. My 93.5 ran 16.4 1/4 mile on a g tech on 35'' tires with a 5spd which was good for a diesel of its type at the time. They powered tons of school busses, International S series mediom dutys trucks and Ford E and F series.
@@wildrosegarage4208 Diesel fuel was never popular in the U.S. except for trucks. Some old Mercedes and VW cars used Diesel. Oldsmobile Failed with Diesel engines.
@@markg7030 True. Now get this these old idi's run the same on atf, hydraulic oil, used motor oil as they do on diesel. If I could find free used atf or hydraulic oil I would be set. Maybe run in through a cheese cloth type filter and let the fuel filter do the rest and just change them often.
@@wildrosegarage4208 That’s pretty cool! I am not a diesel guy but that’s cool that you can run it on old oil. Didn’t to Square body Military Chevys from the 80’s with the Detroit Diesel also run on oil and stuff like that because they required by the military?
@@MrWill73 Any old mechanical diesel will run just fine on oil as long as its not to cold and doesn't get thick. So 6.2, mechanical 6.5, 6.9/7.3idi, 12 valve cummins. I got a bunch of hydraulic oil and compressor oil free and I put it in my 7.3 powerstroke and it was at least 80% oil 20% diesel and even it ran fine didn't notice any difference. I think it idled quieter.
Best way,to get power out of an idi is to throw the 12v tune in it lol
I have played with them to. They have there dowl pin issue that If not fixed can be a major. The first gen rotary pump ones turned up all the way are nothing to write home about. The P-pump can be turned up pretty good though. Honestly I have always liked the idi probably a lot is because of the sound they make. But if I had a Gasser ford I planned on keeping and using I would probably do a turned up 4bt. Close 2nd would be a Perkins 354. If I had more gears a Detroit 353t would be a option.
You have a email?
@@kjkj863 what can I help you with?
@wildrosegarage4208 6.9 idi turbo questions. Too much to type in comment sections
Got it thanks